UKC

Indoor Bouldering Intensity

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 Jackspratt 07 Mar 2019

I've not really been doing much for the last couple of years, recently I've been getting back into the swing of things and have been trying to climb 3 x a week (1 indoor lead session, 1 indoor bouldering and 1 outdoor trad day) 

The indoor bouldering is proving very humbling for me I climb about 20 routes in a 90min session but I seem to be in and out before most people, the question is then, am I better off making it a longer less intense session or just keep pushing through the shorter intense sessions and wait for the improvement? My climbing goals are mainly trad related PB was O/S E2 5b and I want to push past that.

 tjdodd 07 Mar 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

I think it depends on what you are climbing and who you are climbing with.

If you are climbing on your own and pushing yourself then 20 problems in 90 minutes seems pretty good to me.  Ignoring warm-up problems I sometimes only get a couple of problems done if I am pushing myself (today I only got one done in 3.5 hours but then did do over 30 easy problems to warm up and then flayed around on a bunch of others whilst also climbing with someone else).

I think it is better to think about what you are doing in each session rather than necessarily the length of time.  Also worth mixing it up and potentially getting on whatever training boards are available, e.g. beastmaker.  I find doing some long sessions of lots of easy stuff but really focusing on technique and moving slowly is really good for developing.  But other times I will focus on very few problems that are really pushing me.  At the opposite extreme sometimes I will do the easy circuits as quickly as possible and then can be racking up a problem every 30-60s.

Indoor bouldering is also, in my view, very sociable, so those spending longer than you might just be making more of the social time as much as the climbing.

I'm no expert but hope that helps.


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