UKC

Portable hangboards - The angle of the dangle

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 J Whittaker 04 Feb 2022

Does anyone have any knowledge/experience of portable hangboards and their difficulty in relation to how horizontal the holds are.

Can a couple of degrees either way have a major effect on how hard or easy they are?

Obviously at a more extreme angle they would either become an incut edge or a sloper but I'm talking about a small variance from perfect horizontal.

I've recently bought the Cafe Kraft medium hangboard as a training tool to use whilst I'm away and had my first go on it today. When I pulled on it, the hold was definitely sloping towards me but not massively.

I'm wondering do I need to refine my hanging setup to get it as horizontal as possible or am I just over thinking the whole thing and should just bloody get on with it!

 jezb1 04 Feb 2022
In reply to J Whittaker:

Not all hang boards are equal! 

I know this an immensely boring subject, but it’s all about how the cord sits.

My Awesome Woodys board, like a lot of other boards, has the cord offset, so it stays pretty flat.

Some boards are a right pain to use the crimps on if they slope!

 remus Global Crag Moderator 04 Feb 2022
In reply to J Whittaker:

Small differences in angle do make a big difference in how hard a hold is. Whether that matters depends what you're doing, if it's more for warming up for example it doesn't really matter. If you're training on it then it's useful to try and get a setup that's repeatable so you're not worrying about getting the intensity right with every session.

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 wbo2 04 Feb 2022
In reply to J Whittaker:  I have a semi-homemade board hanging from the stairs that needs a degree of fiddling to hang flat and vertical.  I replaced it with a problem solver board that is much easier to get hanging correctly , and stays vertical

 JLS 04 Feb 2022
In reply to J Whittaker:

>”I'm wondering do I need to refine my hanging setup to get it as horizontal as possible”

Not the same board, but I packed out the cord at the front to (over) correct for a tendency to tilt forward. I only ever use mine for warm-up so happy to have an easier more positive edge.

OP J Whittaker 04 Feb 2022
In reply to remus:

Cheers for all the replies.

It is being used for training, and I may use it for warm ups too but its quite long to take with me up to a mountain crag and a problem solver would suit that use better.

I'll have a fettle and see how well i can get it setup.


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