/ UKC fit club 290

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Keendan - on 07 Oct 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (289) thread:
Pebbles – More progress! Have a great time getting on 6bs at Kalymnos
Si dH – Good effort on the green circuit at the Station. About fingerboard periodisation I’m the wrong person to ask I’m afraid. I would be tempted to train all three every session. I don’t honestly think it will hold back your improvement on all three. Only thing I’d do is maybe not train pockets on consecutive days as I feel it is the tendons in the finger that need to recover.
Biscuit –You managed to fit a lot in a week. Great to hear that you need to make your board steeper
JimmyKay – Positive and varied week
Sankey – Good week
AJM – Sounds fun outdoors even you didn’t quite get the chance to push it.
Eagle River – Shame about the cold. Have a great time at Spain
Ally Smith – Not bad for first indoor routes in 6 months!
Steve John B – Lots of running there. Good luck with your target weight.
Grubes – Come on mate, let’s try hard/eat well again
Joughton – How did the comp go??
NMN – Good week
Mrchewey – Sounds like a good session, hope to see more like it. Back on the healthy eating I hope!
Annak – Welcome! Not bad for your first week posting. Good variety.
IainRUK – Awesome to read. Makes me think I could probably run a bit more without the excuse of overtraining.
Nomics4Sale – Don’t beat yourself up, just keep getting on 6c/7as
JKarran – Good to see you back. Looking forward to seeing you achieve your goals
Mattrm – Nice to see a bit of everything in one week
Oddtoast – Yep, well done not hiding away. You can still run as well as other things in the rain!
Alex@home – Welcome. Great to see you set out some goals and show a bit of drive from the outset. If you’ve mostly done trad, I’m sure a focus on sport will improve your trad grade in the long term.
Pork Pie Girl – Great week, doing something every day
Kevster – Sounds encouraging this week. Gad you feel confident on E2/3, hang on to that confidence and build on it each time you climb!
Richard Popp – Scary times, good to hear it’s ok. Smash out those last circuit sessions before Kaly!
Leon – Shame about the slack Monday, but the route reading stuff is at least as useful as physical training.
Rollo – nice variety
Ian Bell – Ouch Ian, bad news twice. My thoughts are with your friend.
Maria85 – I like your go for it attitude. Don’t worry too much about matching up to your goals. Build on your improvements and falling confidence. Enjoy the job and rest before hitting it hard again!
Ali – Wow, what a great trip. Congrats on your 6c onsights and 7a/+s. I love how the last day of the trip syndrome brings out something good!
Keendan - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

First week of term, new beginnings. Tried to "start as I mean to go on"

M-3.5mile run. Took a novice bouldering, not much of a session for me.
T-4 x 4 circuit board, but overestimated my ability and failed to complete, still a good session. (I feel that as long as you get hopelessly pumped you can't go far wrong!)
W-Press ups. Good bouldering session to maintain strength, followed by pull ups on small campus rung, then on jugs
T-10 x 120m hill sprints. I rarely do such short intervals, but it was quite fun and I felt it the next day.
F-2.8 mile run. 4 x 4 session but slightly run down and ill from the week.
S-First ever time at Stoney Middleton. Fell off Banana crack but managed to redeem myself on Scoop Wall. I was immediately pumped on every route after the busy week!

My Omron Fat Scales arrived this week (bought the ones Biscuit recommended from Amazon).

I was a bit disappointed with a reading of 14% this morning, but I hope to be moving in the right direction.

I've been generally successful on my first week (this term) of Intermittent Fasting. Basically I try not to eat before 12 each day, and most days do some form of exercise before my first meal.

I'm eating whole foods, high protein and low carbs (but not too low as that has been disastrous for me in the past)
JayK - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan. Good effort on Scoop Wall. I thought that was one of the most intimidating routes I've ever been on. I'd been climbing for less than a year when I got on it though. I took a big whipper from the top crux onto the peg.

M- Usual Monday long run. 12K - 45:11
T- Nothing
W- Brat training. 4x1K ~3:40Km. With by 15sec recov into short hill lap with steps. Felt good despite a shit day at work.
T- Bouldering at boulder Central. Didn't get too much done. Up to about v7. No training.
F- Nothing.
S- Stanage. Beautiful weather. Spent the morning bouldering. Both Pebble aretes. Couple of laps on green traverse. Glass Hour and Help the Young - both great problems. Spent the afternoon on trad. Moribund, Black Hawk Bastion, Tippler Direct, Yosemite Wall and Kirkus' Corner. I lead them all apart from Moribund.
S- Going to go for either a run or a swim today. Probably the former. Will update with time/distance later.
Kevster - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan,

Very little this week.
Set for a couple of days and climbed the new routes but that's it, need to get out more!

This coming weekend, have a caravan booked at Torquay. Which should be good. I have a couple of spare spaces in the van, if anyone here wants to fill them give me a mail.

JBO on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Don't worry about Banana Crack, you need to get used to Stoney polish for that to feel like an actual E1, good effort on Scoop Wall though, it's a brilliant route.

I've been pretty busy all week, and I had the comp yesterday so I figured I'd just chill all week, so this is basically just a comp report.

We had two qualifying routes, with the top 6 from the 20 competitors in my category going into the final. The first route looked really thin, technical and crimpy up to a big horizontal roof with a hard pull round it. I'd seen 14 people do it before me and only two top it so I was a little nervous but pleased that I had the opportunity to get ahead. I climbed pretty quickly through the steep lower section then rested in the groove for a while, before sketching up the rest of the vertical section nearly slipping off everything. Rested beneath the roof, the swung around for a while getting pumped before dragging myself over the lip. The rope drag was ridiculous so clipping was hard, then I popped for the second to last hold which was way worse than I expected and fell off. I was a bit frustrated but placed 6th on that route so the only people who beat me were British Team members.

The second route was much different, on the arete of really steep wall, so very pumpy and powerful. I got really psyched and climbed really quickly and confidently, before I realised I'd climbed too far above a clip to be able to reach down. I felt totally stupid for having climbed past it without noticing, and I slipped off trying to downclimb to it, so I placed 12th on that route. The frustrating thing was I didn't feel pumped at that point so I felt as though I could've gone much further.

I ended up placing 9th, just half a point behind 8th and one point behind 7th, which was a bit gutting thinking about that second route when I could have gone so much further. Anyway it was still a good comp and I was in the younger half of the category so it should be easier next year! I also learnt a lot, both from watching other competitors and from my mistakes, so I'll keep improving as I get more experience.

Cheers, Jake
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Welcome to my world fatty ;0)Obsession is just round the corner.

I've just bought a set for my brother's birthday as well. He wanted some i didn't get him them as a hint.

Try the American Navy Seal fat test as well. Surprisingly accurate. Just google it.

Dave Mac recommends 3 hrs running up the steepest mountains in Glen Coe before breakfast. But then again he is a nutter.

I've found that running before breakfast makes a difference in my % readings for sure.
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

Welcome to the newbies and returnees :0)

Last weeks targets:
3 x Board - pinch rails 2 DONE
3 x Board - rungs 2 DONE
1 x Repeaters - intermediate BM workout followed by 2 sets of pinch repeaters on wood block DONE X4 THIS HAS BECOME MY WARM UP BEFORE BOARD SESSION SO DONE LOTS
2 x Max pinches - wood block with 18kg DONE
4 x core (125 reps)DONE
2 x complexes DONE 1
? x run. Going to try every day NOT DONE, HAD FUNNY KNEE

Warm ups now consist of 20 press ups/10 pull ups done twice and BM intermediate workout ( 1 set ) and 2 sets of repeater pinches with battery. Good news is all my hangs are now on the bottom rung. Feels good to move mid 2 and front 2 onto the bottom.

Had a funny feeling in my knee since Monday's run. Like it needs to 'click' when i straighten it. Felt a bit unstable so i stopped running and it feels OK now.

M - 13.3% Run 30 min.warm up. Rungs on board. 60s on 20s off x4. 2 sets done. Completed.Core

T - 12.6% Warm up. Max pinches 2 sets. Pinches on board. 60s on 20s off x4. 2 sets. Completed.

W - 13.7% Warm up. Max pinches 2 sets. Rungs on board. 60s on 20s off x4. 2 sets. Completed.Core

T - 12.5% Sore elbows. Not been doing my rehab. Naughty boy. Very tired after being woken up many times by poorly daughter who ended up in my bed, so no sleep for me.

F - 11.8% Elbows still sore. Rehab weights done 3 times. Warm up.Max pinches 2 sets. Repeaters type exercises on pinch block as i can do them straight armed so no elbow problems.Core.Complexes. Stretching.

S - 12.3% Unexpected afternoon drinking session turned into and evening drinking session and has turned into a hangover today. Oops !

S - 12.4% Once i am feeling better i am going to steepen my board and do: warm up. Pinches on board. core. elbow rehab exercises.May run later too.

So progress has been made but my resolve fell away a bit towards the end of the week. Pleased to have reduced BF with not much running and everything needs moving up a notch really. Board needs to be steeper. I left it this week just to consolidate. I can now do PE type work with the car battery when 2 weeks ago i could only do max strength work with that weight and i have moved onto smaller rungs on the BM.

I have never 'felt' fitter but it remains to be seen how it transfers to rock. My wife gets back Tuesday night so i then have a few days where i can go out to play with Eagle River before i have to get back to work. Then Grubes is coming over to Chorro and after that i have a few days climbing on the Costa Blanca. Looking at lots of mileage and strengthening my head and keeping up with the training in between.

The sun is shining and all is looking good.
Keendan - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Interestingly I emailed Dave Mac this week asking his view on fasted runs vs HIIT. He said both were good and very cleverly pointed me in the direction of "Racing Weight" which he sells.

Keendan - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Ah, must be frustrating to fall off downclimbing. Still, great effort. You'll come back in 12 months and crush it!
Si dH - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Not much for me this week, been suffering from a cold still although think I'm now virtually better.

STG (this month): aim to flash F6c+ or harder every day 'on' in Kalymnos, and onsight at least 1 F7a.
MTG (this winter through to March):
- tick at least 10 Ft7s, including at least one Ft7b, before Font
- tick Ft7a every day 'on' in Font
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013

Ultimately what this comes down to is a re-focussing of my improvement targets away form sport and towards bouldering and trad.

I've put together a training plan for my strength training after Kalymnos. Basically my weekly plan is as follows (starting from the day after boudlering outside):
Day 1 - core session (while tips recover!)
Day 2 - bouldering at wall (with some ancap to finish)
Day 3 - fingerboard session
Day 4 - bouldering at wall (with some ancap/aerocap to finish)
Day 5 - fingerboard session
Day 6 - fingerboard session (in morning to maximise rest before next day outside)

This week:

M: nothing
T: nothing
W: nothing
T: bouldering at Alter Rock on the first winter bouldering league set. Still feeling my cold but was feeling pretty strong and flashed 9 of the problems, got another 2 quickly. Pretty happy with this. Will go back to try and work the harder ones.
F: nothing
S: Horseshoe with Rich Popp (Cheedale was wet). Remembered how bad I am at sport climbing on non-steep ground, especially when its run out, and completely psyched myself out of a 6c that I tried to onsight (found it scarier than Foil or Robert Brown). Did a 6a+, 6b and 6b+.
S: nothing

Still a bit under the weather but this weekend have felt mostly back to normal. Going to try to get to Stoke at least once this week and next.
mrchewy - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: So the weightloss get's serious with new scales and lots of running... not a moment too soon. 14% is seriously fat!

Weight 78.3kg Lightest I've been in FIFTEEN year!
Bodyfat 24.7%

Decided to take my weight on a Fri morning rather than Sunday as the weekend's activities and diet are so variable compared to the weeks. Should give me a better idea of were I am. Lighter this morning than Friday but I'm reporting Friday's. Diet has been better again this week and the fridge is full of salad after today's shop.

M - Rest
T - Boulder room. Good session again but didn't make it up the V2 on the 45deg overhang as had been working another V2 for a bit too long and was overly tired. Breezed the V1s that I managed last week.
W - Squats and core.
T - Did it! First problem completed on the 45deg overhang. Got a bit nervy at the top, so dropped off rather than climbing back down. Worked the other two V2s and a V3 but not near finishing them yet. Went home smiling.
F - Worked very late.
S - Tryfan North Ridge with some newbie scramblers. Cracking weather and then some grub in the Tyn e Coed. 7hrs driving too, followed by a stomp at a goth night.
S - Nothing yet but some squats etc later and try some yoga core stuff that's been recommended.

The leading 6a anytime soon is looking unlikely as I'm just not getting in the main room but generally I'm feeling stronger. Need to add some 4x4s again to keep the stamina there but don't feel like I have to rush a problem lately, even on the 45deg V2 I managed to stop after the crux and chalk up before carrying on.
Knee has been sore this week, hence no running but I think that may be down to the drop knees on the overhangs. Ho hum.
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Great day out on Sat and impressive 12k time.
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Joughton:

I somehow missed your post Jake. It must be disappointing to make such a 'rookie' error but it sounds like a brilliant performance.

I'm sure you'll smash it next year.
NMN - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

I rested wed and thur because I had some muscle pain which wasn't getting any better. A lower mileage week due to going to Leeds for the weekend.

I really struggled with Racing Weight.
I am reading Sports Nutrition by Anita Bean at the moment and finding it much better and easier to read.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)

M - 4.01m treadmill, 1.7%.
T - 4.53m road run, 85ft.
W - rest.
T - rest.
F - 6.53m trail run, 709ft.
S - Nomeansno gig in Leeds - absolutely brilliant.
S - Hangover.
Eagle River - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan,

I'm in Spain now and the weather is glorious. Looking forward to Loja tomorrow.

This week I only did a couple of indoor sessions:

Tues: Indoor bouldering, planned to take it easy but that never pans out. Tried a few v7s but didn't find one I could do but ticked a V6/7 after some work.

Fri: Tired indoor routes, really paranoid about potentially injuring myself before the Spain trip so took it really easy. Some really nice routes at 6c/7a at stockport at the moment if anyone is interested.

Show me the tufas!
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

It'll be Wednesday before i can get out. Have you got any planned rest days?

I guess you're going to climb Mon & Tue so will you be after a rest on Wed ? No problems if you are of course i'll save my brownie points up for later in the week ?

Weather's just about perfect isn't it ? Take a jumper though if there's any wind Loja can get cold.
Eagle River - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit:

We'll see how it goes, might do Loja tomorrow, Easier day Tues (possibly at your local crag) then back to Loja on Wed. I"ll let you know for sure on Tues.

In a fit of paranoia I brought my down jacket. Probably don't need it given it's 28deg in the shade....
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Always best to be prepared :0)

Have fun.
Steve John B - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel.

M - rest (planned rest day). hamstrings a bit stiff
T - swimming lesson #3
W - 60 min road run inc 500' hill
T - rest. legs a bit sore
F - rest – knacked some groin/inner thigh type muscle
S - rest
S - 30 mins easy turbo

weight 175lb - was 182lb end aug - target 168lb by mid-dec

Bit annoyed, overdid it on Wednesday (I think it was running downhill that was the problem). Need to take it steady. No swimming this coming week due to bad eczema flare-up
Ally Smith on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Shoulder aches all gone. Training assessment went well. Roll on another 6-month plan.

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT

STG (end Oct 2012)
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger - getting there; adapting to open handing stuff isn't as easy as you think when you're an inveterate crimper!
- Supercool (Gordale)
- Dumpster divers (Diamond) - TICK! 3rd Ascent I'm told.
- Training link: Melancopout (LPT)

Also: Get bolts in Diamond and Orme projects

M (24th Sept) – Rushed aero-cap session at Racecourse. Started raining and getting dark. Pumped out instead of aerobic.
T – Indoor routes. 3 goes at steep 8a, then steep 7b+ and 10min low-end aerocap.
W – Rest
T – Training assessment day. Improvements all round. Strength and aero-power well up, ancap steady/minor improvement. Climbed at Millstone afterwards. TR'd Masters Edge and keen to lead it next time i'm over that way. Anyone got a master cam/Alien they can lend me?
F – Nowt. No particular aches but very fatigued and grumpy.
S – Slate. Warm-ups and dogged Spong. No need to dyno with Keith's beta! Left early for boozey dinner party.
S - Bit hung over and elbow achey whilst having short session at Harmers Wood.

Also, bought a body fat analysing set of scales. Bit confused about results; normal settings has me at 15.1%, athlete setting 7.0%. Athlete setting is for "those doing more than 12hrs strenusous exercise a week", but i can't believe my BF is that low as i'm sure i've got spare fat i could lose. Ideas?
grubes - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Another poor week for me need sort myself out. Hopefully malham next weekend as a mate wants to get on Raindogs.

STG (end of Nov):
7a or harder in Chorro
7a or harder UK
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):

This Weeks Goals:

M: Away with work 12 hours day then a meal and then bed
T: Away with work 12 hours day then a meal and then bed
W: Away with work 10 laps of hotel pool roughly 10m. Went for a walk in the evening
T: Flew home
F: back in the office.
Works 2.5hours. Hard session. Working through many problems between easy and at my limit.
S: Almscliff bouldering. A couple of new things nothing overly hard opened my account on flying arete. Great route!
S: Holmfirth bouldering. Went for an hour stayed for 4. New ticks new eliminates loads repeated great session. Reminds me why I love gritstone bouldering

Next Weeks goals:
Malham at the weekend
Rose Coronary
Try frankenstein
Two wall sessions.
Do not get injured.
Some laps at the wall chorro in 4 weeks!

Not really been online last week been long days at work while away. The weeks over I am tired frustrated and not looking forward to a week in the office.
I have been thinking of my chorro goals. I want to really myself out there. I want to get some hard ticks. I would love to try a 7b and give it a proper go if I do not get it so what at least I would know I tried.

Looking forward to climbing this week. It's nice to see the next trip coming up pretty soon.
grubes - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to grubes:
Also climbing trips sorted for next year now.
Catalunya with nomics, two mates and nik in march
Pembroke June with mates.
Squamish for two weeks ish before I go to a wedding in canada.

So Psyched to get on the limestone and the Getting on the cheif
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

enjoy steve
grubes - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Can not wait for Chorro. I fly in less than four weeks.

Are you looking forward to costa blanca? I loved that place.
grubes - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
Have fun mate good luck on your route at loja
mrchewy - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to ally smith: There's a test the US Navy do for bodyfat and it seems about spot on - I mentioned on here a few weeks ago and I see biscuit has mentioned it this week. Between that and your scales, you'll be there abouts.
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

this week.. quite boring but plenty done.. fingerinjury that won't go away so just did lots of traversing on steep juggy stuff and got pumped.

m-cardio, worked v7 (got a bit to second to last move, but finger too sire really)
t-cardio, weights and core
w- traversing for 50 mins, cardio and core
t cardio
f cardio, core and traversing for an hour
s cardio and traversing for 45 mins
s (today) traversing for 35 mins (head not in it today)fingers still sore even on decent sized crimps so left problems alone and traversed, then cardio and core

reckon next week will look pretty similar if my finger's still sore, also limited with time to climb so not doing routes/leading

joined lancaster uni sports centre so everything under one roof the problems and routes are increasing and improving so its looking like a good place for to train at the moment
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to mrchewy:
> (In reply to ally smith) There's a test the US Navy do for bodyfat and it seems about spot on - I mentioned on here a few weeks ago and I see biscuit has mentioned it this week. Between that and your scales, you'll be there abouts.

It's a weird test but it works. I guess they have had access to 10,000's of fit men and women to do these tests on and when you measure that many people the anomalies get ironed out and you achieve an accurate way of measuring.

I don't know how good it would be to use often i.e. every day or week as there would be issues with measuring accuracy and 1/4 or 1/2" measurements. It was a great way to show that my scales weren't wrong and i had got fatter though. It's amazing how you can convince yourself that the technology you previously told everyone else was very accurate was actually rubbish when you don't like what it say ;0)
JayK - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Did my lap of uni campus this evening. First started doing this again in May. 3 laps with 5minute rests = Times of 6:39, 6:42 and 6:49. Today I did it 3 times with 1minute rests = Times of 6:31, 6:19 and 6:29. Boom. Getting there. Think it's about 1.2mile. Need to borrow my mates Garmin and get an accurate distance.
JayK - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Might have even been June or July. Had a look through my FC entries and couldn't find it so I mustn't have logged the times annoyingly.
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to grubes:

I am looking at getting on 7b's as well so we could fit together nicely. I want to get a few cracked off before i go to Blanca. Any thoughts on what style 7b you would like ? Don't say a slab !

Only climbed in Blanca once for 3 days about 8 yrs ago when i was passing through. Can't remember much of it other than it was bloody good.

You sound quite hard on yourself about this week just gone but away from home in hotels and working lots has got to be a nightmare to get anything done. You performed well when you got outside though so it's not all bad.
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Great improvements well done.
Ian Bell - on 07 Oct 2012
Hi all

Nothing much to report from me, still taking it easy to recover from the glandular fever. Feeling better although be a few weeks before i climb.

Friend is a bit better and coming back to the UK although itll be a while before she is out of hospital.

Going to skip fit club for a few weeks I think until I start climbing again.
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Ian Bell:

Your post last week totally passed me by - sorry.

Awful news and i wish you and your friend the speediest of recoveries. At least it sounds as if she will recover now, your post last week didn't sound too hopeful.

All the best and look forward to hearing from you again.
Sankey - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: In Edinburgh working the lab Mon-Thursday, so only a weekends effort

S: Trying the Walnut traverse (6c)
S: Road Bike 40.5 miles 4000 feet ascent

STG: Frankenjura some grade VII's

MTG: Walnut Traverse at Birchen / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet
+ 7a Sport RP
AJM - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan!

Indoor/training priorities
  • Strength/aerocap/ancap phase
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - ?

<STG> - remainder of 2012
  • Prepare for Xmas trip
  • Keep on plugging with the E3s
  • Tick some more of the 8a pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Try to do all moves and some key links on RHM (all moves done; links of ground to undercut, hold after undercut (clip in already) to lip, lip to chains)

<MTG> - 2012 <DONE>
  • Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7b, 4/4 x 7b+, 3/2 x 7c, 1/1 x 7c+) <DONE>
  • 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 1x 7a+ flash, 1x 7a+ onsight, 10 x E2 onsight, 1 x E2 flash-ish, 3 x E3 onsight, 1 x E3 ground-up] <DONE>
  • 7a+ onsight <DONE>

  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Cheddar; Right Hand Man. Worked moves, spent a long time working on the crux sequence, which for me is the section passing the second bolt, between the undercut and the better holds at the lip of the bulge. By the end I had all the moves on that section sorted and some short links. Worked out some moves on the lower bit, moving from the groove onto the face, but with a wet hold I couldn't quite get it sorted.
T: Rest
W: TCA. Good session. Feeling relatively powered up. Got a load of good problems done. Over half the circuit done already which is good. Tried some harder stuff too but no tick. Then hit some ancap. 10 laps on the first fifteen moves of the 7a+/b circuit. Failed on 3 laps, very close to the end each time. Rest of twice climbing time, 1min 40secs. Hopefully the right sort of intensity.
T: Cheddar with Richard Popp. Back onto Right Hand Man once more. Couple of good goes, link of a decent chunk of the crux, got a decent sequence for the top as well. Mre progress. I'm sure I may have got some bits of the progress confused between Thurs and Mon though!
F: Fingerboard. Good hangs, feeling strong despite not having been on one in a while. Using the mid-layer pockets on the beastmaker, I managed back2@bodyweight, middle2@+8kg, front2@+3kg, and then half crimp on the little rails@+8kg, a good nestled hang on the 30 degree slopers and a reasonably decent actual hang on the 30s. Did a few one arm hangs too. All aiming for the sort of 10s region. Then did pinch training on my wooden blocks, at about 19kg.
S: Rest. Short walk for an hour or so round the Cotswolds, and a bit of a walk around town too.
S: Unexpectedly managed to sneak out for a few hours. After some slogging around Cheddar looking for something dry, I ended up at the Remnant again! Managed a good link which I had been hoping for, from the lip to the chains. Got the lower section wired despite it being wet. Couldn't do the crux though because there were some key wet footholds.

So a good first week of the strength training - some hard moves on Right Hand Man, a good fingerboard session and strong progress in a TCA session. Weight kept low for a while, although Ive relaxed a bit over the weekend, doesn't matter too much though until I am on redpoint...

Pleased with the progress on Right Hand Man too. I've got a link from the ground into the undercut, which now feels reasonably easy and repeatable. I've got a link from the lip to the top, which has a hard move straight off the holds on the lip but then gradually eases towards the top. I've linked a decent chunk of the crux between the two as well. Next steps:
- Extend the link of the bottom, try to get from the ground, through the second clip, into the start of the crux
- Have a play at one possible variation to my crux sequence. Once I've convinced myself on the best sequence, get it more wired and higher %age.
- Try and repeat that link from the lip to the top a few times to get it utterly wired
Then I guess it could be redpoint after that, in a session or two more.

Hopefully get back down there on Wednesday. Busy the weekend again, although hopefully get some good fingerboard and other strength sessions in over the week. Nearly sorted our Xmas plans out too.

annak on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M: gym - lower body push, squats, reverse lunges

T: climbing - rubbish session, just appalling. Fell off my first route which was a viciously overhanging 6a+; ego slightly dented; everything was difficult after that.

W: cycle commute, 14mi; gym - upper body push, bench press, overhead press

Th: cycle commute 14mi

F: gym - much neglected deadlifts

Sa: went to Snowdonia for navigation training, spent 10 hours trampin up hill and down dale, and through many, many bogs. Happily my £5 casio watch is more waterproof than I'd given it credit for.

Su: climbing at carreg wastad - alternating leads on Crackstone Rib and Skylon, a lovely day out and incredible weather!
biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Oooh how excited am i ? I've found a vid of my project route.

Rather unique camera on a stick filming technique that made me feel a bit sea sick. He didn't even use the stalactite rest, just climbed past it. I guess using 2 knee pads takes it down to 7b if you account for 1/2 a grade for each pad.

If you wish to buy the music there is a link to i tunes on the you tube page. My favourite bit was when the bagpipes stopped and the pan pipes kicked in. Very Spanish video.
mattrm - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks as always Dan.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (no progress)
2 - Improve finger strength (need to make/buy a fingerboard...)
3 - Improve footwork (did a bouldering footwork session)
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 5lbs - erk

M - T - Ill
S - 1:06, 6.06km up Pen-y-Fan

I was ill for the first half of the week. That bike ride last Sunday did me in. Just about managed to drag myself into work. When I was feeling better got stuck back into the house renovation. When it's finished, I can actually do some climbing, so getting the house done is top priority. The next few days I've got to paint the kitchen, hallway and dining room. But once that's done, it's mostly finally all done. There's still bits to do, but the bulk of the work will be done after that. Finally.
AJM - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Looks cool, although it does look like it is covered in knee bars and jugs and therefore 6c tops, and that camera angle is wacky and a bit nausea inducing!

biscuit - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM:

The crux ( for me )is between 2 + 3 mins on the small holds with bad feet before a throw out right and then a lunge up. Then you're up a thin really pinchy tufa before you get the 1st knee bar. He cruises it but it shuts me down. However i've never got on it warmed up yet as that is the warm up for the people i've been there with.

If i can get that section done the rest of it is just kneebars and jugs - albeit fairly steep kneebars and jugs and a lot of them.

I'll compromise and say 7a, allowing for knee pads ;0)

I think i can feel an early xmas pressie to myself coming on.
maria85 - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Well done on Scoop Wall, Stoney Middleton has always intimidated me so much I just keep on driving somewhere else!
Joughton - must be gutting to realise that then fall, at least you can learn from your mistake there though and come back better prepared next year! Good effort placing as high as you did still.
Biscuit - enjoy the next couple of weeks climbing and good luck! Eagle River, ditto enjoying Spain
Ian Bell - I'd totally missed that post too, hope both you and your friend are recovering well. Best wishes.

M: Nothing. Still driving north. Short walk in evening.
T: Bouldering session at the Depot as I was in Leeds for an interview. Did most stuff there up to V2/3ish, everything first or second go, wasn't in the mood to work stuff I couldn't do right away. Not a good bouldering attitude I know!
W: Nothing
T: Run 3.8km 19mins. Knee aching again.
F: Nothing except a short walk.
S: Started Fools Paradise at Gowder. Psyched myself out of the first moves of the second pitch - bad/no gear and realised I have totally lost my trad head. Climbed Revenge of the Giant Climbing Ants 2nd pitch instead, glad I did as it involves a fantastic steep crack. Finished up the rest of Fool's Paradise (I think so anyway, got a little lost). OK climb, definitely felt a little sketched out without a nice shiny bolt to clip where there was little gear. Need to get trad head back.
S: Not feeling psyched to climb at all so went for a wander over Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell from Wrynose Pass, back the same way. Lovely to be out on a really beautiful day in the lakes, enjoyed getting better views than from the crag! Knee hurting again. Need to get to see a specialist as resting seems to be doing nothing.

Goals for this week - will be a pretty busy start to the week with birthdays and house hunting, but hope to get something done towards the end.
- 3x run (flat and short for reduced knee pain!)
- Wall session
grubes - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to grubes)
> Any thoughts on what style 7b you would like? Don't say a slab !

What makes you think I would pick a grim horrible slab on minging smears and poorly bolted ... Oh yeah you have met me before.

These are the routes I was thinking about trying:
Gros Rouge 7b
Sara 7a+
La Ley del cateto 6c+
Rock the Kashbah 7b
Arabesque 7a – A pre trip must!
Sheik tu dinero 6c+
Amor Sandunguero 6c
Diedre Torpedol 6c
Amtrax 6a Sports tick (cant be bothered bringing rack)
The gorge
Tipo Sueca 7a
Que tal mea tu padre? 7b 6c+ wot a hard move to the chain sounds like a heart breaker
Cosas Caseras 7a+ (ish)
Manzilla madness 7a

> You performed well when you got outside though so it's not all bad.
Not nothing signifcant new at almscliff. Account opened on another project.
Failed on the 6B dyno at holmfirth I have been getting stupidly close to last few sessions. Bottled the top move of a highball 6A with a bad landing and reversed the crux. I got some filming done. one more session there and I will cut it together.
I guess I just expect more out of my sessions.
AJM - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to grubes:

Hey grubes,

Worth checking the Rockfax update about Encantadas, there seems to have been some "confusion" there - I can't remember off the top of my head but I think it suggested Gros Ruge was 7a+ to the first lower off? I might be making that up though. If the Ley one is an open groove climb just to the right of the wall with that Lait Fraiche route on it I had a bit of a mare on that, pretty thin stuff!

Much as I was desperate to believe for a while that it was 7a+ because I flashed it Cosas is 7a really...

Looks a good varied list! Have fun...

AJM - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to grubes:

Ps 7b slabs are definitely an option for the twisted and strange only...

Nomics4sale - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Hi all.

Thanks Dan for the encouragement.

STG (Spain next week): RP 7a in a day, onsight 6c/+ again
MTG: dunno, V6 at BoulderUK, some new probems at clitheroe, almscliffe crucifx traverse, RP 7a+ or 7b, E1 again this year if possible?
LTG: E1 again next Summer, RP 7a+ in a day in Spain in March 2013

Mon: nowt
Tues: BoulderUK failed to tick any new V5s downstairs then went on the new problems upstairs, flashed 3 new V5s and ticked another 2nd go. Truly the easiest V5s I've ever done there!
Wed: nowt
Thurs: Harrogate wall, depressingly failed to RP a 7a, failed to even top rope it cleanly but then partly redeemed myself by flashing a 6c+. Finished on up down ups.
Fri: 12.6 mile run round Fairfield Horseshoe plus Red Screes, 1,240m ascent.
Sat: Trollers Gill, failed to top rope Jim Grin (7a) and Angel Delight (7a+) cleanly, routes I've RPed before.
Sun am: 10.2 mile local run Pendle Hill, 360m ascent
Sun pm: Almscliffe bloddering, ticked a V5 I've done previously, worked a bit of crucifix travsrese but didn't try the whole thing, it was a bit busy round there.

Totally de-psyched at Trollers Gill. We went there as it was probably the only dry crag around. It was dry but I've couldn't really find any pysche.. I've been there more than any other crag so maybe it's time to take a break from it, find a new all weather crag. Mlaham is the only other good one, maybe I'll just have to get over my dislike of the place.

Spain on saturday, should be good!
grubes - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM:
will do.
I am hoping to tick arabesque in a day. I got all the moves on my last trip. so it is just a case of going for it.

Amptrax just looks fun. I reckon I should be able to fire it off in half aday with minimal faff and a good partner. Could be a fun rest/easy day option.

The other stuff I am going to play by ear and see how I get on. This trip is going to be about projects so. I am planning onsight or bust for low to mid 6's unless the route really inspires me.
But as with all trips its a case of partner psyche and daily motivation.

I don't think I will have a car out there so desplo would only be if Andy is keen. But there is enough good stuff not to go as well.

As long as I feel broken and dead when I come back I will be happy.
grubes - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)

Have fun in spain!

> Totally de-psyched at Trollers Gill. We went there as it was probably the only dry crag around. It was dry but I've couldn't really find any pysche.. I've been there more than any other crag so maybe it's time to take a break from it, find a new all weather crag. Mlaham is the only other good one, maybe I'll just have to get over my dislike of the place.

I felt that way when I left trollers last time. Another day with out a tick falling on the same move and too tired for another burn.

Well if you fancy malham when you get back I will probably be wanting a trip.
Nomics4sale - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to Nomics4sale)

> Well if you fancy malham when you get back I will probably be wanting a trip.

Sounds good, will let you know.

Trollers is a good crag, it's been pretty reliable in the shite weather we've had recently but I think I'm just a bit bored of it now. Malham is supposedly a good winter venue - sheltered, gets whatever sun there is, quality routes, etc etc....
Ally Smith on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM:

Andy, immediately after doing RHM, Tim had a flash go on my clips. He used a pretty whacky looking drop knee movng from the undercut; beta i'd completely missed. Are you sure you've tried every possible method and found the most efficient for you?
biscuit - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to AJM)
> will do.
> I am hoping to tick arabesque in a day. I got all the moves on my last trip. so it is just a case of going for it.
You'll get it.
> Amptrax just looks fun. I reckon I should be able to fire it off in half aday with minimal faff and a good partner. Could be a fun rest/easy day option.
I'd be up for that as well. I've still never got round to doing it. I can bring/lend you some gear if you want to do it but the sports tick is supposed to be fine.

> I don't think I will have a car out there so desplo would only be if Andy is keen. But there is enough good stuff not to go as well.
Yes i'd be up for that. I need to go back and do manzanilla ( i think it was that one or the one next to it ) it's the only 7a i've not got 2nd time.
> As long as I feel broken and dead when I come back I will be happy.
Sounds like a plan.
hokkyokusei - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

The bike is still in for repair and my leg is still to painful to run.
grubes - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Well I am happy for full tick of amptrax either.
Really keen to get it done and should be straight forward enough.

Will send you an e-mail.
AJM - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to ally smith:

I'm using a drop knee to make the second clip from the undercut and move off it - a high left foot dropkneed on a smeary rubbered hold, with my right foot lower down pressed into a little groove - to roll over to the incut hold after it with my left. The clip feels quite strenuous, although since its a high reach off an undercut I'm not that surprised, but the move itself feels fine.

I think I'm ok with that bit, I just need to perfect the sequence going from that incut hold up to the ones on the lip - I'm wondering if I need to change the order of moving my hands and feet since at the moment I've fallen off a few times trying to get my foot high onto the incut (my left hand is on a crimp directly above the incut and my right a bit further up and right on a positive sidepull, if you have any memory of it), and I wonder if trying to move my feet a move earlier when I'm less stretched out might help. Once I get my foot onto the incut I then rock up and leftwards, pulling with my foot, to get over to those slightly better holds on the lip.
Nomics4sale - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

oops just realised after looking at UKC that the V5 I'm claiming for Sunday at Almscliffe is actually only V4. And soft at that!
Ali - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit and maria85: I'm joining the 'random knee pain' gang....but in my case I think I know what it is. Mentioned it to a friend who said it might be that I have tight ITBs (Iliotibial Band), which are basically the tendons (I think) that run down the outside of your thigh from hip to knee - if these get tight (e.g. after running/ hill walking etc) then this can cause knee pain.

I hadn't heard about this before so just figured I get occaionally knee pain because my joints aren't used to running and I'm a bit rubbish at stretching after so get achey legs! But having tried some of the stretches recommended, I can definitely conclude that my left ITB is very tight and that's the cause of the knee pain!

Obviously it may be something completely different for you guys, but just thought I'd mention it in case, like me, you weren't aware of it

Some stretches here -
Ali - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan! I was pretty psyched to get something else ticked before leaving for home.

Last week didn't get a huge amount done as was feeling very down with post-holiday, being-back-at-work blues Plus a couple of social things on and unpacking!

Wed - cycled to work and back (5.5miles each way), session at biscuit factory working some of the reds. Found them pretty hard, but I was still feeling really tired and achey from Rodellar.

Fri - Short lunchtime session at Arch - did all (15?) of the pink and blacks (v1-3) to warm up, then a short fingerboard session (trying to focus on slopers) and a beasting in the tunnel to finish. Still feeling tired from Rodellar...

Sat - Run - 49mins, prob about 5.5 miles but not measured it! Struggled up the hill, but ok apart from that - achey afterwards and knee hurt a bit

Sun - Up to peak for the day - lovely, relaxing day out - I have missed the peak! Went to Birchen and led a few VSs, then soloed some of the shorter boulder problem routes. Total 16 routes, Diff - VS. Managed to get pumped on a 6m VS as every gear placement you had to put it whilst bent arm on slopers....oops!

Goals (til end 2012)
STG (summer/autumn) - onsight 6c DONE, finish Want Out (7b) DONE, Empire of the Sun (7b), Something Stupid (7b)

MTG (2013) - onsight E2, 7c pyramid

Getting Empire and Something Stupid done this year is still doable, but they are both prone to seepage, and conditions so far I don't think have been great for Malham or Ansteys this year! So may have to roll these over to next year...

Eagle River / Nomics - enjoy Spain!! Look forward to hearing about all the routes you get done
oddtoast on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for the encouragement folks - and sorry to hear about the injuries . Having a week off made me super keen and I managed to make progress towards all of my goals:

T- Women's coaching at Harrogate - had a really good session, climbed with one person at similar level and got more done. Have spent a few weeks bouldering and leading so instead went for volume on toprope inc a (soft) 6a plus a couple of easy leads to finish. Got shown a way to belay more smoothly which will have to practice. A good laugh.
T- Took day off work to go to Peak, went to Curbar. Lucky to get another great day of teaching from lithos and met some new people . Did a bit of everything including struggling up a traditional-stylee wide crack (Keeper's crack) and ended with leading a S 4a that scared me. Didn't manage to second everything cleanly but feel am moving a bit more fluently.
S&S-Had friends to stay for the weekend, did lots of walking, eating and drinking.

Have a good week all, at home and abroad.

STG: Do some form of exercise x3 a week
Consolidate 5+ indoors

MTG:Reliable/confident lead belayer
Get outdoors more

LTG: Not sure yet, keep at it and improve.

Banned User 77 - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: on a course all week so struggled for time..

m: am: 5 mile road run. lunch: 5 mile road run. eve: 5 mile road run
t: lunch: 5 mile road run. eve: 6 mile road run
w: am: 5 mile road run. lunch: 5 mile road run. eve: 6 mile road run
t: lunch: 10 mile road/trail run
f: am: 2.5 mile road run. lunch: 5 mile road run. pm: 5 mile road run
s: 4 miles road run. 8 miles walking around NYC..
s: 6.2 miles road run in NY
Alex@home - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

thanks dan. given lack of time at the moment, climbing-wise i'm going to focus on bouldering to try to get a good strength base before i get on any routes. last week i managed:

sun - 5 mile run with about 750ft ascent in 44 mins
mon - 2 hours bouldering at marple in round 1 of their winter bouldering ladder. did about 75 problems, mostly pretty easy but got about half way through the red/white/blue/pink circuit
tue - flexibility, core and weights
wed - nothing
thu - 4 mile run with about 400 ft ascent in 34 mins
fri - bouldering at works with leon. did pyramid set of 8 purple&green, 4 yellow, 2 from the next and 1 white
sat - nothing
biscuit - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Ali:

Cheers for that. I think mine is just the start of knackered knee syndrome. It felt like an obstruction in the knee and was stopping me obtaining full extension. Anyway i ignored it for long enough and it went away so all is good.

That's how i deal with injuries and it's always served me well; apart from all the ones i've made worse by ignoring them of course.
Ali - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to biscuit: Ha! Well good luck with it...

Dan - forgot to say - nice one on Scoop Wall! I fell off seconding it a few years ago - got pumped silly taking gear out then misread the crux. It's a good tick!
leon on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG: A 4x4 session(tick) + a chest & back session(fail).
MTG: Either a PB on VIR @ homeStockport
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(6) (by May 2013).
Redpoint sport 7b (by June 2013)
8 e3s by end of 2013 (ground up is fine)
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12.0
Focus: Strength(1/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Weights. Core.
Tue: ARC. 4x4. Repeaters.
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Rest.
Fri: The Works (VIR).
Sat: Cratcliff (max V5).
Sun: The Torrs (max V4).

Good start to the week, thought I was on for a blinder, but I slacked out as per usual, no chest & back session for me.

My climbing room is getting a serious soaking @ the moment & I am fed-up with sick. You should only have to wipe your shoes every time you fall off when your outside! So I've taken the boards down and am going to see what I can do (I'm not very practical so probably not much). Could be a few months before it gets sorted so I guess my climbing time is going to suffer.
maria85 - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Ali:
Cheers, I had originally ruled that out as the pain didn't seem to be in the right place... it's been moving across closer to where I think it might be ITB though! Going to try those stretches and see if it improves.
mattrm - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Folks with ITBS problems, I had the same problems a couple of months ago and did the following daily:

Foam rollering upper thighs - they can be bought for about £10

The stretches were the best for me. It took several weeks before I noticed a big difference. Also I bought an ITBS knee strap from Amazon, buy a company called Pro-Tec, for about £12.50, which seems to be useful. If it really is ITBS, it's quite fixable.
Exile - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Interested in the intermittent fasting, is the not eting until 12 noon something you've read about or something you've come up with yourself?
jkarran - on 12 Oct 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Daniel.

Looking through my diary there's not much to report besides a head cold and a run I've forgotten the details of. On the upside I've been in Font so next weeks report will be better.

Keendan - on 14 Oct 2012
In reply to Exile:

Sorry late reply. It's fairly common for the 6-8 hour feeding window pattern. I think 12 noon is a nice achievable time to wait before eating, and often fits with a workout.

That said, I'm not in a position to advocate it because to be honest I haven't been very strict.

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