With the onset of the indoor season I thought it might be timely to compile a list of linked articles on physical training from the web to try and make some order of the bewildering amount of free material out there.
The articles I found are listed and grouped by the authors I recognised (Adrian Berry, Dave Binney, John Gill, Neil Gresham, Eric Horst, Dave MacLeod, Steve McClure, Ben Moon, Audry Morrison and Marius Morstad) followed by a Lucky Dip section.
I can add any other links to other useful articles/material/sites at the end of the thread for a more comprehensive list.
Dave Binney (Scientist) http://climbing.timeoutdoors.com/Training/3CLMDBY01100302E.htm
Unfortunately still in development but will include: Self assessment, Warming up, Training methods, Interval training, Circuit training, Resistance training, Endurance, Strength, Strength endurance, Cardio work, Flexibility, Training plans
Eric Horst (Author of Training for Climbing ) http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/new/articles.shtml
Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Bouldering as Training for Climbing
Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
Training the Core Muscles
Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
Training at the Crags
Effective Pull-up Training
Developing "Limit" Strength
Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
Best of "Pump Rock" Training
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Pilates Training for Climbers
Ben Moon (Climbing equipment supplier) http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,0,4,0,training.html
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx
10 Ways to revamp your climbing
Principles of planning your climbing year
The 3 training phases for climbing
Using a training diary
Core body – the missing link
Introduction to Training
Training and Goal Setting
Flexibility and Stretching Intro
Stretches Lower Body
Stretches Upper Body
Fingerboard Training Plan
Systems Training Plan
Recruitment finger training
Short cuts to 8a
DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly?
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
Power Endurance - McClure
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Static vs. dynamic technique
Pump and how to avoid it
Specific finger position training
Upper Body Training Favorites: Preparing for Rock Climbing
Alpine Core Training Beyond The Floor
Yoga and Climbing: Injury Prevention or Causation?
Climbing Technique: Gym Drills
Lofty Ambitions: How to Select Your Next Goal
Climbing, Pregnancy, and Exercise: A Reality Check
Evaluate your climbing training program
Climbing Conditioning Essentials
How to improve your pullups, even if you can't do any
More pullup training tips
The Alpine warmup
Train the triceps for climbing
Keep your upper back muscles well-balanced
Train for the Mountains when you're not in the Mountains
Rock Climbing Training - Strength
Rock Climbing Training - Burst or Explosive Power
Rock Climbing Training - Endurance
Rock Climbing Training - Strength and Endurance
Excellent work. Have seen most of those but it's very useful to have them all in one place.
In passing: I just stumbled over a nice typo at the Moon site .. or is it a typo?
The calves are probably one of the most used leg muscles in climbing, especially in slab climbing since a lot of your body weight is transferred through this muscle. To help prevent stiffness and muscle cramps when on long and difficult slab climbs it is important to stay subtle in this area.
It might be useful to have a separate Science research section. There is an extensive list of research papers listed at the end of Dave MacLeods article 'Some basics of climbing research'. I cant seem to paste it (if anyone else can please do) but the link to the list of referenced work is here:
A great collection of articles Simon! Some I've seen before and some I haven't. My question is which is the best advice to follow?
Based upon the UKC Fit Club being 38 weeks old it would be interesting to know who's improving most and what training methods they've adopted if any, and thus my question above could be answered by the UKC population.
In reply to MarkWallace: which is the best advice to follow?
As with much else in life it is far better to gain understanding than slavishly follow others advice - ultimately you are your own best adviser as you are most motivated to serve your personal interests.
If you approach it clinically - start with clearly identifying what you want to get out of training ie specific goals or general fitness. Ascertain where you are up to in your development and those areas you have to develop. Work out how much time, motivation and resources you have. Read around the subject and work out what sort of training will be best for you and incorporate it into some sort of plan.
> As with much else in life it is far better to gain understanding than slavishly follow others advice - ultimately you are your own best adviser as you are most motivated to serve your personal interests.
I agree, although seeing trends in training for climbing methodologies is of interest as there have been numerous developments over the years.
Personally speaking I've seen the most benefit recently through systems training on a 45 degree board.
For power endurance training/shorter sport routes systems boards are the business. I have a homemade systems/HIT board in a shed replete with 40lb weight vest. I should do more of it if I was more dedicated but its not much fun and freezing in the shed at the moment.
On second thoughts I will do a session shortly to make up for comfort climbing at the Foundry last night.
The diet one appears to be a better written up post by 'stow' on thread from rockclimbing.com. I regularly paste the transcript on dieting threads as they crop up but can now paste that link instead.
Re your earlier blasphemer comment - it made me realise that my relationship with training is more hate than love compounded by lacking useful traits like self-discipline, patience, studiuosness...I could go on
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