UKC

The subject of protein came up a few weeks ago. I just listened to a very informative podcast about protein for climbers by Brian Rigby (of ClimbingNutrition.com) and Tom Herbert (UK coach and trainer).

It's fairly long (about an hour and half) but you can listen to it in chunks. Covers just about everything you need to know eg.:

• protein as a switch and protein signalling
• protein supplements
• fast and slow release proteins
• BCAA's
• anabolic windows
• protein timing
• protein requirements for young and old
• leucine
• too much protein

Definitely recommended.
http://climbsci.com/cast/01-protein/

In reply to stp:

In all honesty, this isn't the thing that's gonna hold back my climbing.

In reply to stp:
Thanks for posting the link, I will try to listen to the whole thing. Maybe ukc could find somebody, one of people from climbing nutrition maybe , to write an article based on this ?

In reply to stp:

One day I'll think that problems are soluble. The next, that life is too short.

In reply to stp:

Gave it a listen.
Rencently I've been doing weighted hangs and so figured I'd be needing to up my protein up build muscle. It was interesting to hear the sort of figures for amounts of protein required. My initial reaction is that the recommendations of 20g every 3 hours is in practical meal terms, a lot of food and a lot of calories! I don't think I've ever eaten 3 eggs in one sitting! I'm now curious as to what practical a weekly menu would look like for me. It would be easy enough to eat more protein but figuring out want to remove to maintain calorie balance sounds tricky...

In reply to JLS:
I have no trouble with 3 eggs. It's the bacon, sausage, beans and fried bread that might be holding back my performance.

In all seriousness, bumping up protein and cutting out a lot of junk carbs will see you hitting protein goals within your calories no problems at all. Weigh your portions of rice/pasta etc. Warning though it can be a humbling experience.

In reply to dilatory:

Yep, that's exactly what i was doing and then i listened to their second podcast which is about carbs... Now, I am afraid to listen to their third podcast about fats, but i guess i will have time on one of my endless carbs+protein meals...

In reply to JLS:
If you are adding weight, I'm not sure which you need more of, but I would have thought an increase in the strength of your tendons and ligaments and connective tissue might be just as if not more important?

This article from Training Beta may help ...

http://www.climbhealthy.com/strengthen-tendons-and-ligaments/

(From .... https/www.trainingbeta.com/foods-strengthen-tendons-ligaments-climbhealthy/)

In reply to stp:
good info.
Worth adding that effects of such supplementation is felt best when training very hard in a structured way imo.

In reply to mike123:


Brian Rigby, one half of the podcast, has written a number of articles on protein on his website: climbingnutrition.com

In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Or I could just swallow a well-designed multi-vitamin + mineral pill, and not worry about exactly which foods contain the substances especially relevant for building tendons + ligaments (versus muscles).

Ken

In reply to Fakey Rocks:

>" I would have thought an increase in the strength of your tendons and ligaments and connective tissue might be just as if not more important?"

No, I definitely think it's lack of muscle power that's holding me back.
No point in having a 6" diameter drive shaft on a 50cc engine.

In reply to JLS:
You could easily up your protein intake with protein shakes meals, even small ones to supplement what you currently eat, without too many extra calories, eg blend Pulsins Pea Protein powder with soya milk ( vegan), or whatever u fancy.

If your diet is well balanced, you shouldn't need vitamin supplements, except b12 for vegans.
Everyone normally gets enough protein, even vegans, take a look at panda's & rhino's, but an athlete could benefit from strategic top ups like the article explains.

Which fingerboard type of training are you doing?
DaveMcCleods fingerboard training advice is good ...

https://www.trainingbeta.com/dave-macleod-edge-hangboard-hangboard-video/

In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Haven't been too successful with protein power. I've had a couple goes but haven't found a palatable delivery system. I figure that if I'm just mindful that getting protein is important then I'll at least improve on where I'm at currently, or be it, never get to optimal.

Yeah, I'd seen Dave's fingerboard video and plan to incorporate some of the key advice.
Over the last couple of years my finger boarding has been limited to Beastmaker app repeaters in the mistaken believe that it was a good method of training finger strength.
In recent weeks I'd started on 7sec/53sec max hangs i.e. with weight but following seeing Dave's video I'm thinking 10sec/1min50sec might be better.
Reflecting on the time spend just doing repeater rather than hangs with weight, I suspect it wasn't time wasted and will have provided a good grounding from which to start adding the weight. And again the 7-53 stuff will have been a less severe start than full on max weight.
Thanks for you interest.