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Home wall in garage - advice please!

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 Whitey13 24 Aug 2018

Been thinking of putting a small bouldering wall in the back of my garage.  Space is 8ft wide and 9ft high.  Will be overhanging 20ish degrees.   Despite measuring out the equivalent space at my local wall to get a feel of how big it will be, i still cannot decide if it'll be big enough to get benefit out of it. 

Any thoughts?!

 stonejumper 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Whitey13:

Pm me your email address i can send you a few pics of mine which is a simliar size and in my garage. Mines 2.4m wide x 30° x 3m tall. Its ok but would of liked a bit taller.

Post edited at 07:06
 Rob Laird 25 Aug 2018
In reply to Whitey13:

You’ve got more space than me!

My garage is about 2.5m wide and about 2.5m high. I’ve put the wall at 45 degrees, and if I’m really doing big moves, I can do 2 moves from the bottom to top...

However they’re not all like that, and I’ve found I set problems that are 5-8 moves long, generally a few moves traversing, then up to the top.

It’s not perfect, but being 10 seconds from my back door means I’m more likely to train on days where I can’t be bothered with the 30 minute drive to the nearest wall, or when I’ve only got an hour or so free to train.

Rob

 misterb 26 Aug 2018
In reply to Rob Laird:

It's more than big enough, just make it 30 degrees and then put small holds all over it, screw ons only will save you a fortune in holds and time not drilling and t-nutting

If you really want to train some sort of stamina or endurance then smack a few larger resting holds on and then link boulder problems in and out of the rests

 mal_meech 26 Aug 2018
In reply to misterb:

> If you really want to train some sort of stamina or endurance then smack a few larger resting holds on and then link boulder problems in and out of the rests

Larger holds are also useful for warming up... its very easy to tweak yourself on a home wall squeezing in a quick session when you only have crimps on a 30deg wall...

 Alun 26 Aug 2018
In reply to Whitey13:

I have just such a wall in my garage. 30 deg overhanging. It got used for a while, mostly for doing circuits, as doing actual boulder problems is pretty impossible. Unfortunately now it is gathering dust - while my fingerboard gets used almost every day.

So in my experience, such a small wall is not worth the time, effort and money of constructing. I plan to move house next year and I would not rebuild the same wall. In fact, I'll not build any wall, instead I'll build a hangboard with a selection of quality wooden holds.

OP Whitey13 29 Aug 2018

Thanks everyone! Much appreciated. Given me some good advice and ideas. Thanks again

 

 jkarran 29 Aug 2018
In reply to Whitey13:

> Despite measuring out the equivalent space at my local wall to get a feel of how big it will be, i still cannot decide if it'll be big enough to get benefit out of it. Any thoughts?!

It's plenty big enough if you use it creatively, even more so if you make it adjustable so it's multiple walls in one. The simplest option being a single hinge line near the floor but with two or three hinge lines you can set a huge variety of problems into that space (slab, wall, straight overhang, stepped overhang, concave and convex overhangs). Hinge lines (piano hinge style) can add rigidity cutting required frame weight and offsetting the cost of the hinges and adjusters. A few holds on the side walls give you corners too.

jk

 paul mitchell 31 Aug 2018
In reply to jkarran:

30 degrees overhanging  with mainly crimps will probably trash fingers and elbows.Try to add in some bigger holds for stamina training,or,better,if routes are your aim,have it only 20 degrees overhanging. A couple of finger grippers at different strengths are also a good idea.


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