/ UKC fit club week 315

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biscuit - on 31 Mar 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (314) thread:

Ali – HMMM Cake ! Great week though. Rewards are needed for your hard work. Don't punish yourself.
Daniel Heath – In Spain ?
deacondeacon – I knew i'd seen another skateboarder on here recently. It's partly what made me go out and get one again. My 35 euro board is way better than anything I had 20(+) yrs ago. So responsive. In fact too responsive for learning again. I had to tighten the wheels and trucks up. Got a 360 this week and can crack out stationery ollies again. This week I want to try a moving ollie . I feel like a teenager again. Until the next day when everything hurts.Hadn't thought of the carrying on until you complete the 50 and then work on taking the time down. Good one.
grubes – Forget the climbing....Sasha ! Great holiday mate. Keep the psyche and keep moving forward.
Si dH – Hope you're fully recovered. Being ill and cranking out 100 pull ups is v impressive.
NMN – How was the outdoor coaching session ? Did you get much out of it and have you got any goals from it ?
AJM – Everyone else who puts as much effort into training as you do seems to improve. I am sure ( if ) when the weather improves you will crush.
Nomics4sale – Brilliant result, but Grubes trumps you with his Sasha sighting.
Eagle River – Good to hear you state it 'out loud'. I am sure you'll get it this year and nice one on not going for the obvious route. Toadal sounds much more doable for you.
leon – Ill ? You did something every day I think. Obviously not man flu. Good effort with a busy week and being under the weather.
DoctorU – not looked at your fatloss calculator but bear in mind that as your bodyweight decreases that affects the %. 50% of 100kg is 50kg of lean mass. 50% of 80kg is 40kg of lean mass. Hope kaly goes well.
JimmyKay – Weak and ill. Pathetic….
mattrm – Did you make 12st and is the loft done ?
Kevster – 32 in 5 great start. Get to it ! 7c or 8a ? Make a decision and go for it !
IainRUK – Let us know how it went. You get to some amazing places to run, and also some crap ones I remember, like in circles round airports.
maria85 – No commitments, shower at work, willing boyfriend, never work late ? You should be doing more :-p
Exile – Good dedication there. No excuses accepted and you just got on with it. Quaity rest and diet – v important.
pork pie girl – Any news ? I hope it's good and you're cycling and climbing away in sunny France.
Luke Owens – Looks to me like you need some new goals :0)
kylieo – We all have good weeks and bad weeks. A lot of the point of this thread is to get you through the down times as well as congratulating you on the good times.
biscuit –
Joughton – Have a great time in France. I am expecting a great report as usual.
mrchewy – You'll never climb a 7a if you don't get on a 7a goes the old adage. Great to see your amazing attitude at the moment. As you say getting to the top won't remain a problem for long.
Haych – How can you do all that and only lose a pound ? In fact more to the point how can you do all that ? Inspiring.
Sankey – how was the trip ? 7A in the bag ? Working your weak style will never be a bad thing. It just feels like it.
Twigger – Good 10k time. You can't rate a training session on the quality of totty, can you ?
Ally Smith – I missed that you're off to Spain. Hope the weather was good for you. Ski trip sounded good. You can ski in Granada and climb in the sun down here :0) Hope the girlfriend trauma is resolved one way or the other. At least you will know where you stand.

It's been a while but it's good to do it once in a while and really catch up on where everyone is. Lots of people doing lots of good stuff.

I'll post my average week later.
JBO on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers Biscuit! Posting from France, there's WIFI at the campsite.

It's not going too well at the moment, we're currently at Orgon (leaving now though thank god!) and the grades here are pretty tough - these people obviously haven't heard of 'holiday grades'...

I didn't climb all week this week, I've been busy at college so thought I might as well rest myself, so I'll only report my saturday and sunday...

Sat - arrived at Orgon at about two o'clock, set the tents up to dry out from the night before, then walked up to the crag. Warmed up on the hardest 6b in the world, then got rained off the 6b next door. To hide from the showers I climbed in a big cave but couldn't do the easiest route - a solid 7b - so we bailed to do another ridiculously hard, polished and slabby 6b. Only comfort is that Dad's finding stuff hard too so it's not just that I've forgotten how to use my feet spending all my time at the wall.

Sun - woke up to a much sunnier day, back up to the orgon crags but this time went to the Canal sector. Warmed up on the hardest 6a+ in the world (anyone seeing a pattern here?) then decided to get straight on a 7a+. It was massively pumpy and steep, but had lots of big positive holds. To be honest it felt a bit like a climbing wall but I wasn't complaining when I topped it. Fell off another 7b, again crazily hard, and bailed to some slabbier sectors, where I fell off a 7a for the first time in ages, a bit gutted but I'm just looking at where we're going next in hope that things will be easier!

So we're going to head to Buoux, then on to Orpierre, and spending a few days at Chateauverte which looks brilliant, well suited to me, and hopefully softer grades!

Cheers, Jake
AJM - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Was the 7a+ or 7b Sherman Contest? Pumpy little number that one! Yeah the grey limestone grades at Orgon are tough.

If you go to Buoux you must do La Jonction (6b+, will put a smile on your face) and Rose de Sables (7a, brilliant). All the stuff I logged from there last year I enjoyed.
JBO on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Yes that's the one, I thought it was great! Wasn't really sure where the line went at the top though... yeah planning to Rose, and No Man's Land, when we're at Buoux. Oh and I looked at that Power route, it looks brilliant!
Banned User 77 - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

m: 12 k with 10k at 4 min k's.
t: 12 km, 10 k with 3 x 2 k reps at 18 kph
w: 4 mile road run at 7 min mile pace
t: 4.5 mile slow road run
f: 5.5 miles pentland hills fell run
s: 3.1 miles slow
s: 62.1 miles.. anglo celtic plate 100k. 7:19:09. 4th, 3rd in Britain, so bronze UKA medal, but GB unbeknown to me set their qualifying standard as 7:18.. so looks like there will be now south africa trip to the world champs..
AJM - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

I seem to remember you have the jugs under the roof at the top and I then basically went straight up on some small incuts and topped out in a straight line above that with a few balancey moves to get up onto the final ledge.

No Mans Land I'd want to do next time I go.

Oh, and the 7c next to the Camembert Fergusson 7a I did is apparently pretty good, just as long as you can rig the ropes to avoid crippling drag!
grubes - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: thanks biscuit rest week for me normal service will return next week.

M: root bouldering and core 2.5 hours. Mainly went to get the 10 days on tick.
T-s: rest
sun: stanage. Bouldering and snowballing. Warmed up finally putiing crescent arête to bed the tried big air hitting the jug and not latching many times. Latched the pocket kicked the wall uncle hurt fell back wards did not match pocket again after that.
Went up to try the top of white wand but platform not great. So left it.
Tried ntbta still no tick
Tried adults only still no tick.
Moved on to apparent north ticked several micro routes a 6A second go and a 5+ traverse with the feet under the snow.
Now home
Jamming Dodger on 31 Mar 2013
(AKA Haych):
I didn't really think last week was that great. The cycling sort of goes by default to get to work and Sunday was just one busy day. Ideally a few club rides would be included for the social and mileage bagging (endurance) benefits. Im happy with a pound a week weight loss. My eating is still pretty good and I can be confident its fat loss rather than just plain old dehydration. Need some new clothes though. :/
Anyway, this week had a bit of a shaky start. My head is totally messed up at the moment and the GP has warned that although exercise is good, too much can be a wind up rather than a wind down. She suggested yoga but I don't really fancy that myself. Any suggestions?
Monday and Tuesday were a bit of a write off. Bad days.
Rode to work Wednesday and Thursday (56 miles) with core work both days.
Skipping and core work Friday then pub, although I had very little to drink. Still, good to get out.
Saturday: Mainly sleep!
Sunday: Thai boxing class, core and three mile run (to boxing and back).
5lb to go to my target weight, just in time for the nice weather.
Really trying to look after myself in both body and mind at the moment so not putting myself under undue pressure or planning my week too rigorously or I end up feeling like a failure when I don't stick to the plan. I know thats quite negative, but im learning to acknowledge my negative thoughts and deal with them, rather than bury my head in the sand.
I'm sure a couple of months of dealing with stuff and being back in the swing of the club rides will see me back to my old self.
The core stuff and weight loss is really starting to show its benefits already. First glimmer of abs definition is coming through. Nice
The fingerboard I ordered arrived yesterday (Thanks Paul!) so i'll get my dad to put that up for me when he gets back off holiday. I dont trust myself with a drill!
Have a good week everybody.
grubes - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: meant to be ankle not uncle stupid auto correct
AJM - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

and if you want some stamina onsights do a day at venasque.
Eagle River - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit.

STG: 7c by April 2013 (TICK)
MTG: 8a buy end of 2013 (Toadal Recall / Raindogs possibly)

Tues: indoor bouldering. Felt stronger than the session I had in the previous week, ticked a very generously graded v7.

Friday: Malham. Tremelo was dry so I got straight on redpoint. first 2 attempts I fell at the crux. refined a foothold sequence and third go fell again from the crux. Had a big rest and sat in the sun for a while then went for an all or nothing final attempt of the day and ticked it! Really happy about that. Heard from moose that someone has since broken one of the key holds by the first overlap, this hold is crucial for your feet and makes a semi-rest for your hands so really really relieved I got it now.

Back to Malham tomorrow, might try and tick off space race as I never finished that one off and its dry at the moment.

leon on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 hard e2.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 11
Focus: PE(1/2)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3).
Tue: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Wed: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Thu: Bouldering @ Churnet Valley (max V4).
Fri: Push-ups(121), Pull-ups(57), Back(weights).
Sat: Nothing.
Sun: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.

Thanks Biscuit.

This week I decided that I was happy with training volume but effort on intensity has to improve, I'm stopping when it hurts rather than when my body collapses. Wednesday I upped the 4x4 grades to the same as my PB last year (failing but looking @ last years results I should be good by the end of April). Sunday I upped the ARC circuit to a circuit that I tried last year but found it PE within 7 mins, today managed 30 mins with only around 20 seconds rest due to falling off so well happy with that.

Had a good bouldering session on Thursday (first time outside in a long time) but was a little disappointed in my power & PE. I'm assuming at the moment its down to a lack of technical efficiency.

Plan for next week:
Mon: Weights & core.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3).
Wed: Push-ups(), Pull-ups(), Back(weights). Core.
Thu: Rest. optional -Arc.
Fri: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Sat: Core. optional -Push-ups(), Pull-ups(), Back(weights).
Sun: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters
Nik Jennings - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Nice one
biscuit - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:
5+ traverse with the feet under the snow.

biscuit - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

The exocet redpoint missile strikes again !

I said it when you were over here but you're one of the smoothest redpoint climbers i've seen. Totally committed and very quick to work and remember sequences. Great work.

I'm just glad you don't concentrate on on-sights as well ;0)
mattrm - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks JimmyKay. Hope you feel better soon.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 12st TICK! (11st 10lbs next)
Goals for next week
1 swim (Y), 1 run (N), 1 gym cardio(Y), 2 core(Y), 3 stretches (Y)
Light breakfast, Soup for lunch, sensible evening meals - yup (till Fri eve!)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 11st 12lbs (4lbs loss YYFY!!!!)

M - 30mins gym cardio
T - Core, swim & stretch
W - 1h30m indoor climbing
T - Rest
F - Torpantau Falls, III, alt leads, first grade III lead!
S - Core & stretches
S - Stretches + loads of moving boxes an gardening

It's been a great week all in. Reasonable amounts of exercise at the start of the week. Okish climbing session on Weds, shoulder still feeling a bit iffy. But it was nice, talked to a few mates, did some easy routes.

Missed out the weekly run as I was planning on going ice climbing on Friday. Which I did. It was suitably awesome. First scottish III lead. The route was in excellent nick, fat and took screws. Not too hard, but hard enough. I took the first easy pitch. Jules did the bulk of the main pitch, but made a belay and left me the last few meters of steep ice. The whole thing really flowed. Went very well, great conditions, lovely weather with a good mate. The day got better as when I got home the evening weigh in had me at 11st 12lbs. Then spent the evening with with the missus and a mate drinking beer and eating ribs. Dead happy. Excellent day.

Been doing DIY the rest of the weekend. Hopefully should be at 11st 7lbs by the ultra.
grubes - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: I smeared on a blank face to avoid the dab :P
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Nice one with the grade III lead! Topping it off with beers and food, even better
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit. What is it with climber blokes and sasha? She's just your average fit, blonde, pretty, 20 year old, 9a climbing girl....

STG (Summer 2013): trad mileage, more E1s and look at E2, RP a 7b at Kilnsey
MTG (Autumn 2013 in Spain): Not sure, onsight 7a?
LTG: Not sure

Mon: nowt
Tues: nowt
Wed: nowt
Thurs: Tremadog, alt lead onsight Mesach (HVS).
Fri: Tremadog, alt lead onsight The Fang (HVS).
Sat: Tremadog, alt lead onsight Merlin Direct (HVS) then alt lead onsight Leg Slip (E1).
Sun: Trowbarrow, lead onsight jean jeanie (VS), Sour Milk Groove (HVS) and Clotted Cream (E1). Seconded A Sense of Doubt (E3) and Izzy The Push (E2).

Bit of a switch to trad this week for me. It's been a great few days of climbing, all really good fun but also a real wake up call. Me and my partner both got our arses kicked on The Fang at Tremadog, so much so that it took us 3.5 hours to do it. I nearly died of boredom on the belay ledge! I got the crux pitches of all the other routes there though which was a bonus for me.

Trowbarrow was equally arse kicking. Dogged my way up the E3 on top rope and gibbered up the E1. Upshot being that I need to do more trad.
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Woop woop! 8a next!
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

Hmm... Not sure what to suggest? Are you finding it hard to relax and unwind? Yoga is good for that. It's difficult to find time to fit everything in but I guess sometimes you have to accept that there aren't enough hours in the day to do everything and sometimes you have to do nothing.
kylieo on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Joughton:

It's kind of nice to hear that you found the grades at Orgon rather hard, we were there last summer and achieved very little, I thought they were outrageous! We only stayed a couple of days and then headed to Orpierre, which I think you'll like, it was mostly a little too overhanging for me so you'll love it!

Thanks for the stats Biscuit, I know to expect bad weeks as well as good weeks, I'm just not good at coping with them. This week was rather better on average.

STG (by summer): don’t get injured - so far so good
redpoint 7a indoors - job done!
something in the V4-V6 circuit
lose ½ stone - very, very slowly with many setbacks

Monday - rubbish bouldering session, couldn't do stuff that was easy before.
Tuesday - conditioning, 24 pullups in 5 mins, fingerboard - think i'm finally getting a good session worked out, I almost enjoy doing it now.
Wednesday - 25 routes, mix of lead and top rope, grades 5-7a, I think I fell of everything 6b+ and above but didn't really care. Tried a new 7a on TR that seemed very doable.
Thursday - short conditioning session, really just phsyio exercises.
Friday - redpointing. Warmed up, got on the 6c and dispatched it, just. Nearly fell from the same place as last time again but managed to hang on. Tried the 7a from Wednesday on lead, got it fine with some rests. Went back for a second go to hammer the moves into my head, got to the penultimate move and found the way I planned it was just too powerful for me without a rest so worked out another sequence, did the top half of the route about 6 or 7 times to make sure I could do it tired! Figured I might as well have another go after a rest as I was too tired to get on the 7a+ and achieve anything and boom!! My first 7a lead indoors! A soft one for sure but you've got to start somewhere.
Saturday - nothing.
Sunday - general routes session, a little bit rubbish. Got one 6b+, came off 2 more and completely failed and gave up on 2 6cs. Oh well.

So I achieved a pre-holiday goal! I think I've already replaced it with the next one though, I'd like to get the 7a+ I've been trying though I know it may not go. The 7a was not too overhanging and mostly crimpy, the 7a+ is about as overhanging as routes get at the wall so completely not my style, very good for me though!

Luke Owens - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers Biscuit! New goals...

STG - F7b+ and Font 7A+ (Next few months)
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)

Monday - Core and Stretching

Tuesday - Oswestry Indoor Bouldering - Climbed various easy problems helping out my girlfriend. Did 9 V2/3's and sent one of the hard comp problems possibly V5-ish.

Wednesday - Rest/Man-Flu(!)

Thursday - Rest/Man-Flu(!)

Friday - Pantymwyn for an hour - Tried Embers (6C+) about 5 times with wet-ish holds, couldn't dry crux sloper enough to stick the last move.

Saturday - Fingerboard - Feet on moving hangs. 30 moves then 2 minutes rest, Did this 10 times. 300 moves in total. Did some core too. Boxed by the end... Also went for a 2 hour walk with the family.

Sunday - Nesscliffe, finaly sent Right-Hand Route SS (6B+). It's never 6B+ in a million years, move like 6C. Either way great problem. Told myself I'd have to send this first before trying Northumberland Wonderland (7A+).

NW is a quality problem but damn steep! Spent the rest of the session working the first move off the pinch to a good flatty crimp, it's very reachy and I'm not that tall. Made some good progress, should have some good muscle memory for next time. This is definitely going to be my 7A+ proj - Psyched!

Good week all in all!
NMN - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit.
All coaching has been indoor so far to look at / sort out technique, with me trying to practice technique and then more recently train endurance.
I am finding the coaching great.

Managed to climb three times this week, which is good, but climbing again is definitely causing problems in the work, family, running, climbing balance. I'm a bit disappointed with the weeks running. No running Friday was definitely due to the bouldering. I could of got the running week ok with about 6 miles on Sunday but family easter stuff took over.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.

M: - indoor routes.
T: - 7.66m fell run, 1,717ft.
W: am – indoor routes.
W: pm – 5.14m trail run, 204ft.
T: – 5.05m road run, 63ft.
F: - indoor bouldering.
S - 6.16m road run, 155ft.
S - nothing.
Sankey - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers, trip to spain is next week. First trip to Malham for the year this weekend. Bit of an eye opener, need a bit more finger strength for the cruxes of the three routes I tried. Still is early in the year and it was bloody cold (falling icicles were a hazzard)! Will stick with it on my return from Spain, and maybe need to add some more fingery bouldering into my weekly routine, had been focusing more on steeper, large hold stamina stuff recently.

M: Static Bike 8.5 km
W: Matrix: New font 6b
S: Malham: TR goes on Puddlejumper
S: Malham: TR goes on Consenting + Appetite (the latter being really good, even though the crux involved some crimps I was struggling with is the kind of thing I could see myself getting stuck into)

STG: At least 6c RP in Siurana

MTG: Sport 7a project

LTG: ?
Jamming Dodger on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Yikes, just entered my first triathlon... Boundary Breeze Sprint in July. Best pull my socks up. Dont want to let my club down!
Good to have goals...
Ian Bell - on 01 Apr 2013
Hi all

Just back from Tenerife for me so London seems even colder than usual! Beautiful weather, good climbing and cheap there - overall well recommended. We climbed at Arico (sandstoney), El Rio (Basalt), the volcano (crazy pumice rock) and Guaria (sandstoney but slightly different). the quality of routes / rock was generally excellent.

Shoulder still playing up so no big numbers, did a couple of 6cs on TR clean and both fairly easily. Tried one monster 35m 7a. Big holds but overhanging all the way, wasn't fit enough to OS and too knackered / hot to try it afterwards.

Planning to take it easy for a couple of weeks now in the hopes of sorting the shoulder.
mattrm - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to mattrm)
> Nice one with the grade III lead! Topping it off with beers and food, even better

Thanks chap. However to be honest, I'm happier with the weight loss. I don't think I've been this thin since my early teens. I was probably 13stish from about 15/16. Then up to nearly 16st, so to be under 12st is a really big thing for me. Still can't quite believe it tbh. Scared to go back on the scales incase I've put it back on!

JayK - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Dan H certainly is in Spain. I will be flying out to meet him on Wednesday. We both agreed that Spain was a better idea than sticking around in the UK this Easter.
JayK - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

M- Day off, felt terrible.
T- Went in to work. Then went climbing, then had a curry (well had about 3 fork fulls) before almost throwing it all up again. Too much to soon.
W- Day off, felt terrible again.
T- Work
F- Down to Portland, took me a while to work out but managed a v6 and a v7 on the boulderfield.
S- Got back on Hall of Mirrors after a 2 year absence. Smashed the crux then fell off the top.... again. Took the draws out (bottom wall was completely soaked and I was freezing - good excuses?) Went down to the boulderfield and did 2 v6's - O/S one of them.
S- Dossed about in the sunshine. Put the draws in on a 7a (absolutely freezing) then the wall came in to the sun and it all warmed up. Flashed a 7a+ on TR and then lead the 7a clean. Then went for a sleep.
Then began the power 2 hours. Set with a bouldering mat on my back I arrived at the boulderfield with 2hours of daylight remaining. I walked the length of the field twice and ended up with 3 x v6; 4 x v7; and a v8. Wicked.
JayK - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

I like NW. You'll have Rigpa and Kyloe In to do after sending that! Really good bouldering wall that.
maria85 - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Ok, ok, I should be doing more. Point taken ;-)

Point doubly taken as this week wasn't particularly good. Although me forgetting the bank hol meant I got a 'real' play day in, though sacrificed other stuff for it.

Last week's goals:
2 x fingerboard -one done
1 x fingerboard stamina sesh -fail
2 x core -tick
1 x roped wall with falls; 1 x bouldering wall with circuits -fail - went bouldering but no circuits
3 x bike commute; 3 x runs... do not let weather get to me. -fail - 1xbike, 2xruns, let the cold put me off riding.

M: Nothing.
T: Bingley wall. My circuit has been taken down Did several new problems up to about V3/4.
W: Core session, fingerboard session.
T: Bike commute, 4km run.
F: Skied a traverse of the Helvellyn range from Dunmail Raise, dropping down Brund Ghyll. 6 hours car-to-road. Lovely day and some decent turns, first time I've ever skied out-of-resort by myself too which was great! (Not the kind of thing you can do safely in Canada...). Topped the day off by getting a hitch back to my car with none other than Dave Birkett. I was a wee bit star-struck.
S: Parkrun (26:56, not a good performance), core session. Followed by wedding, ate and drank too much.
S: Walked around York with a hangover for a while if that counts?! Took the bouldering mat to Shipley Glen, succeeding in climbing all of three problems, 3a/3a/4c. I am possibly the worst choice of climber ever to live within spitting distance of the glen.

This week's goals:
2 x fingerboard
1 x fingerboard stamina sesh
1 x roped climbing wall - take some falls.
3 x bike commute, 3 x runs, plan the weekend in advance to make the most of it (no car this weekend).
Put entries in for races x4
Plan April's ski tour
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to maria85: We'll have to start a fit club star spotting league table. Is Birkett better than Sasha ???
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Not a bad week Lots of work which impinged a bit. No training of any consequence but lots of touching rock which can't be a bad thing.

M - Work. Routes up t 6a+. 5 circuits on theall weather wall after
T - Ditto
W - Routes up to 6b, getting a but tired so only did 3 circuits.
T - Work. Routes up to 6b+
F - Skateboarding and sleeping
S - Work - routes up to 6b+
S - Due to go to Chorro bt rain stopped play. El Torcalito instead. First time for a while. Spanked as usual. Doing problems 15-20 moves long. Skateboarding

SO no 'real' climbing but i must have climbed 20+ routes this week + the circuits and bouldering.

This week looks similar.May end up working 6 days.I was going to go bouldering after work but it's bloody raining AGAIN ! May try the 100 pull up challenge if it doesn't clear up.After work climbing may be on the cards again hopefully now the nights are lighter.

Making progress on the skateboard. 360's and ollies are do able so at least i don't look quite so stupid. Still not broken anything but a spill flat onto my arse caused my piriformis to flare up for a couple of days.

This week:

Fit in what i can after work - bouldering if possible if not all weather wall. 3 sessions to aim at.

Climb at the weekend. WOrking all the way through until Sat so only got Sun to aim at. Friend of mine wants to do a 5 pitch trad route. 3 middle pitches go at 6c, 7a and 6c+ sport grade no idea what they will turn out to be like. SHould be fun - i hope.
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Trowbarrw is brilliant !

Aladinsane was my intro to limestone trad,i gibbered up it too !

If you go back get on cracked actor. Safe as houses and brilliant climbing.
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Have a great trip.

Remember - NO CURRIES !
AJM - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> Fri: Tremadog, alt lead onsight The Fang (HVS).
> Sat: Tremadog, alt lead onsight Merlin Direct (HVS) then alt lead onsight Leg Slip (E1).

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you might have had a chat about the former route whilst belaying your leader on p1 of the latter route, with a couple of guys who had just done First Slip?
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cracked actor was recommended by another mate, I had a look but got intimidated after gibbering up everything else, including Jean Jeanie. I've told myself I'll have a go next visit. Good to know it's well protected, I was a bit concerned after not having the right gear for Jean Jeanie.

Your trad route sounds exciting. 7a trad, that's about E5 innit? Spicy! And what's with the rain in Spain??
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to AJM:

Yep! Was that you? Guessing so from your logbook... You've had a busy weekend! Were you the one who'd done Leg Slip before? That bridging groove was well reachy! Good though...
deacondeacon - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for looking after the club this week Biscuit

STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)




Wed-Playing in the snow and buiding up the landing on Shine On (a route at Stanage).

Thu-Trad at New Mills, one E1 and a couple of HVS's.

Fri-Bouldering at the works. Good session

Sat-Nothing, went for a walk


Snow stopped play again this week and really lost my psyche for climbing, nothing was working out at all. We managed to get one day at New Mills which was fun.
Never seen so much snow on the Eastern Edges and made the most of it by going snowboarding and lots of hikes. Then when it started to dry up enough for some highballing I had visitors all weekend and couldn't get out

Have since found my psyche again today as I have been to Castle Naze today and have done a few E grade routes and am going to North Wales tomorrow for a few days.
Hopefully my fit club diary will be back on track next week.
deacondeacon - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

> deacondeacon – I knew i'd seen another skateboarder on here recently. It's partly what made me go out and get one again. My 35 euro board is way better than anything I had 20(+) yrs ago. So responsive. In fact too responsive for learning again. I had to tighten the wheels and trucks up. Got a 360 this week and can crack out stationery ollies again. This week I want to try a moving ollie . I feel like a teenager again. Until the next day when everything hurts.Hadn't thought of the carrying on until you complete the 50 and then work on taking the time down. Good one.

That's great. I've been skating on and off my whole life and it always amazes me how quick it comes back after a break. Just try not to hurt yourself too much, skateboarding injuries are really frustrating when you're supposed to be going climbing the next day
AJM - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I was the one who had done Leg Slip, yes, and Si dH of this parish was agreeing with you about the nature of the Fang...

Ah I didn't remember that, sorry! Doesn't sound like it stopped you...?
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

It's been raining here on and off ( mostly on ) for about 2 mths. Wettest Winter for ages in Andalucia. Not grumbling too much though it could be worse.

Cracked Actor is safe from what i remember or i would not have been on it ;0) Much better ( i.e. more solid and not looking like it will fall down any moment ) rock.

Not got much info about the trad route. Will have to wait and see. I've already told my mate he is leading the 6c+ and 7a pitches.
Exile - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for that - still tired this week, I'll be able to stop getting up early when the Lakes Winter finally ends!

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

M: Rest
T: 1hr 20min bouldering 4x4, core, 4x4.
W: Rest
T: Morning: 50min Fell run, Evening: 1hr10 bouldering - power endurance traverses - got blue!
F: Getting up at 3.30am paid off - Great Gully on Wasdale Screes with the right hand finish, V 5***** on the day. Nine pitches in all.
S: 1 hr recovery run.
S: Tried 4x4 but shot so did some core work and went home

Still feeling tired - going to have an easy wall week as I haven't really had an easy week for a while and I know from experience that in a situation like this my body needs the recovery although the temptation is to keep bashing away.
Exile - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I think I saw you there - I was on my bike with my two lads. Don't be put off by A Sense of Doubt, it's very sequency, (and E4 6b in the Lancashire guide book - I think I spied that you had Northern Limestone.) Izzy the Push is deceptively steep, along with everything on Red Wall, too.
Exile - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Cracked Actor is safe with little / medium wires, but responds well to a positive 'keep moving' approach.
AJM - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers biscuit. Enjoy the trad!

Pretty good week this week really.

Tuesday - TCA. Can't remember exactly but a few problems and did the 6b+ and the 6c+ circuits, and had a few goes on the 7a+, found the down climb roundabout move 35 very tough indeed, but managed a link 1-18 and 18-35 with the tiniest of breaks - move 18 is v tough when non fresh. Hopefully Get some better links on next time.
Wednesday - Warehouse. Couple of routes to warm up, including a 7a+. Got on the 7c. First go got up to the crux but made the clip at the lip, silly, and fell off. Next go got through the hardest crux section, fell off the last move to get stood up above the lip. Third go I nailed it! Got through the roof, stood up, somehow managed the balancey wobble up to the penultimate hold and nailed it. Very chuffed! YYFY
Friday - Gogarth. Castell Helen to start, did a rather damp p1 of Atlantis, then escaped out as both north west passage and true moments freebird were both wet. Calves hurt! Went down to look at the Strand but it was still in the shade so we did Resolution Direct, 3-pitch main cliff E2, led the middle pitch which is sometimes given the hardest tech grade, in general it all felt pretty steady which bodes well.
Saturday - Tremadog. Seconded First Slip. Very thin! Then went to Porth Ysgo. Managed to do a bunch of good easier stuff, got very confused about Toys and Toys right hand, flashed two things where the lines in boulder Britain show them but they def aren't V6 or even close and the photos on UKC seem to be a sit down start to justice. Regardless they were quite good fun. Did higginsons scar second go, would have been nice to flash but heel popped rocking out left. Managed to flash Fast Cars, given V5, crazy footless campus problem but felt strong, was good. Tried Brian Spray and a 7A right behind Fast Cars but didn't get them.
Sunday/Monday - Devils Kitchen. Turns out 2 years or so of not winter climbing means you climb like a newborn giraffe walks, and get scared pretty easy. No grade pushing - disappointing but probably due to unrealistic expectations. Did some easy stuff and felt like I was moving a lot more fluidly by the end.

A good week. Good vibe from some of my climbing partners about pushing the trad boat at the moment so keen to try and do more, but mega busy work and a need to do relevant stuff for Ceuse means priority juggling...!
mrchewy - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers biscuit! Getting to the top of a 7a may take forever as I just got whupped by limestone today.

Amazing weekend - winter, trad, sport and bouldering! Met AJM and Si dH... I'm utterly mullered and in need of a rest day.

Mon - Rest day, needed.
Tue - 80 dynamic. Warmup 5 x V0 + rainbow around. Then 4 x 15s all downclimbed (12,11,13,10min)
Wed - Toproped 3+,3,4,5,5,5+(1rest) coffee,6a(fail 1clip left)6b+ to halfway, 6b+ to halfway. Took it easy after the day before.
Thu - Rest day, travelled to Wales.
Fri - Winter. Crib Goch to Crib Y Ddysgl traverse, Ladies Gully on Trinity Face and then down the Pyg Track. Hard day due to powder.
Sat - Bouldering Port Ysgo. Really Cool Toys - Font 7A/V6. Obviously not that grade as I managed it second go.
Sun - Soloed Idwal Stream, walked up Y Garn and down the NE Ridge.

Put some effort in this week.
Font 7A! What a joke, hard V2 I reckon but Si thought maybe V3 but I'm mad happy with that anyway, the V4 thing next to it would go if I go back. My style however and I was cained on lots of other stuff except the V0s. Most happy with the TR on the two 6b+ routes that I breezed to halfway. 4x15s were pretty comfortable.
The winter stuff was amazing! Wales was just stunning this weekend and the weather couldn't have been better.

Good to meet up with Andy and Si at Port Ysgo and see just how much better I need to be.

Must try harder.
Ali - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks biscuit - a poorer week this week, with some significant lack of motivation, leading up to a good weekend.

M - Hour and a half yoga - felt ok, especially as haven't done it for a while but good to stretch
T - Had planned to go to BMF but didn't leave work til late. Went for a G&T and then a half hour run when I got home!
W - Climbing at Biscuit Factory - poor session, feeling like I've totally lost my climbing mojo
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - First individual day of orienteering festival - stupidly lost a few minutes on one control, but apart from that an ok run. Came in 5th overall on my course.
S - Second individual day of orienteering - better run, started slowly and took a few legs to get into the map but after that went quite smoothly. Quite pleased but ended up a bit further down (6th) as a couple of fast people entered for the day. Managed to catch up a couple of places overall and 3rd, so quite pleased with that.
M - Relay day - I was on third (final) leg - felt really tired all the way round and struggled to concentrate, but fortunately the course was easy so despite a few small errors managed to come in in a decent time and pulled team up a few places to 6th. Good end to the weekend!

Achieved my orienteering target with three fairly consistent runs - a rareity for me! But really struggling on the climbing front - lost all motivation and psyche - not quite sure how to get it back, but hoping it returns soon!
mrchewy - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Too many have done some amazing things this week - so well done to everyone but especially Iain and kylieo.
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

You just reminded me to simultaneously congratulate/commiserate Iain.

Amazing run but you must be a bit ( when i say a bit i mean a lot ) gutted.

Come back stronger and show them what you can do.
biscuit - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Exile:

> F: Getting up at 3.30am paid off - Great Gully on Wasdale Screes with the right hand finish, V 5***** on the day. Nine pitches in all.

I did that a few years ago when we had 2 amazing Winters back to back. Awesome route - but it was only a 40min drive from my house so we didn't have to get up at 3.30 thank god.

I thought it was the best ever until my mate dragged me up ( and i do mean dragged ) Botterill's Slab 2 days later.
mattrm - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

> s: 62.1 miles.. anglo celtic plate 100k. 7:19:09. 4th, 3rd in Britain, so bronze UKA medal, but GB unbeknown to me set their qualifying standard as 7:18.. so looks like there will be now south africa trip to the world champs..

The sods! That's impressive mate. I couldn't even comprehend 7:19 over 40 miles. Let alone over 62! Good effort. Well I'm sure you'll hammer them in the world champs.
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Exile:

Ah ha! Another fitclubber on the loose!

Thanks for that about A Sense of Doubt. Some of the comments on UKC logbooks about it are that it's reachy, sequency with a crux dyno so yeah I'm trying not to feel too bad. And Nik reckoned it's E4. Izzy the Push was incredibly polished and really pumpy. Not an E2 I want to lead!

Where are you based? If you want to get out midweek evenings to the Lancs quarries give me a shout. I'm keen to get out in the evenings but don't have any local patners. Would be good to hook up. Once the Lakes winter is over, obviously. You still have more to do! Good going on the epic grade V. Sounds like a very long and satisfying day.
Nomics4sale - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

If it's safe then it's worth a go. Maybe. (Wimping out already!).

A long multipitch at those grades has to be good, what more do you need to know??
Kevster - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks Andy.
Been a good week, though low volume again.

Tues: Indoors
Fri: Portland 7a+ OS, 7a+ 2nd go, 7a 2nd go. Pleasing. equal best onsight, best onsight grade on Portland.
Sat: Bridestones: OS 2x V4 and did another. Only tried a few problems, death sliding the snow drifts was great fun!
Sun: Caley - hungover, nothing of note really, don't even know what I climbed. F6b+ I'm told, but it felt too easy given the hangover.

Encouragingly I seem to be pulling well atm.
Would be great to get out again and push the sport a bit more. Maybe try for 7b onsight/quick ticks. HOM sounds gipping at the moment (JimmyKay?).

This week: indoor once, FB once, outside once, run once, pull up session once.

Cheers, Kev.
biscuit - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> If it's safe then it's worth a go. Maybe. (Wimping out already!).
> A long multipitch at those grades has to be good, what more do you need to know??

How about an E grade so i can start to figure out if it's death on a stick or safe as houses ;0) The guy i am climbing with has onsighted trad at 7b+ with " not much gear" and seemed to think that was great fun so i am a bit nervous.

The only problem with Cracked Actor is not getting tired when you stop to place all the gear. I seem to remember you could get a wire in just about every move if you've got the stamina.
Nomics4sale - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

ha yes the E grade system has its uses. You'll be fine, what could go wrong? You've got a 7b+ trad onsighter on board...

Ok, that makes me feel a bit better about trying Cracked Actor. Have you done The Strand at Gogarth? I'm thinking that might be a good E2 to start on.
Nomics4sale - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to AJM:

Yet another Fitclubber on the rampage!

No, no worries about the reachy groove, no reason why you would remember it. I suspect it wasn't reachy for you and even if it was it wouldn't have been that worrying. It wasn't that worrying for me to be honest (at least not in hindsight). It's a good route, I enjoyed it and was glad to hear you didn't have any horror stories to put me off!
Luke Owens - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

It's an awesome problem and i've only managed the first move! haha.

Got any tips on training for this type of problem? The hold sizes aren't the problem it's just the steepness. Train on a board more?

You feeling better now then? Sounds like you had a killer day on Sunday! Nice one!
Kevster - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Kevster – 32 in 5 great start. Get to it ! 7c or 8a ? Make a decision and go for it !

I went to Portland hoping to get on mono culture/keyboard wall.
Keyboard wall & Bilboes (shares lower off) particularly was next to a decent size land slip, the wall looked quite dusty/dirty & I didn't feel too charitable with the brushing. I see it has now had an ascent in the logbook, so maybe clean & just me.
Bottled out of KW as a warm up/partner wanted other things, so skipped that.
Then thought about Cocteau Phenom, partner led the 6c to the right to sort it out as the bottom looks run out on poor rock, but the water fall spray was an ass as belayer at the bottom, so sacked that off too.

I hear what your saying, I do need to tie on!
Twigger on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

This is true, I get distracted far too easily; though it does make the 45minute journey and extortionate entrance fee slightly more bearable.

A very lazy week training wise due to a family holiday in south Wales.

M - 12k after work in around an hour, pretty happy as only pain was blisters.
T - Pub (Start of holiday)
W - Nothing
T - Felled a 40ft tree
F - Felled a 20ft tree
S - Shunted at Gilwern Hill, knee-deep drifts, icicles on some routes but managed to keep warm somehow. 6a and 6a+ warmup, 6c+ dnf (lots of scarred rock; maybe holds missing, maybe weak?), 6c dnf (got tired, and cold), 6b to get ropes back. Good to be on rock but shunting is such a faff.
S - Felled another 40ft tree

Not sure tree felling is a typical training activity but I was pretty tired after hauling bits of trunk around and waving a chainsaw about.

Getting paid to do my job now and have a longer contract, so back to some sort of routine. More running and climbing planned, 5 mile race in my village to train for on the 19th May - I want to win.

To all running gurus - what is the best way to warm up for said distance?

When I did the 10k, I just went flat out from the off and felt terrible till a few kms in, any tips would be great.
NMN - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Twigger:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> To all running gurus - what is the best way to warm up for said distance?

I am by no means a guru, but I would do:

- about 15 mins of very easy running; followed by
- 4 or 5 or 6 accelerations (60-100 metre, flat, accelerate throughout the distance up to 90% top speed; slow down, walk back and repeat); and finally
- as far as possible keep jogging lightly right up to the start of the race.
Si dH - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I've been better this week thanks Biscuit. Reporting 9 days here due to Easter break.

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.

M: At a conference down in Brizzle so stopped off for a session at TCA. Focussed on the red circuit, which was I think supposed to be 5+-6b+? Grading desperate - I thought it was more like 6b-7a. I managed 8 of them I think in a 1.5 hour session.
T: Not much time, just did some chin-ups - decided to go for max I could do in 5 minutes by moving to 6 per set and reducing the rests to 15 seconds. managed 60 in this way, plsu 4 mre single ones just in the time limit - so 64 total although form wasn't great on the last few.
W: Just some core work while watching the tv.
T: Nothing/rest/driving.
F: Gogarth with Andy - went to Castell Helen but just did a HVS/VS combo as things were wet. Then went to Main Cliff and did Resolution Direct (3 pitch E2). Really good, and felt steady which was nice.
S: Tremadog with Andy - did First Slip (E1 5c). Found it very tough for the grade. Months of sport and bouldering hasn't trained by calves well for sustained tenuous bridging, and there was a lot of 5c. Managed to onsight it though. then went to Porth Ysgo for some bouldering - flashed a 6b+ called Higginson Scar and a bunch of easier stuff (including two things which were meant to be V5 and V6 but are at least 2-3 grades out) and got a V5 (Fast Cars) third go. Fast Cars and Higginson Scar were both very good.
S: Craig y Don (Little Orme). Did the classic E1, Hydro, which was very good, and a 6c+ called The Tyndale - first RP after resting at the crux on warm-up - the holds were very sharp. Was planning to try the E3 there but it looked rubbish.
M: Tremadog again. Did The Weaver (E2 5c) leading both hard pitches. The main second pitch is awesome, and better than Vector. Then tried Pincushion (E2 6a) and got a bit spanked. Really really hard. I managed the crux traverse by a combination of right knee bar in a chimney, right arm bar under are roof, left hand in a 2 finger pocket and left foot on rubbish get the picture, it was desperate. Also the nearest gear wasn't great, I needed bigger cams. When I'd done that I was so knackered (physically and emotionally!) I just grabbed the draw on the nut I placed over the roof rather than doing the move through it. That turned out to be fairly easy in the end.
T: Stopped at Ty Newedd on the way home. Onsighted a 6b+ called Ivan the Responsible and got a 7a+ called Black Wednesday first redpoint. It felt quite easy once I knew the moves and was rested, pretty much completely static on the crux, which was nice as it shows I haven't lost too much sport fitness. Good little crag by the way if anyone is in the area, its in the A55 guide.

Overall really happy with the Easter weekend. Didnt get on an E3 but none appeared that I was psyched enough for. Bit disappointed with Pincushion but equally pleased with how steady Resolution Direct and The Weaver felt. Definitely a lot gained for the trad season - not only back to proficiency with gear but also getting used to things like bridging and chimneying again - plus the 7a+ has given me confidence I haven't lost much power endurance with winter's bouldering. So overall, pleased. Not for a rest!

Si dH - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:
that should of course say now for a rest
AJM - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:

> M: At a conference down in Brizzle so stopped off for a session at TCA. Focussed on the red circuit, which was I think supposed to be 5+-6b+? Grading desperate - I thought it was more like 6b-7a. I managed 8 of them I think in a 1.5 hour session.

You have no idea how happy tat makes me, I've been finding them the living end too!
heelhookofglory - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to AJM:

Time to re-join UKC Fit Club!

I used to post here under my old name (same account but just changed my username to keep it updated). My old username was Steve Perry (Pezz). Some of you will remember how much I was struggling with my fear of heights and how it was holding me back with trad. That was part of the reason that I took time out from here, to take some of the pressure off myself (that I was applying) and to try to find a way through my fear.

Well without rambling on too much, I can happily say that I have progressed quite a lot. And although I'm still not leading trad, I am much happier on the end of a rope and am now spending time consolidating by seconding. So I'm now back on here with the aim of keeping myself (and others?) motivated.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up:

And this one adds to it:

So since my last post on here I've gone from mainly traversing boulder problems and shying away from heights, through scrambling in North Wales (North Ridge of Tryfan (summer and winter), Bristly Ridge (winter), Amphitheatre Buttress etc), some winter grade I/II gullies (also N Wales) and recently ice climbing in Rjukan! I'm really chuffed with my progress but it is still very hard work to make myself go out and keep climbing these routes. What I have learned is that your fear never really goes away. You can conquer it but at the end of the day fear is a good thing and you wouldn't want to totally get rid of it or else you would end up in a bad way, quickly.

So here I am again, with the hope that posting on here will encourage me to get out more and keep up the hard mental work.

Gain British Cycling Mountain Bike Leader L2 award (training in two weeks).
Gain ML Summer award (filling up logbook ready for training, so get in touch if you want to get out!).
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead some D/VDiffs this year including some mountain multi-pitch, and choose some goal routes.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.

This Week:
M: 4x12 Pushups, 3x12 Supermans, 2x8/1x6 Pullups
T: Snow tubing / luge at Chill Factore
W: 4x8 Pullups
T: Churnet bouldering session (around 30 mins after work) followed by bouldering session at Awesome Walls Stoke (around 1hr)
F: 21km mountain bike ride (3-valleys training loop)
S: 21km mountain bike ride (3-valleys training loop)
S: 21km mountain bike ride (3-valleys training loop) followed by skiing at Chill Factore
Banned User 77 - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Twigger: 10-15 mins steady pace.. I do it a good 2-3 mins off race pace.. so I do 10 miles at 5:30 so warm up 7:30-8:30 pace.

Then a few strides, so 50m or so at a quicker pace.. then some stretching..

Exile - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

It must be said Botterills is very good too, but it hasn't got the here today, gone tomorrow appeal of Great Gully.
Exile - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I'll give you a shout - mate and I usually get out Tuesday or Wednesday evening either Lancs / Scout Scar or into the Lakes.

I head pointed A Sense of Doubt a few years back so could probably give you some beta on it if you fancied that / your ethics allow for such a thing(!) - it is very good when the moves slot into place.

All the routes on Red Wall, and particularly Izzy, get a lot of top rope traffic. I must admit to being guilty of working my way through some of them on TR for power endurance training through the winter(s). All the grades on the wall are pretty hard in my opinion.
Exile - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Oh, and in answer to your question - based in Kendal.
JayK - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Kevster:

I did Bilbo's on Sunday. Would have fancied Keyboard had someone been there to share beta with!
biscuit - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Exile:

True enough. It was a late night phone call from my nearly delirious mate shouting it was in condition and then did it the next day.
pork pie girl - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

hiya... last week went like this (as you know i had a knacked pelvis/back and a cold)

m-chiropractor session, got SI joint moving again (i think), told to continue exercising but to not work so hard for a little while,settee and a bit of stretching of the back, lemsips for cold,general sulk
t-settee, 30 mins gentle session on turbo, pull ups on flat holds (as doing them on mezzanine thing in garage, then stretching, back to settee, overdosing on lemsip, icing back
w-settee a.m (more sulking)chirpractor session. enroute home ..gentle half hour on bike in gym, gentle short bouldering session,back twinging, settee, lemsip and ice on back (see the pattern?)
t-settee, gentle bike,gentle mini boulder,back twinging, stretching back. settee, lemsip... ice on back
f-malham... felt out of sorts, back twinging, nice green mucus, few laps on top rope on consenting, dogged 7th aardvark but didn't finish it, jumped off the top three times as too scared tp finish it, but happy with lobs. pm turbo (half hour gentlish pace)stretch
s-malham 3x consenting on top rope, 3x space race on top rope, fingers mega sore from first go (quite a warm day) mountain bike ride
s-longer mountain bike ride, good amount of ascent, loosened back up alot

this week so far:
m- malham, space race.. clipped it up with stick, top roped first section, unable to do it clean still. pulled rope, led up to 5th bolt, with brief rests to gather myself (adrenalin overload) felt strong. top roped rest, this time up to 5th bolt without any rest. pm mountain bike ride fro m malham.. freezing but good climbing, even in the snow... which was frozen and therefore just about rideable
t- today... space race, clipped up with stick, worked section under roof a bit (feels scary). pulled rope and led (with a couple of brief planned rests,adrenalin a but too much)up to 7th bolt and traverse right under the roof to the undercut. happy with this as sussed out section from 5th to 6th bolt then from 7th bolt to the end of the roof traverse whilst leading.. hadn't given it any serious attention before this as it felt intimidating and i couldn't get to grips with it on top rope. Then top roped it as sarah didn't fancy going to the top and getting the quickdraws!!.. knackered.. arms need a rest

so far staying in the uk for the easter holidays is working out ok... it's a bit cold (as expected) but dry .. it would be great to get space race rd pointed over the holidays.. but endurance and my head might hold me back.. we'll see.. in the mean time it's worth the effort as it'll be my first 7b+


useful on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks for doing this, biscuit.

D'oh, I'm late again! And I'm going to miss next week possibly unless the wifi is working in Kaly. Really looking forward to that: only 4 sleeps now, to temperatures 18 degrees forecast! :D

The body fat calculator takes your gross weight and indicated body fat percentage (I have fancy-schmancy digital scales that do an ok job of guessing BF%) then back-calculates the lean (i.e., 0% fat) body weight. So as you lose weight your lean mass should stay the same, assuming the weight loss is fat only. All a bit open to interpretation, and all a bit of fun...

This week:
25/3 A bit of everything in the gym: run, row, etc. overall about an hour's mid-intensity CV and strength exercise
26/3 Warrington North West Face wall, only time for 9 routes and a bacon barm:
5+TR, 6a+TR, 6aL, 6bL 3/9-> 6aL (finger twinge), 6a+L, 6a+L, 6bL (felt easy; overgraded?), 5+L on the nasty feature wall, 5L end.
27/3 Out for pizza binge
28/3 Drive home
29/3 77.5k 16.0% BF - I'm happy that it's fairly static given I've been scoffing loads this week and troughed double portions of pizza on 27/3 as well as ice cream!
Followed by a 40' UT1 run (160bpm) around Newbury (distance about 4 miles)
in the evening, I went for a casual 5 mile walk along the canal.
30/3 morning: Organising Kaly stuff/packing. Afternoon, driving back up to Snowdonia with a plan for Easter Sunday...

31/3 Early start: up at 4am to get onto the top of Y Garn in Snowdonia's Glyder Range before dawn at 0648 and to get some good pics. The Best pics are here:

Write up on time: erm...
6b aim: I've been looking after fingers this week, but still there or thereabouts. Depends on the walls really...
Prep for Kaly: 15kg of climbing gear (for me and my 7YO daughter), money, accommodation, flights checked in, EHIC card, guide book, undies, swimming cozzie... all *thumbsup*

Learn to trad lead: Nothing this week, although news for next week ;) (that's the problem with posting late: you already know what's happened so far this week!)
Also going to Pembroke for May Bank Holiday, so need to be of a standard by then; at least will be good seconding experience.
Build hand tendon strength this year without damage;
Lead an E1 5a trad, and an outside 6b sport before October.

Thanks again!
Eagle River - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

We had this discussion in the car park but I'll repeat it here in front of everyone

If you can get from the floor to the 4th bolt it's all-out redpoint time for space race. The top section is about 6c and you get a full hands off rest for as long as you want it before that section so there is no reason whatsoever for you to be top roping it from now on.

If you're afraid of falling off its because you don't know what's going to happen if you do fall off so you assume the worst. The way to get over that is to take those falls, lots.

I've climbed with you a lot and can honestly say I've never seen you go all out on lead with sole concentration on the moves, there is always an element of second guessing moves thinking about the fall instead.

When grade pushing its always going to feel hard, you'll often feel like you're about to fall off but you need to keep going nevertheless. You're strong enough and fit enough for that route so the only thing stopping you is your head.

Sorry for the tough love, I know you can do it!
Nomics4sale - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to Eagle River and PPG:

Well said ER! I watched PPG on it on Monday - you're deffo well capable of the climbing and as ER said it seems to be a head thing holding you back. That's ok though, we all struggle with that sometimes (or I do anyway). Try to focus on the moves not the potential fall, give it some grrr and believe!
mrchewy - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale, Eagle River and PPG:

And further to that - having never seen you climb, my advice would be to cut out the Pork Pies and eat Curry Pasties instead.
biscuit - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I feel your ( mental ) pain. I get the fear a lot and its my biggest handicap.

Ask yourself why you are doing this ? Because you want to climb the chuffing route and get the tick.

If your desire for the route is strong enough you will get it.

De-sensitisation is the only thing that's worked for me. Gradually bigger and bigger falls from the moves that worry you. Then put those worries away, as you have tested them and found them to be false, and CRUSH !

Enjoy the amazing feeling of climbing with total focus. It's only ever happened to me a couple of times and it's well worth the battle.
mrchewy - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: I know I don't solo hard but I get that focus every time I do - things just flow and nothing else matters. I put a rope on and the nerves creep in. Pretty sure it's me letting myself get distracted that's the issue - by people on other routes, someone eating cake at the bottom, having to find gear placements or clip.
Ali - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit: Or you could use my tactic and basically get up the thing first proper redpoint because you really don't want to fall off....


Not a recommeded tactic!
pork pie girl - on 05 Apr 2013
In reply to folk who have been interested..first time on here since i lasted posted .. so.. i haven't been sulking because of the tough love (eagle no take river) ;0).. just too busy eating porkpies ...and climbing.. anyway...

I RED POINTED SPACE RACE TODAY.. first red point attempt after taking whippers on it yesterday .. really sorted my head out. first 7b+.. need to find a 7c now.. expect my arsed to be kicked badly but this last route has been a huge learning curve for me.

(and i didn't feel that nervous... just desperate to get it done.. :oD )

curry pasty girl *burp*

Kevster - on 05 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: well done! Big tick enjoy and build!
mattrm - on 05 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:


mrchewy - on 05 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Sweet! Superb effort - bet you're glad you stayed at home now!
kylieo on 06 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

yay!! good effort, super well done to you!
Ian Bell - on 06 Apr 2013
Nice one, top effort!
AJM - on 06 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Ali - on 06 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

AWESOME!!! Nice work PPG!! The road to 8a is going well... ;o)
pork pie girl - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali and everyone ...

thanks everyone...

the road to 8a doesn't feel like quite as much of dream... but for now i think 2013 will be spent trying to crack 7c.. I'm resting today (seems so wrong because it's sunny and ER and co are looking for a fourth person to make up numbers...but i'm tired... 2 weeks without a rest day from exercise)

off all next week.. still staying out in the UK .. will be trying to get a feel of what route to try next at malham at the same time as trying to keep pushing my head on a regular basis to continue building on the last few days.. for a start off i need to pluck up the courage to start leading consenting on my warm ups...yuck

any 7c suggestions for malham anyone.. not tremelo.. a. because i top roped it and climbed like a sack on shit (was having a bad day but still it's flipping hard) b. the only jug on it has been pulled off and watched nomics mate on it on friday having a mare ... surely it'll be a grade harder now.. we'll see

is there a way of getting up wasted youth for shorter people?

is chiselling the dragon worth the time and effort?

is there a 7c+ that's easy for the grade?

i've heard new dawn is nails and took a much better climber than me a long long time to tick it


pork pie girl - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to mrchewy: yes, we made a good decision to stay... sarah's getting alot out of it and wants to continue TRing space race as she it's her favourite at malham so far .. plus we're MTBing everyday in the dales and getting to relax at home afterwards :0)
pork pie girl - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: f*cking hell... i've got to take up another sport now... road biking.. on top of everything else.. i promised sarah i'd do a bit with her. My get out clause has been.. i don't have a road bike... but one of our neighbours has just told her we can borrow his ... so might be out on the road bikes this afternoon... the joys of living with a hyperactive duracell bunny.
Jamming Dodger on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Welcome to your new addiction Road riding reels you in very quickly and before long you'll be having inane conversations about rolling resistance.
Ali - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: I've only tried Chiselling, and that was only once or twice and it hurt. Depends how much you like crimping...I like crimps but found them too small and sharp even for me! But, if you're good on your feet and like small holds it may be a good choice.

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