A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_669-7145...
Psyche video - youtube.com/watch?v=3EdaClq6xG4&
Si dH - Great goals there. Good number of sessions this week. Well done. Lovely to see you back!
the sheep - Yay on the 5k! Yay on the 8k. Family run sounds lovely.
Somerset swede basher - Keep on keeping on. I'm sure you'll crack submergence soon.
AJM - Hope you got some fingerboarding done. Don't forget what Dave Mac says, when it all gets hard it's important to get the maintenance sessions in.
annak - That's horrible. I hope you're ok. Definitely worth taking it easy and resting up. Lots of good sessions otherwise.
AlanLittle - Ski school sounds fun. Good number of sessions all in.
biscuit - 7b is still good. Nice to hear there's some easy gains to be hand. Sounds like it was a nice trip.
Ally Smith - Glad the lurgy disappeared. Gardening work outs are the best.
Tom Green - Congrats on the M7. Pity nothing much was in. Least you got a good few walks in.
Steve Jones - Nice one on the V5! Good sessions the rest of the time.
Rebecca Ting - I see you lurking there at the back Ting! Nicklist? I'm sure you have a fine moustache The trips all sound ace. 700 goals look tasty as well.
Paul16 - Good to hear about the injury diagnosis, hope that comes good for you. 6c onsights sound good. I'm looking forward to hearing about the trip. Sounds like it'll be fun.
ad111 - Hope the fingers are better soon.
Bones - Love the week 700 goal. Lots of good sessions. Love the flash and I thought the name 'little bones' was great!
Powderpuff - Well done on the v5s. Did you get on the bike this week?
planetmarshall - It's often hard to get into gear after christmas. I'm sure you'll get stuck in. I did some coaching with Katherine years ago she was great, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
ianstevens - Sorry to hear that. Great plans there tho. Good to hear about the hangboarding.
mattrm - Just try a bit harder ok.
Posting early as I'm currently living in a plague pit and I'm not sure when I'll get to post on Sunday.
Hope everyone has a great week. Don't forget psyche videos please!
Another disappointing week in terms of actual achievement but Wednesday was good fun.
Mon. Went to the depot. The recent comp problems were still up so had a bash at those. 26 flashes, 1 after a few goes, 2 I backed off the last move of as it was tweaking my finger and I didn't think it was worth the risk and 1 I couldn't really get off the floor on. Did a bit of campussing and a lap of the 7b+ on the circuit board.
Tues. Rest.
Wed. An hour at Windgather Quarry. I did all the Font3s and some of the gaps between them which were a bit harder. This doesn't really describe the experience though. It's as high as burbage North with plenty to hit on the way down, the top metre is choss and it was blowing a gale! 6km run up to Shining Tor afterwards with great moonlit views across the western Peak.
Thurs. Rest.
Fri. Burbage North for ANOTHER session on submergence. After last session I didn't think it was possible to get much closer without actually doing it but it turns out it is! Managed to get my left hand into the slot about 5 times but it was a bit damp and I slid out every time. Balls.
Sat. 5km run.
Sun. Headed out with a rare opportunity to tie in. The route my partner wanted to do was wet and he wasn't keen to repeat stuff he'd done before or hit the grit in the cold so we ended up at the foundry. It was a nice session and a good catch up but disappointed that we went inside when the weather was so nice.
On the plus side, the forecast for next week looks good so going to take a couple of rest days and catch up on work stuff then aim for a wednesday lamp session hopefully with seepage gone and some primo evening conditions!
Thanks Matt!
Mon: Fingerboard ancap session (the crimpd app workout at 70% of Max hang weight on a lattice edge.) I managed the first set OK but failed on the last rep of the second and third sets, on the 4th rep of the fourth and fifth sets, and almost immediately on the 6th set. Lots to work on!
Tue: Hanger boulder session after work. I managed to tick off the long V7 I was trying in the cave last week, and another short V7. Good session.
Wed: rest.
Thu: Hanger boulder session after work. Finished off a V6 I had tried previously and then spent all session on a yellow (V6-9? Probably V7.) Eventually did it - only the second yellow I have done so pleased with this.
Fri: rest
Sat: at home with a stinking cold
Sun: family stuff.
Two good sessions at the wall this week. I still feel like I'm gradually getting stronger at the moment. I had yesterday booked as a climbing day and the weather was great so I was pretty gutted to not be well enough to get out of the house, grrr.
Need to drop the weight a bit on the ancap fingerboard sessions.
Thanks Matt,
M: Max pulls, rows, rings, stretching & traverse
T: Tried the routes from Finnish boulder league - good fun
W: Rest
T: Max Pulls and strength training session - crimpd app
F: Rest
S: Boulder comp
S: Rest
Good week - fingers still a little dodgy. Probably try a little easy fingerboarding next week.
> AJM - Hope you got some fingerboarding done. Don't forget what Dave Mac says, when it all gets hard it's important to get the maintenance sessions in.
thanks Matt. Work was really busy this week, but apart from that it’s been pretty positive. Had a nice weekend this weekend, my sister visiting, ate about a billion calories. Once we get results signed off at work, end of Jan, I need to clean up my diet a bit. Fingers all stopped feeling painful which is really good, feeling a lot more positive than when I was just generally feeling creaky. And whilst quite short sessions I did manage to keep doing stuff and do some variety of stuff to boot.
Monday - rest
Tuesday - short fingerboard, lattice open hand at body weight, doing 3 finger drag with one hand and either front or middle two with the other, swapping sides.
Wednesday - weighted pull-ups @95kg, 3,3,3,2. Decent result this. Then feet elevated pushups in the evening 15/13/13
Thursday - short fingerboard in the morning, lattice 3&2 open hand pairs at body weight as per Tuesday
Friday - rest
Saturday - lattice 2-finger hangs at bw-5 - 5s on front 2, 3s on middle 2. Meal out for my wife’s birthday.
Sunday - went for a walk with the family round Lulworth cove in perfect sunny weather. More overeating.
the short sessions before work seemed to be fairly handy this week. I never want to get up early enough to do a huge amount, but it gets round the lack of energy I often face when I’ve got home and got the kids to bed and then what I really want to do is sit down...
It’s my sons birthday this week and my in-laws are down. Not sure on plans, but assume I’ll probably be doing a bunch of home based stuff. Outside chance I might get to the wall but I’m happy enough plugging away at home for a bit longer.
STG - 14st
MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 6lbs (STS)
M - Rest
T - 3 miles
W - S - Rest
S - DIY club - moved all the bits of kitchen down to the garage.
A fairly ill family this week. I managed to miss the worst of it, but I did have a bit of a cold. So spent lots of time looking after people and carting el sprog to the GPs. Everyone is on the mend nicely now, so hopefully this week will be better. I'm quite motivated to get under 14st. Quite a productive night, lots of batch cooking done and moved all the bits of old kitchen that were in the garden down to the garage.
> Ski school sounds fun.
Continues to be so. Few weeks break now before the black run graduation course.
Reini Scherer "build up" training phase Week Four / Ski School Weekend Three.
STG: Learn to ski: book week four black run graduation session. Confirm partners & exact dates for Kalymnos.
MTG: Be fit for Kalymnos in May; ideally get a couple of decent things done at home beforehand.
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658
M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Dreadful session: ridiculous overcrowding makes it basically impossible to do any sort of structured training session here on weekday evenings. Otoh it has more steep terrain than the other walls I go to, an no amount of approximately vertical mileage is going to do anything to address my huge head deficits on the steeps. Nevertheless made plans to try out an alternative wall next week.
W:
T: Moonboard. Starting to string up to two or three moves together, even held a couple of big foot-cut moves without my shoulders breaking. Good.
F:
S: Ski School Day Five, St Johann. More blue slopes, learning what these skiers use these odd pole thingies for.
S: Ski School Day Six, St Johann. Lovely fresh fluffy snow. Reds, slow & steady but in control (mostly). Feels like good progress, and great fun.
> the sheep - Yay on the 5k! Yay on the 8k. Family run sounds lovely.
Cheers Matt, It was great fun and the youngest now loves trail running which is fab.
Had a consistent week in the pool, got a km in each lunchtime Mon-Fri.
Popped out Tuesday evening for a gentle 5k run.
Thursday, was supposed to go to stretch after swimming. However a poor lad had a massive seizure in the changing rooms. I managed to help him safely to the floor as he was on a bench at the time and once the seizure had passed it was clear he wasnt breathing so started CPR. With the help of another gym member we got him back and breathing again. Thankfully by the time the ambulance crew got there he was sat up and conscious although very confused. He was able to walk out with the crew so that was good.
Unfortunately in all the chaos I managed to aggravate the surgery area so rested up from running and cycling for the rest of the week. Took the kids swimming on Sunday for a fun session
Cheers Matt. I’m glad the plague has cleared.
It was an amazing trip that really reminded me of all the reasons why I climb. 7b was more than I was expecting and the one I did i probably should have onsighted. It felt v easy second go.
However i’ve had post trip fatigue this last week. Return to work, reduction in diet quality and sleep and being tired from multiple try hard days meant.not a lot got done.
My body fat scales seem to have broken. Need to get on with that and my stretching/hip this week.
Wed - circuits at depot. Twice round 6a. Knackered. Twice round 6b. Nothing in the tank so gave up.
Thurs - BUK - up to V4. Can’t pull hard.
Sun -BUK up to V4. Feeling more physical but climbing with finger un taped for the first time so didn’t push it. Circuits - 6a+, 6b+, fell off the 6c+ and gave up.
STG - end of March 2020
Get on my scales and find an average weight and fat % to work from by next week - determine a goal from there.
Have a go at the Kendal and Manc Depot WBL's. I think they're both in the 3rd round now and I've not entered this year due to my finger. It'll be a good benchmark of where I am up to and how the finger is under a bit of pressure.
Sort out my hip problem.
Build a routine of stretching every day for upper body.
MTG - Up to 1st July when Chapel Head opens
Wishlist routes at Scout Scar
LTG -
7c at Chapel Head - probs looking at Super Duper Dupont. Routes with a BIG crux at the end are my anti style so it can only be good for me.
Xmas 2020 - 7b onsight and 7c in a day
Holy shit well done! Hope you're back on track with recovery soon
Blimey, well done. The guy was lucky you were there. Pity it stuffed up the surgery area, but it was for a good cause so to speak.
> ianstevens - Sorry to hear that. Great plans there tho. Good to hear about the hangboarding.
As promised, a lazy one from me. Did get a bit bored some evenings mind... but fortunately I had some work to do on my van to occupy the weekend. I won't bother with details - but basically yoga every day and cycled into work 4 days. This week is going to be an odd one - ready to get back to training but no lattice plan has come through as of yet - so it's on me! Probably 2 x hang sessions, some conditioning, a wall trip or two and try to get out on the weekend.
Cheers, fortunately over the course of last week the pain has dramatically reduced so I'm pretty sure the ribs aren't broken now!
M: run 45 min
Tu: indoor bouldering, blues now feeling steady, tried a bunch of yellows and got up one
W: dance class!
Th: indoor lead climbing, aero cap so loads of routes between 6a and 6b+, to a mild pump, then 20min ARC.
F: more dancing
Sa: indoor bouldering, an cap, 6A to 6Bs mostly, then repeaters on the fingeboard which were super hard
Su: outdoor bouldering, heaps of 6a and 6a+s, pretty chuffed.
I'm in the ancap/aerocap phase so lots of volume but nothing too hard - but it's super interesting that the medium difficulty routes feel fairly cruisey but the top end is entirely absent right now. I guess that will come back later / as I switch to anpow/aeropow.
> I'm in the ancap/aerocap phase so lots of volume but nothing too hard - but it's super interesting that the medium difficulty routes feel fairly cruisey but the top end is entirely absent right now. I guess that will come back later / as I switch to anpow/aeropow.
I‘m in much the same phase & hoping much the same thing
"Good to hear about the injury diagnosis, hope that comes good for you. 6c onsights sound good. I'm looking forward to hearing about the trip. Sounds like it'll be fun." - cheers Matt. Really looking forward to getting away and seeing where I am at. The injury diagnosis is great, I now have something to work with.
Bit of a disappointing week, got a couple of sessions in but not the full plan. Sunday was eventful, see the summary below. Hopefully I've done enough to carry me through to Spain.
M - Power endurance @ Chapel
T - Rest, stretching
W - Should have been an ARC session but skipped it due to some family issues I had to sort out
T - Enforced rest due to an appointment in the evening
F - Power endurance on Autobelay @ AW Stockport - got stuck into a 6c+ but was too much for a PE session so went back to the 6c.
S - Rest
S - Got on rock! Fell off rock! Climbing at Ramshaw, took a ground fall off The Cannon after the huge spike at the start snapped clean off. Escaped with a bruised heel and some sore ribs - luckily the big block missed me, my belayer and the crag dog. Sneezing is really painful
Brought my rest week forward a week to give my bruised body chance to recover. Hoping to do a few days training before Spain.
STG (Early Feb 2020): Costa Blanca early Feb. Redpoint Kashba @ Sella (6c+). Redpoint some 6c+/7a's at Gandia or nearby crags, and see where I get to on those.
MTG (April 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+, head point San Melas E3 5c. On-sight of Wings of Unreason E4 5c/6a/6b
LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Indecent Exposure 7b+.
Thanks Matt
Had a fairly relaxed week last week as I was away in Bath but still got some sessions in.
Week 700 goal: 50 fingerboard sessions - 0 completed
Mon: gym - barbells: back squat, bench press, deadlift, bench pull, clean and press. Also did pull-ups and dips. Finding pull-ups harder now. Think I am around 5kg heavier and also it pulls on my core a little so need to be careful not to do any damage.
Tues: rest - went to Bath to work with a friend
Weds: 40-minute treadmill run, roughly 5.44km. Felt really good apart from the heat in the gym!
Thurs: rest and home from Bath
Fri: boulder session in the evening at Barber's, finally did a slopey v6 that I have been trying on and off for a few months.
Sat: 30-min run, 4.32km. Felt pretty low on energy even on such a short run.
Sun: Good boulder session at Stronghold. Not sure I did any problems of note but worked some hard moves on a few whites.
From previous week:
1. fingerboarding 2 x week - Keep forgetting about it but there are now post-it notes everywhere and friends texting me reminders!
2. running 3 x week - 2 this week
3. keep working at the gym with the things that feel good - away this week
4. track my workouts so I have stats to back-up how I am doing rather than my own deluded ideas of what is happening - 50% did this
5. continue bouldering/top-roping where possible - done, happy with a v6 this week
Isn't it curious! I'm not supposed to be trying that hard, but if I do want to crank it up a notch it's just not there. I've never followed this kind of training plan before so it's a learning curve.
> Steve Jones - Nice one on the V5! Good sessions the rest of the time.
Thanks, nice too feel like I am making a little progress.
M - Tried to do some weights but bailed after 15 mins - no strengeth due to persistant man-flu
T - 30 mins on the turbo trainer
W - 2.5 hrs at the wall, mostly routes and some bouldering
T - Nowt
F - 2 hr doing routes. Didn't warm up enough I think, plus the cold, lead to a slightly fustraiting session
S - Run over Latrigg - 40~ mins, 7.2k, 300m vert. Not as slow as I thought but it wasn't pleasant. Everything hurt.
S - DOMS from a trot over Latrigg!! I must be unfit!!
Psyche vid nomination - either caff on the rathlin effect (seperate UKC thread) or Tom Randall on master blaster, Zion (that search term should find on YouTube).
Sorry, 1 thumb typing on phone with sleeping child hence no links...
Oh, or the Friday night vid of a Rätikon, just because I really want to go and all that mountain grey limestone is just so cool....
Tah mattrm, doing lots of v5's has made me feel much stronger, still didn't manage to get on the bike, must do better next week
Tue:
Went to the wall climbed two V4, two v5, worked on a 3rd v5. 3 sets of 20 press ups and sit ups. 3 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises. Theraband routine for shoulders
Thursday:
Wall again, climbed two v4 and three v5 problems.
Sunday:
Wall with the kids, still managed one v4 and two v5 problems.....I'll take that.