UKC

I have just watched the "Factors Deciding Boulder Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi" (link: youtube.com/watch?v=NS7ZdBS-jW0& ) After this very interesting experience I can only question myself if "one of the best climbing couches" is trolling us? Or is it some kind of German humour? I have lived in Germany so I though I would have gotten the joke but oh, that's a whole new level for me. Just a few examples of what might make Akiyo so good:

1) "mental and physical flexibility"

1) mental flexibility: ?!? , physical flexibility: yes, thank you Captain Obvious.

2) "The Perception-Action Cycle is the circular flow of information that takes place between the organism and its environment in the course of a sensory-guided sequence of behaviour towards a goal" ("spatial awareness" "Knowledge-exploration-environment")

2) This quote was followed by videos of her "exploring" the boulder once climbing it already. Please, explain me more how you should assess the boulder moves, visualize them and try to "solve" it.

3) "Boulder problems ask for appropriate solutions, which depend entirely on the climber's capacities. They must simultaneously assess their own abilities and the demands of the problem"

3) Oh my wish from point 2 was fulfilled. He did explain it! Thank you Captain Obvious.

4) "Crossing midline"

4) That has to be the modern art of climbing terms right there.

Note that the above quotes are about 90% of all the "knowledge" shared in the video. It is not like I am picking a few odd instances...

P.S. Reading the comments below the video "great detailed analysis!?", "So Udini doesn't post many vids....but man when he does its worth it.?", etc. change my mind from believing it is a troll attempt to considering it as a "modern art". Perhaps I am stupid and just don't get it...

I had always assumed it was a cultural differences in which turns of phrase where used in unexpected ways. With Udo his materials always feel like he is trying to explain his own personal problem solving theories, but it’s written as if it’s part of a conversation with one of his athletes.

With regards to the obvious element, myself and many people on UKC have careers based on telling people the bleeding obvious. Again like Udo, most people are looking for a method or a process model to be mapped out that they can follow when presented with a challenge.

Definitely not a troll, but a lot is lost in translation.

Thank you for sharing your point of view. I would have to disagree on this rather key sentence in your reply. As far as I can understand, he is not providing any kind of problem solving theory, he is just stating that in order to climb good you need problem solving theories. That you need to be good in "crossing midlines", that you need to be flexible. No theory, methods, suggestions how to do that...

As a comparison, look at the analysis from this person https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0iiyed14XtRqxOcGgwSHDw  (Beta Routesetting). How does it happen that there is no lost in translation in this case and that one can actually LEARN something?

It all depends what you are after. If you wanted an in-depth analysis of a particular point such as flexibility then go to the specific resources. If it’s an overview of key searchable terms that surmise the overall scenario for later reference then it’s quick and to the point.

I like you thought The Very Hungry Caterpillar book depiction of nature was laudable. I mean it wasn’t even drawn to scale.

:thumbs up:

:-D

It's no troll, just the way he communicates. If you read up on his theories and observations, you'll find 'crossing midlines' is referring to crossing your own sagittal plane (aka midline) with your limbs. Eg using your RH on your LH side. This is particularly difficult to do dynamically and is a hallmark of the best comp-style boulderers.