/ Hip Strength Exercises?

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BrightEyes 04 Oct 2019

Hello!

Any tips on hip strengthening suited for climbing training?

Quick background: I've come off a fairly nifty injury (busted hamstring and hip flexor(s), both the same side) from the beginning of the year from a non-climbing incident. Now I've reached the point where neither hurt unless they are over-taxed (or sustain multiple bouldering falling-body-slams...*ehem*) and are adjusting (slowly) to increasing intensity in exercises. I cannot really do heavily weighted dead-lifting or barbell squats yet (will get there eventually), but I've been able to sort of train single legged squats (unintentionally and miraculously) by going hands free on easy routes on slabs though.

The loss in strength from the injury and no "leg day" in 9-10ish months has meant I'm back to square one for certain climbing moves and serious overhangs and I really need to get back to training this.

Tips will be appreciated and understood that you are not a physio.  

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Shani 04 Oct 2019
In reply to BrightEyes:

Planks, hip-thrusts, glute bridge.

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dr_botnik 06 Oct 2019
In reply to BrightEyes:

Get one of those loops of theraband type stuff and put it around your ankles then walk side to side. Or put it slightly higher (above the knee) and do squats. Then keep it there and do clams (lie on your side with slightly bent legs and raise your knee) or leg lifts.

Avoid doing any of that foam roller stuff on the sides, I found this to make my knee problems worse (I had knee issues from running that started because of weak hips and all the above stuff really helped)

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BrightEyes 06 Oct 2019
In reply to dr_botnik and Shani:

Thank you both, that really helps. I have those bands that you can tie so I'll incorporate that in and I'll look up the variations for the other suggested exercises too.

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