UKC

Evening FC,

Hope all are well and had a productive week? 

The days are getting shorter and the temps are getting colder (and wetter!)... so it's a natural time for change in the climbing year -hard grit bouldering? Scottish winter? Locking yourself in the cellar for a winter on the Beastmaker?

Whatever your short/mid/long term goals are, we want to hear them! Make sure you restate those goals in this weeks post. 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502  

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_655-711011

Posters: 

AJM: I reckon that counts as a pretty decent showing for the 666 goals. Nice one, mate. I know there are some frustrations there -injuries, near misses, etc -but a decent season and hopefully you feel like you've acquitted yourself well.

AlanLittle: That sounds like a good sesh on the Latsch route. Arno Ilgner would be hi-fiving you regarding the relaxed, eyes-off-the-result, in-the-moment approach! Seriously though, that 'no-expectation' approach has definitely helped me climb better this summer, and that's on trad so I would think it translates even better to sport porjects/redpointing. I guess at 20 moves, you are probably more in to the realms of AeroPow than AnCap, but if it's quite cruxy there'll obviously be benefits from working both... what strategies for training each have you been thinking of?

biscuit: So how bad is it? Has it continued to improve over this week? What is the plan... I'm assuming you're sacking off BOB, but hopefully continuing with the sport trip? You managing to avoid angst-eating and keep that DQS high?! Light is good for recovering fingers!! ;-p 

Somerset Swede Basher: Nice week. And good effort on your Friday run! Sunday morning sounds pretty attritional! -sounds like good training for something, but I've no idea what!

Tyler: Sounds like a nice trip, despite being geographically challenged! ;-p Was this the first big journey for the van? (Top small bladder van tip -Copella juice bottles make great pee bottles!) 

Ally Smith: Firstly: Groin Compex?! Really?! That's got to be crossing some sort of line! ;-p Secondly: nice work with the 666 goals -pretty good showing so far. Thirdly: was Mrs S ok following the bike crash?

Paul16: Glad the lurgy didn't linger! Are you ready to deliver the full lowdown on the new training plan? We're on the edge of our seats here!

the sheep: Glad the ball's rolling with the referral process. Hope it isn't too much of a wait. Is swimming and cycling still working out ok?

Steve Jones: Sounds like a good first flight! Congrats! Creeping Jesus is no pushover, good effort! You seem to be cracking on up through the grades. Regarding the deadlifts, I was also a bit paranoid, having had intermittent episodes of 'putting my back out' so I started really slowly and increased the weight fairly gradually. Ultimately, I think it's made my back a bit more resilient, but obviously go easy if it doesn't agree with yours!

Ardo: Haha! You've got to embrace a good Font schooling! Hope you're still having a great time and are following the sunshine. Spare a thought for the rest of Fit Club!

Bones: That's hilarious that your goal problem is called Warmup! There are some mean people in the climbing world! I feel your pain -I refuse to use the Moon Board because the only problems I can do have all got condescending names!! ;-p How was the running this week? Are you getting excited for the Great South Run now?

Tom Green: Reasonable week. Keep getting those scheduled sessions ticked off!

Liamhutch89: Mate, if you've done four 7A+ within a few months of first climbing outside then 7C is definitely achievable! I guess the question is, what are the areas to work on to get there? Although finger boarding will always pay back (even if just in maintenance and injury prevention) I wonder whether there might be some other areas that are more 'outdoor specific'? I'm guessing from indoor climbing your plenty strong enough to move up the grades this winter... are you finding any types of move particularly hard? 

guy127917: Those combo sessions sound like a good use of time. Are you also working on the theory of big muscle group work outs giving extra gains on the hangs, etc? 

Niall_li: Good week, especially with a Fairhead grand finale! Great work sorting out Stop Feeding It in just one session. You've got to be chuffed with that? Did you get the chance to put it to bed this week?

Powderpuff: Sorry to hear you got hit by the lurgy. Recovered now? Food and drink are a curse... they shouldn't be so bloody nice! You got food/booze goals or just planning on keeping a casual eye on them?

planetmarshall: Oh no! Another FitClubber down! We definitely seem to have hit the lurgy season. Hope it hasn't dragged on too much this week. At least you had a decent start to the week.

mattrm: Good work. That STG is yours for the taking. Did you manage to get to the wall this week? 

ianstevens: I'm assuming Geordie Newcastle, not midlands Newcastle?! Ping us an email through here and I'll add your email address to the group. Sounds like you and AlanLittle need to start your own PowerClub! What's the feedback from the first week of your plan?

annak: Oh no! -you managed to take the FitClub lurgy back to Oslo! Seems like a good week pre-lurgy though. Congrats on the 6C. Have you started geeking through Spanish guides to find that perfect 7b yet? ;-p

outdoors.nick: Sounds like a cracking weekend. Glad you liked the slate -quality, huh?! And nice routes for your slate debut too. Give me a shout if you fancy some more slate action -I'm perma-keen for the slate! Did you get out this week? 

MIA:

Rebecca Ting. SFrancis

Cheers Tom. Yeah, it's been a pretty good year. 

Quiet week this week, got sidetracked into other things like cider making. Did some tidying and rationalising of the gear cupboard. Got some board to back an extra fingerboard mount downstairs to increase my options.

Have to figure out some goals for indoor (home, mainly) training for upcoming downtime. Also need to figure out when I might get outdoors again next so I know what and when to aim for!

It was a great trip, can thoroughly recommend it. I'd spent a week in Pembroke in the van but it was the first extended trip with us both in it, considering I'm a bit messy and my wife is habitual tidier it went really well.

I think the marital harmony might have come under some strain if I started peeing in the same room we slept and ate in!

This week lots of walking around unbelievably idyllic towns hopefully negated the cakes I ate. Today I put some effort in to finishing my attic training facility as I realised I don't have to wait until after my op to begin my training for next year. BM 2K is mounted and I've fixed the board for the foot off campusing, just need the rungs now. I tried the BM2K 6C routine, didn't finish but did better than I thought and reckon I might be able to complete after a few sessions. Did some pull ups 5, 7, 9(ish), 10(ish).

I've found a convenient project simulator at the wall, and I plan to project it without caring what energy system it's called

STG: Latsch project simulator at the wall.
MTG: Actually get up something in what remains of the autumn season
LTG: Rethink in progress

M: Dreamt I was gearing up below Left Wall. Clearly an indication which way I should be thinking for next year's summer holiday plans. 
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Not fully recovered from Sunday, but found the perfect plastic training route for the South Tyrol project: 12 metres of slightly overhanging crimping with no really hard moves, but no good rests either.
W: 
T: Beastmaker max hangs morning before work.
F: Bike one hour.
    Half an hour stretching whilst binge watching *Age of Ondra* on youtube.
S: Boulderwelt. Went to check out our biggest local bouldering wall's new bigger premises. Was generally underwhelmed, but what did strike me as a significant improvement was that the moonboard is now in a nice secluded corner, making my pathetic flailing on "6A+" benchmarks less embarrassingly public.
    Bike to & from Boulderwelt one hour.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Met up with one of my May Kalymnos buddies. Part of the plan was to get back on the Latsch simulator project, but ... you think you're hardly doing anything in a power session: do two or three moves, have a lie down for five minutes, do another two or three moves. Until you try to do something else the next day: then oh dear, very much not firing on all cylinders. Got some onsight mileage in.

Morning Tom, thanks for the stats round-up.

1, Compex requires careful placement of the electrodes when trying to activate the pectineus muscle, but I think it's being effective...

2, FC666 goals - inching closer on the OHP goal, but have also observed a need for better scapular control, so will add "Weekly rings session" to my goals/itinerary.

3, Sadly not - wife has a fractured wrist and I'm now chief chef, cleaner and taxi service for the next 6 weeks

Week 41

M – Aborted planned climbing as had to rescue wife from A&E. Press-ups and sit-ups in front of TV.

T – Last chance of dry weather for a while? Tom’s Roof. 3x RP on Abu Ali's Hand Gun (f8A) (8b+ apparently?) Got 5/6 problems in on 1st go, but lacked some flow/pace. 2nd go was quicker, but powered out (4/6). 3rd was atrocious with multiple cut loose mistakes (3/6). Armbandit (f7A+) (7B) compensatory tick. R elbow slightly grumpy.

W – 26km flat road ride. Cave lanterns came in handy for after-dark lawn mowing. Groin & ab Compex session.

T – Bit of ab DOMS. Evening FB session. Max-hangs 6x 10s @BW+45kg on lattice edge. A few sets of OHP, working up to 49kg triples. Crimpd “Density hangs” 3x 40s @BW+15kg. Finished with 5x5 on the minute pull ups with same weight, then stretched in front of the TV. Both elbows slightly grumpy.

F – Started feeling a bit snotty.

S – Poor night sleep swallowing epic quantities of snot. Taxi service for wife and visiting friends. Walking at Lyme Park.

S – More snot, more taxiing, more walking. Early night.

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (STS)

M - 3m walk

T - 7m walk

W - 3m walk

T - 3m walk

F - Rest

S - 3m walk

S - DIY club - floor laying

A one per cent increase.  42 up to 43.  It's small but I'll take it!  It's been a tough week.  I failed miserably to get a properly early night one day, so went into the weekend feeling exhausted.  We had a nice family stroll on Saturday.  Then spent Sunday laying flooring, which I'm feeling today.  Due to the tiredness, I made a number of poor food choices.  My DQS was probably passable during the week, but it was bumping around 4-6 over the weekend.  Especially after a takeaway on Sunday.  

Oct - 71%

YTD - 43%

Well as predicted last week was a total write off. I was doing a first aid course at AW Stockport at the weekend so managed a few routes but could barely get off the ground I was so tired.

Mon-Sat - Ill

Sun - Half a pyramid of routes from 6a-6b. Tried a 6a+ in the tall wall could only make it about halfway up.

STG

Back on the training horse.

A slightly 'meh' week. Not a disaster, but reached the end of the week feeling like I could/should have done better. Dropped a strength session in favour of another Dry Tooling session -probably similar level of beasting!

Week 41:

1.5/3 hours Z1 (poor effort). 30/45min Z3. 3/2(!) Climbing Sessions. 1/3 Core and Strength Sessions. 3/3 Prehab Sessions.

M: Trail Run. 90min Z1/2. 14km. 375m vert gain. Moderately techy. Dry Tooling at White Goods, worked Subculture -just don't have enough power for the crux, clocked up some airtime on Apple (D7) then smashed And Pears (D7) (both probably M6!)

T: Shoulder & Elbow Prehab.

W: Core and Max Strength. Upped the weights a bit more.

T: Morning Run, then Indoor Climbing. Slightly aimless social bouldering session -felt a bit tired and tweaky. Shoulder & Elbow Prehab. 

F: Rest. Pretty tired and bad DOMS from Wednesday!

S: Shoulder Prehab.

S: Dry Tooling. Annoyingly failed to redpoint Don't Tumble (D6+) (seemed further off than last week's attempt), powered out fairly quickly working Jaz (again, highlighting strength and power deficit!) but saved the session with a good attempt at Agent Orange (D6+) (blew the onsight by grabbing the chains as my tool started to slither off, got it next go (with v tired, end-of-sesh arms!)

Week 42 Plan:

3 hours Z1. 45 min Z3. 

2 Climbing Sessions.

2 Core and Strength Sessions.

3 Prehab sessions of TheraBand exercises (12 reps; 3 sets) and Elbow exercises (unequal dumbbell)

STG (End Oct):

Front Squat 3RM: 55kg (Currently 48kg)

Deadlift 3RM: 65kg (Currently 50kg)

Ice tool One-arm Hangs: +5kg BOTH arms (+6kg TICK!)

Minimum 500m running vert gain per week (Ongoing Avg 705m)

Redpoint Subculture (M6+) and Don't Tumble (M6+)

Tick off 666 goal routes.

MTG (End Dec):

666 Goals

Redpoint Jaz

Two big alpine routes from my little black book!

Welsh 3000s in a day.

LTG (End March 2020):

Scottish VII

Two winter alpine routes from my little black book!

SkiMo summit (TBC).

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 2/6; Hands 4/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes (1/6)

6 E-points in a day

Cheers Tom. I can't reveal the plan yet as it's being put together atm. Saturday was full-on for 8 hours, and it met my hopes/expectations 100%. Once I have the plan I'll share highlights and then give regular updates on progress. We'll be working together for 6 months initially then see where I'm at.

So, last week was mainly about keeping things ticking over in preparation for meeting Jude on Sat. The assessment covered a lot of areas, mainly focussed on movement, efficiency, and mental aspects of climbing. By the end my arms and shoulders knew they'd been working all day! To be honest, it was too much for me to take in and use, and Jude did say this would be the case. It's all in there somewhere though, for when I get the plan and start working specifics.

Short term goals will become aligned to the schedule Jude sends over once she's figured out how to help a punter like me. There' was talk of spending up to 45 mins on the wall for endurance for example...think that'll be one for the Chapel, can't see me being popular at a wall doing that.

Last week:

M - Rest
T - AW Stockport on the auto-belays doing endurance (although not for long enough apparently!)
W - Rest
T - Power endurance - didn't go into the red, just enough to feel some gains but backed off to leave something for coaching Saturday
F - Travel to France
S - Coaching assessment with Jude Spancken. 8 hours in the gym working on different aspects of climbing but primarily focussed on movement and mental awareness.
S - Dog walk in the hills. 5 miles, lots of hills. Finished at the pub for a pint

STG: Waiting for plan/schedule from Jude. Goal is to build a base of good movement and improved endurance.

MTG (March 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a at WCJ & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+ at Chee Dale Upper, head point San Melas E3 5c or Wings of Unreason E4 5c at Roaches

LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Brachiation Dance or Garderobe at WCJ both 7b+

This week I'll start a training diary, do daily exercises for shoulder mobility and core, and hopefully start working through the plan. Exciting times ahead!

Cheers Tom.  A week of two halves for me this week.

Mon. Tor session.  Ticked Shades of Grey (f7C) from the proper low start this time.  Glad there was a big crowd (7 or 8 pads) as I stacked it from the lip twice before I got it.

Tues. 10km run

Wed. Tor again (always dry!).  Decided to tie in to an old project of mine.  Had 6 or 7 sessions on this about 4 years ago but never managed it.  Went 2nd go today.  Weedkiller/Green Alternative (8a) its also generally considered to be 8a+ which would make it my hardest tick on a rope!  It didn't go down without a fight though...

I shot through weedkiller, slightly powered out at the end but not too bad and not pumped.  3 shakes on each arm at the jug but its steep ground so didn't hang around for long.  Up into the next 2 holds which are small, starting to lose power. The next move is the crux for me and I latched the throw well, left hand up to match next to it.  Now comes another big move (the crux for most).  I'm starting to lose core, big throw, caught it perfectly, drag the toe, left hand up. Suddenly I'm pumped. Here comes the cut lose move, shit, which foothold is it? Balls, its too far right.  I'm terminally pumped now.  It'll have to do I can't cut loose again to move it. I slap wildly to the next hold, its good, somehow I'm still attached. Slap with the left, somehow catch it. Stamp my left foot onto something and stab my right out onto something better.  I'm so pumped now my elbows are above my hangs trying to palm down to keep contact.  I throw my head forwards like a sprinted at a close finish to get some forwards momentum to grab the last hold.  Its massive but I've nothing left.  Then the left foothold breaks, my arms straighten but somehow I'm still hanging on.  I don't have enough left to lean out on straight arms to find something to stand on. I'm now shouting 'where's the F-ing foothold?' at Jerome who is trying to give my disco-ing leg directions.  After an age I find something. Left hand up.  Can't take a hand off to clip.  'Just hang straight armed off the jug and recover' shouts Jerome helpfully.  I can't even do that.  Eventually I manage to manufacture some sort of guppy with my limp and useless left hand. I fumble the clip. Shit. Shake out again. Try again.  YES!

Thurs. Rest.

Fri. Try Chimes short. all moves done.  Nice to try something different.  Unfortunately twang something in my finger I don't think its super bad though.  A couple of weeks saying off the finger and doing core/upper body / stamina on jugs should be enough.

sat/sun rest.

Lovely write up! I'm definitely of the opinion Weedkiller/GA is 8a+, so have some extra wad points for the PB.

Cave problem/GA for a quick tick whilst you have everything wired, or is the finger too spangled for that?

The slate is epic and definitely keen for another trip!

However, I've had another cracking week, but not in a good way. On Saturday I had a go at onsighting San Melas at the Roaches. Was going properly good until I fell off 1, maybe 2, moves from the top. Left foot too high, couldn't reverse it, tried to push through and slipped. slid down the slab and fractured my ankle. Epic catch by my mate to stop me hitting the floor. X-ray doesn't look too bad, only a slight crack and doesn't look like any ligament damage. Wearing the boot of shame for a while though now.

I think that puts a decent full stop to my 1st year of grit slabs. Looking back at the year has been quite a good one though for slabby grade chasing. Almost a year since I moved to Manchester having just led my first HVS & E1. Since then I've climbed loads more E1's, on-sighted E2 and solo'd an E3. 

I've rejigged my intermediate goals a bit now to factor in my ankle, and to make an early start on next years big goal of tech 6a. 

STG (2 weeks max) - attach fingerboard to pull up bar so can actually use it.
       - Work out baseline for pull ups/ fingerboarding

MTG - I've scratched out my previous slab goals. Haven't been able to climb consistently enough (weather & injury) and really not interested in headpointing slabs. I did top rope my E4 project a while back on the first go but after my recent slip, I'm putting it back into the pile of one to come back to. Instead MTG will be based around training upper body and core.
- Rehab ankle

LTG (end of 2020) - Lead 1 UK tech 6a

Boulders and some heavy training here! Which options are you going for? Winter?

Goals

STG: Establish good routines (new (academic) year, new me), evidenced by completing (or at least trying to complete) all planned sessions. Keep on the fit club posts(!).

MTG: Get up a 7A+ by the end of January

LTG: 7B boulder AND 8a route by 8th October 2020

You assume correctly! Will get an email to you. Much like AlanLittle I also can't do 6A+ moon board benchmarks, so I guess we really should start a splinter group. Shame there is sea between us! First week of the plan has been good, if unsurprising - it actually has included a lot of stuff I planned on working on anyway, albeit with far more structure in the wall sessions than I would have done without it. Plus it has forced me to do things I know I should do but never do because I hate them - the miracle of parting with some cash and having a small degree of percieved retribution for skipping sessions. Feels productive so far, but too early to judge. Lots of crimpd sessions in the below of course as a result.

Last Week (2019.41; L1.1)

M: 1) Yoga; 2) Linked boulders (6Cs) + 1 on/1 off (6b); 3) 5 x 5 +2.5kg pull ups; 4) Bike commute 10.6km

Tu: 1) Yoga; 2) BC 8.1km. Birthday, so ate terribly.

W: Strength Intervals (6B+ & C anti-style) + Varied ARC (6a)

Th: 1) Yoga; 2) Stabiliser conditioning + floor core; 3) BC 8.1km

Fr: 1) Yoga, pub (whoops).

Sa: Went to Manchester to get my van. Met up with a pal for an easy trad afternoon at  Castle Naze - Icebreaker (E2 5b)Scoop Direct (HVS 5a)Nozag (VS 4c)Keep Arête (VS 4b).

Su: Rainy, so went home. 1) Stabiliser conditioning; 2) Hip + leg flex.

Wall I thought was solid in my new place wasn't, so still don't have a fingerboard up. Meant I missed doing max hangs, otherwise all training done! Got a solution planned so should be solved for this week.

Thanks! I've gone through the 3 star 7a and 7a+s but no more... I feel like a bit of an imposter to be honest, like I have no right to be looking at such things. Weird I know, and not a helpful mindset.

M: took fitclub lurgy back to Oslo, ill

T: ill, spent day under duvet which seemed to fix things

W: indoor bouldering, 4x4 routes and antagonist / core / shoulder stability

Th: indoor sport, flashed a 7a+ - the second 7a+ I've ever tried. Strategically watched 3 other people climb it first until I was certain I could do it. 

F: antagonist, core

Sa: what a pointless day, it's been a wet year and now we're into the phase where nothing ever dries out. Drove all round the area looking for dry rock, found a single route, it rained while I was getting tied in. Did the first 3m then got to a soaking wet ledge. Bailed.

Su: tried a different crag, also pretty wet apart from one corner. Tried the world's hardest 6c and couldn't work out the crux move whatsover. Tied on to try a route I've been wanting to get on for weeks but it was already in the shade so too cold and my hands went numb before the second bolt. Belayed my partner on a random trad route he'd cleaned, but a foothold broke and he gashed open his palm and bled all over everything. No stitched needed fortunately, but a bit of a mess.

I guess it's indoor climbing from here on out, apart from Spain in December. The end of the season is a bit earlier this year than usual... daydreaming about squeezing in a weekend trip to somewhere warm asap...

Cheers Tom. It’s going much better than expected, thanks. Despite the loud crack and pain I don’t think it was a full rupture. I’ll never know without imaging and there’s not a lot of point as the treatment will still be the same. But it sure felt and looked like one. 

The only thing I can put it down to is it being less of a tear than first thought and using blood flow restriction. It’s the first time I’ve used it on myself for injury recovery and I’m convinced it’s made a big difference. 

10 days post injury I climbed. I’d done controlled hangs from day 4. Feet on the floor, just getting some input into it. I was very, very nervous climbing but managed to get a couple of purples done at The Big Depot. No reaction after.  Climbed again today up to the 6c+ circuit at BUK. Again it feels ok from it. By OK I don’t mean normal. It’s got a long way to go but I’m on the way back. 

This weekend I am going to enter, not compete in,  the BOB and just do what I can. I’ve paid for the entry and t shirt so I might as well go and enjoy it. 

DQS and calorie counting has been good. Spoiled on two days by booze, but not too much. 

Legs are progressing. I re tested my left pistol squat and I’m still collapsing at the bottom. I’m going to carry on though. 

Have you got a swanky pair of fruit boots or are you doing these in mtn boots and crampons? I've found it makes a world of difference! I reckon mtn boots adds 3 grades compared to something you can dance around in. 

I know!!! It's definitely not an easy wall for me - I have managed a problem called 'Introduction', so win for me. I still can't do Warmup and don't think I will be able to go to Mile End this week but I reckon the following week is the one! However, I did do the Barber's STG woody problem so need to decide on a new one.

Running was good last week. I did a couple of runs that made me feel more confident. When I started training the goal was to do 10 miles in 90 mins. My running speed has increased and I think I can keep going for 10 miles but I think my time will be more like 100/105 mins. I am quite excited now and hoping I feel good on the day and just need to keep telling myself to run through my brain and keep going.

Mon: morning gym - overhead, back and front squats. Boulder session in the evening including weighted pull-ups and front lever work. Also, sent my STG Raw Deal.

Tues: 83 min / 13.26km (8.24 miles) / 6:16/km run. Evening boulder at Mile End. Tried a vertical V6-8 and couldn't get off the ground. Did the blue comp problem and the red one that I was trying last week. Awful headache after running.

Weds: rest

Thurs: Lunchtime boulder at Barber's - did 'Skiver's Delight' on woody (6c), which I couldn't do at all on Monday.

Fri: morning movement gym and easy run - 49 min / 8.06km (5 miles) / 6:05/km. Bouldering in the evening on the new set at Barber's. Not a great session. Felt tired and hangry.

Sat: rest

Sun: Barber's run club - a few km easy jogging followed by hill sprints. Then a boulder at Mile End before breakfast - not a good idea! Finally managed the purple overhang that I have been trying for a few weeks. Think it's V1-3 but I have had an estimation from a reliable source called 'Guy' that it is a hard V3. Tried another V6-8 and did the first move which is around V2 and couldn't get any further. So, basically did it.

STG:
- Warmup on the training wall at Mile End. The climb is called 'Warmup' so not great for my ego.
- purple route in monkey house (F6b?)
- Raw Deal woody problem at Barber's Gym (6a+) - DONE
- Great South Run, 10 miles, 20 October
- attempt a V6-8 route per session at Mile End or similar at other walls - did that this week
- 10 muscle-ups using the purple and red bands
- regular 5 days of front lever work per week - 1 day this week
- 4 x 20kg pull-ups - this week I did 2 x 10kg, 2 x 20kg, 1 x 22.5kg, 1 x 25kg

MTG:
- muscle up
- front lever
- one rep 32kg weighted pull-up. I haven't measured my max 1 rep in a while but last week I did 2 x 20kg pull-ups and am fine doing 5 x 12.5kg so imagine I can go heavier.
- being able to climb a Mile End V6-8 problem after a few sessions

LTG: 
- muscle up and front lever might be better off in here but I am being hopeful
- 20 pull-ups
- flash 5 V6-8 routes at Mile End

Cheers. 8a+ would be consistent with WK/chimes at 8b. Yeah, I quite fancy the cave problem link but also psyched for chimes, so many options! I haven't tried pulling on the finger yet so I'm not sure how bad it is but I'm hoping it's not too much of a disaster. 

yup! very happy with how it was feeling after 1 session. very cool problem, although I think maybe a bit easy for 7A (although having only done 1 I don't have much basis for comparisson) 6C+ would be my guess, but the bouldering in Ireland book gives it 7A+ so what do I know! Didn't get out this week, next weekend though weather looks perfect so hopefully put it to bed then and maybe finally get on Carbide

Not the best week, but was feeling pretty knackered and sleeping badly. weirdly some good performances when I did get on things

M - Climbfit, hard session. went for a new PB on weighted pulls of 42.5KGx2, failed on the 2nd one, ho hum. hung the beastmaker 10mm edges w/ bodyweight for the 1st time, which was a surprise, I have the 10mm from euroholds and they feel umpteen times worse - i'd have more of a shot on the BM 8mm edges

T - Rest

W -Rest

Th - +22.5kg on BM 1000 bottom holds and +7.5kg on the middle 2 finger pockets. Might have to graduate to the lower rung 2 finger pockets at bodyweight, I think the middle ones are too big so not really pushing max effort

Fr - board session on max level probs (6 problems, 3 times w. 3 minute rests).  Stuck the 1st 2 moves on my hardest board project, which is a big upgrade from my previous best of zero moves!

Sa - mates 40th birthday party

Su - hangover (and guilt for not climbing)

Word up Tom!

Yeah lurgy sucks recovered now

No food goals but my goal for october is to climb a v6 at the wall

Tuesday: at the wall, re climbed couple of v4 problems, re climbed v5 problem, climbed new v5. Worked on v6 ...got to last move , feeling positive as I've got the rest of the month to nail this.
Worked a v7, I can only do first move

Thursday: wall again re climbed couple of v4 problems, climbed v5, worked on the technical rather than physical aspects of doing the last move on the v6.

Full of cold rest of the week so I played it safe and decided to rest.

Aim for October
Climb v6 at the wall

Thanks for stats Tom. Not all living the dream though: as I write this whilst sat in the van, the rain tips down outside and forecast shows more to come with what looks like primo grit conditions in Blighty. C'est la vie.

Mo: 20 low grade problems at Font.
Tu: raining, so decide to move on down south.
We: drive to Anglet.
Th: drive to Santander.
Fr: drive to Asturias.
Sa: 4 routes at Teverga and 1 at Quiros.
Su: 4 routes at Teverga.

Another schooling at Font, then head to northern Spain, via Anglet. Get on the bolts, which seem very high after Font! Not climbing hard, as just trying to build up endurance, with a view to stepping it up as I go. Cool crags, beautiful scenery and excellent van park at Teverga: think I'll kick around here for a bit. (This last bit might change given rain!).

Better late than never...

In reply to Tom Green:

Yea, I'm pretty pleased with the progress (and some friends who have been climbing on and off for a lot longer are a bit annoyed with it! Goes to show consistency is key!!). Re the deadlift, part of me thinks I'm psych'ing myself out and blaming the smallest (even imaginary?) niggle to avoid them!

Not had the best of weeks as far as climbing training, but I've started running and foot appears to be OK!

M - nowt

T - easy, flat 6k run (30 mins)

W - 2.5 hrs routes at the wall. Inherited some Red Chili shoes and not impressed with the grip. Took a fall on a bridgy corner type route and swang into a big hold that's left a nice scar on my back!

T - nowt

F - 7.6 k easy run (40mins)

S - met a friend for lunch and ended up drinking until 2am...

S - hangover

STG - work out a way to climb and run and do some ancillary exercises at the same time. 

MTG (by NYE)-  Bowderstone crack, but any bouldering outside would be a plus. Get some experience placing trad gear, even if it's just standing at a random crag and faffing about. Get running fitness up and weight down! Maybe try some 7a's at the wall - Managed some 6c's that were then downgraded to 6b recently...

LTG - Get myself in a good position to race and climb well next year - weighted pull ups, finger strength training etc after the new year! Tick off more Classic Rock and *** routes

All about the winter! Though think I’m going to get a home fingerboard so that I don’t go backwards whilst swapping the Climbing wall for Drytooling!

Can you email again with your email address in the message text? UKC seems to have gone all high security so your email hasn’t shown up in the sender address like it used to. 

No. In fact I’m currently making life as difficult for myself as possible... I’ve been too lazy to swap my dual points over to monos, too lazy to swap/sharpen my picks, too stingy to buy tools other than my trusty Quarks... essentially I’m an idiot and don’t deserve to get up anything!

Having occasionally climbed with mates’ fruit boots I reckon they take at least half a grade off compared to my heavy boots and dual points. When I’ve combined that with nicking their Nomics with proper tooling picks I reckon that’s another half grade. I should sort my life out really!

Cheers Tom, very last minute log in. Light week again 4x1km swims and 2x16km rides.

Yeah, getting a fingerboard at home has meant I've actually used it quite a bit more than I ever did previously - defiantly recommended!

All sorted now I see - thanks