UKC

Hi everyone, have scanned the forums but apologise if this is a repeat post

I've been suffering from what I believe is synovitis in the PIP joint in my right middle finger for quite some time now (more than 6 months). I don't feel pain whilst crimping, but mostly have issues with the sensitive joint sitting on slopers or being wedged into cracks, it hurts most when the joint is in contact with a surface. I have terrible range of motion in that finger too, the knuckle will go to around 90 degrees but no further, so I am able to do only the first quarter or so of movement of a tendon curl before the joint locks and begins to hurt. The joint is visibly swollen and noticeably stiffer the day after climbing.

I've seen multiple (very expensive) physios so far to no avail, so was wondering if anyone has managed to overcome this sort of injury before? I have tried regimens of stretches and tendon curls, but the pain leaves me worried about further injuring the joint and increasing inflammation. Has anyone successfully worked out the swelling with this, or another method?

Cheers! 

doesn't sound like you've had that confirmed?

have you concidered a stress fracture, can be difficult to see on an x-ray.

theres a thread on ukb about them

Hi Tom

I have pretty much what you describe in my left middle finger PIP. Mine has never got as bad as yours but doing the following has helped me manage it. 

1) crimp less. Especially full crimping. Get strong open handed and dragging as this helps a lot. I do circuits inside banning use of the thumb to train this!

2) ice immediately after an indoor session if it's causing you grief the next day. It works.

3) acupressure rings are useful to keep blood flow to the area. 

4) forearm massage. I have no idea why this helps and it may be a placebo but it seems to work. I get them particularly near the elbows on both sides of the forearm. Even if not directly connected this will help other things!

5) taping it. X tape or both sides of the joint. Again probably a placebo but tends to remind me the finger is a bit tweaky when I look at it and I then climb accordingly.

There's a good UKB thread which I started which discusses in a lot more detail. Mine definitely hasn't "healed" but it doesn't really affect my climbing currently, which I'll definitely settle for!

Hi Tom,

While I am unsure if my injury is synovitis - the symptoms sound similar, including the difficulty in getting an accurate diagnosis.  For me the pain is with my RH ring finger PIP joint.  It is always sore to touch, whether it has been used or not.  It is also sore to extend against resistance.

The only things I have found to help over the years are religious forearm massage (the current theory being that the pain is being referred from very tight forearm extensors, which - in my case - are likely due to poor strength and mobility at shoulder level).  Getting stronger open handing also seems to help too.

T.