UKC

Greetings Fit Club!

How have you all coped with this week's weird 'in-betweener' weather? Sneaking in good outdoor moments or knuckling down to some training inside?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502  3 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_623-700979?v=... 

Posters:

AJM: solo lurgy is bad enough, but lurgy with added infant lurgy sounds desperate! I hope you're all mended, rested and easing back in to some training?

Ally Smith: hope you achieved a good carb load? -this is an aspect of preparation I feel needs taking extremely seriously! Look forward to the Spanish trip report -I trust it was the predicted smashfest?

Tom Green: reasonable start to the alps trip, how was week two?!

Ianstevens: congrats on so many multi-session days! Impressive! How was the Peak/CWIF? And did you come up with some new STGs?

Lornajkelly: well done getting stuff done in a week that had both illness and a weekend away! It's so easy to write off a week like that! Any more 6a's this week? Sounds like soon it will be your cruising grade!

Somerset Swede Basher: so, is that shoulder back on track? Good to have the option of biking to take the pressure off a bit. Was this week as varied as last week?

biscuit: that's a relief that the shoulders behaving -did you manage your STG of 'loads of physio'? Look forward to hearing how today's comp went! Bon chance!

Alan Little: well done on the project! I'm imagining them unscrewing the holds as you move off them?! How is the leg strength-work going? Do you have a structured plan for building up the strength/stability?

guy127917: how's the transition in to being a boulderer going? Any outdoor bouldering goals set? Are you structuring the indoor sessions and FB work toward strength gains, endurance, etc?

SFrancis: sounds like Salt Lake was an awesome trip -jealous! How have you found getting back in to the training? Fingers, elbows and shoulders ok after a mini-break from climbing specific training? Do you throw in any prehab exercises?

Planetmarshall: Good effort keeping the training up through the leg recovery. You're going to be the perfect boulderer by the time you're mended -massive arms/shoulders and tiny light legs!

Ardo: great job on the STG -and a nice route to get the goal ticked! Is the plan to consolidate with some more E2s or do you feel in a position to progress towards that E3 MTG relatively quickly? Is the real goal to 'get solid' at the grades or to get a particular route done at the grade?

Powerpuff: feel your pain re: lurgy. How was the wall sesh? -did that kickstart a strong week?

the sheep: that Saturday run sounds dreamy! -the happiness of the long distance runner! Have you a structured programme of running distances to take you towards that half-marathon or mixing up length and intensity to keep on track for the tris?

grubes: welcome back! Sounds like a good start back -just watch those fingers! There are some good resources on finger (p)rehab on some previous FitClub threads if you search back.

mattrm: sleep (or lack of) is so 'make or break'! Did you manage to get the sleep patterns back on track this week? How are the hiit sessions going?

Tyler: that woody sounds ace! Did you get back to Malham this week? What's the progress?

Bones: how's the skin? Did you heal enough to get some good sessions in this week? What are your NW boulder goals?

Rebecca Ting: nice combo of touring and wall-climbing. Did you get some more Austria visits booked in before March 29th?!

Climbthatpitch: some really significant gains on the alpine combine. And I notice the running times are miles better over similar distance and elevation to this time 18 months ago. Good to see the improvement as a reward for your consistent approach. What you got planned to use all the new fitness on?!

MIA: alexm198, cyan

Going well thanks; this week at least! I had a bit of a breakthrough on Monday, completing two of the routes on the wave (the castle's woody), and another route today. For me, doing 3 routes of one set is unprecedented, let alone 2 in a session (and it only gets reset every 6 months!). I've been working on this set for about 2 months, so really happy to have made some progress. I think these three routes are v5-6 ish (routes are not graded).

Not specifically, just happy to be getting out at the moment and adjusting to different styles. I don't think I've ticked anything above v4, so any v5 or up would be nice!

Yeah pretty much raw strength/power training at the moment- fb max hangs and limit bouldering, and then a casual routes session every now and again to just maintain some semblance of endurance. I should probably do some focused core training and anaerobic work as well but I'm just trying to keep it simple. I'm hoping that a few months of strength training will make E2/3 on grit feel easier so I'm not scared, so I won't get pumped

Monday: 8km run, max hangs fingerboard session

Tuesday: 8km run, limit bouldering session (ticker fluoro pink, lh yellow wave routes)

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: General bouldering session, ticked a few slabby things and finally got a stupid v5/6 dyno that has been bugging me

Friday: casual routes session up to 6c+

Saturday: 17km run (probably the last long run before half marathon trail race on 16th), legs felt like lead! I need to be better at doing warmup dynamic stretches before running to avoid over tightness in my hamstrings, which I can really feel over longer distance.

Sunday: Wave limit bouldering session, sent yellow/red spotty. Also sent the annoying purple mantle in the mez.

Next week: Will definitely aim to do a fingerboard session tomorrow and try to progress on a few holds. I have Thursday/Friday off so we are likely to head to North Wales. Hoping to get to Parisellas and ideally get some trad routes done if the weather is good!? I aim to keep the legs turning over as well, so 3 runs would be good.

Predictably by going to Yorshire limestone but they were two very different experiences. I had Wednesday off work so as I thought I might be in with a puncher's chance of getting up my route I decided to rest on Mon and Tue. Come the day it was too hot (should have taken Thursday off instead) and we didn't even go to the upper tier. Had three or four goes up Space Race as Space Invaders (the extension) is unfinished business, disappointed not to do this in a oner and and didn't even settle on a single method for the crux. Escaped with only one cut to my fingers so that's got to be considered a bounds on this route. 

Thur and Fri were rest days (laziness really) and went to Mlaham on Sat, the forecast was pretty bad but I had clips in my route to rescue. As it turned out it was ok to begin with (enough to see my mate waltz up an 8a+) but then it turned really cold. Warm ups were poor and my two attempts on the route were both worse than previous attempts. Had a quick dogged TR of Duck Dive then a quick play on the bottom of Main Overhang, my disappointment at not being able to do the lower crux the way I used to was compounded by my mate being able to lank through it after I'd given him beta!

Despite the setbacks it was great to be out both days, I've already opened or reopened my account on four projects so need to be careful of falling into my normal trap of spreading myself too thinly. Weight has not improved and I've taken my eye off the ball on the general conditioning/mobility so should do some of that today as its now too late for anything else. 

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 8lbs

M - "HiiT"

T - 4 mile walk

W - "HiiT"

T - indoor Bouldering

F - Rest

S - Rest

S - "HiiT"

Nah, sleep went off the rails at the end of the week again.  I do ok for a few days and then want to stay up a little bit later or have lots of do and it all goes horribly wrong.  Went to the nearest bouldering wall to me on Thursday.  It's a nice facility, small but ok wall, some free weights and a few cardio machines and a circuit board (not very steep tho, maybe 15/20 deg?).  I wasn't feeling great and just didn't end up enjoying it tho.  But I guess it's worth getting out even if it sucks?  As I've got a rough goal of getting 50% days this year, here's a running total.  Might as well write it down.  Did surprisingly well in Jan. 

Jan overall - 41%

Feb overall - 25%

Mar so far - 33%

2019 - 33%

Ally - re WICC yes, it's still cold, I take the jacket I bought for belay duty when ice climbing.   A good wall tho (as far as climbing walls are 'good').

Evening Tom, thanks for doing the stats. Made some good progress this week with getting back into the rhythm of training. In all honesty, it's been quite difficult to swallow using up two weeks of annual leave to get basically no climbing done, but oh well. Can't make an omelette etc. etc.

Advice from Uphill Athlete was to do one day of easy Z1 training for every unplanned day off. I had 9 unplanned 'days off', i.e. non-training days, so will be doing 9 days of Z1 work over last week and this week, in addition to some strength workouts to build back up to where I was before the trip. 

Last Week (Building back up to pre-trip volume Week 1/2):

M: Rest and post-trip life admin.

T: Rest

W: 60min Z1 run. Complete battle to stay in Z1. 

T: Ice/mixed muscular endurance workout. Twice through the circuit. Felt hard. Ridiculous how much strength you can lose in two weeks. 

F:  60min Z1 run. Already felt a lot of fitness returning. Much easier to stay in Z1 here.

S: 60min Z1 stairmaster. 

S: 2h30 Z1 run. Felt great. 

Last week's goals:

-

Goals:

This Week

• 5x Z1 sessions (comprising 6h total volume)
• 1x Max Strength maintenance session (in dire need of this)
• 1x Ice/mixed muscular endurance workout (3 times through the circuit)

STG (March 2019)

Need to rethink these.

• [5/20] 20x Scottish winter routes (inc. 2 VIIs)
• [-] 3x WI6 O/S in Dolomites
• [1/3] 3x Alpine routes

MTG (July 2019)

• 3x alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos 
• Push rock climbing grade, aim for 7a O/S

LTG (End 2019)

• All Along the Watchtower, North Howser Tower
• 5x5000m peaks on the Bezengi wall, Caucasus.

Hi Tom,

Thanks for looking after fit club this week.

It did kick start my week thanks, however the intensity of my sessions was way down this week ....the 2 week lay off with killer man cold and probably some weight gain has sapped my strength a little.

Monday:went to the wall, climbed  3 x v4.

2 sets of 20 sit ups and push ups.

2 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls.

Thursday:Max finger board session on bm2000. 6 hangs using slopers.

2 sets of 20 sit ups and push ups.

2 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls.

Friday: went to the wall and climbed four v4 problems 

Overall its good to back exercising again. Injury wise my back is still too sore to run, I may have to get my bike from my parents garage, Ive not used it in years! I'm definitely not getting enough cardio at the moment.

Have a good climbing/training week ahead everyone!

Hi Tom, thanks for stats this week. Took it easy with the shoulder at the start of the week but I've decided it's not as bad as I first thought so getting back into the swing of things now.

Mon. Easy soloing at Curbar. 22 trad routes, nothing harder than VS and about 6 boulder probs up to 6B+ but mostly easier. Lovely evening.

Tues. After the success of last months run/winter climb combos I went for a run/scramble. 7km run taking in urchin clough and stile clough. 

Wed. Decided to make a summer ascent of the sisters of mercy on mam tor. It was the loose horror show I'd expected. Backed off O'Neals ledge afterwards, not enough bravery for a second route! 3km run in/out.

Thurs. Rest.

Fri. Cave Dale bouldering. Did a nice but sharp 6C+ to warm up then got stuck into sheep eggs, an awesome 7C. Did most the moves and my shoulder felt ok. One to go back for, though I think it will take more than one return trip.

Sat. 45km on the mtb with the boy on the back.

Sun. Middle 2 max hang session. First time I've tried a max hang session so just body weight today to check I could actually finish it! 3 sets of 5x12sec hangs on 50mm pocket. Will need to use a smaller edge or add weight next time but an encouraging start. Thinking forward to Tor season and tumbleweed links...

STG: Get outside some more when the weather improves again
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Half an hour shoulder press, reverse wrist curls - important antagonist stuff I've been neglecting lately - plus box squats for the new STG.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. 
W: 
T: Bike one hour
F: 
S: Wall, Weyarn. Projecting around 7a. Had a couple of goes on a route that had been set for the local schools comp, and it turned out to be the definitive comp route: started up thinking "hmm, this seems pretty amenable for the grade", until the last third it suddenly really wasn't. No tick.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Onsight mileage ~6b. Am making a deliberate effort to get used to working hard on consecutive days - I had several Frankenjura weekends last year where I projected hard on Saturday and then was completely shattered & unable to do anything on Sunday. Want to get away from that: weekends with decent weather and no family commitments are too rare & precious to waste.

Had a stressful week for non climbing related reasons, which meant I didn't find time for more than one leg session. Did manage to figure out what seems to be the right exercise to pursue though: box step-ups, starting with lowering and not putting the foot down before I go back up. If I try strict step-ups starting from the floor it seems to be almost impossible not to push to some degree with the  bottom foot.
 

Thanks Tom.

Felt a lot more Jetlagged this time compared to long haul flights in previous years, must be getting older. Tried to take it slow re:getting back into it. Managed to get a few tweaks, in hindsight choosing routes over bouldering was maybe the incorrect decision. I tend to value the o/s more with routes, and give it 100% sometimes at the detriment to tweaks. Foam rollering, and massage seems to of sorted me out.

Week 25/02 - 03/02

* No beer drinking for the week, at least no alcohol for 5/7 days of the week - Fail drank 3/7 days, inc a few too many sat night.
* Healthy eating with focus on calorie reduction - Semi-success, ate healthy but tiredness meant I needed the calories.
* Ease back in to training, with a bouldering and route session, most likely pyramid style - Based on how I feel right now Success.

Mo:  Total rest

Tu: A few routes. Tweaked my left hamstring doing a heel hook on a rather bouldery 6c, very wary as i had ~3 months of issues with my right hamstring last year after heel hooking too much.

We: Rest.

Th: Back to the wall, around 5 x o/s 6c/+. Then a quick go at a 7a which resulted in cramps in lats and neck. My elbow also felt a little tweaked so I was annoyed with myself, I was having too much
fun.

Fr: Foam rollering, rest and pressure point massage.

Sa: Felt much better. Decided I would try the Eric Horst 3-2-1 exercise cycle, so with 3 weeks of max strength to do I headed to the wall. I was slightly wary that my elbow may cause an issue, especially with campussing but I decided to try anyway, and just stop if there was any pain. Turns out it was all ok. Consisted of Warm up, 4 x near max boulders on woody, 4 x limit boulders woody, 2 x 7-53 1/2 crimp and open 3 max hangs, 5 x campus ladders med rungs as fast as possible 3mins rest in between, 4 x 4 weighted pull ups. 2 x 5 I,Y,T. 2 x 20 wrist curls and arm curls. Big session but lots of rest.

Su: Rest.

Goals for 04/03 - 10/03

Depends if weather plays ball for the weekend, if not:
* 2 x runs - ~30mins
* 2 x EH strength sessions, + ARC
* 1 x full aerocap session
* Improve sleep / diet
* Finalise trips for Q2/3

Thanks Tom!

Yep, another couple of 6as bagged on the slab, and a vertical 5+ so I know I'm getting some strength back!  I also led most of an overhanging 5 (with a few points of aid - the top section between the last bolt and the lower-off always blags my head).  Can't wait to shift this "weight belt" though.

It's been a bad week because I basically had a solid migraine.  Managed to make it to the wall twice which is the first time that's happened since I injured myself, so that's a big thing!  No running unfortunately.  Hopefully I'll be able to get back on it this week.

A depressing week, in which I brewed up an amazing lurgy, sacked off week two of the alps trip and bailed home to the UK.

Week 9:

M: sat in Cham, coughing up green and getting mad looking at the blue sky framing the mountains.

T: as M but worse. 

W: drove home.

T: depths of lurgy.

F: lurgy plateaued?

S: feel physically ok, but still coughing up lung lobes intermittently.

S: feel much fitter, but still have a rough cough (though more yellow than green now).

Week 10 Targets:

Ease back in to training

2 Core sessions

1 General Strength session; 1 Max Strength session

120 min hilly Z1

1 Climbing session

STG/Q1:

Scottish Tech 7 (X -annoyingly, unlikely to get now, but felt pretty solid at VI,6 on the brief bit of Scottish I did this year)

3+ classic Cham mixed routes (2/3 -stymied by lurgy, but happy to have climbed the Modica-Noury)

1+ SkiMo summit. (X -did some nice touring in/out of routes, but no skimo tops)

Average 300m vertical on weekly runs. (Not on runs, but yes if you count approaches and climbs!)

MTG/Q2:

Lancs Aretes (666 goal)

6C in Font 

Average 300m vert running per week

Bowland run/climbathon

Welsh 3000s

LTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Lancs aretes (666 goal)

Average 300m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, etc...

Thanks for the stats Tom - I got back home from Spain at 1am and i'm feeling a bit wiped out after 4 straight days of climbing. My elbows and shoulders are grumbling quite a bit too, so I need to factor in more antagonist and conditioning work to my next round of training - but first, Cuba!

Week 9

M – Nuda’s again. Smashed in the backdoors of the traverse project. 3 sessions – much skin loss. 8A? Full Frontal Nuda-ty (f8A) Then went on a rampage and ticked a bunch of training link-ups 6x 7A-7C. Right elbow grumbling.

T – Rest. Couple of sets of gentle press-ups.

W – Rest. More gentle press-ups and slightly manic packing.

T – Very early flight, then drive to El Chorro and in retrospect, a poor crag choice climbing in the sun at Las Encantadas. 3x 7a/+ OS with painful sun baked feet.

F – Frontales. 3x tie-ins on Swimming Through a Shark Attack (8a+). Dog, links, RP. Efficient! Then cocked up big time and took a head-first fall with rope wrapped around my leg from flash go on Eye of the Storm (7c). Dogged to top, then continued into the 8b extension. Did all the moves but was pooped.

S – Frontales. Up too late (beer & gin the night before) and sun was on the crag already, tried Honk Down; failed to OS. RP Eye of the Storm with ease using some sensible (no cut loose) beta. Failed flash on a steep 7c that had only just gone out the sun. RP Honk Down by skin of my teeth. Again, pooped.

S – Desplomilandia. Climbing the shade felt like an altogether different game than Frontales. Last day best day! 7a, 7a, 7c, 7c, 7b, all on-sight and felt like I was finally climbing with some flow. 

I hope not! I should be okay to start cycling and swimming in a few weeks, that should sort the legs out

Last week's goals - 
> Add a couple of reps to the Strength and Conditioning exercises. Continue fingerboard and leg rehab. - Done

Mon - Crimpd Fingerboard Aerocap Protocol (10 sets 6x 7:3 @-40kg)

Wed - Strength and Conditioning.
 - Core. 2 sets Weighted Crunch, Knees to Chest, Plank
 - Max Hangs - 6 reps 10:60 @-10kg
 - Main. 3 Sets Pullups/Pressups/Ring Dips

Thu - Crimpd Fingerboard Aerocap Protocol (10 sets 6x 7:3 @-40kg)

Fri - Strength and Conditioning.
 - Core. 2 sets Weighted Crunch, Knees to Chest, Plank
 - Main. 3 Sets Pullups/Pressups/Ring Dips

Sat - Crimpd Fingerboard Aerocap Protocol (10 sets 6x 7:3 @-40kg)
 - Max Hangs - 6 reps 10:60 @-10kg

STG  - Retest Alpine Combine and Max Hangs. Continue Leg Rehab

MTG - Leg rehab

LTG - Pabbay end June

Cheers Tom, yes Saturdays run was a belter. I dont tend to have a structure for running distances, I tend to just work around my wifes (marathon training) and kids plans. However try to keep a balance of distance runs, short pace runs and intervals and to be honest just buggering off for a trail run when the mood takes me   Dodgy start to last week but it got better.

Monday, turned up for a swim but the fire alarms had gone off and couldnt be reset. Then went for an evening run with the wife who fell over so run abandoned too. Thankfully nothing serious though

Tuesday, 2km lunchtime swim and 4km evening run

Wednesday 2km lunchtime swim, intervals in the evening

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and stretch class

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 26km ride home

Saturday 6km hilly trail run

Sunday, wet and windy 15km run

Hey Tom!

Been hanging out inside this week. It's been so windy, almost got blown off my bike on more than one occasion. I hope you've been having a good time in the Alps.

The skin actually healed fairly quickly. I was sooo sore! I missed the Monday session but was back on it Tuesday. I actually woke up on Monday with a very bad neck, incredibly tight and spasming. It was quite hard to move my upper body other than my arms. So, that has been a bit of an issue this week. However, did manage to improve and beat some personal bests. Plus stretched a lot to help sort my muscles out.

NW boulder goals include anything in Parisella's Cave. I can't actually remember exactly what routes I was working on last time I went there but I will report back next week. We now have two boulder mats so no excuses! Possibly going to get some trad done and maybe some hikes if the weather is a bit rubbish.

Monday: mainly bed and sofa as I couldn't move much

Tues: Back at the wall. I managed a few more moves on the pink on the wave. I have now done all but the last move, which is very powerful for me - just need to get them all together. Definitely the most moves I have done on this wall. Also did a couple of moves I have been trying on other climbs including a few more on a roof V5 (black) in the catacombs - trying to do a few climbs on the roof a couple of times a week to get working on my core/front lever progression. Think it will definitely help. Whilst climbing my neck miraculously seemed ok but it ceased up a lot overnight.

Weds: rest

Thurs: I was going to try for a run today but as I have a tendency to suffer with neck issues after runs when I feel great and my neck/back has been so lame this week I chickened out.

Fri: lead session, led up to 6a+ and top-roped up to 6c+. Am surprised I can still get up a route after bouldering so much but really enjoyed it. Just need to keep it up and get some leads on the things I don't feel so solid on. Currently only leading the routes I feel are pretty easy.

Sat: rest

Sun: Another session on the wave. Still trying for the last move on the pink. Not a great session focus-wise or mood-wise but climbed for a while and definitely improving on the wave. Did a few routes elsewhere in the castle but nothing of note.

This week I am still being careful with my neck and shoulders but will do a run and get outside on some boulders in North Wales. I hope to fit in a climbing session on Weds eve unless we leave for Wales early.

Cheers Tom.

The shoulder held up thanks. In fact sat here the day after it feels good. I was in first place after 3 rounds and the guy who was 3rd put in an unbelievable performance and beat me on the day. On the plus side the problems were great, it's been a good challenge to keep me ticking over, I got a new jumper and t shirt and there was free pizza. My shoulder feels like it's on the mend properly now so it's time for round 4 of the depot boulder league and see how i get on there. I'm hoping for 3rd but we'll see.

Got my two bike commutes in but I think that was it. Never got back to red wall traverse as the weather crapped out. There'll be time yet though.

Time to start getting some rope work done and build some fitness but keep on top of the strength by having focussed sessions on getting BUK V6's (666 challenge). 

Got a rough plan mapped out for trad/local sport over summer. Emphasis on trad as trip(s) to Scotland planned June/July for some big routes. Then switch to sport focus for trip in late Oct. 

Still learning/making progress with diet, feels good so far. 

Nice work, getting yourself a cheeky mention on top ascents!

Thanks for taking over the stats Tom.

Peak was a bit damp sadly, but was nice to catch up with friends. CWIF was good fun, dropped a few problems I should have flashed, and some that I should have done and didn't. Progression from last year in terms in feel, points and position so good on that part, although far from troubling the top half as expected. New STGs are below! Bit of a strange couple of months lined up, as March is very weather dependent of course and I'm away in NZ most of April. Can't really train much for 10 days of that period (got a field trip to run) but can fit a lot of training in the days around teaching; hoping to find a climbing partner for at least a few days. Couple of running events coming up as well, not really goal events as such but its always nice to do well.

Old STGs

Quick summary of how these went:

1) Max Hangs on the AA slot to 90.5kg - DONE (92.4kg on 21/2).

2) Get up any 7A boulder - DONE (Trackside) 

3) Complete all planned sessions for weeks up to the start of March (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs) - 80/81, only missed a single strength session.

4) Triple figures of points in the CWIF (in the 70s last year IIRC) - DONE (111, could have got 135 ish without silly errors).

Goals

STG: 1) Max hangs on the AA slot to 96kg total by 30/03; 2) 7 x 7a routes by 31/04; 3) Complete planned sessions to end of April (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs per week); 4) Feel like I've run well at Nant yr Arain and Lake Hayes trail halfs (23/3 and 19/4); 5) Weight to 70.5kg by 01/05 (current 72.8).

MTGs: 1) 100kg on the AA slot by 01/06; 2) Parkrun PB by 01/06; 3) Cadair Fell Race PB (currently 1:44:08); 4) Find a 7c project for the summer (Orme or Quarries probably).

LTG: 1) Do the project (see MTGs); 2) Under 7.5 hours in Snowdon Skyline (Sept).

Last week (2019.9)

Mon: 1) Yoga; 2) Sunny Trad Leg Slip (E1 5b)Merlin Direct (HVS 5a); 3) Dogging Mayfair (7a+)

Tues: 1) Yoga; 2) 6 x 90% hangs on AA slot @ 84.4kg; 3) Run 11.9km, 396m

Weds: 1) Yoga; 2) 6 x 90$ hangs on AA slot @ 84.8kg; 3) Strength: shoulder shrugs, 5x5 pull ups + 2.5kg, lat pull down <72kg, dips 6x4, TRX IYT 10x3, TRX reverse IYT 10x3

Thurs: 1) Strength: TRX jacknife 12x2, TRX oblique jacknife 6/6x2, TRX reverse plank to L sit 8x3, TRX knee rollouts 8x3, weighted crunch 0kg, supermans 8x3+1kg, windscreen wiper 10x3+2kg

Fri: 1) Yoga; 2) Mississippi Variant Direct (E1 5b), faffed about on Deliverance (f7B+) and Captain Hook (f7B)

Sat: 1) Faffed about on Strapadictomy (E5 6b); 2) CWIF

Sun: rest

Thanks for doing the stats Tom

Thanks for noticing I'm getting a little bit faster

The main thing I want to do is get back to the alps and put in some big days. Hopefully have this sorted for this year. One struggle I am having is I love running and climbing but realise I cant put maximum effort into both.

Also I would like to do a few longer fast packs in Britain but its just getting the balance right between family and other activities. The planed objectives in the UK are

A 2 day Paddy Buckley round

The Pembroke coast path

a 60mile journey I have been planning across the Brecon beacons - this will most likely be the one that is achievable just because how close to home it is.

I had a really good week. I managed to get I 2 climbing sessions and a 100km with almost 2000m of accent while running. I am getting tired of getting up at 4:30 to go for a run before the kids get up though

M - Run, 8.1km, 135m accent, 05:21 min per km

T - Run, 25km, 691m accent, 06:50 min per km

W - AM - Run, 10km, 189m accent, 06:00 min  per km

       PM - Indoor climbing - mainly bouldering

T - Run, 18km, 353 m accent, 06:19  min per km

F - Run, 24km, 313m accent, 05:50 min per km

S - AM - Some push ups, dips, over head press and lunges

     PM - Run, 6km, 119m accent, 05:51 min per km

S - Run, 8.6km, 121m accent, 04:33 min per km

Lee

It wasn't fun!

Mended and moderately well rested, but training is something of a difficulty - the travails of last week are detailed below, plus at some point without me really noticing exactly when my job changed such that the week before holiday always seems to be really busy and stressful trying to close everything off in time.

So last week I had a good wall session on Tuesday, tickling 1-4-6 (an inch or so shy?) and doing some good problems. However, I woke up Wednesday with a sore forearm and wrist, and lower back. Took a few days off - better a skipped training session than a ruined trip to Font.

Friday our attempt to go away for the weekend ended about 5 miles from home by the side of the road, followed by a tow truck back home. We need the van to go away in this coming weekend, and the garage currently don't have time to look at it .which is frustrating (the van is at best limitedly mobile, which leaves us short of options for alternative places to fix it). Currently anticipating extra expense of a hire car might by coming our way, which is adding extra fun into the week.

As for the weekend, I decided I wasn't going to let it ruin things and threw money at a hire car company to fix the problem. We had a good time, including about 5km walk carrying the child. 

This week is going to be about getting the logistics for Font sorted and frantically trying to close off work issues. If I fit anything else in I'll be doing well. I could do with a holiday!

Thanks for the stats Tom. At the moment I feel ready for attempting E3, though will be looking for the right, (safe!!) one. The real goal is to 'get solid' at the E1/2, so I can start looking at E3 with a bit more confidence. Same with the sport climbing goal really: get mileage around high 6/low 7, so I'm looking at lines to climb, not grades.

Mo: Commute walking, 8.9 miles. 8 probs; MH, (4*12/180); IDH, (3*4*10:10/90); 4 lead.

Tu: Commute walking, 10.6 miles. Physio.

We: General walking, 9.5 miles.

Th: General walking, 8.1 miles. 8 probs; MH, (4*12/180); IDH, (4*4*10:10/90): ARC: 1*15', 1*10'.

Fr: General walking, 9.8 miles.

Sa: General walking, 8.9 miles.

Su: Park walk, 12.6 miles.

Weight: 10st 2lb/bf 15.1%

Back into training on Monday went ok. More physio on Tuesday: piriformis and hip mobility and again, not such a painful walk home. Another good session on Wednesday to tick the aim of min 2 training sessions. Nothing outdoor due to weather and other plans.

Front lever progression goal 666 update.

For those of you interested, I went to a new gym tonight (Barber's gym in London) and made a little video of one of my front lever progression exercises. I hope Ash thinks more of this post than my mango shot ;D

When I was doing this I thought my back was totally vertical. This video was at the end of the session repeating the exercise, I think it was probably slightly better when I did it earlier on but as you can see I have a long way to go!!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Burj76UhACS/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_she...