UKC

Hi All,

Quick place holder. Will post up stats tomorrow.

Apologies!

T

I'm going to sneak in super early, which is rather unlike me at the moment.

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 9lbs

M - Rest

T - Brant Fell

W - Rest

T - Brant Fell

F - Lots of driving

S - 3 miles

S - Rest

Was a fairly relaxing week in the Lakes.  I remembered how awful the main section of Bowness was.  Still we had good weather.  Well as relaxing as chasing after a toddler gets.  There was a plan to walk up Catbells, but my wife wasn't feeling well, so we sacked it off.  Feeling a bit more motivated and certainly keen to get the podge off.  It's crept up again.  I've spent today cleaning and doing DIY.  During that I found my copy of racing weight, so I'm going to start counting my points again.

Sep avg - 54% (blimey!)

Year avg - 41%

The averages are passable I guess.  Glad I'm close to hitting 50+ this month, that'd be good.

Hi All. Apologies for the delay. Life!

Hope you have all had a good week... training/crushing/both!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 1  

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_652-710152

Posters: 

AJM -Had never heard of Haggis, but it looks like a gem! Sorry to hear about the shoulder -what's the deal? Rotator cuff or something more involved? Must be frustrating with those epic plans. However, your three options look like win, win and win... Push hard and you could sneak in one of those goals, but if not you have the satisfaction of knowing you gave it a big effort (just don't do any permanent damage!). Backing off the grade and bagging stars instead of E-points would be pretty dreamy -it's the excuse you need to get on those ace routes that you always walk past on the way to harder stuff. And spending time with the fam prior to new arrival can only be a great thing to do... so I reckon there are no bad options for you!  

AlanLittle -Good work on the 7a... any progress on the steeper one this week? What have you decided is the best protocol for your max hangs? Sticking with the crimped protocol or back to the higher weight/longer rest?

biscuit -The pistol squat back story makes sense. Definitely sounds like a good thing to keep on top of. Good effort sticking to your detailed week plan. Same again this week? You've inspired me to start planning each day's training more specifically at the start of each week. Hopefully it will stop me hitting Wednesday and realising there's no practical way of hitting my week's targets!

Somerset Swede Basher -Smashing the 8As at the moment. Must be satisfying to have ticked that mini-section off. A break from the Tor now or have you got your eye on anything else? What's Let's Get Ready to Randall (f8A+) like? Would this be a natural progression?

Tyler -Firstly, thanks for the offer to stat from November. How are you feeling about the op? Nervy or just relieved to have it booked in? Will this spark a return to the mountains after your Cuillin inspiration earlier this year? Sounds like a productive week last week. Any DOMS from the painting? (Or is that just me?!)

Ally Smith -Congrats on Rupert the Bear! Surely you must be close to exhausting Devils Gorge now?! ;-p I'm relieved to hear that's two handed on the 8mm (I couldn't hold BW on them when I had a quick try at the Boardroom this week -obviously blamed it on the heat and humidity!) How's the hols?

SFrancis -Great varied week. Sounds like a solid prehab plan. How have you worked out the right weight for the eccentric curls? Hope you managed to get out on one of the sunny days this week.

Paul16 -Decent bike mileage and ascent last week! Did you dig out those scales to get a baseline, before you bike away too many kilos?! I don't know the routes for your sport goals. What will be the challenges for each? Will it be a case of working on finger strength, endurance, or just getting on and working them?!

the sheep -Sorry to hear about the hernia -but glad that it isn't going to interfere to much in the immediate term. How did you get on on Saturday? Happy with your time?

Steve Jones -Happy Birthday! I know you said it wasn't the best training week, but you still appear to have put some good sessions in so don't beat yourself up too much! Has moving the bike to a more prominent spot helped so far? Also, when looking at grade progress with the bouldering, have you stepped back to think about what you find easy, what you find hard, etc? 

Ardo -Nice work getting three trad sessions in. That's automatically a good week! Commiserations on Suspense -what were the lessons that would get it ticked off next time?! Did the creaky ankle pass the test of a longer walk this week?

Bones -Solid week. I reckon three running sessions is pretty good going, given that you're not dropping the gym sessions. I'll be interested to hear what you get out of the running group hive mind... I'm always curious as to how 'real runners' structure their high and low intensity work when targeting different race types/distances. Are you doing any speed work at the moment?

Tom Green -Heed Guy's advice from last week and sort out some proper 'numbers' for the prehab work!Well done on rediscovering the love of running up hills. But stop avoiding strength sessions -find a way of making them interesting?!

Rebecca Ting -hope life stuff is behaving as well as can be expected. Sounds like you've had some pretty decent days out given your one-legged pirate status. Out of interest, how is yoga on the ankle? I would have thought some of the positions put a reasonable amount of force through the joint? Also, thanks for the reminder to never revisit Symond's Yat! -horrible place!! 

Liamhutch89 -So is Ben's Groove now Liam's Groove?! Sounds like you are smashing it at the moment, especially given that it's still a bit warm and greasy on the grit! Were Barry Kingsize and Pedestal Arete first ticks or repeats? Either way, it must be pretty satisfying to be finding them cruisy. What is the plan for those 7B+s? Do you feel you need to train/work on anything in particular or will it just be a case of putting the time in on the problems?

guy127917 -Great to have you back, mate! And you couldn't be more right about me not forming a prehab habit with that vague approach! Dammit! What is going to help you get your training mojo back? I might be way off here, but... I have a sneaky suspicion that you need an outdoor goal to give a bit of inspiration. If steep bouldering is your current thing, then how about going shopping for a steep project to test yourself against... something at Parisellas, or Peak lime? I'm sure Ally or Swede can give you some savage sandbags to work towards!

MIA: outdoors.nick; Niall_li; planetmarshall; Powderpuff.

Cheers Tom,

Had a really good run on the Saturday, Time didnt really come in to it as we had quite a lot of our club members do the race who were not used to trail running especially on a self navigation route too. We therefore decided to run it as more of a social with check points along the way where we would all meet up and make sure no one got left behind. All in all a lovely scenic run in glorious weather 

Week went as follows;

Monday, rest

Tuesday, 1km swim and 5k evening run

Wednesday, rest

Thursday, 1km swim

Friday 1km swim

Saturday, 16km trail run

Sunday, swim gala with the kids and bike mending

Just back from 2 weeks in Font, itching to go back already and psyched for training. Got my eyes on my next Fairhead project as well, will hopefully go down much more quickly than eat it

Didn't manage any 7As in Font, but in retrospect I think I was optimistic as a first timer, particularly as I think the style is quite different to Fairhead. Got some 6Bs done, a load of circuit stuff and one 6C - Duel dans le Lune, which was an amazing climb and went down pretty quickly (It was also 30 degrees) which I was pretty pleased with. Tried 2 7As while I was there, Egoiste and Chasseur de Prises, only spent 1 session on each and was getting places on both of them, so felt positive. 

One interesting bit of feedback that I've taken away is that i'm a pretty static climber (who can also dyno) which is great on some problems but very intense and not the most efficient on others. something to work on! Was very noticeable on Chasseur de prises, I was static through the opening sequences, while the German guy also trying it, was climbing it with much more momentum and saving much more energy. I guess the best way to work on it would be to consciously try and reclimb things in that style?

An OK week. Slightly disorganised, so didn't manage to fit in all of the planned sessions. More planning ahead needed this week.

Week 38:

3/3 hours Z1. 3/2(!) Climbing Sessions. 1/2 Core and Strength Sessions.

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Trail Run. 55min Z1. 7.25km at 7:25/km. Hilly. Techy.

T: Trad at Ramshaw. A few routes to add to 666 goals. Particularly happy to cruise The Crank, after falling off it last year. Seems like concentrating on improving my jamming is paying off.

F: Hill Run. 60min Z1. 9km at 6:40/km. Hilly. V Techy.

S: Indoor Climbing (on a sunny Saturday -the shame!), Core and Max Strength, Easy trail run (to feel less guilty about wasting a sunny day!) -Strava fail, but 55min Z1, mostly flat and non-techy.

S: Indoor climbing with bro and neices. Max Hangs and unstructured bouldering. Shoulders starting to feel v tweaky.

Week 39 Plan:

3 hours Z1.

2 Climbing Sessions.

2 Core and Strength Sessions.

3 Prehab sessions of TheraBand exercises (12 reps; 3 sets) (elbow exercises to be added the following week).

STG (End Oct):

Front Squat 3RM: 55kg (Currently 40kg)

Deadlift 3RM: 65kg (Currently 45kg)

Ice tool One-arm Hangs: +5kg BOTH arms (Currently BW)

Minimum 500m running vert gain per week (Avg 621m)

Redpoint Subculture (M6+) and Don't Tumble (M6+)

Tick off 666 goal routes.

MTG (End Dec):

666 Goals

Redpoint Jaz

Two big alpine routes from my little black book!

Welsh 3000s in a day.

LTG (End March 2020):

Scottish VII

Two winter alpine routes from my little black book!

SkiMo summit (TBC).

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 2/6; Hands 4/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes (1/6)

6 E-points in a day

Cheers Tom. Went to weigh myself last night but batteries have died on the scales and typically it's one of those watch type batteries which I didn't have a spare for. Will have a weigh tonight and see what the score is. The challenge for me is definitely endurance based. I've only started working it the past couple of months but already seeing progress indoors. Should be able to get on some sport this weekend to test that in the real world.

Progress on goals set Sept 2019 -

STG: Feel like I'm adopting a training regime into my life pretty well. Sure there will be weeks when it falls down but I can roll with that. Not much cardio this week but needed a break from the bike after last week.

MTG (6 months): (Redpoint Rubicon 7a at WCJ & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+ at Chee Dale Upper, head point San Melas E3 5c at Roaches) - Had first look at San Melas this weekend. Fantastic smeary grit climbing but bold start above a horrible landing. It'll go but not for a while. Ardo has suggested Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) and I'm liking the flat grassy landing of that one so may swap objectives once I've looked at it.

LTG (12 months): (Redpoint Brachiation Dance or Garderobe at WCJ both 7b+ ) Obviously I'm in the early days of working towards this one. Training proper starts 12th Oct so will get regular feedback from that point onwards.
Last week
Shifted from endurance to power endurance in training, and will do this for two weeks before switching back to endurance for 4 weeks.

Two training sessions, one on a crimpy boulder circuit and the other doing doubles on routes.

M - Power endurance @ the Chapel, 3 x circuit at 6b - which is really is 6b, no ego massaging at the Chapel! Managed 28 moves first time, 20 second and 14 last. 10 minutes rests between each. Warm up: TheraBand and core, easy circuits on 5 and 10 degree boards; Finished session with: push-ups 3x12, 3x3 slow pull-ups. I suspect I was tired from riding the day before, so next week will be a better measure of where I'm at.
T - Rest
W - Power endurance at Awesome Walls. Doubles on 6b+ routes. Again amazed by my powers of recovery now - no way was I capable of this two months ago. Format: 4 sets, 1 min between reps, 10 mins between sets. Added a recovery set on 5+. Session felt tough, definitely had to dig deep to get through some of the reps. Good pump going on.
T - Rest
F - Suppose to be out on the MTB but failed due to life
S - Trad at Roaches Skyline. Had a first look at San Melas. Started head pointing process and managed to get to the top after several attempts. Really delicate on the upper part, exactly the type of climbing I love. Clean and on lead feels a long way off though, especially with that landing. Did a few bits around VS which felt straight forward, so not lost my feel for grit despite the time off it. Felt whacked by mid-afternoon.
S - Picked up a cold type virus from the other half so spent the day feeling crap and sitting on the sofa. Explains the lack of energy Sat afternoon.

This week I'll have to see how the virus progresses so may be a slow start.

Basically, stupid techniqueless thuggery on Underbare has crocked it somehow. When it’s flared up I get pain in the shoulder socket, like an impingement, when I pull my shoulder blades back/together. Not sure exactly what I’ve done to cause that, but it doesn’t like pulling inwards that much nor graunchy thugs moves.

quiet week this week. The family have been ill, which I’ve dodged largely but caught the edge of a bit, left me a bit low energy/psyche. Didn’t go out Tuesday as I was saving my holiday for Friday, but didn’t get out then either - albeit justified after the fact by reports of too high a sea anyway, so I didn’t miss out.

Got some useful life admin done at the weekend - sold the van amongst other things - but managed amidst the van sale stuff to sneak in a session at the excellent depot in Birmingham. Did 19 from the v3-5 circuit and tried a lot of the others - had no more than a few goes on anything so in reality probably mostly V3-4 end but a good variety of problems and styles with good setting. And whilst my shoulders felt worked the next day they felt so in a balanced way, not concentrated in my left shoulder! Which I hope bodes well.

Hopefully out on Portland Friday and Saturday but the weather isn’t looking prime right now.

been thinking about winter/newborn training priorities..... would welcome any thoughts from those who know my climbing well enough to analyse strengths and weaknesses.

Not banking on a lot of chance to get to the wall or outdoors, so possibly a home focused programme. Some time doing a more strict crimp grip on the BM micros feels like a good use of time. I can always do more on pockets. I feel like my shoulder engagement (hanging comfortably one arm off a bar with shoulder nicely engaged, for example) and overall one-arm strength (offset pull-ups etc) could do with work. And maybe rings, trx, core, and antagonists should get a look in?!

unsure re next goals as unsure what next climbing trips post microAJM might look like. But more boulder strength is likely to be the long term weakness most worth addressing.....

Hi Tom,

I've been MIA for several to many weeks now, so much so I'm no longer making the MIA list... In short, it's because I got a new job and am in the process of moving my life halfway across the country. So I've had very little spare time for either training, or posting about training! However, in the interest of building good habits and now being the ideal time to do so... I'm back. I've gone to the dark side, having recently got a (remote) lattice assessment and have a shiny new training plan on its way to me in the next few weeks. Quite excited to have access to some more extensive training facilities than I have in the past.

Last Week (2019.38)

M - Yoga

T - open indoor bouldering session, problems <7A

W - Yoga; similar bouldering to previous day

T - Yoga

F - Yoga; Lattice mini assessment. Pull up 2RM of 82.9kg, 7 second lattice edge hang of 100.4kg (alongside a repeaters-type test)

S - Parkrun in 22:02 (haven't run in ages + cold); outdoor bouldering in the pass, got up King of Drunks stand (V5) but couldn't quite get the sit. Decent goes at Hellraiser (f7A) and Bulling 747 (V6) but no luck on either.

S - Yoga; 5 x 5 pull ups @ 74.7kg (90ish % of max)

Really?  I quite like it.  Some great fun routes there.

These were first ticks as i've only been bouldering outside for around 2 months. Indoors I've always found shoulder/core strength to be good for me and finger strength to be a weakness (i'm ~85 kg). Outside i'm not really finding fingers to be a weakness just yet at these grades and its slopers im struggling with which indicates core and shoulders! 

Speaking of slopers I spent an hour working Horn Rib 7A+ and came home fruitless, but it felt close. No other notable sends as i've been busy and/or rained off. Other training notes:

max hang sessions 3 x per week with steady improvement

managing more of the V7 problems at the depot which I usually struggle with. 

deadlift 200kg x 2 reps during a general strength workout

aiming for a 45 degree board session tonight at the depot!

Crimpd, on the assumption that they know more than I do.

On a no wait / indefinite rest protocol at the moment though, see below.

STG: Get back on some local projects, weather permitting. I tried; maybe next weekend
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2, no chance.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60. This is looking pretty unfeasible, rethink ongoing.

M: Half an hour stretching
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Once again trying to break my 6b+ish plastic plateau by trying harder things. Looking good - got on a roof 7a and one-hanged it on my second try. Should get this next week, in which case it will be the steepest 7a I've ever succeeded on. Which would definitely be progress.
W: 
T: Beastmaker. Crimpd max hangs. 
F: Bike one hour.
S: Family errands, definitely going down with some kind of lurgy
S: ... which I tried to ignore / convince myself I was feeling better because I had arranged to meet up with a friend in Zillertal & didn't want to leave him in the lurch. Turned out I needn't have worried because we would have been climbing as a three anyway, which was just as well because I did two 6a warmups then needed a lie-down. For the rest of the day. Oh well; Zillertal is a nicer spot to lie around convalescing than my sofa. Fantastic looking crag too (Bergstation), will definitely have to go back when I'm actually in a fit state to do something.

Thanks Tom. No more 8As in the pipeline though as I've nothing else worked at present. I've been thinking that I might try Back Street Mime Artist when it cools down as its quick to get to from my house and possibly suits me (sideways shuffle rather than big pull!). With the randal start at the tor there aren't any hard moves on the extension start but it is a lot of moves! Probably worth 8c rather than 8A+ and I ain't no route climber! I did have a little tickle the other day though and you might be able to engineer a cheeky knee bar rest before the start of cave problem. Ally has done Cave Slave I think (same start) , did you find a rest there Ally? Managed some training this week rather than just climbing. A fruitless session at griff on Friday though.

Mon. Repeaters on the 28mm edge. Found it hard! Think I did 7 sets. 

Tues. 11km run

Wed. Weighted hangs 10x 10sec hangs on the 28mm edge with +23kgs. 

Thurs. Rest

Fri. Griffs buttress. Fell off the same move linking bovine into ovine (in isolation not even from the start!) repeatedly for 90mins then went home. I swear that problem is 7C not 7B+, find that move desperate. That's the second session now and I've still not worked that move out though I can do all the rest of it. 

Sat. 30km mtb ride. 

Sun. Had an evening session at the Depot Sheffield. Only been once before and just went on the circuit board the first time. Went for a boulder milage session and did most the red v3-v5 circuit. Didn't find any I couldn't do but forgot they closed at 9 not 10 so didn't quite finish the lot. Nice to do loads of moves. 

Thanks.

Guess I'm just used to be able to get out running on the fells for hours at a a time, so managing 90 mins at the wall or an hour on th eturbo trainier feels like I've not done enough! Moving the bike hasn't helped so far - it was to nice to stay indoors, but the front whell is a bit broken so couldn't take it our side, so did nothing

Looking at both the bouldering and routes I've done (and not been able to do) I think I'm better at the more crimpy stuff. Anything with slopers or thuggy moves and I'm no good. Or anything that involves odd moves or technieque I'm not so good at.  I noticed this week half way up a 6b+ that I failed on that I could actually stay on the wall handless on some pretty small footholds with a bit of balance/core, which felt like progress on the technique front.

M - 70 mins at the wall

T - 60 mins turbo trainier intervals

W - 1hr 40 at the wall. Inherited a 2nd hand pair of slightly more techy/smaller shoes for bouldering from Chirs at Kong. Also did some lead stuff up to 6a

T - Rest

F - Met a chap off Facebook for a climb at Bramcrag after work.Blencathra Badger (5c), The Long Good Friday (5b), Brothers in armsBrothers in Arms (6a+), &Goodbye Mr Major (6a). Lovely evening.

S - Went to Langdale hoping to do Bracket and Slab Climb (VS 4b) and Ash Tree Slabs (VD) and 'C' Route (S 4b), unfortuatly my mate got the start of B&S wrong so we ended up doing Prelude (D) (I've ran over tougher ground in fell races) until we ended up below the Bracket on B&S. As we were in a three and had wasted time we didn't do the other routes, but it was a good day out and I loved the last 2 pitches of B&S (even if we did the easier chimney).

S - Tried to turbo but bailed after 10 mins. Went to Kong 90mis, did some new 6b's

Sept' stats

Number of climbs = 9
Number of exercise sessions = 20
Number of days with exercise = 17 (73%)
Total distance = 148 km
Total duration = 18 hrs

Other interesting stats:

'Starting' weight (i.e. when I could still run and wasn't climbing)

70.3kg (and it has been under 70kg at times this summer), 9.4kg fat (13.4%), muscle mass 57.8kg

as of 22/9

74kg, 11.3kg fat (15.3%), muscle mass 59.5 kg

I've sacked of the idea of trying to maintain weight. I figured if I'm going to overeat I might as well bulk up! (But did not weights last week)!

STG - keep doing what I'm doing - add more weight stuff. I figure focus on the 'big' moves - bench press, pull up, squat and deadlift. but how to fit in specific pull up training if I'm climbing 3-4 time a week? then add ancilliory exercises in the 5 min 'rest' between each set of the above. Do more outside, weather permitting.

MTG - still want to get out and work on Bowderstone crack, but not even started yet. build up to 10 pull ups! Do more outside, weather permitting.

LTG - Start specific finger strength stuff and weighted pull ups once I can do the 10 pull ups, hopefully by Jan.

Suspense: get on it with better connies, (was really warm), trust the gear, (it held several falls), and get them feet high. It's a cool route and looking forward to getting back on it. Ankle got a few miles done on Wednesday, but beer may have masked any issues!! It's feeling better, so need to get the higher ankle walking boots on to make sure it copes with them and then we're off and running, so to speak.

Mo: General walking, 9.3 miles. ~6 mile park walk.
Tu: General walking, 6.7 miles. 4 trad routes @ Stanage, plus ¾ of Dark Continent, (down-climbed from crux to preserve the on-sight!). 
We: Canoeing, 13 miles. Epic day of kingfishers and squirrel rescue.
Th: General walking, 11.1 miles. ~7 mile country walk and then too many beers.
Fr: General walking, 8.9 miles. ~6 mile park walk, walking off hangover.
Sa: General walking, 8.1 miles. 4 trad routes @ Roaches.
Su: General walking, 8.6 miles. ~6 mile park walk.
Weight: 10st 7lb/bf 16.2%

Climbing, long day canoeing, beers and climbing: just a nice week getting out, about and enjoying the weather. Might have done some more stuff, but can’t remember it.

Next week's plan
More climbing/training.
Do more work on van/flat.

Ha well you said you missed being held to account!

I think my key to being motivated for training is seeing consistent gains, and the problem with outdoor stuff is that unless I block out 3/4 whole weekends a month, progress on outdoor goals feel pretty random. I think for me, going outdoors works better more as a test than a strict goal. For example, I'm thrilled that for the Matterhorn I could turn up with the skills and fitness to get it done without much stress. I hate the idea of having to orchestrate months of training and a few days of holiday for alpine goals, but if I can get trips in and do some fun objectives then brilliant. Similarly I can't wait to get back to Parisellas or Peak bouldering but that isn't going to drive me for 3/4 training sessions a week.

I'm going to pick a few of the routes on the mile end woody and try and get them done- generally I seem to be able to progress on routes up to about v7 at a rate of approx 1 hard move/week.

Monday: 45 mins run

Tuesday; 45 mins run, bouldering- got on the woody. made progress on a few routes

Wednesday: 40 minutes 6 a side football

Thursday: 45 minutes run. Back on the board, more progress, just the last move to do now on "easy start". Did a few of the new competition problems as well.

Friday: rest

Saturday: Rest/drinking day at 20/220 finals

Sunday: Rest 

So 3 runs and 3 bouldering sessions, and I'm posting now, so good week for me.

This week I will do 3 runs again including a longer run, but just 2 boulder sessions. Next post will include 3 goal routes for the board.

Just realised I responded to you in an old post:

Oooh fantastic. Can't go far wrong going in that direction. The best bit of advice I have is buying the dehydrated Denner mushroom risotto - delicious! If you go to Zermatt will you park the van somewhere and travel in? I assume you are planning to stay in the van?

Good meal beta! I'm going to add that to the dehydrated mac and cheese tip that alexm gave me to make the trip a culinary success, regardless of any climbing success!

Yep, the (vague) plan is to park in the valley, travel in and do some combo of huts/winter rooms and bivvying. Given the time of year, it's a slightly vulnerable plan... could be magic or could be a total write-off! Part of the reason I sacked it off last year was struggling to work out logistics for cheap #vanlife vs no-van Zermatt.

What did you do for Zermatt accommodation?

I'd like to get on this too - looks like a good option for lantern sessions also.

Yep - the whole section between Ben's roof start and the cave sit start is dependent on kneebars for me, but only the final knee at the start of cave Sitter is bomber enough for a reasonable rest. You can thread your arm around the back of your knee to make it less core intensive, but it's still a strenuous position.

Thanks for all your stats over the preceding weeks

Holidays were good - gluttony factor was high. Need a beer free week now. Journey home was a bit of a mare owing to Thomas Cook collapse, but it could have been worse - some of the people on our plane to Manchester were rerouted via Prague to Gatwick and then coach home. We merely had a 27hour delay, including a night in a cockroachy airport hotel.

Week 38

M – An-cap repeaters. Crimpd 80% 7/3/5/3 +30kg x6. 20min rest. Same again on middle2 @+18kg. 10x 1on/1off Aero-cap FoC. Some rings n’ stuff.

T – Travel to Greece.

W – Greece. Nuthin’

T – Greece. Front-3 repeaters at bodyweight. Bunch of hanging legs raises, pull-ups and press-ups.

F – Greece. Also nuthin’

S – Greece. Aero-power 7/3/12/4 at bodyweight. Fairly steady apart from cord mount on portable fingerboard snapped and I took a flier into the villa garden!

S – Greece. Bunch of hanging legs raises, pull-ups and press-ups.

M – Gentle jolly up highest mtn on Kephalonia (~1650m) but actually only walked the final 100m height gain.

T – 1st attempt at travelling home from Greece. Spent whole day at the airport with the delay by xx hours growing longer and longer until they finally bused us to a dodgy hotel at midnight.

W – Up early, got bumped off first flight home. Pleaded with CAA for clemency and miraculously got last seats home direct to Manchester. Feeling pooped.

Sounds good. I've just sent you a PM with my mobile number so give me a shout when it cools down for a session on BSMA. 

Sounds like a weird reverse version of a dry-tooling fig-four! 

Thanks for doing the doing the stats as always.

Finally starting to feel back on form after the illness.

Week 16th - 22nd

M: Rest

T: Max hangs 5 x 95kg 1/2 crimp, 4 x 3 finger OH 90kg, woody session, TRX - IYT and prone I 3x5, Core workout, pull ups 4 x 3 - 88kg.

W: 30min jog

T: Rest

F: Headed to Portland absolutely stunning day, put draws in Sweet Smell of Success (7b) and then climbed it next go, vindication after falling of it the other day. Someone had draws in Stay Golden (7b) and I was pleased to fight my way up this first go. Got on Frazzled (7b) but sun was baking by that point, and it felt a fair bit harder than the other two. Sweet smell was easily the best of the trio, but they have to be 3 of the finest climbs on portland.

S: 10km jog - z1ish, chilled.

S: FB, a few routes 6c+ to 7a, TRX - prone I, pushup, leg curl and then a core workout.

Next weeks goals:

Had a weekend in Pembroke booked but I dont think this is going to happen due to the weather. Hopefully a weather window on Saturday may allow a quick sport trip.

Sort out a new set of STG - LTGs.

We camped in the main campsite in town (19chf a night, 10 if tent only), stayed in the Rossi bivvy for a night, and the hornli hut. You can stay in your van in Tasch in the campsite and get the train into Zermatt on days when you want to go up to the mountains.

You thinking of going up the Obergabelhorn/Zinalrothorn side for acclimatization? I think that would be the least sloggy way up to 4000m given no lifts. 

Cheers Tom. Bit late this week. New job taking up all my headspace.

That’s exactly my plan with the schedule. It should motivate me to get done what I should, but I can also look at it to see where things aren’t working. More on that next week.

I feel I’m getting to the point where I’ve done enough to actually start some structured training. I’ve just got Logical Progression which seems to fit with my coaching philosophy and I really like the look of it.

At the moment as well as my new proper job I’m coaching two/three times a week and I’m shortly going to start a clinic based at two climbing walls. I will be at a wall up to 4 times a week. No excuse to not do a bit here and there.

Last week

Mon – Rest. Recovery hangs. Shoulders. Legs no hangs but did the rest

Tue – Start new job. Shoulder rehab and legs at least but may be nothing depending on how brain tired I end up. done

Wed – Auto belay before/after coaching auto belay 6a,b,c,7a (continuous). Actually did some leading. 6c+, 6b+, 6a+ again continuous. PUMPY!

Thur – Volume boulder session and circuits too nice to go inside so I went to Trowbarrow and opened my account on Ned’s Problem. Wow that’s going to take some doing. Had a play on Shallow Grave as well. I was rubbish at that too

Fri – Away in Edinburgh for the weekend. We’re visiting Ratho so routes will be on the cards. Need to fit in leg and shoulder work as well.   did leg and shoulder

Sat - went to Chapel Head on the way. Quick warm up then a bolt to bolt up a 7a. I then top roped it to get the draws back as my partner got hit on the head with a rock. Thankfully all OK but the first time for ages I (we) hadn’t been wearing a helmet.

Sun – 

Diet - over 25 DQS and 100g protein. managed 4/7 days. Eating out for 2 days so was always going to be tricky. Protein is still the hardest to get right. I may have to resort to protein powders

Plan for this week:

Doing this to then compare what I manage and don’t manage.

Mon – climb before coaching

Tue – Quick session after work?

Wed – join in with benchmark testing (max hangs and lactate curve)

Thur – Leg/shoulder rehab

Fri – Leg and shoulder

Sat – Climb after work?

Sun –  Leg and shoulder

Long term goals

7c in 2020 – route to be decided. Would make sense to look at Chapel Head/Hollywood bowl

Medium Goals 2-6 mths (Nov to April)

Costa Blanca trip after Xmas. 9 days of climbing potentially.

Onsight 7a x 4

RP 7b in a day

After trip change back to strength training until end of Feb.

7B (outdoors) in Winter 2019/2020 – Ned’s Problem and Discohesion sit. One steep and one vert.  

666 fit club goals

6 x V6 slabs – 1 done

6 x V6 vert – 2 done

6 x V6 steep – 4 done

To be done at BUK for ‘proper’ grades

Short term goals 1-2 mths (to mid Nov)

Battle of Britain 19th October

Rehab left shoulder in time for BOB going well atm

Rehab niggly elbows in time for BOB not got any worse despite lots of volume

Leg strengthening. Pistol squats bi laterally by BOB (can do one (ish) on my right leg only atm)

After BOB change to fitness for Spanish trip

Do some fitness even after a bouldering session

Diet– DQS 25+ per day. 100g+ protein.

Who cares about climbing anyway?! Food and beer are where it's at. Oooh, I didn't try the mac and cheese, next time. The food from Denner was all delicious - I even brought some risotto home with me.

I wish for excellent weather for you. I imagine it will be beautiful at this time of year. Zermatt is expensive though. We stayed at the campsite at the bottom of town near Denner. It was pretty good but I can't remember how much it was. I know it was 10 francs per night if you went off to stay somewhere else but wanted to leave your tent. The campsite also had an offer to use the spa of the hotel over the road if you were feeling fancy. Pretty close to Zermatt on the train in I also saw a bunch of campers but can't remember which town we were near.

https://giphy.com/gifs/vX9WcCiWwUF7G/html5

Thu - Strength projects at Substation at Macclesfield. Currently falling in the crack between Pinks and Reds. Pinks I can flash, Reds I can barely get off the ground.

Sat - Some sport faffery at  Masson Lees Quarry With Fiend. Had a go at Cattle Mutilation Expedition (6c+), which had I done it would have beat my previous best Sport grade by two full grades. Actually didn't find it too bad, and suspect it will go on my second attampt if I go back. Maybe I can do this Sport nonsense after all.

Sun - AeroPow Intervals on the circuit board at Manchester Depot. Supposed to be 1 minute on 1 minute off so maybe need to up the grade a bit - or do longer intervals.

STG

Antalya at beginning of November. Had to rebook all my flights after Thomas Cook's collapse but didn't do too badly out of it in the end, My flights with Jet2 actually worked out cheaper. Others weren't so lucky.

Since my goal climbs are in the 7a ball park, I fifure I probably have enough stregth and am lacking some endurance. So focus on AeroCap and AeroPow routines from Crimpd for the remaining 5-6 weeks.

Get a bit more consistency in training - I can't actually remember what I did last week prior to Thursday.

One of my local walls - maybe drop me a line next time you're heading there?

Not so bad after all, is it..

That's more like aero-cap instead of aero-power. Try some longer on/shorter off ratios to get a hearty pump going!

I feel your pain...

Lots of good stuff in that range at the Trebenna cliffs close to the campsite, and in the shade. Sorry, but i sold the guide so can't tell you exactly what they are...

...however, general beta is to stay out of the sun and avoid the crimpy grey rock as the routes are mostly sand bag graded. Stick to the tufa burl and you'll be reet!

Diplomarbeit (7b) - stretch goal?

Freedom is a Battle (Short) (7a) - tufa arete

Triologie (7a) - escalating difficulties

Thanks for that Ally. I'm actually heading over to Substation this eve, possibly also at the weekend if it's looking wet.

I'm finding there's a bit of a full spectrum from AeroCap->AeroPow, and I can probably benefit from both...

No problem, if I'm rude about anyone I'll just blame the painkillers I'll hopefully be on!

Yes, I should have booked it as soon as I decided to have it but I thought I'd give myself the summer but what with one thing and another I've not done anything

Yes, I think that's what I'll concentrate on, I have the first week of November off so may go for a recce of the Cullins if the weather is ok. After the op I might get on board the TFTNA train and see what I can do. I'm unlikely to better my sport grade but if I could add some grandes courses to my alpine tick list that would be a worthwhile use of my time. 

No DOMS and unlikely to be any next week as I didn't do anything. Currently on a ferry to Zebrugge, might try and do some climbing if we end up somewhere suitable although the Frankenjura sounds a bit if a nightmare to navigate around. Maybe if Alan reads this he can provide some tips on somewhere easy to find with decent length 6c to 7a

If you do get a cloudy day, some of the easier tufas on Sarkit are excellent - Colonist (6c+) and Saxafon (6b+) and stuff...

I'm not Alan, and I'm not sure what you mean by decent length (FJ has some long routes, but in general it tends to slightly shorter things) but when you said easy to find and 6c-7a I immediately thought of Reichelsmuhler which has a wall of about half a dozen things in a row that are 6b+/c sort of grade including Drunks in the Gym (6b+) and Weissenstein which is sunny, roadside, and has a wall of stuff roundabout 7a (plus a few easier on the left buttress) including the excellent Dampfhammer (7a)

Roter Fels is great for longer routes in that sort of grade range, or Katalysator on the Rabenfels at 6c+ is an absolute classic & quite long by 'jura standards.

Long weekend coming up from Thursday 3rd onwards though, will be very busy. I  might be up there for a couple of days some time between the 3rd & the 6th depending on family plans - drop me a line if you're likely to be around & would like to meet up.

Hi Tom 

I thought I'd posted last week???? Weird.

Better late than never!

Monday: cant fully remember but similar session to Thursday

Thursday:biked to wall and climbed v4,v4 and v5 again. Then worked on v7 , did first 3 moves , powered out on the 4th move. Tried v6 on the less steep board, got to Crux which couldn't do, very long lock off.

Sunday: 6 max finger board hangs. 3 sets of 20 sit ups & press ups. 3 sets of 10 leg raises & eccentric wrist curls. Theraband for shoulders.

The running club was pretty good and it ended up just being a one to one session so she paid a lot of attention to my style and the energy I am currently losing from my technique. The race has done its job of getting me out regularly - I have been doing 3 runs a week fairly consistently. One or two interval sessions a week plus a relaxed short run and one long run is apparently the way to go.

Spending a lot of time on the comp set at Mile End because it is brilliant but no idea what grade I am climbing at the moment. Also, getting quite into the training wall there and the woody at Barber's. The weeks are just shooting past and I still haven't done any front lever training out of the gym. As I am writing this at the end of the following week, next weeks post shall, unfortunately, say the same! Grrrr

Mon: gym - 55kg back squats 

Tues: 30 min run, boulder session

Weds: gym - front lever and muscle up work

Thurs: 40 min run, boulder session

Fri: gym movement session - 50m sandbag hug carries - I did the 50kg sandbag

Sat: climbing in the Peak at Burbage North. Got totally spanked by all the cracks.

Sun: run club - 1hr technique work and intervals

Hi PP, a while ago you mentioned going on a ketogenic diet: have you gone for it and if so, how have you found it?

Toying with the idea come December for starting winter training cycle.

Yes , wouldn't say I'm on the diet 100% but generally speaking it works for me.

I can see how it's not for everyone though

Best of luck