/ UKC Fit Club week 649

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Afternoon all, just a placeholder for now. Stats either late this evening or first thing tomorrow morning. Feel free to get in early if you've a mega success to share!

Powderpuff 25 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Monday: ran to wall and climbed easy problems up to v3.

Wednesday: ran to wall and re climbed two v4 and one v5 problems. Worked the v6 again, made slight progress

Sunday: 8 max hangs on the finger board. 3 sets of 20 sit ups.

Weight 11st 7

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Hi Fit Clubbers,

This week we've seen a welcome reappearance of the sun. Hopefully work and family commitments have coincided with this and allowed you guys to get out too? I've been by the sea in Costa Del Somerset all week which has been beautiful in the sunshine, a nice change from the Steel City. Your discussion homework this week is 'reducing recovery time'. Has anyone got any top tips for getting back out there sooner after a hard session? Mine don't really go beyond: warming up and down, eating and drinking soon after finishing and getting plenty of sleep.

SSB

(You'll have to forego the usual blurb at the beginning as I'm trying to type on a phone and I don't think I can copy and paste!)

POSTERS:

AJM- I'm very jealous of all your DWS antics. It's always one of those things I really want to do until I'm doing it then I'm terrified. About 10 years ago I went on a DWS trip and one of our team couldn't swim. We had to have a mate in a dingy all the time ready to fish him out when he fell in! Great work on Bare Reputation, did you manage to get on Underbare this week?

AlanLittle- Well done for getting up to Laddow in the rain... but on to your LTG. What's the plan for getting there? There are several 8a crushing 60 yr olds active in the Peak although they are all maintaining a level rather than improving. I always see them on the long stamina pitches rather than the bouldery stuff.  Have you picked out a target route yet? That should help focus some specific training. 

Biscuit- Great self analysis. Your full plan definitely won't bore us, this is fit club we love that stuff! Are you aiming for a particular position in BOB? Have you managed to proceed as planned this week?

Somerset Swede basher- Well done me. Lots of low 7s boulder mileage and new venues. Should be ready to get on some multi session epic when term starts and time is less plentiful.

Tyler- how did the rest of your Pembroke trip go? Good work for getting something done dedpite injury. Its hard when you want to get out more but something hurts. Maybe get some seconding brownie points in ready for when you are back to full speed?

The sheep- what was your half marathon time? An effort of just clocking up the miles? What's the next big event to aim for?

Ally Smith- how is the groin/virus? Looks like you managed to get out despite feeling grotty. Have you tried to bench press Mat yet!? Hopefully you've had some progress on the Devils Gorge newbies this week.

Steve Jones- sorry to hear about the foot. Any news on recovery? If you do a search of the threads on here there are loads of tips for training upper body when carrying a foot injury. Check out the crimpd app, several on here use that.

Cyan- Brilliant! Glad to see the psyche has returned. Do you know what triggered it so we can all tap into that when we can't be bothered!? Careful of doing too much too soon. We have a lot of injured fit clubbers at the moment.

Ianstevens- antics in the far north sound amazing. A propper 'remember for ever' experience. Good mileage this week no see. Remember to keep it all skin friendly in the run up to your Font trip, that place will harvest your fingertips!

Bones- looks like a good training week (particularly the Sunday recovery food!) Muscle ups with added resistance sound savage. Is it this week you were hoping to get out to the Alps?

Powderpuff- ha ha, glad it's not just me that thinks of Linford Christie when someone says PMA. Well done for getting out when sleepy. Has work calmed down this week enough to get the fingerboard session in?

Tom Green- firstly, new respect for your stating stint, I hadn't considered how long it takes! I saw a picture of Melvyn Bragg recently, looks ace.  Will you return for a rematch? Has this week been the predicted workfest? It could be a blessing, call it a taper week

Niall_li- glad to see the training is working! Gives us all some hope. Great work on your position in the summer league, how does this compare to previous years? Enjoy Fairhead.

SFrancis- trying hard and resting is a good tactic! Have you got a training plan or is it a race of seeing how recovery goes?

Ardo- good work on the walking. Is this using an app to see how much you get done during the day or a specific walk? Good work at Beeston, it must have been hot, it makes for a great winter venue.

David Staples- where was your trip to? Hope the finger injury didn't slow you down too much.

Lornajkelly- sounds like plenty of life stuff going on R.e. houses etc. Did you manage your 3 runs this week? Have you picked out something in particular you want to lead?

I think that's everyone that posted last week. Apologies if I've mised anyone.

MIA- sorry guys, can't leave this page without fear of losing it so no name check this week. Hope to have you back soon! 

outdoors.nick 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Hands up. I was MIA  last week as it was a bit of a rubbish one. Went in search of Cornish granite. Climbed 1 VDiff. Then slipped, over extended my foot somehow & injured a couple of tendons in my left foot. Still can't weight it properly. The next day we were crashed into by a drunk driver. Quickly retreated back to the north. 

This week has been rest & rehab. Just walking in crutches is tiring!

Hopefully next week I'll be back up and running....

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Almost forgot I need to post too. 

Mon. Quick session on the cemetery park boulder. 3 x 7As (one of them a flash) 2 x 7A+s. Long drive south. 

Tues. Rest/family stuff. 

Wed. Went to  North Quarry with Mrs. Swede. There are some quality sport routes in the 4s and 5s up to 40m long so had to deploy the euro rope. Also flashed a 7a, just!

Thurs. Day 1 of mini mtb tour, 56km.

Fri. Day 2 of mini mtb bike tour 80km.

Sat. Rest. 

Sun.  Brean Down did the 7a and 7b boulder traverses. Harder than expected and also better. Too tired to try the harder stuff. Take a rake if visiting soon, the beach level is really high at the moment and it's hard to keep your bum off the floor on theow bits. 

Tyler 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for stepping up to the plate SSB.

> how did the rest of your Pembroke trip go? Good work for getting something done dedpite injury. Its hard when you want to get out more but something hurts. Maybe get some seconding brownie points in ready for when you are back to full speed?

To be honest the hips weren't the issue, I can't do anything about them, it was the fact that I've hardly climbed or trained hard since last year.....

M: Headed to Mother Carey's but tide still in so went to White Tower, I backed off the E1 as it had a committing move in deck out zone, after seconding it I did the E2 next door Petit Blanc (E2 5c), really pleased with this as I spent the whole way up thinking I was going to back off. After that I seconded John Wayne, this was another one on the nominal 'E5 to lead in the future list'. Found it harder than expected and harder than Ships that Pass in the Night.

T: Rest, cold shower!

W: Warmed up on Hangover '77 (E1 5b) which was a bit more butch than I wanted, a super classic but decidedly up hill. Seconded Poisoned Arrow which felt quite easy then lead Space Cadet (E3 5c), never felt like I'd come off but was expecting the gear around or after the crux to be better.

T: Everything damp, clawed my way up something at St. Govan east then crawled out of Trevellan after my friend's abortive attempt on Yellow Pearls. Started journey back.

F: Picked Fi up from Bangor and decided on a quick late afternoon scramble (North Arête (2) Once again I under estimated the challenge/over estimated my ability! Glad we had a rope as the approach pitch up some wet gully was terrifying, above that was really good but definitely grade 3 as it had steps of Diff climbing. Recommended for a dry spell.

S: First visit to Newborough Beach, possibly the highlight of the week. So beautiful, and big enough not to be crowded despite it being a sunny bank holiday. Finished by meeting for pizza up with friends in 'beris which was the perfect end to the trip

S: Protected my sunburn from further exposure by painting in the attic and listening to the cricket.

Overall it was a great week, enjoyed being in the van and outdoors for a change, I fell back in love with Wales (hiraeth!). I could have done more climbing but pleased to have paced myself and looking back at my logbook this was my first E3 OS for 7 years and added to a couple of stiff E2s and the E3 I did on Adam's gear is OK for a knackered, old, unfit desk jockey.

The one disappointment was I didn't loose any weight despite less food and more activity all week.

Post edited at 11:04
ianstevens 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Hi Fit Clubbers,

> This week we've seen a welcome reappearance of the sun. Hopefully work and family commitments have coincided with this and allowed you guys to get out too? I've been by the sea in Costa Del Somerset all week which has been beautiful in the sunshine, a nice change from the Steel City. Your discussion homework this week is 'reducing recovery time'. Has anyone got any top tips for getting back out there sooner after a hard session? Mine don't really go beyond: warming up and down, eating and drinking soon after finishing and getting plenty of sleep.

That';s pretty much what I've always done as well. To add to the eating thing, I try to keep well fueled through my session (i.e. eat a biscuit every hour for proper training, or graze all day when outside). 

> Ianstevens- antics in the far north sound amazing. A propper 'remember for ever' experience. Good mileage this week no see. Remember to keep it all skin friendly in the run up to your Font trip, that place will harvest your fingertips!

Cheers - more good stuff done this week, but becasue of the warm temps and trying stuff with small holds... my skin is suffering. Getting the placebo skin balm on it as we speak, and will be taking it easy the next few das to try and help it grow back. Off on Friday, temps looking a bit warm at present (not really the best time of year to go of course). Will try to post next week but might be MIA.

Last Week

Monday: 1) Yoga; 2) Indoor bouldering - warm up (45 mins) then 3 x 20 mins on 3 specific 7A-B problems (one steep and crimpy, one steep and slope, one vert and knacky tech); 3) TRX shoulder enegagment exercises

Tuesday: 1) Yoga; 2) 90% hangs 6 x 10 sec @ 90.2kg; 3) 5 x 5 pull ups, TRX shoulders, crimpd h-core and wrist flexor/extensor (12.5/7.5kg)

Wednesday: Same as monday. Topped one of the three problems (vert and knacky) so will replace it with a new one.

Thursday: 1) 90% hangs 6 x 10 secs @ 90.3kg; 2) Pull ups 5 x 5, TRX Shoulders, crimpd static core; 3) Hike in the Black Mountains, 17.3km, 640m

Friday: 1) Yoga; 2) FINALLY got to the top of Tempest (f7A) - great problem. 5th 7A of the year.

Saturday:  Gallt yr Ogof Boulder 6A, B+ and C (crag log is a bit crap on UKC!). Had a good few goes at the Ramp (7A/+). Evening session on the Barrel, trying Bulling 747 and the Minimum.

Sunday: Ragged skin and quite tired - bimbled up Valerie's Rib.

Post edited at 11:59
AJM 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> AJM- I'm very jealous of all your DWS antics. It's always one of those things I really want to do until I'm doing it then I'm terrified. About 10 years ago I went on a DWS trip and one of our team couldn't swim. We had to have a mate in a dingy all the time ready to fish him out when he fell in! Great work on Bare Reputation, did you manage to get on Underbare this week?

Thanks Mr Swede

Tuesday - I did get on Underbare, superb but I didn't climb it very well, footless thuggery rather than heels or toes either behind or in front of me, so no tick. 

Wed/Thur - achey for 2 days afterwards!

Friday - Avon. With hindsight, we should have gone to Wintours, where at least you can hide in the trees on lower pitches. The dramatic improvement in forecast caught us off guard and we ended up rather sunblasted. I tried a route, and to my concern had actual pain rather than aches in my shoulders, was a bit worried I'd crocked something on Underbare. Continued to Pembroke with some trepidation.

Saturday - Pembroke. Led Lotus Europa (E2 5c) and First Blood (E2 5c) and seconded Quiet Waters Direct (E3 5c), which is desperate. Shoulder ok but back more achey than expected - overcompensation perhaps? First Blood in particular was a big hole in the CV and an excellent route.

Sunday - shoulder still feeling ok but not really up to very hard stuff. More classic ticking at lower grades - Too Much Pressure (E1 5a), Davy Crocket (HVS 5a) (nice but less of a classic,), Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) (superb) and seconded Manzoku (E1 5b) to finish.

Monday - second night of poor sleep - May cottage has cockerels for neighbours and the road is surprisingly busy, so not a quiet place to camp. Misty, which took a while to burn off. Chapel point, led Ultravixens (E1 5b) for another excellent CV gap filling and seconded Sly Fox (E2 5b) due to some uncertainty over where Ultravox went.

Really nice trip to Pembroke - shoulder worries (and poor sleep) stopped it being the parade of glory ticking I might have hoped but made up for it with some excellent classics at slightly more amenable grades. This was probably my big opportunity to push the boat out and try to get on E4/5, which is a shame, but there's always next time.

Unsure what the week ahead holds. My skin is flayed, and it's a non-climbing weekend, but I do have Friday off so may be able to do something then...

Steve Jones 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Re this weeks homework on recovery - not being a climber I can't really add to what you put, but from running I found compression and also Compex (electrical stimulation) possibly helped - hard to tell if it's placebo from spending too much money on anything that may help! I do wonder if using Compex too much did drain my legs of energy as sometimes they felt fine but just had no umph. I don't have the muscle mass on my upper body for either compression or Compex to do much (and I gave my machine away to a friend who has MS as she would get more benefit from it, and I didn't feel the absence of it's use was detrimental).

I've installed Crimpd but it looks a bit beyond me! 

> Steve Jones- sorry to hear about the foot. Any news on recovery? If you do a search of the threads on here there are loads of tips for training upper body when carrying a foot injury. Check out the crimpd app, several on here use that.

Recover is going slowly but getting there. Still no running. I had the week off and had planned to do loads of running, but given the weather and injury I still bashed out a lot of training:

M - Indoor climbing @ Kong - 2hrs 15 routes and bouldering. Got the V4 prob that had stumped me.

T - 2 hrs out on t he bike including Whilatter and Honister passes (held up on the top of the latter as they were filming 'The A Word'). 50 mins strength stuff in evening.

W - 75 mins turbo trainer intervals in afternoon, 90 mins at Kong in the evening.

T - 45 mins easy turbo spin in the morn, 40 mins strength training in eve.

F - 2hr 30 at kong including a pleasant social bouldering session. Got few more V4s done. 70 mins out on the bike in the eve.

S - 3hr 40 on the bike - round skiddaw, down to Dunmail via St Johns in the Vale and back.

S - Troutdale Pinnacle (S) as a 'practice client' for Ben Hester, who I could heartily recommend. Took us hours but was fun and learned a lot. Amazing weather too. 70 mins on bike in evening.

High points obviously the climb on Sunday. Disapointments being not doing the stretching I wanted, and eating to much crap given I can't run it off.

Niall_li 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for taking over in Tom's absence!

It's actually the first time I've seriously entered the league, so don't really have much of a comparison, but did better than I expected.

Big success of the week was finally getting to the top of eat it. Felt agonisingly close earlier on in my session on Saturday when a foot pop near the top scuppered me, then another time I dry fired off a hold. Was tiring and getting worse on it, so went for the famed one last go and just blasted through it. First 7A! Delighted with it! Roll on font in a fortnight!

Not the most solid week from a training perspective, but I'll take it

M - missed climbfit to go see the foo fighters

T - rest

W - AM fingerboard. +15kg on half crimp, +5kg on front 2

PM boulderworld good session on hard blocs

T - rest

F - rest

S - Fairhead bouldering, climbed my project

S - Fairhead bouldering circuit of boulders, nothing too hard

AJM 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Niall_li:

> Fairhead bouldering, climbed my project 

Nice!!!

AlanLittle 26 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

STG: Get back on some local projects.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2, no chance.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60. This is looking pretty unfeasible too, see below.

Back at work, busy there & stuff to catch up on at home too resulted in a very light training week.

M: Was dreading reacquaintance with my bathroom scales, but to my astonishment I didn't actually put on any weight. My uk trip spent like I felt half the time sitting in the hire car or in restaurants & pubs.
T:    Beastmaker max hangs
W:
T:     
F:
S: 
S: Indoor bouldering at Einstein, my new favourite bouldering wall.

> but on to your LTG. What's the plan for getting there? There are several 8a crushing 60 yr olds active in the Peak although they are all maintaining a level rather than improving. I always see them on the long stamina pitches rather than the bouldery stuff.  Have you picked out a target route yet? That should help focus some specific training. 

You ask at a bad - and therefore good - time. Having a definite crisis of faith at the moment; after a good trip to Kalymnos in May I've basically lost all momentum and seem to be hitting a big performance and motivational low. After being delighted to get into the low French 7's a few years ago, and despatched a number of 7a's with reasonable ease including a flash, I'm completely failing to move beyond that level, and starting to doubt whether given family and work I can realistically get enough time on rock to do so. 

Could have got out this weekend, at least for a day, but had a lot of post-holiday stuff to catch up on at home so didn't. But keep will keep trudging on until something improves - am signed up to go & explore some East Bavarian granite next weekend with one of my best projecting partners.

Ally Smith 27 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for the stats Herr Swede.

Week 34 plan

M – Compex on abs – felt fine. Was hoping to ride for a couple of hours after work but got rained on heavily and hence quit early (20km).

T – Lunchtime strength training: 8mm edges with 12.5kg. 5x5 pull-ups with 32.5 kg. Failed on last rep. After work Crimpd an-cap repeaters: Strict F3 crimp x3 @BW. M2 x4 @BW+15kg (could have gone harder?) Brew, then BM2K-AA x6 @BW+32.5kg (hard). Pretty intense session – shoulders felt it. 6x8 OHP with 31.5kg. Physio exercises on groin & shoulder in evening.

W – Woke up feeling beat up with lots of DOMS. Groin physio exercises only.

T – Lunchtime strength training: 8mm edges with 15kg (found the right intensity; 7s hangs challenging). 5x5 wide-grip pull-ups with 5 kg (on the minute). 10x10 OHP with 15kg. F3 crimp x3 @BW – felt more tweaky than Tuesday so lowered the intensity and swapped an-cap for aero-cap. 1on/1off 40% 7/3/6/1 x15

F – Groin physio and foam rollering only.

S – Devil’s Gorge. Great session – lots of trying hard from everyone. Bouldered up to 7A+ to warm-up. Then worked the Hades (8a+)/Canyonlands (8a) link-up. Lead it in sections and nailed the crux (the new bit) 2 times out of 3 on lead. High point from the floor was reaching shallow 2-finger pocket at roof on Hades (i.e. just before they split) which is about 8a’s worth. I was pumped stupid though, so definitely need some more efficiency on the route and more ability to recover at the marginal shake out by the chains on Underworld (7c) (7c+ fo sho!).

S – The Snowdon Horseshoe (Summer) (1) with my wife. Having scared the crap out of her on Sharp Edge previously, I was a little concerned by how she’d fare on Crib Goch. I needn’t have worried – we had a great day out, but some faff at the start of the day meant we had to jog last km on the Miner’s track to get back in time for the last bus; legs are still feeling it 2 days later!

biscuit 27 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for stepping in SSB! Much appreciated.

The plan for the BOB is to just go and do my best. I know a couple of the people i'll be competing against. I normally finish 2nd/3rd in the Manchester Depot boulder leagues. I know the open category will be very well attended but I've no idea if people will travel for the Vets category. So I could get absolutely smashed or do OK. Who knows?

The plan is a basic one. Drop a bit of weight/eat healthy. Pull hard regularly. Focus on technique in warm ups. I've got some flexibility work to do and shoulder health workouts. Going to try and fit in some max fingerboarding as well for a bit of recruitment.

This week the plan went totally out of the window - good start - but for all the right reasons. I've climbed outdoors 5 out of the last 7 days.

Mon - short run, home exercises and flexibility

Tue - as above plus a visit to Anglezarke. Got totally sandbagged on a 'traditional' VS which then only left time for a quick go on a top rope on King of Kings. This quickly went from being a top rope session to pull hard on something to being quite interested in a headpoint. I've never top roped/headpointed a trad route before. We'll see.

Wed - As per Monday. Depot SUmmer Boulder League. Trying the harder ones. I do feel i'm getting a couple more than I used to. May be an easier set? There were a couple I felt that with an extra session I might get but I don't think i'll get back now.

Thurs - Craig Arthur - went with the idea of looking at some fantastic E2's and an E3 with others wanting to check out the sport. It was the windiest place on earth. No way was I going up slabs in that. Hard to clip due to draws being horizontal in the wind. Did some sport. Onsighted up to 6c The trad lines look amazing. The sport looks good - but there is some choss. I pulled a solid looking block off a route and took an interesting sideways/inverted fall. One to go back to - the crag not that route.

Fri - rest. Stretch and chill.

Sat - Chapel Head. Totally gopping but we figured everywhere would be so persevered. My partner had a long standing battle with Heinous Penis 6b (6c+ is more likely) where the climbing is packed into the first 3 bolts. It was dry so why not? Got that 3rd go - very specific beta needed working out. He got it as well ending a long vendetta against his arch nemesis route. Checked out some routes for potential projects.

Sun - Rest day

Mon - strictly speaking this should be in next weeks but its a BH weekend so feels like it should go in here. Went to LPT. Very hot to start but came good in the end. Warmed up onsighting up to 6c and had a bash at Nightglue. Got through the steep stuff and the next rockover before coming undone beta wise around the cornflake. I was just a bit mystified as to where to go and went for a hold that wasn't a hold. Wasn't able to have a second go due to the tides. I feel with another look to sort the beta it'd definitely go so maybe i'm a bit fitter than I thought? Wanted to go on Boardwalk but people were queueing for a cool down. 

So a very good week. I feel i'm finally getting my climbing feet back. I've been struggling with that since I started getting back outside. Route reading used to be a strength of mine but lack of rock time has had an effect.

On with the training this week - though i'm not going to let it get in the way of climbing outdoors.

the sheep 27 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> The sheep- what was your half marathon time? An effort of just clocking up the miles? What's the next big event to aim for?

Cheers, the half was slow, 2 hours 10. However pace was never the goal as it was just a pleasure run. Also it was bloody hot and really windy. It didnt help that the sea wall had collapsed for part of the route too. Next event is a 10 mile off road race in late September. Should be fun but has a sting in the tail as it finishes up a very steep hill 

Anyway had a good week gone by.

Monday, 1km swim

Tuesday, 1km swim

Wednesday, 1km swim

Thursday, 2km swim followed by stretch class and 7km evening run

Friday, 1km swim and 8km run

Saturday, 8km run

Sunday, rest

Liamhutch89 27 Aug 2019

Been away from ukc for about a year and haven't really climbed as much as i've been more interested in my DH bike. 

Anyway, i'm keen for it again now after 'discovering' outdoor bouldering, which i've never really got into for whatever reason. Living in Leeds, this is ideal as there's a lifetime supply of boulders within after work distances.

I'm going to forgo all stamina training and solely concentrate on strength, power and movement - max hangs, 45 degree board and campusing will be in order, but outdoor climbing (including lamp sessions) will be prioritised. 

Over the last 2 weeks i've managed a few 7A boulders and a single 7A+. Medium term goal (this winter) is to send 7C and get reasonably established at 7B (send 5 or more).

At 85kg c.10% body fat, the 7C will probably be something compressiony/core strength rather than fingery! 

Max hangs currently at +15kg 4x10s

Ardo 27 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Ardo- good work on the walking. Is this using an app to see how much you get done during the day or a specific walk? Good work at Beeston, it must have been hot, it makes for a great winter venue.

Hey SSW, ta for stat-ting. I use a mix of activity tracker, known distance walks and GPS for longer stuff. I've amended the stride settings of my tracker and find it to be reasonably accurate and actually under-estimates on longer hill walks, so swings and roundabouts. Beeston was ok, as a quick shower when we arrived and a gentle breeze eased things. Never climbed there in winter, so will keep it in mind.

Mo: General walking, 8.0 miles. 5 trad routes and a solo racking up more easy ticks @ Birchen.
Tu: General walking, 6.5 miles. Rest day, as tired and feeling a bit washed out.
We: General walking, 8.1 miles. Park walk and van stuff.
Th: General walking, 6.6 miles. 5 trad routes and couple of solos @ Stanage Pop.
Fr: General walking, 7.0 miles. 5 trad routes back @ Stanage Pop.
Sa: Peak District walking, 19.3 miles.
Su: Cricket walking, 10.3 miles. Walk to/from station and Headingley cricket ground for a most stupendous day.
Weight: 10st 6lb/bf 15.9%

3 days climbing, big peak walk and an Ashes victory to live long in the memory. Thursday was too windy for E2 and my plan to get on lime/E2 on Friday was scuppered by my pal wanting another Stanage day. Was almost a double E1 day, but found out one of them has been downgraded to HVS, c'est la vie. Sunday, well what can I say.... test cricket at its very finest.

Next week's plan
Get some more walking miles in for LDW prep.

Climb if time and weather permit.

SFrancis 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for doing the doing the stats. I have training plan but was waiting until i felt closer to 100%. I feel a lot better after the weekend, nothing like some scorching weather and sweaty grit to really clear the malaise. 

Week 19th - 25th

M: Rest

T: FB, Boulder - unstructured but good session, wrist curls

W: Rest

T: FB, Frenchies, 1min on 1min off, a few boulders, stretches

F: Rest - a few push ups

S: Even though the weather was looking scorching, friends from coventry and york were keen on meeting in the peak. Turned up for the evening, and headed to millstone seconded Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-hand Crack Only) (E1 5c) felt good. Decided to have a go at Great West Road (E3 5b) P1, didn't look like it had been climbed in awhile, crack full of spiderswebs, and very green. Made it all the way to the probably the last few big moves, before the green wall caught up with me and my foot slipped as I pulled up, and took a good whipper on to a dragonfly, gutted. Pulled on and finished, my shoes were absolutely caked in green. 

S: A scorching day, but decided to go have a look at Nosferatu (E6 6b) on a top rope in the morning. I've heard its not too bad but not seen anyone climb it. Took a couple of goes to work out the first couple of moves, and then climbed to the top, love the dyno finish. I can see how an onsight is a very different proposition to a flash for this route. Entertained leading, decided to TR one more time and slipped of the crucial crimp due to sweat, decided it was suicidal in the heat with no pads, and packed up. Headed to curbar waited for the heat to subside and led Maupassant (HVS 5a), slippery in the heat. Retreated to the pub. 

In reply to AlanLittle:

Would a series of progressive smaller goals help? Say, aim for 10 7a routes, go straight to redpointing to take any pressure of onsighting away. You could get psyched as it would feel achievable. Have you got a fingerboard at home? I always find it easier to get motivated when i can also watch the tv at the same time! Maybe one strength session at home and one endurance session at the wall during the week then a session on the rock at the weekend? 

AlanLittle 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

That turns out to be precisely this week‘s plan. Although the rock is granite (sort of) trad: good for the head, and for the climbing partner relationship, but for maximum grade progression I should probably keep my nose pressed to the limestone project grindstone instead.

And I wonder about the relative importance of fingerboarding vs bouldering. Would ideally like to find time for both.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Yes, finger boarding is great for finger strength but doesnt help you pull between holds or grab them quickly. Campus boarding solves these problems but then you aren't using much core so you need a core session too! 

mattrm 30 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 5lbs

M - T - Rest

F - Indoor routes

S - S - Rest

Again utterly stuffed.  Work has been nuts.  Got down the wall, but mainly thrashed on 4s and 5s.  It'll hopefully calm down in a few weeks.

Lornajkelly 31 Aug 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Lornajkelly- sounds like plenty of life stuff going on R.e. houses etc. Did you manage your 3 runs this week? Have you picked out something in particular you want to lead?

Thanks for the statting!

Yeah life's a bit mad at the moment.  As for leading, I'm probably going to start at Union rock or Tryfan Bach, where I know I can lead without any stress, and then find something new, like craig y tonnau or clogwyn yr oen.  Nearly got out over the weekend but we sacked it off when we realised that the entire north of England was trying to get onto the A55.  Plenty more occasions.

M - walk, roughly 45 minutes

Tu - couch to 5k week 5 run 1

W - DDP yoga session

Th - rest (migraine)

F - couch to 5k week 5 run 2

Sa - swim attempted and abandoned on account of the pool being full of kids

Su - couch to 5k week 5 run 3

STG:  swimming is going to be tricky until I find a pool that has lanes, so it'll be a mixed training session (either a cycle, hike, climbing session or exercise class).  So STG is maintain 3 runs and a mixed session throughout September.

MTG:  lead something outdoors by the end of 2019

LTG:  lead 5 VS by the end of 2020

Bones [:B 01 Sep 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Bones- looks like a good training week (particularly the Sunday recovery food!) Muscle ups with added resistance sound savage. Is it this week you were hoping to get out to the Alps?

Hey SSB,

I hope you have had a lovely time in Somerset, sounds blissful. 

No no! The resistance bands are to help not hinder. I use them to give me a big push up instead of having to do it all alone.

Yes, been in the alps so will report in next weeks post but it has been excellent.

Not much to say about last week Did some gym some climbing and only two runs. Rested for a couple of days before the alps then:

Sat: travel

Sun: first acclimatisation day hiking up to the summit of the Mettelhorn (3406m) from Zermatt.

To be continued...


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