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/ Pain in back of knee when heel hooking

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SuperLee1985 - on 08 Jun 2018

Recently when bouldering indoors I've been getting pains in the back of my knee when I try and pull hard on a heel hook.

I've been climbing for years and never really had any problems up until now and as far as I'm aware I'm not doing anything differently or pushing myself any harder than normal. I've never really bothered with stretching, but have found that as long as I warm up on sufficiently on easy routes I tend to stay injury free.

I'm a bit confused as to why this has suddenly started as I've never had an problems heel hooking in the past.

Has anyone else experienced similar problems? Do I just need to avoid using heel hooks for a while? Or do I need to focus more specifically on warming up whatever muscles and tendons get used when heel hooking? (and suggestions on how to warm up specifically for heel hooks would be helpful)

Cheers

Lee

Lemony - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to SuperLee1985:

I get a knee tendonitis every so often which is exacerbated by heel hooking and deep rockover moves.

Rest helps but I've had a couple of visits to a sports physio with it and he's given some exercises which seem to work.

1.) lie on your back on a carpeted floor, bend your bad knee slightly and then lift your back off the floor by pulling with your heel, bending from the knee. Hold for 10s, do a set of 10 reps with 5s rests repeat 5 times

2.) lie on your front with your bad knee fully cocked and then allow it to fall towards the floor. As it falls suddenly clench with the muscles in your thigh to stop it falling as quickly as possible. As if you were pulling out of kicking a football. Do this in sets of 20, 5 times varying the angle at which you catch the leg as much as possible without kicking the floor.

Works for me, hope it helps you.


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