In reply to cha1n:
> An injury has forced me open hand and I've had to drop about 4 grades if not more to get by - this is extremely depressing...
Are you training or are you performing? No one is saying don't ever crimp - it's ok in performance situations, some holds do just need crimping. What you want to get out of is crimping everythning habitually. If you are training, then suck it up - you are working your weaknesses, grade is unimportant except as a guideline - ie. if you have to drop 4 grades then you have some serious work to do!
> Also, I feel very insecure when open handing. You know the feeling you get when you're climbing on slopers and you feel like you've got limited movement and you constantly feel like you're going to peel off? That's the feeling I get.
Yeah you get used to that. Crimping I think always feels a bit more secure but most of the time an open hand grip feels *secure enough* and on some holds does actually feel more secure, for some reason.
> And lastly, what's all this about open handing being less strenuous? I've been getting pumped far more quickly whilst open handing.
As I understand it, the involvement of different forearm/finger flexors is different for open handing and crimping, so yes I think it takes a bit of getting used to. Chances are you are probably over gripping until you get used to it as it feels insecure?
> I hate this stupid grip type, is this going to be a slow improvement? As you may have noticed, it's driven me to insanity..
The way to look at it is, the weaker you are on it now, the steeper the learning curve and the bigger improvement you will see when you equalise your strength across grip types. Get to it...