/ UKC Fit Club 638

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Tom Green 09 Jun 2019

PLACE HOLDER!

Apologies. I'll post up properly first thing tomorrow...

Tom Green 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Right then... back to work! Did people manage to dodge the rain and get stuff done last week?

Following on from last week's 666 goal request -keep them coming in. The number of the beast is fast approaching so for beastly goals, we need to get stuck in now!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 2 3  

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_636-705188 3

Posters:

AJM: Great work in Fairhead! Especially Ocean Boulevard -you must still be buzzing from that. How's Montserrat? It must feel a bit different transferring from Fiarhead cracks to Monserrat cobblestones?!

Tom Green: With recent poor training and a week of lurgy is it worth reassessing where you are up to and adjusting the training cycle?

Somerset Swede Basher: 666 GOAL IN THE BAG! Boom!! Nice work mate. Do you think the lurgy weight loss helped? It is crazy how much of a difference being lighter can make -it definitely makes me empathise with why comp climbers can get in to a bad place with eating habits. I remember SiDH (previous fit clubber) talking about avoiding biking/running to stop getting heavy legs for bouldering! But don't give up the mountain biking!

biscuit: Glad you liked The Bee -I think it's an underrated little gem! I love those crimpy face climbs that you get in the Wiltons. If you liked The Bee then you should look at The Gay Dwarves in W3. Similar climbing but a bit more committing. So, given this week's dodgy climbing weather, was this week better for conditioning stuff?  

Alan Little: Good work getting on the Moon Board. That'll soon sort out those strength deficits! I always feel powered out just walking past the Moon Board! Are you keeping up some good prehab routines to stop those big moves upsetting your elbows and shoulders?

guy127917: Can't argue with a four day weekend in Pembroke -I'm jealous! Ethos wasn't on my radar but it looks absolutely dreamy -what a line! Let me know when you're back at Curbar -I'll come and entertain you with my traditional backing off of Kayak!

Ardo: Haha -glad I'm not the only one with a 'couldn't be much worse' week! Good to hear about your ARC regime... I'm never sure how hard my ARCing should actually be! I think maybe I've been going too easy -treating it a bit like Zone 1 running, so picking a level that I feel I can go up/down for hours. 

Powderpuff: Well, of all the crags to have wired, Almscliff is a pretty good one! Like your plan for the next few weeks -looks like it ticks all the boxes. Talking of box ticking -what works for you in terms of keeping on top of your week plan? Are you a list maker, diary writer or all-in-the-head person?!

the sheep: Congratulations on the Tri. Sounds like a great result given that it was first time out. Glad that transition practice paid off ;-p Your description of the swim sounds heinous! -I would almost certainly drown in those conditions! Mrs G is usually a bit of a front-runner in the swim, so I think gets the advantage of clearer water. Hard to know how to prepare for those conditions -maybe pool swimming without goggles would be a close approximation?! (Although as Andy Kirkpatrick says -only a fool practices suffering!) 

Tyler: Sounds like a productive week! Does it feel good to have a bit of an action plan for the hip? Brimstone sounds like an emotional experience! Loving the Trad lessons -especially the timing of repeaters vs wire placements! So, did you get Sideline this week or is it a new record for projecting!

Ally Smith: Good luck with the on-the-road training. Always difficult. Worth taking a portable fingerboard? Good progress with the 666 goals. I reckon you could get any easy tick by pressing one of those Hibbertson brothers. Having smashed Raindogs they definitely count as sport climbers but I can't imagine they're much more than 30kg! 

Niall_li: Aw mate -feel your pain about going backwards on a project -just a high gravity day? Sounds like you turned it in to a good day anyway (well done for not throwing a strop and going home!) Annoying to be getting through skin too quickly -maybe this week could be UKC Skin Club -I reckon the likes of AJM, Somerset Swede Basher and Ally Smith will have some good skin saving tips?

Bones: "I just crawled into the hole and refused to move for a while whilst shouting 'there is no way I can do this' followed by various obscenities and then did it and then my twisted brain wanted to do it again" -a perfect description of Trad climbing! Sounds like a great few days in Pembroke. And I reckon you'll smash your 666 front lever -you've got loads of time, especially with your new park gym habit! 

ianstevens: How did the PhD corrections go? All sorted in time for Friday? That sounds like enough to be getting on with, so if you managed the FB benchmarking, kudos! And how was the relay on Sat?

David Staples: A good full week -probably due a rest day on Sunday, so you don't need to feel guilty! Did you manage to get out as much this week or did weather intervene?

Planet Marshall: Good to hear Wildcat gets the thumbs up -I've never been, so you've inspired me to put it on the list! Did you get any of those pre-Pabbay AeroPow sessions in this week? Now it's getting closer have you started obsessing over the guide yet? What's on the wishlist for the trip?

outdoors.nick: Glad you've caught some alpine psyche! Looks like you had good weather for Cham? Building a solid base of strength is always a good plan -feel free to post your regime up hear if you think it would help.

Jackob: That toe sounds annoying! Has it behaved a bit better this week? Kudos for adjusting the goals... I think it's easy to keep goals set in stone, even when they aren't appropriate anymore, which can just be demotivating! And Raindogs is a pretty sweet goal! What sort of timescale are you thinking for those LTGs?

mattrm: Octopush looks crazy! And also pretty violent! I agree that digging is a full body workout -core, shoulders, legs -the lot! Get on the Fit Club email and sort that trad day out... what/where is on your to-do list?

MIA: alexm198, Rebecca Ting, climb that pitch, lornajkelly, SFrancis, Cyan

Ally Smith 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Ally Smith: Good luck with the on-the-road training. Always difficult. Worth taking a portable fingerboard?

Yep - took it - used it, but the mono training via sling lean outs was probably the better bet.

> Good progress with the 666 goals. I reckon you could get any easy tick by pressing one of those Hibbertson brothers. Having smashed Raindogs they definitely count as sport climbers but I can't imagine they're much more than 30kg!

Neither of those lads are that small anymore, and they're very quiet with their achievements, but needless to say they have both climbed WAAAYYY harder than Raindogs. Anyway - 30kg OHP is easy - UKCFC666 needs to be a stretch goal...

Week 23

M – Boulder. 7A+ & 7A ticks. Worked an 8A+ but didn’t get very far.

T – Travel to Hamburg. Hotel gym. Cardio & weights. Beer & burger

W – Nowt. Glut of thai food.

T – Light hotel gym session. 7:25 2k row; mono-sling lean outs and widget lifts. Ate my own bodyweight in sushi. Felt a bit odd sacrilegious drinking Brewdog in the home of weiBenbier.

F – Travel home early doors. Shattered, but only dry weather forecast for days. So, come 3pm I'd already been awake 10hours and needed to wind the strength dial up to 11 on the coffee machine before driving out to Odin’s Cave and smashing The Dark Room (f8A) (7C+ with all the tricks) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bycay4djocK/

S – Mostly DIY club, then grabbed 2 hour dry window to go to a very soggy Gop and do a couple of Font 7’s https://www.instagram.com/p/Bye_ijZDh33/

S – Full day out bouldering in the Peak. Started at Griff’s Buttress but wasn’t psyched. Dragged Mat & Haydn over to Tom’s Cave and did laps on Hannibal whilst trying King Cannibal. Dropped the very last move! Repeated Titus with high heel which turned crux into a virtual shake-out. Briefly tried Andonicus again – with some Haydn improvised kneepad beta; keen for a rematch on both of these after a couple of days rest.

AJM 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM: Great work in Fairhead! Especially Ocean Boulevard -you must still be buzzing from that. How's Montserrat? It must feel a bit different transferring from Fiarhead cracks to Monserrat cobblestones?!

Fairhead was ace. To quote Duncan, my climbing partner:

> "Fairhead is amazing, one of a very few world-class climbing areas in the British Isles. If you climb E1 or up you should just go. Calvin told me of an Irish climber visiting N. Wales for the first time who made it to the legendary Cloggy only to think ‘is that it?!’ I know what he means..."

Monday - showers in the forecast and very windy/blustery. Hell's Kitchen (HVS 5a), followed by prevarication, followed by seconding a pitch of VS in the wet, followed by an abseil to avoid the stream that was P2. Pretty achey from the previous day.

Tuesday - steady rain forecast mid afternoon. Managed to get out, got The Black Thief (VS 4b) done and seconded Duncan on Marconi (E3 5c) which has a pretty exciting top. The prow is the little section of Fairhead, but that still means it's stuffed with quality 30-40m pitches with loads of good E1-ish sort of stuff. Home about 1am after a late flight. Didn't enjoy the solo drive back from Bristol that much.

Wednesday - knackered from said late night

Thursday - packing

Friday - travel to London. Much delayed by an injured trespasser in the tunnel at Southampton.

Saturday - fly to Barcelona. After an even worse than usual gouging from Goldcar and a bit of faff we eventually tried to go climbing. The place we intended to go the track had been closed to vehicles, which led to some confusion. Eventually ended up somewhere else, at  El Prohibitivo, which was pleasant enough 15m pitches. Managed to onsight Agraïda (6c+) and Kill bill (7a+) which I was pleased with.

Sunday - the big day. Overcast which was helpful. Punsola-Reniu (6c+) on  Cavall Bernat, Spain. Excellent route. 4 easier pitches lead to 2 harder pitches and then an easier one to top out. I was block leading. The hard pitches get 6b+ and 6c in the guide and 6c and 6c+  elsewhere, but are also total bolt ladders allowing them to be done french free. I thought even the higher grades were quite stern, but it probably depends on the volume of chalk as one of the things with the conglomerate here is that it's never really obvious where the good bits are from below. The first hard pitch is more of a stamina piece, sustained, steep, quite pumpy, really good. The second has a short hard unobvious section where I fell off. Still hard from the bolt mind you! Pretty big day out in the end - about a 40m walkin, >200m route, abseil descent off the back, scramble and fixed ropes down a fully back to the base, and then the walk out. Several beers and all the tapas for dinner

Montserrat is great, still got lots of things I'd be happy to come back for here. Still here today, but my wife hasn't been feeling well and were both a bit wiped out so not expecting great things! Back home Tuesday morning. Hoping for good weather this weekend as I have a possible 2 days at Ansteys Fri/Sat.

In reply to Ally Smith:

wind the strength dial up to 11 on the coffee machine before driving out to Odin’s Cave and smashing The Dark Room (f8A) 

Nice work on The Dark Room, its always been wet whenever I've taken a look.  Had it in mind as I drive through Castleton everyday to get to work. 

with some Haydn improvised kneepad beta

Everything gets easier with Haydn beta!

In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom.  Weight loss probably made a difference but I think I'd have got it anyway - though maybe not so soon.  Might have a few weeks stress free bumbling before I think too hard about new goals.  Either attempt to slay some previous 'learning experiences' or do some training if the weather is poor.

Mon. 50 press ups (or push ups?  is there a difference?)  A token nod to happy elbows.

Tues. Fingerboard session.  Warm up then 8x 7 sec middle 2 hangs with 2 mins rest.  Doesn't sound much written down but I found it quite hard!  Unfortunately I think I'm going to have to use a smaller edge (I used the big 50mm) as its bruising my fingers on the lip.

Wed. Blackwell dale.  Wanted to try Jerrys trav into jerrys reverse but I realised when I got there I'd not done the traverse since 2011 and it took me all session to work out how to do it again!  Think I;'ve got most of it wired now though, at least r to l.

Thurs. rest.

Friday.  Sport at Water-cum-jolly.  Managed to do Vindicator 7c+ in a session which I was really pleased with.  Nearly got it 3rd go but fell when I couldn't readjust on the wet holds at the top.  Sequence change to different holds and went smoothly 4th tie in.

Sat. Wedding Anniversary stuff.  Turns out Mrs. Swede Basher didn't fancy visiting any rock!

Sun. Bit hungover, feeling more energetic by the evening so did another 50 press-ups, some wrist curls and crimpd floor core.  Ironically, tweaked the shoulder doing antag exercises to save the elbows!  Nothing too bad though.  Enjoyed the Yorkshire Gritstone Cameo appearance in Sunday's episode of Gentleman Jack.

Post edited at 12:52
ianstevens 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> ianstevens: How did the PhD corrections go? All sorted in time for Friday? That sounds like enough to be getting on with, so if you managed the FB benchmarking, kudos! And how was the relay on Sat?

All finshed! Needless to say my grand ambitions of getting them done early in the week didn't happen, so I became a free man again on Friday evening. Didn't get the benchmarking done sadly.

Last Week

Mon - Fri: 20 mins of yoga every day to avoid going mental. Read + edited 50,000 words...

Sat: Welsh Castles Relay, 16.3km, 384 m of up (and down). Racing was super hard, and I didn't even scrape the top half - 42nd/67. 1:13:58 which was a time I was okay with, given the course. Like the wise man I am I wore my racing flats which are awful on any kind of downhill as they have zero support. Lovely blister and (minor) foot strain to show for my troubles. As a team our goal was to not come last in our category, which we achieved - so a great success in that respect.

Sun: Had planned on climbing, but can't wear rock shoes and felt wrecked from the week's efforts. Several naps ensued.

This Week

Goal is to get back to the routine I was in before NZ, but modified to focus more on running - so a couple of fingerboard sessions, couple of gym sessions, three/four runs and one/two climbing sessions (ideally outside!) in a week.   

the sheep 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> the sheep: Congratulations on the Tri. Sounds like a great result given that it was first time out. Glad that transition practice paid off ;-p Your description of the swim sounds heinous! -I would almost certainly drown in those conditions! Mrs G is usually a bit of a front-runner in the swim, so I think gets the advantage of clearer water. Hard to know how to prepare for those conditions -maybe pool swimming without goggles would be a close approximation?! (Although as Andy Kirkpatrick says -only a fool practices suffering!) 

Cheers Tom, the swim was rough, guess there is nothing else to do but practice in different open water conditions more. At least I now have a better idea of what to expect come the next event. Had bit of a slow week what with heavy legs early in the week and family commitments. Week went as follows;

Monday, 250m swim, rounding up the previous days effort 

Tuesday, 1km swim

Wednesday, 6km trail run

Thursday, 2km swim and stretch class

Friday, nothing

Saturday, Taxi service for the kids pretty much all day

Sunday, 8km trail run 

Niall_li 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Think it was just a high gravity day, also probably not helped that I've now realised i'd inadvertently tweaked my starting beta compared to previous goes, (i'd forgotten that i'd a previous video of me on it), doh! with weekends & work etc probably won't get a chance to get back down for another few weeks, but after being pretty training/climbing light the past week i'm feeling psyched to get back on it. On the 3 month countdown to font so the training diary has been dusted off today and i've started to plan out my weeks properly going forward

Sunday - Christening to go to, beers

Monday - Failed to even make it out to my garage board

Tuesday - Pilates

Wednesday - Boulderworld on the new comp set, first 17 flashed, felt straightforward. (aiming to flash the first 22 which would be a new high score) then played about on some harder problems

Thursday - treated myself to a forearm and shoulder massage

Fri - Sunday - In Spain for a wedding, drinks and not enough sleep

Any skin tips greatfully received! Never seemed to have much of a problem when I was trad climbing or sport climbing, but now i'm mostly bouldering it's really limiting my days on. tempted to try some antihydral on the tips to see if it thickens them any

Powderpuff 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Powderpuff: Well, of all the crags to have wired, Almscliff is a pretty good one! Like your plan for the next few weeks -looks like it ticks all the boxes. Talking of box ticking -what works for you in terms of keeping on top of your week plan? Are you a list maker, diary writer or all-in-the-head person?!

Hey Tom,

I'm an all-in-the-head person!

Monday: biked to the wall. New set of problems. Climbed up to v4 and then tried and failed on a new v5. Shoulder theraband.  3 sets of 20 sit ups and leg raises.

Thursday: biked to the wall. Crap session couldn't motivate myself. Similar results as Monday.

Sunday: 5 max hangs on the fingerboard and then did 22 pull ups in a row. 3 sets of 20 sit ups and leg raises. Took the kids to the wall and went up the auto belay.

Weight 11st 8
 

biscuit 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom. I'll take a look at it ta. I'm itching to start pushing a bit on the trad (whilst probably avoiding falling crack) but anything E2 was wet that day. 

Quick report today. Diet was good, conditioning was good. Getting consistent.

It was a pants week for actual climbing. Rain stopped play 3 times. Went indoors 3 times. Had a good auto belay sesh at Stockport, did the SBL at The Depot (up to problem 26 nothing higher tried) and went to Eden Rock Carlisle. Did lots of blues and then tried hard on circuits. I like the climbing there. I fall off due to reading it wrong or positioning my body wrong, not because i'm not strong enough. At that level anyway.

I'm feeling fit and strong atm (relatively) and am really keen to just get on rock but I can't time my free time with sun. Rained off again today. 

Did a decent bike ride in the Lakes with a hangover on Sunday. Coffee and cake for breakfast. Despite it being an average difficulty ride compared to when I was training last year it killed me. It was a lovely ride though. 

This week is last week of my last ever placement and I officially finish all studying stuff. I may have some free time after so fingers crossed for some climbing.

This week I have 2 more chances to get out tradding during the week. Fingers crossed.

If you're about mid week for Lancs stuff drop me a line.

Post edited at 19:55
jackob 10 Jun 2019
In reply to biscuit:

Monday - Got on Sunset Boulevard (7c) . Trying to go for steep routes to keep the weight off my still fairly sore toe. Really inspired by the route but feels tough managed all the moves though.calso fingerboards + offset pull-ups + TRX 

Tues- Rest 

Weds - Rest 

Thurs - Back on sunset boulevard making some good links. TRX + offset pull-ups + fingerboard.

Fri - Rest

Sat - Indoor session at Kendal. Wow that 25m wall doesn't half get you pumped. Fell off a couple of 7bs

Sunday - Back to giggleswick on @sunset boulevard and made some good links and did it with two rests on the rope. Hopefully it will go soon.

STG - Sunset boulevard, Dominatrix(if/when it's dries) and New Dawn

LTG- Raindogs ( Hopefully by the end of 2019)

Tyler 10 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Pretty poor week.

M: Rest

T: Managed to grab a couple of hours at Depot on the circuits (more wasted miles in Lattice parlance).

W to F: Write off because of work, punctuated by finding myself in central London at 8pm unable to check in to a hotel ironically called the California because work's travel system had cancelled my booking.  

S: Chucking it down after a rainy Friday, got carried along by Jenny's enthusiasm and found myself at Kilnsey just as the wind whipped up. Sent Jenny out to check conditions and height of stream and unfortunately she made it back ok and reported people climbing so we quested on. The rain was blowing in to Sideline so after the warm ups we got on Tragedy (or Travesty, no one knows which is which). Awful rock, ok moves three goes up I had sequences for the crux and RP crux but not sure if I'll get on it again.

S: Went to Depot to do some wasted miles but bumped into Arran so tagged some bouldering on first. Good session.

Weather looks shocking for the rest of this week which is a shame as I have custody of the van this weekend. 

AlanLittle 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. Real climbing interfered with the moonboarding schedule this week.

STG: Get on some local shorter/more powerful/possibly more stiffly graded 7's. Ideally get up them. 
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60

M: Half an hour stretching. Trying to get back into the habit of doing stretching/mobility work more regularly.
T:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Hot & humid. I don't do hot & humid: terrible session
W: 
T: Max hangs in the morning - didn't want to risk an evening moonboard session before the long weekend.
    Stretching/mobility between sets.
F: 
S: Frankenjura: Schmidtstadter Wand. Small but perfectly formed jewel of a crag with immaculate Frankenjura pocket pulling. Got on Plastic Fantastic, a 6c+ that I had a brief play on last year. Exactly my style of climbing - just off vertical face on shallow pockets, some good, most not. Good chance to get re-acclimatised to Frankenjura bolt spacing after Kalymnos; logged some proper Frankenjura flight time, coming off just before the anchor and finding myself back at the first bolt (& therefore still comfortably far from the ground). Got it the next go.

S: Frankenjura: Schlaraffenland. Fairly leisurely belaying & easy routing day, having worked hard yesterday & having another day to go tomorrow. Hugely impressed with the crag though - probably the best north facing summer sector I've been to so far in the 'jura.

M: tune in next week for the exciting conclusion to Frankenjura: A Long Weekend's Puntering.

AlanLittle 11 Jun 2019
In reply to AJM:

A British visitor I once climbed with in the Frankenjura described Fairhead as "the Céüse of trad climbing"

AJM 11 Jun 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Was that Duncan too? It sounds like a duncan-ism...

AlanLittle 11 Jun 2019
In reply to AJM:

No, I only know Duncan from conversations on ukb, we've never actually met. He's not alone in his opinion, apparently.

seankenny 11 Jun 2019
In reply to AJM:

> Was that Duncan too? It sounds like a duncan-ism...

I think this was something cooked up in conversation in one of those long London climber drives... One could even argue (and perhaps I did, the M4 feels long sometimes) that really it's "Ceuse is the Fairhead of sports climbing". 

outdoors.nick 11 Jun 2019

> outdoors.nick: Glad you've caught some alpine psyche! Looks like you had good weather for Cham? Building a solid base of strength is always a good plan -feel free to post your regime up hear if you think it would help

Weather was perfect. Still a lot of snow apparently but really fun.

M: Jonathan Conville Course Day 2: Cosmiques Arete (epic route!)
T:  Jonathan Conville Course Day 3: Parts of the Points Lachenal traverse, crevasse rescue skills & moving together practice
W: Went for a hike around Chamonix & Flying back to UK
T: Lie in and general life admin
F: nowt
S: Indoor Ropes. high volume of low grades
S: Went to Stanage Popular. Seconded Coconut Ice (E2 5b) without falling off. My mate took a big fall at the crux but got back on and got it the second time round which was quite the inspiration for just trying hard! I led a couple of HVS's (Queersville & Paucity and then got pumped and couldn't pull through the overhang on Kirkus's corner. Jugged up and found the finish quite straightforward. Finding that I can hang onto all of the holds but struggling to pull through the more powerful moves.

My training so far has pretty been aiming for 2 or 3 sessions of high volumes and lower grades per week to build a base. The week after next it adds in Strength Specific exercises like hangboarding. I'm considering replacing that with something like weighted pull ups so I not struggling with the more powerful moves. 

Post edited at 12:42
David Staples 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

David Staples: A good full week -probably due a rest day on Sunday, so you don't need to feel guilty! Did you manage to get out as much this week or did weather intervene?

Hey Tom,

Weather did stop play on Friday but managed to get an indoor session in. Otherwise the weather doon south on Portland was largely good during the week. Pretty psyched as managed to tick my 2nd font 7a outdoors after just a few tries

Mon - Outdoor bouldering - Cuttings boulder field on Portland. Managed to tick Lost Decade at f7a my second at the grade. This one felt easier than the last and comments suggest it is a soft touch at the grade. Spent the evening by the same boulder trying some of the harder lines, repeated lost decade a few times as well.

Tues - Indoor boulder - My local bouldering gym Rockburn is running a flash comp so I joined in the fun. Out of the 20 problems to do I managed to flash and repeat 10 of the 11 I tried.

Wed - Workout at home - Core workout session for 20 minutes. Pull-up & Push-up session. No fingerboard session this time as fingers were a bit sore.

Thurs - Outdoor sport climbing - Several routes in the mid 6's after work. TR a 7a my friend lead. Finished with some easy DWS down Portland bill.

Fri - The long awaiting 40 degree woodie or Artemis board is ready to be built at Rockburn so I spent the evening with the guys getting some of the ply boards installed. Did a few more comp routes as well. Think I am now up to 15 flash / repeats of 17 problems I have tried out of 20 total.

Sat - Outdoor sport climbing - Intermittent showers stopped play a few times but I manged to jump on a few mid 6’s.

Sun – Back to building the 40 degree Artemis board at Rockburn. Spent the afternoon setting and adding finishing touches

Thanks

In reply to AJM:

> Hoping for good weather this weekend as I have a possible 2 days at Ansteys Fri/Sat.

Stop rubbing it in!

AJM 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

If you got back to me about dates, you too could have exciting trips planned!

SFrancis 12 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

A two week update for me, had a bit of a mad one at work last week, and then headed up to the lakes for a 30th.

Weeks 27th - 2nd

M: Rest

T: 30 min run, A few max 1/2 crimp - lost around 10% of strength since last spate of fingerboarding, pullups 3x3 - 91kg.

W: 10 min Aerocap, boulder session, 2 x 5 I,Y,T and floor core

T: Route session, very tired.

F: rest

S: A few routes 7a-7b.

S: Rest.

Weeks 03- 09th

M: 10 min aerocap, max hangs, 1/2 crimp ~93kg, a few boulders, 3 x3 pull ups 90kg.

T: Work was very stressful. A mistake by an operator meant I was wrongly informed I was exposed to radiation, quickly cleared up but scary (thankfully had not started to watch Chernobyl) 10 mins ARC, 6 x routes 6c-7b mostly o/s, 2 x 5 I,Y,T. A few beers to chill out.

W: 20min run, floor core, shoulder supersets.

T: Drove to the lakes

F: Shepherd’s Crag warmed up on Finale (HVS 5a), then  Kransic Crack Direct (HVS 5a), before finishing on M.G.C. (E2 5c), topped out in the rain. Keswick beer fest in the evening.

S: Chilled, very wet.

S: Steel Knotts (Borrowdale), Climbed Meandering Maggot (E1 5b), and seconded "Free Falling (E4 6a)" getting the gear out despite how well it was placed, felt very pumped.

Goals for this week

Its looking very wet so most likely crack on with some training, aiming to get a good strength session, an endurance session and 2 x runs.

Lornajkelly 12 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

I typed up a full post for last week that partly talked about the disaster of a day I had at Windgather that weekend (had a massive panic attack on a VDiff and it was horrendous), revised goals to make them more realistic etc etc - then managed to close the tab without posting it and couldn't face doing it again.

So basically, yes I hate gritstone but I think Severes this month is over-optimistic.  I think I need to reign it in quite substantially.  New goals below.  If it turns out to have been a blip and otherwise things go okay then I can bring them back up.  

The week's training:

M - rest

Tu - couch to 5k week 7.  I'd been depressed during the day but got up and out anyway.  It was absolutely caning it down and it was the most fun I've had whilst exercising in a long time.  

W - rest

Th - had to reschedule the wall (travelled over to Scouseland for a job interview instead)

F - couch to 5k week 7

Sa - really good wall session.  Attempted a 6b on top rope, got really pissed off by it but decided to channel the anger into adrenaline.  It ultimately went, my shoulder didn't complain about it (other than a bit of DOMS which is to be expected because there were semi-dynos) and I got lots of fall practice in, and being able to fall is a long-standing weakness of mine.

Su - couch to 5k week 7

Revised STG (end of June):  lead a VDiff onsight, clean and without hiccups

Revised MTG (week 666):  lead a VS

Ardo 12 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hey Tom, ta for stats.

ARC is more art than science I find: 'should generate a light but manageable forearm pump that you can maintain for the entire time' is the typical statement, so it's more about the route and style than grade. Excerpt is from Uphill Athlete, https://www.uphillathlete.com/rock-climbing-training-arcing/

Mo: General walking, 7.2 miles. Detox day.

Tu: General walking, 7.1 miles. Work on van.

We: General walking, 7.8 miles. Work on van.

Th: General walking, 6.8 miles. 6 trad routes: top day, including on-sighting both of the Unconquerables at Plantation.

Fr: Urban mooching, 7.2 miles. Tired after trad day, so training binned.

Sa: General walking, 7.2 miles. ~12 lead routes, including 7a flash, (because it’s super-soft and about a full grade out!)

Su: General walking, 5.3 miles. 7 trad routes @ Ilkley: a right mixed bag of a day, ending with the best route and getting soaked shortly after finishing it.

Weight: 10st 2lb/bf 15.0%

No training, just climbing and van, so all good.

Next week's plan

Keep diet on track.

At least three days climbing/training.

Do more work on van.

Bones [:B 13 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Bones: "I just crawled into the hole and refused to move for a while whilst shouting 'there is no way I can do this' followed by various obscenities and then did it and then my twisted brain wanted to do it again" -a perfect description of Trad climbing! Sounds like a great few days in Pembroke. And I reckon you'll smash your 666 front lever -you've got loads of time, especially with your new park gym habit! 

Honestly, I just don't know why I do it sometimes but then I forget that I don't know why I do it and I do it again.

Not much happening this week, some minor breakthroughs with core and handstands. Then I went to Paris for three days and ate lots of bread and cheese.

Mon: gym leg day - lots of back squats. This was a pretty painful session and my legs hurt until Friday. Can do a pistol squat on a box on my right leg, absolutely nowhere near on my left. I need to always start on my left and do more reps to balance them out.

Tues: gym arm and core day

Weds: core/calisthenics day - did the ice cream makers with a band of less resistance today. Also, progress on handstand tucks. Able to freehold a handstand for a few seconds and also lower and press back up the first few inches handstand press - progress.

Bouldering but not very well.

Thurs: rest

Fri: gym morning - made it all the way around a skin the cat and pulled myself back up and over.

Sat: Paris - walking/rest and cheese

Sun: Paris - walking/rest and cheese

Tom Green 16 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Another week of lurgy. I've reordered the training cycle to account for the last month or so of crappy training.

Week 23:

M: Long work day.

T: Lurgy/Rest.

W: Rest.

T: Indoor climbing. Max hangs; Weighted Pull-ups; ARC session.

F: Rest.

S: Another Wedding (again, tried to handicap my immune system by alcohol poisoning)

S: Hungover walk. Recovery pace.

Week 24 Plan:

Finally shake off lurgy! Reinstate prehab and core sessions, 2x climbing sesh if poss.

STG/Q2:

Average 300+m vert running per week (Currently 677m)

N Wales El Cap Day

Welsh 3000s (recce'd!)

MTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Average 300+m vert running per week

Some of my summer alpine ticklist

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 1/6; Hands 0/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Overhanging routes

6 E-points in a day

mattrm 16 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 4lbs 

M - 3 mile walk

T - W - Rest

T - 3 mile walk

F - S - Rest

Pretty lazy week.  Busy with family stuff.  That's about it.


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