/ TRNovice's goals for 2008

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TRNovice 13 Jan 2008
As I am too lazy (irony appreciated) to keep posting them on UKC Fit Club Week X

Short-term goals

  • Single pitch E2 onsight (most likely on slate, Psychotherapy/Pull My Daisy/Sterling Silver/German Schoolgirl/Last Tango in Paris are candidates)
  • Mountain multi-pitch HVS (need to think of some options here)
  • Get some more UK V4s and V5s (The Edge Problem, Dog Shooter, Toe Dragon, Conan the Librarian, etc. etc.)
  • Get back into regular training after illnesses

    Medium-term goals

  • E3 onsight (again most likely slate Goose Creature/CTD are candidates)
  • E1 MP (I have a binding agreement about Cemetery Gates)
  • E1 single pitch on something other than slate
  • Climb V6 in the UK and V5 in Bishop
  • Target strengthening the first two fingers of my right hand to compensate for lack of tendon in the third (fingerboard stuff mostly)
  • TRNovice 03 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Following on from my first experience of [failing] redpointing, I guess I should add some sport goals: -

    Short-term goal

  • RP F7a

    Medium-term goal

  • RP F7a+
  • TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 42

    Ill earlier in the week (as per the previous week) and now still getting over the ‘flu and very fatigued

    M – ill
    T – ill
    W – ill
    Th – probably the most desultory attempt at a fingerboard session ever recorded :-o
    F – rest (after what?)
    S – 4 hours bouldering at The Castle – very tired and weak, but kept going
    Su – 2 hours bouldering and 1 hour on what passes for routes at The Castle, about the most notable thing being managing to climb through tiredness / lack of energy
    TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 43

    M - 25km bike ride
    T - campus session (managed 1-4-1s for first time) / general bouldering
    W - 11km bike ride / 1.5 hours yoga
    Th - 11km bike ride
    F - Rest / drive to the Peak
    S - Attempted to boulder at Ramshaw, Newstones & The Roaches Upper Tier for several hours - lots of aerobic exercise plugging through the mud
    Su - 4 hours bouldering at The Climbing Works

    Getting back into the swing of cycling to work again after Xmas lay-off / illness. First campus session since 1st October 2007 - as you might expect not stellar, e.g. struggling with normal ladders. However managed to do some 1-4-1s for the first time. I guess I have a bit more power but a lot less endurance! Nice weather in The Peak on Saturday, but sadly after torrential rain and snow in the previous days. Did some impromptu skiing at Ramshaw but couldn't find anything that was both dry and unoccupied. Had a look at Newstones but most things I wanted to do were wet, so ended up at The Roaches Upper Tier. Didn't get a lot done, but good to be on rock for the first time since November (not for lack of trying).
    TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 44

    Ill again, this time the dreaded gastric 'flu Monday / Tuesday . Off work Tuesday and Wednesday, but I guess it was relatively mild.

    M - Rest / Ill
    T - Ill
    W - Rest after being ill
    Th - Rest
    F - Rest
    S - 4 hours bouldering at The Castle - got my highest score on the boulder ladder FWIW
    Su - 3 hours bouldering at The Castle - rather tired but finally got a lowly UK 5c project (the positive news being I did so after cutting loose on middle two fingers of left hand and first two fingers of my right *)

    Despite the multiple illnesses, I suppose that I am beginning to get some basic strength back; I just wish it would stop raining so I could see where this gets me outside.

    * I have no tendon in the top section of my second middle finger on my right hand from playing rugby and it is a MTG to strengthen the first two fingers, seems to be going OK
    TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 45

    Most surprisingly not ill this week - it surely can't last!!!

    M - 21km bike ride
    T - 3 hours bouldering at The Castle
    W - 11km bike ride / 1.5 hours yoga
    Th - 11km bike ride
    F - 3 hours bouldering at The Castle - finally got UK 6a "project"
    S - Rest
    Su - Rest / at The Castle, but spotting / belaying

    Starting to improve again, if slowly, now need some mileage on rock as opposed to the seemingly endless plastic-pulling I have been doing over Xmas. Hopefully next weekend or the following - weather allowing.
    TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 46

    Not terribly ill last week either, but now I have a cold *sigh*

    M - 3 hours bouldering at The Castle, mostly roof-climbing up to UK 5c - pumpy! 88 press-ups - pyramind sets.
    T - 11km bike ride
    W - 11km bike ride / 1.5 hours yoga
    Th - Rest
    F - Drive to Portland
    S - 4-5 hours bouldering at Neddyfields and The Cuttings (nothing above V1 :-o), 2 hours projecting a 7a route (will go next visit, touch wood)
    Su - 4 hours bouldering at The Cuttings up to V3 (too cold and windy for routes)

    Have never tried redpointing a sport climb before, always treated them like trad up to now (probably why my best sport grade is only F6a+ - onsight of course!). Rather a revelation projecting a 7a - felt more like bouldering .
    TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 47

    A bit sniffly, but the cold has not developed into anything else more nasty for a change!

    M - Rest
    T - 21km bike ride
    W - 1.5 hours yoga
    Th - 11km bike ride / 3 hours bouldering at The Castle
    F - Drive to Yorkshire
    S - 5 hours bouldering / soloing at Slipstones (first time on Yorkshire Grit). A bit knackered from the 6.5 hour drive so nothing above V2 / Severe, but a good day nevertheless - got to see Dave Birkett bouldering which was a nice bonus!
    Su - 4 hours bouldering at a heaving Almscliff - really tired and again nothing above V2, but good to be out anyway

    Was great to be out in the sunshine - was climbing in just a single layer both days, felt like Spring. Nothing much to report grade-wise, but got some mileage into the fingers and arms anyway .
    TRNovice 17 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 48

    Not a very good week training- or climbing-wise (that would be British understatement cutting in BTW): -

    M - Not a lot
    T - 3 hours of "bouldering" at a pretty pathetic standard at The Castle - including failing several problems that I had climbed before
    W - Not a lot
    Th - Valentine's so I had an Exeat for the day!
    F - Not a lot
    S - Not a lot
    Su - Not a lot

    I guess a number of things conspired against me, work- and personal-wise, this week as well as being worn out from two climbing trips over the previous two weekends (I called Wilbur a lightweight for the same on week 47's thread :-o).

    I take solace in the possibility that I may be fit and raring to go next week (unlikely as that might seem at present as I would prefer to crawl into bed).
    TRNovice 24 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 49

    Goals as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349

    From UKC Fit Club 48: "I take solace in the possibility that I may be fit and raring to go next week" - bah humbug!

    Terrible week climbing/training through a combination of yet another cold, my foot hurting me (guess I should go and have it checked out) and my climbing/training partner being injured as well: -

    M - Not a lot
    T - Not a lot
    W - Not a lot
    Th - Not a lot
    F - Not a lot
    S - Not a lot
    Su - 1.5 hours yoga

    <attempt to be positive>Well I guess there is only one way from here; upwards.</attempt to be positive>.
    TRNovice 24 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Addendum to Week 49

    Puntered-down version based on programme at http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx?ID=20 but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: -

    1. Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
    2. Double armed dead hang on three fingers of one hand and two of other (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    3. Off-set dead hang open handed on three fingers on one arm (1.5 joint hold), and other on bottom rail (0.5 joint hold) with other hand. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms. Rest 5 minutes.
    4. Double armed dead hang on full crimp position (1 joint edge). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    5. [Repeat] Double armed dead hang on full crimp position (1 joint edge). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    6. Off-set dead hangs with one hand (1 joint edge), other on bottom rail (0.5 joint edge).Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
    Rest 5-8 minutes

    1. 90 degree lock off with jug for one arm and (1.5 joint) edge for other. Lock off for between 8 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 2 minutes between each rep.
    2. Off-set pull ups, one arm on jug, other on (1.5 joint) edge. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.
    3. Leg lifts, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times.
    Completed without any failures.
    TRNovice 26 Feb 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Slight modification for latest set: -

    2. Off-set pull ups, one arm on jug, other on (1 joint) edge. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.
    TRNovice 01 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Cut-down weight session

  • 2 sets of 15 seated one-arm curls, one on each arm – 10kg weight
  • 2 sets of 15 standing arm curls – 10kg weight on each arm
  • 2 sets of 10 seated one-arm curls, one on each arm – 14kg weight
  • 2 sets of 10 standing shoulder presses, - 10kg weight on each arm
  • sharmawho? 01 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice: Try doing an e1 single pitch onsite on grit. That should be different enough to slate for you ;) Come to dartmoor aswell theres some solid and really good e2's and e3's!

    Short terms for me are to onsite dont stop now and aerobic wall ( both e2 5b) long term is probs hot ice (e4 6a) Ive shunted lots and can do the first half clean and the second half
    just cant link them yet! lol soon though....o yes theres the part that theres only one bad micro wire on the route. Its a good good good good route though
    Richard Sutton 01 Mar 2008
    In reply to sharmawho?: He's had a thread to himself for over a month and you've just spoilt it.

    Oh F*ck I've just made it worse
    TRNovice 01 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    <fingers in ears> I can't hear you - la, la, la, la, la </fingers in ears>

    TRNovice 01 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Amendment to Cut-down weight session

  • 2 sets of 15 seated one-arm curls, one on each arm – 10kg weight
  • 2 sets of 15 standing arm curls – 10kg weight on each arm
  • 2 sets of 10 seated one-arm curls, one on each arm – 14kg weight
  • 2 sets of 10 standing shoulder presses, - 10kg weight on each arm
  • 74 push-ups, pyramid set (8-10-12-14-12-10-8)
  • TRNovice 02 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 50

    Goals as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349

    Some semblance of a return to training after last week’s sorry debacle. Would have liked to have fitted in another 20km on the bike and one other form of exercise, but moving in the right direction for now I guess:-

    M - Not a lot
    T - Fingerboard session as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&new=4274742#x4268942
    W - 12km bike ride / 1.5 hours yoga
    Th - 21km bike ride
    F - 2.5 beers
    S - Weights / push ups as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&new=4279185#x4279080
    Su - Fingerboard session as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&new=4274742#x4268942
    TRNovice 02 Mar 2008
    In reply to sharmawho?:
    > (In reply to TRNovice) Try doing an e1 single pitch onsite on grit. That should be different enough to slate for you ;)

    I tend to boulder or solo most grit, have meant to try Dartmoor sometime however .
    TRNovice 02 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Fingerboard for punters (version III)

    Revised for latest set

    Puntered-down version based on programme at http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx?ID=20 but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: -
    1. Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
    2. Double armed dead hang on three fingers of one hand and two of other (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times with each arm “leading” (4 in total) resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    3. Off-set dead hang open handed on three fingers on one arm (1.5 joint hold), and other on bottom rail (0.5 joint hold) with other hand. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms. Rest 5 minutes.
    4. Double armed dead hang on full crimp position (1 joint edge). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    5. [Repeat] Double armed dead hang on full crimp position (1 joint edge). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each. *
    6. Off-set dead hangs with one hand (1.0 joint edge), other on bottom rail (0.5 joint edge).Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
    Rest 5-8 minutes
    1. 90 degree lock off with jug for one arm and (1.0 joint) edge for other. Lock off for between 8 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 2 minutes between each rep.
    2. Off-set pull ups, one arm on jug, other on (1.5 joint) edge. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.
    3. Leg lifts, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times.
    * Suggest doing this set on 1.0 joint edge next time round.
    TRNovice 02 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Addendum to Week 50

    Su 74 push-ups pyramid set (8-10-12-14-12-10-8)
    Morgan Woods 03 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    dude....if you keep replying to yourself you could go blind ;o
    TRNovice 03 Mar 2008
    In reply to Morgan Woods:

    Is it just me that finds it odd Australians saying "dude" - and you are clearly much too preoccupied with onanism given your recent Claudia Schiffer analogy for bouldering at the Cromlechs!
    TRNovice 04 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Fingerboard for punters (version IV)

    Revised for latest set

    Puntered-down version based on programme at http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx?ID=20 but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: -
    1. Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
    2. Double armed dead hang on three fingers of one hand and two of other (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times with each arm “leading” (4 in total) resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    3. Off-set dead hang open handed on three fingers on one arm (1.5 joint hold), and other on bottom rail (0.5 joint hold) with other hand. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms. Rest 5 minutes.
    4. Double armed dead hang on full crimp position (1 joint edge). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat four hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    5. Double armed dead hang on full crimp position 1.0 joint edge for one hand, 0.5 joint rail for other. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat one hang for each hand resting 1.5 minutes between each. *
    6. Off-set dead hangs with one hand (1.0 joint edge), other on bottom rail (0.5 joint edge).Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
    Rest 5-8 minutes
    1. 90 degree lock off with jug for one arm and (1.0 joint) edge for other. Lock off for 8 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 2 minutes between each rep.
    2. Off-set pull ups, one arm on jug, other on (1.0 joint) edge. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.
    3. Leg lifts, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times.
    * Suggest moving to 2 1.0/1.0 hangs and 4 1.0/0.5 hangs next time
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Amendment to Cut-down weight session

  • 3 sets of 15 seated one-arm curls, one on each arm – 10kg weight
  • 2 sets of 15 standing arm curls – 10kg weight on each arm
  • 2 sets of 10 seated one-arm curls, one on each arm – 14kg weight
  • 2 sets of 10 standing shoulder presses, - 10kg weight on each arm
  • 74 push-ups, pyramid set (8-10-12-14-12-10-8)
  • TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Fingerboard for punters (version V)

    Revised for latest set

    Puntered-down version based on programme at http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx?ID=20 but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: -
    1. First set
      • Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
      • Double armed dead hang on three fingers of one hand and two of other (1.5 joint holds). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times with each arm “leading” (4 in total) resting 1.5 minutes between each.
      • Off-set dead hang open handed on three fingers on one arm (1.5 joint hold), and other on bottom rail (0.5 joint hold) with other hand. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
    2. Rest 5 minutes.
    3. Second set
      • Double armed dead hang on full crimp position (1 joint edge). Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
      • Double armed dead hang on full crimp position 1.0 joint edge for one hand, 0.5 joint rail for other. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat two hangs for each hand resting 1.5 minutes between each.
      • Off-set dead hangs with one hand (1.0 joint edge), other on bottom rail (0.5 joint edge).Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
    4. Rest 5-8 minutes
    5. Third set
      • 90 degree lock off with jug for one arm and (1.0 joint) edge for other. Lock off for between 8 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 2 minutes between each rep.
      • Off-set pull ups, one arm on jug, other on (1.0 joint) edge. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.
      • Leg lifts, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times.
    Owen W-G 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Less training, more climbing!
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Owen W-G:

    Can't climb much at the moment I'm afraid for a variety of reasons; hence the training. If you are that concerned about me climbing, scroll up to some of the earlier UKC Fit Club entries.
    John P 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    I was trying to figure out the total length of time of Thursdays First set. Is it correct that you are hanging a total of 1 minute and resting 15 minutes? If so, there is a hell of a lot of resting going on there.
    Morgan Woods 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to John P:
    > (In reply to TRNovice)
    >
    > Is it correct that you are hanging a total of 1 minute and resting 15 minutes? If so, there is a hell of a lot of resting going on there.

    no that is just to allow time to post progress on UKC!
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to John P:
    > (In reply to TRNovice)
    >
    > I was trying to figure out the total length of time of Thursdays First set. Is it correct that you are hanging a total of 1 minute and resting 15 minutes? If so, there is a hell of a lot of resting going on there.

    Just following Mr Moon's recommendations - though significantly reducing the difficulty of each specific exercise to match my meagre abilities. FWIW tried the Metolius exercises that came with the board (and had much longer hangs) and they never felt at all pertinent to climbing. The Moon ones do. Also the Wood Grips board is significantly juggier than the Moon Board, but you have to start somewhere - right?
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Morgan Woods:

    That was a key recommendation that Ben made, typing between sets promotes recruitment apparently.
    Morgan Woods 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    i just hope we're going to see some quality photos of you in "action".
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Morgan Woods:

    I'll get Jenn to video the entire process and post it on her blog - just for you Morgs (something like http://77jenn.blogspot.com/2008/01/motivation-self-belief.html maybe - scroll down). Although I must say that I am beginning to worry about your stalking tendencies.
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Morgan Woods:

    BTW can I borrow your Thundercats T-shirt as I hear that these are great for training in...
    Wilbur 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    > Get some more UK V4s and V5s

    How about Strawberries? I'll give you a V5 tick if you bag it! I had 25 attempts on Wednesday with no joy... can't be V4!!


    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    What this b@stard you mean? Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=71451
    Wilbur 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    indeed!

    are you allowed your right foot there? I assumed not?! Not sure it would make it any easier anyway!! I actually did some gbh to my left shoulder (from the gaston) by trying it so many times!
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    That was just one of my many contortions - admitedly I do seem to try it in summer, which doens't seem like a great idea. I think I got further with Trackside.

    How was the rest of your trip?
    Wilbur 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    yes - bad time of year for the grit bouldering!

    been alright ta - still up here and doing routes with Iain tomorrow/sun which will make a nice change from bouldering/soloing..

    getting out at the weekend?
    TRNovice 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    Nope - sadly not - have fun .
    Wilbur 07 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    that's a shame..

    we will do if the weather holds up ok mate!
    TRNovice 08 Mar 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    Hope it's better for you up there than it is in London right now!
    TRNovice 09 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 51

    Not a lot of cardio this week, but at least kept up the fingerboard stuff: -

    M - Rest
    T - Fingerboard session as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&new=4298381#x4286797
    W - Rest
    Th - Weights and 74 push-ups as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&new=4298376#x4292759 / Fingerboard session as per http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&v=1#x4292767
    F - Rest
    S - Rest
    Su - 10km bike ride (chug to park, one fast circuit, chug back) / Fingerboard session as per: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&v=1#x4292767 / 74 push-ups, pyramid set (8-10-12-14-12-10-8)
    Morgan Woods 10 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    some thoughts TR.....sterling silver would be a good choice for an E2. Much easier than either German Schoolgirls or Fools Gold.

    also - where's the mileage? i think you're plenty strong enough for any eng. 5c crux you would encounter but to get through that you need lots of route fitness. to get that it's a good idea to build up your endurance base.

    it can be a little bit chicken/egg ie strength to do the moves or endurance to hang in but i find you can avoid the standard finger strains with lots of volume.

    so get the string out and get busy on the laps!
    TRNovice 10 Mar 2008
    In reply to Morgan Woods:

    Hi Morgs,

    Can't really do roped stuff at present - fingerboard at least gets me doing something (and training a weakness).
    TRNovice 16 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 52

    Did absolutely nothing all week
    TRNovice 24 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 53

    I'm assuming Monday 24th counts for week 54 right?

    Was in New Jersey for work much of the week.

    M - Fly to US
    T - US
    W - US
    Th - US
    F Fly back from US / Jet lagged
    S - First time at The Castle for months - gentle session, though have a [soft touch] UK 6a (i.e. V2) project
    Su - Vegetated, tried to figure out where in The Peak to go on Monday

    Actually got out on Monday and ticked an MTG, but I guess that will have to wait for next week .
    TRNovice 31 Mar 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 54

    I think I'm allowed to claim one MTG: -

    Medium-term goals

    [...]
  • Target strengthening the first two fingers of my right hand to compensate for lack of tendon in the third (fingerboard stuff mostly)

    I'll take holing, then locking off on, then popping from a first-two finger crimp on my right hand on Razor Roof Right Hand on Monday as evidence of significant progress against this objective.

    M - 7.5 hours bouldering in The Peak (Robin Hood's Stride, Cratcliffe, Curbar - failed Strawberries a few more times for old times sake - and Baslow) - problems up to Font 6b.
    T - Rest
    W - Rest
    Th - 2 hours bouldering at The Arch - problems up to [soft-touch] V5
    F - Rest
    S - Travelled to The Wye Valley, got wet, got car stuck in mud
    Su - Leading at Shorn Cliff, routes up to VS - first trad since September 2007, so a bit rusty

    A more promising week all in all I think. Need to get back on the bike and the fingerboard and to the wall this week.
  • TRNovice 06 Apr 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 55

    M - Rest
    T - Nowt
    W - Does a cricket net count as exercise?
    Th - Nowt
    F - 8km bike ride – not very far, but it has been a while / 3 hours bouldering at The Arch
    S - Nowt
    Su - Nowt

    Very poor week for a variety of reasons.
    TRNovice 15 Apr 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 56

    Sorry for the delay in posting, am in Brasil at present.

    Was ill much of last week and had two half-term related days as well.

    M - Nowt
    T - Nowt
    W - If Jenn gets to claim a 5 hour walk, so do I :-p
    Th - 2.5 hours easy bouldering at The Arch up to V4
    F - Nowt
    S - 2.5 hours easy bouldering at The Arch up to V4
    Su 8km bike ride / 20 hour trip to Sao Paulo

    In Brasil and Argentina this week and the US next, so not likely to be much to report fitness-wise :-o
    TRNovice 21 Apr 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 57

    On a business trip for two weeks, currently in NJ.

    M - Sao Paulo
    T - Sao Paulo
    W - Sao Paulo / flight to Buenos Aires
    Th - Buenos Aires
    F - Buenos Aires / Flight to New York
    S - Drive to NJ / sleep a lot
    Su - NJ

    No exercise, unless you count digesting the amount of beef that I ate in both Brasil and Argentina, plus the "aerobic" exercise of trying to breathe in the smog of Buenos Aires with asthma!
    TRNovice 29 Apr 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 58

    On second week of my Latin America / New Jersey business trip, just got back home to the UK *yawn*

    M - Work / eating too much
    T - Work / eating too much
    W - Work / eating too much
    Th - Work / eating too much
    F - Work / eating too much
    S - 2 mile walk; 1.5 hours easy (didn't have shoes) bouldering developing new crag - how cool is that!
    Su - 4 mile walk; 1 hour easy bouldering at new mini-crag

    Interesting bouldering to around V1 (we think) in trainers, puts a lot of pressure on your fingers, upper body and abs. More evidence of increased strength in the good first two fingers of my right hand, sticking some two fingered slopers long enough to pop through for the next hold .

    Also the fact that I could still just about heave my grossly heavier body - bloated by two weeks of eating in hotels and restaurants and no real exercise - upwards with a degree of ease is positive. I'm looking at it as a form of weight training!
    TRNovice 06 May 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 59

    [...] bugger all progress against [goals] in the last month!)

    On second week of my Latin America / New Jersey business trip, just got back home to the UK *yawn*

    M - Travel back from PA to London via NJ - long day
    T - Work / jet-lagged
    W - Work / jet-lagged - getting too old for International flights I guess :-o
    Th - Nowt
    F - Nowt
    S - Nowt
    Su - 18.5 km bike ride round Regent's Park

    Not sure when I am ever going to get back into the swing of things .
    TRNovice 13 May 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    In reply to biscuit:

    Week 60

    At the end of last week’s UKC Fit Club I asked when I was ever going to get back into the swing of things. I guess the answer was this week .

    Further to Week 54’s progress against MTG number 4: -

  • Target strengthening the first two fingers of my right hand to compensate for lack of tendon in the third (fingerboard stuff mostly)

    Did Pocket wall on the Cromlechs on Sunday evening pulling up with just the first two fingers of my right hand in the pocket – basically got tired of trying to apply technique and failing, so just cranked .

    M - 2 hours bouldering at The Arch – very poor session, didn’t even get anything above V1, can’t recall ever climbing worse indoors in the last two years
    T - Rest
    W - 20km bike ride
    Th - 7km bike ride / 3 hours bouldering at The Arch, what a difference a few days makes! Did all of the problems that I failed on the Monday, including two V4s and just failed a third. Began to feel that it was coming back a bit.
    F - Drove to North Wales
    S - I’m claiming a 2 hour walk-in/out to bouldering as exercise, so there! Plus 5 hours bouldering at Cwm Dyli beneath Lliwedd and 1.5 hours at the RACs. Problems up to V3. Got a V3 at the RAC's that I couldn't do the first move on last time I was there .
    Su - Brief visit to the Slate Quarries – onsighted Petit Pois F6a. Was a bit of a cauldron in Dali's Hole, with the prospect of it getting hotter, so retired to the leafy seclusion of Clogwyn y Bustach. Tried Fagin (V5/6) a few times, could pull on, but do little else, more work required. Hid from the thunderstorms under the overhang for a few hours. 1.5 hours at a deserted Cromlechs at around 8pm, problems up to V3 (got Pocket Wall, another "project" bites the dust).
  • TRNovice 20 May 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 61

    [As per last week] Apologies for being late – in N Wales Sun / Mon, just back

    Not the most glowing of weekends in N Wales, no head for leading on Sunday morning (too much red wine possibly), thereafter mostly combined trad-length walk-ins with relatively easy bouldering and repeated failures of my current bête noire V3.

    M - North Wales was too hot for climbing (at least for the likes of me), so headed to Cae Du in the hopes of a sea breeze and cooler temps, both sadly delusional. Dodged the sun and thousands of biting flies, did a bit of paddling, complained about the pebble-level being 2m lower than before and – in between these more profitable activities – tried a long, pumpy V3 traverse lots and lots, with little success. Drove back to London tired after three days out.
    T - Rest
    W - Rest
    Th - 3 hours bouldering at The Arch – made progress on a V6 project (if getting the third hold can be counted as progress), generally feeling rather knackered.
    F - Rest
    S - Drove to North Wales mid-day (deferred from Friday evening due to dodgy – and accurate – forecast. Managed to get a break in the rain to pitch the tent.
    Su - Brief (hung-over) visit to the Slate Quarries – looked at Goose Creature and felt rather scared of the [in other circumstances] easy climbing to the first bolt. Made rather a meal of (eventually) onsighting an alleged F5 “warm-up” on the slab above and decided that it was not a leading day. Decamped to the Casseg Boulders near Bethesda. Headpointed the Casseg River crossing (at least E7) and did some easy problems. Some further post-meal bouldering at the Plas y Brenin boulders up to V3 (flashed) and the RACs - failed Frontside Traverse (V3) yet again!!!

    Getting rather discombobulated by having weekends extending into Monday on successive weeks and having to report the following time round – it feels a bit like having jet-lag.

    Anyway on the positive side, got a bit of easy mileage in, flashed a V3 (which I haven’t done too often before) and am re-familiarising myself with proper rock after a winter of indoors and Grit. Just hope that this is leading somewhere.
    TRNovice 20 May 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Oooops: -

    M - Should have included 1.5 hours failing Frontside Traverse (V3) at the RACs before heading to Cae Du, which rather better explains my Su comment :-o
    TRNovice 25 May 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 62

    No progress on goals, but beginning to feel that some strength is coming back after the lay-off. Have some mileage both outdoors and in recently, which can’t be bad. Did some cycle commuting, but rather limited by having to take the car in to the garage (near work) for a tune-up.

    I quite like this strategy of getting two North Wales Mondays climbing in before the inevitable Bank Holiday crowds and even more inevitable Bank Holiday weather!.

    M - North Wales. Spotted to V5/6, which is a step up for me . Did a lot of walking. Failed Frontside Traverse several more times – I must be developing negative engrams for it by now!
    T - Rest.
    W - 11km bike ride.
    Th - 11km bike ride / 3 hours bouldering at The Arch up to V4.
    F - Rest.
    S - 4 hours bouldering at The Arch up to V4. Made progress on V5 that I was nowhere close to last week. / 11km bike ride.
    Su - 23 km bike ride.

    Rather strangely not in N Wales this weekend, though from the sounds of the weather maybe no bad thing. Was thinking of popping up to The Peak today, but again seemed rather speculative. Nice to not be on the motorway at the weekend for a change.
    TRNovice 01 Jun 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:


    Week 63

    Slow week, a lot of other stuff going on, plus had a bit of a cold or something like that towards the end of the week and thus rather tired.

    M – Rest
    T – 4 hours bouldering at The Arch; problems up to V4, continued progress on V5 project.
    W – Rest
    Th – Rest
    F – Rest
    S – Rest
    Su – 3 hours bouldering at The Arch; up to V4, more progress on my V5 project, but sadly not enough to get it.

    Need to get back in the swing of things if I am going to tick any of my goals during a week in N Wales later in the month.
    TRNovice 09 Jun 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 64

    Another slow week for one reason or another *sigh*

    Beautiful weather in Devon however, one cloud-burst on the way down on Saturday, then nothing but blue skies for the rest of the time .

    M – Nowt
    T – Nowt
    W – Nowt
    Th – 4 hour bouldering at The Arch; up to V4 – not the best of sessions
    F – Nowt
    S – Drove to Dartmoor; 4 hours bouldering at Bonehill Tor, problems up to V3. It’s granite, but not as we know it!!!
    Su – 7.5 hours bouldering at Bonehill Tor and Honeybag Tor, problems up to V1; twisted my ankle in a short fall which stopped me wanting to do anything too hard for fear of a) it hurting and b) probably making it worse. Oh, well it was nice weather to be out.

    Interesting bouldering in Dartmoor, I have no skin whatsoever now. I’m used to granite with patina and edges, not something like grit that has been put in a deepfreeze and then pebble-dashed with feldspar! Might take a few more visits to get the hang of it.
    Wilbur 09 Jun 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Sunny on Dartmoor? no, no, no.. surely not?!

    Bonehill's ace innit?

    On my only visit i got thrashed by all the V3s but nearly got a V5 that this local chap showed me. Managed to gouge an impressive bit of skin off a razor-sharp crystal too which is a good effort for me as my skin's pretty ok even in mad for it font sessions..!
    Jenn 09 Jun 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    Bonehill is great! Ugh, I know what you mean about the V3’s, but what I'm really annoyed about is the Rippled Wall. Kept falling off the penultimate move - arghhh!! I will be back
    TRNovice 09 Jun 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    Blue skies only with little bits of wispy high-level clouds, picture-postcard weather.

    Several of my fingers have rather impressive scores down them created by failing to hold "slopers" consisting of crystals. It looks like I have been in some self-harm cult. Was beginning to ooze plasma through my finger tips as well, which is not quite as sticky as you might think (maybe I should have let it almost dry and then try some problems).

    I also look like the Hound of the Baskervilles took a swipe at me with some rather interesting scrapes down the front of my chest. No idea how I did this specifically, but must have been one of my various attempts at topping out; each more inelegant that the previous :-o.

    Great place though I agree, and very different
    Wilbur 09 Jun 2008
    hmmm - i can see that the belly-flop top-out would be a definite no no!
    TRNovice 09 Jun 2008
    In reply to Wilbur:

    It left me feeling that I needed some topping out lessons - maybe a return to Font for a bit is what the Dr ordered?
    TRNovice 15 Jun 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 65

    Sadly didn’t do much as both climbing and cycling was rather ruled out by the ankle I twisted on Dartmoor the previous weekend. Lots of icing however!!!

    M – Swollen ankle
    T – Swollen ankle
    W – Swollen ankle
    Th – 3 hours bouldering at The Arch; up to V4 [but a bit misleading as I mostly did a) V0-V2s, that I could then down-climb, b) the first two-three moves of harder stuff, that I could then step off of, c) one V4, that I have so wired I could probably climb it blindfold].
    F – Swollen ankle
    S – Drove to The Peak, did some wandering around Burbage did some spotting. Tried at few problems above the ultra-flat landings at the Trackside boulder up to Font 6a (repeat), with just a few winces.
    Su – 5-6 hours at a rather deserted Stanage Plantation, mostly spotting, but one V1 on the Pebble Arête boulder, which felt a lot higher with a dodgy ankle (to say nothing of the down-climb!). Also managed to do the first couple of moves on a Font 6b that I couldn’t pull on to last time I tried, but didn’t feel safe pushing up any higher.

    A bit annoying to pick up an injury with a week in North Wales coming up next weekend, but just one of those things I guess. Managed to get through a weekend of boulder hopping without aggravating it too much (fingers crossed).
    TRNovice 29 Jun 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Apologies have been away in North Wales, so weeks 66 and 67 together.

    Week 66

    A bit of a reaction in my twisted ankle from a weekend in the Peak, so left it well alone for a few days and no cycling.

    M – Nowt
    T – Nowt
    W – 4 hours bouldering at The Arch. First proper session since injuring my ankle (i.e. took falls rather than down-climbing). Nothing stellar, but no major reaction from the crook joint, which was encouraging.
    Th – Nowt
    F – Packing
    S – Drove to North Wales, for a weeks break.
    Su – 12km bike ride on easy trails around Llyn Pardarn and Llanberis. No reaction from ankle, save a little stiffness.

    So all-in-all horribly set-up for a week in Wales given only one (rather gentle) indoor session and one repeated outdoor problem in the preceding two weeks – oh well .


    Week 67

    The second wettest week I have spent in North Wales, with probably the two single worst days of rain. The pass was wet* most days and the outlook too unsettled for any mountain multi-pitch on most days. Bouldering was curtailed, preparation for some harder trad was curtailed, even MTBing was curtailed on two days. Rather difficult to build any momentum for anything harder, either duration or difficulty. So a bit of an unsatisfactory time. Nevertheless, got to try the bikes off-road for the first time and got some low-grade mileage in here and there between the rain. Also bouldered at Llandudno for the first time, which was interesting. Could have been worse I guess.

    * The above description may be something of an understatement.

    MDry!!!!! 8 hours bouldering on the South side of the Llanberis pass – alleged warm-up day, but actually the only day that was not rain-interrupted in the whole trip. Problems up to a stratospheric V1 :-o.
    TDry at first. One sport climb in Dali’s hole, geared-up for some trad and the rain started. Retreated to the Braichmelyn boulder in Bethesda (which we took an hour to find) for a couple of problems, before being beaten back by kamikaze midges. Later, a few problems on the (less midgey) Climber’s Club boulders and then Pont y Gromlech in Dyffryn Peris. Routes to F5+, Problems up to V2.
    WRain and low cloud in Llanberis. 10km bike ride on one of the MTB circuits in Beddgelert Forest – got my first off-road puncture, that’ll teach me to use hybrid road-tyres on loose rock!!! At least it was only half-a-mile from the end rather than in the back-of-beyond.
    ThThe second flood!!! In the absence of an Ark, retreated to Llandudno, where the rain was merely torrential. Played about in Split Infinity on rock that was rather clammy from the humidity, but without managing to send anything :-o.
    FStill wet and low cloud in Llanberis, though back to more common-all-garden rain. Again beat a path for Llandudno. Here it was initially not raining so took a look at Pill Box Original, which was very damp from seepage. It started the rain again, so walked back to Split Infinity, this time at least got one problem. Went down to Angel Bay and did a couple of problems before the tide came in. Problems up to V3
    SAmazingly dry (at least to start with). Took a ticket for trying Psychotherapy in Vivian. Rather regretted doing nothing harder than V3 in the preceding few days and no trad since the end of March. Confidence was very low and head was not in the right place. Retreated to fight another day. At least I down-climbed it (cleaning gear on the way) and thus preserved the onsight! Will return with an improved attitude and a bit more mileage. Spotted up to V5/6 at Clogwyn y Bustach . However, also retwisted my ankle on a damp style, which was just what I didn’t need and ended up limping back to the car. Just to complete a stellar climbing week for me, and regardless of the renewed pain in my ankle, I threw myself several more times at my current nemesis – Front Side Traverse at the RACs – without getting it *sigh*.
    SuThe third flood!!! drove to Carreg Hylldrem in the hope of finding something dry, but decided that we might drown on the walk-in as we hadn’t brought our Scuba Diving gear, so gave it up as a bad job and drove back home.

    Had various goals rather pinned to this week, so need to do some revising, either lowering my sights, or deferring somewhat. Back to the drawing-board I guess.
    TRNovice 06 Jul 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 68

    Not too bad a week – though a bit embarrassed at my poor showing on the fingerboard on Saturday. Nice to be able to cycle reasonably freely again after my ankle problems .

    M – 18km bike ride
    T – Rest (well an 8 km walk I guess)
    W – Four hours bouldering at The Arch – good session. Felt really odd being back inside at first, but maybe some of the N Wales mileage began to tell. Sort of flashed V4 (if you discount getting the rubber of my shoe wedged in a hold on the easy initial bit first go). Made progress on some V5s that I couldn’t pull onto before. Problems up to V4.
    Th – 22km bike ride.
    F – Four hours bouldering at The Arch – not quite up to Wednesday’s session, but was very tired going into it for a number of reasons, so no high expectations. Still had fun and did a lot on the big overhangs. Problems up to V4.
    S – Rest – abortive fingerboard session - not a good idea after bouldering the previous day :-o.
    Su – 23.5 km bike ride.

    On the evidence of this week, I have lost some finger strength, so need to do something about this.
    TRNovice 13 Jul 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 69

    Not a lot of climbing this week. Strong cardio start, which rather petered out in the middle / end of week, but finished again strongly.

    M – 27.5km bike ride. 4 hours bouldering at The Arch. Tired from cycling earlier in the day and on Sunday. Still OKish session. Problems up to V4.
    T – 4 km run around Regent’s Park, tired from CV activity over the past two days. Also twinged my #$@!ing ankle again half-way round and stopped to check the damage before continuing . A bit swollen, but not too bad now, fingers crossed.
    W – Three hours bouldering at The Arch – knackered and not much progress on anything (except figuring out a particularly complex Fred V4 sit start – and then failing the top moves :-o, and getting far enough up on another V4 to be worried by the rather tenuous climbing :-o :-o). Maybe too much training this week (over-compensating for under-achieving on the recent N Wales trip). On the positive side, no real problems following my ankle twinge the previous day. Problems up to V4.
    Th – Rest – rather knackered from stepping up both cardio and bouldering. Ankle also playing up a bit .
    F – Rest
    S – Unscheduled rest for a variety of reasons
    Su – 18.5 km MTB ride round Watership Down – very muddy (verging on lakes in places) didn’t see any bunnies, nice ride anyhow .

    Hoping for some good weather on Dartmoor next weekend.
    TRNovice 20 Jul 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 70

    Continuing an upward swing with CV training, compensated by a downward swing with climbing training.

    M – 15 km bike ride (forgot water bottle, so rather cut short :-o). Surprisingly not stiff after MTBing the day before – managed to shake some of the mud off at least.
    T – 20 km bike ride. Enjoying the sun!
    W – 2 hours bouldering at The Arch. Session rather circumscribed by bringing along two right foot climbing shoes and having to use hire shoes :-o. Nevertheless, got a V4 project, not a lot to report beyond that. Problems up to V4.
    Th – 20km MTB ride at Swinley Forest – great place, will go back soon. Replaced my first punctured tube as well, only took me 30 minutes :-o.
    F – Drive to Dartmoor
    S – 8 hours bouldering / soloing at Hound Tor and Bonehill Tor. Good day with good company, trying (and sadly mostly failing) hard stuff; but some noticeable improvements in crimp strength and nice to be outside again. Problems up to V2.
    Su – Pretty knackered by the previous day and almost blown off the face of Dartmoor by the gale-force winds. Mostly wandering around Haytor and Lowman. One solo and some attempts at boulder problems at Saddle Tor.

    Good week overall, not much stellar climbing at the weekend, but then I expect Granite V4s and V5s to be hard and made some progress. Didn’t try too many easy things aside from these.
    TRNovice 27 Jul 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 71

    Nice to fit in some mid-week outdoors climbing – at least the bouldering at SSS seems to be OK.

    M – Rest (after MTBing in Bracknell and climbing in Dartmoor in the last previous four days)
    T – 4 km bike ride. 3 hours bouldering at The Arch. Quite hot temps to start, must have been really hot at the other London Walls. Got another V4 project – that leaves 3 V4 and 2 V5 projects on the list. Problems up to V4.
    W – Does belaying and spotting at The Westway for three hours count as training?
    Th – 11km bike ride. 2 hours bouldering at Harrisons Rocks – nice way to spend a summer’s evening. Problems up to Font 6a.
    F – 12km bike ride.
    S – 22km MTB ride round Firle Beacon, West Sussex – 600m total ascent. Got to try out my new tyres .
    Su – Fly to the US on business

    Bit of a come down CV wise from the previous week, but recovered with Saturday’s effort – longest MTB so far (yes I am a total novice). Will be in the US next week for work, so training will be somewhat compromised, will try to at least have a couple of runs, but it’s difficult to fit in.
    TRNovice 03 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 72

    As trailed last week, I was in the US for work most of the week. Rather helpfully the hotel I was in was being refurbished and the gym was closed. As it was 90F even in the evenings, didn’t fancy running outside much, so not a lot done in the week.

    M – Bugger all
    T – Bugger all
    W – Bugger all
    Th – Bugger all
    F – Fly back to the UK
    S – Jet-lagged
    Su – Still jet-lagged, but 3 hours bouldering at The Arch. Felt very tired / weak, managed to repeat a few problems, but not much more. Problems up to V4.

    Oh well, I guess you are meant to have rest weeks every now and again.
    TRNovice 11 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 73

    Not a lot done this week – still tired / jet-lagged from US trip.

    M – Rest
    T – Rest
    W – 13km cycle – basically just trying out new tyres.
    Th – Not a lot
    F – 3 hours bouldering at The Castle.
    S – The plan was MTBing on Sat and some Peak bouldering on Sun – the weather rather put paid to this .
    Su – 23.5km MTB ride near Welwyn Garden City. Not a strenuous trail, but fun and nice to get some CV work in. Total ascent (approx. as we skipped an optional loop due to time constraints) 350m.

    Didn’t make my aim of at least 40km cycling in the week, on top of doing virtually nothing last week due to a business trip. Need to buck my ideas up!
    ksjs 11 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice: apologies for butting in but ive just seen this thread for the first time. some thoughts:

    there are easier E2s out there (they are still E2 and just as good): SS Special, The Strand, The Thing: what are your strengths / weaknesses, whats your preferred route style / rock type?

    you really shouldnt do C Gates in 2 pitches, this should be done in 1 with the direct finish. i promise you it is THE way to do it and if its a case of waiting until youre happy to try it this way, i would wait. what about some of the Tremadog E1s: Barbarian, First Slip, Leg Slip and Grim Wall Direct? these are all multi-pitch and total classics.

    id say CTD as a 1st E3 isnt the best idea unless youre happy on boldish slate (steady and well-protected after the start though). Goose Creature is a good choice and a great route but you may feel you havent ticked a 'proper' E3 if you do this. Colossus is also bolted (do take nuts including micros though) but feels like a more meaty E3 and is totally brilliant. Plumbline at Pen Trwyn is superb and very well-protected but again it depends on what your thing is.

    no idea where youre up to with your goals so sorry if the above not of interest / no longer relevant but hope things are moving in the right direction.
    TRNovice 12 Aug 2008
    In reply to ksjs:

    Thanks for the comments - not anywhere with the goals for a variety of reasons .
    TRNovice 17 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 74

    Fairly easy week – although my ankle was tweaking running, no adverse affects afterwards which is cool.

    M – 4.5km bike ride / 3 hours bouldering at The Arch – playing on the new system board, so not sure about grades.
    T – Nowt
    W – 3 hours bouldering at The Arch – again mostly making up problems on the system board, so no real idea of grades.
    Th – 3.5km run – ankle still bothering me a bit, knackered it on the 8th of June, so two months ago now
    F – Drove down to Southern Sandstone, but deemed that the rock was still too damp to climb without damaging it, so settled for a meal at the Huntsman instead .
    S – 23.5km “MTB” ride (OK it was on a trail :-o) ride round Richmond Park – actually a surprisingly pleasant cycle, with a couple of hillyish sections. Good training option – have to see how many circuits I can do and whether I can work up to running a lap as well.
    Su – 7km cycle – does buying Dosage V at The Westway count as training?

    Pleased that the ankle sort of came through running. Didn’t hit 40km cycling again, but then didn’t go into work all week either.
    TRNovice 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    REVISED [aka down-graded] GOALS - mid-August 2008

    Short-term goals


  • Do some routes of some description
  • Maintain at least 40km of cycling per week
  • At least one run per week
  • Recommence and sustain fingerboard training
  • Get some more V3s and V4s

    Medium-term goals

  • Single pitch E2 onsight
  • E1 single pitch on something other than slate
  • Get another V5
  • Improve MTB skills
  • Run trail circuit of Richmond Park (about 12km)
  • Tall Clare 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    how come you've downgraded them?
    TRNovice 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to Tall Clare:

    A bout of realism?
    Tall Clare 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    hee hee, fair enough!
    TRNovice 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to Tall Clare:

    Things have not gone too smoothly from a climbing perspective this year, having STGs that you don't seem to have much change of achieving in the short term began to seem a bit silly and actually demotivating :-o.
    ksjs 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice: have you ever heard of / thought of pyramids? i got the idea from The Self-Coached Climber
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Self-Coached-Climber-Movement-Training-Performance/dp/0811733394/ref=sr_1_1?...
    its really simple: you write a pyramid of routes or problems starting at a base level, working up towards your goal. the idea is that you build / increase your 'portfolio' of experience and gain confidence as you go. it might sound a bit naff but its really simple and ive found it very motivational (ideally you should stick the pyramid up wherever youll see it daily). i have a trad pyramid, a bouldering pyramid and a sport pyramid (the trad one is though pretty flat and i think, realistically, the pyramid concept applies to bouldering and sport more than trad as there isnt the mental / risk aspect in these). your current bouldering pyramid might look like this (apologies for the asterisks but i couldnt get the pyramid look without these)

    ********V5
    ***V4**V4**V4
    V3*V3*V3*V3*V3

    by the way, the book is worth getting for more than the pyramid explanation - its very rounded in that it looks not just at the physical aspects of training but gives equal importance to movement elements.
    TRNovice 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to ksjs:

    Thanks for the advice - used to do bouldering sessions based on pyramids, but maybe in a different sense to what you suggest. Haven't done any dedicated training in a long time unfortunately.
    ksjs 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice: thats the thing, its not strictly speaking training as youre simply doing routes or problems. the difference is that they are at a certain grade that, when complete, should give you the confidence / knowledge / physical gain to successfully work through the next level in the pyramid. even if you set the pyramid lower eg 5 x V1, 4 x V2, 3 x V3 and 1 x V4 it can be very satisfying knowing that youre working towards something and that each tick, no matter how easy, is part of a process.
    TRNovice 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to ksjs:

    Was unsure as to whether you meant as training (e.g. indoors) or a way to structure outdoor sessions as well. Have done the former, back when I used to train a bit.
    ksjs 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice: no, proper stuff outdoors - you cant lose!
    TRNovice 18 Aug 2008
    In reply to ksjs:

    I'm sure I can figure out a way ;-).
    TRNovice 26 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 75

    Revised [aka down-graded] goals as per http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=280349&v=1#x4672268

    Away for much of the week, but not a lot achieved due to the rather up and down weather and various other factors. On the plus side, finally climbed in the Lakes and scoped out a few future venues for bouldering, trad and MTBing.

    M - 3 hours bouldering at The Arch - one of my better recent sessions, flashed one V4 and should have flashed a second – progress (albeit limited) on another V5 – and got a lowly V3 that has been annoying the hell out of me for forever . Problems up to V4.
    T – Drive to Flintshire
    W – Plan A of doing a short MTB thwarted by forgetting clipless shoes :-o. Instead spend time buying some new (winter) shoes and looking at MTBs I can’t afford at the Specialized Concept Store in Chester. Drive to the Lakes.
    Th – Rainy start to day, so drive to Keswick and purchase Dow, Duddon Valley & Slate guide. Sun comes out so a few hours failing wettish problems at the Langdale boulders.Problems to V1.
    F – First MP for over a year – Thomas (S) at Wallowbarrow Crag – lovely walk-in from camp-site and lovely climb, eventually remembered all that rope work nonsense :-o.
    S – Drove to St. Bees. Rather freaked-out by almost paragliding to the bottom using a bouldering mat as a sail in very gusty conditions. The stiff breeze persisted at sea level, sending spray and foam everywhere. The crux of most problems was ensuring that the mat didn’t blow away! Must go back on a nicer day. Problems up to V1.
    Su – After several truly torrential downpours, decide to head home, but of course the sun comes out while having brunch. Just enough to tempt me back to Stonestar Crag. Columbia (E1) looks dryish, so hack up and give it a go. After going off-route (and onto an adjacent E2) twice, eventually get onto the slab, only to find the key crack glistening with green/black slime. Decide the percentage choice is to try it another day and successfully down-climb without resting on the gear. Nice to back-off for reasons other than being pumped stupid or scared stupid for a change . In retrospect the right decision, will be back to give it another go.

    An odd week – 40km goal totally flouted, due to lack of shoes and weather (either way too bad to MTB or way to good not to be climbing). Actually did (or attempted) some routes, which was nice. No run as not at home (lots of walking however). No training as away. No hard bouldering. Tried an E1 on something other than slate and made pleasing progress, being defeated by conditions rather than an inability to do the moves.
    TRNovice 31 Aug 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 76

    A bit of an up-and-down week. Had planned a decent MTB today to finish with more of a CV high, but not to be for a variety of reasons.

    M - 12km “recovery” MTB (trail) ride round Richmond Park, stretching legs after drive back from The Lakes. 3 hours of bike maintenance (which must surely count for something right?) after the ill-affects of Cumbrian downpours.
    T – Rest
    W – 3 hours of bouldering at The Arch. Beginning to get some strength back, just need to convince myself that this is the case and stop matching when I have no need to do so! Problems up to V4.
    Th – 4km bike ride, purely to try out new front shock and its impact (if any) on steering.
    F – 24km bike ride. 3 hours bouldering at The Arch. Not the greatest of sessions (maybe hampered by 1.5 pints of beer at lunch time. Problems up to V4.
    S – Wedding
    Su – Bugger all

    Managed my 40km goal (precisely) without actually cycling very much, sadly not a lot more to report.
    TRNovice 07 Sep 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 77

    Started very strongly and then rather wilted – picked up an annoying cold at the end of the week, which proved to be debilitating enough for the weekend to be consumed by sleeping, sniffling. lounging and playing Lego Indiana Jones.

    M a) - 28 km bike ride. As part of this, I managed five circuits of Regent’s Park (22.5 km) in under 55 minutes, which was a sort of mini-goal. However, I didn’t expect to achieve it with knobbly 54mm MTB tyres on and with one circuit with the lock-out off to see what difference it made (plus 31 seconds!!!). Maybe no great shakes for most people, but I was pleased .
    M b) - As an experiment, tried to see how many V4s I could climb at The Arch in an evening. Rather annoyingly ended up with 9 (10 would have been nice), which included 4 new ones and 5 repeats. Millimetres off of the 10th, but fingers were too tired on the final crimp and unpeeled. That now leaves me with only 5 V4s in the place that I can’t climb (two of which I have almost sent, three of which I need to work on more). Significant progress on a lengthy V5 as well, one that I couldn’t do the any of the first few sections (let alone link them) last time I tried; can now link the first two-thirds (if with some effort!). [9] Problems up to V4.
    T – 24 km MTB (trail) ride round Richmond Park. 40km target hit in two days – yay!!!
    W a) – 12 km MTB (trail) ride round Richmond Park – “recovery” ride with my middle son.
    W b) – 7 km walk.
    Th – 2.5 hours bouldering at The Arch. Pretty tired, maybe from the upped cardio, or from Monday’s session (or both). Still, further progress on the V5 and five V4s sent. Still have an extremely annoying V3 that keeps spitting me off . [5] Problems up to V4.
    F – 22 km bike commute.
    S – Ill / Rest
    Su – Ill / Rest

    Total cycling: 86 km
    Total running: 0 km

    Pleasing progress overall – got some indoor V4s that had previously eluded me and repeating others felt significantly easier, so some strength continuing to come back. After only a few weeks of upped cardio (mostly more cycling), I’m now down to 12 stone (76 kg). Wasn’t that long ago that I was well over 13.5 stones (86 kg).
    TRNovice 14 Sep 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 78

    Bad week exercise-wise, that ended up much better in the last three days. Felt rubbish most of the week and was off work, so good to at least get some things done on Friday – Sunday.

    M – 3 hours bouldering at The Arch. Spent the weekend with a debilitating cold sleeping and lounging, so no great expectations for the session. Very tired at the start, warm-ups felt like full-on problems. However somehow managed to turn into a decent session. Flashed three V3s, got two new V4s, one of which was hardish, and repeated three others. Ended up being no worse on my V5 project as well. In general being able to climb semi-decently when knackered and still a bit ill is progress I guess . 2 x V3, 2 x V3*, 5 x V4 .
    T – Ill – cold returned with something of a vengeance
    W – Ill
    Th – Ill.
    F – 3 hours bouldering at The Arch. Not expecting much after being ill all week, ended up a pretty decent session, however. But beasted my myself too much on multiple attempts at two V5s on the reset "big overhang" at the beginning to be much good later on. 4 x V4
    S – 2 hours bouldering at The Arch, allegedly spotting my middle son, but managed to squeeze in some problems anyway. Not sure whether an hour’s football with same son or an hour’s baseball pitching with the eldest count as exercise or not! 2 x V3, 6 x V4
    Su – 20km MTB ride round Swinley Forest. Good mixture of DT and ST, with some steep ascents and descents on both (for me at least). Given that most of the week had been washed out by illness, happy with not dying on any of the uphill bits (and with being in a semi-respectable gear on all bar the last couple). New shock, much, much better over tree roots etc., so pretty happy about that.

    Hopefully back to some more kms cycling next week and at least one run. Would be nice if the improved weather lasted long enough to get some outdoor climbing in as well .

    Cycling

    Total road: 0
    Total MTB: 20 km
    Total cycling: 20 km

    Off work sick / working half-days at home all week, so I’m allowed to miss the 40km minimum IMO

    Other CV training

    Total running: 0 km

    Same excuse of illness.

    Wall sessions (3)

    Total V3s: 5
    Total V4s: 15
    Total V5s: 0

    Note: * = Flashed
    TRNovice 21 Sep 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 79

    Rubbish week after either a recurrence of what I had last week, or catching something new . Spent all week off work (save a trip to sunny Heathrow to present at a seminar that I made it though on caffeine and adrenaline), or working intermittently from home.

    M – Ill
    T – Ill
    W – Seminar / Ill
    Th – Ill.
    F – Ill
    S – A few hours failing problems at Eridge Rocks and High Rocks. Several hours getting there and back.
    Su – Two hours bouldering at Shoreditch Park. According to other posts got what has been reported as a V2 (concur with the grade) and a V5 (actually at most V3 or very easy V4). A bit more time at the other Hackney boulder (near Homerton) was cut short by spraining my right ankle. I sprained the left several weeks ago and was trying (too successfully) to land in a way that protected it and instead took the full fall on a semi-rigid right leg – currently icing .

    Not a lot of point in recording the following; save perhaps for motivation to do better in future (swollen ankle allowing).

    Cycling

    Total road: 0
    Total MTB: km
    Total cycling: 0 km

    Missed my 40km minimum again *sigh*

    Other CV training

    Total running: 0 km

    Same excuse of illness.

    Wall sessions (0)

    Total V3s: 0
    Total V4s: 0
    Total V5s: 0

    Note: * = Flashed
    Wrongfoot22 Sep 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    I know this is now performance art, but you know how the fit club was started because the training diary wasn't available?

    And you started this because you didn't want to look through everyone else's posts on the fit club thread?

    Well there's this diary page now that Nick spent ages sorting out and it might hurt his feelings a bit if you don't use it now it's there?
    TRNovice 22 Sep 2008
    In reply to Wrongfoot:

    I'm worried about hurting your feelings and so will refrain from replying further, but thanks for thinking of me.
    Wrongfoot22 Sep 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Ah hell, I was hoping you'd bite!
    TRNovice 22 Sep 2008
    In reply to Wrongfoot:

    I'm very well behaved as a rule, unless it involves Font vs V-Grades.
    TRNovice 28 Sep 2008
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Week 80

    As per Week 79 – sprained my right ankle bouldering a week ago, so not a lot to report .

    M – Nowt
    T – Nowt
    W – Drove to N Wales
    Th – Wandered around a lot of hills and spotted to V6.
    F – Repeated a V3 traverse. Wandered round some more hills.
    S – Spotted to V4 flashed. Tried a bit of bouldering and further aggravated the ankle . More hill wandering. Drove back home.
    Su – Wandered round Hampstead Heath for a few hours.

    Ankle is still sore and swollen again – I guess I need to let it rest and heal. Fingerboard sessions are as much as I can countenance this week, feeling a bit sorry for my self, though it could be worse, I could be climbingpixie!

    Cycling

    Total road: 0 km
    Total MTB: 0 km
    Total cycling: 0 km

    *sigh*

    Other CV training

    Total running: 0 km

    *double sigh*

    Wall sessions (0)

    Total V3s: 0
    Total V4s: 0
    Total V5s: 0

    *triple sigh*

    Note: * = Flashed

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