UKC

This is more of a moan, but I promise I ask about training.

I've gone and busted my ACL and meniscus requiring surgery asap if I want to keep the meniscus as it's quite damaged and slipped out of place. Boo hiss. And yes, it was done bouldering indoors. Yes, it was from a bad landing from a slip near the top of the route - slipped from a hand hold and went down with serious speed. No more bouldering for me!

Might be able to return to roped climbing by the end of the year. Who knows. Psychologically, I think roped climbing will be the only thing I do at first for a while. Physio will also be life for now.

I don't understand how people sit around all day watching TV? It's excruciatingly boring. At least there's a few good on-demand bits to watch and now I can sit up with my leg down so I can do more things when I'm not pottering about the place.

Anyway, how do I go about avoiding losing too much of the climbing strength? Go to a regular gym and continue upper body and good-leg work outs (adapted to sitting)? I thought I could still use free weights with assistance. Not sure about the machines.

One cool thing though - I do currently have a transformer looking leg!

Not sure about acl, but I had a meniscus repair and was climbing again a month afterwards. Pre and post op I did loads of fingerboarding, trx, core, and felt stronger than ever when I got back. Don't dwell on your injury, just focus on all the stuff you can do. And spend money on a good physio to rehab the knee after tge op 

If the grades in your profile are your current level of strength or fitness. Then you haven’t got much to lose.

A few pull ups or a bit of finger boarding every other day and you will be stronger than pre injury.

I'm currently 6 weeks out from ankle surgery after dislocating some tendons. Just starting to walk again, feeling good about it all but still feel a fair way from being able to climb, let alone boulder. But I've been making the most of it and finger boarding lots, and feeling stronger than ever. Reframe this injury and it becomes an opportunity rather than a hindrance. If you haven't trained much before the crimpd app has lots of suggestions for exercises, and unbelievably its totally free. Remember as you go its about quality not quantity. Eat well and rest lots and you'll get back to climbing stronger than you were when this happened.

You're right, I won't lose much (maybe) in terms of grades but there were other factors that made climbing harder grades (pre injury) tougher, personally.

Yup, have the full intention to find a good sports physio! I'll try not to dwell on it - it's a bit hard not to with it being fresh and all!

Damn, I hope your recovery goes well. Slowly but surely you'll get back to it!

I had the Crimpd app and thought it was great. I removed it after a while as there are some exercises I couldn't physically do. I had contacted a PT so we could work out alternatives but then this happened.

Thank you

I was pretty down about it for the first couple of weeks, but once I'd managed to reframe it as an opportunity, and once the surgery was done and I was on the mend (I was fortunate to be in France when it happened and got surgery the day after going to A and E, I was told by a doctor when I got home it would have taken months on the NHS), started feeling better about it. Pretty optimistic now. Also given me a chance to catch up on some books I wanted to read - in the past few years I've only found time to do lots of reading on expeditions, so that's been nice.

RE Crimpd yeah some of the exercises are desperate! I don't do anything like all of them. I'm just focussing on increasing my max finger and pull up strength, as those are my weaknesses coming from a mostly trad background. Also doing lots of conditioning, especially round the shoulders, which will hopefully prevent further injuries in the future! Good luck anyway. You got your op scheduled yet?

Thank you. The surgery is end of this month, in about 1.5 weeks, so just under a month from the incident. In the meantime, they've asked I work on my range of movement which is slowly improving. They wanted to do it this coming week but apparently the spaces filled up as they were going through the list!

I was actually thinking about the other things I've wanted to do but didn't have time - like learning another language or freshening up the second one I have which I've started. I'll prob end up in a world of new hobbies for a while now. 😅

I'm currently still recovering from surgery; 3 months now..It will get very boring and frustrating, prepare for that.

Think of those who will look after you, make sure you tell them that you appreciate it.

I prepared several weeks of healthy low carb meals for the freezer so my partner wouldn't have do much work in preparing them.

YouTube was my friend, I couldn't concentrate on much for any lenght. Don't watch all of the seasons of Lost..you will loose the will to live, what a pile of shit...

I had an exercise regime for my upper body and when I could I went to the swimming pool (being weightless).

I tried to keep a diary to record the exercises and meals, 

A pile of books and snacks and a kettle within reach and a pee bottle  

You have got time to plan, use that time

Good luck

P.s on-line shopping is your friend..and enemy

Thank you for all the advice.

Fortunately, I've mostly developed a provision of stuff to keep me busy that do not include suffering through Lost... I gave up on the series a long time ago 😅. I really like your idea of keeping a diary of meals and exercises. And I'll make sure to remind everyone around me that I appreciate their help.