A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html 2
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
Psyche video - https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=659
AJM - Lots of nice DWSing. The walk and beach sounds nice as well. Some good training in as well.
Somerset swede basher - Isn't that what the lockdown is all about? Cake! Congrats on the wedding anniversary. Nice ticks this week as well.
AlanLittle - Sounds like a good end to a damp week. Hope the weather has been better this week?
Si dH - Nice job on the f7A+ and f7B, all the fingerboarding has paid off it seems.
the sheep - Great runs. Good to hear about the work stuff. I work at a uni as well, so I know what it's like at themoment.
Ally Smith - Plenty of good training there. Loving the WR. Niggles ok? Good bit of DIY club as well.
Tom Green - Gratz! on the STG tick. Nice runs too. Looks like a good week to me.
Bones - Good week considering. If you're planning on doing lots of running, get a proper running buggy with a good brake. I never did lots of running, so my 'jogging' buggy was ok. As others have said, you can get pretty much every baby thing you ever need at a fraction of the price second hand.
Thanks Matt. Got out twice this week, once with miniAJM which was a success and therefore opens the door to more time outside once I have to go back to work. Admittedly the number of venues with child friendly walk ins and crag bases that are also likely to have good summer conditions are limited, and it’s basically only viable for bouldering, but everything is better than nothing! Good session on Monday and tried hard on Saturday. For me, Phat Slapper felt harder than Strip Teasel but worse conditions and it not being my style could explain that, don’t know. Also they always feel easier once you’ve done them! Hopefully out doing some easy bouldering some point this week, DWS on Wednesday, maybe take miniAJM out again at the end of the week.
Monday - climbing! Back to St Aldhelms. A lot cooler than last time and with a little bit of breeze. Managed to do Strip Teasel sitter, which is a nice problem, climbs the right Arete of a wide corner crack - a bit of a shame the other side of the corner is there as it rules out some potential options on sequence, but it still climbs nicely. It’s given 7A, there’s a few comments about it being soft so maybe a little less, but it’s nice and it didn’t take too long so encouraging either way. Got back on The Crimp which I’d wasted a lot of time and energy on last session - with better skin and better conditions (and knowing which sequence worked) it went first go no problem. Then tried Mikes Wall which is given 7B but has more definitive comments about that not being the case, presumably 7A/+ in reality. Made some progress on it, you have to stand up tall on a side pull and reach a little slot in quite good control - I could stand up tall in control but was coming up about 2 inches short, so presumably standing a little taller or getting my left foot slightly higher should crack it.
Tuesday - rest
Wednesday - fingerboard. 20mm edge assisted one arm. My scales are crap, so there’s some reasonable variation in what I weigh depending on exactly where I put them, but somewhere between the same sort of result as last time and maybe half a kilo improvement to just shy of 69kg. A little easier if I try to pull up to a slightly more locked arm at the start of the hang. I also tried assisted one arm hangs on the lattice jug and got to just shy of 71kg on that. I think that doing them on the jug is actually quite useful to try to work on the shoulder, so will try to continue doing these. Given the pretty small gap between the 20mm edge and the jug I do wonder if I might be better progressing the 8mm/10mm edges to work on fingers and the jug to work on the shoulders rather than doing something that’s near the limit of two different bits of the chain at once. Then later on archer rows and dips, both of which felt hard.
Thursday - my working day; rest
Friday - went out to the new forest to see my parents, who drove down from London, for lunch. First time we’ve seen them since lockdown. Bit of carrying miniAJM round on my shoulders. When we got back, a short fingerboard session, 10mm edges again, but it was pretty poor, just not feeling on it, so sacked it rather than thrash away fruitlessly.
Saturday - New Cuttings with MiniAJM, who actually did some climbing as well. I’ve not really taken him out trying to go climbing for ages, I can’t even remember, but he seemed to enjoy climbing himself, he enjoyed playing about, and he seems keen to go again. Winner Anyway, I tried Phat Slapper, video in here https://www.instagram.com/p/CBIjNPZjU69/?igshid=16jsv3canqtpp although it’s impossible to tell that it’s at all tricky when someone as debilitatingly strong as that does it. Ok crimps and sidepulls and stuff (you have to pull reasonably hard but it’s a fairly repeatable sequence) leads to a slap for the big ledge off worse feet. I’m terrible at slapping. I got to the slap repeatedly, eventually got a sequence that worked, I don’t know if it’s improveable or whether it’s just me feeling on-off on it because it’s a weak area for me. Best go I got a pad of my fingers onto the ledge but didn’t hold it. Then full sun, thinning skin and tired shoulders proved a non-winning combo. Next time! It’s a good problem, glad to have given it a go.
Sunday - aches and sore skin. Vert lime crimping in hot weather does that I guess! Rest.
- do some climbing [tick, good session this week]
- get back on top of life [plodding away]
- progress on 8mm edges, 10mm edges, lattice jug (86.5kg, 92.5kg, 71kg respectively) [no real progress this week]
- decent offsets session @85kg 
- 70kg one arm assist on the 20mm edge [68.8kg]
- 90kg on 8mm; try to hang 6mm [86.5kg]
- 5x5 @95kg [5, 5, 5, 4, 4 @91.5]
- solidify 1-3-5, 1-2-5, 1-4-5 campus despite bunched positions [got on ok with some 1.5-x-5 moves but not enough mileage to say solidified]
- ladder the 15mm extra small rungs
Thanks Matt. I haven't really done any fingerboarding recently, perhaps I should clarify that when I say 'board' in my posts I mean the 45 degree wall I built. Also, the ukc grades aren't right at Woodwell. The '7A+' I did last week is a 7A and the 7B doesn't have a well-defined start, I think it is probably 7A+ really. It was a good day though and I'm feeling fairly strong at the moment
T: evening board session. This was a really good one, I got quite a lot done and managed to finish one of my two longer term projects. I switched a hold on it to reduce the strain it previously put on my left ring finger DIP and this did make it slightly easier, but it's still going in the book at 7A+...
T: morning board session. Not as good as Tuesday but got a decent amount done. I came reasonably close to doing the other (pinch-based) longer term project I have going, but didn't quite manage to hold the tension at the end.
S: morning board session. I only had about an hour available incl warmup, but I got a reasonable number of burns in so it was a decent training session I think. Had to do a ridiculous amount of child-carrying in the afternoon as we met my wife's family for lunch and a walk and forgot the buggy. He weighs over 14kg now so it's quite hard work...
S: another morning trip up to Woodwell O'ert Road. I was worried about seepage and showers but saw nothing of either. I did both Angel Deelite (f7A) and Superstar DJ Tinpot Todd (f7A) pretty quickly after working out a sequence for the cruxes. Dropped in to look at Craig y Longridge on the way home as I haven't been before. Didn't have enough time to try anything there, but it looks cool. There was some seepage but mostly just at the bottom. Saw no other climbers all day!
Good week. Nice to keep getting some boulders ticked. I think next weekend I'll go somewhere different although if the promised 30 degree heat arrives I'm not sure where!
I'm also planning to take a rest week from the board this week. I think instead I'll start some pocket work on the fingerboard as pocket strength is a definite weakness for me. I've ordered some new holds including some pockets to add to the board for future as well.
Cheers Matt, with the move to alert level 3 I've managed to rein my cake consumption in this week!
Tues. Went to Dirtlow Rake and managed to do Drowning My Sorrows In Dirt Stand Start (f7A+) but couldn't quite manage the sit. I think it might go if I put some time into it.
Wed. Took a walk to Carrhead Rocks and soloed a handful of easy trad routes then took a walk around the bouldering to see if its worth a trip back when it's colder.
Thurs. 1hr of badminton against our 6'3" gladiator of a PE teacher. My first cardio exercise since the virus but felt OK. Managed to take one game to a tie break (which I lost) and beaten far more comprehensively in the other games!
Fri. Max hangs, on the min pull ups, press ups. Not done max hangs for at least 5 weeks and failed on the last 3 hangs after about 7 seconds, need to try and get a session in each week.
Sat. Tried for some easy soloing at Bell Hagg but it was wet so headed over to burbage north instead. About 15 or so sub E routes.
Sun. Raven Tor in the late evening shade. Had a quick look at Converter and sorted the bump and match but but didn't try the crux throw. Got stuck back into Undercut to Crimp and managed the top move for the first time. Then did start to crimp and undercuts to top so hopefully this will go next time.
Thanks Matt. Managing niggles pretty well ATM. Got me another FA project on the go...
...glad I've a few spare days leave to take advantage of Yorkshire conditions.
M – 22km flat road bike spin.
T – Day off work: Kilnsey. Dog; shambles RP; successful RP; on Exit to Eden (7c+). L ringfinger tweak /forearm strain got pumped super quickly when dogging, but settled down enough to RP this exposed extension to Dominatrix. Dog & bolt of potential newbie. Has one hard section that might succumb to my wing span instead of crimping powers…
W – Owing to recent insta posts and listening to a podcast with Yves Gravelle I've become interested in “grip-strength” and hence ordered apparatus for IronMind "Crush 2 Dust" challenge. Started that journey today by practicing the setting and closure of grippers using a very old/b*stard hard CoC#1; intrigued how the CoC#2 will feel. (RH only as LH forearm strain still rehab’ing). 6sets 10reps bench; 45kg, concentrating on speed. 4x 30s hold on wide position on board (shoulder/elbow rehab). COMPEX “recovery” on L forearm & old groin strain.
T – Filled my gut with collagen protein and did a tendon density session; 3x 30s @BW+10kg for LH rehab. Never felt desperate and never more than the mildest of discomfort. Worked out max effort on Lattice Pinch/crimp block; (RH only again) 57kg 5s DL. Crimpd max-pinch: 18.75kg RH. 16.5kg LH. All successful lifts Crimpd max-hangs; 35 degree sloper @BW+16.5kg. Steady.
F – Rained most of the day but managed to motivate myself for a slightly damp 22km ride at a decent pace.
S – Kilnsey again. Dogged & cleaned new section; dogged & cleaned new section; dogged to the top (ace moves on top roof). Needs glue on 2 feet and 1 hand hold, but should be a great route at ~8b. Epic dog/aid mission to retrieve draws from Lockdown Fatigue.
S – 8mile walk in Upper Dove valley. Glad we took Goretex! Board session when we got home. Forearm definitely on the mend. Got up to 7B including some solid snatches with LH. COMPEX forearm “capillarisation”.
> the sheep - Great runs. Good to hear about the work stuff. I work at a uni as well, so I know what it's like at the moment.
Cheers Matt, what do you do at your Uni?
Another busy week work wise but managed to squeeze in few 10k trail routes through the week. Had a lovely run on Sunday that went went round a local quarry, with an absolute highlight of spotting a Peregrine Falcon
Hi all, hope you've had a good week? Thanks, Matt, for keeping us all on track.
This week was scheduled to be a deload week, which was a happy coincidence in that it also turned out to be a pretty hectic week. This meant it was more of a deload than intended, but I'm not too worried by that! Although decided mid-week not to do any running and kind of regret that.
T: Mega-long work day.
W: Fingerboard and Prehab
T: Strength sesh (short and targeted).
F: Fingerboard. Board sesh (ancap -6 in 6; aerocap -min-on/min-off).
S: Board sesh. Fun not training! Creating new problems for the next training cycle.
S: Core. Board sesh (again, not really training, just inventing new problems to fit future workouts).
Start of the next half-block: focus shifting to mix of strength and endurance.
200 min Z1
2 Core sessions
2 Strength sessions
3 Climbing sessions (2 Aerocap; 2 Strength/Ancap; 1 Aeropow)
2 Prehab sessions
STG (End July):
Max Hangs 78kg total (TICK: 79.5kg)
Weighted Pull-Ups 90kg total 3RM (TICK: 92kg)
Squat 70kg 3RM
Deadlift 85kg 3RM
3 sets of core circuit.
Cheshire Cat, Stigarete.
Curfew, Gaza Strippers.
Clean shunt/TR of Marlene in the Corner (E5 6a) Imagination (E3 6a)
Run the Stretton Skyline
MTG (End Sept):
Eliminator, Yates' Layaway.
Grid Iron, Traction Control.
Black Wall Direct, Red Square, Digitron.
Cheshire Gritstone Trail
Question to the proper trainers!
Over the last two months I've constantly felt just on the edge of having niggly elbows... never desperate and always responded to (p)rehab and spacing out sessions, but I'm always a bit wary of going full golfer.
It seems related to doing more pull-ups than usual (rather than being associated with more climbing on the board, although I suspect that plays a small part). I've mostly been doing large (for me) numbers of low resistance (e.g. bodyweight, 5x5 on-the-min) with the odd weighted session (+12kg to + 18kg) of 3x3.
Do I need to:
a) keep doing what I'm doing?
b) increase weight, decrease volume?
c) decrease weight, increase volume?
d) mix it up a bit: different types of pull-up, lock-off, row, etc?
e) sack them off and just go climbing?!
Interested to know what others have done with these barely-there types of niggle.
Some sort of experimentation with variety, either via b, c or d, feels sensible - a niggle is a sign something isn't quite right, so doing nothing doesn't sound wise but giving up completely might not be warranted of you can isolate which bit is causing the grief...
I guess it depends what youre training for. I find I get more strength gains from 5x5 with added weight than on the minute pull ups. Stop as soon as the upwards motion isn't smooth. Maybe more rest between pull up sessions? I get on and off golfers but the one ended dumbell lowers sorts it out very quickly.
Definately not option c though.
I've had problems with pull-ups causing elbow problems in the past. Unfortunately my solution was just to stop doing them and to do a period of elbow rehab exercises, so I don't have a good answer for you. I agree with the above that it's probably sensible to experiment with changing things up a bit, but be very wary of increasing volume. You might also need to take a bit of a rest before finding what works, if they are currently a bit inflamed.
"It seems related to doing more pull-ups than usual" - Don't increase volume - that's probably what's pi$$ing it off already!
So, go out and enjoy the nice weather this week, i.e. e) then...
f) Listen to various podcasts about tendinopathy. Tyler Nelson and Jill Cook are good starting points: e.g. https://theprehabguys.com/podcast/talking-tendons-with-jill-cook/
g) Apply the science and do some long duration (30-45s) lock-offs (120 degrees to begin with) at 70% RPE
h) Apply the rest of the science with some tendon stiffening protocols.
Thanks all. Knew I could count on fit club!
Thanks Matt, so far we don't have a lot of stuff for the baby and the bits we do have were all passed on second-hand. I don't really see the point in buying anything new when the world is swimming in baby stuff! I'll definitely have a look at second-hand running buggies when the time comes. At first, I think I'll just go out when Guy is around if I'm not asleep then zzzz
37/40 weeks last week.
Mon: run, 49:26 min, 6.65km/ 4.13miles, (7:26min/km) - overheated and spent the evening and some of the next couple of days feeling awful.
Tues- Sat: rest
Sun: walk/run, 1:11:18 min, 7.48km/ 4.64miles, (9:32min/km) - first 2 miles jogging but I didn't want to get ill again so moved to fast-ish walk for the final 2.5 miles. Then later in the day walked a few more miles around London in the sunshine.
I've had so much work to try and finish this week that I haven't had much time to think about anything else. Hopefully, it'll ease off this week and I'll be able to get out for a few more walks or runs.
Looks like climbing walls might be opening early July, not sure how they will feel about having a tiny baby there or if that is sensible at the moment.
> Looks like climbing walls might be opening early July, not sure how they will feel about having a tiny baby there or if that is sensible at the moment.
Parking a sleeping baby in a pram at the edge of the pads has never caused us any problems. You probably just need to hope that the walls you'll want to get on first (probably things that don't strain the core!) are near the edge of the pads. And listen to your body in terms of pace, obviously - when you can go back and how much you can do will obviously depend on how things go!
> Looks like climbing walls might be opening early July
On the assumption that, of the things which are significant enough to warrant a prime ministerial mention, climbing walls are most similar to indoor gyms, it would seem perhaps not.....?
The prospects of walls opening soon look grim to me.
Bones - this will seem unlikely and intimidating to start with, but believe it or not, the first few months are the best chance you will have for a long time to get outside with your little one, once you know what you need for a few hours outside the house. With two of you being climbers it will be easy to go out and have one of you watching the baby while the other one climbs/boulders. It's also possible on your own but obviously you have to accept your session is more likely to be disrupted! The main point is, it gets a lot harder once they are crawling, so take advantage of this first summer if you can
MicroAJM is now in the "mobile but stupid" phase; this is difficult from a climbing perspective. Even the sandpit-like crag bases of font are a hazard if all you want to do is eat dirt.
From about 12-18m miniAJM has been fine on bouldering trips. It helps that you don't need to actually do much bouldering to call it a good day!
For roped trips the lesson we learned in Kalymnos and then forgot and re-learned in Smith is that we get a lot more done doing day on day off than we do trying to climb and parent at the crag. We just don't get a half day of climbing in.
All children are different, more so as they get older - I suspect the mobile but stupid phase is more universal than our experiences subsequently...
That's what I thought. Will just climb whilst it sleeps, chills and hope that it doesn't cry for the entire two-hour slot we've booked. Climbing seemed fine the other week on toprope but I imagine once the baby is out there is a lot of space and stretched bits that need to go back. Lovely.
This has been incredibly upsetting news. Still, there are two weeks to go for the PM to sort his s#&t out. I've already written to the climbing walls to ask about taking a baby with all the distancing stuff. We'll just have to wait and see. A beer is my other top priority and that one is sorted.
I think I am imagining it to be really simple, just go out, put baby in safe housing basket thing, climb until baby needs you, sort baby, back to climbing. I will definitely try to take advantage before it starts moving around, very good advice. I also read you shouldn't leave it in a car seat for more than 2hrs at a time (some say much less) so long trips out of London could be trickier but we'll see.
> MicroAJM is now in the "mobile but stupid" phase; this is difficult from a climbing perspective. Even the sandpit-like crag bases of font are a hazard if all you want to do is eat dirt.
Mobile but stupid phase - hahahaha :D
> I think I am imagining it to be really simple, just go out, put baby in safe housing basket thing, climb until baby needs you, sort baby, back to climbing. I will definitely try to take advantage before it starts moving around, very good advice. I also read you shouldn't leave it in a car seat for more than 2hrs at a time (some say much less) so long trips out of London could be trickier but we'll see.
Yep, that's all about right. If you have a travel system with a bassinet attachment, they are ideal. The time it takes to "sort baby" can obviously vary, but if you get the nap time right you might not need to do it
The two hour limit in a baby car seat is general guidance, yes. I understand that it's because too long at once in that position can affect their physical development. I understand you can push it if you take a break part way through. But I'm not sure how strong the evidence is and how much you can relax if you only do it occasionally.
My experience is that you won't be able to go any longer than that anyway before either a nappy change is required or the baby is fed up and wailing.
> Mobile but stupid phase - hahahaha :D
Mine has been mobile but stupid for nearly 2.5 years now!
Thanks Matt. Another rather mixed week with the weather, and my return to something resembling normal form post-lockdown continues to be dismally slow.
STG: Finalise planning & book huts for July Dolomites trip
MTG: Autumn Kalymnos trip? Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Another fairly depressing session: warmed up then had one semi-credible go on a 7a which completely broke me for the rest of the evening.
W: Box step-ups (my new hobby) one hour.
T: Beastmaker, shoulders, wrist extensors. I broke my theraband! This either means my shoulders are getting strong or - more likely - after however many years it was time for a new theraband.
S: After last week's experience of driving all the way to the Frankenjura only to find everything soaking wet, made the opposite mistake today of being too easily frightened off by a slightly iffy weather forecast. In reality it would have been quite ok. Drove up in the evening instead.
S: Frankenjura. Hot, humid, generally a disappointing day in terms of performance. But I have a new project Späte Liebe (VIII): highly technical face climbing on slopers, very untypical for the 'jura. Utterly hopeless in today's conditions but lovely - on the to-do list for the autumn.
As Si said, as you both climb, you should be able to take turns in watching the baby. Also while they aren't mobile, it's much easier to do things like like that, cause the person watching the baby will easily be able to sit there and relax.
I would make sure you read the manual for the car seat/travel system, you will probably find that the limit you can drive before taking a break is much lower than 2 hours. We only ever did more than an hour a handful of times. Certainly in the first three months, I'd be wary of really going longer than 30 minutes without a break. Due to the obvious risks. I always wince when I see people carrying newborns in car seats on those awful travel system jobs. Once they can sit up properly, then longer stints are definitely possible.
Don't worry overly about it, you'll make it work ok I'm sure, it's just that priorities will change. However I know plenty of running/walking/climbing families and they all seem to be fit and getting out an ok amount. Also you're going into it very fit, so just look at the next few months as a maintenance phase, do enough to tick over and you'll find that when you're sorted out, you'll be able to get back into gear quickly.
As for the mobile and stupid that's a thing. Mine will still eat pretty much anything he can put in his mouth. Also now he's getting quite fast on his balance bike so crashes are becoming a thing.
Yeah, I'm sure it's fine for a few trips but perhaps not every weekend just yet. I suspect the limiter will be our sleep rather than time in a car seat.
Well, we won't be getting outdoors climbing much if that's the case but we'll just have to see. Hopefully, we can do some indoor climbing and maybe the odd trip. Our car seat doesn't fit into anything else (a buggy I guess?) so we'll have to put it in another thing to carry it around.
Thanks for all the advice all. Tbh in this heat all I want to do is curl up under a tree or go swimming in the sea, far too hot for climbing!!
STG - 14st / 30 minute 5k
MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - ???
Weight - 15st 1lbs (2lbs lost)
M - S - Nowt
Gentle week of not very much. Apart from the usual cake and beer consumption. As the weather has turned I've done more baking with my son, which means lots more cake in the house. I have been getting out for walk/runs with my son on his bike. He zooms off on the balance bike and depending as to where we are, I either jog next to him, or when we're in the meadow, stroll behind. However the big thing of the week was that I started trying intermittent fasting. It's broadly done something and I've still been able to keep up the cake consumption.
Our Friday Night Video this week was conceived and written by the 12-year-old presenter of the film, Archie Price Siddiqui. The film explores the mystery of whether Sandy Irvine and George Mallory summitted...