UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_694-7216...

Psyche video - vimeo.com/235418406

the sheep - Looks nice.  Glad you enjoyed the return to simming. 

AJM - Two nice sessions there.  Great week all in.  I feel ya on the kid lugging...

Si dH - Touche.  Hope the finger is ok this week?

Somerset swede basher - Noice job on the FA.  Lots of good sessions otherwise and some nice running and cycling mixed in.

AlanLitte - Alpspitze - still sounds good.  Otherwise some nice sessions and I'm loving the box stepping still.

Ally Smith - I've actually heard of Revelations, I'm very impressed.  Lots of excellent sessions there.

Tom Green - Thanks!  Impressive amount of work in there.  Glad the elbows are being sorted out.

Bones - Very nice considering.  It's worth keeping up gentle stuff as best as you can.

Thanks Matt as always.

M: rest

T: afternoon session.  I warmed up really slowly and well and after tentatively experimenting found that I could pull reasonably well on the pinches as long as I avoided crimps, so did some board climbing. I had a pretty good session although my finger felt quite tender that night so I might have overdone it a little bit, getting stuck in to my long term pinch project.

W: rest. Listened to the podcast Ally linked last week which had lots of interesting stuff in it, thanks. I had sort of forgotten about Power Company Climbing since listening to them a couple of times a couple of years back, there is some good stuff there.

T: evening fingerboard, mix of low load half crimping (feet on chair) and bodyweight 2 finger pocket hangs.

F: rest

S: morning trip to Gouther crag. It had to be an early start due to combination of 2 hour drive, 30 minute walk-in and childcare duties at home at 3pm! Nice to visit another new crag though. I did the classic J Mascis (f7A+) which was really good. Also did most of the moves on the sitter to it, which gets 7b+. I think with another 1-2 hours at the crag I could have done it. One to go back to along with the 7b there (Khukri) when I'm motivated for the drive or have someone else psyched to go with. (The motivation for the long drive this week was that I knew J Mascis was a compression problem that didn't require any crimping. This worked perfectly as I had no pain all day. Pleased to report that when warming up at the crag with my portable fingerboard it also felt good.)

S: morning fingerboard, mix of low load half crimping (feet on chair) and bodyweight 2 finger pocket hangs. Felt pretty good, no pain (although I'm still weak on pockets compared to 2-3 years ago.)

Good week compared to what I had expected. Finger improved throughout and I had a good trip out. Next weekend I'm travelling with family so might not get outside.  I'll try to do a 2 finger pocket session on Tuesday and then take my portable fingerboard and a few weights if I remember, so I can do some low load half crimp lifts while I'm away.

Si

Thanks Matt. A good week, a classic New Cuttings 6C+ ticked off, a token lap at Lulworth to feed the soul and a good Cave Hole DwS session on Tuesday to boot, got two potential ambitions to aim at for the rest of the season there now. Sadly this Tuesday the tides are rubbish in the morning and after that I’ve got a busy few weeks with half year financial reporting at work so weekends only. Looking for the positives, this gives me an opportunity to restart the decent home training regime that I had before ShPL started - I’ve found it too hard really to juggle whilst trying to get out climbing more. Hopefully I can keep ticking over with my weekend bouldering sessions with miniAJM and top up the tank midweek to fuel future crushing.....

Monday - climbing Tuesday so rest

Tuesday - climbing! Dws at cave hole again. Usual selection of warmups. Ummed and aahed a bit as to what to do - we wanted to get on Swinging Nineties but also wanted to use the high water on things that needed it. In the end, I had a fairly token go on Underbare first off. My main go though was on a potential link (It’s not recorded as a separate solo, I don’t think, although potentially someone has done it before). Not sure how hard it will be, but I made a decent stab and got to what I suspect is mid crux before taking a dunk. Psyched to give this another go. Then got on Swinging Nineties, ploughed through the early section with no problems but ground to a halt a little at the point where you change direction and head outwards rather than across. Took another dunk; also psyched to get back on this too.

Wednesday - rest, achey

Thursday -  busy at work and got a bit sidetracked. Nowt.

Friday - had the afternoon off and went to Lulworth with miniAJM. He had a whale of a time clambering round on the boulder beach and throwing rocks in the sea and one of my climbing partners very kindly looked after him for enough time for me to throw a quick lap on The Maypole so I even got a route in at Lulworth for the first time this year.

Saturday - took miniAJM out bouldering again. Fair to say at the start this didn’t go as well, we managed to get down to the boulders but it was really hot (the promised cloud never materialised - but what a beautiful day. Like a normal good day but with the saturation turned up - sea was so blue!). I tried Petty Thief which still appears debilitatingly hard, and then when I decided one of the other boulders was too dangerous to approach he threw a massive strop and got so sad that we had to leave and go find a place where we could watch the boats and the parked cruise ships to calm down and reset. After that we went to new cuttings where we sat round waiting for shade for ages. Eventually the sun went round far enough, I got everything set up, pulled on and did Phat Slapper just like that first go. A lot of faff for one problem but worth it. It’s just a shame that the logistics and conditions are a bit opposite at the minute - it’s best if I leave the house reasonably early so that MrsAJM gets all the days baby naps as completely child free time and so that I can get a parking space, but all the accessible crags for miniAJM are basically in the summer sun until lunchtime or early afternoon.

Sunday - tired and worked. As ever having a child in tow makes it a bigger day than mere numbers might suggest so I was tired today.....

Valiant effort keeping the dwindling band going Matt. Hopefully some more folks will join or re-join as life creeps back towards sort-of-approaching-normal.

STG: Finalise planning & book huts for Dolomites trip - now August if at all due to partner's ankle injury.
MTG: Autumn Kalymnos trip? Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Rest day. Half an hour mobility & stretching
T: Didn't make my normal Tuesday evening at the wall because I was out bike shopping with my son: more important. 
  Quick beastmaker session afterwards.
W: Attempted some repairs on my own bike, only to find that I seem to have a damaged set of hub gears that is way beyond my mechanical ability to fix. I fear an expensive workshop visit lies ahead.
    So, since I won't be riding anywhere for a while: back on the box (step-ups)
T: Boulderwelt. Since my son stopped going a couple of years ago I've generally bouldered alone. Today I met up with a couple of mates, and found the banter & a bit of competitive pressure actually good for getting myself to try harder on limit moves. Should do more of this.
F:    Half an hour shoulders, wrist extensors, mobility.
S: 
S: Martinswand: more bolted multipitch mileage. A dozen pitches, mostly pretty mellow except for the crux of one "V+" pitch - a couple of moves of pure friction slab that felt as hard as pretty much any friction slab moves I've ever done, up to & including La Science Friction (f6A). Austrian grades are harsh (so are Font slab grades for that matter).

Absolutely BRILLIANT psyche vid!! Makes Cheshire esoterica look like Font! 

(Not including Frodsham in ‘esoterica’ before anyone gets offended!)

Not much to report from me this week. Felt bleugh to varying degrees all week. Had a short session at Lees Bottom but was feeling pretty low on energy and didnt try anything too hard.

Cheers Matt, another week pretty much the same as the last. Got out for 4 runs, trails between 8-10 km and an open water swim with the eldest, around 4km so good distance.

On the plus side this weeks running racked up the 800km mark so will easily make the year goal of 1000 bar any disasters 

Lots of Mike Adams videos on vimeo are good for esoteric bouldering. Although he is really strong and really tall so there isn't always much on there that is doable by mortals  

Yeah, he makes those problems at Kitty’s crag look trivial. Whereas having stood looking mournfully up at them I can confirm they are not!

Lots of easier esoterica in that part of the county though too. Have you ventured down that way much Si?

Hi all. Thanks Matt for another week of encouragement.

An ok week... a few planned sessions managed to get away from me, partly because I've been a bit knackered. The week after this will be another light one though, so just need to keep at it for another seven days! 

Week 28: 

M: Rest.

T: Core -two sets.

W: Max Hangs. Limit Bouldering.

T: Strength sesh. Board sesh -aerocap circuits.

F: Hill run. 25.1km, 985m vert, 6:49/km. Started a bit fast. But was disciplined enough not to try and run the steep uphills, which was a win!

S: Shoulder & elbow prehab.

S: Bouldering at Harmers Wood. Super enjoyable -did the five big aretes (first time I'd tried Tweedledee (V0) as, although easy, it's flippin high!) and was chuffed to flash Bex (f6A). Annoyingly, I'm still struggling to leave the monos on Cheshire Cat (f6A) -think I need to ignore them and just commit to palming and smearing for the last section.

Week 29:

275 min Z1

30min Z3 (I'm still putting it up here, even though I never do it!)

2 Core sessions

2 Strength sessions

3 Climbing sessions (2 Aerocap; 2 Strength/Ancap; 1 Aeropow)

3 Prehab sessions

STG (End July):

Max Hangs 78kg total (TICK: 79.5kg)

Weighted Pull-Ups 90kg total 3RM (TICK: 92kg)

Squat 70kg 3RM 

Deadlift 85kg 3RM 

3 sets of core circuit. 

Cheshire Cat, Harmers Arete.

Curfew, Gaza Strippers.

Clean shunt/TR of Marlene in the Corner (E5 6a)  Imagination (E3 6a) 

Run the Stretton Skyline

MTG (End Sept):

Eliminator, Yates' Layaway.

Grid Iron, Traction Control.

Black Wall Direct, Red Square, Digitron.

Cheshire Gritstone Trail

No, not at all - I've always lived closer to more mainstream places. Ally might have?

Yeah, they’re pretty much local crags for local climbers. I enjoyed them when I lived half an hour away but I’ve got more local esoterica now!! 

STG - 14st / 30 minute 5k

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - ???

Weight - 15st

M - F - Nowt

S - 6 mile walk with 500m ascent

S - Nowt

Quite chuffed that I'd managed to get out and get a hill in.  First proper one in a very long time.  Actually quite surprised by how long as well (2015).  Intermediate fasting has largely gone by the wayside.  I'll definitely push to get another walk done next week, if the weather plays ball.  Also I'll try a bit harder with the fasting. 

I have also fallen off the bandwagon a bit, I need to maintain willpower better when tired. Have yoi found the intermittent idea helpful at all?

Nice Matt!

Yeah, it's a good idea.  I don't help my self by eating too much during the 8 hours you can eat.  I'm also not doing it for more than 3 or 4 days in a week.

AJM - Thanks!!!