News First Ascent of Fixation 8c+ at Malham Cove by Steve McClure
Steve McClure has completed Neil Gresham's open project on Malham Cove's Upper Tier. The line, which Steve has named Fixation, is an 8c+ extension of the classic 7c+ L'Obsession.
Another milestone hitting 650 this week - not long until 666, for those who are still tracking devilish goals!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
Last week’s thread can be found here:
Powderpuff - how far is the wall? Do you feel the run helps you warm up (I suspect for me it would finish any hope of even pulling on, but I’m aware that not everyone has the same relationship with running that I do!)?
Somerset Swede Basher - not much to add to your thoughts on recovery, save that I suspect volume of hard climbing is trainable in itself, partially because I often find in the spring after a winter of short outdoor days and couple of hour walk sessions that I struggle to maintain my level for the longer days. Are you back at home now?
outdoors.nick - disaster! How’s the foot getting on?
Tyler - sounds like a good week - nice job on the E3, and what sounds like some good variety across the week as well
ianstevens - nice one on the Tempest!
Steve Jones - The bike mileage ought to earn y.ouna certain amount of junk food, right? Looks to be a busy and varied week even despite a lack of running.
Niall_li - nice job on Eat It, well done! First 7A is a big milestone as well! How much is there in the “not too hard” category at Fairhead, and is that 5s or 6s (and are the landings all tough?). Didn’t try bouldering when there in June, but my friends who did said it was good...
AlanLittle - how was the granite? Interesting thoughts on the goals - have they progressed? In terms of fingerboarding versus bouldering - I think bouldering specific to the style of your likely routes is probably better, but then if your bouldering is fairly non-specific in style and your projects quite specific in style (I mean, open pockets probably) then I’d maybe lean towards fingerboarding as being a more essential tool to bring some of the specificity back.
Ally Smith - are your 8mm edges the micros? I’ve realised I have no idea what my exact progress on them was in the spring, I don’t seem to have saved it, but +15 is pretty meaty. Any more progress in the project? Glad the scrambling went ok - high risk though given previous ;)
biscuit - how hard is KoK? Never climbed at Craig Arthur but always thought the trad looked good....
the sheep - every time I look at your swim volume I think of the number of lengths I do in a pool before my shoulders start to ache and am somewhat dumbstruck!
Liamhutch89 - welcome! Outdoor mileage is definitely a thing to prioritise isn’t it...
Ardo - that is indeed a big peak walk! Nice active varied week, good stuff. Route highlight?
SFrancis - Did you whip on the first or second pitch? (Wondering if dragonflies mean the top pitch has some gear now)? Will you be going back for Nosferatu in better connies?
mattrm - any sign of calm on the horizon yet?
Lornajkelly - bank holiday traffic eh? Have you led stuff before (is this picking it up again, or picking it up from the first time?)? How’s the couch to 5k been going?
Bones [:B - I await this week’s update with interest!
A quiet one for me.
Monday I reported last week - last day in Pembroke doing Ultravixens
Nothing during the week
Didnt go out Friday - tides not really good for dws
saturday - an hour or so walk lugging the child. Went to the playground in the afternoon where my mate deemed the kids climbing wall to be plausible aero training terrain - May have to investigate this one day!
sunday - a bit of swimming. As usual, inefficiency increasing the effort per length...
Away this coming weekend, so it may be another non climbing week. Been meaning to have a go at planning out the last days of freedom (by mid October, I’ll probably be having to stay close to home) to try to maximise the possibility of getting some good stuff done. Also starting to idly think about what the priorities for what training I’ll be able to do over the winter should be.....
> outdoors.nick - disaster! How’s the foot getting on?
Yesterday was my first day without crutches. Still sore but can weight it now and walk for a bit. Should be back to normal soon. Gasping to get out climbing though.
In the meantime I've been down to the swimming pool a couple of times and been working on my pull ups at home. Figured out I can do roughly 30 pull ups in 4 sets before I'm completely toasted. Also figured out that my 1 rep max for pull ups is +18kg. Thats just under 2kg shy of 1/3 of my bodyweight. Will be interesting to see how that changes.
> how was the granite?
Pleasant. Small crags but great rock quality, beautiful landscape. And quiet - we saw one other team in two days, on a weekend when I'm sure the Frankenjura will have been absolutely rammed. Not a major destination by any means, but certainly worth more than one visit for a semi-local like me.
I was slightly misled and disappointed about the degree of trad-ness, which was definitely lacking. Apparently for that you have to go further north and deeper into the forest then we did. But took steps to compensate; see Sunday.
STG: Get back on some local projects.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2, no chance.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60. This is looking pretty unfeasible too, see below.
M: Bike one hour
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Utterly dismal session, struggling on 6b's. Might as well not have bothered.
*** New Plan Needed ***
W: Bike one hour.
T: *** New Plan ***
My fingerboarding approach has never really been systematic(*). I have tended to regard it as something to do that's better than nothing if I'm not able to make it to the wall for whatever reason, and then I just go hard to whatever my limit seems to be on the day, and am happy when I occasionally hit a pb and less happy when I con't match whatever I did last time. All very well, but ...
Time for more Science. Did the lattice/crimpd max hang benchmarking session today to establish a baseline for a more systematic approach. Am at 81½ kgs bodyweight + 16 added = 120% for 7 seconds on the Medium Edge on my home BM 1000 (**) Both hands obvsly.
* Except the time when I projected the original beastmaker "5A" routine for a year, unsuccessfully. I was bouldering around 6B at the time
** Which I know from previous experiments is around 10kg less grippy than a nicely worn in public one, but for the sake of consistent trackability I'm not caring about that
Bike one hour.
S: Bayerischer Wald - east Bavarian granite. Still reduced to projecting 6b, but at least today the 6b was three stars' worth of immaculate granite instead of plastic.
S: Bayerischer Wald - east Bavarian granite. Proper granite climbing today: a friction slab & a couple of hand cracks. The friction slab was the crux of a 6c+, done in a couple of goes in pre-thunderstorm 30 degree heat and 100% humidity. Quite proud of this. And, having found the first crack easier than expected, did the seond one clean on cams (doing my best to ignore the bolts in a live re-enactment of every idiotic retrobolting discussion on every climbing forum ever)
Seems like it only takes one decent day to feel like the end might not be quite so nigh after all.
KoK is E5 6b. Great route and the whole wall there is similar with striking lines in the E4 - 5 range.
Monday - reported last week. LPT. Promising blast up Nightglue. Feel I coulda/shoulda got it if i'd had time for another go.
Tuesday - rest day after 4 days on.
Wednesday - New core and conditioning routine. Owch! Little climb at the depot whilst coaching.
Thursday - one quick route at the end of work
Friday - windiest day ever at stanage. Too windy to try anything hard. Led and seconded a few cracking VS's. Had a go at a HVS 5b crack that turns out to be an E1 5c and a sandbag at that Surprise (E1 5c).
Saturday - 40mph gusts and torrential downpours don't stop us round here! Found possibly the only dry crag for miles at Giggleswick South. Tried Out of the Limelight (7a+) clipping up it and then gave it a top rope. All seemed good so I had a go on lead only to realise I hadn't got the beta for the third clip and I bottled it. Shame! Gave it another couple of goes on TR to sort beta.
Sunday- back today in even worse conditions. Despite a successful ascent for my mate (after an impressive lob from the wet and muddy final holds) the team psyche didn't carry through for me. I knew from the first warm up I was running on empty. I had a couple of TR goes but couldn't hold the lower moves at all today and they were easy enough yesterday. 3rd day on fatigue? But also failing to get my food right to help recovery. It's a very powerful route and took more out of me than I realised.
So still no training for the BOB but i'm not going to turn down outdoor days for training. I feel like things are on the verge of coming back together. I've come close to 2 7a+ in a day ascents and finally feel like I've rediscovered my outdoor feet. I've also learnt a lot about my diet and recovery.
I may have a couple of days off now. It is needed but also due to burning my hand on a pan this evening. Oops! This week should give some opportunities to train indoors.
Core conditioning routine - x2
Diet - 100g of protein daily and 2g creatine
Indoor training x2
Thanks for the stats AJM. I've not found that but pretty much all my sessions are short (2hrs max), so maybe I'd be wiped out quickly if I went for a big day!
Mon. 8km Road run.
Tues. Long drive north then a quick session at the cemetary Park boulder where I only succeeded in tearing 3 flappers in one go and catching my ankle on the edge of the pad.
Wed. Rest - ankle feels fine today. Happy days.
Thurs. Superglued flappers down then taped up. Back to cemetery park as short on time where I did the hardest 7A ever (it's taken me two sessions and I only just got it then!) suitably humbled.
Sat. Went to try 3 problems at Anston Stones which I've previously failed on. Got one of them Alpha (f7B) which I was pleased with.
Sun. 18km run from Glossop taking in the Yellowslacks Brook and Torside Gully scrambles. Legs just about OK but generally pretty weary and low on energy after this, slow evening and lots of eating.
> KoK is E5 6b. Great route and the whole wall there is similar with striking lines in the E4 - 5 range
Are you talking about the one in Anglezarke? It is every inch E6!
Thank you for stepping up to the plate AJM
M: Rockover, discovered their auto belay so had a play on that after performing risibly on the boulders
T: Tired so did nothing
W: Usual weights routine, no improvement but possible less rest
T: Depot Sheff on way home. Mostly on circuit board, nearly did a 7a+ but that was it.
S: Rockover, shorter session than I would have liked due to poor skin
Finding it increasingly difficult to do stuff at wall as I become more immobile. Will try to improve that and use more autobelays where available
Thanks for the stats Andy :-D
8mm edges are Beastmaker micro rip-offs from eBay - you can buy them as individual sizes instead of the whole set too, making them further value. +15kg felt suitably meaty - only doing these hangs are part of my peaking cycle in time for Send-tember, should it ever come...
M – DIY - undercoat painting in the final room. Achy legs from Snowdon Horseshoe – foam roller. A few shoulder movements in front of TV: Nothing I can call “training”.
T – Lunchtime Compex abs & thigh recovery. Pretty big evening session - aero-power/an-cap crossover: 10/3@60% (+13kg) to exhaustion. 164s not too shabby, but also a fair way off previous bests (~190s). Decay curve was pretty good though. 5x5 wide & fast pull-ups at 5kg. 15x 7/3/6/1@40% (-22.5kg). 6x 15s bat-hangs. Very brief test of OHP. 5x 41.5kg + bar.
W – Eric Horst tendon rehab. Groin physio and foam rollering.
T – Devil’s Gorge. Scary dogging on rusty bolts on Echoes (7a+), then briefly worked the extension. Next go, managed to do a slow and static over-gripping ascent of the start (felt borderline E5) then smashed the extension to give a nice 7c/+; still looking for a name, as the crag admin rejected the divisive “52% believed the lies”. “Warmed down” with a retro-flash of Broccoliland (7c+). Fitness seems to have come together nicely, but I’m still moving a bit poorly due to the groin strain.
F – Pre-work Eric Horst tendon rehab, then after work rings and tendon density lockoffs & hangs.
S – 10hours of shopping! We both failed to find any clothes that fit us - is the climber physique such a rarity on the high street?!?
S – 2 coats of paint, split by 45min gentle spin on the bike; predictably, it rained right as we left the house! Groin physio.
Since when did crag admins get the idea that somebody appointed them as route naming censors? Disgraceful
We need to get back to a scribble in a notebook in a cafe being the definitive truth for all eternity
Thanks! Time to come up with my new STGs I think :D
There's loads of great 5s and 6s (and there'll be even more when the new guidebook in out at the end of the year), compared to other places i've bouldered i'd say the grades are on the hard side, but consistent in the area. Landings vary quite a bit, there are some that are grand, others not so much. Generally speaking you'd want a couple of pads, I bring a big organic, podsacs pad and an alpkit phud which has felt like plenty for anything i've been on so far. You should definitely give it a go, particularly the Fairhead weekend when there's loads of ppl and pads about!
STG - climb 2 7As in font (heading off on Friday for 2 weeks!)
MTG - 7B & Carbide 7A (aiming to get Carbide before the end of the year)
LTG - 8A
Not a great weeks training for me, niggly injuries popping up
M - Climbfit
T - Rest
W - Went for my morning fingerboard and pulled something in my bicep doing some pull ups to warm up. Tried to work through it, did 4 hangs with + 17.5KG (which fingerwise felt grand) but arm was unhappy so knocked it on the head, also bailed on climbing that evening to rest it
T - Rest
F - AM fingerboarding. +7.5kg on the 2 finger pockets on BM1000 and +15kg on the lower rung half crimp. (tried the 17.5KG but wasn't happening that day). Tried 15kg pinches, but my thumb on my right hand wasn't having it, so left it
Sa - Wedding, drinks
Su - Christening
Currently have an unhappy thumb and my sprained ankle is still lurking. No show stoppers, but not the time to start breaking down!
Thanks for doing the doing the stats.
The whip was on the first pitch ha, the second pitch didn't look very appealing and looked distinctly unprotectable. So bailed after the first pitch.
As for Nosferatu, well its played on my mind, its good positive holds, but once you set off there's no turning around. Probably should have waited for it to be in good conditions before trying it as now I will have the added pressure of walking in to do it rather than having a look, and also my belayer will need convincing as the agenda will be pretty clear.
Week 26th - 01st
M: One of my friends had fallen off Bond Street (HVS 5a), so we convinced him to give it another ago, he fought his way through the crux and got the tick. I then headed round to do Great West Road (E3 5b) again, unbelievably the crack and the wall you smear on were soaking wet. I attempted it anyway but my feet were slipping everywhere so I gave up, pissed off. I was then convinced to go round and set up a TR on Edge Lane (E5 5c), it's an absolutely stunning line and its not something I'm probably ever going to justify an o/s attempt, so I did. Fell off the start once but landed firmly on the ground, and then climbed all the way to the top, (can you claim the TR o/s if you hit the ground). Brilliant climbing, and the crux is right at the top, and its a psychological one. I think if i were to lead, I would like something to fit in the bore holes (mid height and bottom), and get my belayer ready to run, and then I think you would probably be ok. I think I will go back to this one....
W: 10 mins ARC, FB max hangs - 94kg, Ancap boulders, TRX - Forward I, crunches, supermans, reverse Ys, 1min on/off. Drove up to cumbria for friend's 30th.
T: Attempted to go climbing, drove to a couple of crags, and they were wet. Drove to Sheperds crag and everyone had same idea no parking so had to head back. 6km run.
F: Wet. Headed to Kendal Wall, got to be the best wall ive been to. Started bouldering, did a few from the V6 up circuit, and one from the hardest circuit (v7 up) Pretty happy with that, must be a tad soft, then found the "routing roof" a ~10m ~45 deg roof, brilliant I wish my local had a roof like this. Did the 7a+ route first go and the 7b+ route after a few attempts at the last hard move. Was having so much fun we ran out of time to go for a lead on the huge wall, which was annoying. Possibly overdid it as discomfort returned after a pain free week.
S: Quick dip in a very chilly Ullswater.
S: Nipped out on a solo mission to Carrock Fell, most things damp, found Badger Attack (V5) was dry so went and got pad. Arrived, set up pad, heavens opened with heavy downpour. Soaked everything so packed up and headed home empty handed.
How about 'lost democracy' if you are looking for a political themed name?
Sorry for recent absence but moving between Oxford and The Peak has thrown my training plans out of whack a bit. Trying to get back into a rhythm.
Last week -
Last day in Pembroke, the one advantage of being in Oxford is that it's *only* a 3.5 hour drive...
* The Arrow (E1 5b) Onsight lead and the only one I really had on my list. Laced it bottom to top (what's all that fuss about there being no gear on the bottom section - there's loads!) but otherwise no real difficulty. It's a tremendous route despite the obvious traffic, and another tick off Caff's E1 list.
* Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) Second. After seconding Heart of Darkness/New Morning (E1 5b) earlier in the week I'd had my fill of horizontal climbing by this point.
Bouldering @Depot Sheffield. did some of the new Pink league problems and a "Style Triad" from the Crimpd App.
Bouldering @ Substation Macclesfield. First visit to what is now the closest indoor wall to my house - really impressed. Certainly a bit more variety than the Depot problems.
WiltonFest. Didn't climb anything, but belayed Matt 'Fiend' Thompson up Falling Crack (E2 5b) and noted it for a future lead attempt. Never been to the Wilton quarries before but there's a lot of quality there. Did some max hangs on the Beastmaker when I got home.
Accompanying my Grandad at the Veterans Reunion at Bletchley, so paid a second visit to Big Rock Bond. Did a 6x6 endurance session. Probably slightly more pumped than I should be for this kind of session but it was a good workout.
A bit more structure needed to the indoor sessions, focusing on Strength and Endurance mostly. The Crimpd App is proving really useful for these. Get outside. Revisit my goals for the year.
Sport climbing trip to Antalya at beginning of November, aim to RP 7a. Strength and Endurance for the next month before shifting to AeroPow workouts.
The Leg. Still haven't made an appointment to get the metalwork removed, need to sort this ASAP. As it stands I won't manage any of the walkins necessary for Scottish Winter.
> > KoK is E5 6b. Great route and the whole wall there is similar with striking lines in the E4 - 5 range
> Are you talking about the one in Anglezarke? It is every inch E6!
Yes that' the one. It was a chance to top rope something hard as a workout and the seed of optimism was sewn to turn it into a headpoint. Mainly as I could see there was gear to be had. It's like Wilton Wall on steroids. Time will tell if that actually happens or not. 3* climb for me. Lovely moves.
I had a TR with some I consider a proper wad and neither of us could find a sequence through the bottom crack. Other people don't struggle though so maybe it's a bit conditionsy....
Hello! I've decided to take the plunge and see where a training regime and some focus will lead me. As a bit of background, I've been climbing for around 6 years and I've definitely plateaued in the mid-high 6's and around HVS/E1. I'm hitting the big 50 this year so rather than continue to potter along, I'd like to see where I can get to with 12 months of dedication to climbing. So, goals -
STG (1 month) - create a regular training regime and stick to it. Aim is to get myself used to a structured training routine, and identify where I can find time to do it.
MTG (4 months) - Be unafraid to attempt a route I might fail on. Fear of failure is a problem for me, not massive but certainly holds me back sometimes. Get on rock as much as possible, even if it's just doing traverses when the weather allows.
LTG (12 months) - Suppose this should be grade orientated so I have a measurement, so 12 months from now I expect to be on-sighting E1/E2 comfortably and red pointing 7b.
I'm signing up to a training program with a professional climber, someone I worked with for a day last year. It'll be a mixture of 1-1 sessions at a crag, Skype and working through a training plan between sessions. I know I needs goals to motivate myself, and working with someone will provide those. Should be starting this at the beginning of October.
It's a bit intimidating to commit to all of the above, but also really exciting.
Last week -
M - dog walking, 4 miles - hills. Pindale quarry and The Balcony. Mainly putting up a top rope for my other half but nice to be on rock anyway. Nothing harder than a 5+.
T - dog walking, 4 miles - hills
W - 4x4's at AW Stockport
T - dog walking, 4 miles - hills
F - nothing
S - Indoor (Rock Over), power endurance followed by bouldering session. Ticked a V5 which felt good for the grade.
S - Mountain biking - covered around 20 miles, hit as many up-hills as possible.
> the sheep - every time I look at your swim volume I think of the number of lengths I do in a pool before my shoulders start to ache and am somewhat dumbstruck!
Thank you, I have happily got to the stage where my body is just used to swimming so can pop to the pool at lunch time, get my swim in and be back in my office non the worse for wear. Running however is a different matter and I sweat like mad and feel knackered in no time
Monday, morning 7km trail run then friends over for a bbq in the afternoon. Lots of food beer and wine!
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 5km evening run. Now the kids are back into at school swim training routine this is going to be my 5k pace progression test whilst the eldest swims.
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 2km lunchtime swim and stretch class
Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 17.5km run home from work
Saturday, went to do Parkrun with the kids with our running friends as it was part of the Pride festival. First one for all of us. Unfortunately the route was 3 loops so the faster runners caught up with the slower ones after a while and both my youngest daughters got bumped out of the way by runners charging through the pack, one of them was knocked to the ground too. Really shit behaviour from the lead runners especially as the kids are only 9 and 11. We canned it after 2.5 km!
Sunday, nice 7.5km trail run
Thanks for driving the fit club bus this week!
I think you'd be fine with this run it's only 3/4 of a mile ... .sounds more impressive than it is;-)
Tue: early morning session ran to wall for 7am. Re climbed v4,v4,v5 ...felt tired. 3 sets of 20 press ups and sit ups, 3 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls. Theraband for shoulders to finish....still only 930am, today is a good day.
Wed: went to the wall. New set of problems. Climbed two v3 and two v4 problems and worked a v5.
Sunday: 8 max hangs on fingerboad. 3 sets of 20 sit ups. 2 sets of 10 leg raises. Pull ups lost count how many...oh poo.
Weight 11st 12 , I appear to have put on 5 pounds in a week. Beer, chocolate, crisps and inactivity do not help with weight lose it seems... bloody shocking :-0
Forgot to say, aim in September is to climb a v6
> Steve Jones - The bike mileage ought to earn y.ouna certain amount of junk food, right? Looks to be a busy and varied week even despite a lack of running.
Aye, it wasn't a bad week - this last week however . . .
M - Donkey's Ears (S) - that off-width bit was great!
T/W/T - Nothing - my excuse bing a flat tyre on my bike, but as it was the front it shouldn't have stopped me getting on the turbo trainer.
F - 75 mins turbo trainer intervals followed by a little over 2 hours at the wall. Met a chap celebrating his 60th year of climbing!
S - Mates wedding - drank far to much
S - 90 mins interval sesison on turbo trainer
Diet has been shocking, not just the wedding. No additional strength/flex work done either.
Typed a whole load and then deleted it. Sorry for AWOL. I have in between cankle and family stuff done a bit including some nice beach and rock.
Archangel - Black Head
Long Traverse - LQP
Misc 6C sitter - Bone Hill
Gates of Eden - Daddyhole
By calculation I have swum at 9 different beaches this year (yes Andy I'm spuriously counting Portland January dip as swimming!) so maybe that's something.
Need to write some new goals as family/cankle have destroyed 666.
> Ardo - that is indeed a big peak walk! Nice active varied week, good stuff. Route highlight?
Thanks for stat-ting AJM. Climbed nothing with more than 2 stars, so nothing stand out: Rigor Mortis at Stanage was a favourite, being a reyt bar-steward VS and Exit Stage Left for my approach to the climb.
Mo: Peak District walking, 20.7 miles, walking off cricket booze.
Tu: General walking, 9.8 miles.
We: General walking, 12.1 miles. Park walk and LDW packing.
Th: LD walking, 20.0 miles. Day 1 on Wolds Way.
Fr: LD walking, 26.0 miles. Day 2 on Wolds Way.
Sa: LD walking, 19.0 miles. Day 3 on Wolds Way.
Su: LD walking, 10.3 miles. Day 4 on Wolds Way.
Weight: 10st 7lb/bf 16.2%
Walking and more walking. Wolds Way: aim was to complete in 4 days as training and practice for potential GR20, but picked up injury caused by an insect bite! C’est la vie. Managed to finish the walk, so coming week/s will be rehab, rehab walking, climbing and having a think about a plan for the rest of the month.
Next week's plan
Do more work on van/flat.
Flipping heck, they'll let anyone join this club!! ;-) Welcome aboard chief.
I know, no background check or anything!
> Bones [:B - I await this week’s update with interest!
Had a brilliant time in the Alps last week. One of those weeks that just seemed to go well weather-wise and also plan-wise. After the initial warm-up day on Sunday we did:
Mon: We summited Breithorn (4164m), which was a short snow slog. Then we walked a few hours to stay in the Rossi e Volante Bivvy Hut near Pollux/Castor to sleep at height and try to acclimatise a little more.
Tues: We did Pollux (4092m) which was more of a short scramble and snow slope before walking for a few hours back to the cable car.
Weds: rest day
Thurs: rest day and a few hours of via ferrata and Matterhorn planning
Fri: Walk to Hornli hut and then a few hours checking out the route on the Matterhorn. Was told in no uncertain terms by some random with no knowledge of our experience: 'do not climb the Matterhorn without a guide'. Pah.
Sat: Hornli ridge up the Matterhorn (4478m) - 8hrs 45mins then hike back to the cable car
This week I am back at the gym and running to prepare for a 10 mile run in October. Also, need to up my game for my 666 goal of front lever as progress has really slowed on this.
Could be many peoples perfect week!
Managed 2 outdoor sessions this week and 3 fingerboard sessions. Max hangs up 2.5kg
Managed to put away demon wall roof f7A+ after feeling like it was way beyond me and 'not my style' just a few weeks ago. Felt easy when it went too! As bad as it may sound I think one of the things that helped most was seeing videos of people I know do it who I can keep up with indoors. That made me believe I was capable.
Next week I would like to do cruel arete 7C (never been 7C) at caley roadside and the prow 7B at caley crag, as well as building up my base of 7A's and ticking a few more.
Also wanting to work Scary Canary 7B+ and the Keel 7C!
It was pretty incredible! Very lucky.
STG - 14st
MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 5lbs
M - Rest
T - 3 mile walk
F - S - Rest
Work was still busy and for various reasons I didn't get out and do any walking (chimney was being swept).
Steve McClure has completed Neil Gresham's open project on Malham Cove's Upper Tier. The line, which Steve has named Fixation, is an 8c+ extension of the classic 7c+ L'Obsession.