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Gym specific exercises for climbers

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Hi there everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone had any links to or recommendations for specific exercises to do in a normal gym for climbers?

I go twice a week on top of my normal climbing and tend to work back and shoulders however other than let's say pull-ups on my back day I'm struggling to find exercises that will directly benefit my climbing. I wondered if anyone could recommend any good exercises I could include which are directly good for climbing and for building some muscle?

Cheers in advance!

 Iamgregp 19 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Maybe an antagonist workout?  Not sure you need to build muscle as much as maintain muscle balance?

 Šljiva 19 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Work on your core strength... 

 CantClimbTom 19 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

The Australian Pull up (aka Bodyweight row). But as you improve don't just endlessly add reps. Instead gradually increase the loading by progressing the difficulty. See this tutorial youtube.com/watch?v=sJe5xLbxaxg&

I'm sure this has the most direct carry over to climbing, probably more so than normal pull-ups

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Wow, thank you so much this is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for!

 Iamgregp 21 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

If that's what you're after look up Frenchie pull ups... 

 UKB Shark 21 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Deadlifts

 Moonbeam 21 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Back/biceps:

Sounds like you've got your back covered. I also do T's. Y's, and I's flys using a trx set up... I also use it for rows. With free weights you can do single arm rows, too. You can also use a longer bar to work the military press/overhead press. This can be surprisingly useful for stemming/corner moves on the wall!

I tend to incorporate bicep training with my back/shoulder workout. Curls or hammergrip curls have been really effective for me when rehabing and prehabing bicep tendonopothy. Sometimes I get a bit of pain where my bicep meets my forearm if I have been pulling really hard and this really helps to flush that out.

Trunk/core:

Check out this high intensity core workout for climbing:
youtube.com/watch?v=4HLus_WlY8g&

It's nails! Really great for working your core muscles. Good for steep climbing on overhangs and system boards. I find the classic planks, sit ups, crunches, leg raises leave a bit to be desired and are more endurance focussed than high intensity. This workout takes 5-10 minutes and got me holding a front lever!

Chest/Tri:

Push ups/bench press/flies are great for working your "pushing" muscle groups. This is really important as climbing is so "pulling"-centric. Some dips on a bench are good also. People forget to work their push skills and then come greasing off of mantle problems! You can even stick a plate on your back to make the push ups harder if you don't have a bench bar.

Legs:

Don't forget legs! One legged squats are a clear climbing-related movement to work towards... Deadlifts are also a fantastic compound lift that will strengthen your legs, back, and core!

With all of these exercises I try to prioritise heavier weight at 8-12 reps, so as not to build too much bulk and extra weight. I recommend you use your discretion. There's plenty to do to give your fingers a break. Don't forget flexibility and mobility... I have been trying to deepen my box split recently as well as pushing my ability past touching my toes. 

 Morty 21 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

> I was just wondering if anyone had any links to or recommendations for specific exercises to do in a normal gym for climbers?

In a normal gym?

Loads of pull ups in comparison to the rest of the gym's clientele.  Do every variation you can find on youtube.  ALWAYS CHALK UP BEFORE EACH SET. 

One arm lock offs on the pull up bar - just because.  SEE ABOVE CHALKING GUIDANCE.

One-armers - if you can do them - if you can't then just pretend you are warming up to smash out a few and then say you have an urgent business call with a potential sponsor.  Take this imaginary call at MAXIMUM VOLUME. 

Also, include a lot of lat flexing in front of the mirror - go for the Franco Columbu bat look, but with tiny legs of string.  Follow up with some forearm adoration - put the vein in vain by doing wrist curls - you will be the only person in the gym to have ever bothered with them.  ALWAYS WEAR A VEST.  

Avoid doing any kind of leg work.  In fact, have your legs plastered and rendered immobile so that your leg muscles atrophy and you can increase your power to weight ratio. 

As you are at the gym, it makes sense to buy your supplements there.  Don't bother with Holland and Barrett, see Big Phil in the squat rack - he will be able to sort you out with some really good supplementation.  However, there is the chance that your nipples may start to resemble the teats of a female Labrador who has just became the unlucky mum to eight hungry pups.  

It's probably also worth hooking up with their physio for a regular session to address the serious issues you end up with from over-training your back, arms and shoulders - you don't want to be one of those twitching hunchbacks at the wall who haven't been able to stand up straight since before they installed a woody in their garage / spare room / cellar etc. 

Hope this helps...

 UKB Shark 22 Apr 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

> Maybe an antagonist workout?  Not sure you need to build muscle as much as maintain muscle balance?

How does that work then? 

 Iamgregp 22 Apr 2021
In reply to UKB Shark:

I mean you could just google that!

Joking aside though, I'm a big believer in antagonist workouts.  Maybe it's because I'm a sickly child and a bit injury prone.... 

I'm pretty sure you know all about this already, but for the benefit of others who may be reading the thread this is a nice article https://www.climbing.com/skills/antagonist-workouts-for-climbers-improve-pe...

 Qwerty2019 22 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

What you are basically asking is what exercise you can do ANYTIME away from the wall.  It doesnt just have to be at the gym does it?  During lockdown climbers have had to think outside the box a little to create climbing based exercises to try to maintain or even improve their physical condition in the hope they dont lose it.

I would suggest you have a look at people like Neil Gresham on instagram.  He did loads of hit circuits, exercise routines etc to maintain fitness, improve core and flexibility.  To be honest we made huge use of all the insta pages to compliment our system board as our only climbing source.

Hit circuits, core circuits, pull up variations (1 arm assisted), frenchies, lower offs, finger board, foot drills, squats, pistol squats, pistol squats on balance boards, weighted squats, heel & toe lifts. Crikey, we did full sessions just using a flight of stairs and varying how we went up and down them.  my daughter could hardly walk after that session.  We found a nice little routine on the Kyra Kondie page where she took you through some windscreen wipers, front lever progressions into pull ups then some basic core routines.

Too maintain morale during lockdown my daughter did a daily madfit instagram session with one of her pals online.  That alone was enough to maintain a level of fitness and improvement in flexibility.  I challenge you to do a session every day and not feel the benefits.

Honestly, instagram has been absolutely rammed with info over lockdown.  Some good, some bad.  If you concentrate purely on strength of your arms and shoulders you will be missing at least 50% of what you are capable of

Post edited at 15:28
 CantClimbTom 22 Apr 2021
In reply to UKB Shark:

> Deadlifts

I truly love deadlifts (and also overhead strict-press and squats) they make you strong/robust. I think more people should do them. But personally, I'm not convinced they help rock climbing very much, mountaineering.. yes.

 UKB Shark 22 Apr 2021
In reply to CantClimbTom:

They help by providing the strength for stability and tension pressing out on your feet for example when standing up on undercuts and for manoeuvring yourself and applying force through your feet (or just maintaining contact) on overhanging rock. Law of diminishing returns though. If you can lift 2x bodyweight then it would be better to seek gains elsewhere. 

 plyometrics 22 Apr 2021
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Can’t go wrong with heavy plate grips... 

In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Here are a few good exercise options that would have great transfer to climbing:

-Goblet static Side Lunge: this would build strength and flexibility in your inner thigh muscles, helping you do those wide step or transitions in climbing.

-TRX T raise or Y raise: In climbing you'll have a lot of application of force in between walls or holds. These are great full body exercise variations that train your shoulder complex to be able to maintain that force through a movement.

-Calf raises/one leg calf raises: Using the smearing technique or any hold with your foot in that position will place a lot of stress on the foot and calf. Doing slow tempo calf raises will condition your feet to handle this stress. Usually these are done from a mid foot position but you can also use a ball of foot position for a few sets to challenge the muscles and tendons.

I'm a Strength & Conditioning coach with a focus on mountaineering but will also do some videos on conditioning for climbing soon since it's an integral part of mountaineering.

I did a video on the fundamental movement patterns a few months back. This is something that everyone should train regardless of their background, so it's worth applying it to your training too. 

youtube.com/watch?v=Oys50XzjZe8&

Hope this helps!


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