In reply to Daniel Heath:
Goals:
Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)
Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside?
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)
Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6 if time / weather doesn't allow before Xmas
Winter - VI 7
Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
I'd be interested in what people thought of this training plan to take me through to next May if anybody has any thoughts...
5.11.12 – 16.12.12 (6 weeks)Base training / endurance / cardio training for winter climbing
• 1 wall session on routes up to 85%ish of max,(6c ish) concentrate on technique & falling (20 falls a session.)
• 1 bridge session a week concentrating on mileage / technique
• 1 outdoor session – top roping E3 / 4 ground concentrating on technique or mileage bouldering
• 4 hrs hilly road cycling
17.12.12 – 10.2.13 (8 weeks)Power training
• 1 wall session trying hard boulder problems
• 1 wall session using 35degree woody training board – concentrate on undercuts
• 1 outdoor bouldering session concentrating on doing the hardest problems possible
• 1 bridge session concentrating on one handed traversing on increasingly small holds
• 2 x finger board sessions – dead hangs rather than pull ups
• 2 hrs hilly cycling / fell running
11.2.12 – 17.2.13 (1 week)Recovery week
• Going skiing
• Couple of fell runs
18.2.13 – 14.4.13 (8 weeks)Power endurance
• 1 wall session, 4 x 4 boulder problems for first 4 weeks, short, hard routes for second 4 weeks
• 1 bridge session concentrating on power endurance traverse
• 1 bridge session concentrating on endurance traverse
• 1 outdoor climbing session concentrating on working 7a sports routes
• 1 finger board session – dead hangs rather than pull ups
• 2 hrs hilly cycling / fell running
15.4.13 – 28.4.13 (2 weeks)Recovery / getting back into leading on gear
• 2 outdoor sessions a week concentrating on leading routes at 85% of max
• 1 bridge session concentrating on endurance traverse
• 4 hrs hilly cycling / fell running
29.4.13 – 26.5.13 (4 weeks)Peak
• Weekly bridge session on endurance traverse and two outdoor climbing sessions a week centred on final building up to and completing aims
• Possible finger board session
• 4 hrs hilly cycling / fell running
Aims for Peak month:
• Head point Blow Out – E6 6a (Trowbarrow)
• Red Point Ivey League and / or A Vision of Things Gone Wild - 7a+ / 7b (Scout Scar)
• On sight Limited edition – E4 6a / 6c (Hodge Close)
This weeks training:
Mon: Nothing
Tues: 2hrs bouldering, Kendal Wall. Was going to start clip dropping but got there late so bouldered, 3 problems from the V4-6 circuit
Wed: 2hrs 10 hilly cycle ride
Thurs: 2hrs 10 hilly cycle ride
Fri: 1hr traversing on 6b+ traverse at Sedwick Bridge
Sat: Nothing
Sun: 1hr top rope reps on Limestone John, E3 5c on Red Wall, Trowbarrow. (More like British 6a as we needed to find a way around a wet pocket on the crux. Checked out Woodwell to boulder first but it was very wet.)
Sorry for the extended post!!!