UKC

Welcome, everyone. I’m afraid that in a cruel bait-n-switch what you’ve got this week instead of Tom is me, since Tom had “kinda forgotten [he] was heading to Skye, Harris and Lewis so might struggle with comms “.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_639-706127

Posters:

AJM - made about 15 plans and succeeded at none of them!

Powderpuff - enjoying the beach by now, I suppose? Call it a deloading phase, or something, and it can still be training? In terms of a crap vs nonexistent session, there’s that saying somewhere that in every ten sessions you get 3 bad ones, 6 ok ones and 1 actually good one, which is a good reminder that rubbish sessions just happen sometimes. I find that useful at times (like this week!)

AlanLittle - my experiences would certainly suggest that grade comparisons between the frankenjura and other venues should be treated with a degree of caution - some things tie up, some just don’t! Have you made it back? I got recommended Grune holle, would be one for a return trip, which I keep saying I want to pull together. Good job on the stretching/mobility consistency too.

Somerset swede basher - that feeling of having sneaked something in you had no right to have managed is a great one! Solid indoor week - those core sessions are tough eh?

Tyler - any further with your German musings? It does sound like a week of halves, with a solid weekend rounding things off. How was this week?

mattrm - aside from weight, is scuba the other STG priority at the minute? I only ask because it looks a bit like you are sort of ticking over a bit, and wasn’t sure if (if you have them) vocalising other goals might help in terms of giving some direction/focus (linking to your observation about your diet - “received wisdom” would probably usually say that a weight based goal would be easier if you had an objective that you could visualise that required it rather than the goal just being the number on the scales itself)

Ally Smith - that’s a super hectic week! I feel like I’m behind the times, in that whilst I know in theory what blood flow restriction is I’d have no idea how to train it or why and what on earth compex twitching is all about! Good dedication to squeezing in that little bit extra on Thursday!

SFrancis - good day at shepherds, nice one. The rest of the week looks like pretty solid training - max hangs followed by a long boulder session in particular looks like a pretty hefty session!

Lornajkelly - nice one on the job! I can imagine that might have been a source of some pressure. 

Ianstevens - what do you do for your daily yoga? I often idly think that some sort of short daily hit of “something” would be good for me, and yoga seems to be a popular choice... fingerboard doesn’t sound bad - do I remember right that 100kg was a target a while back - was your 99 on the same hold - if so that’s only a marginal difference...

the sheep - how are the niggles? A departure from the usual regular reliable week of training for you?

Niall_li - takes a while to catch up sometimes doesn’t it - we definitely hit a bit of a catch-up wall after our trip to Spain too! Has Fairhead been kind yet? How have you been faring with the rings - I do like them for something a bit different.

jackob - how was the Lakes? Mixing things up a bit from Raindogs - did you get back on it this week, how’s it coming together?

Tom Green - I wish my climbing diary were so exciting I could forget about a trip to the Hebrides - hope you have a great time! Breathing improve this week? Must be a pain, having that to hold you back...

David Staples - did you manage to pull double time this week to make up for holiday? I saw on Dorset Climbing you were trying to get out today, but I didn’t manage to muster the enthusiasm. For good 7As, I can recommend Neil Armstrong, enjoyed that. The ones at Lulworth are very good too, near the Dragon.

Outdoors.nick - take the tick! Nice one. I know what you mean about the evenings, I feel like I’ve distinctly underused them so far.

Ardo - what sort of thing are you doing with the van? (We did a conversion a few years ago). Looks like a few decent sessions and a varied week in all...

biscuit - the anticipation is killing me - tell me about this week! Any ideas on the year of the climb yet?

Rebecca Ting - just stopping by, or restarting a regular trend?

Sums up my weekend, certainly.

Tuesday - went to the wall. A bit of a meh session - not actively terrible, but feeling pretty tired and didn’t achieve anything of note

Weekend..... well.......

Unfortunately my plan of paradise lost fell through early doors in the week since my partner for it sprained his wrist last weekend. I went through several rounds of different plans over the course of the week but ultimately the last one, which was a day trip to Cheddar to do regular bolt clipping, fell down in the face of increased and variable amounts of showers in the forecast that made me think it just wasn’t worth the drive. As it was, I had a headache all morning and had an hour and a half nap this afternoon, so in retrospect it wouldn’t probably have been that productive either. But still a bit disappointing to miss out on climbing in the sunshine, although we did do some nice family stuff instead so I can’t complain too hard.

Hoping for better luck this week. Whilst trying to find climbing partners who are tolerant of the family faff that comes with weekends away is an accepted part of the challenge, I feel like I’m struggling a lot to find ad hoc partners for days out here a fair amount too - I’ve got a circle of potential people but I don’t think I’m anyone’s first port of call so I don’t seem to have much luck trying to string things together at the last minute.

666 goals and progress:

- E5 onsight/flash (in my head I feel like I’m looking at E3s in the guide with a similar sort of level of confidence as in my golden year of 2013, when I did a fair few E3s and the odd E4. I don’t think I have the actual achievements to back that up yet, mind you, but at least the mental game is a bit more in place. Still some building from there mind you)

- DWS Mark of the Beast (/Privateer/Blue Planet) (seasons not really kicked off in earnest yet)

- Sport to support trad goals - some of Colours/Paradise Lost/Bird of Paradise/Troll Team Special/Ariana V/Stay Golden/Outside the Gate (ticked Troll Team, otherwise a reasonable haul of 7a/+ onsights/flash)

Well done stepping in Andy. I feel your pain on the partners thing - fortunately for me one of my regular partners, whose enthusiasm tends to ebb and flow rather a lot, is in an enthusiastic phase just now. 

Unfortunately for him though, my son's (equivalent of) GCSE exams start this week, so I'm on full time support duty and won't be getting out again for a couple of weeks. Time to put some proper effort into addressing the strength/power deficit.

STG: Frankenjura thugging project. Re-establish regular stretching habit.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60. This is looking increasingly unrealistic & needs a rethink.

M: Rest. Half hour stretching/mobility
T:    Too late at work to make it to my regular Tuesday evening routes session. Beastmaker max hangs at home instead.
W: Bike one hour.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Shockingly, laughably weak: things can only get better.
F: Bike two hours.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Better - getting re-acclimatised to the idea of actually pulling hard.
S: Wall, Weyarn. Morning autobelay aerobic mileage. 
 

UIAA IX, to swap one arbitrary number progression for another? 

I can't remember what grade Hitchhike is in UIAA, but I've still got the beta for that written down somewhere and it's more p-e rather than power bouldering, if that's any use...

Ha ha! Cheers Andy. Don't get too excited. I just had a great time climbing in the (mostly) sunny Lakes with lovely people. 

Mon - New Biggin bouldering inspired by it's closeness and the new Lakes Bouldering guide. Flashed up to 6C. Failed on a 6A+ (must be a mis-print) and couldn't get off the floor on a 6C+ (must be secret beta). Tried a 7A+ that looked cool but hard (basically 2 moves) as a possible project only to find out that the way i was doing it drops it to 6C and it's easy at 7A+ anyway. Looks like I've got a way to go to get strong again. Very pleasant evening but not a regular place to go to I don't think.

Tue - Trowbarrow - Red Wall traverse. Went from R to L with one foot down 2/3rds of the way along when I forgot my beta. Then did R to L half way after a rest. Messed about looking at beta to do the R-L-R but i'm not hugely psyched as I need to be getting on real routes.

Wed - coaching but didn't climb

Thur - Langdale. Seconded a HVS, led a new (ish) E2, looked like rain so we called it quits. Good call as it did rain.

Fri - Buttermere - High Crag - Led Philistine (harder than i remember) then led Samson (I think as I may have gone a bit off piste)  and tried an E3 on the left wall crag. Bottled it when the crack (and gear) ran out at half way and what I thought would be positive features on the head wall weren't. Had to ab in to get the gear. Though there was some hidden protection to be had near the top it was still v bold and too much for me.

Sat - Newlands - Grey Buttress - led a pitch of a lovely VS, Brandywine. Nice crag. Shame about the slog to get to it. Some nice routes to go back for one day though.

Sun - Borrowdale - Goat Crag - Led DDT. Had some faff abbing off, went to Keswick to shop, came home.

Quite tired now. More walking than climbing. But a cracking mini break.  What I learnt is that my head is OK, my fitness is OK  but my gear selection is terrible. It's sometimes taking me 3 or 4 goes to find the right sized protection, too often. Just out of practice I think. This is what is making me not feel confident to push on. I decided not to do Tumbleweed Connection today as it was top end E2 rather than just giving it a bash. Need more mileage.

The year of climbing (2020) is either going to be sport or trad based. Not sure which yet. Going to trad as much as I can this Summer (attempt Classic Rock in a weekend) and see if the psyche is there for that. Then train over Winter and either have a go at E5 onsight or a sport grade to be decided.

2021 is then year of the bike and 2022 is going hopefully going to be the year of going to Yosemite. Very excited about that! 

Thanks for picking up the batton AJM. A great start followed by a terrible finish for me this week.

Mon. Rest. 

Tues. After 4 sessions of middle 2 hangs now I thought I'd go try tumbleweed again and see if it had made a difference... And it had! From the sit, pulled straight through the 2 finger pocket move, up to the side pull crimp, felt good, layed one on for the jug which I hit and held but couldn't hold the swing. New high point and I believe I can do it now. It was like that scene in The Matrix, the one where Neo is fighting Morpheous and the crew crowd round and ask what's happening and Trinity says 'he's starting to believe!' At least that's what it was like in my head!

Wed. Rest. 

Thurs. Went for another go pretty convinced Id get it and tragedy struck, something went in my left ring finger noooooooooooooo. Still hurts 3 days later.

Fri-Sun. Upset stomach so didn't feel like doing much and it was small swede basher 3rd birthday party anyway so got stuck into that. 

Going to need to modify goals for the next couple of months I think, maybe so e sort of trad easy solo mileage mission or a massive scrambling link up or something. 

... and speaking of (a) partner woes and (b) out of practice nut fiddling: did the FitClub TradClub mailing list ever get going?

If so, sign me up. Will be over in the UK visiting family around end of July to mid August and looking to get out for a few days after depositing the offspring with doting aunts/uncles.

Yes, there’s a list - send me an email and I’ll add you...

Edit: I think I found it. Yhm, I hope

I also feel your pain r. e. partners. That's why I do a lot of bouldering as I don't have to expect anyone to fit in with my tight windows of opportunity. Although I get out often it's usually only for just over an hr on the way home from work. Embrace the boulders they are calling you! 

Pex Hill was an absolute godsend for me years ago when I used to commute between Manchester & Liverpool. 

Thanks Andy, it very much was.  Baseline anxiety has been through the roof so any slight annoyance or disappointment is instantly a crisis.  Brains, eh?

It's been another thin week for training but I clocked two runs (couch to 5k week 7) and a wall session on Sunday.  The wall consisted of pootling up lower-grade stuff, but having recently woken up from sleeping off a migraine (and the meds, which are powerful) I think going at all is a win.  

I'm also feeling better about being able to climb more frequently, as I'm moving to St Helens (temporarily) in a few weeks' time.  Trips out to easy north Welsh (also slate!) and lakeland rock are now reasonable day trips rather than weekends or overnighters.  Can start getting my confidence back by toproping things, then try some harder leads, hopefully without panic attack!

Cheers AJM, all niggles resolved so back on track last week  Swim wise its been a lower volume than usual but have been practising sighting drills by adapting my breath stroke in case of low visibility open water in future events.  Wont be a permanent style, just nice to know I have the ability to change and adapt to conditions. Week went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim and 9km evening trail run

Tuesday, 5km morning run 1km lunchtime swim and 26km cycle home

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim

Friday, 0.5km lunchtime swim and a really cool trail run in the evening. The Beacon Solstice Run, a race up and down (twice) one of the biggest hills in the county. Great fun in a masochistic kind of way 

Saturday, another hilly 7km trail run

Sunday, legs knackered so a gentle 5km ride with the kids

Sneaky of him - impressed that he manged to forget about a trip like that! Thanks for taking over. 

I tend to do some sort of online video, 15-30 mins. Often the Yoga with Adrienne channel. In all honesty I mainly do it as some light exercise helps me to wake up in the morning, and developed the habit a few years ago when I was running 100km+ a week, and its kind of stuck. Found it made walking around all day much more bearable.

Regarding the hangboard - yes, some hold, so very close to the (arbitary) goal as you say. I use the AA battery method on the beastmaker 2k, which is as close to a 20 mm edge I can get. Keep meaning to buy a lattice board... maybe next payday. 100 kgill be a big mental step to take I suspect. Gains on the board have been very forthcoming over the last 7-8 months or so, I did a lattice assessment on the 6th August last year and managaged 75.8kg total - so to be pushing 100kg really is something! Next fingers assessment will be on a similar date this year, so will be very interesting to see what I can get. FWIW my history of hangboarding beforehand was patchy to non-existent at best.

Last week (2019.25)

Week of two halves really - big load on the back end!

Monday: Run 4.3km - just checking out my foot tenditis. As expected, a week of rest and RICE has done its magic.

Tuesday: 1) Yoga; 2) Run 12.3km 190 m elevation

Wednesday: Rest. Went to the cricket and overindulged in Pimms.

Thursday: Tired and hungover. Yoga.

Friday: Run 12.4km, 928m (Snowdon via the ridge right of Cyrn Las, I forget the name)

Saturday: Terminator (E1 5b), including the walk in/out to Pen-y-Gwyrd. 3.5 pitches of mainly scary E1, and 1.5 pitches of grass. 120m of mod (Terminal Arete (M) to the top. 

Sunday: Yoga and rest.

This week (2019.26)

Couple of climbing days planned ( Craig Cnwch one evening and the orme for a day), couple of runs planned (Club TT and a Cadair loop) and then the lakes at the weekend with my non-climbing gf. Will try to sneak some bouldering however... Couple of hangboard sessions in the week as well.

Should add my low intensity Sunday was a combination of a lazy start and the early afternoon rain.

Pulling double shifts to make up for eating soo many tasty deserts last week! Considering the weather recently it was nice to see that big ball of yellow pop it's head out to say hello this week. Felt like a good week climbing and training wise even though I have not spent much time projecting routes recently.

So without further ado here we go:

Mon - A good 1 1/2 hour session at the Rockburn bouldering centre on my way back from our weekend away in Woolacombe. Spent time on the 40 degree board repeating the same problem with 1 minutes rests between to try and work on endurance a bit.

Tues - Did a few pull-ups but that was about it.

Wed - Back to Rockburn in the evening for a full on long session on the 40 degree board. Felt really strong on it and was able to power up some new problems in the font 7a range. Focused on hard individual moves over endurance.

Thur - Workout at home - Hangboarding (7 on 3 off, 6 reps, 6 sets) with extra 5kg weight. Pull-up & Push-up sets with extra 20kg (5 reps, rest 30-60 seconds) in total I did 25 reps of each. Antag exercises inc wrist rollers & grip block sets. Finished up with core for 15 minutes.

Fri - Outdoor bouldering at the Cuttings boulder field. Repeated Lost Decade at Font 7a while trying the Years Around the Sun finish which gets font 7a+. Felt do-able but didn't quite get it tonight.

Sat - Sport on Portland - Feeling a tad knackered so dropped the grade but still managed so nice classic mid 6's. Was nice to be in the sun trying to get a tan.

Sun - Sport on Portland - Still feeling a tad knackered but as with Saturday was nice to get out just ticking mid/easy 6's.

Cheers 

Didn't get down to Fairhead, probably start of July before I get a chance. Just gives me more opportunity to train!

Mostly been doing pull ups and dips on the rings and trying to get the technique in to attempt a muscle up! Might branch out and try some other exercises as well

M - Climbfit, felt loads better than last week back to where I was before. 22.5kg on pullups and 9kg on dips

T - Pilates

W- Anaerobic 4x4 session on home board, followed up with some dips and pull ups on rings

T - Max bouldering session on home board, good progress, was feeling strong. My project for the last couple of weeks got finally done

F - Rest, drinks (more drinks than planned)

S - Hungover, dragged myself to boulderworld for a session. Didn't perform too badly, other than going for a lie down between climbs and generally bemoaning my fate. Another 3 flashes on the comp wall to have me 10 off my 200 pt target and finished my session off with a black problem i'd failed on the last time.

Su - Rest

Pretty happy with my week, just need to keep it up, add in the fingerboarding and i'll be doing well I think. 10 weeks to Font has really got the psyche for training up!

Monday - Fingerboard Session + Offset pullups + Core

Tues - Rest

Wednesday - Malham - Raindogs (8a) startign to make some good links but still not entirely sure how best to go about clipping the last bolt before the chains. Also fingerboarded.

Thurs - Went to a very soggy hollywood bowl and had a few burns on Sunset Boulevard (7b+) but felt completely exhausted after a session on raindogs. Dont think i can handle two days climbing in a row when trying that close to my limit. 

Fri - Rest, also ended up enjoying the local beer garden a little too much.

Sat - Climbed  Central Pillar (E2 5b) on esk butress. Climbing very steady but its fair to say i was pretty terrified on the runout 4th pitch! Absolutely loved the climbing though. Cool to eye up The Cumbrian (E5 6b) as a long term goal for the next couple of years.

Sun - Central Buttress (E1 5b) on scafell, Went in to climb Saxon (E2 5c) however the second crack pitch looked rather wet so ended up climbing this instead. An enjoyable route but nothing to write home about. Starting to feel like im getting back into the swing of trad climbing after a couple of months of near enough exclusively sport climbing.  Very keen to come back and try more routes on scafell especially The White Wizard (E3 5c). But perhaps once ive go a few more E3's under my belt.

All in all a pretty good week maybe not in terms of training but defiantely in terms of enjoyement of the climbing ive done. Hopefully all the walking in the lakes was a good warm up ready for heading to alps next week. As for the coming week its looking like a complete write off with a busy period at work before heading off to glastonbury on tuesday.

Thanks for stats Andy - Compex is my electrostimulation widget for rehab and BFR is very much in phase of personal experimentation. Think i've arrived at a protocol that is appropriate.

Week 25

M – Tried to go to Tom’s Cave to finish off King Cannibal, but it was the wettest I’ve ever seen it ☹ Ended up at Curbar. Bad Lip & Late Junction went down easy enough, and could pull on to Huffy’s Roof at the proper start, but the first slap was nails (gets you into the position all the incorrect/cheaty online videos show as the start) and even then, the lip moves felt nails! Might be intrigued enough to give it another go…

T – Not much volume at Curbar, so max hangs session. Started with mono sling lean-outs; upped intensity by wearing 5kg vest as hard to increase intensity via extra lean with current garage set-up. Combo of Crimpd 90% “max-hangs” session (BW-14kg = 95% but felt steady away) and personalised max-hang session with varied grips. Small progress on most grips; big progress on sloper – I think the wrist curls are having a positive effect here. 3x9 OHP @ 37.5kg 1x10 DL@80kg.

W – 23km flat ride – too hard immediately after lunch and felt nauseous for 2nd half of the ride. A couple of segment PBs but a long way off KOM. Evening yoga class – mostly twisting poses. 

T – Had good intentions; never got further than mowing the lawn! Achy sides.

F – Kilnsey half day. Worst midges ever. Very annoyed with myself for missing out a new line – I turned up at the crag with trad gear and drill, ready to aid & bolt, but when I arrived, The Gresh was mid redpoint on the line I had spotted. This prompted me to bolt one of the other projects I’d spotted and I also served as a reminder to pull my finger out and check out things I’ve seen at various other crags. Failed to RP Aboriginal Sin again – this time due to a wet hold. At least I confirmed that my earlier melt-downs had reasonable grounds as to a 200kg block came free with very little ice axe encouragement!

S – 31km hilly mountain biking with wifey. 

S – Wanted to get back to the big K, but various house/garden/car things got in the way. Back to the tor; best man Gareth has been working Mecca on the quiet and had some great foot beta which altered the way I pull on the crux hold and removes the tendency to wrist fukcage. I got competitive when Gareth linked from floor to pocket, so pulled hard and did ground to razor (start of crux) and also linked undercut to top of groove. Time to get shredded and do some aero-power training…  

Since you're local to me and that there's that lovely yellow symbol in abundance - Any interest in climbing Tuesday evening or potentially Friday?

A varied week this one, which has involved a lot of climbing virtually no training. I did, at least, make use of the evening light this week though! 

M: Gym

T: Rest

W: Went to  Dovestones Edge in the evening as a mate wanted to try Hanging Crack (E2 5b) unfortunately it looks like it hasn't been touched in ages so we put that one back in the pack for a day when we weren't short on time. I managed to lead my first E2, Question Time (E2 5c). I toproped it first to brush it and work out the route and then led it. Wasn't ever on my ticklist but its a slab which is definitely my sort of thing, with a nice pointed arete feature at the top so well chuffed with that. 

T: Swim

F:  Went to Birchen Edge with the other half. Tried to pick routes that I wouldn't normally go for which was fun. 

S:  Visited  Ramshaw Rocks for the first time, Some really nice routes!

S: Went to the Roaches. Had an epic day and onsighted my first E2:  Commander Energy (E2 5c) What a route!! The Roaches is quickly becoming my favourite crag.

Nice one!

Hi AJM,

Thanks for looking after FC, sorry to hear you've had a frustrating week, I hope this weeks going better.

Thanks for the reminder that crap sessions happen to us all, thankfully nowadays I don't dwell on them when they do.

Loving the beach, food and booze thanks...though getting back in the swing of training again after may be difficult!

Just manged the one session last week before holiday prep and then holiday took priority. Biked to the wall and climbed up to v4 and then did all the hard moves on one of the very stiff v5's at the wall only to grease off the last easy move, dam.....skin is never great in the sunmer.

Anyway back to the holiday...Wheres that glass of wine!

Hope everyone has a good week

Thanks for doing the stats, a hefty session it was and it left me pretty knackered.

Weeks 17th- 23rd

M: warm up, 10 min ARC + 2 x 8 scap pull ups, 8 x 10s 1/2 crimp - +15kg, boulder doubles (2 boulders in a row with 3 mins rest in between), TRX pulls regime, and a floor core work out. Flexibility stretches.

T: Had planned to run, raining and i felt tired.

W: Warm up, 5 x 10s 1/2 crimp +17.5kg, Ancap 1 boulder on the min for 6mins x 3, TRX push up regime, 5 on 3 off aerocap. Stretches

T: A few easy routes.

F: ~30min run.

S: Portland to find something for my GF. Summer has arrived, warmed up on Evening Falls (6a+) wanted to try victims but was busy. Then a kind of o/s / flash Always Have the Edge (6c) (have tried before ages ago but could only remember the start was really hard) clearly not a good choice for GF, start was hard and the top a lil runout, full sun by this point. Then o/s'd Buoys will be Buoys (6b+), what a great climb, top felt tough in the full sun, not been on it before as its usually busy. GF did not like the traversing bit, so we moved on. To Wish the Impossible (7a) was next, this was my first 7a in 2015, so it was nice to come back to it. Not quite as easy as i was expecting given how soft everyone reckons it is, but I did have memories of wild slapping and fighting at the top, which in my memory was the crux, this felt very chilled and easy, so goes to show at least I have improved at climbing slightly steep moves on jugs. GF absolutely loved the route, her style, she didn't manage the RP so we will be heading back ASAP.

S: Woke up feeling a bit ill, sore throat. Decided to take it easy, took some painkillers, felt great, forgot all about feeling ill. Went for a 45 min run (Big mistake).

This Week:

Well I didn't sleep much Sunday night, and I had tonsils the size of golf balls by Monday morning. Now on antiobiotics (starting to feel like a total sicknote), and next week i am meant to be in the alps. So this week I am just resting, and hoping I recover and the thundery weather forecast for next week doesn't appear.

As to plans for the week, no definite plans but I have to be in Geneva for the Tuesday, which has thrown our plans a little considering we flying in to Milan. Rough plan is to start in Orco, then head to Chamonix from Weds on wards, if the weather permits then will have a crack at the Cordier Pillar (TD+ 6b).

Hey AJM, thanks for stepping into the hot-seat. Plan is for a full conversion to camper van registration standard, Going slowly, as I keep going climbing instead of working on it! Heading up to the Lakes to beta test my layout, so some walking and climbing and no conversion progress, haha.

Mo:    General walking, 7.7 miles. Tired after big day on Sunday
Tu:    General walking, 7.6 miles. 2 sport routes, one of which was a dnf!
We:    General walking, 8.3 miles. Work on van.
Th:    General walking, 7.7 miles. 3 trad routes in between rain.
Fr:    Urban mooching, 8.5 miles.
Sa:    General walking, 7.4 miles. 6 sport routes.
Su:    General walking, 6.0 miles. 11 trad routes, including ground up ascent of the excellent Earl Buttress.
Weight: 10st 4lb/bf 15.4%

No training, little van progress and plenty of climbing. Nice day out sporting on Saturday and cracking trad day at Earl Crag on the Sunday. Diet has gone to pot, so need to rein it in a bit. No targets or training plan at the mo, so just getting out and climbing. Happy days.

Sorry! So rubbish at keeping up with UKC topics/threads...

Yes to this evening if that still works for you? I did pop up a post earlier on Dorset Climbing as well.

Cheers

Sorry, just got back not long ago, went to Blacknor North until the sun came round which worked pretty well.

Will try! 

M - netball

T - nothing 

W - fat run (the kind where you run for 5 mins then hyperventilate for 1 min, repeat x 10)

T - yoga

F - yoga

S - Ogmore trad

S - fingerboard after grandma birthday 

Hey, very late this week (as last was my post last week which didn't make it on time).

Mon: gym legs - improvement for one-legged squats. When stood on a box I can get all the way down on my right leg but not on left yet.

Tues: Bouldering - working some new sets. Feel like I need a few days rest from hard bouldering as fingers feeling a little fragile from overdoing it.

Weds: reps gym session including 100 reps made up of chin-ups (33 reps), pull-ups (34 reps) and ring pulls. (33 reps) - did roughly 5 each set to get to the 100 rep total.

Boulder session at the castle. Fun but still felt a bit beaten up to pull hard!

Thurs: rest

Fri: gym - front lever progression and fun session

Sat: hungover ALL DAY - never drinking again

Sun: climbing at the castle - still possibly hungover

Not my best week! Although the week we have just had involved a lot less climbing :S

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 5lbs 

M - 3 miles

T - 4 miles

W - 3 miles

T - Scuba

F - S - Rest

Got the wodge of walking in again.  Then nothing over the weekend.  Went to scuba again, ended up being a bit rushed and not much fun.  But there we go.  Diet is totally out of the window at the moment.  I think you're being rather polite there Andy, I'm not just ticking over, I'm totally idle really.  I'm trying to get back into things, but just don't have the time or the energy.