/ UKC Fit Club Week 362

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mbh - on 23 Feb 2014
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

Link to last week’s (361) thread:

NOTE:- a training article written by Alex Barrows, it could be useful to some so here it is:

Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:

02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 – Si Cox
30/3 - ?
06/4 - ?

Summary of last week:

Eagle River - what are the main benefits of the yoga? Managing to keep sane in this weather?
mrchewy - great week for you. So close with the 6a+ !
Si Cox - working on V2-4 consistency, aiming for V5. How has Scotland been?
AndrewW - lots of running. Do you notice any difference, the more you do?
hms - 7a onsite at Chorro! Fanfares...etc! More thoughts on how you will get on on grit?
Curious Yellow - well done on giving the boulder comp a go. Now in Chulilla.
mbh - will you get to do the Grizzly in a fortnight?
mattrm - Dishmeister - 900 dish tucks is some going. Good luck with the 7a goal, sounds like you are making good headways towards it.
Alun - Great progress with the weight loss.Did you get outside?
Dandan82 - great evidence that your training has been working. Mind the elbows!
grubes - did the weather let you get to Malham or has it lived up to Eagle River's description of it as a waterfall?
Ally Smith - Great efforts on Fish Eye. When can you next get to it?
Humperdink - sympathies re the tendon injury. Any improvement? Impressive dedication in all that cross training.
Exile - Good week for you. Have you been on the new woody?
Luke Owens - another one with great progress to report. Good effort and nice for you to see a return on all your work.
IainRUK - great sustained mileage, "15.3 mile road run 6:36 pace for a hilly loop".amid your 5th 90+ week in a row. Where in the US are you moving to?
Nick Russell - another epic raid on distant lands, this time bagging two good winter routes. Great stuff.
Just Tintin - gets outside! Impressive confidence in the restorative powers of lentil salad.
Nomics4sale - You came close to a 7a onsight, and anyway you did loads, before and after the Zen epiphany. What are you going to do about this confidence thing?
Spud_23 - Five gym sessions, and more besides - is that so bad?
biscuit - a) what have you done on the beastmaker? b) scales have no tact.
Sankey - the horror, the horror, of the gym perhaps awaits you. Never mind, seven weeks will pass by in a flash. Great work at Siurana.
Ali - Hope you have a great time at Chulilla, whatever you manage repoint/onsight-wise.
stevemarkperry - keeping up the MTBing. What have you planned for the Alps?
pork pie girl - not quite the week you wanted, but plenty of positives in there.
AJM - giving and taking beta with the best of them. Sounds as though things are going swimmingly.

Apologies if I have missed anyone out or appear to have misjudged your reports. Plenty of to-ing and fro-ing between rainy UK and sunnier climes.

Patience, patience, it will stop raining, one day, won't it?
Nomics4sale - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:
Morning all. Mbh, I can do 30/3. Would offer to do the following too week but I'll be in Turkey.
mbh - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Cool, thanks.

02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 – Si Cox
30/3 - Nomics4sale
06/4 - ?
JBO on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh: Thanks mbh, back from El Chorro.

Had a really, really good trip! Weather didn't always play ball but we got on the rock every day. A big thanks to AJM for some excellent route recommendations. Started the holiday feeling a bit stressed about not climbing hard enough and not getting enough hard routes done. I realised I just needed to relax and enjoy my climbing, and stop worrying about grades! So the first step I took was to delete my account, which actually feels like a weight off my shoulders... anyway sure enough the next day I was climbing much better! Only downside was I didn't do any red pointing of harder routes, there were just too many good routes around me.

Sat - Escalera Arabe. Warmed up on a 6a and 6b+, then did a Top 50 6c in a groove which wasn't actually that good... then managed to onsight a 7b called Rock the Kashbah, which I was pleased with because it was short and powerful - the kind of thing I wouldn't have managed a year ago. Also onsighted a 35m 7a+ wall/slab climb called Zona Cero, which genuinely felt like one of the hardest routes I'd ever done. Definitely a couple of 6b moves in there. Good refresher course in how to climb after 5 months on the wall!

Sun - Las Encantadas. After warming up we did a funny short pockety 6c, which had good climbing but it was hard to know how strict to be with the line. Then had an onsight attempt at a 7b+ called Generacion Limite, which came to a halt at 30m when my foot slipped in a horribly thin groove, when I thought all difficulties were over! Needless to say, a big gutted. Cheered myself up again onsighting Gros Rouge, a good 7b.

Mon - Frontales. Warmed up on a nastily polished 6a and 6b, then scraped up an onsight in the rain of a really hard 7a called El Truco del Almendruco. Went up to Poema Roca to escape the rain, and I tried a route called Talibania, which was 7c to a first lower off. Think rock fax got it wrong because it was way too easy for 7c to the tat shown as a lower off in the guide, but going to the first proper lower off was nails... Very confused.

Tue - back at Frontales. Warmed up at Sector Suizo, which was perfect for me. Good sustained lines of big holds! Onsighted a 7a+ to finish warming up, and a 7b+ called Alicia. Really good route, sustained but also with a tough crux. I think I was quite lucky to get the sequence right... then went round the corner to try Honk Down, and found it with the clips already in - woop! Climbed really smoothly, shook out every other move, and got to the crux at 30m with plenty in the tank. Went to the intermediate, sorted my feet out, then stuck the crux! Feels great to onsight 7c again, and it was such an amazing route.

Wed - a big day out! Went the sneaky way to get to El Polvorin, and did a classic 6a+ and 6c (which were both pretty tough) before walking up to Makindromo. First stop was the Los Tigres sector, where I onsighted Speed Kings, a 7b+ after lots of down climbing and shaking out before finally committing to laying one on at the crux. Dad then did Life is Sweet, and I had a play on Lourdes! The route is amazing, and I could manage all the moves fine, but there's just too many of them! To stand a chance I think I'd need to spend some time figuring out some of the several (apparently) no hands rests... finished off onsighting Los Loi Laufen, a good pumpy 7b with scary old bolts.

Thurs - Desplomilandia. Crag of the trip, loved it here! Warmed up doing a couple of easier routes, all classics, before getting on a 7a+, which was all steady apart from a bouldery start. Then I got on Liron Careto, which is just the line of the crag! The 7a start was actually tougher than expected, but I had a good rest at the ledge before committing to the 7c upper section. I really had to throw myself at every move, they were all right at my limit, but thankfully the holds were all pretty big! A tense upper wall lead me to my second 7c onsight of the holiday - another good recommendation from Andy. Despite the sequence being more obvious to follow, I think is my hardest onsight to date, with a lot more hard moves, as well as having to put the clips in! After that we went up round the corner and I managed Akira too, which looked like lovely techy groove from below but ended up having a nasty bouldery crux which I barely got up - great day.

Fri - back at Frontales once more. Warmed up a bit, then saw a break in the endless queue to faff about on Little Brown Baby, a very popular 7a+, which already had the clips in. Good route, the crux was the only section without jugs! Then went further up to do a much less travelled route - a four pitch 7a. The most crozzly rock I've ever been on! I think falling would be impossible, you're stuck on like Velcro. Brilliant route, I'd recommend it to anyone looking to escape the polish. Finished off the holiday in good style by onsighting Anack Sunamun, a brilliant 7b/+ next to Honk Down. Great way to end a great trip.

So the total tally was:

5 x 6c
2 x 7a
4 x 7a+
4 x 7b
3 x 7b+
2 x 7c

All of which were onsight, which is by far the most successful sport climbing trip I've had! Really pleased to see training paying off, after being so unfit not that long ago. Its also nice to have done more powerful routes which I wouldn't have managed a year ago, thanks to more time spent bouldering, and not being afraid of properly laying one on!

Sorry for the long post...

Cheers, Jake
mattrm - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

I'm not even sure I'm doing the dish tucks right tbh. Basically I go from flat to sit up and one end and pull my legs to my stomach and then flat again.

STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 2lbs (3lbs loss)

M - elbow and shoulder
T - 300 tucks, e & s
W - elbows
T - 2hrs indoors
F - 300 tucks, e&s
S - Rest
S - 500 tucks, e&s, yoga

Good week all in. Nearly onsighted a 6b+, literally tapped the last hold but couldn't latch it. Got about 3/4 of the way up (not expecting to do it) and my head kicked in full time, ohh I'm going to onsight this. Ohhh can't blow it. I'm nearly there and not too knackered. The last move involved a match and I just didn't see that the match was needed. So I didn't do it and just couldn't reach the last hold, couldn't jump for it. Up till that point it had been fairly easy, the holds were all close together, but they were all just awkward, all good holds which were upside down or sideways. So as long as you were fit it's a good route to onsight.

The 6c looks like it's a goer as there are no moves on it that I can't do. Was worried the top would be harder, but it's ok. No stand out crux (apart from getting off the ground) just hard blocky holds, but you can get in balance on quite a few parts so it's not super strenuous.

Diet and weight was excellent. Very happy with a 3 lbs loss in a week.

3 core - 2
5 elbow/shoulder exercise - 5
1 climb - 1
1 fingerboard - no

This week:

5 core
5 rehab

Eat well so I can 'STS' on weight (it's a weightwatchers thing according to my sister, stands for 'Stay The Same').
AJM - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Awesome effort Jake!

I didn't like the 6c at Arab Steps either. Talebania is a weird one - Rockfax definitely have the lower off in the wrong place, but I've heard its basically 7c/+ to the first lower off (once you've done the powerful moves into and up the groove) and then 7c+ to the top lower off above that.

Glad you enjoyed some of our recommendations.

The consensus from team Chulilla by the way is that you need to spend more than 20 minutes on an 8a at some point otherwise your first 8a will be onsight!


Am getting on pretty well in Chulilla. Have had another play on El Ramallar (7c+), really like the moves so keen to put some more time in. Have tried to onsight 2 7b+s, fell off the last hard move of the low crux on one, lowered off, and then stormed to the top for a second go ground up effort. Then yesterday I tried another and fell off the last hard move at about 30m, pleased with how I'd read every move up to there and if I'd just been a bit cleverer on the move itself it might have gone. Monster ride - throwing for the clipping hold for the last bolt at ~30m. Inching closer to an onsight. Tried a 7c too, pumpy as sin, no way fit enough to onsight - I seem to be fine as long as I don't get stumped by a move, which I guess is a sign I don't have the aero fitness to hang about and work things out and can't read sequences onsight quite well enough at that level yet. Good route, but it seemed to aggravate my wrist so going to play it by ear regarding getting back on it.
Hugh Mongous - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing this this week.

Mostly training rather than climbing this week in the hope it'll help towards completing the project.

Weather over here has been amazing this week btw. Anyhow ...

M - 40 mins running. Fingerboard session.
T - Resting.
W - Training climbing outside. Sets of 6b+/6b/6a+ until wasted.
T - Fast walking up hill for 30 mins. Ruddy harder than running on the flat. Dog wasn't very happy (she's getting on and a bit lazy).
F - Fingerboard session. Hip flexibility exercises.
S - Not training, but went trad climbing for first time in 2 years. Great fun but too embarrassed to relate what sort of grades led.
S - Monster fingerboard session. A hundred press ups.

That's all. Did I mention how nice the weather was?

mbh - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

I still have what may or may not be plantar fasciitis in one heel, which is making running impossible at the moment, as I found out yesterday. I have also had a debilitating cold for about 10 days now, that is going through all the stages and won't go away. So, I haven't done much for the third week in a row.

M - 40 miles cycle ride to my mum's in France. via cafes and coffees.
T -
W - 40 miles back
T -
F -
S - 3 miles hilly running. Very slow and then very painful for the rest of the day.
S - 14.3 miles cycle, 350 m ascent, very windy.

I have been roller balling my heel, but it has not yet made any noticeable difference. Not tried pool running yet.
Jamming Dodger on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:
Not a bad week in all. Did a 9 mile run monday (felt hard towards the end, even the dog was knackered), rest on Tuesday, 30 miles riding to work etc and then a climb in the evening. Made some progress.
28 mile commute Thursday. And rest/wine/steak on Friday. Saturday was a short four mile run and today climbing. I ate an entire malt loaf on the drive there...
Making really good progress on the climbing front (it must have been the malt loaf). Stamina is much better and im getting a "feel" for the climbing again. I also have an excellent coach
I also got bought a roller stick massager thing. Its brill. We had a go last night and slept like dead people. It really makes your muscles feel wobbly and nice.
Not long now to Chorro. 9 days on our own with no kids, work or other day-to-day stuff. Just climbing, resting and the turkish baths. Cant wait.
Post edited at 19:50
hms - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing fitclub. No, I've still no clue how to train for grit - anyone?

Light week after Chorro, plus elbow a bit sore so been waving weights around to try to make sure it doesn't becoe something worse.

M cycle commute
T cycle commute, TCA bouldering in evening. Absolutely heaving, with more than it's fair share of total numpties generally being clueless. Finished off the yellows except 3 sandbags and a dyno. No luck o any of the greens - they just seem to be a hell of a step up, which is demoralising
W cycle commute
T Redpoint. Fairly gentle session doing routes in singles. Did umpteen more red core routes, sole attempt at a black was not a happy experience.
S UCR 11 routes, all new ones except the warm down. 6c onsight, 6c+ fell right at the very top, 7a+ which will take some work as it is unforgiving
S TRX session, which hurt a lot. From now on the TRX will be known as the IOT (or instrument of torture to it's victims) I'm sure it's doing me good really.

grubes - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to hms:

Just climb grit it eventually clicks.

Bouldering is a good place as you learn the smears and the holds are better than they feel.
You want it cold really cold not had a proper grit day this year. It climbs very different at 10c 5c and -2 and below.

It feels better as the temps drop
hms - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes. I suspect we are going to get spanked. Primarily will be bouldering, but as Millstone is just down the road I'm also hoping to get a few routes in. Main issue with temperature is I fear there could be a distinct lack of enthusiasm from my kids if it is properly grit. Much bribery may be required! I guess is dissent amongst the ranks gets too bad there is always the new Sheffield Awesome walls to try out.

Alun - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Sounds like a fantastic trip, well done! I need to get down to El Chorro. I've heard it's got quite polished in some of the more popular crags, is that something you found?
Alun - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Many thanks mbh for the summary!

Climb Font 7A TICK(+)!
New STG! Climb Font 7B
New STG! Get as strong as possible for April trip to Targassone
Ride 130km route with 2500m ascent on road bike.
Do some more roped climbing, get back to best sport grade (7b+)
Lose weight to under 70kg

New MTG! Font 7C ???? I pulled onto one today, it didn't seem impossible...just very thin!
Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (165km) in June
Lose weight to under 67kg

Redpoint 8a

M - Indoor bouldering. Didn't warm up enough, fingers felt tweaky. Disappointed
F - Indoor bouldering, felt really good, no finger issues
S - Rest
S - A morning's proper bouldering at last, and after warming up I ticked the Font 7A project I was working last time! Chuffed! Also discovered that a different guide gives it 7A+ which means I'm double chuffed. After that played on lovely 7B arete and got a bit further than last time. Then, when very tired, pulled the starting holds of a 7C to see what it felt like, and was not discouraged.

Weight is down to 71kg so that's good. Very encouraged by my performance on the boulders today. The other good news that in April it look like we're going away en famille to Targassone, with some friends. Will be the first proper trip with the nipper who will have just turned one by then. Hopefully it will go well enough to encourage repeat trips...

JBO on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy, I think in a weird way just having routes recommended as doable gives a big psychological boost as putting your mind on something achievable rather than 'just giving this a go'...

I would've spent longer on Lourdes but dad didn't have much to go at and it was getting late by the time I got on it. Agreed though, I just need to find something to commit to.

Sounds like good progress on the onsighting though. Don't know if you were aware but Ak Sunamun is given 7b+ in the Andalucia guide, so you can't be far off!
biscuit - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Sounds like you were most impressed with the Liron Careto onsight. Whilst that is impressive I'm much more impressed with Honk Down. I've seen many steady 7c onsighters (and an 8c climber ) fluff the onsight.

Great trip
JBO on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to Alun: thanks! yeah generally there was more polish than I was used to, but only on easier routes and things labelled 'classic' or 'Top 50' in the guide... at the grades you're climbing you'll escape the polish once you've done your warm up and walk a bit further from the car park!
biscuit - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> Morning all. Mbh, I can do 30/3. Would offer to do the following too week but I'll be in Turkey.

Is it true you're having to go to turkey this time as if you go to Spain again you will have to apply for residence ? ;-)
biscuit - on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh.

Biggest thing for me this week has been climbing pain free for the first time in ?????

Thanks to Paul ( The Fox ) for that. Quick assessment in between routes and my elbows and shoulders feel great a couple of weeks later. I didn't realise how much my shoulder in particular was restricting me, not just in climbing but day to day as well.

On the down side I have now got two tweaked fingers. Ring on both hands. I've been trying some at limit on sighting and have now hurt my left ring finger again ( hurt it a few weeks ago bouldering ) and my right one both on vertical crimpy routes. As my target for chorro is annak sunnamum I'm not too worried.

The onsighting didn't go that well. 1 6c+ and 2 7a's failed. 1 6c+ done. Route reading was the problem. Did some more today really concentrating on movement and technique. I can keep pretty good technique up to 6c+ On sighting. Happy with that. I felt very fit today so I think a couple of sessions this week to keep the onsighting going but take it easy on the fingers.

I'll also do some running and stop eating so much. I'm still generally eating well. But too much and too much booze. Or the scales may be broken of course. They never have been before but I can hope....
JBO on 23 Feb 2014
In reply to biscuit: Hmm well I think I was lucky on Honk Down to hit the crux right, and stick the hold, but Liron Careto just had so many hard moves! Perhaps it's a style thing, I'm not so good when things near horizontal! Either way, thanks!
Eagle River - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Absolutely ridiculous performance there Jake, super impressive.
Eagle River - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh

For me the Yoga works a lot of muscles not used for climbing (which has injury prevention benefits) and there is a lot of strong core work (always helpful). Since doing it I've not had any lower back muscle issues (that I used to get from time to time) and it stretches out all the back muscles made tight from climbing.

Not much for me this week, felt a little ropey at the beginning of the week so just did:

Wed: indoor bouldering, ticked off a hard v5 that alluded me the previous week and a new V6 then went straight to the circuit board. Focused on the 6c circuit which on the 1st go I got round twice, 2nd go 1 + 1/2, 3rd go 1 + 1/4 then 4th go just about got round once. Pull ups and press ups to finish.

Fri: Yoga.

Will probably get 2/3 climbs and maybe 1 yoga session in next week.
Dandan82 - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks MBH, had a little bit of elbow trouble this week but i'm keeping the training flexible to allow them to recover, it might be my imagination but it seems to be getting harder and harder to make them hurt so hopefully they are getting used to the punishment...

M: back/arms; weighted chin ups, offset chin ups, lock offs
Chest: bench, incline fly, tricep pull down
Fingers; CWP fingerboard hangs 5 secs
T: Climb; indoor, routes, aerocap
W: Climb; boulder, was supposed to be AnCap but elbows were complaining
F: Painting the utility room (what ever happened to DIY club? )
S: Climb; outdoor! 4+,5+,6b,7a+,7a+(tick),7a+,5,7a+,7a+,5+

I came super close to ticking an indoor 7b on Tuesday, two more crimps on the headwall and i'd have been done, but it's great progress so i'll have a rematch next week.

Saturday was fantastic, beautiful weather on the south coast all day so we went to the Cuttings on Portland and had a ball.
Finally ticked Live by the Sword which has been bugging me for 3 years, I picked myself a crux sequence on my first go (after narrowly missing the send) and sent it really comfortably on go 2, I always find it surprising how easy they sometimes feel when they finally go.
So thats my first 7a+ since the operation, I nearly got another too after figuring out the moves on Men Behaving Badly which stumped me on the last visit, but couldn't quite put it together, next time for sure.

STG: 7b redpoint indoor. - Super close on 7b, sent 7a+ outdoor
Stay injury free - sort of tick
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
grubes - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:
> grubes - did the weather let you get to Malham or has it lived up to Eagle River's description of it as a waterfall?
Thanks MBH sadly not. Found out a mate who is pretty keen on malham is back from Spain so hopefully this weekend but not sure

STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):

This week's goals:
Bike 4 times or more - Fail
2 15mile+ rides min - Fail
2 rides in a day both - Fail
Malham? - Fail

M: Cycled 17.6km 152m Ascent.
T: Cycled 25.5km 329m ascent. Including landing on the bonnet of a white van (his fault not mine).
W: Rokt 2 hours. warmed up on the circuits. Endurance building fast
T: Was gonna go for a ride but took the bike in for mud gaurds and a check up following the crash
F: Rest waiting to pick bike up called too late for me to pick it up before they shut
S: Collected bike and cycled 8.4k 82m Ascent.
Birchen bouldering and soloing. Warmed up soloin a VD and a S then tried horn blower good progress but beta would help a lot.
Good day lots of problems up to 6A according to the peak bouldering guide the BMC guide is bloody harshly graded!
Came away with 16 new ticks good day.
S: hour at Holmfirth 1 new problem at 6A which was nice

Next week Goals:
at least 4 rides
200km in February.
Nomics4sale - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh. Sorry to hear about your heel. You were going so well! Hope it's not going to be a long term issue. Getting on the bike in the meantime is definitely worth doing to maintain your fitness.

STG: 7b or V6 indoors
MTG: 7a onsights or quick 7bs in Turkey
LTG: UK 7b+ RP and more E2s

Mon: Spain as per last week's post
Tues: Hill reps
Weds: Bowland trail run. 15.4km, 375m ascent. 6.03/km.
Thurs: core and back
Fri: Depot bouldering. Tried the pink circuit. It's Dave Barrans' set which is a bit harder than usual.
Sat: 9.3km local trail run, 196m ascent. 6.10/km.
Sun: 12.3km road run, 142m ascent. 5.11/km.

The last 3 or 4 months have been a bit meh in terms of progressing. Maybe I need to try something new.

I haven't got anywhere with my V6 or 7b indoor goals which I think is because I'm not actually climbing much at BoulderUK (where the V6 would be) or on indoor routes.

On the plus side, I'm really enjoying the Depot bouldering league circuits. No idea about grades but hopefully I'm progressing power a bit.
Nomics4sale - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to biscuit:

> Is it true you're having to go to turkey this time as if you go to Spain again you will have to apply for residence ? ;-)

ha ha hilarious this comes from you, permatan biscuit ;-). Where you off to in a coupla weeks again??
Just Tintin - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Very pleased with this week. Lots of work, led 7a indoors with a couple of rests (clean 7a is an LTG), and got on real rock twice (takes me past goal for twice total in Feb). Daily plank plus:

M - Rest
T – Leading Brookes. Warm-up working technique on 4s and 5s (open grip, quiet feet, outside edge etc) then horrible pinchy 6b – PUMPED! Surprisingly then led 7a – all clips and moves completely right first time, but a couple of rests due to pump from previous 6b. The route comes down in 2 weeks so will make linking it a mini project for lead nights. Also remaining wary in case it is a soft route or just suits my style. Recovery drink.
W – Stamina. Problem/minute x 30.
T - Bouldering Milton Keynes. Some V2s and V3s. Working to put together a massive roof traverse V3 – stamina fest which will need fresher arms.
F – Bouldering Cratcliffe – 13 routes before it rained. ‘The Egg’ is a horrible boulder.
S – Birchen first trad of the year. 6 routes up to HS remembering how to do it. Worked Banff Film Festival in Derby. No matter how many times I see it, the Yuji Hirayama film never gets old!
S – Short walk up the hill at the back to haul back logs for fire. Woodchopping. AKA rest day?
pork pie girl - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

pretty much like the week before *yawn*

but with gym workouts and sesh at kendal wall that was pretty good.
pork pie girl - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to biscuit:

true though isn't it?
pork pie girl - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to biscuit:

paid my parking fine.. took hours to sort out.. sent from one place to another.. but calpe had a good vibe going on .. so just chilled and let cashing out 100 euros just wash over me... went for a long run and beach workout after seagulls stole my last bit of hazlenut choccy off the balcony... climbed much better the next day... spain is ace
Humperdink - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing this

> Humperdink - sympathies re the tendon injury. Any improvement? Impressive dedication in all that cross training.

Thanks again for putting this up.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs (fail). Represent county at the Inter-counties XC.

MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)

LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half

Very much a bitter sweet week for me this week:

M: am - gym 30mins bike, 1 x glute set, 1 x core set. pm - gym 60 min bike
Tu: am - gym 1 x core set, 1 x 360 set. pm - gym bike 60 min
W: Ankle not really any better so decided to stop cross training and just rest everything for a few days.
Th: Rest
F: Rest
Sa: National XC Champs - Nottingham. A great day of weather for the 127th national champs. Ground underfoot was pretty firm and there was a touch of glamour with Jonny Brownlee running the mens race (think he came 10th). Sadly for me I missed out on racing but was there to watch my gf come 38th in the ladies race (amazing performance considering she is not training properly) and even better - my club won the mens team race - WE ARE THE BEST CLUB IN ENGLAND!!! (maybe ).
Su: ~30 mins very easy jog - ankle stiff and a bit sore but ok so fingers crossed for this week. ~4M

So despite being pleased for everyone it was mixed with frustration as I knew I'd missed a chance to be part of a team winning a national team title. The team score was the almost same as when I had made the scoring six last year and we came 4th! But thats the nature of sport and others had worse hard luck stories than me - you just don't know whats going to happen on the day! Its all motivation for next year.....

Nomics4sale - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

Ha ha still plenty of space for more trips .
Humperdink - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Sorry to hear its not much better. I'd blame who ever gave you that naff advice about rolling your arch/heel.....
biscuit - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> ha ha hilarious this comes from you, permatan biscuit ;-). Where you off to in a coupla weeks again??

Touche !

mbh - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Humperdink:
Yeah, bloody crap internet, snake-oil nobodies....

On the other hand, you cannot, I am sure, grasp the awe with which I read of your running performances and exploits. That National XC thing, for example,that you should and could have been at were it not for the inconvenience of actual human frailty. I have done enough running now to really imagine what the start line(s x many) of that must be like, and what those who are there must have done to get to that place.

Big high fives too to your gf for doing so well!
Post edited at 10:31
Si dH - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Just Tintin:

The Egg is awesome!
Nick Russell on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to hms:

> No, I've still no clue how to train for grit - anyone?

Get one of those foam rollers, cover it in sandpaper, and get someone to beat you with it?
Nick Russell on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:
> Nick Russell - another epic raid on distant lands, this time bagging two good winter routes. Great stuff.

Cheers mbh, it's all about the epic winter raids. Sadly my boots have been sent for repair (rand peeling off at an alarming rate) so unless there's a really quick turnaround (possible, I guess), I won't be going anywhere this weekend.

M - Sinister Prong (IV,5) on Liathach. We wanted to get started on the drive back ASAP, so we moved at a decent pace. Soloed the easy bit up to the crux gully, pitched out 2 rope lengths (on one half rope, we were going light) and ran back down. It was pretty Scottish (white-out conditions) on the top and raining below about 500m but a really great day! 6 hours car-to-car.
T - Rest
W - Yoga, Swimming (1.8km)
T - Climbing at Redpoint. Only 10 routes, but I was trying harder stuff, including a couple of the black "core" routes.
F - Core.
S,S - Nothing.

So a bit of training, about as much as I could fit in given the constraints at the weekends. This weekend was good fun, but a bit of a disaster training-wise. I went on a booze cruise* to Belgium/Netherlands with some uni friends. A bit too much beer on Saturday night, poor sleep and poor diet, it will probably take me most of this week to recover...

I've finally got round to seeing a physio about my foot, which has been bothering me on/off for at least 2 years now. It's never that bad, but I sometimes get a pain in the arch, normally while walking on flat ground. (i.e. running, or walking up/down hills doesn't bother it as much.) It came back after the Torridon weekend (not surprisingly) so I'm temporarily holding off on the running pending a diagnosis.

Short term goals (February)
Maintain volume, quality endurance sessions. 4x4s, starting Tuesday and Thursday this week
One winter climbing weekend. Tick, epic weekend trip to Torridon!
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. If I count 2 days winter, I've done it. Maybe this weekend I'll get on rock?

Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. Tick!
Stick to the training plan. Set back a week. Entering week 5/12 now.

Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 61/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Teams gala end of March. 50m and 100m fr relays plus a leg of the medley, not sure which stroke.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.

*of the slightly more classy variety. We came back with 2 cars full of Belgian abbey/trappist/lambic beers, not the usual crates of lager.
Ally Smith on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Back to Oliana in another 3weeks time

LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race

MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana.
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!

STG (The coming week)
- Get over lurgy
- Drop some weight – 76.4kg and 6.8% BF this morning.
- If successful with the first aim; get in the groove with aero-power training – embrace the pump.

The week just gone:
M - Broken from lack of sleep and 3 days climbing.
T - Boardroom – started with some bouldering and felt surprisingly strong. Flashed lots of the green v5-7 circuit. Then aero-cap 4x4's with Luke Owens. Alternating 4x fingery 7a/+’s and 4x steep 7b – good aero-cap session – panting hard between reps – getting the intensity right.
W - Parisellas an-cap session. 4x7B, 4x7B+, 4x7B. Totally boxed on last rep of last set; again hitting the intensity spot on
T - Campus deep-locks, offset pull-ups and then foot-on campus session. Some core and press-ups to finish off. Felt wiped out afterwards and quickly went into full-on shiver lurgy mode…
F - Barely functional 100F fever lurgy.
S - Ditto. Going to supermarket felt more epic than Himalayan expedition.
S - Ditto.

My tastebuds have grown tired of lemsip and I’ve barely left the house in 4 days. Off work today; missing out on a trip to Hamburg
spud_23 - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Some awesome trips on here! Feeling humbled/inspired!

5 gym sessions to be replaced by 5 wall sessions this week. Missing that pumped feeling.
Got some serious plans for the year that if gotta pull my finger out on
Exile - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing fit club

Yep, been on the woody, think it will add to what I need but surprised by how much warming up I need to do to get the most from it - far more than PE / E workouts.

Aims for the year:

VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)

Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish

Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)

Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

M: pm: 50min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 1hr 30 at cave, warm up then power training on board
W: am: An hour playing on the skate park on my MTB while my lads scootered. Not training as such, but the scariest thing I've done in a long while!
T: pm: 1hr 30 at cave, warm up then power training on board
F: 50min dry tooling - good session, (still) keeping winter mojo going for when the weather sorts itself out
S: -
S: am: 1hr 30 at cave, warm up then power training on board.

Weight this morning 11st 10lb, 2lb down.

Good week on the climbing front but could have done with another run to keep the cardio ticking over
Exile - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

Were you at Kendal wall Sunday morning? If so my apologies as I was the block in a beany belaying two (sometimes loud) kids. I was going to come and introduce myself but thought the line "Are you pork pie girl?" might not go down brilliantly if it wasn't you.

If you weren't actually at Kendal Sunday morning then I now feel vindicated / relieved!
Exile - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to people in general:

Some amazing holiday climbing going on, well done one and all.

AJM - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

I've been feeling the same here thanks to Ally's beta list. Good to have an idea what to go at isn't it...

Yeah, I'd seen that - don't know what it is really, there's an awful lot of it but there are also a load of good rests too.....
Exile - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

Your Monday looks a good day out - well done for stealing it!
mrchewy - on 24 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Ta fella - much appreciated.

Crazy week sorting my life after working away so much but by Friday, I was all sorted to head to Wales and three days off.

Porth Ysgo on Saturday was dry but the tide didn't really go out - played around on the dry rocks, I'd left the guide up top but did some stuff about V1/2 and basically relaxed and switched off from work.

Sunday the weather was so shit, I couldn't be bothered to even drive to the indoor wall. So it was a roast dinner and sit in front of the logburner with Mel all day...

Seems like the rest did me good tho, I managed to push my outdoor sports grade a fair bit today.
Nick Russell on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Exile:

Cheers, it was a good day! Several times during the drive back I had my doubts, but it was worth it.
Exile - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

Had a quick look back at last week too, even better effort getting Poaxhers Fall done, I thought it was an excellent route - a little harder than the Ben classics of the same grade and in an amazimg setting.
Nick Russell on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Exile:

Yeah, I agree. The setting in Torridon is amazing, definitely the best place I've climbed in Scotland so far. We didn't quite get the usual solitude - I think there were 4 other parties in the Corrie that day - but I guess that's what happens when everyone knows the conditions are poor further South. It did feel a bit harder than the grade V classics on the Ben, but still way easier than grade V Welsh water ice!
Exile - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

And Lakes IV!

Even with four teams in the corrie, (which coincidently was the same when we did it,) it's not exactly the Northern Corries is it!
JayK - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Desplo is amazing isn't it?! The crag I'm desperate to go back to when I'm next in Chorro.

I found Liron Careto really hard. However it was the penultimate day of a 3 week trip and I'd bust my finger open on Trainspotting the previous day. Very big powerful moves through the roof. Would definitely suit a light person with a strong core.

Talibania is ridiculous. It's a 7a jug run up to the first tat into a very cruxy two bolts - Hence the tat. Once you've done the crux to the first chain the last couple of moves to the second chains doesn't add anything. I think you get a no hands rest at the first chain anyway? Can't really remember that vividly. Anyway you should have been on Eye of the Storm, Thunder Struck or Shark Attack!! ;-)

Glad to see you had a great trip. Cracking place eh? If you liked it there, then Forada, Costa Blanca would have you collapse in excitement.
Ally Smith on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

> If you liked it there, then Forada, Costa Blanca would have you collapse in excitement.

Or go somewhere with some proper class like Rodellar or Terredets?
pork pie girl - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Exile:

yes i was there with a bloke with a furry face... come and say hello next time,.. name's Andrea.. which you probably won't mind shouting across the room
JBO on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to JimmyKay: Yeah I'd love to back too, barely even scratched the surface... lots of stuff to go at on El Triangulo which I didn't even realise was there... Yes I hadn't realised how steep LC was from below until I got up there, it's close to horizontal! Agreed about the core, I cut loose several times - bad form.

I found the whole thing with Talibania very unsatisfactory, you're right I should have tried one of classics. But dad doesn't really get the concept of RPing so it would be a lot of standing around... Been to Forafa before but it was very cold and I think all I did was fail to O/S Muscleman. Would like to go back there too, the harder stuff looks amazing. Think I might be potentially hitting Gorge du Tarn this Easter though which I think is similarly exciting.
JBO on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Ally Smith: Rodellar and Terradetts don't really offer the same variety of grades as El Chorro though do they?
Exile - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

Thanks, will do.
Pagan - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

> Think I might be potentially hitting Gorge du Tarn this Easter though which I think is similarly exciting.

Tarn is amazing - if you're climbing in the 7s there can't be many better places to go. You'll have a blast.

Ally Smith on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Eh? Have you seen how much rock there is in Rodellar? and if you consider Collegats alongside Terredets you have all the grade range you'll ever need!
JayK - on 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Rodellar is amazing.
Ally Smith on 26 Feb 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

> Rodellar is amazing.

Tentative plan is to crush Oliana to dust, then move on to Rodellar for the 2nd week after Easter...

Curious Yellow - on 26 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing the stats mbh. Back from Chulilla last night so posting up to the end of the trip and will do a short update next week.

Mon - Boulder. Lots up to V4. Short campus.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Boulder. Ticked a longstanding V5 project, another one down
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Chulilla - El Oasis. Dogged up Danos Colaterales (7b+) x2, had a RP and fell off pumped a couple of bolts from the top.
Sat - Muro de las Lamentaciones. Mileage, lots of long 6b+ OS. Wandered along as far as Pared de Enfrente, fell off low down on Cantalobos (7b).
Sun - Rest.
Mon - El Oasis. Warm up fail leading to clipstick deployment on 6b. Redeemed myself by ticking Danos Colaterales and then onsighting Plan Z (7a).
Tues - El Oasis again, it's a great crag Bit chilly, didn't do much. Quite close to another 7a OS (Top of the Rock) but hesitated at the wrong moment and fell off.

Bit sad to be back in the UK so soon - it'll have to be a longer trip next time. AJM - great to see you and A, good luck getting projects finished this week!
Ali - on 27 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing Fit Club mbh - sorry for late post but figured I'd do Chulilla in a oner and was brain dead last night. Did think about not posting but bullied myself into it - gotta take the bad with the good I guess!

Last week up til Thursday - nothing - frantically trying to get stuff finished before changing jobs (and with ongoing incidents) and sort stuff for holiday.

Fri - Chulilla Day 1 - felt completely wasted and a bit spaced out. Went to Oasis and warmed up on a 6b, then tried a 6b+, hung on sharp holds for a while before bottled a stretchy move (the bolt was literally at my waist) to rest on rope before finishing. Top roped a 7a which was awesome but found the crux really hard.

Sat - Chulilla Day 2 - Disaster. Failed spectacularly to onsight the 6b warm up (lovely route, not soft but fair at the grade and good moves) - for full shame, see blog post - did it clean second go after a lot of talking to myself on the way up. Forced myself to flash a one move 6b+ (oh the temptation to say 'take' on the crux) and a 6b.

Sun - Chulilla rest day - didn't really feel I deserved a rest day but skin was sore and decided I needed to change tactics if I was going to get anything done. Had a lovely relaxing day - went for an hours slow run in the morning then reading and cooking. Finally started to relax.

Mon - Chulilla Day 4 - Oasis again. Warmed up onsighting 6a+ then had a top rope go on a soft 7a (Plan Z). Moves fairly straightforward but a bit pumpy. Got it clean on lead next go with a painful pump at the top! Finished with a top rope burn on the 7b+ CY had just done - good route.

Tues - Chulilla Day 5 - final day and after a step forward previous day fell 3 back. Warmed up putting bolts in Plan Z, but got pretty cold and penguin-like after. Couldn't decide what to do as didn't want to get stuck on a long route and felt really tense. Ended up stupidly getting on a thin 6c, had a bit of a paddy at the 3rd bolt, couldn't make myself do any moves above bolt, apologised profusely to patient belayer and lowered down. Top roped it clean, then finished top roping a loooong 6b+.

Trip goal - redpoint 7b
Trip acheivements (ha ha!) - not much to show for 4 climbing days:
- 1 x 7a second go
- 2 x 6b onsight
- 1 x 6b+ flash
- 1 x 6a+ onsight
- 1 x 6b second go
- top rope goes on 7b+, 7a, 6c, 6b+

Trip positives - Chulilla is an amazing venue, routes were generally awesome, lovely moves and generally my sort of style. Would love to go back at some point. Great to catch up with AJM and A in their amazing van and nice to get away and chill with friends.

Trip negatives - total disaster climbing wise. Physically I was weaker than I had hoped (having done about 1 boulder session in the previous 3 weeks) but realistically that didn't really hold me back a huge deal. There were only a couple of occasions on the trip when I really tried hard,.

Mentally I was totally shot - I actually can't remember ever having been quite this bad. Part of this was I think because I started the trip completely knackered and stressed with work and the thought of starting a new job the first day back from holiday (and on 5 hrs sleep!). Usually on trips I have a point on the journey when I feel myself relax and the tension drains out - I didn't get that until the rest day on this trip, and then I think the final day was messed up a bit with thoughts of work and going home. I obviously was worried about something as apparently I woke the others up a couple of nights screaming :-S Not sure what this says about my dreams but I don't remember any nightmares! I just couldn't focus on the climbing, make myself try really hard and really, really struggled to climb above the bolts even on easy stuff. Disappointing, as I had done a fair bit of indoor falling practice in Dec/Jan.

Not really sure what comes next.
Luke Owens - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to mbh:
Cheers mbh!

Getting bored of plastic pulling... Managed to tie in outdoors last Saturday!

Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups
10 Dips
3 x 12 Front Dumbbell Raises (10kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (20mm Edge):
Progressive Set:
7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs, 12.5kg - 10secs

Main Set:
15kg - 9secs, 15kg - 9secs, 15kg - 7secs

Evening: Aerocap - 30 Mins

Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Off-set Pull Ups: 2 x 6 Reps 2 x 8 Reps 2 x 10 Reps

3 x 10 Hammer Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Front Raises (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Upright Shoulder Rotation's (5kg)

Evening: Aerocap 4x4's with Ally

Set 1: 4 x 6b+
Set 2: 4 x 6b+
Set 3: 4 x 6b+
Set 4: 4 x 6b+

Psicobloc 6c 4 goes failed - tired.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Boardroom Routes

5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 6c+, 6b+, 7a, 7a, 6c, 6b+

10 mins Aerocap warm down

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Glorious weather on the Orme! Did the 30m extension to Contusion 2nd go, mate sent me the wrong way first go. Gets 6c+.

Bouldered when mate left early, tried "The Greek" (7A) a few times getting close but was tired.

Sunday: Rest
Post edited at 01:34
Nomics4sale - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Ali:

Hey Ali, don't be disheartened! Climbing is all about ebb and flow or so I've been told and maybe you're just going through a bit of an ebb atm with all the other stuff you have going on. Near total lack of training for the trip won't have helped either. You'll be back on form again soon.
Nomics4sale - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Curious Yellow:

That was an awesome Monday!! Nice .
heelhookofglory - on 01 Mar 2014
In reply to mbh:

Ta dude.

A good week, started off slow and then built up to the race on Sunday, which was bloody hard work! In hindsight I did too little at the start of the week and too much at the end. My race-day fueling was terrible and I had no legs for the race at all which meant that my strong point, the climbs, became my weakness on the day. All-in-all it was a fantastic day and I have learned a lot about how not to race a mountain bike.

Got some trad done as well this week which was lovely. We pretty much had Stanage Pop to ourselves.

The Alps trip is a holiday with the misses so just mainly easy walking and trekking, looking forward to it but I want to be fit enough to enjoy the long days back-to-back.

This Week:

Weight: 138 lbs
Training Hours: 8:35hrs
Pitches (lead/2nd/total): 2/4/6
MTB Rides: 3
Walks / Scrambles: 0

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: 1:18hrs / 26km mountain bike
F: Stanage trad. Lead 2 routes and seconded 4 giving a total of 6 pitches before the rain hit
S: 1:20hrs / 20km mountain bike
S: Winter Classic XC race at Cannock Chase in the Enthusiast Male cat (top cat)

Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get fit for Alps trips this year: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.

MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): 2/4/6)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)

VLTG (dreams):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Hard Alpine routes
Something on the NF Grand Jurasses...

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