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/ Slopers for open hand training

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Flinticus - on 06 Jan 2019

I've got a board over a door with crimpy type holds. I am thinking of replacing them with more sloper style holds. Will either hanging off them or doing pull ups help develop my open hand grip?

UKB Shark - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Flinticus:

You should be able to hold the crimp open handed as well as crimp it.

I mainly use a 20mm edge and do hangs in full crimp, half crimp and open handed (drag) positions. If I had just one hold to train on it would be a rounded edge between 20mm and 16mm.

Holding slopers is a different proposition again.  

 

    

Fishmate - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Flinticus:

I would say yes but dependent on the angle you intend to use. If you consider the two Beastmaker models have 20, 35 and 45 degree slopers. I use them and my open hand strength is just fine. That said I mainly boulder on sandstone and I'm quite weak at crimps in spite of addressing this. Maybe we should just swap kit? ;))

kenr - on 07 Jan 2019

Training by static hanging on slopy holds has little benefit for succeeding on slopy holds in actual climbing.

Training by static hanging on crimp holds has definite benefit for succeeding on slopy holds in actual climbing.

Because the physics of using a slopy handhold is to focus your pressure on the small area which is the most favorable - (not to spread the contact pressure over a wide area).

. . . (Similar to the physics of how to use a slopy foothold).

On easy slopers the physics does not matter. But on tricky slopers in actual climbing, accuracy with the physics makes all the difference. Phase 1 of the grasp is perceptual: To find the most favorable small area on the slopy hold. Phase 2 is to focus pressure on that small area, and that's where finger strength trained by hanging from crimp holds pays off.

Ken

wbo - on 08 Jan 2019
In reply to Flinticus: I don't rate hanging on slopers anymore either - unless it's pretty shiny you'll end up hanging on skin friction rather than developing strengh

 


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