In reply to Ali:
Thanks Ali. Now back home after two weeks away so full report below. Post-Font I now need to set my goals for the rest of the year...discussed at the bottom.
STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [didn't get on any 7bs but managed 6 Ft 7a, 3 Ft 7a+]
MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March [managed 3 Ft 7as in first 3 days, then no more due mostly to wet weather]
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. [will start some trad as soon as it warms up enough...]
M: First day of first ever ski trip, in Andorra. Not much sleep as I only arrived at 2am. Did some practice with the wife to check we could still go in a straight line without falling over (had previously been to Tamworth a couple of times), then had the first of our lessons (we had 3 x 3 hour lessons booked). Today was all on the beginner slopes but still good fun. Shattered by the end of the day.
T: Went out on our own in the morning and did 3 blue runs, then another lesson in the afternoon covering several more blues.
W: As Tuesday, went out on my own (no wife this time, she was knackered) and did a couple more blue runs, one was pretty steep and hard for me (fell over a couple of times) then had another 3 hour lesson in the afternoon a bit like the day before. Instructor was really good. Unfortunately my left wrist started really hurting badly in the evening, it is weak in pressing on things and I think leaning on my ski poles had damaged it.
T: Had to have a day off as my wrist was still painful. Went to a spa in the afternoon so did some swimming!
F: Got up early to do some more skiing before travelling home. Managed 4 blues and one easy red (it was definitely easier than at least one of the blues I'd done.) Can parallel turn reasonably well at a reasonable pace but have low control - still fall over perhaps one in 10-20 turns for various reasons, usually to do with getting my inside ski caught in the snow or with my outside ski. Left at lunch time on coach to Barcelona airport, eventually got home to Derby about midnight.
S: Picked up at 430am for drive to Font! (so you'll gather I was short of sleep.) All day travelling then buying food etc.
S: First day in Font. Went to Maunoury first and did a brilliant Ft7a called Rababoum. I think it took me about 10 goes. Then went over to Dame Jouanne crag to try L'Angle Parfait, 7a+. Unfortunately it just felt really thin and a bit greasy, couldnt do it. Later on went over to l'Elephant and tried Le Coeur a couple of times (Ft 7a). Felt quite close but didnt have long enough to tick it.
M: Went to Buthiers. Tried Lady Big Claque (7a/+?) - felt doable but was a bit damp, The Ramp (7a) - nowhere near, felt really powerful and my elbow was hurting, and Attention Chef d'Ouevre (7a) - again was a bit greasy in the crux holds and I couldnt do it, although spent a long time trying! Then went to try Nemesis (Ft7a) and despite tiredness managed to do it fairly quickly.
T: Franchard Isatis. Tried l'Angle Ben's (7a+) but painful left elbow and general disbelief at how smooth the rock was meant I was nowhere near. Then went over to do the 7a version of Les Troubadours, which I enjoyed - took a lot of effort and working out but went in the end. Skin very thin and both elbows now hurting(!)
W: Essential rest day...
T: Rain!
We went to Rocher Fin when it dried up for a couple of hours in the evening and did a few warm-up red problems, then found a dry 7a called Guerre et Pais (sp) (War and Peace). I did the probable crux and got to the final mantel a couple of times but didnt quite manage it, and it was hurting both my left wrist - the mantel - and both elbows - it involved big steep/powerful moves - so I gave up.
F: Wet all day, nothing.
S: Travelling back all day
S: Resting and relaxing today. Short walk in to town, trying to eat sensibly as the last week has been a complete glutton-fest, stacks of bread, cheese and beer.
Overall I've had a great 2 weeks off work and enjoyed both skiing and Font. However to my surprise I think I actually preferred the skiing. Font was fun, good to go away with friends, and the climbing was good for the first 3 days, but then I got fed up with the weather and it certainly wasn't as good a week overall as previous trips eg Kaly. On the plus side, I was pleased with 3 Ft 7as in 3 days - I feel like I've achieved my true minimum target for this season, which was to feel confident ticking a new Ft 7a in a single session - and they were all really good, especially Rababoum.
I ate too much both weeks, especially when doing little exercise for the second half of this week in Font, and have put on about 5 or 6 pounds. Doh! Need to try and diet a bit now.
New goals now need to be set for the rest of the year - as said above I'd like to target 10 E3s and an E4 for 2013. I definitely don't want to name specific routes as this hasn't worked in the past, due to not ending up going to the right places at the right time. I'm struggling with how to break the goal down further so welcome suggestions, but this is the best I can think of for now (dependent on the temperature increasing soon!):
STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.
Si