/ UKC Fit Club Week 668

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mattrm 05 Jan 2020

Thanks to AJM for posting up the year round up - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_2019_roundup-714121

Great to see all the 700 goals going up.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

This week's psyche video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACB46E7rYqc

Suggestions for the psyche video always welcome.

AJM - Good that you're still getting the sessions in.  Keep up the good work.

Somerset swede basher - Another nice tick there.  Lots of other nice sessions.

ad111 - Glad to hear you're psyched for the upcoming season.  

biscuit - Hope the trip goes well!

Paul16 - Good post christmas session

Tom Green - A great week all things considering.

Steve Jones - Sorry to hear that.  Hope you're better now.

AlanLittle - Three nice sessions there over Christmas, well done!

Ally Smith - Glad to hear you like the stats.  Lots of good sessions there.

Powderpuff - Any session is better than nothing over Christmas

annak - Hope you came through the insanity!  Good to see you got some running and fingerboarding in.  Hope the

mattrm - Try harder you lazy sod.

Post edited at 19:13
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. Had lots of family stuff on this week so out and about less but lots of fun had. Worked out some good beta for a couple of things but no ticks. 

Mon. Rest

Tues. Cratcliffe session on t crack. Probably my longest running nemesis of all time! Actually made some progress today. Did 3 new moves and I just need to put it all together now. 

Wed. Rest. 

Thurs. Was going to go out climbing but still felt tired from Cratcliffe so ran instead. 11km trail. 

Fri. Rest. 

Sat. Burbage. Did all the moves on submergence. Hoping to get back there in the week.

Sun 5km run 

Steve Jones 05 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Another lazy/eazy/ill week for me.

On Friday i shelled out for a sports massage and followed that with 90 mins or so at the wall. Made some progress on the slabby 6c+ that I’ve been working on.

Post-new year body comp stats:

weight: 73.6kg

muscle mass:58.6kg

fat:11.9kg (16.2%)

When running my performance peaked when under 70kg (57.5kg muscle, 9.5kg (13.6%)fat) so would like to get there again, but also need a bit more upper body muscle for climbing. 

Training resumes tomorrow!!

biscuit 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt.

A good first week in Costa Blanca. The finger has held up well and it’s only been a problem a couple of times when I’ve had to change beta as I can’t do a full crimp or fit the padding in a pocket.

M – Travel day

T – Cocentaina – 5 routes up to 6c on-sight

W – Cocentaina – Can’t remember. I think similar to the day before. 6c+ onsight???

T – Rest day

F – Cerezas – 4 routes up to 7a+ beta flash

S – Busot – 3 routes up to 7a onsight

S – Rest day

Got my eye on a 7b tomorrow at Busot. Then back to Cerezas for BDSM (7a***) and possibly Zombie Weekend (soft 7b***).

Still got two more climbing days after that but no firm plans yet. Cocentaina is worth another visit to look at the long multi star 7’s.

After the first couple of days, spent remembering how to climb outdoors, things are going better than I thought. I feel top end endurance is lacking and I may not be able to string a sustained section together at that level. We’ll see.

It’s stoking my desire to get consistent and start trying hard again.

My goals for the trip were 7b in a day and 4 x 7a on-sights.

4 climbing days left to get that done. The 7b i'm going to look at today is most probably not going to get done as it's one I've picked because it looks amazing. Very powerful and with two dynos in the first 3 bots. Not my natural style. But it looks too good to not have a swing around on.

Ally Smith 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the stats again Matt - still aiming for consistency, though this week will probably be a struggle as I've caught another lurgy

Week 1

M – Nothing

T – 26km flat biking at 20kph pace.

W – Happy New Cave Year. A bit glassy warming up and realised that I wasn’t on best form either. Gradually the condition of both of us improved and had a good go on Daisy from Concrete pinging off the borehole on Trigger Cut https://www.instagram.com/p/B6yXlEGj4pl/ 

Proceeded to try Brimage moves again and tweaked beta further.

Did some training to round things out: 2 reps of Right Wall Traverse with 10 kneebar sit-ups in the middle; Clever Beaver; Beaver Cleaver Direct.

T – After work training in the pain cave. Yawned my way through the whole session. Tendon density hangs; 3x35s@BW+15kg for fingers. 4x40s@BW+5kg for elbows. Aero-cap 7/3/6/1 x10 @BW-22.5kg (alternating grips from half crimp to F3/B3 half crimp – quite pumpy). BFR bicep curls & OHP @ 15kg barbell; hoping for some gainz in my gunz! (And more specifically, an improvement in undercutting strength)

F – Delightful bicep DOMS. 23km bike ride at 26kph pace.

S – Grit bouldering at Cratcliffe & Robin Hoods Stride. Aimed for and achieved a bunch of 7A-B, including T-crack https://www.instagram.com/p/B66hWnVjU0j/

S – 3hrs Gardening. Started to feel a bit grotty/viral; racing heartrate etc.

Tom Green 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi all. Thanks again for statting Matt.

A reasonable week, although time constraints meant I didn't manage planned Z1 volume.

Week 1:

110/190mins Z1; 0/30mins Z3 (not too worried by this -it's always going to be lowest priority); 1/2 Core; 1/2 Strength; 2/1 Climbing (one of the climbing sessions was pretty much a weighted pull-up sesh; and both were a good core workout, so not too worried about missing a session of core and strength!)

M: 66min Z1. 9.5km, 430m vert, 6:57/km. Moderately techy trail run.

T: Shoulder Prehab

W: Core and Max Strength -big sesh on the weighted pull-ups... part of the Jaz-plan!

T: Crack sesh at Ramshaw. Ten laps on The Crank as part of Project Jam. Nice for this to feel so easy now... need to do similar mileage sessions for fingers and fists. Worked Melvyn Bragg (f7B) -seem to have gone backwards on this -further away from getting un-inverted (definitely a word, right?!) at the lip -maybe tired from yesterday's core sesh?

F: Dry tooling. Last minute plan to hit White Goods -didn't really fit in with the previous two days, but never mind! Climbed predictably badly, but good to get out.

S: Shoulder and elbow prehab. Need to focus on elbows given the increase in pull-ups, etc.

S: 44min Z1. 6.7km, 296m vert, 6:33/km. Should have been double this volume, but ran out of time.

Week 2 Plan:

200min Z1

30min Z3

2 Core + Strength

2 Climbing

STG (End Feb 2020):

Scottish 7

Run the Cheshire Gritstone Trail https://www.cheshireeast.gov.uk/pdf/ranger-service/countryside-sites/cec_gritstone_trail_leaflet(fin)_accessible.pdf 2

Weighted pull-ups >+15kg 3RM

MTG (End April 2020):

Two big alpine routes off my hit list

Ski tour Drumochter munros

Jaz &/or Hidden Dragon

LTG (End 2020):

Run 25km vert. 

Run 1000km

50+ days climbing

Post edited at 10:27
ad111 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt, happy to report I'm still feeling psyched to get strong!

M: Rest

T&W: Cabin in the woods for NY

T: Core, max hangs, max pulls, slabs

F: Rest

S: Core, one arm training, projects

S: Rest

Not a bad week considering the it was NY week!

Goals (to be achieved by April):

+47.5kg on lattice edge (increase of 5kg)

+35kg 2 rep pullups (increase 5kg)

Be able to lockoff for 15 seconds on both arms

Train core minimum twice a week.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Nice work on t crack. Yes, pocket in but chip out I think. You are one lanky so and so! I can't reach the break level holds with my feet on the start bloc so do it all off the toe hooks. Ive got good short man beta for the top now though. Left heel into pocket, Tuck the toe under the nose for leverage then match the sloper and up to the next sloper with the left. 

annak 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt.

Last week largely characterised by losing my voice for a few days, but happily managed to start climbing again this week, albeit gently. Operation wounds feel great, finger on the mend.

M: rest

T: easy indoor bouldering - whites and greens. Fingerboard and some easy ab work

W: "bouldering" in the woods - wandering about with my pad and having a feel of the rock but not actually getting up anything

Th: indoor leading, up to 6a+

F: rest

Sa: outdoor bouldering - managed a 5+ and almost another 5+, foiled by the sunset

Su: indoor bouldering, managed about half the blues. Fingerboard and antagonist stuff.

ianstevens 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Slacking on logging the last few weeks - lots of travelling and not a lot of time, so slipped my mind. Currently in a bit of a limbo phase between plans so have been trying to get out as much as possible - however last week ended up being pretty lethargic sadly. No diet changes or similar, just a low energy week.

M: Peak, boulders. Got up a bunch of easier things warming up, and got Jerry's Finish (f6C) and Trust (f7A). Good day.

T: Drove the Wales, slapped the top of Bulling 747 (V6) a few times but didn't hold on. Annoying, but this is a sign of progress. Felt tired. Wandered up the Ramp on the Cromlech for the millionth time to finish the year with a top of some sort.

W: Nothing (hungover)

T: Yoga and some pull ups. Felt tired.

F: Yoga

S: Brimham - bunch of easier stuff and Perky Direct (f6C+). Had some goes at The Titfield Thunderbolt (f7B+) and The Anchor (f7A+) but without much success. 

S: Planned to go to the moors. Rocked up, realised my skin was still shit and went for a walk.

Now looking at this it was an okay week - 6C, 6C+ and 7A outside with some okay attempts at harder things. This week brings my lattice assessment which will be the foundation of my training plans for the 2020 season; pretty excited for it!

Si dH 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi Matt and eeveryone else, 

I'd like to rejoin fitclub again after a bit of a break! 

I went through a period of low motivation and energy in the second half of 2018 and first 8 months of 2019, due to some general life events and stress. Having moved jobs and houses from Derby to north Liverpool in September, I'm now feeling more positive in general and also have lots of new crags to visit, so climbing motivation is back. 

I've started bouldering regularly in the week again (at the Climbing Hangar) and have been gradually getting better again. At the moment I can do most of the V6s and the odd V7 in 1 or 2 sessions. I've built a fingerboard and TRX set-up in our garage (which also has plenty of space for a good woodie in future) and started using it sporadically.

The main aim is to get back to the bouldering level I was at outside previously. Roughly this is/was:

- Doing 7A reliably and most 7A+ in a session

- Usually doing 7B in a couple of sessions

- Some 7Cs being doable with long term effort

I also want to get some power endurance back so I'm going to set a specific 2020 goal to climb a 7B+ that takes me at least 45-50 seconds to climb. Probably something at Parisellas or Craig y Longridge (I really enjoyed projecting several boulder traverses in 2015/16). I think this will help my bouldering but also make a transition to climbing routes again easier in future. I'll need to do some p/e training to help this. 

I also want to lose some weight - I have put on 8-9 kg since 2016 and want to lose about 5 kg of that. This will take some effort as I seem to find controlling my diet much harder than I used to. I blame that on parenthood! 

So my mixed bag of 2020 goals are currently:

- Visit lots of new crags (South Lakes lime, West Yorkshire grit, Bowland, Lancs quarries, Cheshire sandstone, N Wales lime, Snowdonia)

- Keep up a reasonable rate of progress with Ft 7A/Bs outside (unless I find a harder project that I want to focus on) 

- Do a long-ish Ft 7B+

- Lose 5 kg (starting point ~78 kg) 

- Do some power endurance training - maybe aim to complete one of the crimpd ancap fingerboard sessions at the correct weight (80/70% of max) as this is currently way beyond me

- Go on a week's bouldering trip abroad (probably Font with the family in autumn) 

- Build a woodie? 

(The last bullet currently feels non-essential as I'm enjoying climbing at the wall after work, but since we bought a house with it in mind I think I should at least make some progress!) 

I'll add more structure later in the year if I'm feeling motivated enough and have specific enough goals.  

Finally - I'm in need of new climbing partners round here so if anyone based in the North West wants to meet up for a boulder at the weekend, let me know!


AJM 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> AJM - Good that you're still getting the sessions in.  Keep up the good work

Thanks Matt.

A week of ups and downs this week.

To start with the downsides, my body is creaking at the seams! I don't really know how, but I seem to have acquired a bit of a tweaky left wrist, which is not too bad save on undercuts or pinches so probably just needs care. I've also crocked something mysterious in my right hand, which doesn't especially seem to hurt whilst climbing bit definitely aches after a session and doesn't seem to be showing much sign of improvement. Trying to sort out a physio appointment this week to get it diagnosed. The back  of the DIP joint and the back of the middle phalanx are both painful to the touch and when extending the finger. Also uncomfortable in the joint hyperextension of an aggressive crimp. And lots of random other stuff. Some sort of extensor issue. Who damages their extensors!?

As for upsides, whilst my body wasn't creaking it served me well this week. A few bits of pushups etc, but main highlights:

- An improvement in pb by 1-2kg on the 8mm edges.

- ticked the 6C I'd fallen off before on the board. 

- made some progress on the first of my "initially unfeasible" projects, the blandly named "test6c". Very much not my style. Therefore a good project.

- did, from memory, another 6B+, and flashed a nominally 6C+ (more in keeping with the easier 6B+s?) and after a few goes did a 7A.

Grade fluffing aside, these latter ones were far more my style, probably soft (although in slight contradiction a lad was struggling slightly on the 7A who flashed test6c, which suggests at least an element of strengths Vs weaknesses) and persistence in the more basic style of test6c is probably where the main benefits will be seen...

Probably avoid fingery stuff this week til I get a diagnosis. Due to the wall Weds, if I haven't got anything then I shall probably do a volume/aero session.

Tom Green 06 Jan 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Welcome back!

AlanLittle 06 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt, and happy new year Fit Club!

Reini Scherer "build up" training phase Week Two / Ski School Weekend One.

STG: Learn to ski
MTG: Be fit for Kalymnos in May; ideally get a couple of decent things done at home beforehand.
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

T am: Beastmaker max hangs as some kind of pale substitute for a proper bouldering session.
T pm: Hike up to New Year's summit bivvy, Brunnsteinspitze (Karwendel). Didn't quite make it to the actual summit. Just as I was thinking "hmm, wind's getting up a bit, pity I didn't bring a shovel to dig a pit", what should I see before me but a perfect pre-dug luxury pit! In which I proceeded to watch the fireworks in the village four thousand feet below, then enjoy a warm & comfy night's sleep. Thank you anonymous better-prepared pit digger.
W: Hike the last bit to summit, and down, from New Year's summit bivvy. Lovely being up there alone in all the whiteness, but moving on snow without skis really is a pain in the ass. (I realise I am ten thousand years behind Suomi reindeer herders in arriving at this conclusion). I start to address this problem on Sunday.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Power endurance circuit projecting.
S: Wall, Weyarn. Aerobic base mileage on autobelays. 3x6a+ (warm up), 4x6b, 3x6b+ 
S: Ski School Day One, St Johann

AlanLittle 07 Jan 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Now contemplating the disintegration of my short term training plan. I had ski school yesterday (public holiday) and have it again both days the coming weekend. There's absolutely no way I can fit my three climbing sessions in. Making two will be a push. Same next week. 

But ski school is a long term investment - I look at it as adding ski touring as another string to my mountain-related activities bow for the not too distant time when I'm too old to continue to push myself at rock climbing. Retirement planning.

Ally Smith 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Hi Si. Good to bump into you at the cave previously. Welcome back to FC. I'd certainly be keen for:

"- Visit lots of new crags (South Lakes lime, West Yorkshire grit, Bowland, Lancs quarries, Cheshire sandstone, N Wales lime, Snowdonia)"

as I'd like to get some variety of rock type and volume into my bouldering. Drop me a line

AJM 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Welcome back! If I'm up north I'll drop you a line...

Si dH 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Ally Smith:

Great - I'm away this coming weekend but will drop you a message the one after. 

biscuit 07 Jan 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Welcome back!

Powderpuff 07 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi mattrm,

Thanks for doing FC again

Thursday: local wall, climbed up to v5.

Sunday: 6 max hangs on beastmaker.  2 sets of 20 sit ups.

Paul16 08 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Morning Matt, thanks for the stat's.

Last week was a rest week so only did a couple of short bouldering session at Substation. Nothing harder than v5, although I had a play on a couple of v6's but didn't give it the full beans.

Managed to stick to no alcohol, and only a few indulgent calories so I'm sticking to the plan pretty well so far. Tried to get out to Ramshaw on Sunday but the weather wasn't playing ball.

Been doing regular spinning at home - hoping that will keep the weight off.

STG (Early Feb 2020): Costa Blanca early Feb. Redpoint Kashba @ Sella (6c+). Redpoint some 6c+/7a's at Gandia or nearby crags, and see where I get to on those.

MTG (April 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+, head point San Melas E3 5c. On-sight of Wings of Unreason E4 5c/6a/6b

LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Indecent Exposure 7b+.

AJM 08 Jan 2020
In reply to AJM:

> Trying to sort out a physio appointment this week to get it diagnosed. The back  of the DIP joint and the back of the middle phalanx are both painful to the touch and when extending the finger. Also uncomfortable in the joint hyperextension of an aggressive crimp. And lots of random other stuff. Some sort of extensor issue. Who damages their extensors!?

So, apparently it's a problem with that hyperextension of the DIP. I hyperextend too much - weakness in the muscles which flex the DIP versus those which flex the PIP, plus finger lengths which maybe increase the likelihood (compared to the physio I've got a longer middle and shorter little finger, which suggests more bending of the middle is necessary when trying to fold them onto the same hold).

Issue has been aggravated by recently increasing the volume of more aggressive crimp grips having moved from the lattice edge (which I hang with a quasi-open grip - I get everything on the same hold by having a basically open pinkie,  index and ring PIP joints at about 120, middle at circa 90) to the 15mm and the 8mm micros (where to solve the same problem all the angles have come in about 20-30 degrees - pinkie at about 120, index and ring just under 90, middle at 70or something with hyperextension starting on the DIP - not accurate but you get the idea)

Basically I've got to try to strengthen the flexors for the DIP, so open handed fingerboarding and other grips which force the right finger position whilst avoiding anything which hyperextends the DIP.

Goal focus will change - no more chasing 8mm half crimp records - but with a bit of a gap before I'm next at the wall and some discipline at home I ought to be able to focus on it. At least I now have a plan!

Bones [:B 09 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. I thought this week would be a good time to start back at fitclub. I am now 14 weeks pregnant and in a stage of uncertainty at the moment. Not sure exactly what I will or won't be able to do but I have some goals for now that I would like to stick to until the day I can't - if that day comes.

1. fingerboarding 2 x week

2. running 3 x week to keep some sort of fitness for 10-mile race in October.

3. keep working at the gym with the things that feel good

4. track my workouts so I have stats to back-up how I am doing rather than my own deluded ideas of what is happening

5. continue bouldering/top-roping where possible

Last week:

Mon: fairly ill-feeling last boulder of 2019 at Barber's gym.

Tues: rest

Weds: short run:  5.91km 39:05mins

Thurs: rest

Fri: gym - first day back after being closed over Christmas. Felt quite different and tiring!

Sat: Attempted bouldering in the Peak but a little drizzly and cold for me. Found a fun traverse that Guy breezed and I really struggled on. Damn slopers and no feet! 

Sun: Travel home and rest.

Last week was a slow one but this week I have been getting back into the swing of things.

Bones [:B 09 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Also, is there a week 700 goal post that I missed or is that still to come?

Paul16 10 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

I finally have an answer to the rotation issues I've had with my shoulders! It's scar tissue on the capsule from previous frozen shoulders (both of them!). Physio has given me some (really painful) stretches to break up the scar tissue but fundamentally there's no problems with the shoulder's themselves. I'm super happy to know there's nothing actually wrong and I should get full mobility back.

If the stretches don't work then injecting the capsule with saline solution or keyhole surgery are options. Hoping the stretches do the job to be honest...

mattrm 10 Jan 2020
In reply to Bones [:B:

Probably not really.  I'll possibly try and list them up once everyone has put some up so they're captured in a post.  Or did you mean a separate thread?

mattrm 12 Jan 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs (1 lbs gain)

M - Push ups
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - 3 mile walk
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest

Just kept it an easy chilled week.  I'll worry about the averages etc next week.


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