/ UKC Fit Club 655

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Tom Green 06 Oct 2019

Morning Fit Club!

Hope every one has had a good week. Just 11 weeks from 666 -how are your devilish goals progressing? Remind us all what they are (or invent new ones -you've still got 2.5 months to smash them!) Also -thanks to those who restated their goals last week... for those who didn't: share the love this week!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_654-710752

Posters: 

AJM -Nice one for getting out on Saturday -I always forget about the Portland microclimate! Sounds like a good session. Good luck with all things pre-new arrival! I'm guessing a temporary hiatus is inevitable, but look forward to hearing about your goals (bouldering?) and tactics (more home training stuff for convenient mini-sessions?) going forward.  

AlanLittle -Great work with the hang gains. It's really heartening to see that it DOES actually work! And it definitely contradicts the 'old age dip' theory/concern... If you are able to improve physical aspects, then there is no reason to assume that you are in a permanent, age-related deterioration! Technique/skills come and go with current level of mileage, but IMO aren't hugely associated with age... in fact, if anything, may have a positive association! So I'm calling bullshit on the 'dying of light' theory... keep on with the training and if it isn't translating, then maybe there could be some benefit in reviewing the 'subtleties' -all that Rock Warriors Way stuff?

biscuit -Good work with the BUK V6 -getting closer on those 666 goals! How were the climbing sessions this week? Did you manage to build in some of the structured work for building up to BOB? 

Somerset Swede Basher -Psyched to hear about your weighted hang progress over the coming months... I'm expecting big things! Think you're right to think about setting up a smaller edge though... 28mm should be a jug for you, compared to some of the shite you pull on on the limestone! Get yourself a 20mm rail (or worse)!

Tyler -'Never been less suited' translates as 'Finally a big enough challenge'! How was your Frankenjura visit? Good routes? Good beer? Both?!

Ally Smith -Hmm, if I were you I'd play the 'too tall' card and sack Mecca off -it looks rubbish anyway ;-p How has your post-hols week been? All caught up and back in the normal routine? Remind us where you're up to with 666 goals (the only one I can remember was you wanting to bench press a 9a climber!)

SFrancis -Sounds like a good sesh on Roadrage. Nice one for getting some good trips lined up -I'd never even heard of Geyikbayiri, but it looks pretty cool. What will the training focus be to get prepped for that trip? 

Paul16 -Hope you've bounced back from the lurgy to have a better week? What have you decided with the training regime? Are you thinking a periodised approach to peak for specific times, or a more 'rolling' approach of mixed strength/power/endurance? Don't forget to build some prehab stuff in to keep those shoulders and elbows on the straight and narrow!

the sheep -I've said it before, but I really can't get my head around that amount of swimming mileage! 200km in ten months... awesome! Sorry to hear the lump isn't behaving as well as it might. Is it long until you're booked in to get it sorted?

Steve Jones -First trad fall? -tell us everything! We want the full hero story! ;-p Sounds like a good balanced week. Do you ever do deadlifts as part of your strength sessions? They're my new favourite exercise -I find that, combined with core stuff, they really help avoid getting a bad back!

Ardo -Road Triiiiiip!! That's exciting... and Font is a great place to kick it off! When are you setting off?

Bones -I'm imagining your new running style -something like Tigger from Whinnie the Pooh, bouncing along the trails! Has it started feeling more natural and more of a habit on this weeks runs? Good goals... and I've every confidence that those MTGs are in the right place! Did this week go to plan?

Tom Green -need to be more organised to stop life/work disrupting weeks sessions. Be more biscuit!!

Liamhutch89 -Jellyfish swarms must automatically make a route S3?! How have things been post-hols? You back in to the training/climbing groove?

guy127917 -Great problem names! Particularly like Seraphic Squid! How fast was your fast run? Also, what's the programme for the climbing with integrated strength sesh? I'm intrigued!

Niall_li -Sounds like you're flying at the moment. Great stuff! How has the dreaded font elbow been? I assume it settled if you finished the week with weighted pull-ups?

Powderpuff -Resetting problems that you've been working is the worst! (or a lucky escape in some cases!!) Good work with the antagonists/conditioning stuff last week. Have you got back on the TheraBand wagon this week?

planetmarshall: So, did you manage to hit the STG of not skipping the start of the week (that one definitely rang true with me!)? How often do you think you need to drop a strength sesh in to maintain your current level? Once per fortnight? Once per week? TFNTA suggest fortnightly, but obviously that is within a fairly specific framework so may not be directly applicable to your current plans.

mattrm -Good early post last week! How's this week been? Still hitting double figures on the DQS? 

ianstevens -Congrats on surviving the move! Where in the world are you now? -it might be worth getting your email on the FitClub partners email list until you get sorted with regular rope-holders. I'm liking the goals. Have you got that plan from Lattice yet? Did it confirm your suspicions?

annak -welcome to FitClub! Glad to hear the psyche is high! Congrats on the 7a... 7b+ seems like a good goal. What's your plan... to find a 7b+ that you like the look of and siege it in to submission, or a more rounded approach of trying to make gains across the board and progress to being in a position where you can have a good crack at any 7b+? Both are legit!

MIA: outdoors.nick; Rebecca Ting.

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mattrm 06 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (2lbs loss)

M - 4m walk

T - 3m walk

W - 3m walk

T - 3m walk

F - 2.3m run

S - Rest

S - Rest

The DQS scores largely bumped along around 10 or so.  Took a bit of a hit over the weekend, but not to hideous.  No climbing sadly, as my normal partner was off walking in Scotland.  Weight continues to move downwards.  Hope to be a bit stricter next week, to hopefully put me on or close to 14st.  So the STG is actually looking a bit more possible now.  I'm going to push on through October, then take November off, before starting again with a damage limitation December.  Also fingers crossed I'll get down the wall.  Numbers are looking ok, I did actually work out that it's still possible to hit 50%, so there's a goal for me. 

Sept final - 56%

Oct - 66%

YTD - 42%

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AJM 06 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM -Nice one for getting out on Saturday -I always forget about the Portland microclimate! Sounds like a good session. Good luck with all things pre-new arrival! I'm guessing a temporary hiatus is inevitable, but look forward to hearing about your goals (bouldering?) and tactics (more home training stuff for convenient mini-sessions?) going forward. 

Thanks Tom.

Wednesday - morning out on Portland. Glorious sunshine. A bit too much swell for Russian Roulette, again, which I'd have liked to get on. Very much enjoyed repeating the usual classics on a sunny morning which given recent weather felt very much stolen from the teeth of encroaching autumn. Perfect morning out.....

Thursday - ..... until what felt like aching muscles on Wednesday afternoon turned out by Thursday morning to involve definite muscular pain whenever I moved my shoulder socket. Some sort of muscle strain with a delayed onset. Spent the day alternating a sling to keep it immobile and an ice pack to reduce swelling.

Friday - Sunday - shoulder improving, now back to mostly feeling like muscle soreness, except of course it wasn't...

The plan had originally been to climb a day this weekend and a day next and then wind up outdoor stuff. I missed what would have been a glorious day today, not sure I'll be able to do anything next week either. But I'm managing to be fairly pragmatic - it leaves me with a bit more time to prepare, I've probably dodged a bullet (it could be far worse), and I did have a great session Wednesday.

On the assumption that my outdoor year is now wound up, my 666 report...

> E5 onsight/flash 

1 E4 (Amanita) and a bunch of E3s (Certain Surprise, Video Kills, Ocean Boulevard, Yellow Edge, I think that was it?). I had a fairly good run, but I obviously thought I'd have time for a Swanage autumn, and I lost several days including August Bank Hol to a shoulder injury. I learnt though that getting back to E3/4 doesn't need tons of mileage as I previously thought if I just try really hard.

> DWS Mark of the Beast (/Privateer/Blue Planet)

Didn't get out anywhere near as much this year and on none of these - I think Bare Reputation was my highlight/hardest tick. Need a psyched team for Mark, if I'm honest I'm just too intimidated to raise the psyche to start up it if everyone else wants to try other things.

> Sport to support trad goals - some of Colours/Paradise Lost/Bird of Paradise/Troll Team Special/Ariana V/Stay Golden/Outside the Gate

I seem to have bad luck with Paradise Lost, having twice failed to get on it, but I did Troll Team Special, a host of 7a/+ onsights, and Colours, which I'm really chuffed with and is my hardest onsight in a while. Pretty chuffed with progress against this one.

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Tyler 06 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

 > How was your Frankenjura visit? Good routes? Good beer? Both?!

Bit embarrassing and both fronts actually. I've not made it to Frankenjura mainly because my geography let me down and it's not where I thought it was! Sadly it means I don't get to meet Alan but I think given the weather this weekend no climbing will have been done.

On the beer drinking front I've performed just as badly, I must be the only person to come to Bavaria during Oktoberfest and not touch a drop. A combination of rain, living in a van and a weak bladder (well I am over 50!) means I'm loath to get stuck in!

Not down hearted about either, Germany is a great place for a holiday, we've seen some great towns and been on some beautiful walks. Weather has turned a bit now so not spending as much time in the Bavarian Alps as we'd like. 

Apart from the walks the only exercise I've done is yesterday I went to a bouldering wall and swimming pool in Garmisch to avoid the rain. 

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outdoors.nick 06 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Right - I'm back. My foot injury (fit club 649 I think) has finally done one and I've just gotten back from my first proper weekend of climbing. 

Mon - Gym

Tue - Gym

Wed - Signed up for a Half Marathon on Jan 18th. Will hopefully allow me to get my foot back up to full strength. 

Thur - Packing

Fri - Train & bus to Llanberis to meet up with some mates. I arrived around midday and spent the afternoon hiking up Snowdon via Crib Goch. Timed it just well enough to end up with a pint in Llanberis before everyone arrived. 

Sat - Proper climbing again. So psyched to get back on it. First time on the slate and it was exactly what I enjoy, Crimpy slabs! Highlights were leading Seams the Same & Looning the Tube.

Sun - A bit damp in the pass. Climbed a (wet) multipitch severe with a couple mates and late lunch in Pete's Eats.

Back in Manchester now. Rest day tomorrow!

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Paul16 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Morning Tom, thanks for stat'ing. Virus hung around until about mid-week but back to full fitness now. At the moment I'm just rolling along but...next Saturday (12th) I meet my coach for a full day of assessment, so after that my training routine is in her hands. Full report in next week's post!

M - AW Stockport on the auto-belays doing endurance

T - Decided not to ride to work on flooded roads so took the dog out into the hills when I got home instead. 3 miles, 500 feet of ascent.

W - Had a rest, virus not quite gone yet

T - Rockover doing power - bit demoralising failing on all the v6's but that was the point.

F - Trail run - 4 miles, 600 feet of ascent. Been a long time since I did any running and my legs paid the price over the weekend. Good fun, need to make these part of my general fitness routine.

S - Rest

S - Walk in Macc forest - 3.5 miles, 650 feet ascent. MTB 11 miles, 1700 feet of ascent. Having fun on the downhill tracks in the forest then ride home.

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biscuit 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom,

It was all going so well!

To cut a long story short I have ruptured a pulley (left middle) on Thursday. I had taken Tuesday and Wednesday off as my fingers were feeling a bit worked (in a good way) but they felt fine on the Thursday and what happened was a stupid foot error not a trying too hard thing. I totally missed the foothold on a foot swap. Very not like me. As a weakling my feet are generally ok. Unfortunately I was holding on to two crimps at the time. A loud crack and a slightly sicky feeling told me everything I needed to know. Diagnosis is an A4 and cruciate rupture with some A3 involvement.

I’m using BFRT to see what difference that may make to the recovery time. However the BOB in 10 days time isn’t going to happen. Gutted about that as I was feeling good for it. My goal was to just be able to enjoy trying hard with no shoulder/elbow problems and I seemed to be on track for that. However I’ve got the Xmas climbing holiday to focus on now. Slight misery set in a couple of days after but I’m feeling more positive now.

Last week

Mon – climb on the new the comp problems from the weekend before work Decided to focus on a couple of V6 problems from last week instead. Didn’t get them, tried hard, learnt lots, got another V6 instead. Feel like I’m starting to be consistent at a slightly higher level

Tue – Legs/shoulder done

Wed – Routes after coaching tired/fingers felt worked. Skipped the session

Thur – indoor/outdoors. Not decided yet. Indoors. Finger! CRACK! Did a really good shoulder and leg workout after to salvage something positive

Fri – Busy weekend so probably just legs/shoulder work Sore from shoulder/legs. Miserable. Did nothing apart from a BFRT session

Sat – nothing….

Sun - BFRT

Diet - over 25 DQS and 100g protein 2250cals . Lost motivation/focus on this after my finger so no idea what I did. Drank too much and ate too much. Added calorie watching in now to keep an eye on weight whilst not climbing

Plan for this week:

Doing this to then compare what I manage and don’t manage.

BFRT every day

New legs/shoulder workout x4

Try the finger out to see if I can at least do some aerocap???

Long term goals

7c in 2020 – route to be decided. Would make sense to look at Chapel Head/Hollywood bowl

Medium Goals 2-6 mths (Nov to April)

Costa Blanca trip after Xmas. 9 days of climbing potentially.

Onsight 7a x 4

RP 7b in a day

After trip change back to strength training until end of Feb.

7B (outdoors) in Winter 2019/2020 – Ned’s Problem and Discohesion sit. One steep and one vert.  

666 fit club goals

6 x V6 vert – 5 done

6 x V6 off vert – 3 done

6 x V6 steep – 4 done

To be done at BUK for ‘proper’ grades

Short term goals 1-2 mths (to mid Nov)

Battle of Britain 19th October

Rehab left shoulder in time for BOB going well atm

Rehab niggly elbows in time for BOB not got any worse despite lots of volume

Leg strengthening. Pistol squats bi laterally by BOB (can do one (ish) on my right leg only atm)

After BOB change to fitness for Spanish trip

Do some fitness even after a bouldering session

Diet– DQS 25+ per day. 100g+ protein.

Post edited at 09:03
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Ally Smith 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Not too tall for Mecca; just too shite/injured/inflexible at the moment.

FC666 challenge - I never firmed up my goals fully, but these were the initial ideas:

- devil by name; 2x new routes I've bolted at  Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge). TICK. TICK. 

- devil of a bugbear - Rock Atrocity (f7C). TICK.

- devilishly antagonistic - press a skinny sports climber over head (55kg OHP) Work in progress. 52kg PB currently.

- devilishly optimistic; 8c+ (gulp!) No tick. No projects currently in mind. I'd be happy with doing an 8b+ before the end of the year (have 3 in mind...)

Week 40

M – Chapel. Took an age to get going on a steep board, but eventually my core remembered what to do. Repeated a few things up to V7, did a new V7 and then Crimpd boulder triples on V6, V6 & V5. Felt fine, not too powered out. OHP test. 55kg fail, 50kg just. Not too far off the “press 9a sport climber” FC666 goal.

T – Groin & ab Compex session. 50min CX ride – horrible first 10mn getting back in the swing of things; not too unpleasant after that. Was locked out when I got home, so did 20min of rings in the garage.

W – Early start to work in London. Evening bouldering at Stronghold. Got competitive with Inigo and lost much skin doing lots of the whites (V4-6) and occasional black (V6-8+). Finished with 2x 20 push-ups. Skipped dinner but raided complimentary mini-bar.

T – Feeling fairly beat up. No exercise + mega office chocolate haul + gluttonous evening meal = fatty Ally!

F – Work, travel and fetching wife from work after she crashed her bike

S – Morning gardening. Tor after lunch. Stupid busy. One go on Mecca. Still struggling like mad on first hard move. Did crux first go despite not getting foothold properly and just overpowered it. 7A+ tick in the cave, then sacked it off and went for some solitude in Tom’s cave. 2x 7C ticks. All the moves on an 8A link-up.

S – Christening. Ate too much cake. Groin & ab Compex session in front of TV.

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In reply to Tom Green:

Great stats as always Tom.

666 goal - tick an 8A. DONE. 

Updated 666 goal - tick rumbleweed, tumbleweed and cave pervert. DONE 

New 666 goal: I'm not sure. I want to put a few unfinished projects to bed. Girl Band, Jerry's Trav (cratcliffe), full Shades of Grey. But mostly I want to tick 7C like I tick 7B. i. e. Not always in a session but certainly feeling possible in a session. Hopefully the weighted hangs (which ironically I've not done this week) might help with. 

Mon. Tor, on full Shades of Grey, got up into the big move from the start, held it, then the left hand shot off the lower hold and landed heavily on my back from the roof of the cave. Much neck pain. 

Tues. Ibuprofen club. 

Wed. Neck still sore. Did some laps of weedkiller for fitness. 

Thurs. Rest. 

Fri. Feeling a lot better. Big tor crowd so lots of pads. Unfortunately the bottom of Shades was too wet but ticked Wee Dimension (f7B+) with improved foot sequence. Evening run Sheffield to Bakewell 26km but really slow (like 7.15/km with lots of walking on the hills) 

Sat+sun. Friends visiting. Took 4 toddler's to the park on my own while the ladies got over their sore heads on Sunday morning which pretty much classed as CV exercise!

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guy127917 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> guy127917 -Great problem names! Particularly like Seraphic Squid! How fast was your fast run? Also, what's the programme for the climbing with integrated strength sesh? I'm intrigued!

The automatic name generator on Stokt is awesome!

Fast atm is about 4:10/km 

Monday: Integrated strength session #1:

3 sets of:

Deadlifts x 5 (90, 120, 150kg)

35deg sloper hangs 10s x 3 (30-60s rest between)

30s 30" box jumps

3 sets of:

Back squats (60kg)

4 finger half crimp 10s on 18mm edge x3 (30-60s rest between) (think +15kg ish)

Turkish getups 3x each side 16kg

3 sets of:

Bench press x 5 (80kg)

front 2 bm2k offset pocket 10s, middle 2 bm1000 deep pockets 10s, back 2 bm2k offset pocket 5s

assisted pistol squats x 5 (more for mobility than strength)

Tuesday: Fastish run, Board session (bad, felt fatigued)

Wednesday: Football, not too strenuous

Thursday: mid pace run, much better board session + comp problems 

Friday- Sunday: rest

The strength session was really fun- nice to be back doing weights, and I liked mixing up the exercises, it breaks up the session and kept me interested and motivated.

Same this week: 2 climbing, 1 integrated strength, 3 running + football.

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Ardo 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Already departed and posting from Font.

Mo - Th: bit of walking, dodging rain and packing van.

Fr: drive to Dover.

Sa: drive to Font, park up, 8 easy problems, (so the guidebook says).

Su: morning showers, 10 slightly harder problems in the afternoon. Hmmmm, maybe should have done some proper training.

Road trip in progress: currently in Font, then heading to northern Spain, via Bordeaux. Hoping the sport climbing to come fares better than the schooling I'm getting here!

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Ardo 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Paul16:

Don't do it mate! Been listening to a lot of Train Beta podcasts and they say running for climbing is as much use as climbing training for running a marathon.

Exactly what I wanted to hear, as someone who can't stand running. ;-)

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Steve Jones 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Steve Jones -First trad fall? -tell us everything! We want the full hero story! ;-p Sounds like a good balanced week. Do you ever do deadlifts as part of your strength sessions? They're my new favourite exercise -I find that, combined with core stuff, they really help avoid getting a bad back!

Afriad it's not that exciting, but see below for details. I do occasionally do deadlifts, but a bad back makes me a bit nervous of doing them with any real weight. I'd do them after 5x5 squats but often to knackered to bother so they get left out! I'll redouble my effors with themn this week!

M - am: 45 mins weights pm: Went to Castle Crag (thirlmere) and did Via Media (S 4a), Yew Tree Climb (VD) (where I proceeded to drop my new iPhone from over half way up the crag...), then Kleine Rinne (VS 4b) - I was seconding all these. I couldn't see where the route went so kinda followed the arc of the rope above me. This took me off the arete and onto the face of Failed Romantic (E1 5b), so I was clinging onto a tiny hold thinking 'this is never a VS - I could fall off at any ..." and then I found myself swinging across the crag. It was quite enjoyable to be honest, probably due to the lack of time to get scared. We finished with Gazebo (HVS 5a), my first HVS and great fun (if a bit wet in some of the jugs). We also abseiled down Yew Tree Climb lookimg for my phone, then had a mooch around the bottom to no luck. But then we found it, almost unscathed, at the bottom when we were walking back to the car!!

T - 3 hours doing routes indoors

W - Went to Shepherds in the afternoon and did Brown Slabs Face (HVD), Brown Slabs Direct (VD), then Creeping Jesus (HVS 5a). I manged to get past the crux with the help of someone climbing next to me pointing out some holds but it left me a bit shaken. We then tried Fishers Folly (VS 4c) - it was wet and I was getting dripped on just belaying. I mananged the wet crack climb, got to the start of the traverse and bottled it. There was a wet patch right accross the traverse and I just couldn't bring myself to step out onto it. Obvsiously a hangover from the 'excitement' of Creeping Jesus.

T - 2 hrs indoors on routes

F - 3.5k run - v easy on grass. no ill effects!!

S - rest day

S - 5.7k run, more laps of the park. I think foot is doing ok... in pm - weights (up to 50kg 5x5 bench press - a 10kg increase on previous best).

Weighed in on Sunday at 75.1kg (60kg muscle mass, 11.9kg (15.85%) fat!)

All in all a good week. 2 HVS done - I think I've about found my limmit. Also happy with some routes done on the wall that used a few slopers etc that previously would have stopped me. Also managed a route that stumped two friends who have been climbing a lot longer, so that was a boost. And I can do some short runs (fingers crossed)!!

Need to sort out the 'head game' for traverses etc. I know I talked myself out of Fisher's Folly before I'd left the ground!

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AlanLittle 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Reassuring words Tom, thanks. Doing the weekly write-up clearly requires a significant amount of effort and thought; I hope you realise that it is appreciated. 

STG (Tuesday): Plastic roof 7a proj. Yes.
MTG (Sunday): Frankenjura long weekend with decent weather forecast coming up. Get up *something* decent, and hopefully have a beer with Tyler. Raining - see below.
LTG: Rethink in progress

M: 
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Steep 7a project* ticked. Fell off first go of the evening, watched a better climber & improved my beta for the crux, got it next go.
W: Oktoberfest with work. "Rest Day"?
T: Successfully fitted in a set of max hangs at the new increased weight before heading back to Oktoberfest with my son. His first year of legal drinking age, so first time with Dad on the Wies'n is a rite of passage & way more important than any aspect of my climbing performance.
F: 
S,S: Unlike Tyler I know where the Frankenjura is, but it was raining there. So, back to Latsch for another session on last week's South Tyrol project without any intervening PE training. Interesting experience, and quite refreshing to be on a project not really thinking I have a serious chance on the day, so I can relax and just enjoy doing good moves and improving my sequence. I can do all the moves quite consistently, but I feel a long way from being able to do twenty of them in a row. Clearly what I need to train for this route, and haven't trained in ages, is short, intense power endurance. (Whatever that is.  Ancap? Areopow? No idea. Too complicated)


(* Top tip: if pump resistance is not your forté, get on routes set by boulderers)

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Powderpuff 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Powderpuff -Resetting problems that you've been working is the worst! (or a lucky escape in some cases!!) Good work with the antagonists/conditioning stuff last week. Have you got back on the TheraBand wagon this week?

Hi Tom,

Yeah, need to dig deeper on the problems and get them done.

No theraband, in fact not much of anything actually as I was Ill most of last week.


Monday: new set at the wall , climbed two v4, climbed v5, tried two v6 and one v7 problems.

I was Ill the rest of the week, so that was it.

My diet has been a bit all over the place lately and been enjoying the drink too much, must try harder.

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Paul16 07 Oct 2019
In reply to Ardo:

The serious training doesn't start until Saturday!

Sounds like your trip will be amazing. Let me know when you get somewhere warm and I'll engineer a long weekend.

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Tom Green 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Good week for climbing, especially opening this seasons dry-tooling account. Less good for training.

Week 40:

3/3 hours Z1. 0/30min Z3. 3/3 Climbing Sessions. 1/2 Core and Strength Sessions. 2/3 Prehab Sessions.

M: Indoor Climbing at Boardroom -tweaked R middle finger on first problem of warm up circuit -doh! Turned the session in to Core and General Strength, followed by some very gentle social bouldering.

T: Trail Run. 86min Z1. 14km at 6:05/km. 375m vert gain. Moderately techy.

W: Shoulder Prehab. 

T: Shoulder Prehab.

F: Character building climbing: Table Direct and Cwfrwy Arete in waterfall conditions! 90min Z1 hill walking.

S: Dry Tooling. First White Goods sesh of the season. Ticked Monoculture (M5+) -a good milestone (and probs M6), and started working Subculture (M6+) (more like M7!). Fell off last moves of Don't Tumble (M6+) (annoying irony!). Good to be back on the tools.

S: Quick Indoor sesh at Boardroom waiting for the rain to dry up (Max Hangs, AeroCap 1 on - 1 off) then mixed sport and trad sesh at Trevor -highlight Alligator's Crawl (HVS 5a)

Week 41 Plan:

3 hours Z1. 45 min Z3. 

2 Climbing Sessions.

3 Core and Strength Sessions.

3 Prehab sessions of TheraBand exercises (12 reps; 3 sets) and Elbow exercises (unequal dumbbell)

STG (End Oct):

Front Squat 3RM: 55kg (Currently 45kg)

Deadlift 3RM: 65kg (Currently 50kg)

Ice tool One-arm Hangs: +5kg BOTH arms (+6kg TICK!)

Minimum 500m running vert gain per week (Ongoing Avg 783m)

Redpoint Subculture (M6+) and Don't Tumble (M6+)

Tick off 666 goal routes.

MTG (End Dec):

666 Goals

Redpoint Jaz

Two big alpine routes from my little black book!

Welsh 3000s in a day.

LTG (End March 2020):

Scottish VII

Two winter alpine routes from my little black book!

SkiMo summit (TBC).

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 2/6; Hands 4/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes (1/6)

6 E-points in a day

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Tom Green 08 Oct 2019
In reply to biscuit:

Aw mate! Gutted for you. That's really unlucky. Hope it turns out to be a quick recovery.

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Tom Green 08 Oct 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Reassuring words Tom, thanks. Doing the weekly write-up clearly requires a significant amount of effort and thought; I hope you realise that it is appreciated. 

Thanks Alan. I quite enjoy it, and find it useful for my own training, but it is nice to get people's thank yous too! 

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ianstevens 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Hope every one has had a good week. Just 11 weeks from 666 -how are your devilish goals progressing? Remind us all what they are (or invent new ones -you've still got 2.5 months to smash them!) Also -thanks to those who restated their goals last week... for those who didn't: share the love this week!

Thanks for the stats as always Tom. No 666 goal for me, and it doesn't quite line up with my goals set last week unfortunately!

> ianstevens -Congrats on surviving the move! Where in the world are you now? -it might be worth getting your email on the FitClub partners email list until you get sorted with regular rope-holders. I'm liking the goals. Have you got that plan from Lattice yet? Did it confirm your suspicions?

I'm now up in Newcastle - so if anyone is keen to get on then get in touch! Happy to travel to Yorkshire (Malham is probably my day trip limit mind) or the Keswick end of the Lakes. Where can I find this partners list? I've got my lattice plan, starting this week - goals are as per those outlined here. I've got the following training priorities, of which I'll spare the full details:

1) Finger strength - moderate priority. "Average for grades".

2) Power endurance - high priority. Below average in testing, aim to improve boulder-specific power endurance.

3) Upper body strength - high priority. Poor pull-up score.

4) Flexibility - moderate. "Average" flexibility.

So actually nothing surprising - I need moooorrrreee POOOWWWAAAAA. Plan aligns with this - I've got a lot of power based climbing sessions and lots of pull ups. Sorting of looking forward to getting stuck in... although it's going to be painful I suspect!

Goals

STG: Establish good routines (new (academic) year, new me), evidenced by completing (or at least trying to complete) all planned sessions. Keep on the fit club posts(!).

MTG: Get up a 7A+ by the end of January

LTG: 7B boulder AND 8a route by 8th October 2020

Last Week (2019.40):

M: Bike commute, 9.1km

Tu: Valley - warm up (10 x <6A; BM2k 5secs x 5 reps x 5); 8 x 6A-7A circuit; TRX shoulder stability; BC 9.3km

W: Yoga; Valley - warm up (yesterday); Remaining 6A-7A circuit (14 problems); BC 11km

Th: Yoga; Run 12.8km - 20 min effort out, 18 min back (+ warm up); BC 7.5km

F: Yoga; BC 10km; Elbow prehab with Therabar

Sa: Yoga; more elbow prehab

Su: Yoga; Pool - unstructred climbing <7A; Crimpd intermediate campus (some use of feet for 1-4-5...)  

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ianstevens 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Ardo:

> Don't do it mate! Been listening to a lot of Train Beta podcasts and they say running for climbing is as much use as climbing training for running a marathon.

> Exactly what I wanted to hear, as someone who can't stand running. ;-)

Indeed, but a little running is good for the soul and means you can have some guilt free cake ;) 

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the sheep 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> the sheep -I've said it before, but I really can't get my head around that amount of swimming mileage! 200km in ten months... awesome! Sorry to hear the lump isn't behaving as well as it might. Is it long until you're booked in to get it sorted?

Thanks Tom, went to see the consultant last week and surgery is required. Have been referred for a scan first and then the op. 

Had a steady week. Swam 1km each week  day and got a 16km ride home in on Wednesday. Went for a 5k run saturday morning but regretted it due to hernia pain for the rest of the day 

Looks like I may be having bit of a rest there for a while. Still no events booked in until next year and can still swim and cycle gently so no point in making it worse and having to stop all activity.

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annak 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Good question! Realistically the outdoor season is pretty much over here in Oslo, but I'm hoping to get away for a week to Spain in December. If I could get up a 7b there I'd be super happy, but only having a week does lead me down the path of picking a specific route that suits me. In the long run obviously I'd like to widen the pyramid base, but that will have to wait until spring. Unless you count indoor climbing, which I mostly don't.

M: A day of trad at Almscliffe since we were in the area. Managed an HVS that I found very awkward, took two goes, was feeling very unsettled climbing on gear after so much sport lately.

T: Got back to Oslo super late so pretty tired but dragged myself out to the forest for a couple of hours bouldering and managed to tick my first 6C Chuffed.

W: Indoor climbing due to rain, a short session but got a 7a on 2nd go.

Th: Bouldering, fingers feeling super tired. Did 4x4 but it was a bit too busy and I felt quite antisocial taking so long on each boulder. One finger started feeling tweaky so escaped upstairs to do antagonist wotsits.

F: Rest

S: Rest

Su: Ill! Set out to climb locally but felt truly awful and had to have a breather halfway through flaking the rope out so went home again. Slight fever, much sofa time.

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Ardo 08 Oct 2019
In reply to ianstevens:

Mmmmm cake. Need to investigate this issue if I try the keto diet!

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biscuit 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Aw mate! Gutted for you. That's really unlucky. Hope it turns out to be a quick recovery.

Cheers Tom. It’s doing well so far. Difficult to tell exactly what’s gone on in there. I’ve no bowstringing, but that’s more indicative of a double rupture. The loud crack and pain localised across my A4 is the main clue. 

I’m optimistic and meanwhile I’ll work in other weaknesses - shoulders and legs. 

Thanks for the sympathy and the effort you put into the thread each week. 

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Tom Green 09 Oct 2019
In reply to biscuit:

That crack sound is one of the worst noises ever! I remember the only time I popped a finger and the sound it made was so loud and distinct... I thought I’d snapped a hold (especially as I was bouldering at the New Quarry in Avon where snapping a hold would have been pretty likely!)

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Bones [:B 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Bones -I'm imagining your new running style -something like Tigger from Whinnie the Pooh, bouncing along the trails! Has it started feeling more natural and more of a habit on this weeks runs? Good goals... and I've every confidence that those MTGs are in the right place! Did this week go to plan?

You nailed it! Exactly like Tigger until I get tired after around 20 metres. It's not got to the point where it is feeling good yet but it definitely increases my speed if I concentrate on it. Does feel hard though. I will take your confidence in my MTGs and I will run with it! This week was a bit slow as I started to feel ill. Everything felt hard and lots of things didn't happen but feeling much better today.

Mon: 40 minutes run at lunch and then evening gym squats and Barber's boulder session. Had another go at Raw Deal (STG) and other woody problems.

Tues: gym: 10 x 20kg clean and press, 5 x 10kg pullups, 5 x 5kg dips then 100 reps of bicep curls (started with 20kg bar then lowered to 2x6kg dumbells), shoulder press (2x6kg dumbells) and bent row with 20kg bar.

Weds: gym: Just about managed 2 sets of 10 pull-ups, didn't get around to the third. Then a bunch of core/front lever bits. Definitely getting a stronger core but not improved front lever yet.

Thurs: rest - didn't feel great for the rest of the week

Fri: rest

Sat: rest

Sun: rest, made cupcakes and then ate cupcakes

STG:
- Warmup on the training wall at Mile End. The climb is called 'Warmup' so not great for my ego.
- purple route in monkey house (F6b?)
- Raw Deal woody problem at Barber's Gym (6a+)
- Great South Run, 10 miles, 20 October
- attempt a V6-8 route per session at Mile End or similar at other walls
- 10 muscle-ups using the purple and red bands
- regular 5 days of front lever work per week
- 4 x 20kg pull-ups

MTG:
- muscle up
- front lever
- one rep 32kg weighted pull-up. I haven't measured my max 1 rep in a while but last week I did 2 x 20kg pull-ups and am fine doing 5 x 12.5kg so imagine I can go heavier.
- being able to climb a Mile End V6-8 problem after a few sessions

LTG: 
- muscle up and front lever might be better off in here but I am being hopeful
- 20 pull-ups
- flash 5 V6-8 routes at Mile End

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Bones [:B 09 Oct 2019
In reply to biscuit:

Just read about your finger injury, really sucks. Hope it recovers well and quickly and you can get lots of work in on those 'weaknesses'. I am sure you have mentioned this on previous posts but what are you doing for shoulders and legs?

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biscuit 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Bones [:B:

Thanks for the commiserations. It could be worse. A few weeks at most. Tyler is having a hip replacement soon. I’ve got a sore finger. I know which I’d rather have. 

But it is gutting. Not being able to climb is pants. 

For my shoulders I’m doing scapular stabilisation work but focussing on the position of my upper arms to really get the external rotators working. Bit hard to explain in writing sorry. 

If you want stabilisation ideas have a google of the Prehab guys (or YouTube) for lots of good ideas. 

My quest for a pistol squat on my left leg has led me to weighed Bulgarian split squats. I can’t do a pistol with my heel flat on the floor but I have good ankle range and equal on both sides. They feel pretty specific and I’ve discovered if I hold the weight in different hands it changes the emphasis from knees to glutes. 

Considering joining a gym and doing some proper weights but not sure where I’d fit it in. 

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Niall_li 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Font elbow cleared up pretty quickly thankfully Although I think a forearm massage would go down a treat atm!

M - Climbfit - +20kg get up sit up, +24kg russian twists, 2x40Kg pullups as part of a pyramid, +10Kg dips. Climbing circuits felt pretty good as well

T - Rest

W - Rest

T - Morning fingerboarding - +20KG on half crimp, + 7.5Kg 2 finger pockets. Out Thurs night

F - Hangover

S - Irish bouldering league day, first 21 done. Will have to get down again to tick some more while it's still on

Su - Took a risk on the quick drying properties of the Fairhead boulders and won out (after a pretty rank and wet morning). Some good climbs, ticked MIA which had been on the to do list for a while and should've ticked my 2nd 7A (stop feeding it) , crimping an inch to the right would've had me done. Although pleased to get so close after one session (albeit with a tweaked hamstring from the heelhooking), pretty confident I should get it done next time. Had a speculative go at the sit start to eat it, which is way above my pay grade but didn't feel as unfathomable as I expected One for the odd go now and then I think. All in all a great day, hopefully with a bit of weather luck should get out next week/week after

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planetmarshall 11 Oct 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> planetmarshall: So, did you manage to hit the STG of not skipping the start of the week (that one definitely rang true with me!)?

I did, but things properly went to pot at the end of the week - not entirely my fault though.

> How often do you think you need to drop a strength sesh in to maintain your current level? Once per fortnight? Once per week? TFNTA suggest fortnightly, but obviously that is within a fairly specific framework so may not be directly applicable to your current plans.

Yeah I don't think much is required, about once per fortnight is probably okay as there will be some overlap from general climbing - at least that's my instinct anyway.

Last week

Tue

AeroPow 'Capacity Power' workout @RCC.

 (Basically roped laps on the autobelays) 5x2 laps at about 6a+. Found this maybe a bit easy at Reading - the routes are quite short. Increase number of laps if I do this again. Couldn't find a climbing partner which was slightly irritating as although the place looks busy the lead walls are often about 75% empty.

Wed

AeroCap '1 on 1 off' @Sheff Depot.

Modified this to be about 2 on 2 off which is just about enough for a full circuit on the circuit boards. 7 sets at about 6a/+

Thu

AeroPow 'Broken Quarters' @Man Depot. 

3 sets on the Blue circuits (6c/+)

Intolerably busy. I've never seen it that busy actually, and will be avoiding the place like the plague on Thu evenings in future if it's a pattern. There was so much chalk in the air I could barely breathe, and it was pretty difficult to get a training session done.

Then it all went to hell...

Sat

Flu

Sun

Flu

STG

Picked up some kind of virus (mostly flu-like symptoms) so week 656 is likely to be a complete write off. As I write this (on Friday) It's my first day back at work and I still feel fairly knackered. Vaguely possible I might get something done at the weekend as I'm doing a first aid course at AW Stockport.

MTG

Antalya.

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Bones [:B 11 Oct 2019
In reply to biscuit:

I'm with you on that one but still highly frustrating not to be able to climb. 

The Prehab guys look excellent. Just watched their video of the World's Greatest Stretch. That's one people do at the gym a lot and I don't think it's meant to be difficult but I REALLY struggle with it. My mobility could clearly do with a lot of work.

Interesting pistol squat stuff. I am finding a similar thing with one leg being much harder to get. And have also noticed much bigger leg muscles above the knee but not huge changes in glutes - will move weights around and adjust technique to see if that makes a difference. Don't want to end up in one of those weird, weightlifting muscle gain gone wrong photos. https://www.ilovebicycling.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Does-Cycling-Build-Leg-Muscles.jpg

Maybe if you're going to be climbing a little less for the next few weeks it's worth taking a few trips to the gym to see if it's going to work for you. I think I need other people around and to make commitments to go to classes otherwise I just sit and write messages on UKC rather than going running. Oops.

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Liamhutch89 12 Oct 2019

Back into the swing of training now after my holiday. Unfortunately this awful weather has meant no time on rock but I've managed to fingerboard nearly every day and boulder indoors 3 times this week at the depot.

I think i've been a bit too enticed by all the fun circuits lately and next week my goal is to stay on the 45 degree board for 3 full sessions for maximum power and strength gains. 

My main goal is still a genuine 7C boulder this winter. My current best boulder is 7A+ (done 4 at the grade) but I only started bouldering outside this summer so there are newbie gains to be had and I think it's an achievable goal. I think the keel suits me (and isn't it everyone's 1st 7C anyway???) 

Post edited at 18:29
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