/ UKC Fit Club 634

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Tom Green on 12 May 2019

Hi Fit Clubbers.

Hope you've all had a productive week?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502   

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_633-704228

Posters:

AJM: Better week now some of the Work Club goals are ticked?! Looks like a great finale to the bank holiday weekend (but I'll ignore it so that it can go in this weekend's entry!) So, what's on the hit list from the White Cliff?

Tom Green: So back to running yet? What's the summer trad plan going to be?

Somerset Swede Basher: Looks like productive sidetracking! Back on Tumbleweed this week? Sounds like it isn't far off. Have you tried the sit? Is this on the shortlist for this year's 8A goal?

biscuit: Don't worry about the dip -you've been putting in a good consistent shift over previous weeks, so you were probably due a bit of an easy week. Sounds like the Trowbarrow sesh might have been a symptom of that? Usually those lack-lustre days can either be linked to accumulated fatigue from pushing quite hard or to being just on the front end of a lurgy! Feeling a bit more energised this week?

Alan Little: Looks like the weather started to behave itself. Good trip so far?

guy127917: Great job with the Lakes Hard Rock routes. Haven't done Kipling Groove yet -did it live up to the reputation? Is getting the Hard Rock list ticked a bit of a project or just simmering away in the background? How were this week's climbing sessions?

Ardo: Coping with the return to work?! The one good thing about being back at the coal face is the day-dreaming potential! -So what are those LTGs?!

Powerpuff: Sounds like the core sessions could be helpful with the V7s. Do you have a core workout that you get on with? There seem to be plenty of 'packages' to choose from (Gimme Kraft, Scott Johnson's Killer Core, etc, etc!) that you could add to your sit-ups and prehab.

the sheep: Firstly, congratulations to Mrs the sheep! Great effort. Has it inspired her to sign up for more marathons or was it a 'never again' experience?! Secondly, nice work getting signed up for your open water tri... my other half does them and every time I watch I think they look totally heinous! Apparently the wet suit helps a bit with the swimming compared to 'normal' swimming though?

alexm198: So how are those plans coming along? Did you make a decision on that summer trip? Hope it's falling back in to place and reigniting some of the training psyche?

Jackob: Great work on Free and Easy. I'm sure it won't be long before you get Dominatrix. You're certainly hitting Kalymnos on a streak of good form... how's it going out there?

Tyler: Good work ticking the Gabbarou-Albinoni! What routes have you squatted this week?! Bad times re: rapid setting concrete... any chance you can pass it off as a contemporary sculpture? https://www.turnercontemporary.org/exhibitions/turner-prize-2019

Ally Smith: Good sesh at Nuda's Tartan. How's the mono training going? You just focusing on the sling lean-outs or doing any FB stuff too? 

Lornajkelly: Great work with the running -it sounds like it's all falling in to place -even putting aside the fact that the tech has been underestimating your fitness! Getting a tri in the diary would be a great goal... any thoughts on what type/distance, where and when? 

PlanetMarshall: so did you manage to find somewhere for a good indoor climbing sesh? Also, what's the latest on the leg -are you fully signed off, or still some rehab/physio to do? Really like your LTGs and especially your 666 goal -that will be a great way of getting solid at E2 and also good motivation to have some awesome days out!

Niall_li: Welcome to Fit Club! Good solid goals and sounds like you're close on the STG. What will it take to help the process (apart from less toothache and more fingerboarding!)? Jealous of your home wall! -what's the set up?

MIA: SFrancis, mattrm, Bones, climb that pitch, Rebecca Ting, Ianstevens, Cyan

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AJM - on 12 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM: Better week now some of the Work Club goals are ticked?! Looks like a great finale to the bank holiday weekend (but I'll ignore it so that it can go in this weekend's entry!) So, what's on the hit list from the White Cliff?

A bit better - I swapped one dominating priority for about a hundred competing ones, so swapped modes a bit to plate juggling.

From the White Cliff - I reached the Main Cliff section. Those big E5s are probably a pretty good encapsulation of the sort of climber I'd like to be, but if I were to pick out a photo then the one of Dinosaur is a good one-picture summary of the sort of trad experience I'd want to be able to get involved with!

If you're counting Monday in with this week then it looks even better, in terms of outdoor climbing

Monday - Video Kills (E3 5c) and Certain Surprise (E3 5c), 2x E3 flash, as per last week

Tuesday - achey. But it was the only night I could so I went to the wall anyway. Not a bad session trying some new stuff, once I got moving.

Wed/Thur - needed to rest

Friday - climbing Sat so wanted to rest

Saturday - Wallsend. Repeated the jolly good Opposites Attract (6c) to warm up. Then onsighted Vin Chaud (7a), which was ace. Then onsighted Troll Team Special (7a+). Super chuffed. It wasn't on my 666 list, bit on reflection it probably should have been, I've been meaning to have a good onsight go on it for ages and never been confident enough. Good steep climbing. Then I ran out of chalk so failed to get anything else done, but with a 7a and 7a+ onsight in the bag the day was a success regardless.

Sunday - walked the child down to winspit to chat with hms, plus other child minding. Achey and back a bit sore as a result.

Going to adjust my 666 sport route list a bit. I listed some inspiring projects (gunfighter and Tennessee) that I'm just not going to get on because I want to focus on onsight for trad, and missed a load of the things I thought I should actually try to onsight because I didnt really want to put them out there. So:

Sport routes - some from Colours/Paradise Lost/Bird of Paradise/Troll Team Special/Stay Golden/Outside the gate (or neighbours)/Ariane V (ticked: TTS)

Feel like I'm going well at the minute. No climbing next weekend but a good solid run after that so hoping I can really start to push the boat out. I don't think my base fitness is super high, I think I'm getting through stuff by switching the "a muerte" switch on better and attacking things with more pace. Which is great, in that onsight I often struggle to do that, although a note of caution in that it might not translate if I get onto less obvious or unchalked things where the way is less clear and therefore where it's less clear where to attack towards. I need both, so just keep plugging on I guess and the base fitness will catch up as I spend more time being pumped..... But for now, very pleased with progress...!

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Tyler - on 12 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Bad times re: rapid setting concrete... any chance you can pass it off as a contemporary sculpture

It was more the Legend of Sword in the Stone for garden gnomes.

M: Reported last week, climbed with Ru at BUK

T: Actually went to an office so called in at Depot Manchester on way home. Circuits, dropped last move of purple 3 times, nice to bump into biscuit.

W: Squated up the Voie Menegaux.

T&F: Family stuff

S: First trip of year to Kilnsey, appallingly unfit.

S: Met up with the guy who largely got into climbing at Wilton. I fell off a VS, which is a new low in a year of lows. Partially redeemed myself by getting up my first extreme for a few years but not without trying hard.

This next week, you might see the genesis of a fit club supergroup...

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AlanLittle - on 12 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. A good first week.

STG: Kalymnos: learn useful stuff in the coaching session (first week) YES 
    Find congenial climbing partners (second week) - interviewing candidates in Fatolitis this evening
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Current score: 1
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60

M: Kaly coaching week de facto Day One after yesterday was rained off. Afternoon (the sector); sundry good routes up to & including a second go redpoint of the thin, tricky & excellent Bye Bye Doc (6c).

T:    AM warmed up at Poets. People criticise Poets but I thought it was pretty good really. Anybody who says it's  polished clearly hasn't been to Arco or Stoney.
    PM went to Kalydyna, where I got on the intimidating but excellent Ixion (7a). Just the sort of steep imposing orange wall that I'm scared of and therefore need to be trying. Had a more or less working sequence figured out on my second go for the technical crux in the middle, but hadn't even got as far as the juggy-but-pumpy steep bit at the top - presumably the redpoint crux - before thunderstorm stopped play for the day. Project. 

W: Rest day. Went for a walk in the hills behind Symplegades. Top Tip for prospective Kaly visitors: don't bother. Miles of bleak featureless thorny scrub, where anything that might once have been worth looking at was eaten by goats centuries ago.

T: Telendos, Lambda. One-to-one coaching day with Gaz Parry, in which beta and tactical tips from Gaz, plus perfect conditions, got me up my first ever 7a flash on Eruption (7a). Stunning route, also the first pumpy endurance 7a I've ever succeeded on.  Result!

F: Panorama / Grotta. Got absolutely nowhere on the powerful crux of Aphrodite (7a+); went up Chnosi Family (7a) bolt to bolt; did the moves but it felt a long way off endurance wise. I think I was more tired than I realised from yesterday. 

S: Stankill: easy day. A few moderate routes in the morning with the other course participants before they headed off to their ferries & flights.

S: Rest day. No hillwalking, no swimming to Telendos, no cycling round the island: actual resting. Did a bit of stretching/mobility/foam rolling.

Positive Climbing, positive experience. Lots of useful technique and tactical tips and motivation from Adrian Berry and Gaz Parry, and an excellent group of participants; friendly, pleasant company, thoroughly competent. Would definitely do it again. Adrian sounds quite Johnnyesque at times: "a hold isn't a *thing*, it's an interaction between you and the rock". "You're trapped in the gravity well of the bolt".

Also: this is my third time on Kalymnos. I've been missing out. Previously I've spent my time either on Telendos or scootering to the crags farther north. Hadn't grasped how truly stunning and world class the huge wall directly above the village is. Perfect temps in May too, not too hot as I was afraid it might be. And fewer mosquitoes than in the autumn. Still a lot of springtime damp tufas about though.
 

Post edited at 23:59
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Somerset swede basher - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom, and great stats as always. It's sort of on the 8A shortlist but not before cave pervert and rumbleweed! A week of contrasting halves this week.

Mon. 37km family ride on the mtbs. Quite hilly with 670m of ascent but we took it super steady. 

Tues. Tor. Ticked Tumbleweed (Standing Start) (f7C+) didn't go down without a fight though. Fell off from the jug first try, rested 20mins then managed it. Cut loose glory scenes (= not enough core left to keep my feet on) at the end but just managed to hold it! Took a look at the sit and its as hard as I remember but I have done all the moves before a while back. Luckily it was wet so I had an excuse to run away. Had a look at the end of rumbleweed. Sort of got a sequence.

Wed. Went for a first session at the new Depot Climbing Wall in Sheffield. Thought it was great. Just went on the circuit boards. Flashed everything 7b and below then fell off right at the end of the 7b+.

Thurs and Fri. Full of lurgy. 

Sat. Felt a bit better so dosed up on paracetamol and coffee and spent 10hrs laying a patio. 

Sun. Predictable return of lurgy. 

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AJM - on 13 May 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Aphrodite is reputed to have the hardest move in the whole grotte..... I've not done them all, of course, but it's true as far as DNA, Ivi, Trella etc go

Nice one on the other ticks!

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guy127917 - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> guy127917: Great job with the Lakes Hard Rock routes. Haven't done Kipling Groove yet -did it live up to the reputation? Is getting the Hard Rock list ticked a bit of a project or just simmering away in the background? How were this week's climbing sessions?

I'm not sure what it's reputation is... I found it fairly gentle but in a great position and fairly enjoyable. Central Buttress on Scafell has probably been my fave of the hard rock classics so far. I'm not going out each weekend with a mind to ticking them, but will take the opportunities as they present themselves. Still trying to psych myself up for Elder Crack...

This week went fairly well, back to some consistency.

Monday: Drove back from Lakes in record time. Rest day.

Tuesday: Gentle 7km run, bouldering at the Castle- just a fun session IIRC, think I flashed two v6's (badly graded)

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Short bouldering session on the new comp set. Didn't do super well!

Friday: Some lead routes (6 ish?) upto 6b+ and some bouldering on the new loft set. 

Saturday: 40 minute run, felt good

Sunday: 1 hourish run, enjoyable pace in the sun. 8ish more lead routes in the evening upto 6c. 

Finger on left hand still tweaky, taping heavily but continuing to climb on it to try and get it to heal. Shoulders feeling better- think a combination of backing off the bouldering a little and warming up a little has helped. Lower back is fully recovered, although hurt a lot when Laura stood on my back last week (!) which indicates it is still not back to 100% yet. I should probably do some trx strengthening stuff, but I probably wont!

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Ally Smith on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> S: First trip of year to Kilnsey, appallingly unfit.

Jenny said she could hear you wheezing up the approach path from under the Directissima!?!

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In reply to Tom Green:

Last week I worked and cleaned old house for sale...to the extent that I have bruised fingernails from cleaning!   

Fingers crossed something better happens this week! 

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Ally Smith on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for stats Tom - I'm still just doing the sling lean outs for mono training - gradually getting a higher load but still feel a fair way off doing hangs. I will probably do some assisted deadhangs to keep it nice and controlled while getting stronger on isolated fingers.

Week 19

M – More wedding club (church blessing) and venue pack-up. Shattered; in bed by 9pm.

T – Warm-up inc sling lean-outs, then Crimpd 90% effort max hangs @-17kg 1-arm = ~BW+47kg 2-arm on Lattice edge. 6x 10s hang/2min rest. 5x5 on the minute pull-ups @+5kg. Brew, then -5kg strict front-3 crimp “max-hangs” 6x 10s hang/2min rest – bit weird as bodyweight felt very hard (5s only) but -5kg felt much easier than 90% effort. Will persist with these to get my 3-finger pocket strength back up. A little later, 2 sets of 10x 7/3/6/1@-15kg aero-cap hangs (moderate BFR pressure).

W – Compex capillarisation & brachialis strength (with high BFR pressure). Crimpd floor core routine.

T – 2km row (7min37s), 5min 5+ circuits, then short/recruitment bouldering session at The Chapel. 2x10 dips and 12min run to warm-down.

F – Rest

S – Giggleswick – Hollywood Bowl. Expected it to be wet, but it seems Yorkshire hasn’t been getting the rain the Peak has? 7a+ flash warm-up (numb fingers) attempted flash of Sunset Boulevard (7c) – failed right at the top trying to crimp a foothold. 8a flash attempt – no chance. Kleptomania (8a) 2nd go (YYFY!) https://www.instagram.com/p/BxVmetdjUZ1/ RP the 7c, walked to the G-spot to look at Violent New Breed (9a+) – it’s whack and not in the slightest bit inspiring – at least you can see holds on Hubble!?! Back to the Bowl and failed flash go on Illywacker (7b+) 7c? hard move right below the chains and the little crimpers beta was once again unsuitable for my chubby digits!

S – Kilnsey – directissima warm-up, then straight into Aboriginal Sin (7c+). Got a few draws in then lowered off. 2nd go, got all the draws in, winched up the drill and replaced the manky bolts. 3rd go – dogged the lot and found a good sequence. This route resulted in perhaps my single biggest mental melt-down in the last 10 years when trying it with hms last year, so keen to show it who's boss and finish it off. It's still 50p-20p-50p territory, but at least now it’s just an exposure thing instead of a more tangible fear of gear failure!

Broken this morning, already on my 3rd coffee. Rest today, then looking for evening partners for Kilnsey this week to finish off Aboriginal Sin and possibly bolt something else...

Post edited at 09:27
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Cú Chullain - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Mon - Weights

Tues - ergs - 10 x 500m sprints

Weds - on the water -10km tech session and 3 x 1km sprints

Thurs - ergs -  pyramid training 250m/500m/1000m/500m/250m x 2

Fri - Beer

Sat - 17km tech outing - 4 x 1km sprints

Sun - First outing - 12km inc 6 x 4 min free rate sprints - Second Outing 12km inc 4 x 1 km sprints

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the sheep - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> the sheep: Firstly, congratulations to Mrs the sheep! Great effort. Has it inspired her to sign up for more marathons or was it a 'never again' experience?! Secondly, nice work getting signed up for your open water tri... my other half does them and every time I watch I think they look totally heinous! Apparently the wet suit helps a bit with the swimming compared to 'normal' swimming though?

Cheers, she now has a time she wants to beat so is keen to sign up to next years one and smash it  Couple of folk have said the wet suit helps the swim too which is good. Had another good week gone by.

Monday, marathon day so lots of wandering round Milton Keynes. Really well organised event and the stadium finish was cool.

Tuesday, 2k swim at lunchtime. Got below 34 minutes for the swim for the first time  5k run in the evening

Wednesday, pushed for time so just a 400m sprint in the pool to see if pace had dropped after working on distance. Just over 6 minutes so happy with that

Thursday, 2km swim and stretch class

Friday, 2km swim

Saturday, brick session. 20km ride into 5km run. both felt good and pace was good too. 

Sunday, 17.5km trail run, last 5k was really hard through long grass that dragged at the feet, knackered!

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Lornajkelly - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Lornajkelly: Great work with the running -it sounds like it's all falling in to place -even putting aside the fact that the tech has been underestimating your fitness! Getting a tri in the diary would be a great goal... any thoughts on what type/distance, where and when? 

Thanks Tom.  It's been a pretty bad week as it happens - I got out for a run on Tuesday and it felt great, but over the bank holiday and then the following week my old friend the Black Dog came to stay, so the rest of the week was unfortunately damage control.  I went to Alton Towers on Sunday though, fitbit logged 8 miles walking (so 9 or 10 really haha) and spending time with friends was really helpful, not to mention a solid 6 hours out in the sun collecting vitamin D.  Feeling better this week so back on it with a repeat of week 8.

And the event I've got in mind is Shropshire tri (sprint distance) at the start of September.  It's nice and flat which is what I need.  I've wanted to do Slateman sprint for many years so that's in the plan for a year from now.  Six months after Shropshire to maintain distance and get accustomed to hills is probably just about enough!

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AlanLittle - on 13 May 2019
In reply to AJM:

> Aphrodite is reputed to have the hardest move in the whole grotte

Gaz & Adrian agree with you. Gaz also reckoned the starting boulder on Y Viva Pancho Villa! (7a+), on which I got equally nowhere, wouldn't be out of place as the crux of an 8b.

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Niall_li on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

STG - Eat it 7A @ Fairhead

MTG - 7B

        - In shape for Font in Sept

LTG - 8A

Thanks! Wall is a relatively new addition to the garage - I'll link to the photo when it's approved. 30 degree board 3.2m tall and about 10ft wide with a set of beastmaker holds mostly it feels nails, but getting better at it

Reasonably hopeful my STG will go down on my next trip to Fairhead at the end of the month all being well. Think my limitation is actually more powering out towards the end of the problem than out and out finger strength, need to work on my ancap generally

Not a great week training wise, need to make sure I get my 3 sessions a week in.

Monday - Climbfit class, lacking power after my weekend of climbing, but ground my way through the sets. The heel hooking part of the circuit revealed a definite weakness that i'd need to work on pre-font

Tuesday - Rest, missed pilates due to being stuck in work

Weds - Rest

Thurs - home board ancap session, tweaked finger on my 3rd set of problems, nothing major but decided to quit while I was ahead

Fri - Sun - Weekend in Edinburgh, mostly eating and drinking

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Tom Green on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Well, at the risk of sounding a bit dramatic, it appears the knee is knackered... Should probably get it seen to but don't know exactly when I'm going to manage to fit that in this month. Went for a little test run on Saturday, but it hurts a lot with any downhill. Starting to worry it could throw a bit of a spanner in the works for this summer/autumn's goals.

Week 19:

2 x Climbing (2/2), 2 x Core (2/2), 2 x Strength (2/2), Restart running (0)

M: Indoor Climbing. Max Hangs, Limit Bouldering and AeroCap, including laps on the Crack Vols -seem to have got Thin Hands sorted now -result!

T: Core and General Strength. Sadly, a few disciplined weeks have sent me backwards on the core -seemed pretty tough!

W: Alpine start/finish for work. Half-hearted bit of therabanding at a motorway services pit stop!

T: Rest

F: Core and Max Strength. Core sesh felt a little better -good to be back at it! Skipped the split squats on the strength sesh as I didn't trust my knee.

S: Tried to run, ok on flat but as soon as I go down even the slightest gradient it hurts. 

S: Climbing -short day, with five routes, the highlight being Fall Out (E1 5b) which ticks off a crack climb for my 666 goals. Hopefully steep cracks will start to feel less 'antistyle' with a few more routes like this?!

Week 20 Plan:

Likely to be another challenging week, as I'm working away and still limping around on my left knee.

2 Climbing Sessions

2 Core Sessions

2 Strength Sessions

PREHAB PREHAB PREHAB!

STG/Q2:

Average 300+m vert running per week (Currently 803m)

Bowland run/climbathon

N Wales El Cap Day

Welsh 3000s (recce'd!)

MTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Average 300+m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, Royal Traverse etc...

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 1/6; Hands 0/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes

6 E-points in a day

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Bones [:B - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Whoops, forgot to post for a couple of weeks whilst Laura was here. We did some Peak and Lakes classics. I ticked off another VS lead and a few HS. Had a great time climbing at Gimmer and Shepard's crag in the Lakes. Was unseasonably cold with a little hail or sleet but now that I am warm it seemed fun!

As I am away for a few days I won't be up to much this week; just a couple of gym sessions and the odd boulder, but will do a proper post next week. I have had improvements in my strength and weights in the last few weeks so still on the up. Looking forward to getting back to it next week.

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jackob - on 13 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Mon: Rest day.

Tues: Malham - Had a few goes on Space Race (7b+) did it with two tests! Really nice route. Also did a fingerboard repeaters session and some pull-ups. 

Weds: Malham - 5km HIIT run. Antags

Thurs: Travel to Kalymnos.

Friday: Kaly Day 1 - Warmed up on 3 Ilots (6c) O/S,

Then had 3 goes on Mira que Tinc (7b+) First time I've ever done a Dyno properly on a sport route so that was cool but unfortunately I kept forgetting where to put my feet.

Sat: Kaly Day 2 went to property Andreas. Climbed epherne eternity 6c O/s , prophet Andreas 7a O/s and let combat des chefs 7a o/s. Then headed to the grande grotts to dog up priapos 7c A couple of times. Absolutely incredible route! Just need to rememberall the best rests and which way to go in a few spots. Quic

Sun: 4 mile run +  1 hour yoga. 

Summary:

A good start to my Kalymnos trip with a few solid onsights and a potential project for the trip found. Looking forward to much more of the same over the next few weeks. So far I've managed to avoid beers and gyros so will have to try to keep that up!

STG:

Send Dominatrix (7c), Climb a 7c in Kalymnos. Onsight a 7b in Kaly. 

LTG:

8a (+?) Ideally The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) (8a) + Supercool (8a+)

Post edited at 21:08
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Powderpuff on 14 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Powerpuff: Sounds like the core sessions could be helpful with the V7s. Do you have a core workout that you get on with? There seem to be plenty of 'packages' to choose from (Gimme Kraft, Scott Johnson's Killer Core, etc, etc!) that you could add to your sit-ups and prehab.

Hey Tom,

I always do the same core exercises, sit ups and leg raises....I'll try to mix it up this week, will check out your suggestions.

Tuesday: @ the wall.reclimbed a v5 then worked on the v7 again and a new v6, no measureable progress made. 3 sets of 20 sit ups & press ups, 3 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls.

Thursday: @ the wall. Easy session nothing harder than v4...not feeling it.

Sat: 3 max hangs on the 45 degree slopers on the beastmaker.

Work is very full on at present , and i feel it's effecting my motivation to train . I've  got a couple of family holidays coming up...some rest might not be a bad thing...I'd like to get outside but work life is getting in the way...need to fix this ...and also need to do that extra core workout I keep talking about every week

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Climbthatpitch - on 14 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats Tom

I'll be MIA for a few weeks while away gaining browny points on holiday.

 Lee

Post edited at 14:11
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SFrancis - on 14 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the stats. I had a great weekend, and then got struck down by a terrible cold, and ended up bed ridden, so didnt manage to report last week.

Weeks 29th - 12/05

M: 30min run b

T: Climbing wall session, a few routes still felt a little tired, o/s attempts at 6c - 7b, around 8 routes in total.

W: Bouldering session - TRX (I,Y,T) and 3 x 4 pulls ups 91.5kg, 3 x 15 push ups

T: Rest

F: Drove to portland. Terrible nights sleep.

S: Warmed up on The Jewel of the Isle (6b+), then thought i would put the draws in Colors (7b+) and just kept going all the way to the top. Have tried once before but couldn't remember anything apart from a fingerlock halfway up, chuffed. Mate flashed it straight after with a constant stream of beta. Amazing. Fell off the top of Halfway to Heaven (7b), need to go back. My french friend wanted a go at Prison Sex (7c+) so we headed to coastguard, i tried to warm down on Nothing but the Groove (6c+) but fell of start. Retreated to the pub.

S: Woke up feeling ill, presumed it was a night in a tent. Back to coastguard so GF could try Superfly Guy (7a), I warmed up on Nothing but the Groove (6c+) hard with cold hands but knew where I was going this time so didn't fall. Friend quickly dispatched prison sex. I had heard good things about Spare Rib (7b), so had a look. Really didn't like it, relatively straight forward but great 6c/+ climbing to a horrible sharp shell crimps and a throw to crozzle, everything i dislike about portland, fell off, couldnt find away round the crux that wasnt just throwing to the crozzle so took the draws out. Had another play on Wax Museum (7b+) again terrible. ha.

M: Back home, realized I was actually ill.

T: Felt terrible, knew i was in trouble. Shit hit the fan at work, so stressed about this, didn't help.

W: Went to work until lunchtime, resolved issues from previous day, got sent home for looking so ill.

T: In bed all day.

F: In bed all day.

S: Feeling a bit better, managed a quick light FB.

S: A wedding, GFs birthday and Engagement to celebrate.

Hopefully going to get back to a bit of climbing this week, I was having an amazing run, feeling the best I had for ages. Now feel pysche has been knocked back a bit, diet was terrible whilst I was ill. Need to slowly get back into it.

Post edited at 14:42
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Ardo - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats Tom.

Mo: General walking, 8.2 miles. 7 trad

Tu: Commuting walking, 7.3 miles. Back to work.

We: General walking, 7.0 miles.

Th: Commuting walking, 6.3 miles.

Fr: Commuting walking, 8.5 miles.

Sa: General walking, 7.8 miles.

Su: General walking, 8.8 miles.

Weight: 10st 1lb/bf 14.8%

Good trad day out on Monday at Chatsworth before return to work. Busy old week and glad I decided to take a week off, as trying to cram in some training would have just added to the stress. The LTGs have been decided: review in December after sabbatical. I’m rock climbing pretty well at the moment and really enjoying it, so just going to let next 6 months unfold and see where the wind blows. This starts with getting some training done w/c 13/5.

Next week's plan

Keep diet on track.

Get back on the training wagon.

Review LTGs. ✓

PS Tom, if you need a belay at weekend or anytime from June onward ping me on FitbClub trad list or through UKC, as always keen to get out, weather permitting

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alexm198 - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hey Tom, thanks again for doing the stats. 

Training psyche is making a slow return. I've tied down summer plans now, so flying out to Peru on the 31st May. Very excited for sunshine, empanadas and double-corniced ridges.

Given that it's only a couple of weeks until my trip, I'm slowing down the training. Have started cycling my commute (been meaning to for ages) which is keeping the aerobic fitness topped up. 

Last Week (Base Week 24/30 - structure has gone out the window a bit here)

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Endurance session @ Westway. ARC laps on autobelay and some harder stuff up to 6c+. 

T: Rest 

F: Evening session @ Westway. Limit bouldering. 

S: Rest

S: Unstructured climbing session @ Westway. 1h30 Z1 cycle.

Last week's goals:

-

Goals

This Week

  • 6h Z1
  • 3 climbing sessions
  • ME session (2 circuits)

STG (End of July 2019)

  • Northeast ridge of Huascaran Norte
  • Other cool things in Peru
  • Run the Chavin trail

LTG (End of September 2019)

  • Finish running the North Downs Way
  • Make plans for Alaska in spring 2020
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planetmarshall on 17 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> PlanetMarshall: so did you manage to find somewhere for a good indoor climbing sesh? Also, what's the latest on the leg -are you fully signed off, or still some rehab/physio to do? Really like your LTGs and especially your 666 goal -that will be a great way of getting solid at E2 and also good motivation to have some awesome days out!

Yeah I discharged myself after a couple of months. Overall I'm pretty pleased with my progress, I'm not running yet but I'm not planning on doing any of that until about the six month mark. I think not having a cast and early weight bearing made a big difference to my recovery time ( although I only have a sample of one to show that ).

Last week's goals

  • Carried on with the max strength focus in the gym - managed my first set of deadlifts since January.
  • Good indoor session at Big Rock Bond in Milton Keynes ( stopped off between Oxford and Cambridge ), they have a great training facility upstairs. Did the Crimpd Aeropow 'Boulder Intervals' session. Noted that it's now one set instead of two. Just did the one set, that was knackering enough.

STG

Switch focus to AeroPow sessions between now and Pabbay (About 6 weeks). Some good ideas from the Crimpd App - Boulder Intervals, Broken Quarters, Route Pyramids etc.

If I manage to get outside, at least 4 leads at HVS or above.

MTG

Pabbay, end June.
Also started planning a Sport Climbing trip in November. Would like to go back to Kaly again, but transport a bit of a ballache at that time of year. Also considering Turkey.

LTG

Generic fitness goals - 

  • Do a typewriter pullup
  • Do a problem on a Moonboard

Trad climbing - 

  • The remaining Hen Cloud HVSs
  • Regent Street (E2 5c)

Bouldering - 

  • Banana Finger (f6A)

Winter - 

  • Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)

Alpine - 

  • ...something classic and long.

666 Goals

666m of E2

Post edited at 09:37
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biscuit - on 18 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom. Late post from me.

i had a good recovery from the previous week and I’d give myself 8/10 for hitting all my little targets. 

I went climbed once. Good session on the purples at the Depot followed by some circuits. 

More in depth report tomorrow for last week but your prediction of lurgy was a good one sadly.  

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mattrm - on 19 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs

M -

T - 5k run

W - Rest

T - 5k run

F - S - Shin splints

Relaxing family holiday in Pembroke.  Went out for a few nice runs but over did it and got shin splints.  Probably back to being exhausted next week.

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