/ UKC Fit Club week 651

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AJM 08 Sep 2019

Morning all from Bruges, where I have been experimenting with a trial membership of Beer Club rather than Fit Club. The training sessions seem a bit less of a slog than climbing training, so I’m certainly giving it consideration!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502  

Last week’s thread can be found here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_650-709548

Posters: 

AJM

outdoors.nick - you seem to have been making productive use of the downtime, but I can imagine you must be itching to get back in the game now!

AlanLittle - my experience of granite slabs is fairly limited, but they always feel nails, so 6c+ in 100% humidity seems like a solid performance to me! Where do you now sit then, following your trad climbing exploits - bolt it all up, you can always just climb past the bolts!?

biscuit - how’s the hand? When the psyches there, it’s all about prioritising the outdoors really isn’t it?

Somerset Swede Basher - couple of decent runs in there, and always good to get some more ticks in. Was the 7A antistyle, sandbag or both?

Tyler - the mobility versus indoors thing - is that just the setting style of indoor stuff versus the sort of thing you get on outside?

Ally Smith - I checked back and I was on +3kg on the 8mm. I remember at the time thinking they were a bit painful to make a regular training tool, think a bit of it for peaking might be good as you say but I’m assuming the 10mm will be the workhorses of the set for me. What name did you go for in the end?

Niall_li - good luck in the forest!

SFrancis - I’d have similar feelings about Edge Lane - super line, but I’m just not that bold any more...!

Planetmarshall - arrow is great isn’t it. I was really glad I did Riders - day before you - excellent fun I thought...

Paul16 - welcome! Have you any route in mind for your goals?

the sheep- that sounds like lousy behaviour. I hope it hasn’t put the kids off...

Powderpuff - I’m not so sure I would! I’m dreading the scales when I get back from this weekend. Assuming you mean outdoors, do you have anything in mind for the V6?

Steve Jones - it’s easy to duck the turbo though, right? I went through a phase of doing a fair bit of cycling a few years ago, but I could only ever really do it outside, I just don’t have the motivation for anything much indoors, so definitely started each year massively unfit and anything big had to happen in September once I had the miles in my legs...

Rebecca Ting - a selected highlights list is better than nothing - did you add anything to it this week?

Ardo - that’s a lot of walking! Was that with tent and stuff too?

Bones [:B - nice one, big summit there (plus a few other high ones too!). I did the breithorn traverse years ago, probably my last proper alps trip, because it had a nice short approach. Remember a glorious day spent lazing in the bivvy hut at the far end having got there quite early to ensure we had a space...

Liamhutch89 - nice job on Demon Wall Roof!

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biscuit 08 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Thanks for doing this early in the morning on holiday. 

The hand is good now thanks and yes when I've got the free time (and weather) outside will always win. That's the way it should be! 

Bit of a plan now and a format I can follow and see if i'm hitting what I say I will and what I need to do.

The general plan is to get stronger over Winter then sport climbing in spring through to Summer and then see what happens with trad.

Long term goals

7c in 2020 – route to be decided. Would make sense to look at Chapel Head/Hollywood bowl

7B (outdoors) in 2020 – probably at Trowbarrow. Ned’s Problem and Yin Yang would be good problems in differing styles.

Medium Goals 2-6 mths (Nov to April)

Costa Blanca trip after Xmas. 9 days of climbing potentially.

Onsight 7a x 4

RP 7b in a day

After trip change back to strength training until end of Feb.

666 fit club goals

6 x V6 slabs – 1 done

6 x V6 vert – 2 done

6 x V6 steep – 4 done

To be done at BUK for ‘proper’ grades

Short term goals 1-2 mths (to mid Nov)

Battle of Britain 19th October

Rehab left shoulder in time for BOB

Rehab niggly elbows in time for BOB

Leg strengthening. Pistol squats bi laterally by BOB (can do one (ish) on my right leg only atm). I've got last at this recently.

After BOB change to fitness for Spanish trip - need some indoor circuit/route goals at this point

Do some aerobic fitness every climbing session

Diet– DQS 25+ per day. 100g+ protein.

Last week

I aggravated my left shoulder again with 4 days on and it took a couple of days to settle.

My performance in the Depot league has got worse and worse every round. In fairness I normally get a couple of goes at each round and this time I’ve only had one, but my shoulder has been affecting me more than I thought when I look back at it.

Mon/Tue – rest. Shoulder and legs done

Wed – Bike ride. 40k 750m. Good to be back on the bike. Recovery hangs.

Thurs - had a boulder at BUK to test shoulder out. It went OK. Flashed some V5’s found some others the living end. Could feel a niggle so called it quits early. Felt like I was moving quite well though. Shoulder/legs done.

Fri – Shoulder rehab and fingerboard test session. Hmmm. Fingers used to be my strong point.

Saturday – shoulder and leg

Sunday – Just about to go for a short run, shoulder

Diet - over 25 DQS and 100g protein for 5/7 days. But the days I missed I didn’t miss by much.

This week:

Doing this to then compare what I manage and don’t manage.

Mon – Rd 4 of The Depot SBL before coaching. Circuits. Shoulder. Legs. Evening bike ride.

Tue – BUK climb. Target V6’s. Circuits.

Wed – Depot Rd 4 or possible return to Giggleswick S to finish the 7a+ off. If outside then do some easy circuits before or after coaching

Thur – Shoulder. Legs. Recovery hangs

Fri – Shoulder. Legs. Max hangs

Sat – Rest

Sun – Conditioning and general bouldering whilst coaching

Post edited at 07:32
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In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the stats AJM. Didn't think it was antistyle so I guess I just climbed it really really badly! First week back at work after the summer hols this week so much reduced mileage but when i did get out I managed to go BIG...

Mon-wed. Busy with work but also pretty tired after the long Sunday run. Did about 11km on the road bike to lose up on the Mon.

Thurs. Went to The Tor and managed to tick Tumbleweed F8A (links don't seem to work today). This was a bit of a surprise! I just warmed up then did it first go. I've lost count of how many sessions I spent on this back in the spring and last autumn. Must have been an exceptionally low gravity day as I almost ticked LGRTR too falling off moving to the last hold which is a new high point by about 3 moves

Fri. Rest/working

Sat. Went to Anston but was tired after Thurs and working. Did managed to tick Fawks 7B but powered out quickly so called it a day and came home.

Sun.15km family ride on the mtb.

Post edited at 19:33
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AlanLittle 08 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Well, Belgium does have a strong claim to the world's second best beer after Bavaria. Bit deficient in other aspects compared to the Frankenjura though.

STG: Get back on some local projects, weather permitting. Which it didn't this week.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project. Currently: 2, no chance.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60. This is looking pretty unfeasible, rethink ongoing.

M: 
T am:    Beastmaker. Crimpd max hangs routine. Only 90% of the benchmark level I established last week, how hard can that be? Hard. Only managed 8 seconds instead of 10 on sets 5 & 6. According to the app this is about the right level.
T pm: Wall, Thalkirchen. Fortunately for a gentle run-in to my cunning new two-a-day training plan, first Tuesday in the month is newcomers' night for the DAV group I hang with and I found myself nursemaiding a beginner. Nice guy, attentive enough belayer, and I still managed to get ten routes in at around 6a/+, and be quite tired by the end of them.
W: Bike one hour; stretching
T am: Beastmaker. Crimpd max hangs attempt / total fail. Clear from the start that this wasn't going to work, that only ~30 hours since I climbed    on Tuesday was nowhere near enough recovery. I want to try to fit in two fingerboard sessions a week without compromising actual climbing time, but clearly need to give a bit more thought to how/whether this is possible.
T pm: Wall, Thalkirchen. Went mainly to meet up with folks to discuss our alpine plans for the weekend (weather related cancellation of), but also put in an hour of very desultory bouldering. I think I'll need a bit of experimentation to establish how the rhythm of the two-a-day plan is going to work, or whether it is even really viable.
F:
S: Had planned/organised a DAV weekend trip to a hut in the Bavarian Alps, but a forecast of continuous rain (or snow down to around 1500) put an end to that. Did some chores at home and another attempt at the crimpd max hangs routine. Still need to figure out how to work this, three times a week being clearly too many
S: Wall, Freimann. Pleasantly surprised that I wasn't really feeling yesterday's fingerboarding. A dozen routes, mostly mileage around 6b but also two goes on a rather nice 7a, which I one-hanged second go but was too tired for a third attempt.
 

Post edited at 19:48
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Tyler 08 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

> the mobility versus indoors thing - is that just the setting style of indoor stuff versus the sort of thing you get on outside?

Not so much but partly, it's mainly that falling off on to hard mats is painful/exhausting. Obviously the modern type of setting doesn't play to my, erm, strengths. Only being able to raise my right foot 10 inches off the ground means I can't even start a lot of problems and I know to try hard once off the ground will usually involve at least one discomforting high step so it's hard to get psyched to try hard. Lead walls would be good but the logistics are usually awkward. 

This week is an easy one to recount. Did nothing all week. Work was shit and I'm already down in Corby again for this week having spent a lot of the weekend working (and updating my CV!)

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AJM 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Well, Belgium does have a strong claim to the world's second best beer after Bavaria.

Ah, but the Belgians have variety - that Bavarian purity law has something to answer for - a good fruit beer is pretty good!

A quiet week for fit club, because as noted I went on a Beer Club training camp in Bruges. Packing for that plus work deadlines put paid to anything else. However, around the beer it has been a fair amount of effort - everything is cobbled, and therefore pushing a pram is a lot harder work than usual, plus miniAJM is less than wholly keen on it which has meant a reasonably amount of carrying either on shoulders (moderate effort) or in arms (more effort). That plus a reasonable amount of ground covered means I feel like I've done alright.

Thursday - travel to London after woek

Friday - Eurostar to Brussels and connecting train to Bruges. Lots of ambling round grazing mercilessly on chips, waffles and chocolate

- 1x tasting flight; 1x Bourgogne de Flanders

Saturday - boat ride, lunch at a pub with a 400 beer tome for a menu (the paralysis of indecision was a problem here!), out to the windmills, trip up a windmill (interesting albeit I'm sure not h&s approved for children in the UK!), walk back.

- 1x Bruges Zot; 1x Rochefort Trappist 8; 1x Straffe Hendrick Quadrupel

Sunday - chocolate museum, snacky lunch with beer, post lunch beer, shopping at the bottle shop, back home for a little collapse, then out for dinner later on.

- 2x tasting flights; 1x Chouffre Blonde

Home today so will report the last bit next week.

After a few non-climbing weekends, I've got a day per weekend plus some odd Fridays for the next few to try to get out a bit more before the weather draws in. Got a few things lined up.....

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Paul16 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM.

I've got a few trad targets which have been lurking on my wish list for a while. Safety Net, Shortcomings, Topaz, San Melas being a few at the Roaches. Also, my nemesis seems to be Requiem for Tired Fingers at Back Forest so that's going! I should get those ticked off this winter, after that I'll see where I'm at. Sure I could have done those before now but I've been 'saving' them for the on sight. I need to choose some sports 6c's and 7a's to work over the winter. Being in Macclesfield I should be able to find those within an hour of home.

M - MTB, 7.5 miles, 1600 feet of ascent. Sessioned some downhill in the forest. The uphill's still make my lungs creak but managed some steep sections I couldn't previously so progress!

T - Recovery - TheraBand for shoulders, pushups 5 x 10

W - 4x4's at Awesome walls. Average 6a+, first 3 were either vertical or overhanging. Feeling a bit crappy/tired so the final set was on a slab!

T - rest

F - Bike to work, 24 mile round trip on a mountain bike with fat tyres!

S - Power endurance @ the Chapel. Included a core session and finished with push-ups and squats. Cruised the 6b circuit, which previously shut me down every time.

S - Tweaked something in my lower back on Sat, so just some dog walking in the hills to try and ease it. Ate too much, feeling sorry for myself.


I need to start recording my weight, and stop eating whatever is to hand when I'm hungry. Coaching starts 12th October so the next month is all about sticking to regular training and hard wiring the habit.
 

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Ally Smith 09 Sep 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Thurs. Went to The Tor and managed to tick Tumbleweed F8A (links don't seem to work today). This was a bit of a surprise! I just warmed up then did it first go.

:-D Nice work Swede! :-D

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Ally Smith 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Morning yer olde beer soake!

I named the Devil's Gorge newbie "52% believed the lies" but the crag admin has thrown it back at me saying political names aren't appropriate - what tosh!

Week 36

M – Devil’s Gorge; rushed evening session. Dogged project and fine tuned boulder sequence. RP attempt: Underworld felt easier, but still a bit pumped at the belay. Smashed on, got higher than previous efforts, failed on first move of new crux. Hung for 2min, then smashed through to GC chains. 1-hang 😊 Second attempt, felt smeggy on the lower wall. Pulled up to the roof and did boulder crux with a few intro moves. Good progress but felt cheated on second go as had too little rest and connies had deteriorated.

T – DG didn’t feel like much volume, so repeated 10:3 an-cap hangs from last week. Big progress, suggesting that it’s much closer to the aero-power regime than an-cap? 202s PB at 13.5kg. First time >200s threshold Tom had previously stated to be “good” an-cap. Decay curve good also, steady-state and not crashing out.

W – Sweet FA. Groin physio and foam rollering.

T – Was going to do some max hangs, but didn't feel fully recovered from Tuesday, so just did the micros session. 8mm @+16kg. Hard. Not painful though, and nor do they rag my skin too much. 5x5 pull-ups on-the-minute at 13kg wide-grip. 6x7reps OHP@34.5kg(+bar). 4x8rep rows with same weight. Feeling a bit peeky afterwards.

F – Rest & groin physio and foam rollering. Beer & whisky.

S – Snotty overnight - mild lurgy. Orme with hms (previously of this parish). Got unnervingly pumped on the 6b warm-up. Moved hideously clunkily dogging Cold Blood (didn’t do the crux – stripped it). Watched hms & Dan smash their 7a+’s before moving around to St Tudno’s into the sun. Started moving better after a 2nd 6b warm-up. After a few goes pulled another FA out of the bag. “Fatty” 7c+? Very boulder start, 7B with a clip mid crux, followed by a 6c trundle. 6a+ warm-down. Beer & whisky.

S – Still a bit snotty overnight. Multi venue day. Stoney; Scoop Wall. Excellent pitch, with a cunning crux sequence in the scoop. Hathersage coffee & boot shopping, got hms on the Unparallel wagon. Harpur Hill. Ratline. Very sequency 7b+, side-pull and smear style, and surprised to be in the sun after reading the guide description of HH being a cold and shady crag! 3 goes, had to run away so hms could drive home at a reasonable hour.

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AlanLittle 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

> grazing mercilessly on chips

Now you're talking. Belgian chips are definitely the best in the world - the thick cut potatoeyness of English ones combined with the light crispiness of French.

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Tom Green 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Hi All,

Thanks to SSB and AJM for recent statting.

My intended two weeks in the Alps was sabotaged by having to return to sort some UK-based crises out -pretty annoying for both myself and my partners for each of the weeks. Still, managed to get some good stuff done...

Week 34:

Work, work and more work.

Drove to Cham.

Week 35:

Bastien-Contamine on the Grand Dru. Awesome trip up the Dru with Alex (former Fit Club alpine machine!).

Pretty pleased with this for a few reasons... Firstly, it is a fantastic route -really, really nice climbing up mostly clean and solid rock. Secondly, the Dru obviously carries a satisfying amount of history, so it felt pretty good standing on the top. Thirdly, it seemed that a summer of chipping away at my weaknesses and climbing antistyle routes has paid off: physically feeling stronger/fitter on long steep pitches, being much more competent at jamming and mentally having the confidence to attack pitches that previously I would have been intimidated by. Fourthly, was relieved that, despite not doing nearly enough running up hills this year, my off-the-couch fitness was actually sufficient for longish alpine days.

Unfortunately had to can the second half of this week and head home.

Week 36:

Bit of life admin then headed to Pembroke with my partner for the aborted second Alps week.

Had four days of pretty glorious conditions and again felt like recent indoor training and outdoor antistyle route choices have definitely had a big positive impact... not shut down nearly as much as previous Pembroke trips! Was also good to second some harder routes, although Silver Shadow at Stackpole was a horrendous, exhausting dog-fest (top tip: do NOT fall off the traverse at the midway overhang -it is a frickin nightmare getting back on to the rock/route! Was pretty close to having to prussick up my own ropes until I managed to swing in to catch some slopey grease-crimps for a footless campus and mantel!).

Highlights were Blowin in the Wind (nice committing moves); Rear Wind (super easy, super fun); Army Dreamers (compulsory tick); Tactician (grudge match after taking a screamer off it a couple of summers ago -felt easy this time) and finally breaking the mystique of Huntsman's Leap (it's not so scary after all!).

The only negative is my bad back/neck is persisting in to its fifth week and I've added some sort of weird pulled muscle in my chest/left arm (initial chest pains plus shooting pains down left arm did make me wonder whether I was having a heart attack, but I'm still here so hopefully it's just an intercostal muscle or something!!)

Week 37 Plan:

Start to switch focus toward winter... new training cycle and goals to be detailed next week.

Post edited at 10:26
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Steve Jones 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

> Steve Jones - it’s easy to duck the turbo though, right? I went through a phase of doing a fair bit of cycling a few years ago, but I could only ever really do it outside, I just don’t have the motivation for anything much indoors, so definitely started each year massively unfit and anything big had to happen in September once I had the miles in my legs...

Far too easy! I only really cycle when injured or the weather is so foul I can't face going outside to run, so never get that 'bike fit' and don't do any races or anything (although an offroad duathlon would be fun!)

M - 1hr at Kong before work, managed a short but crimpy 6b.

T - 1hr turbo interval session. Then stupidly thought a warm down jog round the park would be fine. Foot pain crept in after about 2k. Set my recovery back a week or so at least I think.

W - 2 hrs at Kong leading routes. Did a lot of the same ones I've been doing on auto-belay and several more around 5c/6a territory.

T - Rest

F- Rest

S - Weights - Including barbell squats for the first time in ages. Feeling the DOMS today!

S - Woden's Face crag - Left Hand Roue (VD), Family Outing (s), Wimpey Way (s), Woden's Face Direct (s)

Post edited at 10:24
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SFrancis 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for doing the doing the stats.

Week 09th - 15th

M: 10 min ARC, a campus / PE workout, IYTs and prone Is, pull up max test- 98kg

T: Route session and few boulders. 4 x Routes 6c-7a

W: 25min run, 3 x 10 push ups, stretching

T: A few boulders but whilst I was off ill, my elbow began hurting and I think I made it saw locking off on slopey holds on my tuesday session. So sacked it off early.

F: Rest

S: A few routes outdoors, up to 7b.

S: A chilled cycle ride, a few push ups / elbow rehabilitation

Next weeks goals:

Keep rehabbing elbow, although feels a little better today

Experimenting with a keto diet / low carb, I will be interested to see if I see any differences.

FBing and  add in some aerobic power exercises

1 day out sport climbing at the weekend

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Bones [:B 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

I hope you're having a great time in Bruges doing the tough job of sampling all the beer.

> Bones [:B - nice one, big summit there (plus a few other high ones too!). I did the breithorn traverse years ago, probably my last proper alps trip, because it had a nice short approach. Remember a glorious day spent lazing in the bivvy hut at the far end having got there quite early to ensure we had a space...

Ah nice, it's a beautiful place to hang out isn't it. The Breithorn is a short approach but still almost killed me. We risked it and went up later on the cable car but were lucky to find space in the hut and some nice running water over the rocks to cook dinner. Denner risotto - my new favourite meal - I even brought some home and am currently cooking it as we write this!!

Mon: rest/travel home

Tues: rest

Weds: morning gym and 30 min run. Went a little faster than normal - must be the altitude training!

Thurs: 30 min run

Fri: morning gym

Sat: bouldering - one traverse in the monkey room and some front lever training.

Sun: rest

This week I am doing 4 runs to train for a run on 20th Oct and starting more regular front lever work to meet my 666 goal. Will also aim for 4 gym sessions a week and 3 boulder sessions. 666 is getting closer and closer and I have not improved much recently so need to work harder. Exercises I am going to do are:

- feet to bar

- hanging leg raises

- skin the cat and skinning kittens - can never remember which is which

- extended tuck lowers or single leg lowers, depending on which I can do

- horizontal holds on rings/bar

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planetmarshall 09 Sep 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Well, Belgium does have a strong claim to the world's second best beer after Bavaria. Bit deficient in other aspects compared to the Frankenjura though.

I lived in Brussels for about six months. The thing which drove me absolutely bats was the total absence of lead climbing from the indoor walls. The Netherlands was much the same. I just didn't get it.

There's a great little bouldering wall in Leuven though, near the station in Herent. With Belgian Beers on tap (recommended *post* session...)

Post edited at 14:49
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the sheep 10 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

Sadly they don’t want to go back and do it so not going to press them on it.

Anyway a quick update from the phone whilst the eldest swims ( on her 16th birthday too, cannot fault her commitment!)

Monday, 1km swim

Tuesday  1km swim

Wednesday  1km swim and 22km ride

Thursday 2km swim and stretch class

Friday  1km swim and 3km trot round the local park. 22km ride home

Saturday 16km trail run

Sunday rest

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Powderpuff 11 Sep 2019
In reply to AJM:

> Powderpuff - I’m not so sure I would! I’m dreading the scales when I get back from this weekend. Assuming you mean outdoors, do you have anything in mind for the V6?

Hi AJM

I'm imagining you're having an experience similar to the film "In Brugue" but a bit less violent! Enjoy the beer, I've heard they have a few to choose from!

No I ment v6 indoors.....no one climbs outdoors anymore, havnt you heard?

Monday:climbed two v4 problems.

Thursday:climbed two v4 and one v5 problems. Worked a v6.

Sunday:fingerboard session 6 max hangs.Sit ups 3 sets of 20 , leg raises 3 sets of 10, eccentric curls 3 sets of 10, press ups 3 sets of 20

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Ardo 19:33 Sat
In reply to AJM:

> Ardo - that’s a lot of walking! Was that with tent and stuff too?

Hey AJM, thanks for stat-ing. Just shy of 130 miles for the week, which was good: the fecking allergic reaction/injury, less so. Carried tarp/bivvy bag for 3 days, then dumped kit at my brother's and used a b&b for the last night. Steady week finishing the walk and a couple of days trad. 6 routes, 17 stars on Sunday without once moving kit, an excellent day.

Mo: Wolds Way walking, 13.8 miles. Day 5 on Wolds Way.
Tu: General walking, 9.0 miles.
We: General walking, 7.0 miles. 3 trad routes back @ Lawrencefield.
Th: General walking, 8.8 miles. DIY day.
Fr: General walking, 8.4 miles. DIY day.
Sa: General walking, 8.4 miles.
Su: General walking, 6.4 miles. 6 trad routes back @ Almscliff.
Weight: 10st 9lb/bf 16.8%

Next week's plan
Same as last week:-
Rehab ankle/shin.
More climbing and perhaps do some training.
Do more work on van/flat.

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