/ ukc fit club 296

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Keendan - on 17 Nov 2012
Hi folks, sorry I can't access a computer till tomorrow evening. Feel free to post your week. Will post comments tommorow. Thanks. Dan
biscuit - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. Hope it's climbing related fun keeping you away from the internet.

Bit of a fail this week. Not an epic fail but not great. Lack of psyche due to crap weather i think. I am itching to get back on rock.

Last weeks targets

Body fat: 13.5% average FAIL 13.8% average
Run 30 mins 5 times FAIL only 2 done
Board - 4x. 2 sets of 60s on 20 s off. going to do both sets the same not change from pinch to rungs. FAIL only 3 done but did 3 sets for 2 of them
FB - start ( gently ) to look at 1 handed and more intense fingerboard work. DONE
Core - 175 x 4 but adding 40 moves of more intense exercises. FAIL only 3 done.

When i look at it it's not that bad. 3 board session, max FB session and 3 core isn't too shoddy i guess.I've started rolling around on the floor on top of a tennis ball to massage my shoulder and hip. hurts like mad but in a good way. Seems to be doing the trick.

M - 12.8% Should have been rest day but the sun came out so i got over excited and went on my board. No set of encores etc to warm up. 2 x 60s/20s pinches with 4m rest between sets. First time i completed them all at the new angle :0)
Core: 175 extensive 40 reps intensive. Owch !

T - 13.1% Board session: 1 set BM intermediate encores ( 6 grips ) to warm up - now doing all on the bottom rung of the 2000. Can't complete front 2 encores though, failing around 4/5. 40 press ups and 20 pull ups. 3x 60s/20s protocol foot on campus. All completed :0) Hard session due to the sun shining right on my board.I was having to dip my tips in a tub of water in the rests and wet the rungs or else they were like grease.
30min run in eve.

W - 13.8% rest day. 30 min run.

T - 15.1% WTF ? Diet has been good this week and when i look in the mirror i would say 12-13% tops from what i used to look like. No idea what's going on.
Max Fb session. Did same warm up as Tues. Concentrated on: Back 3, front 2, sloper 45, all 2 handed at the moment. Trying to do it without the hassle of setting up a pulley. I fear this may be un avoidable. My board is in a place where i'd need to take the pulley down every time i use it.I can do back 3 on smallest rungs for around 5-6 secs. Front 2 i am using the smallest rung and the small ( non slopey ) pocket as a graduated way to get onto both in the pockets. Slopers i am using 2 fingers on the 35's and 2 fingers on the 45's. Resting between attempts seems to be key to getting max efforts in. No idea how many reps to do though. I think i stopped a bit early which i would rather do than ping a tendon.
Lock offs were a bit disappointing as my dreams of hulk like strength were shattered. I can almost do it on my weaker left arm but am not really anywhere near on my right. I keep rotating as well so think there may be some technique involved.
Core: 175 reps extensive, 40reps intensive

F - 14.3% Board session as previous days. Pinches this time. 3 sets done :0) Did an extra 100 press ups as my elbows were tweaky.
Core 175 reps extensive 20 reps intensive.

S - 14.1% Leaky house + big storm =lots of mopping and no exercise.

S - 13.4% tweaky elbows, tired and still raining. I guess i could do something if i wanted but i can't be arsed.

Wife comes back tonight so if the weather plays ball i should be able to actually climb on some rock which would be nice.Been stuck at home with kids for 10 days and 8 of those with no car. Not much opportunity for climbing.

Feeling a bit pissed off today with weather/lack of climbing. Now i've typed this weeks essay up ( i use this as my training diary )it is more positive than i realised. Going to see how work/weather pan out before i look at goals but a quick 7b has to be in there if i get out.
NMN - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)

M - 4.35m treadmill, 0.4%.
T - 4.12m road run, 39ft.
W – afternoon: 4.1m road run, 37ft;
- evening: bouldering at climbing works.
T – rest (too busy with a Friday work deadline).
F – 8.01m trail run, 827ft.
S - 5.42m road run, 116ft.
S - morning: 6 or 7 indoor routes (autobelays);
- afternoon: 10.51m trail run, 481ft.
Nomics4sale - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

STG (winter 2012/13): 7b indoors or out, V6 at boulderUK, V4 outdoors
MTG (March 2013): 7b in Spain
LTG (summer 2103): more E1s, look at E2

Mon: nowt
Tues: 4.5 mile night trail run
Wed: Heptonstall, led Bulls Crack HVS having 2nded it 2 years ago. Not much else dry.
Thurs: nowt
Fri: Malham, TRing F&EE x 2.
Sat: 10 mile trail run, langdale, 800m ascent. Meant to do more but wasn't wearing enough layers, very cold.
Sun: Bridestones, short session, ticked V2, The Villain. Very nice.

Relaxed and fun week, didn't work hard and lots of rest. I have 2 quite swollen and sore fingers so I'm going to stay off 7bs for a couple of weeks, hopefully long enough to sort them out. Then back to it!
Keendan - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (295) thread:
JimmyKay – It’s great when you make the effort to change and get out the door and then love every bit of it.
Mrchewey – Thanks for the encouragement, I’ve managed to chip away at all the big CW’s this week. Congrats on the V3. If you climbed a V3 scruffy then you can climb a V4 with control! The new bandits look quite nice with a stiff sole and a good edge.
IainRUK – Two good race results in two days and no rest day. Impressive
Exile – Solid week. That’s some enthusiasm to write out a detailed training plan. Looks fine at first glance. As Jimmy says, if you stick to it, you’ll see some great results. I’d say try not to forget PE during strength and Vice Versa. It’s worth the odd session to maintain the one you’re not training. (From recent experience of getting weaker). Campus board sounds like a good idea to me, as long as you are aware of the risks. Not all the time but you could try 2 sessions a week for a few weeks and see how your fingers/skin copes.
Jake – Not a bad score there. I’m sure you’ll soon reach your previous level of power.
AJM – So many exciting possibilities with a new van. Keep going with PE.
NMN – Good week
Eagle River – Good progress on the 7c
Si_dH – Another good week. Clearly limited by your recovery rather than your motivation.
SeanKenny - Low intensity, high volume running makes a nice change.
Sankey – Fairly active few days. Keep pushing the amount of stuff you can do in a week.
Kevster – A different wall can only be a good thing. Hope your finger copes.
Maria85 – Good few weeks, and lots of biking. It’s great if a certain activity motivates you, run with it!
Grubes – Sorry to hear mate. Don’t let it drag you down. Put your frustrations back into training. Don’t allow yourself an excuse to ease off.
Biscuit – Good work on the fingerboard.
Pebbles – Well done sticking to the running. Make sure you don’t miss a session!
Mattrm – Good working on the diet and doing what you can around a busy time
Nomics4Sale – Good that you’re pushing yourself regularly. The odd bouldering session would be useful to make sure you don’t get weaker.
Rollo – Good week despite ill days
Oddtoast – Well done sticking to the runs, keep it up
Richard Popp – Welcome back. Fantastic news about the 7a. A good milestone. Hope to see you stick with fit club.
Alex@home – some running and some climbing is infinitely better than nothing. Sorry I can’t offer a perspective, being a student with more free time than he can yet appreciate!
Ali – Good to hear your injury didn’t affect your climbing too much. Don’t dwell on bad weeks. Tomorrow is a new week. Go hard.
Ian Bell – Glad strength is coming back. Keep working hard
Eagle River - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan,

Goal: 7c by April 2013.

Mon: Indoor routes, still failing at the same point of the leading ladder 7c at stockport. Tried a 7c on the steeper wall but that felt much harder with a proper stopper move that I only managed a couple of times off the rope.

Thurs: Indoor routes, pretty much identical session to monday. Might have to skip the top clip for success but fell off before I got a chance to do so!

Sat: Indoor bouldering. Got some V6s first go, failed on some v7s.

Felt like a week of just ticking over but I was trying hard each session. Improvements in performance are a bit elusive at the moment but I guess that's to be expected when trying to push your grade. It's all money in the bank in terms of time spent trying things too hard for me. Probably won't get to go outdoors this weekend but I've two holiday days left to take so I'm waiting for that 2-week dry and sunny spell so I can use those days to climb at a dry Malham. That's definitely going to happen, right?
Sankey - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Ticking over week again, need to try and go climbing more often, ideally 3x per week...

T: Exercise bike 8 km
W: Exercise bike 8 km
S: Foundry Level 1 problems
S: Biked 28 mile 3000 feet ascent

STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards

LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet
+ 7a Sport RP
Keendan - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Was on a weekend with the Christian Union at Uni, which restricted fitness at the weekend, and increased the consumption of cake.

M-PE session on boulders. Combining 3-5 boulders to climb up and down. Got pumped silly, great session.
W-The Tower, onsighted 7a and 7a+. 7b with one rest. Felt fit, really encouraging.
F-Short session, bit rushed and way tired for some reason. Did some monos.
S-Pull ups, 6,9,12,9,8

Bouldering made me feel really week, think I need to maintain strength with a bit more discipline while I train endurance.
JBO on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan, just looked on the website and I'm fourth out of 25 which isn't bad for an adult category.

Decent week for me, got two wall sessions in and even managed to get out today which was really nice.

Mon - Liverpool wall straight after college, training for team trials there in a few weeks. Failed miserably on the overhanging wall, really not used to anything that steep! Will get used it after a few sessions though.
Tue - rest
Wed - Stockport, again had a hard time on the steep stuff but with a few more sessions I'll get more confident with steep technique. Realised I should get some core in to improve body tension.
Thur - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - Duke of Edinburgh practice walk thing. Walked about 12km around Edale up some hills and stuff...
Sun - Sunny and dry - yayyy! Figured grit would be too exposed so went to Stoney, had a good day. Warmed up following Dad on a chossy E2 then tried to O/S Circe. It's super safe so it was gonna be nails at E5, so I wasn't really expecting to succeed and wasn't surprised when the 6b crux shut me down. Eventually got the move and the rest clean, will get back on it next time I'm at Stoney. Finished by onsighting an E4 called Wee Doris. Bit bold to start then steep and really pumpy to finish, it was polished as hell so pleased to O/S.

Cheers, Jake
Exile - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:


Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)

Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside?
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)

Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6 if time / weather doesn't allow before Xmas
Winter - VI 7

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Mon: qhr 20 hilly bike ride
Tues: 2hrs 45min Kendal wall - should really have been doing clip dropping but mate wanted to boulder. Lots done, ticked three on the V5 - 7 circuit
Wed: Nothing
Thursday: 1hr road run
Friday: 1hr bouldering outside - endurance traverses
Sat & Sun: My goodlady has been working at the film festival so I had the kids. Great weekend, but no training.

An easy week, ok as I needed a bit of a rest, but need to do a little more next week.
AJM - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

I typed out a massive post and then it died! Bloody thing!

Anyway if you want outdoor routes in a shorter sunny spell then consider a trip down south - welcome to use us as a base if you want and we are about.

So the condensed version of this week is:
Monday - power endurance at the warehouse. Short pe (15 moves) rests=climbing time x4, then foot on campus, about 50 moves, rests=climbing time x4
Thursday - Avon. Flashed Padansac, E2, on Mikes gear, and onsighted Banshee, E2. Avon is good for me because although I struggle there it forces me out of my comfort zone, my overfitness can't make it better protected because the extra runners aren't there to place, and it's thin and techy.
Friday - some repeaters and encores on the fingerboard
Sunday - Brean. 6c to warm up then Pearl Harbour, 7a, first go putting the draws in. I'd tried this in the past but never really finished it off. Then got on Tide Rising, which again I've had a few goes at on or off over the years. I like long term dip-in routes like this because it gives me the chance to see my improvement over time. 2 redpoints falling above the hard section. Worked out a better sequence. Slipped low down 3rd time. Then 4th time I nailed it! Very pleased...!

Felt like I could have done a bit more this week, but pleased with the results - a couple of E2s which challenged me, tidied up one of the Brean 7as, and got a nice power endurance 7b+ ticked, which has nice moves and is a good step for the first week of my power endurance phase.
maria85 - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan

Last week's goals:
2x indoor sessions One done, good one though
bike to work at least 3 days. Only twice, I had good intentions for day 3 but managed to leave my bike shoes at work, didn't fancy riding the hill with trainers on SPDs!
Run twice. Only once
Get out climbing next weekend, maybe Lakes if weather good Climbed today, various commitments yesterday meant I couldn't get out
So, partly successful week - at least I didn't totally fail on any of it. Have decided that now I'm working full time again I really need to plan my weeks better to make the most of them - will be writing down (personal) lists each sun night to help this. Also getting a decent pull-up bar this week (ie. not the one that currently moves and I'm too scared to use incase it ends up on top of me) so will have the fingerboard back.

M: Evening at the Depot. Really good session, did most of the blues, a lot of the purples, and a wood one (1st go) and a red one (3rd go) - really happy with these last two. Off the top of my head around V5 for the red?
T: Overslept therefore no time to bike in. Nothing.
W: Biked to & from work.
T: Biked to work. Had planned on wall in evening but everyone else bailed, leaving just me + boyfriend... meaning it was too easy to go home and eat pizza instead. tut tut.
F: Nothing (forgot bike shoes at work)
S: Run, 30mins, although about 15 of these were getting lost in a bog... really haven't figured out the trails around here yet! Starting to come down with a cold/sore throat in evening meaning I abandoned plans of going to the Peaks on Sun.
S: Crookrise. Rain on the drive there plus cold wind meant low psyche. Fought my way up Long Climb (MVS 4b), thank goodness for the mid route hands-off rest to re-warm hands, then bouldered for a while but didn't finish anything.

We'll see how this week goes as I'm definitely fighting the lurgy right now. Objectives though:
- Bike to work x3
- 2 wall sessions
- 2 runs
- 1 each fingerboard & core sessions
- Get out riding or climbing both weekend days.
- May also get out mid-week, wed is my birthday so might take day off if the weather's good.
mrchewy - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Hahaha

Only you Dan could say in the same post - "Did some monos" and "bouldering made me feel a bit weak"! Thanks for doing fit club again, appreciated.

E2 seconded! A bit unexpected.

Work and life got in the way this week and did nothing of note, basically didn't pack for Wales till ten minutes before I left but hopefully got a few new customers which is always good.

Sat - Gogarth. Seconded The Quartz Icicle on Wen Slab E2 5b. Bitter cold, got the hot aches mid pitch but mad happy all round. Fell once, near the end of the 'thin' traverse but had no feeling left in my hands and the limited movement in my wrist had me off. Right peed off, really wanted the climb clean. Got back on it and made the move straight away by going higher with the right foot first. I only have 40 degrees of movement in my right wrist, so some moves are difficult but yesterday was another step towards working around that.
Sun - Dinorwig with some mates. Led Steps of Glory F5, lovely top part to it.

Not the best start to the week as the boulder room has been reset at Pinnacle and I got nowhere near it. Happy with the lead on slate, felt so in control. Used tiny edges on purpose and looked for ways to do it without effort - good training. Had a good look at a 7a - this may be the 'unrealistic' goal for next year.

Gogarth was alright, if a lot too cold. E2 5b felt fine, just need better stamina really. Dale had wanted to do Quartz Icicle for a while, he breezed the lead. Much impressed. Can't ever imagine wanting to lead anything like that - got to the the start of the hard bit, had no protection for 20ft on a traverse and thought 'hmmm, can't fall here'. Kept really focused, shook out when I could but the hot aches were just nasty and made it tough. Beginner mistake too - forgot my chalk bag, so did it old style.

Need to get back on it this week - feel like I'm on a good learning curve at the moment and want to make the best of it.

Ali - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks for the encouragement Dan - this week was bad but def going to try and improve things from now on!

So this weeks fails....

M - nothing - was my birthday so went to see Skyfall with some friends - awesome film
T - street-orienteering in the city. Basically an hour of running round stopping occasionally to relocate/write down answers to qu. Great fun, though you do get a few strange looks sprinting past the city types drinking outside pubs!
W - nothing - had a sports massage which was good - apparently my back was as hard as a board which is not so good, but better after
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - cycled to biscuit factory (~10 miles round trip), session but felt rubbish and didn't get anything done worth of note. Was just feeling generally knackered and demotivated.

Had a quietish weekend at home, which was much needed and productive - got lots of life stuff done. Was also my first night at home for about 3 weeks - have definitely been doing too much drinking and not enough sleep and exercise. Last week was also pretty stressful with car stuff (I am now wheel-less!) and work being busy, so I think everythings caught up with me and body started saying stop!

Also feeling a bit demotivated at the moment as nothing particularly to train for (no projects or climbing trips planned). So to try and make sure I actually get exercise done, I'm going to try plannign on my week in advance and posting week goals on here, so it will hopefully make me more motivated to actually do it!

So next week's goals...

2 x run (min 30 mins)
2 x bouldering / routes (in reality prob bouldering) - aim to do at least 20 'warm up problems' and at least 5 'hard' problems (normally would say v4-5, but BF seems to have upped its grading a bit, but basically problems that are either in this grade range, or I can't do first go).
1 x gym session - weights and core
2 x core session (may incorporate into gym/climbing)

See if I can get that done!
JayK - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Had the experience of what most teachers have nightmares about this week. Found out during a lesson around 3pm on Monday that Ofsted were due in to school on Tues and Weds. Never crapped myself more!!

Despite this, I still managed to fit in 2 boulder sessions and increase my climbing psyche 10 times. I've got a new challenge and am aware that I'm going to Spain in around 6weeks. So excited.

W-Stress until 4. Celebrate that ofsted was over and got down to the wall for a session despite looking and feeling like a walking zombie.
S-Boulders session at the wall.
Si dH - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> Si_dH – Another good week. Clearly limited by your recovery rather than your motivation.

Thanks Dan. Thanks for the effort you go to actually reading everyone's posts!
Pleased to report my skin recovered from the weekend much better this week. Tried Cocoa butter on a friends recommendation and it seems to be working well.

STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 Ft7s, including at least one Ft7b, before Font

MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March

LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013

Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)

This week:

M: Did a core session while skin recovered from Sunday
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Struggling to remember but a pretty good session I think - felt quite strong.
W: Fingerboard session focussing mostly on pockets. Mostly good but after doing quit a bit I was hanging on the two small 2-finger pockets (middle two) and felt something 'go' slightly in the right index finger main knuckle joint (no real pain but definitely not right) so I stopped.
T: bouldering at Climbing Station. Finger seemed fine. Did about 20-ish of the v4-5 problems and a bunch of easier ones, mostly first go. Finished off with a lap of the F6c+ on the steeper circuit board.
F: Didn't really get a proper training session done, too busy, but managed to fit in about 50 chin-ups altogether over the course of the day (on combination of 20 deg slopers and large crimps on the BM2000).
S: Nothing. Great evening but drank hideous amounts of wine.
S: Nothing. Had meant to do a fingerboard session this evening but Im still shattered from last night so going to leave it.

Overall it felt like a good week training-wise, but looking back I didn't do as much on the fingerboard as I should have done. Psyched to get outside again next weekend - feel like I should be ready to get in to some harder problems now after a couple of grit bouldering sessions, some good training and with some decent skin!

Si dH - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:
PS my excuse for the weekend excess and no climbing was friends' wedding down in London...
Si dH - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM:
Looks like your still getting lots done mate. Have you started work on your van yet as well?

I was wondering if you think you might get up to the peak for some bouldering either of the next two weekends? Would be cool to catch up but I see you're on to pe training now...let me know, if not I need to post you the knee pad back.

pebbles - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
mon: bouldering. didnt get up my target route though tried very hard - spent the last 30 mins falling from the top move.
tues: returned to my nemesis problem, didnt tick it but got up one of the next level first time - guess it shows I need to get better at delicate stuff as well as thugging up burly stuff. then went and did routes - stuck to the overhang, got a couple of 6a+s, then tried another 6b but could only dog it.
weds - couchto5k run, also a core session. felt quite tired.
thurs - bouldering, did things a bit arse about face, did traversing first till I was pumped stupid, then went for coffee and cake, came back energised and did some harder problems, got another white ticked and started working on another.
friday. nowt - on hyper-packed away course all day.
saturday - nowt.
sunday - couple of routes at millstone, led Bond Street (HVS 5a)
AJM - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Good day out today - shirts and tshirts weather on the costa del brean... Gradually working my way through the list of things I've never finished at Brean at easier grades and getting some of the harder stuff in too. Not sure what to try next, the classic 7b+ (Chulilla, although to be honest I think Tide Rising is underrated in comparison) and 7c (Storm Warning) share a top which I don't really get on with, and the 7c+/8a (Black Snake Moan) I'd otherwise be interested in looking at has a black streak on it which is often wet.

Yeah, baby steps but we are starting. Ali is planning to blog the conversion, I can try and find out the link

I'm in London this coming weekend, so definitely not then. The weekend after, the 1/2 Dec, I've got a big pissup on the Friday night so I'm more likely to be around home than heading far away as I anticipate a crippling hangover on the Saturday morning!

I think it might be safer, to be honest, to stick it in the post rather than wait until I probably don't make the peak in a fortnight and stick it in the Christmas post... That sound ok?
Banned User 77 - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM: cheers

m: 10 mile road and trail run.
t: am: 3 mile trail run. pm: hill reps, 9 miles, 1500ft ascent
w: am: 3 mile trail run. pm: 6 mile night time fell race.
t: am: 4 mile trail run. pm: urban orienteering even, ~ 5 miles, good fun
f: 12.5 mile trail run on the pealk
s: 8 miles on the road
s: am: 5 mile trail run. pm: 13 mile trail run in peak
AJM - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:

> Also feeling a bit demotivated at the moment as nothing particularly to train for (no projects or climbing trips planned).

You know what the answer to that is ;)

I've only got 1-2 weekends free before Christmas now, truth be told, but if you want to try and catch up and get some weekend trips in to psyche inducing places over the winter then let me know, always keen...
Rollo - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Still not felling 100% last week but better now I think:

M- Bouldering, Biscuit. Tired.
W- Bouldering, Biscuit.
S- Indoor climbing, Birmingham
S- Gym with Beard, mostly TRX core and sqauts
annak on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I was away last weekend, so thought it'd be easier to wait and do a 2-week post

M: Gym - upper body push

Tu: Cycle 14 miles. Gym - deadlifts.

W: Run - 5 miles, 42 mins

Th: Flew to Costa Blanca! Incredibly early flight but then did manage to get a good few hours in at Marin on the way to the hostel. As my first time sport climbing outdoors, my ego was slightly bruised to discover that indoor grades and outdoor grades are not quite equivalent... Still, lead some fun 5 / 5+, including a great little overhang.

F: Sport climbing at Toix - lead 5+s, seconded 6as.

Sa: Trad climbing on Puig Campana - 13 pitches in 6.5 hours. Glorious, wonderful day out.

Su: Sport climbing at Alkalali - great day. Lead a bunch of 5/5+s, and my first outdoor 6a - pretty terrifying but all that overhang training really paid off. Also managed to second up a 6a+ cleanly, which was most enjoyable. Gave up when it rained too hard to hold on any more and I took a huge swing on a very stretch rope, and almost decked out.

M: Bouldering indoors in the morning since it was still raining very hard. Then it stopped and we went sport climbing at Toix - but I was in bits! Managed one decent lead and called it quits. Shattered! Flew home late.

Tu: Run - 5 mile, 42 mins

W: Gym - upper body push. Cycle 14 miles.

Th: Bouldering at Arch before work. Cycle 14 miles.

F: Gym - lower body push. Cycle 14 miles.

Sa: Rest day. Well, apart from moving house

Su: Bouldering at Mile End
mattrm - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (lost a few lbs)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no climbing this week )
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, v3 @ wall, 12st 2lbs
MTG - Climb 6b @ wall, v4 @ wall, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs - no loss / gain

M - Rest
T - Night out with mates
T - Stretches
F - Stretches
S - DIY - laminate flooring
S - DIY - building kitchen cupboard - Situps and pushups in the evening

Very busy week, lots of social stuff at the start of the week. So then had to catch up on boring house stuff on Thursday/Friday (food shopping and the like) before a full weekend of DIY.

I've rejigged my goals a bit. Leaving the VS one there seems pointless, as I won't be climbing outdoors until the house is done. If I do climb outdoors, I basically need to spend a couple of sessions getting my trad head back on. So indoor goals seem sensible. I think 6b is doable if I can match it up with a bit of weight loss and regular sessions. 6c is probably doable by spring. Hoping to get a load more running/climbing done as I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the DIY tunnel. However I'm quite low on psyche for anything at the moment. Hopefully getting some more of the house stuff done, so I can proclaim it 'finished' (for now) will make me feel much better.

Just to give some of you an idea of how much work we've done on our house since we bought it in Feb, here's a short(ish) list:

By contractors - Fully rewired house & installed network (cat6!), misc building stuff, inc blocking up doors and digging drainage ditches, Installed radiators & new boiler (removed old back boiler and gas fires), installed new bathroom (lots of new plumbing), plastered front room, dining room, kitchen and fixed the pantry/utility room roof.

By us - Stripped all rooms in house of wallpaper, stripped most skirting/woodwork of paint (it's a Victorian house, so there's loads of this, I don't think if you've never done this you can understand how much work this is!), fitted new skirting board, small amount of wallpapering, painted all ceilings, painted (inc lots of prep and filling) all rooms (bar middle bedroom), sanding, varnishing and polishing bedroom, front and guest bedrooms, improved external drainage, initial blitz of garden, lots of 'finishing' jobs that the builders didn't do (eg sealing, extra plastering, filling, putting fittings back on the walls etc), putting up shelving, blinds, curtains and lots of other niggly little jobs.
grubes - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Grubes – Sorry to hear mate. Don’t let it drag you down. Put your frustrations back into training. Don’t allow yourself an excuse to ease off.
Cheers Dan

STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
LTG (End of 2013):

This Weeks Goals:
Get psyche fail badly
Grit. Tick brief Holmfirth low psyche mainly took photos for new guide (hopefully)

M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Depot comp. Dropped a quite a few I shouldn't probably dropped 30-40 points
T: Nothing
F: Depot coaching session. Had a session with Nik. Finger strength is still low and I my fingers are still too weak and frail to fingerboard too.
S: Nothing started putting a video from chorro together.
S: Holmfirth brief session. mainly took photos I couldn't warm up. More time on the video.

Next Weeks goals:
Finish Video
Wall a couple of times

I need to build some psyche from somewhere just not got any
Eagle River - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to grubes:

> I need to build some psyche from somewhere just not got any


Has that helped??
grubes - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
not really think I just need to visit a new crag and tick a load of good routes/problems. Or find something hard and inspiring to work.
You about this weekend?
seankenny - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

Rubbish week from me, had a bad cold and felt awful, so sat at home eating cake.

Looking forward to getting some energy back again.
Alex@home - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

thanks dan. it's almost always better to do something than nothing - but some days you just got to catch up on sleep that's been denied you! i (vaguely) remember the amount of free time i had when i was a student and wish i'd used it better...wait a minute, i had a ball at uni so no regrets about how i used the time

mixed week last week. started off well but tailed off:

sun - nothing (baby still ill)
mon - circuits at edge. didn't feel good but still forced myself to try to get round the 6c/+ one. did 2 sets of 7 laps with a minute rest between laps - nearly completed the circuit on a couple of the laps
tue - 6.5 mile road run with about 700 ft climbing in 47:45. felt good, really enjoyed it
wed - bouldering at edge. unstructured session as took a guy from work who's recently started climbing and wants to learn some technique. still managed to flash a v4, complete the 6c/+ circuit and worked all moves of 7a one
thu - nothing
fri - 5 mile fell run before work. not much energy - took about 45 mins
sat - nothing

weigh-in results - down 2 lbs to 11st 8, BF down 0.2 to 11.1%. Not sure I believe the BF readings yet as I can't imagine I have actually dropped 0.8% in 3 weeks without really going for it (belt still feels just as tight) so will keep an eye on this over time and see where it levels off to.

and since i haven't seen anyone else mention this yet - congrats on the onsight of wee doris, joughton. did you know how run out it is at the top before you got on it? be interested to know as i've only ever climbed it with a rope above and feel pumped just thinking about how far it is from the gear to the top
Eagle River - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to grubes:

Looking after my little brother this weekend so won't be out anywhere good. If you fancy top roping some severes at troy quarry you're welcome to join us!
mattrm - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
> (In reply to grubes)
> [...]
> Has that helped??

Well it helped me. :D So it's had some effect.

grubes - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
possibly its a different venue looks like it has a couple of nice HVS's and VS's could be a fun day soloing.

Super snatch looks good at E5 I could look at that on a gri gri ...
Curious Yellow - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Sorry, dropped out for a bit, I was feeling a bit burnt out with lots of niggling injuries anyway and then hurt my finger. Took a couple of weeks off and then took it easy for a few weeks. It's still a little bit sore but basically fixed now I think.

Mon - Castle. Laps on routes.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Castle. Totally useless! Wandered around for a bit then went home.
Thurs - A bit too much gin.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Biscuit Factory. Slow start but a decent session. 13x greens.
Sun - Biscuit Factory. Lots of chat, not much climb.
Richard Popp - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan, for reading everything and responding, I will be sticking around, its been very useful and having got my 7a I am keen to keep going, so need a bit of advice.

Had the last of my monthly check ups today, it has been a year now, 90% of the tumors that reocurr do so in the first year so it is a big milestone and huge relief. Also work, which has been disrupted (as I work for myself)by the cancer has settled down, was central in winning a major contract and will be offered a six month part time role in implementation so that feels stable. Still waiting to hear hear about a second major bid but my stock is riding high-so lots of room to focus on climbing.

If I am honest I have a) not had a structured training/climbing plan and b) have not really done that much training and yet I have still ticked my hardest route and hit my target. In order to get the plan written have a couple of basic questions-

1-Pyramids- With a new pyramid do I include the routes I have already done?
I fancy having one big pyramid with a BHG at the end-say 7b+. Do people think smaller ones are more useful? When filling in a pyramid do people count all ascents including repeats or only routes you have not been on before?

2-Fingerboarding-decided to focus on strength until new year, various reasons for this but I finish a commitment in Jan that means it will be easier to get to wall to do routes, also been enjoying bouldering rather than circuits. Anyway, have had various, if once warmed up I focus on hangs and repeaters how much time should I aim to spend in a session-I can hang the smallest crimp on BM 2000 for a couple of seconds and the bottom crimp for ten seconds (maybe longer)-if I do three sets of repeaters and then some hangs it is pretty much done in 15 mins (+warm up) This does not seem enough volume to me-any thoughts?

Will post new aims next week-along with outline plan (in broad terms)

Cant quite remember what order I did things last week but did-
-Two sessions at TCA-ticking alot more blacks, have noticed some I do easily first time I struggle to repeat, and some I have to work I can repeat easily-weird.

-One run-short-rather rashly have entered the Bath half next March-not quite sure how that happened as I am not a runner-did it three years ago, 2.02 at 47 with little practice-would like to beat this but not that fussed.

-Swam-once, 30 lengths.

-Stretched-most days

-Core and complexs, did as part of warm up for fingerboard-two shortish sessions.

-Fostered three teenagers for two days-managed to fit in smashing up concrete wall and carrying huge bits too car-great for dealing with feelings

Sorry to have gone on for so long,

AJM - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

Sounds like positive news Richard.

I would include ones I had already done in new pyramids, yes - when I start a new one it's always partially complete from the old one. I wouldn't count repeats though. I've found that smaller pyramids have helped me become more well rounded, but if you want to aim high and tick a route at a grade then one pyramid is probably faster so depends what you want from it really.

I used to do quite short fingerboard sessions but I've found basically that the longer I do them for the better results I can get - what I think is my max hang in a 15 minute session turns out to be more like 80% or so once I'm really warmed up - I think warming up definitely needs to include pretty hard hangs on the way towards your max efforts, as does decent rests between goes, don't rush it. I probably do about an hour now although a lot of that time is resting between goes to ensure I can really pull from fresh when I am hanging. I do a lot more than the crimps too, usually a selection of pockets, some open hand stuff on the rails, some slopers, and at the moment some pinch work too.
Ian Bell - on 21 Nov 2012
Not much from me. Couple of sessions bouldering. Managed to do WIBL 29 eventually which was pleasing. Plan is;

Boulder / get fatter till Xmas.
Week off before Xmas.
Week in Malta climbing over Xmas / New year.
Laps in Jan.
Bouldering again for a month in Feb.
Routes / lose a bit of weight in March.
Week / 10 days in Tenerife at the end of March, hopefully peaking at the right time.

If (big if) things go to plan would aim for at least one 7b in Tenerife.
biscuit - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

Congrats on the test results.

Just to agree with AJM really. Small pyramids are better i feel as they show constant progression. Yes you carry completed climbs over to the next pyramid. So for your 7a+ pyramid you have already done one of the 2 7a's you need to do. Remember they need to be reasonably quick RP's or on-sights. If they take you 20 goes each it'll be a long drawn out process and won't be as motivating.

As for fingerboarding. I do a general warm up ( pull ups, press ups, hanging progressively harder holds for 5 secs at a time until i feel OK to go )then i do a set of repeaters or encores. So 6 x 7 secs on 3 secs off for: slopers, 4 finger half crimp, back 3, front 2, middle 2 half crimp,full crimp. I have 2 mins rest between sets.

I then go on to do max hangs or board work.

So probably 30 - 40 min for warm up and then same again for max hangs or board work.

ukb & bmc shark - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to biscuit:

> As for fingerboarding. I do a general warm up ( pull ups, press ups, hanging progressively harder holds for 5 secs at a time until i feel OK to go )then i do a set of repeaters or encores. So 6 x 7 secs on 3 secs off for: slopers, 4 finger half crimp, back 3, front 2, middle 2 half crimp,full crimp. I have 2 mins rest between sets.
> I then go on to do max hangs or board work.

I think the Max hang work should come first (after warm-up)as intensity is critical if you want decent results in gaining max strength. Ideally for best results do it after a rest day. In fact I only do Max hangs currently for finger training. Re the other stuff maybe leave it as a separate session or at least later in the day? If I wanted to train finger endurance I would probably leave it for another phase
biscuit - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to shark

It is part of my warm up really. I do it at a level that is hard but is not 'pumping me out' to affect the work later. It may be a bit overkill though i suppose.

I've only just started proper max hangs where i feel ready to shortly progress onto 1 handed stuff so am still sucking and seeing.
Just Tintin - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. Where were you parading the other week?

Really need to work on my endurance. Technically I seem to be improving, but just blowing arms/grip too soon into the session.

M: 5mile run
T: -
W: Coached kids at Wall. Then lead session.
Th: Sneaky bouldering session. Still playing on THE V4. First half of problem and second half fine, just need the linking move.
F: 10k
S: New Wall: Sport Martley. Worked a lot of features only routes. Practiced crack climbing.
S: -

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