UKC

Does anyone have any suggestions for any mental training i can do when i cant do physically do any exercise?

In reply to Jackob:

Read rock warriors way.

It's got an element of hippy bollox to it, but lots is very good.

In reply to Jackob:

Vertical Mind is also worth a read.

In reply to Jackob:

A good short video from TED about effective practice.

3:40 on is particularly relevant to your question. It's based on quality research, and shows the value of visualisation in reinforcing physical skills:

https://ed.ted.com/lessons/how-to-practice-effectively-for-just-about-anyth...

In reply to Jackob:

I see you like alpine stuff from your profile.

I would advise lying down in a bath filled with ice cubes and cold bath water whilst wearing all your kit, with the lights off whilst a house mate plays cliff hanger sound bites loudly from another room. At the moment you are close to passing out you need to be dragged free by said house mate wearing a Reinhold Messner face mask wielding a golden axe.

Repeat, at least three to five reps per set, twice a week.

Go straight to the master:

youtube.com/watch?v=XZbVLvT7qBU&

In reply to Jackob:

Carry ice around.

Punch the wall.

Scream at strangers.

Hate everyone.

Good luck! BB.

In reply to Jackob:

There's a 56m lecture by Arno Ilgner (Rock Warriors Way) on Youtube. He's definitely an interesting guy.

youtube.com/watch?v=d4kH0aD6O8s&

Also Jerry Moffatt's new book, Mastermind, has just come out.

In reply to Jon Stewart:



Yes quite. If you can get past the first chapter on 'the self' then you have a far stonger mind than me! Hippy bollox is putting it mildly. I'd rather be shit and scared.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

There is a less hippy version of the Rock Warriors Way, which is better than the original.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Espresso-Lessons-Rock-Warriors-Way/dp/0974011231/r...

In reply to Jackob:

Visualisation has a really strong evidence base. You could do a lot for your confidence when leading etc if you committed to regular visualisation practice.

In reply to Jackob:

Sudoku.

In reply to Jackob:
I think one of the healthiest things you can do when you cannot physically climb is to maximise your rest.

Resting is crucial to getting stronger and your muscles and tendons only get stronger after you punished them in training.

The best rest involves a good quality long sleep, decreasing stress during the day.

Is your diet relatively healthy allowing your muscles to recover well?

Additionally, I also find that inspiration is a powerful tool and I happen to get inspired to try stuff when I am resting. Maybe it's a route on an upcoming route that you have to try in your lifetime or a new training technique. Inspiration goes a long way as a force to change habits.

Another idea is to read Dave Mac's 9 out of 10 climbers. One of the best training resources I have read.

Finally, if you are really a bit bored I guess you could start a UKC topic suggesting that Flying Butress Direct should have a bolt anchor installed so that it can be used conveniently as an endurance training route for laps.