/ UKC Fit Club Week 318

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grubes - on 21 Apr 2013
Well then noticeable success for Jimmykay and Dan on a trip to Spain. well done guys. Also well done to mr oughton on his first 7c+ 8a next

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (317) thread:

Daniel Heath - Hows the rest going? injuries feel better?
Deacondeacon - First E4 Awesome! if you can climb E3/E4 you can climb 7a and much harder!
curious Yellow - Welcome back
IainRuk - Amazing mileage as always. Hope you werent in boston this week?
Sankey - nice week in Spain well done on the 6c if you can climb 6c that fast 7a is not too far away
Ian Bell - well done on the v4. Think this way might not be soft you might be getting better
Eagle River - Gutted for you about big marine. Next session
AJM - did you get out in t'van?
Needkraken - better week?
DoctorU - sounds like an excellent trip.
Exile - Well done on the V and sounds like your fitness is there time to look to dry rock for your next challenges but still to be out on ice in april compared to last winter which started and ended in february you can't complain too much
kylieo - did you get outside this weekend?
Pork pie girl - if you have a finger injury lay off malham for a few weeks it will not be getting better going there!
Grubes - do something! Sort your route fitness out and do some f*cking Jamming!!!
NMN - wow sounds a busy week
Mr Chewy - Thanks for your time posting in fit club hope you come back some time
Jamming dodger - Wow that weeks looks hard work. Good effort
Si dH - Nice one on the 6a crux always nice when you feel comfortable at a new UK tech grade.
Jimmykay - How was brean? did you do it? LPT was awesome!
Mattrm - Did you get outside?
Nomics4sale - How was kilnsey today?
Ally Smith - did you make it to LPT? I was on voodoo child
Twigger - Congrats on the new cams
Seankenny - Welcome Back
Leon - Working PE for too long can make you a bit weaker som might be worth getting back on the problems
Nothernclimber - Hi Mary welcome. Well on the 5 flash. Good luck with the 6a onsight
Biscuit - Hope you feel better soon.
Kevster - Welldone getting out on sunday I went to the wall cause everything looked wet round me
Maria85 - enjoy swizzy
Stevemarkperry - congrats of overcoming your fear.
Luke Owens - 7b in a day boom!
Ali - Well done on the trad bet it was nice to get out after the previous failings

Hope I have not missed anyone a pretty good week for a lot of people on here
Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks grubes! Getting in early this week...

M - nothing (rest and work)
T - Run to work - 6.5 miles, 51 mins? Faster than last time anyway!
W - Biscuit Factory - tried hard but didn't achieve much (again!) - skin was really sore and felt totally wasted from 5am start by 8. Then missed my train so failed to get the super-early night I needed - boo!
T - Didn't make it to BMF due to work. Didn't go for a run due to knackeredness. Fail.
F - Nothing
S - Biscuit Factory - warm up, fingerboard, then failure to do any problems. Working a couple of the circuits and did some core.
S - ?? Hoping to get out for a run later (once they've reopened the marathon route roads) - have a to-do list of jobs as long as my arm to get through first!

This week has been really mental at work, hence the low exercise quota and being generally knackered. Hoping next week will be a bit quieter.
grubes - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:
About a yorks limestone meet.
So some people happy with the date other not as you would expect.

The weekend suggested are:
May bank holiday 24-27(?)
14-16 June
21-23 June
28-30 June
Please say a preferred date and we can sort it out

Grade wise its a full split.
Malham is fingery starting at 7a but with loads of people could give you info to get you up your first 7a
Trollers gill - has couple of amazing 7as and is a good wet weather option.
Kilnsey - Wow starting at 6c but not much at 7a quality in the higher grades 7b and above.
Yew Cogar - Tufa's it has tufa's!
Giggleswick - low grades on swans wall. Nice climbing short and quick #
Robin proctor scar - nice low grade climbing

and lots of other places.

Where to stay:
Campsite at the base of malham
If there is enough people we could book a hut

If people want to come up on poublic transport I am sure we can sort out lifts from train stations etc.
deacondeacon - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for keeping an eye on fit club grubes

Cheers for the congrats, I'm sure I could get up a 7a outside but I never go sport climbing. I'm definitely going to do some this summer though.
It feels like we're definitely on the last days of the grit season now, I'll still climb on it when it's warm but just get out on sub E grades. It's rubbish sweating and greasing up hot grit routes.
I'll try and get stuck into the lime for harder stuff (if I can get my head into it this year).

STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)
DONE The Rasp but not the others, not too fussed as I climbed around those grades and harder

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)
Still working on this but it's early days and I have onsighted my first E4


Mon-Routes up to E3 at Black Rocks

Tue-Works bouldering
Campuss session

Wed-Higgar Tor bouldering up to F7A+


Fri-Works bouldering

Sat-Routes up to E2 at Stanage


Not a bad week at all really considering I only had two trad days.

E1 5b finale slab left hand-Black Rocks
E1 5c Marmalades lost start-Stanage (not sure I did this right but I'm taking it, solid E1)
E2 5b The Sprain-Black Rocks
E2 5b Curtain call-Black Rocks
E2 6a Cave Eliminate-Stanage
E2 5c Black Hawk Bastion-Stanage
E2 5c Stretcher Case-Stanage
E3 6a Golden days-Black rocks

All onsight except golden days which was a quick ground up.
I also bouldered Hemline 7A+ which I had done before but did It better this time without traversing the footbreak.

Happy with the week and looking forward to getting stuck into some lime now thats it's starting to get warmer.

I'm going to New Zealand for three weeks so won't be posting for a while but I have a trip planned to Castle Hill while I'm out there so I'm sure I'll still keep myself ticking over with the climbing.

deacondeacon - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:
I'm fine with any of the venues as I haven't been to any. Which ones could handle a potentially large group without too much disruption?
Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: I could do May bank holiday or possible 28-30 June...stuck down south for the other two weekends
Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali: Quick question - do people usually combine a fingerboard session with climbing (i.e. as part of a longer session) or always do it separately? I don't have a fingerboard at home, so have been doing hang sessions at the wall, but I've been finding I then feel too weak to pull on anything hard afterwards. Not suer if this is because my fingers/forearms are tired from the fingerboarding or I'm just being weak...

Have been doing 7 x 7sec (with 7sec rest) on crimps, pockets and slopers with 5 min rest between each set.
Keendan - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes

I've not been able to pull hard because of my finger which might be quite damaging to my technique. Hopefully I can get by training endurance at this level for a while, then if my finger improves I can remember how to pull hard in the future. No immediate pressure though. 9 weeks till combined service champs.

M- bouldering but avoided pulling hard due to my finger
T- fitness test. Slowest time at Uni, still not bad at 1.5miles in 9:11. I'm happy that training would get me back to my previous time.

Pull up pyramid. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1
W- Derby climbing. Linking boulder problems for AnCap.
F-extra rest day because I had planned to do London Wall at Millstone!
S-Ended up at the Roaches, but had a good day. 3 E4s and bailed off an E5 slab, took a little tumble but only cut my hand thankfully. Soloed Valkyrie for the first time.
Banned User 77 - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali: No.. no Boston. terrible..

m: 11.5 on forest trails.
t: 14 miles on the road
w: 11.5 on forest trails 6:45 pace.
t: lunch: steady 4 miles. pm: steady 8 miles.
f: am: 7.6 miles pm: 7.4 miles at 6:50 pace, last 3 at 6:10 ish
s: steady 11 miles on trails
s: 14.4 miles, 6:40 pace averaged.. hard session on forest trails

Back to 90ish for the week, not too much quality but 3 decent runs.

Think I've got an entry for Berlin Marathon in September so that will now dominate my training over the summer.
Si dH - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes. Pretty poor week from me this week, been short of sleep, over-worked and generally knackered!

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.

M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Short session but I felt strong, was good. Think I was still on a high after doing The Beest
T: Short fingerboard session, just some repeaters. Think I did 6 reps of 7 seconds on/3 seconds off, 3 times (on back 3 on the good crimps). Then maybe some chin-ups, can't remember.
W: Nothing
T: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: Cratcliffe. Showed up a lack of endurance on anything powerful. Seconded Savage Messiah and Five Finger Exercise fine (done them before) but failed to lead Boot Hill or Nutcracker. Boot Hill (left hand side of the arete) I went up, did the first move of the crux but then fell off hitting the next break, took quite a fall. Pulled the ropes, got back on ground up, did that move but then fell off the next one (after putting more gear in). Gave up and Neil led it, I then seconded it clean although with a bit of a throw at one point. Nutcracker, I did all the hard bit at the start, got out to just before the arete but then pumped out and fell off. Pulled ropes, tried group up and got out to the arete successfully, but then just couldn't make the reach up the front. Tried for about 20 minutes then accepted defeat and lowered off. Disappointing!
S: not much planned today. Might do a fingerboard session in the afternoon.

I think yesterday taught me seveal things:
1) get a new chalk ball. The current one I have is crap and hardly gives any chalk out (dont buy them from Decathlon!)
2) I need to work on my power endurance pretty badly. Stamina/longer term endurance still seems ok but shorter term endurance, especially on things that are powerful on the shoulders and arms as well as just fingers, I am running out of juice fast.
3) I really need to try to sleep more
On the positive side, I took 3 proper falls, one of which was quite long. First falls for a while I think so probably doesn't do any harm really. And even if I failed, the routes were all really good.
Si dH - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Oh, does anyone have any experience of doing repeaters on slopers, and whether it works? I was thinking of trying some repeaters on the 7on/3off variety on the 30 deg slopers on the beastmaker. Not sure it would work a pump up like repeaters on the crimps do though?
kylieo on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes. Yep we got outside this weekend, it was great, more to come of that below.

Monday - bouldering. Tried hard, achieved relatively little. Sacked off the campus stuff due to achey everythings and a paranoia about getting injured.
Tuesday - conditioning and pull-ups - 28 in 5 minutes, slowly improving.
Wednesday - route 4x4s, warm up 5+x2, 6ax2. Then 6a+x4, 6b+x4, 6cx4 (falling on the last 2) then 7ax4 (falling on all 4!). I think the 7a was a step too far for a 4x4 route but still it got me properly pumped so I suppose that was the goal.
Thursday - off the Cheddar in the evening, very excited.
Friday - warmed up on 5+,6a,6a+ before getting on a 7b for 2 bolt to bolt goes. Got all the moves and felt like it really might be do-able.
Saturday - bolt to bolt to get the draws in the 7b then started redpoint attempts. First 2 I came off as my fingers were too cold, I took good falls though, nice to know a winter of fall practise has paid off and I wasn't worried about falling. Third go I'm not sure what went wrong, I think I just didn't believe I could do it. Got back on from nearish the bottom and got straight through to the top, left draws in for one more go even though it was getting lateish. An hour or so rest and I got back on feeling tired. No expectations but I did it! The rock was warm, the sun was off it and I just went for it. My first 7b!!
Sunday - rest day, much needed!

So my goal for the summer was to climb 7b and I got it on my second day out! Training really works! This was an easy one though so I'm not upping my grade goal as I know 7bs in France won't come as easily. I also need to climb a lot more routes below that grade, I've still done very few routes from 6c upwards.
Eagle River - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:

> I think yesterday taught me seveal things:
> 1) get a new chalk ball. The current one I have is crap and hardly gives any chalk out (dont buy them from Decathlon!)

1a) Don't bother with chalk balls, use powdered chalk instead??

Si dH - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
no, hate powdered chalk! Find I just get my fingertips coated and nothing on my palms.
Eagle River - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers grubes, I've done Big Marine before, was going for a repeat of that one (as it's a brilliant problem).

Goal: 8a by end of 2013 (Toadal Recall, Raindogs or Subculture possibly)

Mon: Craig Y Longridge. Put more effort into the SDS of Fertile Delta. Got through the crux start and into the top moves but dropped it because I didnt get my feet sorted. Didn't make it through the jump move after that but it feels close now.

Wed: Indoor routes. New routes at stockport, tried a 7c that feels aboout 8b, miles harder than the 8a that I can't do. Couldn't do individual moves on this one. Failed on a 7b too. Climbing outdoors does nothing for your indoor performance.

Sat: Malham. On the catwalk so my partner could complete his project (which he did last RP of the day like a hero). Three goes up raindogs in the blistering heat, got a sequence for the first two bolts (which I hadn't looked at before) so now have 'a' method to get from the floor to the chains, it might not be 'the' method but only RP attempts will confirm that.

Weather permitting I should get outdoors three times this week as I've got wednesday afternoon off for a cheeky mid-week malham trip.

Eagle River - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Ah, I climb at malham too much so it's only my fingertips that are in contact with the rock anyway......
Keendan - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Don't worry Si, we all have bad days. At least you've pinpointed PE as an area to tap into. I'm sure you'll see a lot of improvement through training it ;)
Keendan - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to kylieo:

Wow great work kylieo. You might have to make quick 7bs an expectation rather than a max goal!
leon on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to Si dH)
> Oh, does anyone have any experience of doing repeaters on slopers, and whether it works? I was thinking of trying some repeaters on the 7on/3off variety on the 30 deg slopers on the beastmaker. Not sure it would work a pump up like repeaters on the crimps do though?
> Thanks

I do repeaters on the 30os. I need to add about 8-10kg of weight if I use all the digits & knuckles. But if I just use 3 fingers first joint then no weight required! Also one hand on the 45o & one hand on the 30o works the pump. To be honest I open hand most of the holds on the fingerboard.
AJM - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Think I can prob do any of those. I'm the flighty type though who wont bother with the drive if its raining so wouldn't want to be chained into paying for a hut.

Yeah got out in the van this weekend. Went to Pembroke Did Mysteries and Keelhaul, especially pleased with the former because its a line I've seen every time I've walked into the range and its a very impressive pice of wall. Latter felt like a bit of a battle because it was very greasy and I didn't have enough chalk, felt like I could ping off at lots of points. Wet today so just got home.

I got to Avon Tuesday, seconded some stuff I've done before and backed off Them, bit of a confidence knock but its supposedly hard for the grade and just so blind, much respect to Kev for doing this one after his epic day of ramp ticking a few weeks back. Got a good pump going and managed to down climb clean so maybe next time.

Also went to Birmingham bouldering centre and had a good volume session, nothing hard but loads of stuff from their V3-5 circuits felt battered at the end.
Jamming Dodger on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:
Short term goal: Lose another 5lb. Am currently 8st11 and havent lost any weight this week, but instead gained a pound (OMG!) but ive been eating fairly freely. I think the last few pounds are going to be quite an exercise in discipline.
Longer term goal (by end of October-gulp): Lead 7a.
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: 28 miles bike, core stuff. Fingerboard stuff.
Wednesday: 28 miles bike. Fingerboard stuff.
Thursday: 16 miles bike, 3 hrs climbing up to 6a on lead. Did an overhanging arete 5+/6a which had a couple of dodgy moves I had to think about but pleased I got up it. First time climbing in a while and first time on lead in a long long while so I'm quite surprised. The other 6a was a total failure. Led a few more 5s and 5+s clean. Then did 1/2hr core, 1 hr swim.
Friday: 28 miles bike.
Saturday: Apart from a 4 mile walk, rest. Needed it.
Sunday: Oh Sunday, how I had so many hopes and dreams for you...
The intention was to go climbing and then swimming and ride home. In reality it was an emergency visit to the vet with a rabbit then spent the rest of the day with one of my favourite flashy blinding migraines. Time to lie down. Feel shattered now. Im not happy that ive had essentially 3 rest days this week AND felt like I needed them. Not happy at all.
Oh well, tomorrow is another day and another week. Lots of stuff in mind.
Happy training clubbers!
Jamming Dodger on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to kylieo: 7b, nice job!
Nomics4sale - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to kylieo:

Wooo! Awesome! Well done.
Exile - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

No, not complaining at all - rock it is now.

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Now winter has finished I plan to start with the 7a+, may try for v7 to, but I'm not sure I'm strong enough for the two problems I've got in mind. Still, v7 is the most ambitious of the goals.

Weeks training:

M: Evening. 30min Hill reps. Felt hard
T: Morning. 1hr fell run
W: 2hr PE traverses and core at wall. My new best session yet - may be pushing into endurance rather than PE so going to start working one of the harder traverses.
T: Rest
F: Morning. 1hr 20min working new PE traverse & core at wall. Evening. 40min continual traversing on 6b+ traverse outside. Good endurance and finger work out.
S: 50min fell run
S: Ashamed to say this may have been my first time on real rock this Spring(?) Got on Ivy League, 7a+ at Scout Scar. Was very cold and rain stopped play after 1hr 30min so I only got one real go on it. Still linked the moves to bolt 3 - to the bottom of the crux. Felt strong enough but finding the lack of time on rock meant I was finding it hard to spot the smeary footholds. Hopefully get back on it this week.
Needkraken - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: This week has been return of the psyche which has been nice and putting it to use has been even better

STG - boulder 6a, get confident outdoors, keep the psyche
MTG - 6b sport, HVS trad on second, get psyche to lead
LTG - to not be the one in the group that people have to lower their grade for

S: Depot session, mostly climbed the V0 - V3 circuit but felt I wasn't climbing badly
M: busy as usual so nothing
T: Holmfirth session, close to the 6a goal, flashed a 5+ and was generally feeling comfortable at that grade. WIN!
W: Bumbling at Rokt, had headgame issues and couldn't complete routes on the comp wall
T & F: lameness
S: Went to LPT, flashed a 5+ and climbed a 6a+ on top rope, fell a couple of times on the 6a+ (got a bit lost) hardest sport route to date xD had a go at a 6a boulder traverse but it wasn't happenening
Sankey - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: Youself and Deacondecon were on the money, cheers for the encouragement, Redpointed my first 7a today (Puddlejumper). Took lots of goes over the weekend but happy to not leave it hanging. For anyone else on the thread who has a sport target, and is not signed up to the red-point club, would encourage them to get on something at the target grade as soon as possible, you never know what will happen.

Up for trying a few more ASAP, and getting stuck into the routes that inspire me a bit more on the left hand side of the catwalk.

M: Road bike 15 miles 1600 feet ascent
T: Rock Rings (pull ups+repeaters on a big hold)
W: Circuit session at the Edge (lot of laps up to 6b+)
S: Working Puddle Jumper @ Malham on TR
S: RP Puddle Jumper (2 failed leads before doing it)

STG: At least 6c RP in Siurana DONE Start aerobic stuff for summer trip to Alps

MTG: Sport 7a project (Puddlejumper) DONE More 7a's..

LTG: Appetite (7a+)
leon on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 hard e2.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 11
Focus: LE(1/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe).

Mon: Torrs -bouldering to V4.
Tue: Nothing.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Core. Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sat: Stange High Nebb(max e1).
Sun: Nothing.

Hurt my shoulder on Monday & that along with feeling shattered most of the week meant a(nother) cheeky rest week for me.

A PB on the fingerboard on friday, quite a margin better than previous. I can hang a 30/45o combo for a full 7/3 set now & am also working on the slopey pockets on the bottom rung.

Yesterday was good, half days climbing with the wife. Did Travesties, a route I've been looking at for years. Finished the day with an e1 that I found hard, glad to see the good people of ukc giving it e2 in the logbook. We then had a night out & I'm still paying for that night out today.

Going to try and add in some system board lock-off training next week for a bit of variety.

Plan for next week:
- 4x4 -1 set.
- ARC -3 set.
- Repeaters -1 set.
- Bouldering/routes -2 sessions.
- Core -2 sets.
- Steep wall lock-offs
- Weights
Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Sankey: Nice one! Sounds like everyone on FC is at Malham at the moment?! I feel left out!
pork pie girl - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

hiya ... finger and wrist injury has been ok since leaving chiselling alone.. elbow on same side a bit sore with working mescalito but it doesn't hinder my climbing at all and the niggle goes away after a day or two.

last week:
s- mahlham... worked mescalito in wind and rain then road ride .. soaked
m- rest
t-cardio a.m. (int training on bike), weights and core at gym before work.p.m CYL with nomics... et hem ... less than average performance by me.. but way off getting comfy with the outdoor bouldering set up in general
w- cardio and core at lunch time
t- cardio and core a.m before work. p.m boudering at uni wall.. didn't go mad but it was a constructive session and got me pulling hard and climbing steeper stuff
f- lunch time cardio and core. p.m. gentle spin on bike and walk with mates
s- malham, dogged consenting then TP'd x2 for warm up, worked mescalito.. (first half) 2nd go it came together nicely, goes after that useless as couldn't remember what to do at all.. frustrating.. fingers shredded on left hand. pm longish rode ride with good climbs
s- today- malham.. couldn't warm up on consenting as busy and too cold to hand around.. interesting queue jumping tactics by some people made me quite disgruntled. got un puddle jumper on TR twice for warm up.. not a good warm up. worked mescalito.. cold conditions but got alot out of watching a couple of other climbers on it and felt like i started to make progress again.. still hard going but i like it.

LTG- 7c+

this next week may see a reduction in my bike sessions in preparation for next i might be supporting sarah on her 112 mile wrynose or bust sportive next sunday.. i.e. riding it with her ... or i might end up going up in the car and throwing fruit cake at her.. see what she fancies

Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: Update for today - 57 min run, made myself go up a couple of hills. Felt pretty tired from being on my feet all day, but at least this means I can justify eating a couple of the yummy port and stilton chocolate truffles I made this afternoon...
pork pie girl - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to kylieo: brilliant!!! just climb what inspires you Kylio.. no rules about having to rack up shed loads of routes at one grade before moving onto another... IMHO :O) sounds like you have had a really constructive winter
pork pie girl - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali: cheese, alcohol and chocolate all rolled into one thing??? filthy.
pork pie girl - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Sankey: fab effort of puddlejumper ... it's not an easy 7a at all
AJM - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to everyone who is crushing:

Well done chaps/chapesses Seems like Fit Club is doing well atm. Makes me feel the need to pull my finger out and do something notable to report

Sankey - good job. Nice route too, that was definitely one of the better catwalk things I've done/tried.

Kyleo - good stuff! Not been on that one myself but probably should really. Plenty of things to do at that sort of grade round Cheddar.

I'm sure there were a few others too, I just remembered these ones from my last scan of the thread...
Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> (In reply to Ali) cheese, alcohol and chocolate all rolled into one thing??? filthy.

But delicious....
Jamming Dodger on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali: Cheese and alcohol. Nice.
Alcohol and chocolate. I dont eat chocolate but accept it is a widely accepted combination.
Cheese and chocolate?!
JayK - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

M- Core - 90 situps
T- Fingerboard session
W- Core - 90situps
T- Rest
F- Rest
S- One very soft 8a ticked. Hopefully that will have broken the mental barrier...
S- Chulilla, 7b+ 2nd RP. Should have flashed. A little disappointed.
Ali - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger: It works - honest! You can't really taste it as cheese - just adds something to the chocolate
Ian Bell - on 21 Apr 2013
Hi all

M - First post work bouldering trip to Stone Farm. Sandstone is hard! Did a few Font 5 and below. Nice place, will be back.
S - Portland for a (mixed) hen weekend. OS 2x6a+, 1x6a. TR dogged a 6c, bit unfit.
S - too hungover from the evening drinking on Sat. Sat around listlessly and made an early start back home.
Needkraken - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger: All sounds delicious to me!
deacondeacon - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Ian Bell:
I love Stone Farm. Got a real soft spot for it. Stinging nettle is brilliant.
Curious Yellow - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
Very low key - congrats!
And to everyone else as well, collectively another good week...

Kev - good point, I'll post a list of current goals next week. Sounds like your trad is going pretty well atm.

Mon - Castle. Good mezz session.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Portland, Battleship. Wow, it's a bit of a mess after this winter Stuck a TR up on Zinc Oxide Mountain, getting the moves okay but getting pumped far too fast.
Thurs - Cheyne Cliff. On Road Rage relearning moves, back in 2 overlapping sections.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cheyne Cliff. Road Rage. Head a bit rubbish, took some falls and it started to settle but clearly needs some work.
Sun - Cuttings. Infernal Din. Did all the moves. Very excited! I've tried it before but been completely shut down.

mattrm - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st
Long run (Yish), climbing session(Yx2), gym/swim (N), 5 ITB stretches (N), 3 core sessions (2)

Weight - 12st (no change)

M - Core, ITB
T - Bouldering (30mins @ Ogmore) / Ill
W - Rest / Ill
S - Trad @ Trebanog (Diff to E3 (fell off that))
S - Rest

Had an iffy stomach on Tues/Weds/Thur. Went bouldering on Tuesday, but really didn't feel good. Done a reasonable amount of ITB stretching. Saturdays climbing went really well. Did a couple of leads, Diff, Sev & HS, first in a very long time. Seconded a E1 with one fall. Tried on seconding a E3 (retrobolted to 6c+), got quite a long way up it, before falling off. Didn't manage to finish it couldn't do the crux. But it did feel that it would go with a bit of work. Which was really good. So fingers crossed, with a bit of work, I could really up my grade a bit this year. In fact, Jamming Dodger, if you're still going for 7a, I'm going for it as well.
NMN - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.

M: - outdoor routes, burbage north.
T: - nothing.
W: - 3.34m hills, 2,068ft.
T: – nothing.
F: - 4.38m hills, 2,289ft.
S: - indoor bouldering.
S: - 2.96m hills, 1,785ft.

First outdoor routes for 9 months on Monday and really enjoyed it.
Rubbish grades to get back in to things.
Struggled to run this week, but just about made it to an ok ascent for a hills week.
Kevster - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
Skills jimmy!

I think fireworks for you son!

It gets the grade, take it, do another if you want to prove it!
We'll done all the same, what was it?
NorthernClamberer on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Bit of a random and potentially momentous week:

1) Bought a plane ticket to Athens for the 7th to 17th November. Kalymnos here I come - anyone want to tag along?
2) Pretty much decided to sell my house and go climbing for a year in my van when I got invited to interview for a job in Edinburgh (9 month contract). Decisions, decisions....
3) Sold my click up and bought a Gri-gri 2 and 5 more sexy sport draws.....

Anyway, back to the climbing:

Monday: Tired and discombobulated to be back in Orkney after Spain. Wallowed.

Tuesday: Club night. Can't really remember what we did, several leads, 5s and then finished with orange hexes which is allegedly 6a. Had previously only done this with QDs pre-placed, this time placed the draws too and all in calm, confident manner so pleased with that.

Wednesday: Public wall session. The only people there were us 3 ladies and we had a fine time doing stuff with no macho interjections. Several leads again. One lass has got the lead fear so spent a bit of time coaxing her up things.

Thursday: Bouldering in the bouldering cave. Managed an hour but was tired. Some things that seemed tricky previously felt OK, other things felt harder than they should. Felt the difference not having been in there for 3 weeks. A couple of fingers on my left hand really hurting too.

Friday: Was grumpy!

Saturday: Outside! (Yeay). Went to the local sport quarry for a few hours. Started with the 4+, followed by a 5+ flash (really pleased with this), followed by another 5+ I have done often but which I was having a brain fart about. Last route, 5+ again, got totally beasted at the first bolt and turned to total mince. Endurance needing work I feel!

Sunday: Club session. A bit CBA but did a few routes, nothing very hard. A few leads and a top rope on a trixy 6b that I just can't seem to quite get, (although finally I worked out, flag first, hands later!).

Hopeful to get more time outside next weekend but so weather dependent up here. Otherwise, it'll be climbing at the wall (why are all the sessions now back to back?!!!) and a bit of bouldering after work to get rid of the work related grumpiness!
Banned User 77 - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to NMN: Where are you based? That's shed loads of climbing for low miles!
JBO on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Great effort Jimmy, nice one! You've got to take the rough with the smooth with grades - if it's an 8a in the guidebook you're using, it's an 8a! Like you said, you've moved past that mental barrier now of the magical 8th grade, and I'm sure another 8a you might be happier with is just around the corner.
NMN - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to NMN) Where are you based? That's shed loads of climbing for low miles!

Bamford, tend to do reps of Parkin Clough, Win Hill, for hills.
Wed and today were just on Parkin Clough, Friday went back down the other side as far as twitchill farm.
grubes - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to grubes)
> S- One very soft 8a ticked. Hopefully that will have broken the mental barrier...

Woo Hoo!!!
kylieo on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Sankey:

Yay, well done on your 7a! There is a lot to be said for getting on stuff even if you don't think you have a chance isn't there!
kylieo on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

And other yay well done! Who cares if it's soft, you've got to start somewhere.
grubes - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:
> Grubes - do something! Sort your route fitness out and do some f*cking Jamming!!!

Big thing that happened this week epic weekend raid planned for catalunya in june.

STG (July 2013):
Climb 7a or harder in UK and abroad
Regularly try and lead cracks and commiting laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Climb on the cromlech
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
Plan a font trip

This Weeks Goals:
Crack climbing to feature - fail
Evening at the crags - Tickx2

M: Rest
T: Holmfirth. Nice session helping mate try and get her first 6A and trying a few things
w: Holmfirth. Straight in at the deepend on the crimpy stuff. Tried a 7A which I worte off as not existing/being heavily under graded and made excellent progress. Also finally got a 6A I had not done due to the crap foot hold
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: LPT. Warmed up setting a top rope on a 5+
Wanted to try pink pinkie but it had a que so sacked ti to try voodoo child. Almost flashed it to the hands off rest. Then could not work top section f*cking monos.
Next had a go up on top rope committed to the mono and found I had been missing a jug. so thin myskin was shredded. I did all the moves but my skin was done in.
The tide was coming in so I lead the 6a to the right to collect the draws(gets 6a+ on here which felt more accurate).
Went up to the cave to meet a mate and I tried a couple of things in split infinity with no luck.
S: Holmfirth. The weather was looking dodging and my skin was crap. I went to try the 7A but the sharp crimps were too painful and my body was not respoding well to the thrashing the day before

Next week goals:
Crack climbing!

Nice weekend at a sunny LPT I got sun burn
JBO on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers Grubes, I missed last week because I was mega busy at college, this week was similar but slightly better... study leave starts in a few weeks and most of my exams are over by then so hopefully I'll finally be able to get my trad season started.

Realised I'd got into the Leading Ladder final in the Male 16+ C category which is basically the hardest one, the five routes I have to do in the final are 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a and 8a+, and I'm pretty sure I qualified in last place (10 go through from about 40 in my category), and also that I'll be the youngest. It's a bit intimidating but I'm looking forward to it because it means I can just try my best to top at least three, maybe four of the routes, and I won't have much pressure to perform well and place high because no one expects me too!

Mon - rest
Tue - session on wall at home, trying to get a bit more power endurance so just did laps up and down my 45deg board until failure then 30 seconds rest, four times, with a big rest between each set.
Wed - mostly rest, did a bit of core and press ups.
Thurs - rest
Fri - Did my Silver D of E practice walk thing... walked about 7 miles round a lake with a big rucksack on.
Sat - walked about 10 miles up some hills with a big rucksack on.
Sun - walked about 6 miles up some hills with a big rucksack on.

Packing light meant I only really had enough food to keep me going which meant strictly no snacking, which I think has been good for me and I've been able to trim off a bit of 'exam weight' - which is what I like to call the product of my pre-exam stress eating! Had quite a fun time too, hips a little sore though.

biscuit - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Come on, name and shame, what route was it ?

I'll give you a big virtual pat on the back even if you don't think you deserve it.

Look at it this way, it's either a REALLY hard 7c+ ( which is good for progression ) or it's a soft 8a ( which is good for progression).

Either way it's all good.
biscuit - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Kylieo and Sankey - big well done to you two a well. As PPG says, there's no actua rule that says you've got to back off or hang around gaining experience. If they went down quick it probably means there's more in the tank.
pork pie girl - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: sounds like you're in the middle of making some big decisions... the rat race will always always always be there.. so no harm in stepping out of it for a while.. if not forever .. if you can... climbing and general outdoorsy stuff is way more rewarding (in my little world it is anyway) .. looking forward to hearing what you decide to do. The climbing last week sounds like it went well. welcome to fit club
biscuit - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes.

Man flu has gone to be replaced by the irresistible lure of British pubs, bitter, pork scratchings, lucozade, frazzles, pork pies etc etc.

Last week went OK as a gentle get back into it week.

BF was 13% until i updated my scales with my age ( looks like i hadn't done that for 2 yrs ) and it bumped me up to 15.5%. Bit miffed with that but i'll take it and start from there.

Ran a few times during the week and did an hour yesterday at about 8min mile pace. Felt great to be running again and no sign of the bursitis coming back so all good.

Did 50 in 5, weighted pull ups session ( felt strong ) and was halfway through a fingerboard when my pull up bar ( i was using as a pulley ) fell down with a rucksack of weights on it and smashed the tiles on the stairs. Oops. Still not fessed up to Mrs Biscuit.

Been v busy since i got to UK with far too much drinking/eating but back to normal from today - i hope as my liver and kidneys are complaining.

Looks like Mrs Biscuit may be staying on in the UK until the middle of May. This could drive me bonkers as it could mean no climbing and i am itching to get back to it.

I am still up for this weekend if anyone can take an extra partner. I'd even go to Malham if needs be - blimey i must be desperate to get out ;0)
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes, yep, got to Kilnsey twice last week. Am liking it much more than Malham. Have you been?

STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.

Mon: hill reps with Bowland runners
Tues: CYL with PPG. I sort of get it now and was a bit more inspired to go again.
Wed: Paddys Pole run with Bowland runners
Thurs: Kilnsey, Flashed a 6b+ (New Mystique), toproped a 6c (Open Road) and a 7a+ (Quiet Flight or it could have been Direct Flight).
Fri: Tremadog, seconded Barbarian (E1) then onsighted Falcon (E1).
Sat: Malham, toproped Consenting twice, Space Race once and Sycophants twice.
Sun: Kilnsey. Knackered, led New Mystique (dogged it first then clean lead) and toproped Direct/Quiet Flight again.

First visit to Kilnsey on Thursday and what a relief, I liked it! At last a UK sport crag I can see myself getting into. Plan of action there is to RP the 7a+ I've been on, then maybe do a 7a (the Alternative Option was the one I looked at but on UKC it's 7a+??) then maybe do a 7b. All of which will probably take me through to the end of Summer at least.

Really good day at Tremadog. Slightly traumatic lead of Falcon but I mostly kept it together and was relieved to see it gets easy E2 on UKC. And apparently it's been upgraded to E2 in the new select guide.

Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Hello, happy to partner up at the weeknd if you fancy Kilnsey? Or trad?
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Can't bellieve I missed that! Seriously impressive regardless of whether it's 7c+ or 8a. Take the grade, it's 8a!
pork pie girl - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: 8a... ave ittttttt!!!!

get in there!!
seankenny - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing this grubes!

STG: Get better, do some stamina/PE training, lead an E1.
LTG for 2013: E3

M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Westway circuits, 5 at 2 mins on/2m30s (ish) off. Got pumped but not horrendously so - still feeling ill from chest infection.
T: Nothing
F: WW, circuits. 5 x 2mins, with variable rests - it was a bit busy. Got pumped but still don't feel well.
S: Nothing
S: Day hit to Peak. Did a couple of HVSs and belayed my mate on an E3. The routes were fine, the E3 looked do-able.

Congrats to those who've been bagging the big numbers this last week Nothing special for me so far, I'm just putting the leads in and trying to get my trad skills up again. A friend of mine reckons on 50 leads until you're firing on all cylinders, so this is the aim at the moment. Interestingly the HVSs I did this weekend felt easy, which is good, and highlighted that on my autumn trip to the US I was actually climbing reasonably well - despite the lack of 5.11s

Grubes, get on Bond St at Millstone, did it yesterday, it's fine, great gear, need to do a bit of jamming tho ;)
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to seankenny:
> (In reply to grubes)
> A friend of mine reckons on 50 leads until you're firing on all cylinders,

Sounds like bollox to me ;-) You're going well, why use the numbers thing to hold you back? If you want to have a go at an E1 you like the look of then why not have a go? HVS is feeling easy for you now so having a go at a safe E1 couldn't do any harm.
deacondeacon - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to seankenny:
A friend of mine reckons on 50 leads until you're firing on all cylinders, so this is the aim at the moment. Interestingly the HVSs I did this weekend felt easy, which is good

50 leads is all well and good if you're climbing outdoors 4-5 times a week, personally I wouldn't sweat it especially as you state you were cruising HVS's at the weekend

Also Because of HVS's having a reluctance to be upgraded and often include very traditional moves they can often feel just as hard (or harder) than many E1's.
In my experience I always cruise E1's but often have a hard time on stubborn, full on HVS's.

Oh yeah, open you're logbook so it can be viewed by everyone, it might help with fitclub

Luke Owens - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes!

STG - F7b+, Font 7A+ and stop overtraining...
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)

Monday - Rest - Son still ill

Tuesday - Rest - Son still ill

Wednesday - Feet on Fingerboarding -
3 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)
2 x (1:00 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)
This session almost killed me! I've never been so pumped in my life...

Thursday - Weighted Deadhangs

20mm edge
Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10 secs, 5kg - 10 sec, 7.5kg - 10 secs - 3 minutes rest between.

Main Set
10kg 5 hangs with 3 minutes rest between - 7 sec, 7 sec, 7 sec, 8 sec, 7 sec

Should of done this after a rest day, seriously tired...

Friday - Pinfold - Amazing weather, felt like summer!
2nd a mate on an E2 6a, felt like a good warm up, nothing too hard

Dogged up Lickin' Lollipops (7b) - Intense fingery affair hardly steep at all, really technical climbing (move a hand move feet twice kinda thing).

Enjoyed the moves, felt hard initially but once sequence worked out felt OK but a lot to remember. Let my mate have a go, he worked out his own beta.

I had a non-confident redpoint attempt as it was getting late. Got to the crux and just as I thought I'd forgot everthing, fail. Obviously didn't know it well enough.

Lowered so my mate had time to try. He got it first RP, I had a go on top-rope at dusk and managed a better sequence and confident I can have a good redpoint attempt next time.

Saturday - Static Bike - 22km in an hour. Should of rested felt so tired...
Did some Antagonist training too, weights - Shoulders, Triceps, Biceps and Forearms.

Sunday - Llanddulas
Well psyched to get out but felt stupidly tired. Got completely pumped into oblivion on a warm up 6b and fell off... Felt like cramp in my right forearm and golfers elbow was playing up...

Put the clips in a 7a I had tried previously. Fell off the first move on redpoint... then managed to scrape my way past the first 2 clips next go almost powering out on easy moves on jugs then slipped off an easy move higher up. 3rd go I almost fell off the start again then just got stupidly pumped higher up. Felt sacked and belayed my friend all day instead, felt like my arms stayed pumped all day...

I think I've become a victim of over-training, I definitely haven't been listening to my body and I'm really annoyed at myself. Training is supposed to be about getting stronger/fitter to climb outdoors yet I'm hitting the crag unrested, unfit and getting annoyed at myself for doing to much.

I've always been able to push myself to train that's easy for me and I always think I'm never doing enough even, but I neglect the fact my body can't keep up!

I need a much needed rest now, live and learn!
Luke Owens - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Nice one on the 8a dude! Psyched for you!
mrchewy - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Nice work man... Sankey too. Good to see.
Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: Im feeling very lowly here redpointing 6as! I may hop on a 6b this afternoon and see what happens, or doesnt happen. ;)
Needkraken - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger: I fought my way up my first 6a+ on top rope at the weekend so your not the only one!
Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Needkraken: Im staying off topropes (apart from a couple of warm up routes) cause I think i actually climb better on lead. I get a bit slovenly and "meh" on toprope. Conversely my partner says he feels the opposite and that he focuses more on toprope.
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Needkraken and Jamming:

Hey I take a lot of inspiration from you guys, the grade is irrelevant, getting pysched, progressing and trying hard whatever the grade is what matters. And anyway it won't be long before you two are on the 8as like Jimmy!!
Luke Owens - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

Stay positive! Enjoy it and don't get hung up on the grades, smash that 6b!
seankenny - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to seankenny)
> [...]
> Sounds like bollox to me ;-) You're going well, why use the numbers thing to hold you back? If you want to have a go at an E1 you like the look of then why not have a go? HVS is feeling easy for you now so having a go at a safe E1 couldn't do any harm.

I think you misunderstand me, I'll definitely be getting on some E1s and E2s over the next month (if the weather plays ball). But I'm still definitely not firing on all cylinders for trad climbing, for example my gear placements are a bit slow. It doesn't make any difference on an HVS but it will on a long, pumpy E3.
Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Needkraken and Jamming)
> And anyway it won't be long before you two are on the 8as like Jimmy!!
Hahahahahahahhahahha!! 7a perhaps. 8a.... Feels like another lifetime.

Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: Its not so much about getting hung up on grades. I climb because I enjoy it. Unfortuantely though overhanging stuff is more my style than techy slabs and sloper hell fests. And these sorts of routes dont come easy. Grade chasing is always a solid motivator for me. And im doing so much better than I was a few weeks ago so im proper psyched for more.
Will report back on the 6b... ;)
Needkraken - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger: I still find that on lead I'm so terrified I don't focus on the moves and climb well below my grade, that's part of the plan getting into outdoor climbing more so I actually have the psyche to lead (yes I'm a complete wimp!)
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to seankenny:

Ah yes I did misunderstand. I do know what you mean though it does take a while to get back into the trad thing. Maybe it is the extra time for gear placements. I'm also amazed at how difficult I find the climbing on trad routes at grades which are low compared to what I find difficult sport climbing.
mattrm - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

JimmyKay - Take the tick! Well done mate, that's a great milestone.

biscuit - fix the tiles, then tell her (that's how you do it!), that's what I did when I went through the ceiling.

grubes - I'd be interested in a Yorkshire limestone meet. I'd probably get a train up tho, wouldn't want to leave the missus with out a car for the weekend.

Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Needkraken: I cant really explain why I climb better on lead. I just dont feel the accomplishment of getting a grade on toprope. Not to belittle your preference at all. Everybody progresses in different ways. Its the fact we progress that keeps us hooked, no matter how we get there.
grubes - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to mattrm: if you can get the train to leeds/hudderfield I can give you a lift to malham

(Huddersfield is one/two stop/s from Manchester on the train to leeds)
grubes - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: oops just remembered I have a wedding 28-29th so can't do that weekend but if people want to do that date don't worry about it.
kylieo on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit and PPG:

Yeah I know there's no real need to hang around and gain experience but I know it was an easy 7b that really suited me and I wouldn't feel confident of onsighting anything above about 6b so have currently got rather a gap in grades there! Redpointing seems so much less pressure, you can't fail, there's always another attempt. And despite the fact it went in a weekend that was 3 sessions working it and 4 redpoint attempts so not exactly a quick redpoint.
None of this will stop me when I find a route I like the look of anyway!
seankenny - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

For me it's the general stuff of being confident in my gear and happy to run it out a little (very little in my case). The climbing I usually find okay - I've done plenty of climbing in loads of places, which really helps.
Ally Smith on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

It's a good idea to have a few things available as warm-ups on the lower tier for busy periods.

Have you tried Rose Coronary
or Hardly there (link-up of easier bits of Hartly hare and Puddle jumper)

The latter is one of my favoured warm-ups as there aren't any really small holds.

With regards to Mescalito; try and visualize the moves immediately after doing them to try and fix the sequence in your mind. Sometimes whilst lowering off i'll scan over the holds in front of me and visualize the sequence again. It all helps to bring it together for the RP effort
Ally Smith on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Congrats on your 8a.

To quote the first ascensionist when asked about the grade "everyone likes an 8a..."

Also, 90 sit-ups doesn't really count as a core session. try and vary what you're doing, get some; leg raises, dish-tucks, twists etc into these sessions and you'll really start to feel the difference on steep rock.
Ally Smith on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Yes, i was down LPT all day on Saturday. We spent the majority of it on the lefthand side. More detail below.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - Host of 8a+'s at LPT, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) as fingery training for;
Melanchollie at LPT & Insomnia at Dinbren.

STG (by first May bank-holiday)
- Aero-power; Get pumped 3 times a week - possible return trip to Santa Linya early in May
- Lots of core and flexibility to counteract all over body-pump that Santa Linya induces
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) before May Bank Holiday (76.8kg and 6.8% currently; minor progress)

- Re-hab ankle injuries & assess whether surgery is the answer or not (still awaiting scan).
- Continue finger boarding
- Lots of elbow eccentrics & sports massage - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise

The week just gone:

M - 16 windy miles on the road bike. Got pi$$ wet through from sudden cloud burst.
T - Llanymynech. Did some rubbish 7a+'s. 9 bolts in 35m with poor rock quality does not add up to the average sport climb IMHO.
W - Frodsham An-cap session. 3x4x12 move 7B's. Failed on last move of last set. Spot on difficulty wise, and finger friendly too. Will be back this week.
T - AWL routes. Failed on 8a again, but did lots of pumpy volume back-2-back inc 3x7b lead. Starting to feel fit.
F - Rest. Rode to work and back (16 miles ish). Then finished 1st DIY project
S - LPT. 6cx2 warm-up. 2x dog/vague RP attempt on Melancopout. Bailed due to minor finger tweaks and conditions that Ewen poetically described as "fanny batter". Then volume; 7c/+ TR, 7b lead, 8a (dog to collect draws) 7c/+ boulder traverse. Tired, but not wrecked.
S - More DIY. Then first big core session in over a month followed by some weights and a quick 10mile road/canal path ride
Luke Owens - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Which route's were they at Llanymynech Ally?

I've climbed there quite a bit, alot of dusty climbs but an big crag. Agree that most of the routes are less than average.

Have you ever been on the Nomad wall there? The routes start high up on the ledge round the corner from the main wall. Apparently all 4 routes are retro-bolted 3 star lines at 6c+, 7a, 7a+ and 7b. I've been on the 6c+ which felt more like 7a early last year. Was really good!
Ally Smith on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

My intention was to get on the Nomad wall routes as i'd heard good things about them.

We were on Pew, pew... & Incy wincy spider. Both might warrant a star with better bolt spacing and without the need to climb the lower choss wall to get to the start of the better climbing.
grubes - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to ally smith:
just realise we probably spoke as I arrived at the crag?
Were you or your mate sat under bad bad boy. My mate had a red bobble hat on asked some one about the route they were about to try before we plodded over to the far end to warm up
Luke Owens - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Grid Iron, Curfew, Jack the Smuggler and A Night Torchlight Parade are my favorites so far. All the routes tend to be a bit run out though.

I was going to try the routes you got on at some point but didn't know if they'd be worth it.

When I go back it'll just be for the Nomad wall, The Screaming Skull in particular! It's hard to find people psyched for Llanymynech though, no one seems to like it there!
Ian Bell - on 22 Apr 2013
yep, really nice place. Still trying not to crank too hard as a bit injured but got the whole summer to try things. Stinging nettle did look good (if very hard).
NorthernClamberer on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger: Hey, if I red pointed a 6A outdoors I'd be well chuffed! Soon.....
NorthernClamberer on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Cheers PPG! Yep, there has been change a rumbling for a while now, time to take the plunge though. No point in owning a van called Phyllis Paddlewagon von Discobus if you don't take her on adventures!
Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: I hope that van has a glitterball. My car does. Its the envy of.... well... errr... not many people.
AJM - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to mattrm:

this Yorkshire thing comes together I'd be driving up so might be able to give you a ride.
Ally Smith on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Don't recall; might have been Ewen and Nige? They were on BBB & Mussel Beach
Twigger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cams now claimed! though they did come in handy this weekend...might have to get me some c3's now!

M: Bridge traverse, finished R-L (V5?) and started to work L-R (V4). Gonna work up to there and back (30m!) with no shaking out.
T: 10K hilly run 45:22, new PB! with a tough climb too.
W: Bridge again, finished L-R, tried there and back but nothing left.
T: 12K slow run, very hilly.
F: Drive north
S: Stanage - joined the masses(!), Hell crack, Martello buttress, BAW's Crawl (hilarious), Tower Crack (fell off twice trying to reach the ledge, then had an epic belaying Mike up! Hardest HVS ever, but glad I did it in the end, respect to JB the little bastard, he even graded it VS! perfect example of "classic HVS")
S: Froggatt - Chequer's Buttress (perfect face climbing relief after crack hell the previous day, lovely climb), Valkyrie - I did P1 for some stupid reason, the first few jams were killer then enjoyed the rest of the route (apart form suffering hypothermia on the belay)

A good weekend getting back on grit, I love it. Hands look like I've been sparring with Tyson - much needed rest day today!
deacondeacon - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Twigger: Saturday was mental wasn't it? So busy. I was climbing around baws crawl too and have never seen it so busy. That's a nice haul of classic hvs's for one weekend.
grubes - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to ally smith: Not sure. I was with the girl with green hair probs easist way to describe it.
Anyway sounds like you had a more successful day than me
Twigger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

Never seen so many cars parked down the road towards Hathersage

Were you the guy who soloed BAW's after I'd filmed my mate on it?! He was a bit dejected after witnessing that!

Bagged 22 stars over the weekend too!
NorthernClamberer on 22 Apr 2013
deacondeacon - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Twigger: well I did solo it but It wasn't malicious. nothing to feel dejected about, it's a well good lead and there's always going to be some nob soloing your hard earned routes no matter what grade you climb ;)
deacondeacon - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Twigger: and as for 22 stars, you'll have a job beating that over a weekend. Class.
Twigger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

I thought it was rather amusing, and it looks much easier (and nicer) to solo rather than sliding on cams!

Sounds like you had a good day too - good effort on Black Hawk, the top bit looks like an arête shagging struggle!
mbh - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Can I join again?

I used to post on this until about four years ago, when I stopped running and became fat and work stressed, although, not ever as fat as the average UK man my age (50) according to a BBC Global BMI thingy I found.

One year ago, I started again, and have ramped things up gradually since then, with a mixture of cycling, walking, swimming and running condensing down, as it always seems to do, to mainly running, but still with regular swimming on top. My BMI is now 23-ish, almost every UK man my age and height weighs more than me, and I most resemble someone from Tanzania, according to that BMI chart. Apparently, I am fatter than the average Indian and thinner than the average Chinese.

My legs hurt all the time, but I can now run 7:30 ish over 7 miles, 6:30 ish on a treadmill over 5 miles and have run 1300 plus miles in the last year. In the last 8 weeks I have averaged about 45 miles per week plus 4 km of swimming and 8.5 km of rowing. I now do about 1000m of ascent each week, but this seems to hurt the most, so I am wondering whether to cut that back and do more going faster along the flat instead.

I'd like to join the Fit Club, or a running version of it if there was one, to help with motivation now that the mileage has got to this level.

My goal, at the end of May is to do the Welsh 3000s with my wife, having just failed on it last August, after a fall, bad weather (it was pouring as we walked out from Pen y Pass), and a bad night in the rain (the Warden said there was no room at the inn and I had to sleep in our tiniest tent, designed to let in the rain when you get in, in the boggy patch up from the hostel, accessible on foot by stream.

Beyond that, I don't know exactly, but I would like to be able do mountainy, distancy tings and fend off decrepitude. Is a Bob Graham round a ridiculous notion?

There is local half marathon coming up in four weeks I might have a go at.

So, this is what I have done in the last week:

Mon 64.2 Run 7.42m
Mon 64.2 Swim 2000 metre
Wed 64.2 Run 5.95 m
Wed 64.2 row 8434 metre
Thu 64.2 Run 5.09 m
Fri 64.2 Run 5.83 m
Sat 64.8 Run 8.3 m
Sat 64.8 Swim 2000 metre - what a drag this seems
Sun 63.5 Run 12.84 m

Most of the running mixes road and trail, and I try to do several (its still vague) miles a week at a fast (for me) pace, using my GPS watch to check.
deacondeacon - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Twigger: yeah baws crawl is one if those routes that feels about E1 on the onsight but about HS to repeat it, and definitely easier without a rack digging in. I really struggled on black hawk bastion, so hard to work out what to do.
Ali - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: I'm late to the party, but going to add another AWESOME to the crowd of voices - honestly, if we'd all have been at the crag, you wouldn't have been able to hear yourself thing with the cheering :0)

And I'd go with the guidebook grade!
Kevster - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali:

Hello all,

There sounds like so much psyche ousing out the thread at the moment, alongside posters really stepping upto the mark - where ever their mark lays. I hope those who aren't making the "headline" posts are still motivated and rewarded for their efforts suitably. I know I read the whole thread, as do many others, if you're not mentioned, it does not mean you are not being noticed!
New grade boundries, epic trad and star tickage in a few days effort, comp qualifiers and runners too (I don't know what makes for a fast time).
I'm sensing this is going to be a good year for FC'ers - keep it up.

Thats enough sunshine blowing for now, my week (weak), shame about work and 2 BBQs at the weekend:. Still no run.

Mon: Fingerboard
Tues: Indoors, got back on the hard blacks - just needs some work.
Fri: Wyndcliff, only one E - The Don, great route with good pro. Nice day out.

This week plan: FB once, pull up sess once, indoors once, outdoors once (trad)

I have been aiming to warm up on HVS/E1 now, with an effort on E2/3 each session. I'd like to try an onsight E4 if a suitable one presents itself. I think with mind work, I should be able to normalise E2 as being a path/expected ascent. At least on limestone.

Sport has taken a back seat recently, I should have a day on it soon and try 7c/8a.

Cheers! Kev.
Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

You win. Hands down! Bet you dont have dinosaurs on your dashboard though...
Jamming Dodger on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes: Bleurgh, just come back from the wall. Rode there and home and was meant to go swimming but sacked it off. 2 hrs on top of how I already feel would be too much. I led a few 5+s, 5s and dogged a 6a+ to death.
Think yesterday knocked more out of me than i'd thought. My body is fine but I think I need a new brain.
biscuit - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale & Grubes:

I've never been to Kilnsey so i am more tempted towards there than Malham.

I will e mail you guys in the next couple of days.

Would be up for a play on grit as well.
NorthernClamberer on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger: As a prime candidate for a new head also, I'm just going to say: take the positives! Don't get down about the dogging, think of it as working the route. You made the effort to go to the wall and you climbed a few things, I bet you climbed some of them really well. That's better than sitting on the couch eating pie! Have a well earned rest and you'll be raring to go again in a couple of days time.
Eagle River - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Include me in on that email Andy, it'll be good to see you.
Eagle River - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Another congratulations from me Jimmy, that's ace.

JayK - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to all:

Thank you for all the praise. It was a very soft touch - two move boulder essentially (talk about picking out the easy ones that suit eh?). Going to count it for the time being as I'm more psyched than ever. All I want to do is go and get on more hard routes. Even just projects. When I bouldered v11 - I had a massive sag in my climbing. It was like I'd achieved my ultimate goal. This time I'm just psyched to do so many more. Cannot wait to climb this year. A good start - but it's not over by any means. Raindogs is going to be on the cards for a few days, as is muscle beach, elite syncopations and cider soak. I've also got October and Xmas hols to look forward to (Spain?) and possibly ceuse at the end of May.

Just need to keep my head down and keep training between climbing trips.

Ally: I usually do get more core stuff in - I was just trying to fit stuff in between heavy workload nights. I don't know whether it makes much difference but those sit-ups are always on inverted bench with weights.
Jamming Dodger on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: Thanks Who needs brain cells when youve got glitter balls eh?! My belayer is very patient. And unfortunately going back to Slovakia for a week. Dammit. No rest for me; have to commute to work at the very least. Dammit again!
Ah well, strength of a BEAR, BEar, bear... ;)
Jamming Dodger on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: 8a and V11?! Oh to have half of your ability... Good work!
JayK - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

Remember all of my hard stuff is probably only 6b...
heelhookofglory - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes, it wasn't easy, in fact it was very very stressful at times but it has totally been worth it. Spending the time working on my head-game has improved my climbing much more than working the fingerboard has (although that did provide gains). It's amazing how much your head holds you back. At the end of the day it doesn't matter how strong you are, if your head won't do the move then the body won't follow. I just need to keep on getting out.

Gain ML(S) -- I'm filling up my logbook ready for training at the end of 2013, so get in touch if you want to get out!
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead 20 mountain multi-pitch of at least VS 4c by end of 2014.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: and this one adds to it:

This Week:
M: 5.7km mountain bike ride
T: 1hr bouldering at Churnet up to V3
W: 1hr Bouldering at The Roaches (Peace of Mind boulders), 1hr bouldering at Churnet (Quarry & Lion Buttress), 8km mountain bike ride
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: 9km mountain bike ride
S: 16.7km mountain bike ride (Dog & Monkey at Cannock), 1hr bouldering at Churnet
Nomics4sale - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Morning. Just read those blogsposts, very interesting. I'm curious to know if and when you plan on tackling those 8,000ers? Or are you focusing on other goals for the time being?
grubes - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
So James 8a sport 8A bouldering .... what is missing? :P
Twigger on 23 Apr 2013
AJM - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

So is there a mini FC gathering in Yorkshire this weekend then?
Ally Smith on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to AJM:

I'm probably heading that way Andy. Unfinished business at Malham...
AJM - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Day or weekend?
pork pie girl - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to AJM, ER and AS:

i'm there (malham) tomorrow and saturday(briefly on saturday as got a big day on sunday on the bikes and got my mum coming round later on saturday)

my business at malham will remain unfinished for the entire summer i expect
Ali - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry: Look forward to having a look at those later - I know my head is the main thing holding me back so tips on how you've managed to fix the problem would really help me.
Ali - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Positivity, PPG, positivity! You've been racing through the grades recently - I'm sure it is doable for you
pork pie girl - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Ali: hey don't worry about me and positivity .. i should get the 7c+ but i have to be realistic about timescales and the amount of effort required along the way.

what's your next project/objective?
Ali - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Not really got one, other than get Something Stupid ticked (which may be harder than it should be!) and E2 this summer... a new project might help my motivation a bit, though feeling pretty psyched at the moment.

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