/ General Training Help

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webbie88 - on 17 Mar 2013
Good evening folks,

I am currently training for my first season outdoor climbing and also for a 10day expedition in America and i am struggling with how to get the balance to get the best out of both. I wont lie I dont have a clue about fitness stuff and I have never tried to create a plan to structure my training.

At present I can really only train Monday, tuesday, wednesday, thursday and sundays due to prearranged activities so it does narrow it down for me. I also work around 40miles from work so can cycle/walk as part of my commute at present and I am climbing round grade 5s with out much trouble apart from hand/grip strength.

The rough plan I have in my head is:

Monday - 30 Bouldering problems (font 3-5)
- 5 Bouldering problems (font 5-6a)

Tuesday - 30 Bouldering problems (font 3-5)
- 5miles inclined walk on treadmill
- 30min on bike

Wednesday - Endurance wall (15o, font 6a, 5 attempts)
- Climbing Club Night work on harder problems as can gain help and advice

Thursday - Circuit Training
- 3 sets of 12reps to build shoulder and arm strength with 5min hard sessions on bike
to split up exercise.

On free weekend I will climb a munro/corbett with friends.

So how does this plan look? any amendments or adjustments? The plan is to try it for 4-6weeks then advance as required



Keendan - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to webbie88:

Hi Jonny. Good to see you're psyched to train.

What are you planning for your climbing outside - bouldering? routes? both?
What does your circuit training involve?

Here are my thoughts that spring to mind:

Your skin and forearms will be the limiting factor for Mon to Wed, so better to spread them over your training days. Eg Sun, Tue, Thur if you can.

I would avoid structuring your bouldering for now. Just work some problems, and try hard all the time. Think about how you can learn something from all the problems you try. Don't worry about getting 30 done in a session.

Structured endurance work will give you good gains, but again I think it would be better to just climb some routes (if you have access to a roped wall). There is much more to route climbing than endurance, and you will improve by climbing routes. You are likely to improve endurance simply by doing this. Most people who start out climbing go home with burning forearms every time they climb - isn't that training enough. Endurance training is perfectly valid though IMO.

Try hard all the time, and try to avoid injury. Enjoy!
Phill Mitch - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to webbie88:That's loads to start with. Are you training for a summer of bouldering?
The best thing you can do is get out and do it as much as you can. you will find your strengths and weaknesses, then work on those.
Big Z on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to webbie88:

Hi Jonny,

I dont know what your level of fitness is at the moment but Tough Mudder offer some great circuit ideas. Tough Mudder is an obstacle course event held in the Uk and America and you have to be seriously fit and strong (both power and endurance) to finish it so i'm sure there training circuits will help you.


webbie88 - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to webbie88:

I am meeting with a trainer at the gym to organise what circuits I would be best to do.

Unfortunately due to the travelling & work commitments I can really only bouldrr during the week as I dont have anyone to route climb with but when the better weather comes I hope to get out as mucj as i can to do all types of climbing

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