UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_676-7164...

I hope you're all suitably loaded up with loo roll for the weeks ahead?  Even more ski club this week.  Nearly half of you.

Psyche video - ?  Anyone?

Powderpuff - Two good sessions there.  Stonger again this week?

Si dH - Yeah, if your kid sleeps well you feel so much better.  Three nice sessions, good week.  Glad to hear you'r mostly well now.

AlanLittle - Wooo, ski club!  Good to hear about the moonboard progress, I knew you could do it.  I don't know much about snow quality, so I'll take your word for that.

AJM - Lots of quality home work there.  Good job.

annak - No skiing?  Boooo.  But yay sauna!  Excellent sessions.  Did you have a nice rest week?

Somerset swede basher - Yay for parklife!  Hope Mrs Swede is well now.  Glad you enjoyed playing in the snow.  Should have taken some skis!

the sheep - Congrats on the 1km swim pb.  That's a nice 5k time as well.

Steve Jones - Keep up the momentum.  Hope the drinking binge was suitably messy?  I'm impressed you fitted in a run the day after.

Bones - 3,3 and 2 is quite a load.  If 2 is what you can do, stick with it.  Good week.

Ally Smith - I hope that C'mon Eileen doesn't do the trip in.  Lots of good sessions and good job on the tree surgery.

jackob - Yay ski club.  Get your pow pow on!  St Anton looks nice.

ianstevens - You're in, I went to a wedding last night, so didn't do the stats the evening before as normal.  As always I'm impressed by the yoga.  Good job on the pyramidding as well.  Also, ski club!!!

In reply to mattrm:

How about this for International Women's Day?

youtube.com/watch?v=gojOJwYwFfM&

One of my go-to psych videos, not because of the climbing per se, but great music, gently funny and some great multisport action...

In reply to mattrm:

Not much to report from me this week. Start of the wk was spent looking after kids as Mrs. Swede was still ill. By mid week the kids were ill so I was off work with them and by friday I had it which wiped out Fri and Sat! Managed a couple of very short Tor sessions (Tues and Sun) for some beta refining on Ben's Roof Original and I think I've got a sequence for the whole thing now. Will start trying from the start next week. 

In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. Decided to take a rest for most of this week as my elbows felt pretty bad on Tuesday. The timing worked fairly well as work was super busy. 

M: rest

T: Hangar after work. Spent most of the session on a V7 on the 20 degree wall,  close but no cigar. 

W-S: rest,  work,  diy

S: Had a couple of hours at Pex Hill this pm. Just working on a couple of super fingery V6s, no ticks. Not feeling strong at the moment and I think Pex really shows up my lack of flexibility,  but it's good training! Nice to be outside in some cold sunshine. 

Si

In reply to mattrm:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs (1lbs loss)

M - 3.5 miles walk

T - 4 m walk

W - 3 m walk

T - 3 m walk

F - 2.5 m run !!!

S - Gardening

S - Push ups

In some ways it was a tough week.  Work was pretty daft again.  We had the normal amount of disrupted sleep, our lad either waking up 0400-0500 or waking up several times during the night.  However I managed to get out for a walk every day.  Then I actually went for a run on Friday.  Stats wise I'm making up for a sub standard Feb, by pushing March out to 100% so far.  Not sure I can keep this streak up, but I'll try.  I don't expect work or health issues to let up any time soon, but I'm surprisingly chuffed that I'm actually doing a steady wodge of stuff.  The gardening is digging up a new flower bed in the front garden.  So removing a lot of gravel, mud and grass.  Lots of lifting and carrying, plus a load of digging and tip runs.  It counts, honest!

Still slightly confused by the dislike on last week's post.  Oh well.

Feb - 44%

Mar - 100%

YTD - 51%

In reply to mattrm:

I suspect it was either someone from fit club hitting the wrong button - easy to do on a smartphone - or a non fit club person... who's dislike we neither need not value! 

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks as ever Matt.

Monday - 3x10 side raises with 6kg dumbbells. 3x6-7 bicep curls with 13kg dumbbells. 3 sets pseudo planche progression pushups. 3 sets of shoulder presses with the 13kg dumbbells, about 7-8 reps each.

Tuesday - bit achey from yesterday and aware that I’ve turned up at the wall already aching a few times recently, I decided that resting was the tactical option

Wednesday - poor sleep. But day off - happy birthday to me Went to the wall. Excellent session, got a bunch of fairly tricky stuff done, felt worked, all really good. Then in the afternoon I got bullied by miniAJM into 2 sets of archer rows because he wanted to swing on the rings again!

Thurs/Fri - rest

Saturday - wall. Decent bunch of new problems in the warmup. Ticked off one of the things I started at the end of session Wednesday, fairly steady whilst fresh. Circuit board finally reset! So I got on that - red and pink (easy), green (pleased to flash this, expect it might make p-e lapping material once wired), tried Yellow (hard, several goes, best effort so nearly overlapping halves: 1-27, 18-38 with the final hold number 40). Keen to put some more time into these over the next few weeks. Shoulder a bit grumbly at the end from a hard unwind from a cross through.

Sunday - rest. Shoulder a bit stiff still but should be fine. A slightly frustrating day, was intending to do some baking and despite having picked the simplest recipes going to allow for the inevitability of child distraction I still managed to screw them both up. A lot of faff and not much end result. But there we go.

2 wall sessions, both fairly good, and a reasonable volume weights session. Not a bad week. Before Saturday I was thinking that whilst my fingers have been a bit grumbly this winter the extra volume of shoulder based things seems to have left them in fairly good shape - and then I tweaked something on Saturday! I do need to do some sensible fingerboarding again really this week. I think it might be a week without wall, in that we have non-climbing (well, not currently climbing) friends visiting this coming weekend which has been my usual opportunity of late. Goal then is for some varied home training. Looking forwards to holiday now, as long as we aren’t all in lockdown by then - 3 weeks today. Suspect weight will be disappointing but climbing performance seems to be ok.

happy to report I did manage at least one thing - there’s now space to foot on campus - so the new super-SMART goals for the week are to either do 2 aerobic sessions amidst the other stuff or to re-drill the crack bar properly.

In reply to mattrm:

STG: Moonboard benchmark (any)
MTG: Be fit for Kalymnos in May; ideally get a couple of decent things done at home beforehand.
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: 
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not quite as ridiculously overrun as in January, but still nowhere near enough people panicking about covid-19 on the holds.
W: Bike on hour. Mobility, shoulders, wrist extensors 40 minutes.
T: Moonboard. Starting to feel some progress: repeated my future 5C benchmark classic from last week, did most of the moves on a couple of benchmarks. But ... I have been warming up for my mb sessions on the fingerboard. Today I warmed up with half an hour of easy bouldering instead, and had to cut the moonboard session short because my pulleys were starting to feel decidedly tweaky. Back to the fingerboard next week.
F: 
S: Ski Club, Scheffau. Was supposed to be heading out with some friends from the ski course plus my son - another chance for him to enjoy being Leader Of The Pack. But sadly he was down with a sinus infection  (not corona!). 
S: More ski club, getting some laps in on blacks in preparation for (now cancelled!) ski course advanced weekend next week. Intended to do a fingerboard session in the evening, but was too tired after bad traffic on the drive home.

Good week activity-wise, but I very much regret having lost the chance of a weekend of mountain activity with my son. He's nearly 17 and I have strong feeling that the remaining time that he'll enjoy doing stuff together with dad is finite. Empty nest crisis looming.

Ski school advanced weekend next week cancelled due to corona / proximity to Italian Alps etc. Starting to wonder if flying to Kalymnos in May will still be an option.

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the stats again Matt.

Working away from home for most of the week and managed to sample a variety of walls in London town. Still, too much eating for the amount of exercise completed; compounded by visiting in-laws for the weekend.

Week 10

M – Westway routes. 10 tie-ins. 6a, 6c, 7b, 7b, 7a, 7c (fail), hideous slopey 7a+ (fail), another hideous slopey 7a+ (last move fail), back to the first 7a+ (repeat failure) 6c+. Evidence suggests i'm lacking some session stamina.

T – Nothing. Gluttony.

W – Stronghold circuits. 6a, 6c (OS), 7b (fail/work), 7b (RP), 7a+ (OS), 7a (rpt), 7a+, 7a, 7a+, 7a+, 7a, 7a, 6c. No structure but reasonable volume.

T – Nothing. 

F – Grit bouldering. 40+ goes on Submergence; still no cigar. Got a viable sequence now though, but it's very frustrating (and no, I can't just lank it, that method requires skinny fingers). Managed a pair of 7A/+’s as compensation ticks.

S – DIY – laying a laminate floor

S – More of the same

In reply to Ally Smith:

Did you try the roll over method with the right heel on? (I'm blessed with skinny fingers so can't complain there!) I've lost psyche for this one recently. I'd be keen to know if you come up with any magic beta though! 

In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt, next goal is to get my 5k time down below 25 minutes. Been a split week between cycling and running, still nothing on the bike yet.  

Monday, rest day after the previous long run

Tuesday, 1km swim

Wednesday, 2 km swim

Thursday, nowt as a late engineer scuppered my usual lunchtime plans

Friday, 2km lunchtime swim and 7km evening run. Need to go easy on the hand paddle work as its causing some elbow pain

Saturday, very busy day but managed to squeeze in a 5k trail run

Sunday, 7km trail run

In reply to mattrm:

 

Momentum maintained! I had to pace the drinking as it involved a 40min bus journey back to Keswick and I don't travel well at the best of times. I think I was still drunk when I did the run, and the climbing in the evening!

M - v easy 2 hrs, mostly routes, at the wall.

T - Interval session with KAC - just shy of 13k including warm up/down. Was hard but happy with splits gievn the lack of training so far etc etc. Been roped into the Nnorthern Road Relay squad so have to do some training before March 22nd!

W - 2 hrs. routes at kong

T - Mile reps round the park with 400m (about 3.5 min) recovery (the club were having a social run so did my own thing). Again, happy with my splits (6:26/6:28/6:38/6:35) - not where I want to be but no so bad as I'll make a fool of myself at the relays.

F - 2 hours. some longer routes and leading up to 6b

S - 10 k fell/trail run (300m climb) 50 mins

S - 10k recovery around town (170m) 50 mins

In reply to mattrm:

Posting in the hope it'll help get back into some kind of routine.

Mon - Fri: exhausted and back playing up. Basically nothing.

Sat: Boulders, Cardiff. Toproped up to a high point of 6c, fell off a couple of others.

Sun: TCA, Bristol. Fun session but wiped out pretty quickly.

This week aiming for three wall sessions, even if they're short. Tick some new problems - 3x green (V2-4), 3x purple (V3-5) and a white (V4-6).

In reply to mattrm:

STG: 7B Boulder

7b Onsight

70kg

LTG: 8a Sport climb

Great week climbing this week.

Mon: Max hangs/ Weighted Pullups.

Tues: Rest

Weds: Trowbarrow neds problem wet so had a play on the Red Traverse (7b+). Christ this is pumpy. Neds problem had dried by the time i left so had a couple of quick goes but was knackered by this point.

Thurs: Headed up to bowfell with hopes that Bowfell Buttress (V 6) would be in condition. Unfortunately it was not. We did find some short grade IV single pitch mixed routes on  North Buttress/Cambridge Crag  which were in reasonable nick so climbed a couple of these.

Fri:  Scafell Crag Climbed Moss Ghyll (Winter) (IV 5). Feel very lucky to have found this in excellent nick considering the poor winter season in the lakes. One of the best winter routes i have done, as well as being one of the hardest and scariest. This is absolutely never in a million years a grade IV. All good fun still!

Sat: Kendal Wall with naomi. First time for her climbing since seperating her AC joint so had a fairly aimless session messing around on boulders with her. Managed to sneak in some stretching and antags work in there too.

Happy to have got my weight back down to 71.5kg. Not quite what i was before skiing but still hoping to be <70kg for siurana in 3 weeks.

Going to to spend this week concentrating on bouldering. Then move into a bit of PE/Endurance training the following week ready for my trip.

In reply to mattrm:

Yes thanks, my deload week was basically me dropping the training aspects and just fun climbing for a bit

M: Run 45 min

T: Indoor lead, just cruisey grades

W: Rest

Th: More cruisy leading

F: Rest

Sa: Indoor bouldering

Su: Finally led a 6c+ not got up one since November, before the operation, so feel like I'm somewhere on track.

This week ahead: get back on with scheduled training but drop the strength training to a minimum of antagonist stuff and focus on try hard climbing sessions.

USA in 3 weeks if not cancelled by coronapocalypse.

In reply to Jackob:

That sounds like a dream trip to the Lakes. I think you win fit club this week! 

In reply to mattrm:

Cheers for the stats as always Matt. How about this for a psyche vid?  youtube.com/watch?v=IfeePvVGjQs& 

Got to make the most of free weekdays and actual good conditions! Glencoe is only 4-4.5 hours for me so can hop up relatively on a whim in the van. Hope the wedding was fun, and I'll remember Sunday morning posts are entirely unhelpful.

Last week:

Mon:

1/2 a ski day, wind stopped play. 

Tue: 

1) Ski

2) Bouldering in the Ice Factor. Strange place to boulder really, it's not very big and the problems are a bit odd. Did everything up to 6C in an hour and left.

Wed:

Ski - finally getting back to some degree of competence

Thur:

1) Yoga

2) Max hangs (10 sec, lattice edge, 2 hands) 5 x 90.6kg, 1 x 91.1kg (a new PB).

3) Stabiliser conditioning, scapular conditioning, Core (crimpd sessions). Added some extra weight to quite a few of these.

4) Intermediate campus (123, 135 and 144 (meant to be 145 but not quite there!)

5) 3 reps x 6 problems 6B-C. 

6) Sports Massage

Fri:

I'm sure you can guess after that Thursday... rest! (Actually went for a plod round the Lake District to look at field sites for undergrad trips).

Sat: 

Bowden Doors. Did Scooped Wall (f6B)Manta RH (f6B), and had a play on some harder stuff. First day out in a while so not really on form, and it was pretty windy so a bit of a mental battle there.

Sun:

Arrived at  Shaftoe Crags just as it started spitting. Again, windy, so sacked it in and went indoors. Bit of a social session, trying problems up to 7B (6C tops) and finished off a short-term indoor proj - a 6C in a style I'm pretty poor at. 

Next week:

Going to be one of two halves - a chilled start and then a full on weekend of the CWIF and (hopefully) some grit. Trying to stick to not having more than two climbing-related days in a row at present, so will see how this pans out this w/e.

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks as always for doing the stats. This week I actually managed to fit in three runs, two of them roughly 5 miles, but then only did one fingerboard session!! One day I will manage it all. This week is going to be more of a forced rest week as I am down at my parents and pretty busy. 

Week 700 goal: 50 fingerboard sessions - 10/50 completed

Mon: Run, 29:55 min, 4.36km/2.7 miles, (6:52min/km)

Tues: rest

Weds: Run, 58:13 min, 8.74km/5.4 miles, (6:40min/km) and climb. I was struggling on the overhangs and feeling very tired and heavy but I think it is because I had just got back from doing a run.

Thurs: Fingerboard session

Fri: rest

Sat: Climb in the morning. Much stronger today. Able to easily climb the overhung routes I was struggling with on Wednesday and felt pretty comfy on a few of the blue circuit (V3-5?)

Sun: Run, 47:17 min, 7.11km/4.4 miles, (6:39min/km)

Weekly goals:

1. fingerboarding: 2 x week - 1 completed

2. running: 3 x week - 3 this week (finally!).

3. 2 bouldering/climbing sessions: 2 x week - 2 done

In reply to mattrm:

Quick lurk plus:

Started running again - 4 miles hilly muddy and some local V4 lappage.