UKC

Afternoon all.

Still en route back from Gower - thanks to Rebecca, Ben and Matt for a cracking weekend and a rare opportunity to climb with MrsAJM - so stats will be up later.

For info, there's a few FC folk planning to be down in Dorset this weekend, hopefully hitting the dws at Lulworth at least one day...

In reply to AJM:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_588-688264

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

mrchewy - the ascent of Pen yr ole Wen sounds like too much glutton-for-punishment for my liking! But I can imagine that the tenacity it brings will prove useful when you hit pitch 25 on the Westgrat!

Powderpuff - that’s a decent mileage day at Almscliff. Had you done any of them before?

Si dH - I’m glad you’re on fit club at the minute because your posts always remind me that I could be doing that little bit more and achieving that little bit more. You’ve taken this whole fatherhood thing in your stride as far as the climbing goes!

Jamming Dodger - I imagine cycling miles in the heat this week must have been tough? How did you get on?

AlanLittle -love your description of the near mortal insult I’m seeing a few places where the training has gone a bit more Kaly-specific - nice one

hms - hot days in the sun are just exhausting, but you seemed to cope far better than me! Any more progress on routes or circuits this week?

Dandan82 - like the variety of the fc600 goals

the sheep - traffic is always easier when England play Lucky finding the computer again, bet that was a relief

Ally Smith - did you get back up there this week? Is the plan to focus there, or to finish other unfinished business elsewhere over the summer too?

biscuit - good luck! What’s the stats on the Marmotte - I know it’s big but not quite how big?

Tyler - canoeing on the Wye is fun isn’t it, I did a trip the Sunday of a stag do once which was fun although slightly more combative than relaxing! Somehow I hadn’t clocked that you’d spent that much time on the project already this year, I guess a day here and a day there and it all adds up.

Ardo - how was the week - get back into more activity?

Tom Green - what are the Q3 goals then, do you know yet?

Climbthatpitch - somehow barefoot climbing has never appealed. I get enough grief from my feet walking across rough ground!

Richard Popp - yes sidepulls crimps and slippery feet reminds me of somewhere near to you as well!!! Any more progress on it?

MauraLorrissey - sounds like a solid week. Does your wall do colour circuits then? What’s next after a Red?

Bones - debauchery is great isn’t it! 3kg weight loss has got to be good for something, as long as it isn’t through losing an arm or something like that

Guy127917 - enjoy the bugs!

mattrm - an even weight after a week in Cornwall is an excellent result regardless of anything else. Those cream teas.....

Rebecca Ting - I need to do a Yat trip again - Yongoma and Hear of Oak and the E2 on the back of the pinnacle always appealed. If you’ve not done it I remember the hvs on the back of the pinnacle (orange sunshine?) being a great route, and not too far from Piggy as a warmup...

 

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS, some E2/3, 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (1/1)

Dandan82 - 600s handstand, +60kg pull-up, 6 fr7 onsights in a day

Richard Popp - a new 7a

In reply to AJM:

Sounds like a great weekend. I'll kick off now as I suspect I won't have much time tomorrow.

M - cycle commute. TRX Is Ys Ts. Yoga.

T - cycle commute. Benchmarking FB session. 1 hand 5 sec hang needed 8kg assist for LH & RH, so a smidge more assist than last time I tried but apparently I am a smidge heavier too - a whole extra 1kg (of muscle, honest)

W - cycle commute. Wyndcliffe Quarry in evening. Couple of goes on a fingery 7a+ but sequence needs more work. Slightly shorter session than hoped for as husband had a rather unhappy time on the route he was trying and was a bit demoralised.

T - day swap so was at home. Bimbled around doing gardening. Got stung by something right on the end of my elbow, which then swelled up and was painful for the next 2 days. Core session. Rehab whilst watching telly in the evening.

F - cycle commute. Utter day from hell at work so totally unmotivated to do anything else at all.

S - Benchmarking FB session. 1 hand 5 sec hang needed 8kg assist for LH but only 6.5kg for RH. Then did 7/3/6/1 x10 on 18mm with 6kg assist.

S - cycled to Sea Mills railway arches to try out the boulder traverse. Spent about 90mins playing. It is fingery and pretty darn hard - think it's reckoned to be font 7a for the whole traverse. A bit nervous about going too high even though the landing is totally flat cinder. Had one unexpected dismount that handed me hard on my arse after a hold detached. Should be an excellent training facility as it climbs like real rock, but need to get familiarity so it starts to flow. In evening did FB 7/3/6/1 x12 on deep slots with +5kg which gave a good workout.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.

VSTG (June):

The Mentalist (tick)

STG (July-August):

3x7B/+s in North Wales

Ancap training in the week (x2 sessions)

MTGs (September-November):

Caviar 

Powerband (stretch goal...) 

LTGs:

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 

No goals for this week after doing the Mentalist so decided to look at some new crags.

M:  rest

T: Up early and did a max hang session. 3 hangs per arm with (BW-9)kg on 4 finger half crimp and front 3 drag, all 20mm bm edge. In the evening, went to try some slopy yellows and blues at The Climbing Unit, but gave up after an hour, it was just too hot.

W:  rest

T: Two arm max hangs. On the lattice edge with 85% of max, ie bw+25kg. Supposed to be 10 second hangs but I was doing 7-8 seconds by mistake so it didn't feel that hard.

F: rest

S:  rest

S: Morning session on two new crags/problems, Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale and Hannibal at Tom's Roof. Both felt pretty desperate but it was nice to try some new hard moves and two new crags. Sheep Shifter was way too hot as I was in the sun when sat below it, which I think knackered me out. Keen to go back to both of these in future.

Planning to start some fingerboard ancap training this week unless the Lattice results change my mind. Still no feedback yet but apparently it should be with me in the next couple of days.  Will need to watch my tendons as this sort of training (high intensity with less rest than a max hang session) seems to get them more than anything else. I've had no pain this week, which is obviously promising.

Hoping to get my first daytrip of the summer to do a short bit of bouldering in N Wales next weekend.

Took the family for a walk through Chee Dale this afternoon, everything is the dryest I've ever seen it. Got some major psyche to try Nemesis...I can't justify enough time away to get on a roped project at the moment though.

Si

P.S. In the last fortnight I've started using the beta Crimpd app, which as well as keeping a training record, is a really useful resource if only to see where Lattice recommend slightly different exercises than I'd expected for certain types of training/energy systems.

Thanks!

It often doesn't feel that way. Generally I have less energy and fewer really good sessions than I used to I think, and it's very rare I can climb for more than about 3-4 hours at a time before it's time to go home. However, I'm managing to keep up a reasonable training volume and seem to have done better this year at ''sealing the deal" on my projects - ie, getting both myself and them in condition at the right time. Also, taking two months off the rock and getting my fingers stronger over Christmas really helped. Before that I had been in a real post-becoming-a-Dad rut because I could really feel the extra weight I'd put on since Sol was born (I'm still 8 lbs heavier than when I did Free Monster and Paint it Black!) and was climbing badly.

In reply to AJM:

A good week. I could certainly have a decent claim on 2/2

Monday - Morning fingerboard session. A bit more progress on the pockets

Tuesday - Lulworth. Turned up with my main idea being to get my head in, do some old favourites and then try to give some things a go and take a few medium sized falls to get my head in gear. Anyway, in the end I ran into 2 guys who were psyched to get on Gates of Greyskull (7b+). I had the most token of goes on this last year - I jumped off a bit spooked from the last move where you’re vaguely above the start ledge - so it was high on my project list for this year. Conditions were mint. First go I cruised through the start and got decently out above the water, and fell in from not really getting one of the holds right and being unable to move on it. Second go I pushed on past that section another 3-4 moves, and jumped off in the end having ground to a half a little bit and got a bit ledge-syndromed on the jug I was hanging on. Still my biggest DwS splashdown to date and it was fine. Maybe half a dozen more moves to the holds at the lip, something like that. Some big air potential from the top though! It’s so good. Biffo jugs and bonkers steep. I was thinking through and of the 7b+s I’ve done or tried in the uk it’s definitely in the top handful so far. It’d be a faff but it’d even be worth doing on a rope for those who don’t like the water... project psyche is strong for this one. Something to get my teeth into.

thursday - just too hot

friday - a quick trx session and some shoulder pressing before a long hot and fractious drive to Gower. Playing on the beach with the little one came some way to rescuing the day, but it was still a pain in the ass.

saturday - Lewes Castle. Led Lazy Sunday Afternoon (E2 5b) Which felt fine, spectacular position but fairly ok. Sat around in the sun for a bit then seconded Errant (E2 5c) which was greasy, tricky, and I climbed badly, but just about dragged myself up.

sunday - managed to squeeze in the tricky hvs of South West Diedre (HVS 5a) with MrsAJM (a rare treat courtesy of Ben) before it started dripping, and then full on raining, leaving me soaked to the skin when I arrived back at the car park.

great session Tuesday and a great weekend out. Psyched for the coming week - hopefully more DWS during the week and out at weekend again hopefully with some splashdowns involved...

In reply to Si dH:

i should probably give it another go really. I tried it a while back and found that it was a bit of a faff to log a session for a day other than the current day (I’m disorganised) and it didn’t seem to have much functionality for freeform stuff (ie you could log one of their given sessions, but I couldn’t seem to make it do anything else - particularly since i Kind of wanted to have say outdoor bouldering show up in the overall balance section as strength training to give me an accurate picture of all my climbing spread by types...).

In reply to AJM:

Yes, lack of flexibility is still a fair criticism (the other aspect to that is that weight increments for hanging are only available in +/-2.5kg.) So it's not perfect, but hopefully they'll improve it further with feedback. Since I'm not a paying customer I didn't want to be too critical: it's definitely very good as a free resource.

In reply to AJM:

STG: At least one decent weekend sport climbing weekend in July

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Strength phase (emphasis, not exclusive) of the Hörst 4-3-2-1 cycle, week 2 of 3.

___________________________________________

M: Bike one hour, 15 minutes shoulder mobility

T: So ... today's plan was to try to sneak in an extra session by doing the following:     Morning before work: max hangs     Evening: Boulderwelt with my son, focusing on burly non-fingery problems (having done max hangs in the morning)      This was a near total failure. Eventually managed to find one problem to work on involving slopy blobs with no finger strength requirement whatsoever. And a shoulder bar. Kaly tufa training!

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not a strong session - unsurprisingly given yesterday's failed experiment - but continued the focus on getting my head sorted on steep jug hauling.

T: Rest day. Quarter of an hour shoulder p/rehab

F: Squeezed in a few (rather weak) sets of max hangs whilst digging out & packing gear for ...

S-S: Family hike & bivvy, Wetterstein with my son & some friends

S: Evening on returning home. Max hangs. Another weak session. So far, my Hörst 4-3-2-1 strength mini-cycle peaked in its first session and is going steadily downhill. Oops.  

In reply to AJM:

Also, June is over so time for a mid-year review. 

The year so far has been a complete write-off in terms of my sport climbing goals for a variety of reasons: family commitments, illness, partner woes. Ticking my first 7A boulder was a nice consolation prize though, and an important step forward given that strength is the foundation of everything. "If you can't do the moves there's nothing to endure" etc.

And I am not despondent - surprisingly, given that I am given to despondency if I don't keep a close eye on myself. I feel that my training is working, and can confirm that by looking at my log (as long as I skip over the last two weeks' fingerboard sessions!) I am taking steps to address the partners issue, and at some point it will all come together.

Apropos partners: am visiting family in .uk in the first half of August, will have a few days free of family commitments & would be keen to get some climbing in if anybody's interested. Family in Norfolk & Manchester so Peak would be easiest but could also go elsewhere.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, for those that have the access and the inclination, some kind of Dave McLeod-style, multi-discipline 24/6 challenge could be good?

Still on the subject of FC600 goals, I need to change my 600 seconds of handstands to 3600 seconds (60 minutes) of handstands! I had 3 little sessions this week and accrued 152 seconds of handstanding, (which admittedly is every attempt counted even if it's only 1 second) so i'll cruise past 600 seconds sometime in the next fortnight. It's not a challenge if it's not challenging, right?

M: Tried a little bit of core work to see if it eased my back, found out what does and doesn't irritate the back (which was almost opposite to what I imagined) but no real breakthrough or easing.

T: Back still causing me issues so I went to see Huffy the uber-physio. He's not concerned, thinks it's a very long term minor issue that has flared up, given me some exercises (including a nerve glide that may help the permanently tight nerves in my calves) and some do's and don'ts which have made me feel much better about things. Sacked off climbing session just in case.

W: Back feeling better, did some handstands and ticked off the longest-standing STG in history, I DID A 30 SECOND HANDSTAND!! Super chuffed with this, video evidence shows a nice straight back too. Now to repeat it...

T: Gym; bench 4 x 6 at 65kg, shoulder press 4 x 6 at 40kg all felt reasonable, decided against squat or deadlift quite yet.
Indoor Boulder; slab session, so high steps, traverses, one hand, no hands, all that fun stuff. Also a few heel and toe hook problems on steeper ground.

F: Nothing, spent the day running errands trying to get car sorted for potential buyer who never turned up, bah.

S: Portland, super early session to the west coast before it turned into an oven, we were climbing by 9 but still got beaten by some early birds.
Couple of warm up's then accidentally onsighted Sanfte Kuss (7a+) when I thought I was retro-flashing Is Vic There? (7a), no wonder it didn't seem familiar. A pleasing thing occurred on this route, the crux is small crimps on vert and I was able to just crimp down onto the holds and forget about them, no significant effort, no feeling of grip loosening, it was really encouraging. 
I then followed through on my original intention to repeat Is Vic There, then had a quick go on Popeye Doyle (7c) which I had dismissed previously as it shares a rubbish dusty start with French Connection UK (7b+) and the top of FCUK is baffling in it's blankness. Turns out Popeye is much better than expected, some good powerful moves in the roof and then distinct moves through tiny crimps on the headwall, not contrived, not eliminate, no thrutchy smearing, no off-balance slaps, it was great, one to head back for.

S: Nothing much, DIY club, rushing around buying cheap cross trainers off facebook (for Mrs Dandan), couple more handstands.

60 minutes of handstanding - 152/3600 seconds
+60kg pull up - +50kg
6 onsights 7a or higher in a day (in Kaly) - 

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - TICK
* At least 1 core session - TICK
* 30 second handstand - !!!TICK!!!

STG: (this week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day -
* At least 1 core session - 
* Another 30 second handstand! - 

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row
* Squat and Deadlift 100kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 86/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 3/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - August with Ally?
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Much appreciated. 

Marmotte is 180km and 5000m of ascent. Croix de fer, Telegraph, Galibier and Alpe d’huez to finish for those who know the cols.

We did a 100 miler with 4000m advent last Monday. It was hard as expected and that’s the last long ride now. We’re keeping going on the cols and having a few rest days prior to the race itself. 

Rest days so far have consisted of things like multi pitch climbing In Ailefroide. Not actually that restful and we’re both feeling stronger but tired now. One last col this week then rest. 

Climbing has been great but at a very low level. Ailefroide was great and I’d love to go back with more energy and get on the steeper stuff. Some of the multi pitch routes we’ve done locally have been low grade 3 star ones. Worth seeking out. 

My lead head is also not in a good place. I shouted take (twice) the other day on a 6b+ slabby top out. 

The race is next Sunday so one more col this week (Alpe d’huez) and two days climbing then put our feet up. 

Ive managed a 5 sec handstand and am dreaming of a 30sec one so well done Dandan. But as I was using my van for support a week and a half ago I’ll take the progress. 

In reply to AJM:

Morning la!

FC600 goals - flesh out a solid pyramid of ticks.

8b/+ x2

8a/+ x5

7b-c+ x10

Not settled on a plan yet - there are still things I want to do in the roof, e.g. make the 2nd ascent of Guns in the Sky (8b+) but I haven't actually got around to going back to Kilnsey. Should be heading there Saturday...

Week 26

M – Keeping the shoulders guessing – hit them with another rings session. OHP & light DL too.

T – Beautiful shoulder & pec ache. Lunchtime biking; 24km/55min.

W – Cheedale Cornice. Just scraped up the 7a warm-up with mis-remembered beta! Dogged then sent The Jug Jockey (7c+). Tried the RH variant, Easy Rider (8a). Failed OS deteriorated into a knackered dog, but surprised myself by getting very close on the no-expectation RP; getting through the crux but failing to stand up around the roof when I lost a foothold in the twilight. 

T – Loving the rings at the moment – they taunt me every time I go in the garage. Definitely getting stronger – recovering quicker from each beasting. Evening session; 3 sets of light deadlift, OHP, Ys, Is, Ts.

F – FB – 10s max hangs. Progressive, then 3x 30kg on Lattice edge. Then BM2K pockets; +15kg middle-2, +20kg front-2 and + 15kg back-2, each twice.

S – Gardening and DIY club.

S – 24km MTB in the sun – scorchio - I now have the best tan lines ever.

In reply to Ally Smith:

those little circular tan spots on the back of your hands from the gloves perhaps?!

In reply to AJM:

Cheers, yes very relieved to find it. Had another good weeks training, got lots of training in

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim. Bringing up 100 km in the pool so far this year

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim, starting some sets off with a 400m sprint now to get the body used to swimming that distance at pace in prep for the tri

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim, 23km ride home and out for a gentle 4k run

Thursday, 1.5km swim and stretch class

Friday, 6.5km lunchtime run and 1.5km swim and 16km ride home

Saturday, brick session. 20km cycle at pace, got so close to the magic 30kph average speed. 29.5! However did get a nasty speed wobble on a downhill that was scary. Anyway quick transition and out for a 7.5km trail run. This was in the afternoon so very hot too

Sunday, gentle 7km trail run in the afternoon, felt empty by the end of it!

In reply to AJM:

Hi All. Thanks AJM, the statting is especially appreciated when it follows a weekend away climbing -it must be the last thing you want to do!

I'm back to the real world now, after a great three week road trip.

Hopefully this means back to training consistency, but it also means chasing a bit more work than usual, so we'll see how it balances out over the next few weeks!

Last Week:

A few too many 'rest' days (long driving days and lots of touristing!) mean the week was unsurprisingly mediocre from a training view, but sod it... I was on holiday!

M: Hill walk, medium weight back, 12km, 750m vert gain, easy Z1.

T: Rest.

W: Shoulder prehab.

T: Rest.

F: Road run, 8.5km, 6:00 min/km average, easy Z1.

S: Core. Drank too much.

S: Rest.

 

Next Week:

Training now needs to be geared up to consolidating hill fitness for Kyrgyzstan in four weeks. Focus on legs (sadly at the expense of rock climbing time).

5 hours Z1, including 3 hour hill run

2 Strength sessions: leg focus

2 Core sessions

1 Climbing session (lowest priority)

 

STG/Q3:

El Cap Nose Day (880m of climbing in a day)

Keep knees injury free

New routes in Kyrgyzstan

MTG/Q4:

Start new TFTNA cycle.

Jaz (D8)

North Face Original Route (ED1)

LTG/Q1:

Scottish VII

Multiple ED in Cham

BHAG:

Le Coeur (f7A)

Renaissance (E5 6a)

West Ridge (ED1 6b)

Centurion (Winter) (VIII 8)

The Colton-Brooks (ED2 5)

In reply to AJM:

The heat last week (and forecast for this week) was ridiculous. Cycling to work was ok but riding home was like riding in a sauna. Still, all good miles in the legs. Rode Monday to Friday so 130 sweaty miles. I’m enjoying my new job so commuting doesn’t feel as much of a chore. Gymnastics on Tuesday eve. The splits are getting easy now but my ageing corpse has to stretch and roller every day to maintain it and I am struggling with maintaining free handstands of any sort and that aerial is a long way off. Still, all good fun. I think I need to up the sessions to two a week. Lack of confidence with some of the stuff was holding me back a bit but it’s feeling more natural now.

Nothing at the weekend apart from the pub, dog walks, fitting van curtains and a little festival in Totty. It killed an afternoon. But Factor 50 and a hat slapped on every day. Getting sunburn is not part of the plan.

At the weekend I was MEANT to be going to see an old climbing buddy near Lancaster and going to Trowbarrow (never been, his suggestion) but my van needs a new radiator and air con condenser... Stone damage. Dammit. Just as well really as both us and the dogs would have suffered in the heat. Bad luck but it’s being repaired this week hopefully in time for the weekend of worry free, ice cold van use.

Havent ordered a new bike yet. Will wait until the end of the summer now. 

So this week will probably look a lot like last week but with less booze at the weekend Only half a stone to my “old” weight but I’m not slacking off and drinking won’t help. Funny but I find being single keeps my mind in the “healthy” zone. So I may as well stay that way. Just the way my mind works I suppose. 

All in all, i feel like I’m getting back to my old self, so that’s great. All positive. Apart from the van. 

Hope everyone is making the most of the heatwave. 

In reply to AJM:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (1lbs loss)

DIY Club warning!

M - Lots of small jobs, painting, varnishing and putting up tool holders

T - Fixed rotten bottom of front door frame.

W - F - Rest

S - Climbing at Fall Bay

Spent the week doing nice family stuff as we're both off work at the moment.  Lots of mooching.  Two full days of DIY and cleaning.  The first day was just small jobs, cleaning, painting, varnishing and the like.  I also put up a wall's worth of tool holders for shovels, forks and other such gardening implements.  The second day was a bit more involved as I cut out the bottom of the rotten front door frame and replaced that.  Then we spent the rest of the week mooching and doing family stuff.  Sunday was the second week in a row that I was out climbing with Rebecca and Ben.  Also Mr and Mrs AJM as well as miniAJM were there, which was lovely.  It was great to see everyone.

My climbing performance was less lovely.  I really thought I'd manage ok on a HVS on a crag that I've climbed a lot on so know the style.  I didn't.  Fell off the start and had to rest on the rope to get the gear out.  Fell off the slab/corner area a few times.  Think I sort of managed the first overhang clean.  But by this point I'd nearly got a full body pump.  I'd forgotten about calf pump!  My mouth was utterly dry and I was drenched.  Nearly knocked my lid off by catching the head cradle on the rope.  Rested for a while before the traverse.  Started to move out on that and my hands just uncurled.  Which left me on a bit of rock between Isis and Horus, which isn't really anything much.  Apart from a bit blank.  However after a lot of resting and udging I managed to dodge the loose block and get back to the final overhang.  Which again I fell off on.  I then managed to make the full range of grunts as I floundered up the 'ladder of jugs' to beach my blimpy, whale-like body over the top.  It can't have been a fun belay for poor Rebecca.  On the plus side, I tested most of the cams and they were all bomber.  After that we got rained off and I went for a swim, before taking two hours to drive home in the post-Swansea airshow traffic.

Looking forward to seeing everyone again in Dorset this coming weekend.  I expect to get rather wet trying out this DWS malarky.  But there's a safe HVS traverse, the Maypole which looks ok.

AJM - that Yat climb you mentioned was Orange Wall (HVS 5a) which we did a few years ago.  It was amazing, very highly recommended.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for stepping in Andy.

 

Not so much glutton for punishment but a need to do the best/most I could. Nothing has gone to plan since April and it's still going all astray if I'm honest. Thankfully, should be in Swizzy this time next week barring mishaps, I've still not booked a ferry as my sister is in a mental health unit not too well again and I need to go and see my parents before also.

So...

Mon - Thu.  At least 12hrs a day at work in this stupid heat, so the best I could manage was physio shizzle and some stretching and massage. Saw a folk band on Thu evening, Prodigy covers etc, and it was a very late night...

Fri - Slow day at work meant a late finish when the day got going.

Sat - Autobelay. It was stupid hot at the top of the wall, so stuck to 20min on at a time and drank lots of water. Foot okay, arms a little tight for the first two sets due to work related exercise. 1.5hr of climbing roughly, then stretching to finish.

Sun - Shoulder and neck massage. 

 

So on Saturday it was Paul's wedding and I happened to find a boat to live in not too far from where I am now, I had to make the most of Saturday morning rainbowing about on the autobelay. Started dismally in my head but after a couple of runs climbing up and down, it started to feel better. Should get another couple of sessions in this week.

The boat was a completely unexpected complication I didn't have the time to sort if I'm honest, however, I needed to find a place of my own sooner than later. That took up most of Saturday arvo and Sunday. I guess I can at least head to Swizzy knowing I have a home of my own when I get back. I climb much better when I'm clear headed. Whilst it's an expense initially, it means cheap living long term. £1700 per annum for moorings, insurance and river license, plus whatever gas and electric I use. After the vans, it's a palace! Oven, hot water, shower... I've never even had cold running water in a van before despite living in them fulltime. About the only thing that bothers me is the slight lack of insulation but I can sort that as I go and I also need to fit a woodburner and solar at some point.

 

At this point I wish the last few months had been different training wise but they weren't, at least I'm not injured now and when I get the next week out of the way, life will feel very much back on track.

In reply to AJM:

Mostly it's been in the evening, I've been going instead of going to the wall, in fact I've only climbed indoors twice since mid April. If I was a better trainer I should probably go indoors but I think I try harder outdoors, besides it's been a real treat to spend so much time at a brilliant, often deserted, crag. 

This week I did actually climb indoors on Monday as I needed to blow the cobwebs away after two days canoeing. Stayed an hour and a half and he best that can be said is if didn't ruin my skin.

Wednesday - 3x RP, reached my highpoint once.

Saturday - Reached highpoint twice

Sunday - shifting rocks . Worst.Rest-day.Ever

This week I'm climbing Tue, Wed and Sat before I go on holiday and I throw in the towel (maybe)

In reply to mrchewy:

Sorry to hear about your sister, hope there's a good resolution and soon.

Well done on the boat, sounds idyllic although I'm probably too messy to live in one. Have you bought it or renting?

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. Yes they have stupid grading at my gym. All routes (T/R, lead & boulder problems are colour graded starting with blue then purple, green, red, black, white and orange routes will have a dyno move. Red/black roped routes tend to be Aus grade 20/6a+ and above. And annoyingly, boulder routes have no grade. 

I've had a big week, with my brother having a child and I am currently dog sitting in their flat. I also purchased my first ever home and I move on Friday. So there is a look to think about/pack etc. 

So... I've put pull ups on the back-burner till I settle in. Looking forward to drill Beastmaker holes in my own walls!

STG/Weekly:

*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives)/new goal x2 sets of 3x3 chins or pulls ups each week as minimum - on hold... to much going on to focus on it. 
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - two sessions

??MTG:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by end July
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by end July

??LTG:
* lead The Most Monstrous Monster (21)  https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/glasshouse-mountains/tibrogargan...
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-roa...
*climb a big wall before I'm 40 

Monday: 

AM: full hour session learning how to dead-lift properly. Got a PB - 82.5kg max (1) dead-lift. 

Tuesday:

AM: Mt Coot-tha hike - 5.4km

PM: lead session - tried the 20 again.. fell of twice this time. Can totally do it and not let my head get in the way. 

Wednesday:

AM: recovery week - upper body isolation exercises / various core exercises

PM: lead session - tried the orange/dyno 20 again.. smashed it. 

Thursday:

AM: recovery week - mobility movements / core exercises

Friday:

rest/walk home 

Saturday & Sunday 

rest

 

In reply to Tyler:

Thanks - she's in a safe place at least, 24hr watch. There's not a lot more they can do. Hopefully she'll be given ECT again as that seems to stabilise her.

I bought the boat, managed to get it for 7200 notes, they go for about 13k usually and it's pretty original with a new engine last year. The owner moves to Antigua I think next month, so he wanted a quick sale. It's a 24ft cruiser, so yeah, keeping tidy is a necessity! 

Hi Andy,

Yes I've climbed all these problems many times before, however never done them all in the same session. 

Tuesday: Warmed up at the wall and then climbed 2 of the v3-5 circuit. Beastmaker max hangs on the slopers , 5 attempts in total. Finished with 3 sets of the usual exercises and magic stretch.

Friday: @ the wall. Aim was to climb 2 problems in each circuit and then go up to the next circuit when completed. V2-3, v3-4, v3-5, and 1 (nearly 2!) of the v4-6 circuit. I was pleased the hardest problem i did climb felt v6. 

Sunday:the usual exercises , which are,

3 sets of push ups 20 reps

3 sets of sit up 20 reps

3 sets of leg raises 10 reps

3 sets of eccentric wrist curls 10 reps

 

In reply to AJM:

Adrian's cancelled the coaching holiday in Kalymnos this year due to lack of interest, which was a shame. Decided not to head out myself and save the holiday time for something yet to be decided.

A quiet week in preparation for heading out to Chamonix.

Tue - Managed to persuade some climbing partners to head up to  Shining Clough. The North facing crag is in superb condition at the moment. Climbed the excellent Pisa Super Direct (HVS 5a), a 20m gritstone jugfest.

Wed
 - Yoga
 - Hope Wakes Fell race. Pretty much similar time as previous - but not surprising as training hasn't really been consistent. Keen to find a race to do in Sept that I can properly train for.

Fri - Yoga

Sat - Fly to Chamonix

STG

 - Some alpine routes in the Alps. At least one long classic- current possibilities are
Charmoz-Grépon Traverse (D+ 6b)
Grands Montets Ridge (D+)
Innominata Ridge (D+)

MTG

 - Fell race in Sept. Achieve top 25%

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs

The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+)
Banana Finger (f6A)

LTG

- Ama Dablam possibly end 2018
- US/Canada trip in Winter 2018

BHAG

London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

In reply to AJM:

Hey AJM,

Bit of training and gym, bit of climbing, bit of eating and drinking, with too much work and flat admin, but c’est la vie. Happy to have motivated myself enough to go training, climbing and the gym, when this weather screams pub beer garden!

•Mo: General walking, 7.9m
•Tu: Commuting walk, 8.3m
•We: General walking, 6.8m. 10 problems. 3 x 12 s max hangs x 3.
•Th: General walking, 6.8m
•Fr: General walking, 8.0m
•Sa: General walking, 7.7m. 5 sport routes, (6b)
•Su: General walking, 8.3m. Gym: w/u, core, row, workout

• weight 10st, 7/16.0%

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for doing the stats.

This week: a couple of productive wall sessions. I have a strong and positive indoor crew at the moment and it's having an effect on my bouldering

Portland at the weekend. Lazy but ace day on Wallsend Saturday, pottering at the Cuttings Sunday. All of the sunshine.

Bit directionless climbing-wise for the last year or so. Life has been pretty chaotic and it has seemed easier to keep doing what I'm doing rather than stopping to think. But I finally have some mental space and a desire to take stock.

Goals this week: 4 more problems from the last 2 resets (9 left in total)/Make a list of ideas/Climb a thing at the weekend (Sang Chaud?)

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM

Just a quick post from me. Took a rest week to spend time with the family. Ended up drinking way to many beers most nights sat in the garden 

M - T - rest

Friday evening started drive to cham

S - finished driving to chat. Went to a sport crag 

S - Traversée des Crochues (PD+ 4a)

 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, crimpy goodness, its what I want.

Poor week, lot of disruption due to elderly father being taken into hospital and the heat at the wall.

Cant quite remember the sequence of events but-

1 visit to TCA-some progress on circuit can do all the moves in isolation but linking two sequences proving hard-a little dab on the wall helps but a way off. Very hot and slippery, also heat v energy sapping.

1 good fingerboard session-weighted five second hangs/ten second rest times 6-four finger crimp and 3 finger open times five. Felt strong. Can hang all the crimps on Beastmaker 2000 now.

Next day went to Sally in Woods-felt tough after previous day and long drive to hospital. Managed a traverse which is meant to be f6c+.

One short visit to Cheddar with new partner which is nice-only three routes-romped up 6b.

Normal rehab/strength stuff.

Met a Bowen therapist for a session as my hip has been giving me quite severe pain on and off since accident-slowly longer periods between pain but not really going away-definitely helped-its my ITB, which I had heard of but never really understood so I can now be seen regularly bent at various angles through out the day-think this may be the answer.

 

So not so bad in hindsight, just feel like I am rushing things at the minute.

 

Rich

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy Happy Sunday!

Yes, such an awesome climb. Great end to the trip.

I am all very much intact and possibly 3kg heavier again now but haven't weighed myself since so still living the dream.

Had a good week bouldering last week and climbing on Portland at the weekend. Was quite happy working on some pretty hard routes (for me) but didn't feel too energetic in the blazing sunshine. But also.... I finally got my portland torment goal - European Flavour! It's only a 6b and I have done it many times on toprope but just didn't like a couple of moves on lead. Actually, the bit I was most worried about in the middle was fine but I hung around for about 10 minutes at the top wearing myself out! But then I did it, Finally! Thanks for being patient Cyan!

I am having a look at my goals this week as I haven't been very focused on anything much these last few months. I have had an incredibly sore shoulder this last week from cranking it quite hard at the weekend which reminded me yet again of the need to build in stretching and antagonistic muscle development to help correct imbalances. I'm working on my next post with some refreshed goals and motivation - one of which is a front lever. 

In reply to AJM:

good week - nothing M-F then weekend on the gower. 5xE numbers and an HVS and lots of stars. Some torrential rain. Good to see team AJM and Matt. 

In reply to AJM: Cheers Any etc Al. Posting from train on way to Padstow, one there going to walk to Falmouth, just over 200 miles I think. Really looking forward to it after hectic few weeks if hospitalsed father, now home and work. This is just a place holder.

Writing things down now but don't have it with me. No wall but been done Ng weighted respeaters, one short trip to Cheddar, very hot, found .6b+, got all the moves first time but annoyingly stepped on to off route block l, couple of good Bathfird bouldering sessions, felt stronger and focused.

Started walk with toe fungus, annoyingly reappeared, how do other people manage this?

Going to do core routine and have theraband, no rock boots though, carried them last time but never used them

See you all in a few weeks.