/ Training articles on the web - links

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UKB Shark 06 Dec 2007
With the onset of the indoor season I thought it might be timely to compile a list of linked articles on physical training from the web to try and make some order of the bewildering amount of free material out there.

The articles I found are listed and grouped by the authors I recognised (Adrian Berry, Dave Binney, John Gill, Neil Gresham, Eric Horst, Dave MacLeod, Steve McClure, Ben Moon, Audry Morrison and Marius Morstad) followed by a Lucky Dip section.

I can add any other links to other useful articles/material/sites at the end of the thread for a more comprehensive list.

Adrian Berry (Coach)
Time to Train
5 things you can do at the climbing wall to improve your outdoor leading

Dave Binney (Scientist)
Unfortunately still in development but will include: Self assessment, Warming up, Training methods, Interval training, Circuit training, Resistance training, Endurance, Strength, Strength endurance, Cardio work, Flexibility, Training plans

His papers are linked here:

Competitive Rock Climbers: Phyliological & Anthropometric Attributes
Blood Lactate Response to Forearm Specific Exercise in Rock Climbers
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance

Neil Gresham (Coach)
5 Things you can do to improve your bouldering

Training Juniors 1
Training Juniors 2
Warming Up
Working Weaknesses
Self Coaching
Learning From Other Sports
Cross Training
Arm Movements
Isolation Training
Weight Training
System Training
Bouldering for Strength
Advanced Bouldering Exercises
Campus Boarding
Finger Boarding
Finger Strength Training
SACC Training
Interval Training
Endurance Training
Competition Training
Mixed Climbing Training
Winter Climbing Training
Mid-Season Top-Up
Using a Climbing Wall to Stay Fit

Eric Horst (Author of Training for Climbing )
Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Bouldering as Training for Climbing
Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
Training the Core Muscles
Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
Training at the Crags
Effective Pull-up Training
Developing "Limit" Strength
Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
Best of "Pump Rock" Training
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
Complex Training
The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Pilates Training for Climbers

Dave MacLeod (Coach)
Dave MacLeod Answers Your Training Questions - Part One
Principles of training
Rough guide to physical training for rock climbing
Learning technique
Some basics of climbing research
Young Climbers
Home Training
Translating strength
Energy cycles

Steve McClure (Route setter)
Power Endurance - McClure

Ben Moon (Climbing equipment supplier)
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon
10 Ways to revamp your climbing
Principles of planning your climbing year
The 3 training phases for climbing
Using a training diary
Endurance Training
Core body – the missing link
Introduction to Training
Training Questionaire
Training and Goal Setting
Power Training
Training Plan
Warming Up
Warming Down
Flexibility and Stretching Intro
Stretches Lower Body
Stretches Upper Body
Campus Boarding
Fingerboard Training Plan
Bouldering Training
Systems Training
Systems Training Plan

Audry Morrison (Scientist)

Review of the physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers – abstract of paper

Marius Morstad (Coach)
Training Strength

Lucky Dip

Recruitment finger training
Short cuts to 8a
Lactid acid
DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly?
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
Power Endurance - McClure
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Static vs. dynamic technique
Pump and how to avoid it
Specific finger position training

Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon/Lynn Hill/Francois Legrand/Josune Bereziartu/John Gill
Better Bouldering: Master's Advice

pdf download: Training Manual for Competition Climbing

Upper Body Training Favorites: Preparing for Rock Climbing
Alpine Core Training Beyond The Floor
Yoga and Climbing: Injury Prevention or Causation?
Climbing Technique: Gym Drills
Lofty Ambitions: How to Select Your Next Goal
Climbing, Pregnancy, and Exercise: A Reality Check
Evaluate your climbing training program
Climbing Conditioning Essentials
How to improve your pullups, even if you can't do any
More pullup training tips
The Alpine warmup
Train the triceps for climbing
Keep your upper back muscles well-balanced
Train for the Mountains when you're not in the Mountains

Core Stability - an introduction

Rock Climbing Training - Strength
Rock Climbing Training - Burst or Explosive Power
Rock Climbing Training - Endurance
Rock Climbing Training - Strength and Endurance

Use A Fingerboard
Pure Force Training
Rock Ring Training
10 Minute Sequence
Advanced Training
Advanced Training

http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm (Italian site)
Technique and flow
Plyometric training

Performance training

Collection of science articles

biscuit 06 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

brilliant - another excuse to not actually do any training cos i'm still researching my training schedule :0)

Seriously though cheers for that it'll make for some good browsing on the dark winter nights.
TomPR 06 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

Ace - that's got to be the best/most useful post of 2007! Thanks!
Michael Ryan 06 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

Can we put that in a permanent article at UKC Simon? Top job.

AlisonS 06 Dec 2007
In reply to TomPR:

Well; quite frankly it should be upgraded to an article.

And while I'm at it; I think articles should be subdivided into transient (e.g. "my first lead") and reference; such as this one and the one on cleaning ropes.

AlisonS 06 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Aha! You are on the case. Good man! (being my usual patronising self and all that....)

Michael Ryan 06 Dec 2007
In reply to AlisonS:

Most certainly a FAQ. Permanent like you say Alison.
abarro81 06 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:
mega. if ukc had karma points you'd have got shed loads for that! ta
catt 10 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

Excellent, cheers Simon.
OllieR 11 Dec 2007
Good work! How long did that take to compile?

tobyfk 11 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

Excellent work. Have seen most of those but it's very useful to have them all in one place.

In passing: I just stumbled over a nice typo at the Moon site .. or is it a typo?

The calves are probably one of the most used leg muscles in climbing, especially in slab climbing since a lot of your body weight is transferred through this muscle. To help prevent stiffness and muscle cramps when on long and difficult slab climbs it is important to stay subtle in this area.

UKB Shark 11 Dec 2007
In reply to ClimbFrance:

Longer than I thought it would.
elfin11 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee: Many thanks for posting this,very usefull.
UKB Shark 12 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

It might be useful to have a separate Science research section. There is an extensive list of research papers listed at the end of Dave MacLeods article 'Some basics of climbing research'. I cant seem to paste it (if anyone else can please do) but the link to the list of referenced work is here:

MarkWallace13 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

A great collection of articles Simon! Some I've seen before and some I haven't. My question is which is the best advice to follow?

Based upon the UKC Fit Club being 38 weeks old it would be interesting to know who's improving most and what training methods they've adopted if any, and thus my question above could be answered by the UKC population.

Keep up the good work
galpinos 13 Dec 2007
In reply to MarkWallace:

I'd recommend training like a beast on a systems board in your garage Mark.
UKB Shark 13 Dec 2007
In reply to MarkWallace: which is the best advice to follow?

As with much else in life it is far better to gain understanding than slavishly follow others advice - ultimately you are your own best adviser as you are most motivated to serve your personal interests.

If you approach it clinically - start with clearly identifying what you want to get out of training ie specific goals or general fitness. Ascertain where you are up to in your development and those areas you have to develop. Work out how much time, motivation and resources you have. Read around the subject and work out what sort of training will be best for you and incorporate it into some sort of plan.

Training isnt for everybody.
MarkWallace13 Dec 2007
In reply to galpinos:

MarkWallace13 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

> As with much else in life it is far better to gain understanding than slavishly follow others advice - ultimately you are your own best adviser as you are most motivated to serve your personal interests.

I agree, although seeing trends in training for climbing methodologies is of interest as there have been numerous developments over the years.

Personally speaking I've seen the most benefit recently through systems training on a 45 degree board.

Thanks for the words of wisdom

urbanmonkey 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee: Cheers fella, it's good to have a thread that isn't just the regular trolling and bitching.
UKB Shark 13 Dec 2007
In reply to MarkWallace:

For power endurance training/shorter sport routes systems boards are the business. I have a homemade systems/HIT board in a shed replete with 40lb weight vest. I should do more of it if I was more dedicated but its not much fun and freezing in the shed at the moment.

On second thoughts I will do a session shortly to make up for comfort climbing at the Foundry last night.

UKB Shark 04 Jan 2008
UKB Shark 10 Jan 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

The excellent 'Rough guide to training for rock climbing'by Dave MacLeod is a deadlink if you click on the list of articles but can still be accessed on http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/roughtrainingguide.html
marvin15 Jan 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
Nice collection of articles, you can check my website www.marvinclimbing.com, with some training articles and exercises
UKB Shark 05 Feb 2008

Not an article but a long and seemingly well-informed thread based around climbing with weight belts/weight vests as championed by Horst's hypergravity training and debunked by 'aerili'.


(I would credit Serpico with linking this thread but he was moonlighting on UKB)
Jenn 05 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Not sure if you are interested - but I found these to be helpful:

Working the Antagonists

Rockclimbing.com Training Article - The Making of a 'Rockprodigy'
rginns05 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee: excellent work Simon, you really are dedicated to the cause!

staceyjg 05 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

What a fantastic post, will spend some time (many hours) reviewing and planning when I get a minute!
Serpico05 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
How do you know it's not UKC that I moonlight on?
Anyway if we're posting threads here's another (mostly) excellent one that'll kill a few hours for you:
UKB Shark 05 Feb 2008
In reply to Serpico:

I thought ARC training was the most boring thing in the world - but reading about it is even worse.
Serpico05 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to Serpico)
> I thought ARC training was the most boring thing in the world - but reading about it is even worse.

Blasphemer! And you think you know somebody...
Anyway,I've just read it again, only took me an hour, and was well worth revisiting old ground.
I'll be testing you on it next time I see you.
Serpico06 Feb 2008
Serpico07 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
...and still they come, this one is in no way directed specifically at you:
UKB Shark 07 Feb 2008
In reply to Serpico:

Hey - Ive lost 5lbs in the last 2 weeks !

The diet one appears to be a better written up post by 'stow' on thread from rockclimbing.com. I regularly paste the transcript on dieting threads as they crop up but can now paste that link instead.

Re your earlier blasphemer comment - it made me realise that my relationship with training is more hate than love compounded by lacking useful traits like self-discipline, patience, studiuosness...I could go on

Keep the links coming
Serpico12 Feb 2008
UKB Shark 24 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Planetfear's website has gone down along with its archive of articles which tragically includes Neil Gresham's comprehensive range of excellent training articles.

Neil has posted some info on periodisation on his own website. I hope he adds the training articles in due course.

biscuit 25 Feb 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Another thread on here has provided this ( temporary ? ) way to get to the articles.


many thanks to sutty.

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