Injured the A4 pulley of my left pinky finger yesterday. No big snap or anything, it had already been tweaky from Friday’s session, so I suspect it’s just a grade 1, but still, I'm bummed to have to scale back my climbing ambitions for the coming weeks/months. I have a pretty good sense of how to rehab it generally from past experience with ring-finger pulley injuries, but I’m wondering if others have experience specifically with pinky injuries. I’ll definitely take at least the next week or so off climbing (if not more), but it seems possible to splint it with lots of tape and continue to train endurance on jugs without loading it, in a way that would be more difficult with a ring-finger injury — anyone else done this?
Also thinking it will be a good time to climb cracks outdoors. Have wanted to climb The File — any other good objectives? I have a week off at the end of July, but I may just aim for big scrambly mountain days and forget about proper climbing…
Would also love to generally hear people’s strategies for training around pulley injuries. (Good time to focus on stuff like core strength I suppose.)
I blame the unsettled weekend weather of late, which has kept me in London, trying hard at on crimpy gym problems, rather than outdoors on Peak slopers and jams.
Hoping I’ll be in semi-fighting shape by the time of a big trip to Colorado in September!!
Post edited at 12:52
