/ UKC fit club week 269

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Keendan - on 13 May 2012
Morning Everyone.

Good to see a lot of psyche despite the British weather.

I'm quite busy so stats will be up this evening.

I posted Rich's first video a few weeks ago. Here is the second.

Post away!
biscuit - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I was whinging a bit last week and after doing sports routes for 6 mths and nothing else i fancied a change. I focussed on getting some recruitment work done as i wasn't going to gain much actual strength in a week for the comp.

M - went to a bouldering wall in 30 degree heat
T - fingerboard
W - boulder outside
T - 30 min climb around - aerocap type level
F - boulder comp
S - rest

The bouldering wall was a strange experience after not climbing on plastic for a long while. I went to see if it would be good to give some structure to my training. I find i am more motivated at the wall and can sort things like 4x4's easier as all the bouldering around here has no topos/grades. It's a small wall and a bit limited in imagination and is 40 mins drive away but beggars can't be choosers. Decided to enter the comp on Friday.

Fingerboard was really good with new PB's on the 4 holds i am prioritising. I haven't done hangs like this since mid march so that was a nice surprise.

Outdoor bouldering was doing stuff at my limit for an hour. It would appear my limit is lower than it used to be :0( No surprise really though as i haven't bouldered for a long while.

Boulder comp was good. 8 problems to do in 2 hrs then the final. No one climbed one problem so max of 70 points effectively available. I topped 4 first time, 1 second go, 1 4th go ( stupid mistake cost me points there ) and 1 i could only get the bonus point on so 51 in total. Winner got 67. It was a very different experience and i enjoyed it. I came joint 7th so missed out on the final ( 1st 6 went through to that ) but i only missed that due to 2 sponsored boulderers from the Andalucia climbing team came down from Seville for the comp. They were awesome to watch - awesome as in amazingly strong but no technique indoors. Quite amusing at times but they were strong enough to pull through footless. It was very obvious that i was lacking in power and timing.

DWS yesterday was amazing. What a weird experience. You know you're safe but you really don't want to fall. All the climbs are either completed or you climb to your absolute max, no shouting take. It sounds obvious but it's very tiring. I think i over gripped a lot and climbed very statically to be in control. It should have very positive transfers over to roped climbing as you become very aware of how much you have left in the tank and you have to have a go for it attitude.

I ended up with an all over body shake at one point due to adrenalin and had to work a rest for 10 mins while i calmed down. Hard to grade the routes as there is no clipping etc involved but they were all very physical. Highlights were coming the closest anyone has to on-sighting one route before taking the 10 mtr plunge from the top. I had done the crux but just couldn't hold on anymore, it could have been the biggest jug in the world and i wouldn't have held it. Topped one out at about 15 metres, what a buzz that was. I will be back for more.

Resting today as i am battered and have barnacle rash on my legs and stomach from flailing about trying to get out.
biscuit - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Forgot to say thanks for doing fit club again Dan.
Si dH - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. Poor week for me this week.

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 4**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon and Scoop Wall**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
- A goal to be set for summer trad trip - not sure where it'll be yet (I'd love to have a crack at Foil)
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (8*7a, 4*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+) **if I take the lower grades that some controversial routes get, this means I need 1*7b and 1*7b+**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - see below

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **need 4*7a+, 3*7b, 2*7b+ and 1*7c**

Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s

M: nothing - resting finger
T: ditto
W-F: nothing - away with work - drunk and ate far too much!
S: Cratcliffe. Finally got on Five Finger Exercise. Got the sequence wrong for first crux, ended up crimping a tiny rugosity and it broke - fell off. Went back up and got it fine second go ground up, but motivation and psyche to do the top had all gone. Had a play on the move in to the flake then decided to escape out right. Then seconded my partner on it and it felt like a path. Lower crux still felt hard though - was surprised how much harder I found it than the top flake. Anyway, after that I decided to try Tom Thumb. I got round the lip, al the jams are bomber, but then couldnt get my foot up round the lip - a combination of lack of flexibiltiy and lack of headspace to really pull hard (ie cut loose a bit) and go for it. I was still suffering mentally from failing on FFE. It was also roasting hot. So I lowered off.
S: nothing - gardening and wedding prep.

Overall very disappointed with performances yesterday and did no training. However at least the weather was better, I didnt feel my finger tendon much and my climbing partner had a really good day. Things will get better!

Ian Bell - on 13 May 2012
Hi all

Goal routes for the year

Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).

MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Do a trad road trip over jubilee bank holidays, possibly cornwall.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep.

Short week to report on this week as not back from Font till Tuesday.

Thurs - bouldering @ WW. First indoor bouldering for ages and enjoyd it. Did a load of problems between I guess V1-V3. Started working a V5 with horrible slopers for hands and feet, in fact just like font! feel like it'll go in a bit, never managed V5 @ the WW before.

Sat - checked out the biscuit factory for the first time. Good although seems to be lacking a bit of the atmosphere of the old Arch. Grades still soft though! Did around a dozen of the V3-V5 circuits and maybe another dozen problems V1-V3 ish. Good session.

Should get in a couple of indoor sessions next week and then Portland at the weekend, psyched. Depending on where i can persuade people to go aiming to get on England Dreaming or Zinc Oxide Mountain. Maybe also try and finish off Julie Ocean after being defied by weather last time.

AJM - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

Monday - work, boo! Fingerboard session when I got home, good progress still - some weighted pullups, some offset pullups, some open handed rail hangs, some sloper hangs and some pocket hangs
Tuesday - was going to go outside but the rain was moving faster than planned up towards Bristol so I went indoors. Good session, got some more oranges - seem to have got to well over half the circuit without really noticing.
Wednesday - feeling pretty battered. Indoors again. Didn't really manage to get any more new problems done but I repeated some and tried some. Bit of a mini-breakthrough though - actually got the knack of campusing! Started easy compared with the strong folks (1-2-4, then 1-2.5-4.5, then 1-3-5) but for once I felt like I was actually launching myself dynamically at the rungs rather than trying to do a lockoff and then slap approach. Psyched to try and integrate this into my regular training, I think it will be a good change, shock the system a bit. The campus board has half spaced rungs too, so I've got easy progression available towards what I guess is the next big milestone of 1-4-6.
Thursday - rest, battered
Friday - got into work at 740 to try and get out early to climb. Got to 430 and I was about to pack up when I got asked "have you got a sec"...... Left at 6, bit late by then so nothing done. Boo!
Saturday - fingerboard. More progress, can now do an actual 8 second or whatever nestling 35s hang, which I've never been able to do before, can just about do front 2 on the bottom rung pockets, going to have to add weight to the 3-finger open handed hangs on the rails next time, and up to 3x7x(+5kg) on the weighted pullups. Can sort of do bottom rung pockets middle 2 as well now although I'm going to give it another week or so before moving into really training those - stick with the bigger middle rail pockets for the time being. Then into London for much booze.
Sunday - still in London, going to hit the fingerboard when I get home.

Very much a week of two halves for me.
- Frustrated to not be able to get outside at all. I also really need to find a project to engage with - I'm not feeling my usual focus at the moment outdoors because I don't think I've currently got a proper project on the go.
- Really pleased with the campusing progress, silly as that may sound, and also with steady fingerboarding progress - I think the change to doing quite a lot of quite "basic" training is acting as a bit of a shock to my system, good to keep it fresh. Hopefully I'll be able to get out an evening this week and next weekend, maybe try and get on Draggin Along at Cheddar which is a contender for a 7c+ project if it feels ok, heard good things about it.
biscuit - on 13 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

I keep not posting my goalstargets for the week which is bad as one of the points of this thread is stating them publicly to motivate you.

New pyramid for 7b+

7b+ 0/1
7b 1/2
7a+ 3/4
7a 12/8

STG - 2 weeks

On-sight 7a
RP 7a+ 2nd go -Commando Julay @ Cauche. Had 1 TR on it so i'm going to ab down and put clips in and then lead it.

MTG - 6 weeks

Onsight another 7a - i want to keep my on-sighting up
RP another 2 or 3 7a+'s. This will take me over my pyramid amount but i feel i need more experience at this level.
RP 7b - busy few weeks ?

LTG - 14 weeks

Try to consolidate 7a on-sighting.
RP another 7b - again i want a more broad base to my pyramid.
RP 7b+ I have chosen Rasca y Pica at Cauche. Powerful start into a crap rest then funky technical fingery moves to the top. It's local i've been on it and it's a line i loved as soon as i saw it. I had to rest 4 times on TR though so it'll be hard work.

RP Cenizo (7c) in 2012

More detail here:

I forgot to mention that i seem to have fixed my elbow. i was getting quite worried so re checked my research ( internet self diagnosis is a wonderful thing ) and realised i had been doing the exercise the wrong way round. Oops ! A few days of doing it properly and it's fine now.

Busy week this week. i can see one chance for a roped climbing session after work but then Mrs Bisuit is back in the UK from Friday.

I need to find somewhere local that i can train. Simon i climbed with yesterday was showing me his training spots he uses on the way to and from work. 1/2 an hour here or there adds up if you do it everyday. He uses bridges, stone walls and any bit of rock near the road for circuits etc. I need to get doing the same and actually do some pump training rather than just keep planning to do it.

biscuit - on 13 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

> I need to find somewhere local that i can train.

How stupid am i

I have a 3 star crag less than 10 mins from my house. Get up early and i can be there and back within an hour and get a decent circuit session in on the bottom of the routes.

Will have to check it out tomorrow morning but there are two areas i can think of that may produce a decent circuit for me.
andy - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Away for the bank holiday weekend (and the weather was vile) so didn't manage much this week.

M: away and travelling
T: nothing
W: 50m lumpy bike ride
T: went to the races, drank beer
F: nothing
S: 70m very lumpy bike ride
S: hurty legs
JayK - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

So went for my first run in 8 weeks today. Entered the Cobra Classic (10K Road Race). My fitness was showing and I got absolutely massacred in the middle. Despite that I still managed a good sprint finish. Nothing like the times I'd been pulling out before Font. 46.30. Awful. Going to do another one in June and with a few training session in the middle will hopefully be around/sub 40 again.

M- Work/Rest (not really a rest)
T- Work/Core exercises - 150sit-ups/50press-ups - Too tired to do anything else so went to bed.
W- Work
T- Work (school trip to London - 7am-11pm)
F- Bouldering at new wall in West Brom. Very impressed. Going to be using the Beastmaker system board as a training wall for Swiss in summer. Next visit is Thursday.
S- Rest
S- 10K Road Race. Might do some sit-ups this evening.
grubes - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan.

STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Onsight E2/3
CLimb long/multipitch E1/HVS
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):

This weeks goals:
Climb a couple of times - Tick
Rest up and recover - Fail

M: Burbage West boulering. Tried WSS and the nose but got nowhere.
Burbage North bouldering. Flashed a 6A (lost in france). Fell badly off of the curse and hurt both my knees and hurt my hands. Rested then put banana Fingers(6A) to bed another project put to bed after a long period of trying.
T: Rest
W: Rokt uninspired session about 2.5 hours mainly in the training room.
T: Rest
F: Rokt taking my nephew climbing he is improving so fast. He made me climb on the comp wall and training room.
S: Holmfirth session bouldering. Nothing proper new but some 6A-6Bish eliminates done.
S: Almscliff bouldering. Warmed up and tried to repeat morrills wall. Heard several clicks in my left middle followed by pain .. oh shit!. Taped up and climbed nothing fingery. Tried a couple of steep juggy 6B's got very close to one. Tried pebble wall and felt doable if I was 100%. Took it easy. Today I was almscliff's bitch!

Next Weeks goals:
Rest and see how finger is.
Climb at the weekend.

So I think my mistake was climbing too much and not resting. I only have myself to blame ... I hope it is not a pulley.
Keendan - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (268) thread:
Posters: 30
AJM – It’s great that you manage to have days pushing your limits every week. Good point about twisting on offset pull ups. I’ve been doing them in the “easiest” orientation with hands facing each other. I might start trying both hands facing away now for a bit.
Biscuit – Hope your comp went well. Maybe elbow injury is an excuse to do some CV?
Joughton – Great stuff Jake, you seem to be keeping up quite a pace.
Si_dH – Shame about the injury, but I’m sure you’ll have the discipline to rest it. Again, maybe Finger injury + High weight = perfect time for CV?
NMN – Solid Week
Mattrm – Looking forward to hearing how the ultra went.
Seankenny – Good discipline with the lap sessions. Sounds like you’ve tweaked it to the right level of intensity. Well done on Chequer’s crack, which is hard!
Richardh – Scary times. Hope it doesn’t put you off your hard projects.
IanRUK – Your mileage is consistently mind blowing.
JimmyKay – Nice week. Charlie’s overhang looks cool.
Grubes – Glad you had a great trip. A different kind of rock is always a valuable experience too.
IanT – Welcome! Sounds like a good varied week. Don’t over train/get injured, but at the same time it’s good to see you get stuck in with every part of training.
Murd – Take care, stay fit. Maybe see you back in the future.
Kevster – Good stuff Kev, keep up the volume.
Andy – Good week. Sorry to hear you have to work…! Do doubt you’ll manage to squeeze fitness in as well.
Nomics4Sale – You get good days and bad days. You can’t really judge your ability/improvement by single routes good or bad. The HVS sounds nice.
GordyB – Big race, well done, and getting by without injury also deserves some credit!
Jgustafsson – Doesn’t sound like you have any problem with training hard enough (I kike the track session). Just take care with injury. Better to be cautious before your races
Chris05 - Strong sessions again. Hope you get a chance to put it to use outdoors sometime.
Mrchewey – Sounds unlucky for you. Hope you find some more time during the week.
Eagle River – Solid week throwing yourself at 7s. Good luck with Space Race. You can only do as much as the weather allows.
Steve John B – Looks quite unusual to have 4 rest days, and then train everything at once! Still, whatever works for you/what your time allows…
Quiddity – Sounds like a truly engaging project. Good luck
Liam M – Solid week. Looking forward to hearing about the race.
Hokkyokusei – Decent mileage. If you sleep that much it often means you needed the rest!
Ian Bell – It’s good that you’ve highlighted weaknesses to work.
Ayuplass – Good to get climbing outdoors, hope the weather allows you to do more.
Ali – Useful week.
Leon – Good training. It will take a while for you to get used to being stronger and for it to have an effect on your climbing. First trad day out isn’t usually very encouraging, but you’ll get it back.
Stone_donkey – keep at it, Throw yourself at 6as and you’ll start to onsight them
ayuplass - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Mon - snow in snowdonia meant a change of plan. Beacon wall led 3 routes up to 4c and 2nd 4 routes
Tues - bramble buttress at tremadog. Lovely route, cold day
Weds - rest
Thurs - rest, still tired
Fri - easy cardio at gym, 45 min. Drive to Hathersage
Sat - stanage. Led HVD & Sev 4a
Sun - tired. Rivelin - 2nd 3 v diff then went home for a nice lie down

Good week for climbing, 3 days outdoors! I'm surprised how tiring I am finding a full crag day, maybe it's still early in the season and I'll get used to it soon. Felt like going home on Sunday morning cos I was tired but glad I made myself carry on even though I only seconded stuff. Want to be able to climb for more than one day without needing a rest in-between!
Keendan - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M-As a hilarious anti climax to our amazing weekend in Portland, we dogged a dripping E1 at Symonds Yat before walking out in a thunderstorm. Makes you appreciate the good days...

T-Woodie, finally made a circuit that I can use for power endurance
W-Run, 36min, 6:52 mile pace. Happy with this for maintenance
T-Woodie, circuits
F-Offset pull ups and slow wide pull ups

So now I have a means to measure endurance training. I need to try at least 3 sets of 3 laps. At the moment I can only do a couple of sets of 2 laps. Excited about improving over the next few weeks.
JayK - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Dan, do you have any summer climbing plans?

Also I'm currently looking at driving out to Swiss on the 17th July for 3 weeks and then heading to Ceuse for a week (maybe 2) and returning towards the end of August. Have one spare seat in the car at the moment if anyone was keen. Thought I'd put it out there. <--- This is an offer to any Fit clubber although I don't know how many super keen boulderers there are.
Keendan - on 13 May 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Thanks Jimmy, but I'm not free till late August
Cheers for the offer, I would be up for something different like that.

richardh - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

cheers Daniel,

Tues: no chance
Thurs: work got in way
Sun: Masson Lees Quarry - good main wall, unfortunately 80% wet, did some easy stuff on other side and a crimpy/glued together 7a which was good, but I ran out of juice near the top. 6b+ and a 6c ( if only just ).

Well worth a return visit if in condition, but showed up poor recent fitness I think as I'd expect three decent 7a attempts in a day, not just one.
leon on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (done).
MTG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (done).
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(3). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 15(60)
Fat %: 10.7
Focus: Hypertrophy (2/3)

Mon: Weights. Core.
Tue: Travel to Lakes.
Wed: Gimmer (HVS & e2).
Thu: ARC. Repeaters.
Fri: Push-ups & pull-ups. Core.
Sat: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Sun: Bouldering @ Plantation (max V5). Horseshoe (1 6b & 1 attempt @ 7a)

Thanks Dan.

Great day in the lakes on Wednesday. Nice, comfortably challenging trad climbing in an amazing location. Climbing at its best as far as I am concerned.

I noticed the last couple of years that training takes a backfoot when the climbing season kicks off. I'm OK with this but I want to avoid resting the night before a climbing day if its not a rest day (previous years I always rest the day before climbing). I don't think I climb near enough my physical limit for a tired body to effect my performance that much. I am trying to make any training the night before not climbing specific but this weekend the schedule didn't allow this.

Sunday was suppossed to be a trad day but it was way too windy @ Plantation so we decided to boulder. Got two V5s to add to my pyramid. One of them was a repeat of Jerry's Finish(a repeat), I am allowing it into the pyramid because today I did it static (this seemed a million miles off last year) rather than dynamic as I did last year. Went over to Horseshoe in the afternoon to try the 7a again........... So the good news is I took

falls several moves higher than previous, the highest being at the end of the crux sequence. I can do the route in one every time I top rope it but on lead I'm noticing that my head demands any move I do to feel right (by right I think I mean repeatable). So I spent 15 falls working a good sequence to the final move before I ran out of beans or balls. I think taking the increasingly larger falls is probably worth more than getting to the top!

STG: A VIR session
MTG: 7a???
NMN - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Daniel.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).

MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon

M - nothing.
T - 6.22m road/trail run, 262ft.
W - nothing.
T - 15.01m road/trail run, 794ft.
F - Local crag, messing about in approach shoes with rucksack.
S - nothing.
S - 8.89m trail run, 879ft.

Felt tired after last week, weekly mileage was ok though.
I wasn't great at climbing in approach shoes, with rucksack. I haven't climbed for so long that maybe it would have been better if I had roped up for Severes for a session first.
Steve John B - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan.

M - 4 mile undulating trail run (up 300', down 800'), weights. have got used to running on towpaths, the slightest incline seems really hard work.
T - rest
W - rest - feeling bit low, no energy
T - 4.7 mile undulating trail run (up 300', down 500'), paths absolutely drenched. weights.
F - rest
S - rest
S - 3.2 mile / 300' trail run. weights

aborted bike ride on monday due to large hole in tyre. now fixed, hoping to get out a few times this week.
JBO on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan,

Despite this week being the supposed hard-core revision week, I actually got more stuff done outside than I had in the previous month or something so very happy! I did my first 7c and another E4 onsight so a great week all round. The 7c took four redpoint attempts over two sessions, so hopefully harder grades will follow soon.

Mon - Bank Holiday, went with Luke to Raven Tor. Warmed up on an onsight attempt at Tin Of, which was a silly thing to do and got flash pumped on the crux. Anyway got up it after a rest. Did a bit of bouldering, flashed two 6Cs then got on Another Toadside Attraction (7c). Worked it on lead bolt to bolt then gave it a go on the redpoint. Got pumped, fell off after the low crux. Gave it another go, but was too tired to make any progress.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Small pull-up session to leave time for revision.
Thurs - Revision
Fri - Returned to Raven Tor after school - a very cool way to spend my friday night... anyway warmed up putting the clips in Toadside, did all the moves on the dog. Got on, slipped off, came down, got on again and it went pretty cruisily, if a little shakily (four bolts in 20m!). Still had some left in the tank so had a few goes on The Toilet on a toprope - potential 8a project...
Sat - Revision
Sun - Revision becoming too stressful so escaped to Hobby... warmed up on the traverse then onsighted my third E4, went pretty okay but I was quite pumped, but the gear was mostly good so wan't too scary. Then followed Dad up a sketchy E3 before slipping off the crux of a E3 6a, which was kinda annoying but I got it straight after.

So a good week, and a bit of an eye opener into the benefits of Redpointing, might have to do some more of it and will hopefully finish the summer having done an 8a.

First exam tomorrow, wish me luck!

mattrm - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for doing the stats Dan.

Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 2lbs

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Stretches
T - Core and stretches
F - Stretches
S - 40miles, 2800meters of ascent, 13 hours
S - Rest

I FINISHED!!! I knew my ITB was going to play up so took the whole thing easy and ended up helping the other guy who ended up being last over the tricky final section. I spent most of the race in last place and totally alone, which was odd. It felt like all the marshals were just out there for me and only me. I quite liked that, made me feel quite special. Sounds odd, but that was it. The worst section was fairly early on as I wasn't familiar with that part of the Beacons (it's home turf otherwise) and once I'd got onto familiar territory I knew exactly where I was going, so knew what was still to go, which was a great boost. The worst section was also very boggy, I was up to my knees in a bog, twice. Feeling pretty stiff now, but the worst is my knee for sure.

Now back to the climbing till the OMM (assuming I get a place).
Keendan - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

*pembroke, not porltand
seankenny - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Hey Dan, thanks for putting these up.

Goals: F7a+, E3, El Cap

M: Wasted from day trip to Peak.
T: Laps, 8 laps, 2m40s on, 2m off (tho up to 3m sometimes). Fell off last moves of last lap. 3x10 press ups.
W: Laps 6 laps, 2m40s on, around 2m/2m10s rest. Second day on and late from work, so a bit tired and tight for time. Not quite to failure but v pumped after.
T: Feeling a bit ill, slight fever.
F: Rest at home.
S: Rest at home.
S: Portland, still feeling a bit ill. Did a 6a+, 6b, 6c+, 6b, 6a. Excellent day, perfect conditions but the crag was quiet, where was everyone?!

Excellent week in the end. Training was good but then I felt ill and grotty. Didn't expect to do much today - just thought I be belaying - but got going and ended up flashing a 6c+ - one of my hardest every flashes. Result! Obviously it had the draws in and I'd seen my friend on it, but even so, I was very please with this.

Felt a bit frustrated earlier on in the week tho. I find that living in London, with long commutes and sometimes long working hours, makes it hard to do all the training I would like. I'd have loved to get a run or two in this week but it was not to be, I felt wiped out from climbing. It does make getting a base of fitness for big walling is a bit tricky, but the climbing is going well which is the important thing. Have discovered that doing short intense sessions is the way forward...
AJM - on 13 May 2012
In reply to AJM:

Had a short fingerboard in the end tonight. No pullups just some hangs.
- Managed the 35s again.
- Got the 3 finger dead hangs open hand on the rails with +5kg - result!
- Back 2 dead hangs at body weight, just about - result!
- More front 2 on the small rails and middle 2 and the bigger pockets

More progress from the fingerboarding, happy with that.
Quiddity - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Great work on the 7c, knew you had it in you! From the sounds of things you can still gain a few grades just by refining redpoint tactics. 4 attempts is pretty fast My advice would be do another couple of routes you can tick quickly (ie. a day or two) to get the hang of making the process as efficient as possible, before you move on to something more challenging.
Eagle River - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for keeping us going Daniel.

STG (May 2012): Climb at Kilnsey and tick 1x7b+
MTG (end of 2012): Get on a 7c, (Tremelo, New Dawn or something at Kilnsey)

Only got a couple of indoor sessions in this week.

Wed: Routes indoors - Fell again from the 7b/7b+ on the main wall at MCC, fell much higher this time after pissing about with my feet and getting an unexpected toe hook on another route's hold. Fell again on my second attempt lower down when my foot slipped doing the 2nd crux. Really nice route though so I'll keep trying it. Had two goes at another 7b, then two goes at a different 7b but my energy fell off a cliff edge and I started climbing really badly.

Fri: First indoor bouldering session for a really long time, at least over a month I think. Pleased to still get some V6s 1st/2nd attempt and a V6/7 felt close later on but skin faded fast. Next day everything ached, back, shoulders, forearms and still does 3 days later. Must keep a bouldering session in regularly every week as I simply don't do that level of hard moves on routes.

Went to a big 2 day wedding event last weekend which also took up the bank holiday monday and lots of drink and not much sleep meant pretty lethargic performance all week. Won't get out this coming weekend (anniversary), might get a sneaky day next weekend so I need to get another sneaky mid-week outdoors session in if I've any chance to get on Space Race before the end of May.

Poor weather and general non-climbing life stuff is getting in the way of goals. Stupid idea picking one of the last routes to dry out at Malham as my main choice. Need to arrange life better/dissappoint wife more with my absence to get more days outdoors too.

All this beastmaker training talk has made me feel sufficiently lazy so mine is coming out this week for at least one session. How have people been starting off a fingerboarding period in terms of benchmarking? I figure I need to work out what i'm capable of now (in terms of max hangs) to get an idea of progress if I manage to keep at it.
Quiddity - on 14 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Sounds like a good week, sometimes you need a bit of a change to remind you why you bother (ie. it's all supposed to be fun at the end of the day)

> How stupid am i
> I have a 3 star crag less than 10 mins from my house. Get up early and i can be there and back within an hour and get a decent circuit session in on the bottom of the routes.

Have you tried shunting at all? Is it practical at any of the venues near where you are? I have contemplated using a clipstick and solo belay (ie. a gri-gri) to get the rope up routes at portland, to rig it for working on a shunt - but have never got round to actually doing it - getting to the crag is my limiting factor, not lack of partners.
Quiddity - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

> Stupid idea picking one of the last routes to dry out at Malham as my main choice

Easy to say with the benefit of hindsight, who would have thought april/may would be so wet though? Don't know if we've been unlucky this year not to have had a spring window of decent dry conditions there, or if last year was unusually good...?

> All this beastmaker training talk has made me feel sufficiently lazy so mine is coming out this week for at least one session. How have people been starting off a fingerboarding period in terms of benchmarking? I figure I need to work out what i'm capable of now (in terms of max hangs) to get an idea of progress if I manage to keep at it.

Personally I might suggest having a couple of sessions breaking in before you benchmark. a) if I try to do performance-oriented stuff too soon (ie. benchmarking) I go too hard and end up injured. and b) I suspect the progress made in the first few fingerboard sessions is mostly neuro-muscular adaptions that are specific to the fingerboard and not really representative of a generalised strength gain - so benchmarking after you have made this initial progress would give you a better idea for like-for-like comparison. On the other hand, a good solid bounce in performance is good for the ego and for motivation

stand on a set of bathroom scales, see how much weight you can hang on various holds/with various finger combinations, has been my benchmarking strategy.
grubes - on 14 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Sounds like a fun week. So you have DWS near you too ... I think I need to quit the UK too.
Eagle River - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

Thanks for that, so probably better to do some repeaters then some max hangs without getting too particular about recording durations for this first week?
chris05 - on 14 May 2012
Thanks again Daniel, your effort and comments are much appreciated.

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (3 done - 2 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4.5m run, BM: 2 arm max hangs only using f2 on right hand to avoid dodgy finger, left hand selection of 2 finger pockets including sloped bottom pockets with front and middle two. Mono's for middle fingers. Front lever progressions. Theraband & eccentrics.
T: 4m run. BM: assisted one arm pull-ups and left arm max hangs. Front lever progressions. Theraband & eccentrics.
W: 3m run
T: 3m run, BM: 2 arm max hangs only using f2 on right hand to avoid dodgy finger, left hand selection of 2 finger pockets including sloped bottom pockets with front and middle two. Mono's for middle fingers. Personal bests on most hangs. Front lever progressions - quite close now. Theraband & eccentrics.
F: rest
S: Bouldering and easy trad at Curbar, did lots of nice easy stuff and finished with a 7A.
S: Skin and triceps sore so went to work. Theraband & eccentrics.

Great week for training and actually got out and did some climbing too!
Quiddity - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

I suspect I am rather a bad model for beastmaking but yeah that is my approach. I figure listening to how my fingers/forearms feel rather than focusing on beating the stopwatch, in most of my sessions, tends to produce far fewer minor pulls and tweaks. Especially if I am getting back into fingerboarding regularly or stepping up the volume. I think this is a really personal thing, though, I know I have quite a tendency for overcooking my fingerboard sessions, so my need is to find a way to rein that in. Yes perhaps I could be hanging for 0.3 of a second longer but if my fingers/forearms hurt too much to use the fingerboard 70% of the time, I'm getting weaker not stronger, right?

That being said I am in need of getting the scales out and having a proper benchmark session - perhaps tonight?
Eagle River - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

It sounds like a sensible approach. When I was motivated for fingerboarding previously I injured my fingers outdoors (didn't re-warm up properly between routes at malham) so stopped and didn't pick it up again for fear of aggravating them.

That doesn't explain why I haven't started it again now my fingers have been fine for about 6 months but no time like the present!
biscuit - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

I actually have a troll rocker and the top of the lower crag is accessible from the upper tier. It just scares the poop out of me shunting on my own. I've scouted it out but never manned up to actually do it.
biscuit - on 14 May 2012
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> Sounds like a fun week. So you have DWS near you too ... I think I need to quit the UK too.

It's 2 hrs away but well worth the drive. Never done it before and it's a mad experience that you learn a lot from.
Nomics4sale - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan and morning all.

STG: onsight more HVS's, onsight 6c, do Ingleton circuit in one, boulder V5 x 4 at boulderUK
MTG: Lead HVS in Torridon, V6 at boulderUK

Mon: Ingleton wall bouldering, working a circuit
Tues: 6 mile run Pendle Hill, 350m ascent
Wed: Kendal wall, 10 routes onight up to 6c+
Thurs: Clitheroe wall, 14 problems
Fri: nowt
Sat: north wales slate quarries, onight up to 6b, and RP another (hard!) 6b
Sun: Llanberis pass, repeating trad routes, led up to UK 4c.

Did a lot of climbing this week. Really enjoyed working the Ingleton ciruit so I've added doing it as one of my STG's. Nice to have an inspiring indoor goal for when the weather craps out.

Also really enjoyed the Pendle Hill run. New route for me and its a good un, all off road.

Bit disappointed with the weekend, would have preferred to do trad on saturday as I was super psyched but it wasn't up to me. Slate was good though. I got spat off a 6b with a really hard and reachy bouldery move, did it clean 2nd go. And the 6c next to it looked even harder so I just pottled along to another 6b instead. Sunday was a bit windy and blah blah blah lots of excuses but basically I didn't get on any HVS's.

Torridon now in my diary for Jubilee BH, should be good.
Quiddity - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan!

Goal - FT

M: Castle, bouldering - quite a long session. Did boulder ladder, did some problems on the slab, finished up getting good and pumped doing link ups in the catacombs.
T: Fingerboard - max hangs.
T: Short strength session. Offset pull ups, travelling lock offs (rock rings), campus (quite poor). Short threshold boulder on wave.
S: Cuttings - sunny. Warmed up on Too Many Cooks, then straight on to FT. 3 Working goes. Still feeling the training session a bit in my shoulders. Climbed with a new partner who was also on the route (and dispatched it quickly! inspiring.) - picked up some really good beta especially for getting into the undercuts, and a totally new sequence for the upper crux. Didn't quite manage the clean link from undercuts to the end of the crux. Utterly beasted by end of session.
S: Cuttings - super sunny! Warmed up on Another Notch, then failed to retro-flash Live By The Sword by some margin. (Think it will make ok 2nd warm up when I have it wired again though.) 3 goes on FT, once getting clips in and 2 more when it came round into shade. Working on the move past the arete and into the undercuts. Tweaked the sequence and did the missing moves (getting stood up on undercuts and clipping). Best link on last go of the day, did the crux in 2 overlapping halves - got from the rest to a move or two past the undercuts, and then from the undercuts to the clip above the crux. Ace - helped by perfect conditions on the last go of the day, shade following lots of sun, with a cool northerly breeze at about 3pm seemed the key.

Not enough actual climbing during the week - think this combined to switching into project mode at the weekends is a recipe for moving backwards over the medium term. Need another session of routes or circuits midweek really.

FT coming together slowly. Still making a little bit of progress every go - think I now have my sequence finalised, it's just a case of polishing it and getting some longer links. New beta (and seeing someone make it work) was probably biggest boost so far. I think doing it in the summer is going to be ok, good conditions are there to be had in the evenings, they are just a bit fickle - one minute it's amazing, the next it's just greasy enough to make it quite a lot harder.
AJM - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

Sounds like good progress Nick.

Also, well done to seankenny for the 6c+!
AJM - on 14 May 2012
In reply to AJM:

Oh, and to Joughton for the 7c and mattrm for the suffer-fest ;)

Many achievements this week, good to see
Eagle River - on 14 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Love the latest blog post!
grubes - on 14 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Oh yeah forgot to ask how hot would it be in el chorro the last week in september? Looking like I may be planning a trip then
Ali - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan.

In terms of targets, I've met the (very) short term ones I set myself in March and medium term over the summer is just to maintain fitness...think I probably need to have a bit of a look at longer term goals for the autumn and next year.

Anyway, last week was a bit of a strange one - I was doing the Live Below the Line challenge for the week (see for more info), so living on just £1 a day for food Mon-Fri. Interesting experiment - I found I was eating enough that I wasn't hungry, but I didn't feel particularly satisfied and didn't really have any energy spare for climbing. This combined with a bit of a tweaky finger and elbow meant I had mostly a rest week, followed by a lovely sunny weekend in the sun! Back up to full protein rations this week and lots of fruit and veg, so hopefully will have more energy to exercise.

M - 25min run
T - nothing (well half hour walk)
W - same as Tuesday
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - Friend's hen do in Portland - onsighting easy stuff. The 'surprise' bit of the hen do was Tim Emmett turning up, which was pretty cool. He got us to climb up a 5 one handed (on top rope) which was really useful for thinking about body position, judging distances and hitting holds dynamically. Onsighted a 6b+ which I was quite pleased with - really need to get better at onsighting as I'm very prone to wimping out...probably one to add to my goals.
S - Lack of sleep didn't help climbing plans. Headed to the new bit at the cuttings where the routes were lovely and unpolished! Ticked 5+ and 6a no problem and got one of the 6bs second go - really annoyed I blew the onsight but it was really really cruxy and it took me a while reaching up from the bolt just to find the tiny crimps...grrrr - guess that's the downside of new routes - no polish or chalk to show you where to go!

Great weekend, but didn't feel like I really pushed myself as much as I could have done mentally and physically - but then the point of the weekend wasn't just climbing, so probably not surprising!
Curious Yellow - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan.

So much for good intentions! Two weeks worth of update to make up for last week's slackness.

Goals Update
Start work on F7c+ pyramid - 1x 7b done

Mon - Fingerboard.
Tues - Castle. Short campus. Wave. Boulder up to yellow.
Wedns - Rest. Feeling a bit ill.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Falling off Want Out in the rain. Totally trashed myself.
Sun - Cuttings. Falling off Want Out in the sun. Ditto totally trashed.
Mon - Castle. Short campus. Boulder up to V5.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Castle. Boulder up to yellow. Messed around on beastmaker for a bit and hung the 45 slopers for the first time.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. RP Want Out. Took the afternoon off
Sun - Cuttings. Had a look at Nightmare Scenario. Can't do the hard move but made decent progress otherwise, feeling keen.

JBO on 14 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity: Cheers for the advice, my next target is a 7c+ at the Tor too, called Rooster Booster. Apparently it's alright for the grade, it's a 15m power-endurance traverse on small crimps and slopey pockets in a break which I think will suit my style. The sequence seems to be pretty straight-forward so hopefully it won't take too much working, hopefully I'll get in a couple of proper working sessions.
IanT - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. I am trying to keep an eye on over training and being sensible!

M - Climbing slabs at UEA wall, around 5b/c level.
T - Rest - felt tired
W - Rest - felt ill
T - Rest - felt ill
F - Rest - 12 hour day at work
S - Climbing at The Cragg. Plently of overhang climbing at 4 / 5 level.
S - Called into work for 12 hours

Overall, not a very good week in terms of exercise but this properly was more from bad luck! For climbing, I have always disliked overhangs but my climbing partner was particularly keen on them and gave me the push I needed to get on them. I know feel more comfortable on them! This week, planning to get two climbs and a run under my belt, Monday already a write off!
AJM - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow:

I'm not sure whether to offer bigger congrats for Want Out or for hanging the 45s!
GordyB on 14 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M - rest
T - 5 mile easy road run
W - 4 mile trail run
T - 4 mile hill run, 500m
F - 4 mile hill run, 350m
S rest
S rest

Big hill run today (monday) 10miles 1500m - lots of cold slushy snow above 900m, then easier week. Jura Fell race, week Saturday. Legs feeling heavy and tired, so taking it easier on the hills from now to be totally fresh for Jura.

Curious Yellow - on 14 May 2012
In reply to AJM:
Thanks - I know which I'm more surprised by!! It only works on the wall beastmaker though, not at home...
Liam M - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers

Lighter week in run upto Leeds Half

4x Cycle commute plus

Mon: Couple of hours easy MTB
Tue: 9k run, including c7k at target HM pace
Wed: Rest
Thu: 8k easy run
Fri-Sat: Rest
Sunday: 3k warm up, plus Leeds Half Marathon in 90.57 a new PB!

Had a rather good HM. Conditions were rather good other than a little bit of breeze at one point on the ring road (c13k in), and felt little effect from the hills. Start was a bit annoying due to no penning except for sub 85min, and road narrowing fairly early, so brought to a standstill within 150m (there may have been a rather large profanity released!). I suffered a stitch that killed pace a little in the last 3k.

Generally quite happy with the outcome - not quite the 90min I may have hoped for, but still a reasonable pb and suggesting the volume of training is paying off. With a slighter flatter course (it's not that slow but worth a small amount), a cleaner start and if I can get around stitch free sub-90 feels so much more in reach.

Easier week coming up as I recover, and look toward St Annes Tri next Sunday. Knowing my luck on the Fylde Coast it will be gale force winds, but I'm not too concerned and just going out to enjoy it.
mrchewy - on 15 May 2012
Thanks once again Daniel.

STG - Complete 69mile Ultra June 23.

MTG - Focus on climbing again. Get leading 6a.

LTG - Get down to 12st, another adventure race, learn to climb on little holds.

Well the achilles was a bit arsey with me last week, after doing most of the welsh3s, so did core work and kept icing my troubles.

Friday - drove to Wales and once out of the motor fair shot up the hill to to the club hut... achilles pain again. Worried.
Saturday - Welsh 3000s attempt with Tim. Ended at the col below Tryfan as Tim has done the tendon in his big toe it seems. I keep breaking people. Had been going fine till then, a nice mix of running/quick walking and the new rucksack for the Ultra was brilliant. Achilles was worked around at times.
Sunday - Actually felt fine, did some walking and some sprint work once home.

Strange, twice in two weeks I've not finished the W3s due to partners getting injured but I'm proper buzzing. Feeling pretty good and would have finished both times had I left them. Just glad I've done them before or else I'd be choked. Same again this weekend... no injuries please.
hokkyokusei - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Hokkyokusei – Decent mileage. If you sleep that much it often means you needed the rest!

If anything I've had a more exhausting week this week, just too much to do at work.

m: trail running 7.66 km
t: cycling 5.44 km, 5.61 km
w: cycling 5.54 km, 5.52 km
t: cycling 5.60 km, 3.00 km
f: cycling 2.68 km, 3.99 km
s: cycling 5.53 km (new pb)
hiking (Ingleborough from Clapham) 18.65 km
s: running 4.56 km

Got the new pb for my commute home from work due to leaving at 2am - not much traffic!

biscuit - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I'm on the hunt for some new shoes and have found the scarpa mago on sale for 65 euros in my size. They fit nicely but i've never had a down turned shoe before.

Anyone had a pair and how suitable are they for vertical climbing ? The info from Scarpa says they are but they always say that don't they.

Most of my climbing is what i call wall climbing, vertical to slightly overhanging, it's not often i'm on a super steep route.

My 5.10 velcros have definitely lost their stiffness and i want something to make the most out of the smaller footholds i'm coming across now.
Keendan - on 15 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

I don't have them but I can only recommend my Scarpa Vapour Laces. Still very stiff, excellent edge after 9 months of abuse.

Scarpa doesn't seem to be as sticky as other brands, but the build quality is brilliant.
Eagle River - on 15 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Dave Macleod did a piece on why he used down-turned shoes on Indian Face. Nick (quiddity) linked to it for someone else a while ago. basically they're as good on edges on vertical walls/slabs as on steepness.

I have the Scarpa Instincts and really get on well with them. If the Magos fit you well I think you'll be pleasantly surprised on the vertical routes. They may be a bit painful/crampy for long duration onsights but probably ace for the redpoint.
leon on 15 May 2012
In reply to AJM:
What do you consider the campusing gives you that you don't get from the fingerboard? I (OK my dad) built a campus board in my climbing room over a year ago but I'm too scared to use it...
Eagle River - on 15 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Found it!

> The other problem is that turned down shoes require an actual technique of their own, distinct from traditional flatter soles. Watch some youtubes of leading and bouldering world cup comps. Watch in particular the climbers moving up vertical ground. Watch carefully how they place their feet. See how as they pad their toes downwards onto the foothold, they continue to drop their whole foot down by an inch or so after the toe has made contact. As they do this, watch the downturn of the boot bend back to a normal position. Once in the normal anatomical position, the foot can produce both power and control, but the elastic energy of the downturned rockshoe being stretched has added to the support. A flatter shoe has to provide that support by being stiffer, and that stiffness can come at the expense of sensitivity.
> A case in point - Recently I climbed the famous death defying slab route Indian Face. My ascent was just before the Vapour Velcros came out, and I wore a pair of Scarpa Stix. Some climbers asked me why I would wear an apparently turned down boot on a smeary slab climb? The implication is that turned down boots wouldn’t smear well because they don’t bend back enough to make full contact with the smear. But they do! You just have to let them. This is a limitation of climbing technique, not the versatility of the boot.
Si dH - on 15 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)

> My 5.10 velcros have definitely lost their stiffness and i want something to make the most out of the smaller footholds i'm coming across now.

I havent tried the scarpas but if you generally get on with 5.10 and want something a bit stiffer for vertical or slightly overhanging lime sport, I would recommend the anasazis whites / blancos.
Sankey - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Had a great time in Turkey, felt very tentative at the start of the trip after not being on the rope this year, but by the end of the trip had returned to my usual Sport baseline, onsighting a fair few 6a+, and a couple of 6b red-points second go.

Was instructive to climb with a much better friend who has recently taken to red-pointing more. Rubbed off a little, as I didn't walk away from too many routes without getting the clean lead, even it it did result in having to have second goes on some very easy routes! Picked up a few tactics for red-pointing too, but stopped short of really commiting to trying a proper project, which I am guessing would be around 6c for me at the moment.

Generally the climbing was great. Found the grades to be at least on the money, and often stiff around the grades I was operating, to enjoy a trip would suggest 6a+ is the entry level, there were very few 6a's around strangely.

Best news was my knee was around 95 % fit, no more than the odd twinge and not limiting my range of motion.

Want to kick on and get on the rope a bit more often, if any Peak fit clubbers are keen for some sport...

STG: Miles in legs + easy trad ahead of attempt on Skye Ridge + Dolomites/Alps trip : Some more sport climbing
MTG: < 50 min 10 k
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5
Si dH - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Si dH:
By the way, just saw this on the other channel (from Sonny Trotter) - I like it,20088.0.html
AJM - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

I got the instinct slippers a while back - lovely and sensitive and felt good, but you really could feel your feet after a long pitch, definitely having to work harder to compensate for the thinner rubber. I think I'll probably keep 2 pairs of shoes on the go, with my faithful Katana laces the weapons of choice when I expect to be standing on them for a while
AJM - on 15 May 2012
In reply to leon:

The dynamic power stuff - fingerboard is good for static hangs but my setup doesn't let me do dynamic moves between holds, so I find the dynamic pull-through strength as well as the contact strength something I can't easily work on my fingerboard rig.
Eagle River - on 15 May 2012
In reply to AJM:

I've got the lace ups so probably more support for the mid-foot than the slippers as my feet don't get tired but toes hurt after a while (but nowhere near as much as they hurt in dragons!).

biscuit - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Eagle River, Dan and AJM:

Cheers guys. I may give them a go. Back in malaga on Sat so hope they still there.

I was considering them as a redpoint 'weapon'. My anasazi velcros have been re-soled and not as good as they used to be. I know i could get another pair but i always like to try something different and these are 30 euro + cheaper than the competition.

It's hard to find the range of shoes over here. Boreal seem to be very popular in the shops but i don't see many wearing them. Sportiva Miura are hugely popular but strangely decathlon stock scarpa and edelrid.

Anyone tried the Edelrid Hurricane BTW ? Tried one on but it wasn't the aggressive shoe i was looking for. Felt very good on though and build quality looked excellent. I didn't even know they made shoes ? They had Typhoons in small sizes which were down turned and looked ace but too small or me.
Eagle River - on 16 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

> I can't imagine doing the route in something with a flat toe now (though no doubt plenty of people do).

It always amuses me how much thought and consideration I put into shoe choice and how much it can affect my performance on 7b routes when Ron Fawcett put up stuff like Zoolook in boots I'd not feel confident doing mutli-pitch VDiff in.
Quiddity - on 16 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Just catching up with your shoe quandry, I have no experience of Magos but regarding downturned shoes in general - what Eagle River said.

I also used to use Anasazi Velcros for everything, but increasingly found that I was frustrated that they were a bit on the soft side, especially when broken in, when it came to needing to stand up/pull on sharp little edges/dinks. I am sure it is my weak toes rather than the fault of the shoe but I switched to whites as I got more power/precision on little footholds.

I now use whites for something like 50% of my outdoor sport, especially onsighting - and totally rate them if you want to stick with a flat toe. They are super stiff out of the box and take a bit of breaking in, but when broken in they smear well and you can stand on nearly anything in them. When they are on the way out, they massively soften up (a bit like velcros) and become pretty good on smeary stuff but the precision and especially the 'grab' in the toe (eg. the ability to pull on small edges out to one side, like in a high rock up) goes as the rubber rounds off.

Downturned shoes take a bit of time to adapt your technique as it requires a slightly different style of climbing. I climbed like a numpty in them for a month or two before I got the hang of it though. While most people seem to think that very downturned shoes would only ever be good on radically overhanging rock, since I got used to them and had a bit of a technical wall/slab epiphany, Dragons have been pretty much my go-to shoe for anything at my technical limit irrespective of angle. My current project for instance is only just on the overhanging side of vertical, but has some of the worst edges/smears I have ever tried to use as footholds - ie if you glued a credit card to the crux of the route it would be an ok foothold - to get anything out of them I need something with a stiff sole and downturned toe - I can't imagine doing the route in something with a flat toe now (though no doubt plenty of people do).
Quiddity - on 16 May 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

> It always amuses me how much thought and consideration I put into shoe choice and how much it can affect my performance on 7b routes when Ron Fawcett put up stuff like Zoolook in boots I'd not feel confident doing mutli-pitch VDiff in.

Totally. I think we are so spoiled with massive improvements in shoe technology and take technical rubber so for granted that going backwards feels terrifying. I can't remember what utterly shit shoes Johnny apparently did Indian Face in (the other channel had a thread about it, ages ago) but, sweet jesus...

I justify it by telling myself though that as it's a sport where success/failure hinges on millimeters of contact of rubber/rock, you can't focus too minutely on that point of contact. The reality is I just like obsessing over shoes.
biscuit - on 16 May 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

Cheers Nick.I hope to get them on Saturday and we'll see what happens.
Kevster - on 16 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Hi biscuit,

I have used the predecesor/slip ons to the magos - the Styx. I have to say, they were possibly the best shoe I have worn. Comfortable, precise and I have climbed some really hard (for me) stuff in them without feeling they let me down. I bought them for 35 quid new. They wore well and don't smell too much. I wish I could still get them. Having said that, I have recently used the sportiva solutions and I think they might with time beat the Styx once I get used to the differences in shape and performance.

Good luck with the shoe thing, Kev.
Kevster - on 16 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

thanks Dan,
A brief week for me.

Sunday: cuttings. Did a number of routes, felt good on them and ticked the 7a+ live by the sword on the first attempt (tried last time I was there but failed for whatever reason). Conditions were spot on mind.

The main show for me was a couple of efforts at Hall of mirrors. I have had a quick top rope of this before, thanks to Nick, and thought the crux was a bit far to me. This time I managed to work a sequence which felt OK and was achievable with the last efforts making me think the RP is on in the near future. Happy days.

Not wanting to double post this comming week's FC, I have had another few goes (Tues) on lead and it does feel like it's not too far off at all.

Happy days!


This week: Outside twice. Nothing serious inside planned due to work.

Banned User 77 - on 16 May 2012
In reply to Kevster:

m: 12.5 mile road run
t: 10.5 mile road run
w: am: 5 mile trail run. pm: In london for Dads CBE.. 5.3 miles on treadmill.. drinking cocktails til early hours..
t: am: 3 miles treadmill > palace > parliament for dinner with one of the ex MP's.. loads of gossip.. good laugh.. drinking again later that night..
f: 14 miles trails and road run
s: 4 miles before race. 7 mile race. 2 miles after race. Cressbrook crawl fell race. 1st. family party to celebrate CBE.. more silly drinking..
s: 4 miles hung over...
m: 16 miles to make up for sunday..
t: 15 miles to make up for sunday..
Quiddity - on 17 May 2012
In reply to Kevster:

> Hall of mirrors. [...] making me think the RP is on in the near future.

You were looking strong on it on Sunday and Tuesday, looked like some good links. Reckon it'll go pretty soon.
biscuit - on 18 May 2012
mrchewy - on 18 May 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Congratulations to your Dad chap!
Kevster - on 18 May 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Andy and Nick.

Might get another blast on it on saturday, weather being the factor.
I'll be looking into the shoes too!

Have a good weekend FC
Stone_donkey - on 18 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Crap week for me - busy at work late most nights so no wall sessions plus planned grit trip today cancelled as weather judged to be too iffy for 7hrs of driving - 4th time this trip has been cancelled so far this year and have only managed one day out all year and that was bolts so doesn't really count ;). Major sulk coming on...
Richard Popp - on 19 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks for doing this, he is me slipping in under the wire, just. It has been a funny few weeks, I have been plugging away at low level general fitness acrivity but struggling to get out on the rock-3 times in a month, it is just not enough. When I have been getting out I have been doing half a warm up and then jumping on something right at or just beyond my limit, this approach combined with lack of milage is not good. On the positive side I am much fitter than I was in March, swam a mile this week, can run five miles and hang new holds on the BM, just need to get on the rock!!
Been out three times-Brean, Shorn and Cheddar-some positive, can do all the moves on Chepito, almost retro-flashed 6C at Cheddar and did load of VS/HVS's at Shron with no drama.
Aims for the next week, climb on rock three times.

jgustafsson - on 19 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Daniel,

Bit of a late one for me this week, I guess I was too depressed to write about it. Not great from training point of view, even forgetting stupidly messing up my right foot.

Mon: --
Tue: Running: track session. 1x400(200 rest);1x1200(400 rest); 1x400(200 rest);1x1200(400 rest); 1x400(200 rest);1x1200(400 rest); 12.5k in total. Boy did I struggle. Foolishly ignored pain in right heel
Thu: Big dinner
Fri: --
Sat: Boulder
Sun: Boulder

So the ITB I felt last weekend went away without a trace, but I managed to really hurt my right ankle/heel. I felt it before the track session (so I guess I did the damage during the weekend's long run), but foolishly ignored it. Limping next day, unable to roll over from midfoot onto the front of the foot. This put me out from the planned race on Saturday, and I'm still not back to running as I'm writing this.

Short-term: Get back from foot injury. Find a climbing goal to take me out of the funk.
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (4/4); 7b+ (8/8).

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.