/ UKC Fit Club 647

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Tom Green 11 Aug 2019

Hi All. Hope it's been a productive one despite most places having a month's worth of rain over the course of the week?

First a bit of housekeeping... I'm away climbing at the end of the months so won't be able to do stats for Sundays 25th August, 1st September and 8th September. Any volunteers?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502    

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_646-708300

Posters:

AJM: sounds like quite a bit of self-imposed pressure to perform in a window of opportunity? I guess the pressure can be productive, but if other things are contributing to not performing as hoped then maybe that pressure becomes counterproductive? Perhaps a good chance to develop your zen side -making sure you are getting satisfaction from days out regardless of the 'on-paper' success.

Powderpuff: A good evenly spaced week for training. Well done for listening to your fingers before they tweaked too far. Nice work with the V5... did you get any further links on the V6 or is it looking like being impossible?!

AlanLittle: Sounds like some nice days out. Good tick with Tensor II -classic! Is the self-assessed lack of performance due to the lack of motivation, or vice versa, or a bit of both?!

Somerset swede basher: Excellent work with the esoteric exploration -Gnosall definitely counts as next-level esoterica!! Good bit of training to balance the more chilled outdoor climbing. Looking forward to hearing the trip report from Thor's Stone!

Ardo: Solid week -nice work. Good to get some quality days in before the weather craps out. Nice work getting on the Rasp -how did it compare to similar style/grade routes? Charming Crack for example?

Niall_li: Great news about Eat It... it's gonna go soon -I can feel it!! It must be really satisfying to see the FB gains translating to real life improvements. Has that given you the boost to keep the training discipline high?

Tom Green: OK week, but is OK enough?! Any advance on OK this week? 

Ally Smith: Solid week -looks like it ticked all the training boxes. I'm assuming projects are on hold, with kilnsey wetter than a wet thing? What are your 'plan-b's whilst cons are unfavourable.

Steve Jones: Congrats on the Borrowdale race. Great result. V inspired by your hill fitness. Did you manage to fit those climbing schedules in to your week? I guess the good news is you'll be mostly working different muscle groups, so shouldn't burn out too much?

Tyler: High fives for the successful van debut! Is the van all set for the Pembroke trip now? What's the latest with the home rig? Got the weight/resistance levels established now?  

Outdoors.nick: Well done on getting stuck in to Hanging Crack -am I right in thinking that type of route is your antistyle at the moment (compared to the bold slabs!)? Is it part of the plan to work antistyle routes? 

Dandan: Glad to hear you've been keeping those fingers on the straight and narrow. Sounds like a nice outdoor session too. Misinterpreted your surprise about 20th place in the comp... assumed it would be pleasant surprise rather than annoyance! (a reflection on me, not you!) Weight and flexibility progressing as planned?

Biscuit: Impressive discipline on keeping the training and diet going despite not having actual climbing to motivate you. Did the discipline stand the test of the wedding?! Any indoor climbing this week (not going to depress you by asking about outdoor sessions!)?

Bones: Congrats on the comp -that's an awesome result! Janja Garnbret needs to watch her back! The Welsh trip sounds epic -especially your Thursday ;-p Has this week seen a strong start to the running training plan?

Ianstevens: EPIC! I've been waiting for you to get back so we can hear about Svalbard! Did you see any polar bears? What was the weather like? Presumably you were on midnight sun? Hope you have a good couple of weeks hols... I'm sure you're ready for it after the last month.

cyan: glad it was a quality session! Did it provide a solid foundation for this week?

mattrm: So what are the newly revised goals? Also, was listening to a podcast that I thought might be of some interest... https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p06xg15f and also https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07fcfds 

MIA: the sheep; planetmarshall; Jackob; guy127917; David Staples; SFrancis; Rebecca Ting; lornajkelly

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AJM 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM: sounds like quite a bit of self-imposed pressure to perform in a window of opportunity? I guess the pressure can be productive, but if other things are contributing to not performing as hoped then maybe that pressure becomes counterproductive? Perhaps a good chance to develop your zen side -making sure you are getting satisfaction from days out regardless of the 'on-paper' success.

You've got it nailed on. A bit of pressure to achieve is good, but there is definitely a dark side.

It’s interesting, in that on paper it’s already been a pretty good year, probably my best year of sport onsighting since 2014/15, when I had a Euro road trip (2014) and comparatively speaking infinite amounts of training time and a Kaly trip (2015, pre children!). And my best year of trad climbing since 2013 without a shadow of a doubt, when I was basically unemployed and able to climb as much as I wanted for large chunks of the year so did more. But then I guess there’s that bit of me which would like to have that definite step upwards, rather than “equalling previous highs under more demanding circumstances”, especially with the knowledge that in itself that’ll be harder in future as the circumstances get more demanding with 2 little ones....

But hey. Not much climbing but it’s been a decent week. Feeling a bit better.

Monday and Tuesday was the usual hectic prep holiday rush at work. But I made a bit of a breakthrough, in that I *think* I found the key to unlock the largest cause of the stress - without wishing to bore anyone with the details of my very dull and indecipherable job, I was stuck in a position where I had two key people wanting very opposing things and no light at the end of the tunnel in terms of how to get to a point where someone didn’t end up losing out with associated collateral damage. But I think I found the missing piece of the jigsaw just before I left, and tossed it over to some other people to try to turn into a fully fledged solution whilst I’m gone.

Wednesday was mainly travel. 

Thursday we went for a walk, hauling the child around, for a few hours.

Friday we tried to go climbing. But still air and nearly 30 degree heat made a mockery of mere considerations such as shade, pretty sweaty going. Delightfully positioned crag but basically fell off everything hard. Usual alpine valley footsy hard to read grey limestone with stern grades.

Saturday it was a bit grotty so not much.

Sunday I’d hoped to go to Foron, which is supposed to be steeper thuggery and so easier onsight terrain, so the guide says. But sadly I spent about 3 hours awake in the middle of the night, brain just wouldn’t switch off, so instead went for a pleasant few hours walk, again towing the child to up the calorie burn, which I promptly undid by cooking tartiflette for dinner...

weather looks rubbish tomorrow, home Tuesday, hoping to climb the weekend.....

Post edited at 19:54
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AJM 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

I can do the two September ones, if no one else fancies a go...

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outdoors.nick 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Outdoors.nick: Well done on getting stuck in to Hanging Crack -am I right in thinking that type of route is your antistyle at the moment (compared to the bold slabs!)? Is it part of the plan to work antistyle routes? 

Ha cheers, yeah it's exactly my anti-style. With all the rain and dampness I haven't been feeling over confident to get on the run out slabs! I thought I'd take a couple of laps on my mate's project as a bit of strength training. Found it fun, but hard. Definitely feeling stronger than a few months ago though. 

This week has been another mainly indoors one. However as per one of my STG's I've avoided alcohol for a week now. Going to try and keep that up til the end of the month and see how it goes.  

Off for a break this week, Heading down to cornwall. Hopefully will be able to fit some climbing in as I love it down there!!

M: Rest (after a Sunday of lugging furniture around)

T: General laziness & errand running. 

W: Bouldering (indoors!). felt a bit naff but haven't bouldered indoors in a while and it was super busy which I never get on well with. 

T: Rest

F: Gym 

S: Lead Climbing (indoors): "Onsighted" the 6c slab and got to the last move on the 6C+ before I came off - next go will get it (if they haven't reset it by the time I go back!) . 7a felt quite far off, but not impossible. 

S: Gym

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AlanLittle 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Is the self-assessed lack of performance due to the lack of motivation, or vice versa, or a bit of both?!

Hard to say. Definitely a bit of Swanage intimidation factor in there, plus probably fatigue from the epic Norfolk-Dorset drive. In any case I'm primarily over to visit family, getting any climbing done at all is a bonus.

STG: Get some more climbing done on summer uk visit.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60

M: Dartmoor, Haytor with Sean. Bigger drive over from Weymouth than we were expecting, and very windy & showery when we got there. Fitted a couple of VS's in between the showers. Then we were standing around having an interesting chat about economic history, and speculating about why both Sri Lanka and Austria tend to be more adventurous with modern architecture than their bigger and culturally somewhat similar northwestern neighbours ... only to be impressed when a local rocked up in the brief evening dry spell & proceeded round his E1/2 soloing circuit. I normally have little patience with people who say they are uncomfortable watching soloists, but I confess this time I was.
T:   Big drive back to Norfolk
W: My annual visit to the excellent Highball in Norwich. Autobelays & circuits, half an hour shoulders & core in the well equipped weights room.
T:
F: Next big drive Norfolk - Manchester for Family Visit Phase 2.
S: Manchester Depot - forty minutes bouldering to warm up then circuits. I generally like the setting here, and the circuit boards are top: if one of my local walls had them I would live on them and be monstrously fit.
S: Had planned to meet up one of my new Kalymnos buddies in the Peak - sadly a non-starter given the weather.

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In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. More esoterica coming up though rain has put a dampener on my wirral exploration. 

Mon. Went to Moat Buttress at water cum jolly. I've been to WCJ loads of times but never been to Moat before so it was cool to have a whole buttress of new stuff to go at. Did a couple of 6c+ routes and a 7a first go then Moat People (7b+) after doing it bolt to bolt first. I didn't have a sequence at all but Id worked out where the rests were putting the draws in and managed to fudge a sequence on the fly between them. Nice to feel pumped but confident on a rope.

Tues. Rest

Wed. Another 5.30am esoterica mission. Went to  Hallam View Buttress which was a bit green and mingy. Just soloed 3 routes. The big face looks great but in need of a clean on abseil which probably isn't going to happen given that access is banned. Then to  Private Buttress which had 3 brilliant little routes on it. Worth the pathless wander around the woods to find it.

Thurs. 15km explore of the wirral way on the mtbs with the kids and about 30 pull ups in the park. 

Fri. Mtb 30km explore the other way down the trail with some extra bridleways thrown in too. 

Sat. 70 pull ups (off a big flatty - the underside of the holiday cottage spiral staircase!) and 70 press ups.

Sun. Crimpd floor core, crimpd static core, 5km flat run and an unexpected play on  Birkenhead Park Artificial Boulder.

Hopefully the monsoon season will end soon so I can explore the delights of Thor's Stone and The Breck before we go back to Sheffield on Wednesday. 

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Tyler 11 Aug 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Manchester Depot - forty minutes bouldering to warm up then circuits. I generally like the setting here, and the circuit boards are top: if one of my local walls had them I would live on them and be monstrously fit.

Ah shit, I could have come and met you to say hello if I'd known, I almost went anyway but laziness got the better of me. I don't suppose you are going tomorrow (Monday) evening?

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AlanLittle 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Tyler:

'fraid not. I have a family pass out tomorrow, & will either be out climbing somewhere - hopefully - or otherwise will go hillwalking in the rain.

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Tyler 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom

> High fives for the successful van debut! Is the van all set for the Pembroke trip now?

Getting there although I don't think I have the right wheels to get me on or off the campsite given the rain we are forecast.

> What's the latest with the home rig?

Now defunct for a while I have decided to paint up there and can't get to it!

> Got the weight/resistance levels established now?  

Introduced some new exercise (seated rows and behind neck pull downs) on the advice of my physio.

M: Depot Manc - A handful of laps on circuit board - more wasted miles

T: Weights at hotel

W: Weights at hotel

T: Went Aston Stone Wood on way home from work. Had a look around but decided to bail to Depot Sheffield. It didn't seem a bad place but I guess if it had been what I was looking for (lots of problems, clean, good landings etc) then I would have been before. As it was enjoyed a good session at the Depot as they've reset the reds and I got through a lot of them and didn't encounter many that looked impossible.

F: Rest

S: Lazy - panting in attic.

S: More painting and Rockover - might go more often as they have a short steepish wall with an auto belay which would be really good although the routes aren't the best. Fondled some portable fingerboards as it looks like I might be in Corby for a while, any recommendations, anyone?

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In reply to Tyler:

Which bits of Anston Stones did you go to? Bullet Roof, Dark Art Roof, Wave Wall and Ebola areas all have good landings and wave has loads of easier stuff to warm up on although it's a little higher than the other areas. 

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In reply to Tom Green:

I can do stats for the August one. 

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Ally Smith 12 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Morning Tom - Kilnsey is indeed FUBAR - thankfully I have other sport project options that are currently holding out against the dampness.

Week 32

M – Devil’s gorge – amazing dry conditions so got on the Hades/new bit/Canyonlands link. Dogged & cleaned and struggled with the vert crux on Underworld (first half of Hades). Also couldn’t get into the position I started last weeks dogging efforts from without hideous span move, so sacked it off and worked a higher traverse line. This has much better moves – a bunched rockover (no chance of anyone complaining it’s reachy here!) followed by a brilliant rollover with techer feet to avoid the exit barndoor. Then it’s a recovery challenge at the chains of Grand Canyon before smashing the Canyonlands extension. 8b?

T – Nuthin’

W – Also nuthin’

T – Big day out. Worked 8b newbie, which was harder work than expected owing to stretchy rope and lightweight 9a crusher belayer. Once I had a sequence, had 2 good pumper redpoint attempts, both ending at a damp slot. Maybe with the fresh arms of go #1 plus the tactic/draw skipping to go #2 I’d have got past the dampness and into the knee before the crux, which is very familiar territory. Maybe, but who knows. 7a OS warm-down. Crap route, but good to get something new done. 

F – Shoulders absolutely battered from roof redpoint action. Tried out the Eric Horst style tendon prehab. 25x press-ups in 20s (GCN challenge)

S – Garage clearance day, followed by Crimpd max hang test (-7.5kg for 7s). Also tested lock-off on campus rung at -2.5kg both arms (10s). Crimpd 8mm edge FB (+10kg; 7s x6, still feels steady) and Crimpd Max Hang on shallow front2 (BW; 10s x6). 25x curl, 30x press.

S – More garage clearance/grandparent wrangling/fingerboard & mount modifications. Boshed out the Eric Horst finger rehab routine and tested the new wide-grip pull-up holds. 10 reps felt hard, but also very specific to my current Kilnsey roof project.

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Niall_li 12 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Deload week for me this week, so no fingerboarding, just climbing (actually felt odd not getting my fingerboarding in!) Had felt really knackered for the previous week, and still pretty wiped on Monday, but seemed to perk up from Tuesday onwards. Hopefully the weather is getting all the rain out of it's system as my next 2 weekends have some climbing shaped timeslots in them!

M - Climbfit +30Kg 4x3 pull ups & +32.5kg 1x3 pullups, +12kg 4x5 dips, +24kg get up sit ups & russian twists. 3x6x60sec climbing circuits, knackering!

T - Rest

W - boulderworld, on the comp set. Really should've got myself a higher score this round on it, didn't really spend much time on it. Still, knocked off number 27 in pretty short order which is the highest i've every managed

T - rest, nephew's birthday party

F, S, Su - Mother in-laws for the weekend

Itching to get back at it this week after a fairly light week!

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the sheep 12 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Oops, loks like i missed a wek. Summer hols are playing havoc with the normal routine 

Anyway, was off with the kids all last week. Managed to squeeze a run in Mon-Sat getting around 6-7kms in in each day.

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Dandan 12 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Dandan: Glad to hear you've been keeping those fingers on the straight and narrow. Sounds like a nice outdoor session too.

Thanks Tom, yeah I've been going steady again this week, it has coincided with a low volume week on the plan which helps but the fingers feel pretty reasonable overall.

> Misinterpreted your surprise about 20th place in the comp... assumed it would be pleasant surprise rather than annoyance!

Sorry, a bit of context required perhaps, I came 2nd overall last year so it's a bit of a fall from grace! I managed to flash 4 out of 5 this week so maybe that will earn me a slightly better rank...

> Weight and flexibility progressing as planned?

Yes the weight has been going perfectly to plan which is great, I'm still 7kg above where I want to end up and already I feel 'light' again when on the wall, so I'm hoping to feel like a feather when I get to 63kg!
The training plan specified less stretching sessions this week which I adhered to, I should really have ignored it and done more but i'm still happy with how it's going.

M: Gym session - Shoulder stuff

T: Indoor Boulder - three short, hard routes in succession with 1 min rests, 6 sets. Plus some projecting time on hard problems (currently slopey ones for finger health). Snuck in the comp problems as warm ups and a bit of the projecting time.

W: Core

T: Nothing

F: DIY Club, various garden pottering

S: Indoor Routes - 8 on 5 off x3

S: Stretching - Legs, hips, bum, upper body, the works.

A lot more on my plate this week training-wise, as always the fingers will dictate exactly how much I get done. Unfortunately I will have to compress most of the climbing sessions into Tuesday and Wednesday due to scheduling, which isn't ideal.

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Steve Jones 12 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Steve Jones: Congrats on the Borrowdale race. Great result. V inspired by your hill fitness. Did you manage to fit those climbing schedules in to your week? I guess the good news is you'll be mostly working different muscle groups, so shouldn't burn out too much?

Thanks - pretty pleased with Borrowdale, although always think I could have done a little better. I have bruised a metatarsal or something so running is a bit painful at the moment, so will be doing more cycling. I did get my lunchtime session in - think I might have overdone it a bit with the dead hangs last week so eased off those for now.

M - 45 mins at Kong on lunch, mostly bouldering. Going for volume and constant climbing as limited for time. Evening easy 45 mins on the road bike.

T - Strength training in am. 20 min FTP test on turbo trainer in evening - but bailed

W - 45 mins at Kong on lunch, mostly routes. Steel Fell race (4k, 360m) - knocked about 90s off my pb.

T - rest day

F - 45 mins at Kong on lunch, bouldering & routes. FTP test again in eve (137w)

S - 20 mins warm up on turbo, then parkrun (19:45 ish - hit a pebble right on my dodgy foot!) then 20 mins turbo cool down. Then 45 mins strength/core work in afternoon

S - Interval session on turbo (6x6mins) in am followed by nearly 4 hrs at Kong with a friend. 90 mins of which were spent in the cafe, and looking at HR data about an hours actual climbing, but comfortably doing 6a's and did a 6a+, so progress there.

STG (weeks)- keep up the regular, if short, visits to Kong, and next week (weather permitting) get some trad done (some lakes classic rock). Get doing some lead indoors rather than the fixed ropes. Also incorporate more flexibility stuff.

MTG (months) -  err- up my grade a bit . . . Get stuck into the Bowderstone crack by end of the year. Try and arrange some sport climbing in Italy around my race/holiday. Assuming it's on, do Kong's Bouldering league in winter (preferably not coming last).

LTG (next year)- Lakes Classic Rock run/climb next spring/summer

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SFrancis 13 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

I apologise for my truancy, I've not been well with some issue with my gut and therefore didn't do anything of note or feel like posting. I'm finally starting to feel better, looks like most likely cause was a peptic ulcer but I am waiting for an endoscopy (possibly forever?) to get full diagnosis but meds are working. Misdiagnosis early on led to advice such from the Dr such as take "ibuprofen" and other poor advice that led to lots of sleepless nights, trips to A&E and just general compounding of the issue.

Hopefully will be able to get some climbing/training done this week and have something to post for next fit club. 

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Powderpuff 13 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hey Tom,

Thanks for looking after fit club for so long , you deserve a rest, hope you have a good trip.

If sessions were well spaced it was more luck than good organisation on my part! Can barely remember last week but here goes.

Monday: biked to wall and climbed easy problem up to v3.

Wednesday(I think): repeated two v4s and one v5, then made decent progress on v6 at the wall..its possible Tom PMA

Planned to do a finger board session later on in the week but fingers didn't feel too good and ended up busy with other things. Youngest sons birthday on Sunday, very good day

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David Staples 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom,

Seems I have been MIA for much longer than I thought I would be! I was away in Scotland for a couple of weeks which was nice but have been quite busy with other bits since getting back so not much to update on....

Scotland was great as it always is and was a nice break for a couple of weeks with the mrs. I didn't do anywhere near as much climbing as I would have liked as instead we really got into munro bagging. The Mrs having never done any munros came back home having bagged 12 in less than two weeks so all in all a great trip.

Not much climbing last week or so far this week as psych is a bit low  I have managed a few evenings out on Portland after works and had a good day last Saturday trying a few 7a's down Blacknor south / far south. Need to get the wheels turning again.

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Tom Green 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Last week started badly with a training-induced injury, but improved.

Week 32:

2/3 runs. 0/2 core sessions. 3/2 Climbing sessions.

M: Indoor climbing: Max Hangs -good progression. Weighted pull-ups -disaster! Pulled a muscle in my neck/back. Drove home in agony, trying not to weep like a small child!

T: Alpine start for work. Back still v sore.

W: Rest.

T: Alpine start for work. Quick solo of Poor Man's Peuterey (S 4a) between jobs -fab top pitch!

F: Trail run. 55min Z1. 8km, 195m vert gain, 6:35min/km avg. Techy, especially in road shoes as I couldn't find my trail shoes!

S: Indoor climbing at Boardroom. Min on: Min off on circuit board. AeroCap sesh on autobelays.

S: Trail run. 60min Z1. 10km, 270 vert gain, 5:50min/km avg. Techy.

Week 33 Plan:

3 runs, 2 Core sessions, 2 Climbing sessions.

STG (end of Aug):

Minimum three runs per week until alps trip.

Minimum two core sessions per week.

Start ticking 666 climbing goals.

MTG (end of Sept):

Four Alpine routes off tick-list.

Continue ticking 666 climbing goals.

LTG (end of 2019):

Finish 666 goals.

Redpoint Jaz (M8)

Run Welsh 3000s in a day.

Two big Alpine routes off tick list.

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 2/6; Hands 3/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes (0/6)

6 E-points in a day 

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Ardo 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hey Tom, the Rasp, well... what to say. I'd compare it to Right Unconquerable: similar repeated moves and a surprising top out, only on worse holds and overhanging by 20 degrees! I missed all of the knee bar rests, so that doesn't help. James McHaffie rocked up just as we were leaving, so I didn't have time to give him my beta, (hohoho), but I suspect he'd have scraped though ok.

Mo: General walking, 8.0 miles. Rest day, as tired after weekend.
Tu: General walking, 9.4 miles. Park/country walk.
We: General walking, 9.8 miles. 25 probs; MH: 4*12/150; IDH: 3*4*10:10/60.
Th: General walking, 6.9 miles. 5 Sport routes, finally ticking Megalithic Man at Horseshoe.
Fr: General walking, 9.5 miles. Park walk and van DIY club.
Sa: General walking, 9.5 miles.  Park/country walk.
Su: General walking, 9.6 miles. 8 problems, 10 solo and 5 trad routes: busy day at Woodhouse Scar.
Weight: 10st 7lb/bf 16.0%

Training, sport climbing, bouldering, trad, van DIY and non-birthday beers: only thing missing was some work on the flat, so another good week.

Next week's plan
Same as last week:
Keep improving diet.
More climbing/training.
Do more work on van/flat.
 

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Lornajkelly 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi!  I'm alive!  Life got away from me for a while - mental health took a couple of nosedives, the move was a brute in that heatwave, then I had a new job to settle into, then I got a tattoo so wasn't allowed to do any exercise!  But I can confirm that I went for a run this evening!  I took a week off after finishing couch to 5k so I could pack, then I tried to get into it again and it was awful so I stopped, and haven't been since.  So I'm back down to week 3.  It's super demoralising to have got so far and feel like I've lost it.  Also my shoulder still hurts most of the time now, so I'm going to have to see a physio about that before I can climb.  Unfortunately it'll have to be a summer of running and hiking, because by the time I've got the go-ahead from a physio it'll be winter again :'(.  Next year is better than never, though!

STG:  maintain three runs and a swim each week for the rest of August

MTG:  lead something outdoors before the end of 2019 (maybe.  Depends what's up with my shoulder)

LTG:  lead 5 VS outdoor by end of 2020

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Bones [:B 15 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Bones: Congrats on the comp -that's an awesome result! Janja Garnbret needs to watch her back! The Welsh trip sounds epic -especially your Thursday ;-p Has this week seen a strong start to the running training plan?

Haha, my thoughts exactly. I think the final problems were definitely very similar in grade/hardness to the world cup ones. Definitely. Wales was great, wanting to plan another little challenge soon that also finishes with massive sandwiches and chocolate.

Running has gone very well. The plan is 4 times per week and I have been managing 3 so far. Have been consistent for a couple of weeks now and already seen improvement in times and recovery. I am possibly away the week after next but plan to keep it up.

Mon: gym - legs, currently on 40kg x 10 front squats which seem totally fine until around rep 7. Afternoon 20 min easy run.

Tues: last boulder/roped climb at the castle for a while - wasn't really feeling it for some reason so didn't last long.

Weds: gym - calisthenics. Good boulder session at Hackney Wick. Tried the climb I slipped off at the comp and it was totally fine without sweaty palms. Couldn't do the dynamic problem. Have been working on these. How do you run along a wall???

Fri: Morning gym - had to carry people, not a fan of these touching exercises! Afternoon 40 min interval run: 3 mins race pace, 2 mins rest pace (walk) x 5 sandwiched between a warm up/cool down jog.

Sat: rest

Sun: Morning bouldering at Mile End was excellent. Trying hard at dynamic moves, failing but trying and improving. Afternoon - 40 min easy run.

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biscuit 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom.

I managed to stay quite restrained during the wedding. At least in relation to food. Free booze is always hard to turn down. 

It was another week of similar. No climbing, rehab on my arm and my leg.

Another week of school holiday duties (which i'm now near the end of) and then back to it. 

I've signed up for the BOB (vet's) so it'll be good to get some training done with a target. As I sit here typing this to the sound of torrential rain again outside goals seem a bit unrealistic. My plan was to set up for a WInter of training so this should put me in a good place. 

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In reply to Tom Green:

Sorry Tom and thanks for all you’ve done - holiday will be well deserved!

I exist but generally failing at the moment. Still ankle injured and wondering if there was something that didn’t show up on the X ray that I should get an MRI for... also compounded by doing lots of driving to the home my mum is in. I will put down three weeks as it will then look like a good week

- Cornwall VDiffs in approach shoes. Would never have got round to climbing these uninjured so I guess that’s a bonus. Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge (VD) Land's End Long Climb (VD)

- Swanage one 5+ sport route and realised that high stepping is still out/ Lulworth DWS couple of laps of The Maypole (HVS 5b) but couldn’t commit ankle to anything harder. To quote AJM “well you were never going to get up that with footwork that shit” 😜. Some kayaking and sea swimming. Good to meet Alan.

- Peak drive-by. Couple of sessions of bouldering mileage at the Unit with enforced down-climbing and attempted one-legged landings where necessary. Desperation walk in to Gardom’s (negotiating fence with missing stile is the crux) to repeat the V4 which can definitely be done with one leg.

Yoga at least once a week. Poor eating, poor sleeping, too much driving.

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