UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 685

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 mattrm 03 May 2020

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_684-7186...

Psyche video - youtube.com/watch?v=hFyivVv-Kh4& - Steve House is amazing!

Somerset swede basher - Hope the tum is well now?  Hope you enjoyed the mtbing.  More attic sessions next week maybe?

AJM - Is the campus board ready?  Lots of nice sessions there.  Good week.  

Si dH - Hope the shoulder is still ok?  The wall looks great, such a nice setup.  I'm rather struggling with weight at the moment as well, you're not alone.

mattrm - Ohhh, two runs.

Ally Smith - How's the new woody going?  Built yet?  I do like the detail, very impressive!

AlanLittle - DIY club for the win!  Don't neglect the recovery.  Three solid sessions and a nice sounding ride, great job.  

the sheep - Definitely worth a bit of cross training.  Could you get a fingerboard or some weights as well?

Rebecca Ting - Glad to hear the ankle is ok.  The wall looks great.  Can't wait to see the finished product.

Bones - You've got to tell us the made up names?  Good job on the Saturday rest, it's important!  Lots of nice running.  Weird pregancy aches are normal I'm reliably informed by my wife.  But obviously play it safe if you're worried.

Tom Green - Another home board!  Hope it's arrived.  Is bodging a squat rack a great idea?  Maybe get a metal one?

Powderpuff -   Got wood yet?  Two good sessions there!

Steve Jones - Lots of lovely running as usual. 

With regards to the drilling stuff, I'd recommend either a brad point bit or an auger.  The augers are a bit more expensive, but you'll get better hole clearance and a neater hole.  The ideal tool really is either a router, or really ideally a CNC router.  But they're expensive options for a one off job.  I am a tool weenie so I do have a router.  I wouldn't use a spade bit personally.  You can get drill guides, but as it's a one off, if you're careful you'll be ok I reckon.  Just drill slowly and carefully, taking your time on each one. 

Personally if you're going to reset a lot I can't see why you'd want to screw holes directly into the plywood, eventually you'll chew the sheet up and you'll have to get a new sheet.  t-nuts seem to be the sensible choice, albeit with a bit of setup time.

I see we're missing a few more people this week.  I hope everyone is ok.

Post edited at 19:27
1
 AJM 03 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> AJM - Is the campus board ready?  Lots of nice sessions there.  Good week.

It is! See below.

Monday - basically spent all day on the phone. No time for other things and in the evening I was tired - some small measuring of things for the campus board

Tuesday - completed act 2 scene 1 - trimmed the ply to make it more neat and framed it. Checked it fitted and looked at marking out the angles for mounting it. 

Wednesday - I think I tried some assisted one arm pull-up eccentrics. Have to stay face on otherwise it seems very bicep focused, and I think getting a box or something to step on seemed best rather than trying to jump up or to pull up 2 armed and then swap. It has to be said I’m not 100% convinced that it wouldn’t be better just to work on the hanging shoulder shrugs as far as shoulder engagement at the bottom goes - but I suppose there’s the rest of the arm range to think about.

Thursday - tired, busy. Nothing.

Friday - started on act 2 scene 2, which is the adding of the actual rungs, blocks and other holds.

Saturday - finished act 2 scene 2, plus the measurement needed for act 3 scene 1, the grand finale, which is actually getting the damned thing mounted.

Sunday - A short walk with microAJM to get the one thing I’d forgotten in Thursdays shop - but the meat of the day was act 3 scene 1: the grand finale. Mounted it on the uprights and gazed in awe at my creation! https://www.instagram.com/p/B_ur7EeDXmF/?igshid=1svdx4pn1vumh

Safe to say I can’t see me outgrowing it, even the small rungs from Hardwood (the top ones) are pretty hard, they’re not enormously incut so they feel nearer to parallel with the board (c15 degrees overhanging) than parallel with the ground. And the ones in between those are extra small! It all feels desperate at the minute but I’ll start by getting some chalk onto it and see how it feels. Pleased that the new structure also has a lot more clearance between the campus panel and the fingerboard, should make that more versatile too, I can do pull-ups off it now which wasn’t possible before....

Jumping metaphors for a minute to books; as with many classic pieces of literature there is yet an epilogue to plough through - I’ve got 2 holds I want to make still - another edge to go near the pockets between 2 & 3 and a decent incut (already christened “the bivvy ledge”) to go between 1 & 2 in order to allow for better aerobic possibilities - the bottom half will still be reachable from the footholds so allows for aero action still. But no real urgency - I want to actually do some training this coming week and try to have a go at using it.

I also blogged this week about last summers Avon adventures - https://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com/2020/04/limestone-back-home-wed-c... - which was nice to get on line (I wrote it for a club newsletter, but thought I’d share it more widely)

The eagle eyed will notice I didn’t actually really do any training this week. I’m pleased to have got the campus board done though - I prioritised that with some of my free time windows so glad to have actually got it finished, would have been a bit disappointing if I hadn’t. Should be a bit easier with work this coming week - I’m only working 3.5 days and after Monday those should be slightly less manic - so keen to get stuck into some training.

 Si dH 03 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt, yes my shoulder has been ok this week but I need to stick to warming it up and exercising the rotator cuff muscles. Unfortunately I've gone and rewoken an old finger niggle from last autumn that I thought was fully healed, so now I'm having to be careful with that too!

M: rest

T: pretty good evening session. Managed to do the pinch problem from Sunday, which I think is probably the hardest thing I've set yet. (At least for me and as the board currently feels. I strongly suspect the pinches will feel better once I've been training on it a while to build pinch strength and once they have some chalk engrained in them.)

W: rest

T: evening session but it was rubbish. Was feeling tired and possibly didn't warm up as well as I needed. Left ring finger DIP started hurting a bit during later stages of my warmup on the lattice edge. Tried to do a bit of easier stuff on the the board but other than using the jugs, I have to pull too hard on everything. Gave up fairly quickly and did some TRX instead.

F: rest

S: Saturday morning session. Felt generally more lively than Thursday and spent a long time warming up while also playing with Sol, which seemed to work as my finger was fine. Had a fairly good albeit spread-out session. 

S: Doing an evening session now. Not doing brilliant, all the footholds feel slippery...which probably means I'm tired. Have also felt my left ring DIP again slightly so being careful with it (although no actual pain as such.) 

Writing it down, it doesn't look like a good week, but it has felt ok. Pleased finger was ok yesterday but should probably take a short bit of proper rest for a few days since I've now been on the board 4 sessions per week for 3 weeks running.

Didn't do any lattice edge repeaters this week due to obvious potential finger consequences - in fact it was that exercise that originally caused the injury last year.

Si

Post edited at 21:38
 AlanLittle 03 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Life During Wartime, Week Seven.

STG: Survive the pandemic; still be on speaking terms with my family at the end of it. Vary my quarantine training to include more general strength & mobility.
MTG: Re-plan Kalymnos trip to the Autumn - but of what year? Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, assuming I get to go climbing at some point in 2020. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Managed to convince myself to take a second fingerboard rest day for better recovery & more gainz. 
    Instead took advantage of Bavarian lockdown easing. It's now ok to meet one person outside one's own household, so rode my bike into town for a coffee with one of my regular climbing & skiing partners. He lives alone and has been suffering.

T: Beastmaker: learning to crimp & back 3, session #5
W: 
T: 90 minutes box step-ups

F: Public holiday. Failed to perceive any difference from any other day.
   Beastmaker: learning to crimp & back 3, session #6. 
    This was lockdown fingerboard session #21 in total, and for the first time I started to feel a little bit of tweak/ache in an A2 pulley. Oops, careful now.

S: Should have travelled to Kaly today.
    Was able to re-book both my flight and my time off work to October, but am still far from convinced that's going to happen either.
    Went for 1½ hours bike ride in the woods instead. Could be worse I suppose.
    
S: Grande Grotta. Flashed Ivi & onsighted Trela; good start to the trip. But then woke up. Bummer.
   DIY Club week 2: started work on a new gear cupboard. This going to be an all-wood screwless construction held together by glued dowels, and as such doesn't need any holes bigger than 10mm. Nevertheless was interested in Matt's comments on drill bits. Spade bits are fine for quickly gouging big holes in structural softwood, and I've always been put off augur bits by the cost, but I can see how they'd be superior for anything that needs to look nice.
 

Climbing is allowed again in Austria, and they locked down a week before Bavaria. Hope? Not getting too excited yet.

Post edited at 21:26
 Cyan 03 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Last week and this week pretty much identical!

Reasonable amount of walking during the week - it's about 40 mins to work. 5K run and a yoga session yesterday. Lazy today, ran this morning but skipping yoga and promising myself I'll do it after work tomorrow.

In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt, another solid week of stats from you. Much thanks from all of us for keeping things going. Tum muscles much improved but still not quite there so a 2nd week with no core. In other exciting fingerboard related news though... I raided the basement for offcuts of ply, cracked out the jigsaw and a sanding block and made a whole load of different sizes blocks to put into my wood grips board so I've got a whole array of new sized edges to play with!

Mon. 12 sets of repeaters in 2 groups of 6. Pull ups, 5x5 on the min. Press ups 3x10.

Tues. 10km on the roadbike. 

Wed. Attic session. Concentrating on up problems not endurance. Did some typewriter pull ups on the rings too, christ, these were hard. 

Thurs. 20km roadbike. 

Fri. Did a max hang test session on the new 20mm edge. Managed +34kgs (I weigh 66kgs). Really pleased with this. Weighted pull ups 5x5 +10kg. Press ups 3x10.

Sat. 8km run

Sun. Same as Monday, repeaters, pull ups, press ups. 10km kiddy bike ride. 

Post edited at 21:32
 Si dH 03 May 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Climbing is allowed again in Austria, and they locked down a week before Bavaria. Hope? Not getting too excited yet.

You went for a coffee though - definitely a chink of light there somewhere. (Being able to go for a coffee is something I've missed quite a lot, as I do it far too often - although I certainly save some money making it myself!)  Hope your friend was ok.

 Ally Smith 04 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks once again for the weekly stats Some lazy days this week, but some good quality sessions too. Need to keep up the motivation for both DIY and training (while also doing work, gardening, etc)

Week 18 

M – DIY: Roof joist reinforcements. Training; 16km flat and gentle ride; left knee playing up and clicking lots.

T – DIY: Finished joist reinforcements. Training; strength session:

Crimpd 1-arm max-hangs @ BW-15kg F4SHC on Lattice edge. Hard with LH but just about completed all 6 sets.

2-arm 35 degree sloper; it was cooler so 24kg felt fine.

2-arm F3SHC @ BW+5kg on Lattice edge. 3 sets only. Felt a bit tweaky.

“Dead-pinch”: Crimpd “Max” @17kg. Same as last week, almost all lifts ticked; 9s on L for 1 ex 6.

Bench press: Was supposed to be a day for high resistance, but just wasn’t feeling it during the warm-up. Barely managed 4reps @ 65kg (was aiming for multiple sets of 5 reps at that weight) so decided on volume instead. 3x10 @ 55kg.

Should have done core & pull-ups but was feeling knackered, so called it a day.

W – DIY: First sections of framing in place.

Training: Rest

T – DIY: Bought an Impact Driver - revelation! More framing; still waiting on t-nuts which are stalling everything else.

Training: 38km flat ride then repeaters; lots of repeaters! 

8x grips with varying resistance; 7/3/6/3 twice on each grip. All felt bloody hard compared to the levels I was managing as training for the Spanish trip that never happened at the start of lockdown. (Pinch felt pi$$ though; making very quick gains here now I'm training them consistently)

F – Lazy. Half-hearted core: 200 crunchies, 50 bridge reps, 3min plank. 6kg rotator cuff; 3x11 reps.

S – Local walk. 6miles. Flat. Lots of bloody stiles.

S – Great strength session; Crimpd 2-arm max-hangs:

BW+52kg on Lattice edge. Hard but felt like recruitment increased and hangs got easier not harder throughout session :-D.

35 degree sloper; BW+24.5kg. Again felt like they got easier.

“Dead-pinch”: Crimpd “Max” @17.5kg. Almost all lifts ticked; 9s on L for 2 ex 6.

Bench press: Volume again; 3x 12rep @ 55kg

6x5 1-arm shrugs with 5kg assist. Right shoulder achey but much stronger than left.

 AlanLittle 04 May 2020
In reply to Ally Smith:

> DIY: Bought an Impact Driver - revelation!

I bought the cheapest drill press I could find - currently running at approx 4 Euros per hole drilled and already worth every penny! 

Also my son is delighted that we now possess a piece of equipment with a frickin laser.

 the sheep 04 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt, been bit of a meh week. Rain zapped all enthusiasm to get outdoors during the week. With the wife and I still both working full time the kids are pretty much home schooling themselves at times which is challenging for them and us.

The weekend was better, escaped for a 15km trail run on Saturday discovering new trails which I love. Sunday went for a 5k scamper with the youngest.

Up to 2 minutes on the plank challenge 

 Tom Green 04 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi Fit Club -hope you are all well, safe and sane. Thanks as per usual for the continued stats Matt.

Week 18:

M: Rest.

T: Pull-ups: on the min, 5x5 BW. Max Hangs: +1.5kg. TRX: Crimpd Compressions.

W: Road Run: Z1.

T: Dead lifts: 68kg, 4x4 (reduced weight slightly to improve form). Max Hangs: +1.5kg. Core: usual circuit x2.

F: Road Run: Z1.

S: Max Hangs: +1.5kg. 

S: Pull-ups: on the min, 5x5, BW. Deadlifts: 73kg, 4x4. Core. 

Week 19:

Start building home board (ply should be here Weds). Bodge some sort of rack so I can do heavy squats.

2 Z1 sessions

2 Core sessions

2 General strength sessions

2 Prehab sessions

STG (End May):

Max Hangs 75kg total (currently 73.5)

Weighted Pull-Ups 90kg total 3RM (Ticked original goal of 85kg total)

Squat 70kg 3RM (waiting on Rack -going to be built on to frame of home board)

Deadlift 85kg 3RM (currently 78kg)

3 sets of core circuit. (currently 2).

MTG/LTG:

All hinge on how long restrictions last... put it this way, the home board will include homemade wooden holds for dry-tooling!

OP mattrm 04 May 2020
In reply to Ally Smith:

 

> T – DIY: Bought an Impact Driver - revelation! More framing; still waiting on t-nuts which are stalling everything else.

They're amazing aren't they?

The other tool you can't do with out if you don't have one is a multi cutter.  They're dead handy.

 Si dH 05 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> The other tool you can't do with out if you don't have one is a multi cutter.  They're dead handy.

Do you think one of those would be good for making holds Matt? Can you cut curves with them? They look very useful and there is a cordless one available in the same system as my drill and circular saw so it's v tempting.

OP mattrm 05 May 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Sorta.  They're more useful for cutting pipes and trimming close to walls and stuff.  But you can cut pretty much anything with them, so while it might not be 100% the best thing for it, it'd probably work well enough.  Personally, I'd just buy a couple of rasps and do it by hand, but that's me.  Helps that I have a massive workbench designed for planing by hand with a quick release vice on it.

Can you send me a pic of the kind of hold you want to make?

 Si dH 05 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Ok thanks Matt.

I don't have an exact shape in mind. What I really want is some really positive but fingers undercuts and some pockets. Otherwise, just a few positive crimps of various sizes to have a bigger variety of hold types on the board. I'm not really expecting to be able to make the pockets myself as these will presumably be harder as they need to be well rounded.

 AJM 05 May 2020
In reply to Si dH:

If I can make pockets so can you!!!

 Powderpuff 05 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> Powderpuff -   Got wood yet?  Two good sessions there!

No wood yet but your double entendre just made me laugh! Long boring story so won't get into it.

Week to week this just looks exactly the same but here goes anyway...

Thursday: 3 sets of 20 press ups and sit ups. 2 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls. 6 max hangs on slopers. Theraband for shoulders.

Sunday: 3 sets of 20 press ups and sit ups. 3 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls. 6 max hangs on 20mm crimp. Theraband for shoulders.

Good vibes go out to everyone

 Powderpuff 05 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

I've just had a dig around in my tool box and found a 12mm auger drill bit....get in!...I'm ready for when this wood final shows up

 Bones [:B 06 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks so much for keeping us all going Matt, great work

> Bones - You've got to tell us the made up names?  Good job on the Saturday rest, it's important!  Lots of nice running.  Weird pregancy aches are normal I'm reliably informed by my wife.  But obviously play it safe if you're worried.

The names aren't that interesting, unfortunately, just long and vaguely descriptive! Example: high back leg with band under front leg rows. Not particularly catchy ;p haha

I think the pregnancy aches are ok, just trying to avoid anything that might take longer to heal afterward but thing I am taking it pretty easy. I know this isn't a pregnancy group but if anyone has any advice on any aspects of it, some tops tips, then please let me know. So far we have been pretty chill about it i.e. done very little!

You'll be pleased with my rest last week if you liked the previous Saturdays! I didn't stick to my plan at all but actually, on writing it down, I realised it's not as bad as I thought. Just proves to me how good it is to keep track.

Mon: strength workout - Shauna's booty workout 1

Tues: Catalyst climbing training full-body strength session.

- run, 58:41 min, 7.43km/4.62 miles, (7:54min/km)

- Finger curls with 12kg and roughly 10/11 reps per set. 3 sets.

Weds: rest

Thurs: Catalyst climbing training antagonist strength session.

- run, 38:25 min, 5.11km/3.17 miles, (7:31min/km)

Fri: rest

Sat: mainly rest, Guy got his new skateboard so we went out on that for a bit and I didn't really move but walked a good 4 miles or so.

Sun: Similar to Saturday except I managed to actually go along on the skateboard and also managed to fall off. Possibly not the most sensible sport for me right now but it's fun!

Week 700 goal: 50 finger strength sessions - 19/50 completed.

OP mattrm 09 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG - 14st / 30 minute 5k

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - ???

Weight - 15st

M - Push ups, squats, crunches etc
T - Rest
W - 3k run
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Digging up garden again
S - 30 push ups

Weighed myself which was pretty scary.  That's the best part of half a stone over the past two months or so.  Too much of everything to be honest.  I'm going to have to cut that down a bit.  Happy to have got a slightly longer run in.  Did a Joe Wicks thing on Monday, which was fun.  Did a load more of gardening and digging up the garden.  It's looking really nice, but we've put a lot of effort in to it.  Also I've done a fair bit of wallpapering the dining room.

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks again for keeping this ticking Matt! Similar week I think - two longer runs but less mileage as only two. Yoga every day (10-90mins) and core, fingerboard and bar and rings. Need to vary the sessions as these are feeling a bit easy now. 
 

Board progress slightly halted by hold supply and lack of motivation to clear out the spare room. But getting on it! Ankle stable for now though some difficulty with breathing in more humid conditions uphill. For info average run is 4.5miles with 300m climb. 

Post edited at 08:24
 Steve Jones 10 May 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Better late than never

> Steve Jones - Lots of lovely running as usual. 

Thank - more of the same this week...

M - AM: Run round lake 15.5k, 290m, 1hr20, PM: Bike to Rosthwaite (10k, 96m, 32 mins, walk over Grange Fell etc 8km, 490m, 2 hrs, bike home

T - Walk up Ullock pike etc 14.5k, 900m, 3hr 45

W - AM: Weights - shoulder has been feeling a little sore so went for lower weights, more reps - aimed for bench press 8x8 @ 45kg, but failed on 7th set. Also pull ups. PM: Bike to Seatoller (12k, 110m, 40 mins) Walk up Bessyboot 4km, 457m, 1hr 40, bike home.

T - Bike to Rannerdale (via newlands) - 15.5k, 341m, 1hr 22, walk up Rannerdale 2k, 250m, 45mins, bike home (via Whinklatter) 19km, 365m, 1hr 30

F - Bike to Thornthwaite (7km, 50m, 50 mis), walk Lorton and Whythop fells 21km, 2127m, 6hr), bike home

S - Weights - Bench 8x8@45kg, 8x5 oull ups (45mins)

S - Run to Braithwaite - 6k, 28 mins ( 5 years anniversary of doing the Thames Path 100 miler - how things have changed!)


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