/ UKC Fit Club Week 621
Placeholder for now: Stats tomorrow when I'm sat at a desktop instead of a phone.
You'll have to forgive my lack of patience but it's either now or never for me.
Mon: felt tired , ran to the wall. Climbed v4 v5 and v6 ...ran home.
Wed: went to the wall climbed v6, 2x v5 ,4x v4. 3 sets of 20 push ups and sit ups, 3 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises.shoulder theraband routine
Sat: 6 max hangs on beastmaker, one hand on 45 other on 35 degree sloper with less and less nestle as I went on...12 pull ups on 45 degree sloper to finish.
Not a bad week for little old me!
Not a bad week. A few good sessions, some good aches.
Monday - rest
Tuesday - wall. I can't remember much of the detail, but it was a pretty decent session
Wednesday - rest
Thursday - fingerboard. Went for the micros again. Up to +5kg (81.5) for 6s on the 10mm. 8mm still inconsistent.
Friday - squeezed in a micro session around the in-laws being here - a few sets of pushups in varying grip positions, and a few 1-arm shoulder engages at bw-5 (72).
Saturday - gardening club. A fairly pleasant day. Took the hedge in our front garden down to about 5 foot (from maybe 8) and also narrowed it, with the intent of getting it to grow back a bit thinner and shorter.
Sunday - oof, some good aches, haven't used my sawing and lugging muscles recently! Out for lunch with the missus sans enfants which was nice. Currently doing a TRX and fingerboard session.
Have this weekend pencilled in for climbing so hoping to get something done! Also just need to keep things going as per this week really - Tuesday wall, Thursday fingerboard, weekend climbing, hopefully something else too.
Any one heading out to Brean, Avon or Wye Valley prepared to put up with me tagging along this coming weekend for some climbing? I have three days off and need to be in or near Reading on Sunday night. Striking distance of Cheltenham would be best but can get a bit further
> Sunday - oof, some good aches, haven't used my sawing and lugging muscles recently! Out for lunch with the missus sans enfants which was nice. Currently doing a TRX and fingerboard session.
A pretty good fingerboard session, as it goes. Not bad on the trx too.
Managed to get up to 87kg on the 10mm micros. 8mm still feel quite pingy but I can hang them for 5s or so at 78kg.
Also realised something - never really thought about it before so not sure if this is common/weird/what - but I'm more comfy on the 35 slopers on the BM2K with only half my fingers on them. To be more specific, if I put the edge of the hold at the PIP knuckle, I feel stronger (edit - for my reference 5s @87kg) if I get the whole hand on and have the edge of the hold at the base of my fingers. I guess bending at the PIP is more similar to other grip types, but it's something I'd never really noticed before.
Anyone else the same, or is this just the nearest a poor limestone climber can get to crimping a sloper and just shows my background!
> > Sunday - oof, some good aches, haven't used my sawing and lugging muscles recently! Out for lunch with the missus sans enfants which was nice. Currently doing a TRX and fingerboard session.
> A pretty good fingerboard session, as it goes. Not bad on the trx too.
> Managed to get up to 87kg on the 10mm micros. 8mm still feel quite pingy but I can hang them for 5s or so at 78kg.
> Also realised something - never really thought about it before so not sure if this is common/weird/what - but I'm more comfy on the 35 slopers on the BM2K with only half my fingers on them. To be more specific, if I put the edge of the hold at the PIP knuckle, I feel stronger (edit - for my reference 5s @87kg) if I get the whole hand on and have the edge of the hold at the base of my fingers. I guess bending at the PIP is more similar to other grip types, but it's something I'd never really noticed before.
> Anyone else the same, or is this just the nearest a poor limestone climber can get to crimping a sloper and just shows my background!
Same here re: the 35 sloper - I find it a lot easier with only half my fingers on as you describe. I suspect there is something to do with the way force is applied through the hand? And I suspect there is some extra assistance gained via the bottom edge.
Sorry for the delay, yesterday didn't offer me any opportunity to sit down and compose the stats.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_620-699940
Tyler - have fun in Budapest. Throwing your own line back at you; time to knuckle down now January is past and get some training in once you're home...
Alan Little - Great that you're setting down personal benchmarks before training. If your final scores are well down, you might benefit from some an-cap training. Something that will probably help with 'jura goals later int he year too?
Climbthatpitch - More consistency and good commitment to get out in the snow.
guy127917 - Another consistent performer. Did you balance out last weeks limit bouldering with some aerobic sessions this week?
AJM - already reported; did you sort out weekend plans yet?
Me - undignified indulgence is unbecoming (this applies to both excessive limestone cave climbing when grit is dry, and to beer/cake gluttony)
SFrancis - Good mix of strength and aerobic work in your week. Is this a planned training foundation? Aiming for peak performance (on rock) anytime soon? The last time I did continental ice was in the Ecrin - some much good stuff to do - sounds like you had a ball
the sheep - the metronome (Tyler's comment, but bears repeating, repeating, repeating...)
Cyan - Excellent use of medicinal whiskey to kill off the bugs. Stayed off the sauce this week?
Somerset Swede Basher - Definitely sounding fit!?! Laps on the 8a circuit this week? And have you been back and ticked off Fig. 8?
Ianstevens - at it every day. Did you do your "real climbing" instead of more fingerboarding this week?
alexm198 - Super couple of ticks on the Ben - did you head back this weekend or was everything a bit too melty to bother?
Tom Green - Excellent Z1'ing ;-) and some great ticks too. i hope your mate was okay after the gear popping fall?
Ardo - back training this week? Back fixed up?
biscuit - UK ski ticks are a rare beast! Is the shoulder feeling better?
Powerduff - have you improved your diet and/or workife ratio this week?
Bones - missed you at Hackney Wick - how did the comp go? (Late finish & free bar corrupted my good intentions)
Rebecca Ting - any mid-week training, or just more weekend warrioring?
Sounds similar to how I engage on the 35 slopers too. More drag style than using the lumbrical muscles.
However, i can barely hang mine at the moment as the mounting flexes and has pushed the angle towards 40 degrees!
More undignified indulgence this week...
M – Evening indulgence - Parisella's cave. Felt strong warming up, then wrist went clicky and put Hatchatrocity off the menu. Tried Nightlife lots but never nailed the move over into Left Wall. Got thoroughly pissed off with myself for being crap and cemented in that feeling by falling off the crap BRB. At least I got a little pumped. Road closures made me even more grumpy on the way home.
T – “Rest”. 15min of HI barbell circuits, and then stretching in front of Netfilx.
W – Stronghold social boulder with colleagues and fellow fit clubbers. Got pumped on a 6b circuit! El Chorro routes could get interesting…
T – Very long day at work (0730 start, 1945 finish); indulging in the free bar after the meeting didn't really make up for it. Nor did I burn off the excesses with 30min of energetic dancing.
F – Nowt.
S – Nuda’s Tartan. The ticklist would make it look like I ripped the crag a new one, but the grades are all whack. e.g. the 8A link-up is probably 7C; the 7C+ = morpho 7B/+; 7C flash = ~7B; etc, etc. Still great to be out climbing with others and soaking up their beta. A few lines left to mop up, but the even comparing to the cave, the longest link-ups are illogical.
S – Shoulders feeling beasted. More DIY club. 25-30 miles, ish, road biking (Strava failure).
> the sheep - the metronome (Tyler's comment, but bears repeating, repeating, repeating...)
Cheers, again, again and again
Decided that it would be a good idea to incorporate some upper body weights work into my training regime to complement the swimming and help sprint pace. Was booked in with a trainer at the gym and we did a full set on Tuesday. My god, having not done any weights for a long time my arms were battered and had awful DOMs for the rest of the week. Going to build on this experience and take it slowly!! Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km lunchtime swim. Felt really good and gave it everything, knocked 54 seconds of my PB to come in spot on 34 minutes Gentle 5km run in the evening
Tuesday, the weights session! Followed by a 1km swim
Wednesday, 2km lunchtime swim and 22km ride home
Thursday, 1.5km lunchtime swim, 5km run in the evening helping out with the run groups couch to 5k group
Friday, 6.5km run
Saturday, 9km run
Sunday, 2km junior park run in the morning with my youngest and 8.5km trail run after the rains had stopped in the afternoon. Much muddy fun and games
STG - 14st
MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 8lbs
M - Dying
T - Still near death
W - Slightly better
T - Better
F - Better
S - Rest
S - Rest
Basically after looking after everyone for the weekend, I succumbed to the plague. Which meant the week and then weekend was a bit of a wash out. Here's to getting out a bit next week.
Right, after several months of injury, viral and mental unwellness I'm officially training properly. The physio has officially given me leave to climb as long as I'm careful, and keep up with my conditioning exercises. I finally feel like I can trust my right shoulder again.
Mon: couch to 5k week 3
Tues: climbing session, and a great one (I've put weight on and lost strength so 5s are hard again but it means I don't need to push difficulty for it to be a workout)
Thurs: couch to 5k week 3
Fri: should've been another climb but we had Banff festival tickets.
Sat: missed a run because of migraine
Sun: couple of miles walked whilst conducting recon of a potential new crag to take work friends, partly making up for the lack of Saturday run
> Tom Green - Excellent Z1'ing ;-) and some great ticks too. i hope your mate was okay after the gear popping fall? -shaken but not stirred!
Hi All, thanks for statting Ally.
A moderate week juggling work, bad back, sore knees and a soupcon of training.
Hit core and strength goals, climbing sesh goals but not Z1 goals (oh the shame!)
M: Rest (hobbling a bit with a bad back -embarrassingly sustained by trying to zip up the side zips on my salopettes last week! ignored it over the weekend but the drive down from Fort Bill seems to have riled it up)
T: Rest/bad back
W: Alpine start for a big work day.
T: Core and general strength session -good weight progressions.
F: Shoulder Prehab. Was supposed to get a hill run in but sore R knee -not sure why, possibly from upping the weights on the split squats?
S: Good drytooling sesh at White Goods. Although still cant get up Jaz. Sad times. Planned on an evening run, but knee still sore.
S: Core and general strength -skipped split squats and Turkish get ups to give the knee a break.
Week 7 Plan:
2 Core sessions.
2 General strength sessions
2 Z1 runs -not too worried about the length -just need to keep ticking over for Alps trip...
Drive to Alps.
3 Classic Alpine routes.
Average 300m vertical on weekly runs.
Lancs Aretes (666 goal)
6C in Font
Average 300m vert running per week
Cuillin ridge traverse
Lancs aretes (666 goal)
Average 300m vert running per week
Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, etc...
Thanks for stating Ally. Sadly work and weather has meant I've not had a session outside this week but hopefully get out again towards the back end of next week.
Tues. Tried to go to Stoney but the Peak wide mega clag meant that even minus 10 and toms were wet (actually dripping in Toms) so I went home and spent 1hr 15mins on my 66 degree board then 30mins of core after a break for dinner. Felt like it was a strong day so it was a shame Stoney was wet.
thurs. finger board repeaters. first in ages due to tweaky elbows, felt ok elbow wise but certainly noticed a drop in strength as only done fitness recently.
fri. tired from yesterday and lack of sleep (work and awake kids) but went to the works. couldn't repeat the 8a circuit or the 7c+ but did 3 laps of the 7c (though only because I've got it so wired!) also a lap of the 7b+, all 4 within 15mins. Did half the new v2/3 problem circuit too, about 20 problems.
sat. 15km on the mtb with the 2 stone wriggler on the back.
sun. first family trip to the wall. kids played on the kiddy thing at AW Sheffield and we took turns on the auto belay. I did 4 x 10mins of continuous climbing, 6b-7a on the ups and 5+ - 6a on the downs.
From Thursday this coming week I'll have done my mega pile of work and I've got the following week off so hopefully get stuck into a problem outside!
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60
Heavy week at work, sick child. Didn't make it to the wall until the weekend.
M: Yesterday: focus on long roof boulders. Today: ferocious lat & upper back doms. Excellent: should do more.
T: Office party after manning a stand at a long & tiring departmental open day.
W: Sick child. Max hangs.
T: Token half hour mobility & stretching
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Another long and tiring day at work at the end of a long & tiring week; would have bailed on the wall session if I'd been planning to boulder but didn't want to let my partner down. Turned out to be a surprisingly ok mileage session in the circumstances.
S: Immaculate spring weather; could have gone (real) bouldering if I hadn't been at the wall last night. Drat, poor planning. Went for a bike ride instead for some fresh air and a couple of hours of Z1.
S: Wall, Freimann. Bouldering, trying to keep it steep and definitely feeling some degree of ability to do plastic boulder moves coming back.
STG: get back to 6a indoors (5 on overhang) before my holiday to Germany at the end of March. Not difficult but I have to be careful to build my shoulder gradually
MTG: lead 5 VSs outdoors by Christmas 2019 (e.g. seamstress because I have unfinished business, equinox, one step, shadrach, the brothers)
LTG: lead a slate classic (TBC, hopefully comes the dervish*) by my 35th birthday in December 2021
*if it looks like CTD isn't going to happen by then I'll have a long hard look at whether waiting for the onsight means it'll never happen, and if I'm better just seconding it because at least I'll manage to do it in some form.
The plan is to just increase aerocapacity and strength during winter months, then I can incorporate a quick PE phase before a trip or goal.
Week 04/02 - 10/02
Tried to jump straight back in where I left off, and realised it wasn't happening.
Mo: A boulder and a few new routes. Felt tired, and weak. Finished with a TRX, 2 x 5 I,Y,T.
Tu: Rest, and an early night.
We: 10 min ARC and warm up. Max hangs 1/2 crimp - 98kg x5, had to drop the weight to 96kg as was failing at 7secs. Woody 10 problems 3 mins rest between, great to be back on this. TRX I,Ys and Ts 2 x 5, 3x3 pull ups +22kg, and 2 x 20 push ups.
Th: ~25min run (~5km), followed by a cardio work out at a frank carter gig.
Fr: Busy day at work.
Sa: 10 min ARC and warm up, 5 x max hangs 1/2 crimp 96kg, 4 x open 3 96kg, 10 woody problems 3 mins rest between, had a rest then did 1min on/off aero, TRX I,Y,Ts 3 x 5. 3x3 93kg pull ups and 2 x 20 pushups.
Su: Chilled climb indoors, o/s 2x 6a+, 6b, 6b+, and 6c.
Cheers Ally. Good effort with the stats.
Shoulder is definitely on the mend ta. Going to climb without tape today and see how it goes. I'm pleased with how quickly I've managed to rehab it as it felt pretty bad at the time.
I didn't get to ski last week and this weekend was planned for Scotland but the forecast looks dodgy. Will get to Chill Factore this week for sure.
Bike commute was done.
Climbed at the Depot - twice. I did the easier ones (up to 25 but didn't try 24) in what is a much easier set than last one. Went further/harder than I was planning but the shoulder felt good so why not. Second session was trying the harder ones - though I re-did most of the easier ones as well. Some progress made but certainly some shouldery moves that didn't cause it to react.
DQS and sleep targets were both hit. I seem to be sleeping well atm. No bad thing I guess. I may start some calorie counting just to see where i'm at and where I can do some work to get rid of winter chub prior to getting out again.
Climbing - Couple of bouldering sessions and the chance for a quick auto belay around coaching. One session may be the Plywood Masters at BUK if my shoulder is feeling like it will take it. I WILL do some aero work after each session.
Bike - none planned this week
Ski - Chill factore.
DQS - 20+ each day. 25+ 5 days
Sleep - 7.5 hrs every day. 8 hrs 4 days.
Physio - blast my shoulder as much as I can. I need to continue what i'm doing this next week or two with strengthening/stabilisation work and then move on to climbing specific stuff to finish off.
> Bones - missed you at Hackney Wick - how did the comp go? (Late finish & free bar corrupted my good intentions)
Yes, we heard that you had been delayed by a party. Very disappointing not to see you smash it at the comp! Made top three in the females this week so pretty happy (along with another fitclub poster who I won't name so they can tell everybody themselves - go team!). Was a great set and I really enjoyed it. I am quite strong at the moment but my power moves could definitely do with some work as I am not doing so well on 'big' moves.
I didn't climb until Thursday last week and then did a Saturday session back at Hackney Wick which was great. The grading there definitely seems tougher than at the Castle. Very almost did a really great V6 black. Sweaty fingers got the better of me on the last slimy, crimp move but felt really good on the small feet and crossover finger pockets.
Also, started running again on Saturday after a few weeks off. It was really nice to get outside and stretch my legs. Still not fully recovered from a cold and I felt quite ill for a while afterward with a bad headache, just need to get used to it again.
This week I have not been in London so I won't be climbing until Weds or Thurs but aim to get in a wave session and hopefully a trip away in the van this weekend.
Plus, as promised every single week, my front lever work.
Thanks for stat-ting Ally.
Mo thru Saturday: walking, stretching and trying to avoid pub/unhealthy food and temptation in general.
Su: General walking, 7.5 miles. 15 probs.
Stretching and walking to continue rest and avoid hampering back improvement. Went to the wall on Sunday for some light bouldering to test myself and went ok. Organise training plan, set targets and push on with rehab/hip investigation this week.
Still feeling wiped out from ?flu a couple of weeks ago. Off to Siurana Saturday but low expectations...
Wedns: Stronghold with Ally etc. Ran out of steam quickly.
Thurs: Wick comp. Third, which meant protein shake and prosecco amongst other things
Sat: Yoga. Brutal as ever. Such a good class. Token wall session then beers.
Sun: Wall. Routes. Bit shaky and scared. Weird when generally my head is pretty solid at the moment.
Cheers for the stats Ally.
> Ianstevens - at it every day. Did you do your "real climbing" instead of more fingerboarding this week?
That's just how I roll - I get bored of sitting around so tend to do something each day, even if its just yoga when I'm feeling tired. Variety of activity is helpful - running is a climbing rest day, and vice versa. Important caveat to this I guess is that I'm young-ish (28) and am used to large training volumes from ultrarunning in the past. Yes, I did actually go climbing last week - although on plastic as the weather wasn't onside.
STGs: 1) Max Hangs on the AA slot to 90.5kg (currently 88.3kg) by 24/2. 2) Get up any 7A boulder - been struggling with these across the board of late; 3) Complete all planned sessions for weeks up to the start of March (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs) (6/9) 4) Triple figures of points in the CWIF (in the 70s last year IIRC).
Didn't quite hit my finger strength goals - original deadline was 3/2 - so adjusted this to a) make it a bit harder, following a progression curve and b) the date. Gained loads in this area in the past couple of months though, admittedly from an appalling base.
MTG (April 2019): 1) Climb >10 7s (sport) by the end of April. Down to 70.5 kg (currently 72.3 kg, 7 day average)
LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a. 7.5 hours for the Snowdon Skyline race (Sept 2019).
Last Week (2017.6)
Good training week, excellent quality and loads of volume - just over 14 hours.
Mon: 1) Indoor limit boulders, <7A (the ones I spent the weekend contributing to setting).
Tuesday: 1) Yoga; 2) Run: 10x400m @ 76 seconds, 8.5km total; 3) Max Hangs, 6 x 10secs @ 80.8kg AA slot.
Wednesday: 1) Yoga; 2) Turbo trainer 1 hour 189W NP
Thursday: 1) Yoga; 2) Max hangs, 6 x 10secs @ 81.1kg AA slot; 3) "Hilly" tempo run, 16.7km, 381m
Friday: 1) Yoga; 2) Indoor limit boulders <7A; 3) Pull ups 5x5 +2kg
Saturday: 1) Yoga; 2) Turbo 50 mins 176W NP; 3) Limit boulders <7A; 3) Pull ups 5x5 +2kg, TRX IYTs 10x3, TRX Reverse IYTs 10x3
Sunday: 1) Yoga and actual rest (although did go for a stroll)
Next (this) week I'm around Sheffield for work so have got some bouldering in outside, and also hoping for some north-wales action at the weekend, which may even involve a rope!
> Tyler - have fun in Budapest.
I did! Can't recommend it enough, not sure whether that's because I had no real expectations before I went but even looked at objectively there's a lot to see and it all seemed pretty reasonably priced.
> Throwing your own line back at you; time to knuckle down now January is past and get some training in once you're home...
You're not wrong. I've not done one of these since before Christmas so time for my state of the union address. I've been ticking along on the climbing front visiting the wall pretty regularly but not in any structured way. I reached a new nadir on new year's day when I was unable to put my sock on. The hip is making me very immobile so it was time to do something about it. I did Sharkathon and things improved, all I did was squats press-ups and some lolling about on the floor trying to make my back move a bit. It's been good and I will keep it up, I can now get out of my car okish and have put my socks on standing up on occasion. A session jumping off the bouldering wall (which I now do despite the ankle) sets it back though so I might do less of that and get on the Moonboard, finger board and try and find somewhere to put up a pull up bar.
Diet has been predicable, I'm well nourished for the coming efforts!
Thanks for doing the stats Ally.
Just a quick one from me cause I'm about to go climbing and need to get the stats in.
M - rest
T - 10km run. Indoor climb
W - 10km. Indoor climb
T - 25km run
F - 6km run
S - 10km run
S - 11km run
I was supposed to be going to Scotland this weekend but due to conditions we have decide to come to the peak instead
Our Friday Night Video this week features Jenny Fisher and Kat Whipple in Liming, China. Both were drawn to each other by a mutual love of crack climbing and head to China with the aim of putting up new routes. The area has an abundance of dark red...