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UKC Fit Club Week 703

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 mattrm 06 Sep 2020

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_702-724236

Si dH - Solid maintenance, which is important on those hard weeks.  Well done.

AlanLittle - Lots of decent training and routes this week, you're doing better than you think you are mate!

the sheep - Takes a while to get motivation back, so just take it easy till it does.

planetmarshall - Welcome back matey!  Hope the surgery goes well.

Somerset swede basher - Good cross training and well done on not hurting the finger.  Aldery Cliff looks like a nice crag.

AJM - Glad to hear the weekend was better.  Certainly looks like it.

biscuit - Consider your arse kicked then!  Otherwise it does seem like an ok week of training with a nice weekend of climbing and walking.

Ally Smith - Looks like a great week.  Lots of good board sessions and cycling.  Well done.

Tom Green - Well done on the E5.  Nice sport ticks as well.

miso - Sounds like a good race.

Cyan - I hope the typo was on purpose?  I've always found BH weekends to be overhyped, you're not alone.  Still least you got out.

Bones - The training plan sounds great.

mattrm - You lazy d**k get off your fat arse and walk up the hill.

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In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. Much thanks for your continued stats stint. More endurance this week while the finger continues to heal. 

Mon. Heeley boulder circuits session. Can't remember exactly what I did. I didn't do anything new. I did get outrageously pumped! 

Tues. My usual shoulder shrugs, pull ups, press ups planks routine. 

Wed. 10km run. 

Thurs. Another circuits session. Managed to do Grimer's circuit 2 (7b+) which I've fallen off the last move of several times in the past. Worked circuit 3.

Fri and Sat. Rest. 

Sun. Chee Dale, second session on Aberration. First tie in, dogged. 2nd tie in done in 3 sections. 3rd tie in, managed to get through the crux from the floor but fell off a couple of moves before the rest. Needs a bit of beta refining for that last bit up to the rest so not confident itl go next session but it's getting there. The rest is good and the top bit is a lot easier than the stuff before that so hopefully I'll be able to keep it together! 

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 AJM 06 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. I touched rock 4 days this week, with an assist from the Bank Holiday Monday and a micro session on Friday night. Been a great weekend. Probably the last hit of my dws season, unless we get a very nice October, but a good one to go out on. Looking forwards to Northumberland now.

Monday - as per last week - Saddle Tor. Despite my skin being in pieces I repeated the E1 microbouldersolo thing on the left and had a few goes on Dancing Queen - got back to my high point,, ruled out a potential line of enquiry over foot beta but didn’t make any further progress before my skin totally went.

Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday - nursing shredded skin

Friday - over to Portland. Set up the monster tent (we got ourselves a 20kg+ airbeam blackout family tent that I can stand up in; we thought if we were going to do it we should do it properly). After dinner and the kids going to bed I managed to nip off and do a couple of easy boulder problems in the dusk - no pads because they were being used as mattresses, which led to some hesitancy on Barn Door Arete since with a rocky landing and a rock behind I didn’t really fancy barn dooring!

Saturday - DWS. My friend came down, hadn’t been before so I played tour guide for a bit, smashed through about ten routes I think including repeating Ixtlan and Crab Party for the first time in years and reminding myself how ace they are. Then some lugging around of children for the rest of the afternoon.

Sunday - DWSs. Slower start - poor nights sleep and had to pack the tent down and things. Shorter window, we basically didn’t arrive until high tide, but a few more good bits of climbing and managed to do one of the classics off my ticklist, Russian Roulette, a proper classic. Fell off it with no fitness in June immediately post lockdown, felt a whole different experience this time, still tricky but excellent. Managed to catch up with Cyan briefly on the way home.

2020 goals:

- either some classic ticks or finishing one of my projects in the last few weeks of my dws season [Cavewoman, Russian Roulette]

- solidify 1.5-x-5 on the campus board. 5x5 @95kg. Progress on some sort of deadhang

- do some classic boulders and trad in Northumberland

- Coronation St with Rebecca?

- make it one of my best bouldering years [by 8a.poo points - 5400 versus 6668/6759/7106, some way to go yet]

- start using the wall again, probably mostly post Northumberland.

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In reply to mattrm:

Thought I'd anounced my return in last weeks post but it looks like I put it in week 701 by mistake!

So:

I'm back... but haven't done much in the way of climbing (or climbing specific training) for a while.

We did complete our Wainwright challange ticking off all 214 in 60 days in the end (the ones we did in April we re-did in a week at the end to bring the overall time down).

1366 miles travelled (487 walking, 879 cycling)

210,446 feet climbed (144,679 walking, 65,767 cycling).

As an example of some of the days: 100k on beat-up old mtn bikes to get to/from Keswick - Kentmere then 5 hr walking kentmere horseshoe. Or a short ride to Seathwaite before spending 14 hours around Langdale in the worst weather. Or Cycling over dunmail, red bank, wrynose, and hardnott just to bag 3 easy fells before cycling home.

It was hard - harder than my Bob Graham round at times. On the plus side I lost about 7kg.

Took it easy for a few weeks after that.

Then did some easy climbs (seconding) - Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a),The Wasdale Crack (HS 4c), [climb(8190,"Needle Ridge") and started running training and did a few BG leg 1s. Aslo restarted the weight training but 4 weeks ago pulled a pec/lat? muscle and have not been able to do much since.

Ohh, and I quit smoking, so that should help...

As for the past week:

M - My first leads - The Slab (VD) then Everybody's Dream (S 4a) at Upper Goat Crag with my dad. Really happy to have shared that with him as he's always been a climber and no doubt would have loved it if I had done this 30 years ago.

T - More leads - Tup (D),Ewe (D),Ram (VD),Lamb (VD) at Upper Shepherds. Then did some hill reps with the  club in the evening.

W - 5k easy around the park

T - A.m - 6k easy round the park. P.m. 9.5k (300m) run over/around Latrigg

F - Failed attempt at Son of Oz (HS 4c) - didn't have enough big gear (check out the size of the crack on the pic on that link) and it started raining and the wind picked up and I got scared. Fortunatly dad was there again (his 40+ years of KMRT experience made me feel a lot better about backing off)

S - 10.5k (339m) over around Latrigg

S - 11.5k (437m) visiting the gates at the bottom of Skiddaw and Lonscale Fell

So 6 leads and 50k of running with 1800m of vert is a bloody good week I think.

I've put on a few kg post Wainwrights and now at 70kg, 9.5kg body fat (13.6%) and 57.6kg muscle mass. Not a bad platform to (re)start from.

Goals:

Get some more trad leads done including Son of Oz and Fishers Traverse (that got me last year). Bowderstone crack still I suppose. And possibly a (mid?)winter BG?

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 Si dH 06 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> Si dH - Solid maintenance, which is important on those hard weeks.  Well done.

Thanks again Matt. I didn't elaborate last week as we were still in the middle of it, but the cause of the stress was that Sol tested positive for Covid. It was a pretty big shock, especially since his illness was mainly 10 days of snot with just one day of regular coughing thrown in (on the 4th day, which was when we started isolating). He hadn't been anywhere the week before except nursery, the park and a couple of cafes. My wife had a test with him and came back negative within 24 hours, his result took another 3.5 days due an IT system error (apparently) and was then positive! I'm fairly sure I've had it too - I got a tickly throat and a dry cough that lasted just over a week starting the day he was tested, but didn't get tested myself at the time as we were already then isolating and it was only ever about one cough per 1-2 hours, so I didn't think it met the criteria. In hindsight I wish I had, to be sure. In the event I was still coughing this last Wednesday with us due to enter the world again on Friday, so I booked a test on Thursday which thankfully came back negative. 

Self isolating was psychologically harder than the initial lockdown, partly because you can't go for a walk at all and partly because everyone else is going about their normal lives. Very glad it's over now, even though for us it only lasted about 10 days. We are all completely well now so have got off lightly.

Main lesson learned for me, and for all of you with young kids - they can definitely get Covid with a lot of snot, whatever the papers say! We dodged a bullet with my mum, who spent several hours with him when ill but the day before the cough started. She has been fine fortunately. I will definitely be more cautious in future with vulnerable grandparents if he has a bug of any sort.  Oh and finally, the test isn't too bad for small kids, as they don't make them do the throat swab. We only had to do a gentle version of the nose swab for a few seconds, but it was obviously enough. Thanks to AJM too for mentioning that he had got his own son tested the other week - I had previously seriously questioned whether it would be possible in the event Sol got ill as I found a previous test so unpleasant myself, but this convinced me that I at least needed to try (and it came the day before Sol started coughing.)

Sorry for the waffle. It feels cathartic to write it down.

M: Did my some TRX hamstring curls, plus prone Ts, prone Ys and low rows.

T: max hangs then a board session. The prone Ts from Monday worked my chest muscles really hard and I had major DOMS. This made me realise how much one-arm max hangs work your chest! I managed a good session though. On the board I did one of the 7As I had set on Saturday, and another new 6C+ish thing.

W: another TRX session as per Monday. Chest muscles still sore but they settled down better after this one. Made me realise that maybe they are something I should work on more.

T: Max hang session and some hamstring curls.

F: End of self isolation. Had the afternoon off work to do some childcare and took Sol to Pex Hill. I managed to do Silly Boy (V3), which is V4 in the guidebook and felt tough for that (good though). I tried Vitalite (V6) again (I've had one previous session, last Nov/Dec I think) but felt very weak on the top moves. I generally find Pex very hard, I think it's something to do with being poor on slopey 2/3 finger pockets, having inflexible hips, or both.

S: rest

S: I had the whole day to play with so thought I could go a bit further than usual. Toss up between Wales and the Lakes, Lakes won based on the weather forecast. Big mistake! I drove up to Carrock Fell but at 1030am it was still in permanent heavy rain. Decided to carry on to the Bowderstone and come back after a couple of hours. Tried to repeat Picnic Sarcastic (f7A+), felt pleasingly strong on the first few moves but the move left felt all wrong, not sure if I was missing a knack in one of my hand positions. Then the heavens opened even more so that even the top of Picnic got wet and it was impossible to keep my pads remotely dry. Huddled under the rock and tried to work the sit start to Picnic. Sorted a sequence that works after quite a while experimenting, then left to have another look at Carrock. It was drying but only slowly and there were loads of midges about. Decided to bale and drove 2 hours back down the motorway to go to the wall instead. First time at the original Hangar in Liverpool since lockdown. Had an ok session but it was really busy, not easy to keep social distance from people. Decided to do some volume and focused on reds which are V4-5. Did about 12 or so of them. Found that I was powering out at the top of the harder and longer ones. Felt like I had worked hard afterwards.

Despite still kicking off the cough the first few days, this was a good week for training, I got a lot done.  Happy now - just a shame about the combination of poor weather forecast and rookie crag choice today! I need a way of gaining the crag and conditions knowledge for the North West and Wales that I had built up for the Peak.

Si

Post edited at 22:14
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 AJM 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Glad to see you back out again now Si. I can imagine isolation being more of a pain now it isn't "the new normal" like it was in April. Good to hear everyone got through ok.

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 Ally Smith 07 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the effort in pulling the stats together Matt :-D

SidH - Doesn't sound like a bad choice in venue selection. For me it was a toss up between going out Sat morning or Sun afternoon. Weather forecast was initially very similar for both; guess I got lucky with Wales on Saturday morning. 

Week 36: 

BHM – Shoulders and thumbs knackered from holding drill/hammer/handlebars from previous 2 days. Brief warm-up in Cave of Justice. Despite feeling a bit broken, most importantly I managed to burn Gareth off. Castel y Gwynt: Nouvelle Cuisine. It felt greasy and it’s a sandbag at 7b+. Dogged and ran away.  Dog, dog, RP on When the Lyon Sleeps, 7c. Thin, sharp boulder crux; tamed by PyB Dave turning up and pointing out the foot hold I wasn’t using. Excellent day out – much banter and heckling.

T – Rest. Gentle stretching only.

W – Board session. Struggled with a split seg. Worked a couple of 7C benchmarks and did both in over-lapping chunks. Completed nemesis 7A jump problem :-D and the last of the 6C+ benchmarks. 10 remaining 7A benchies to go :-o Finished with 4x12 45kg bench-press. Splits stretches.

T – 33km at 29kph road bike including Artists lane climb. 5x 6reps on-the-minute pull-ups (BW+7kg) then 7/3/6/1 aero-cap FB (BW-20kg)

F – Think I was lazy – can’t remember

S – Quick mission to Roof of a Baby Buddha. Did the stand (6C+) and alternate starts (Buddha Belly (V7)) in quick order, but couldn’t fathom out a decent sequence on the full line. Had to run away to be back in time for in-laws arrival and a bunch of furniture swapping about (nursery prep). Good news was that tweaky L middle finger tolerated the roof pocket admirably and even felt better after the session than before

S – Lots of house, garage and garden faff. Feeling knackered and took advantage of opportunity for afternoon snooze. Obviously this meant that my brain was still whirring when I went to bed and didn’t sleep as well as I might have. Splits stretches.

Post edited at 08:44
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 AlanLittle 07 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> AlanLittle - Lots of decent training and routes this week, you're doing better than you think you are mate!

Thanks Matt. The fight back to something like pre-lockdown level was hard & discouraging, but I think I'm there or thereabouts.

STG: Sport: 7a redpoint, hopefully reducing the large & growing collection of projects.
      Trad: I haven't completely abandoned hope of getting something done in the Dolomites this summer subject to there being a weekend of appropriate local conditions (thunderstorms, covid etc).
MTG: Autumn Kalymnos trip. Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Rest day. 

T: Wall, Freimann. Lattice board benchmark session to see where I stand on the run-in to my power endurance phase. Slightly better across the board than the last time I did this in April 2019. Which I found both surprising and encouraging - if anything I would have said I was fitter then than I am now. Let's see where I stand at the end of the month.
    Followed by half an hour core on rings.

W: Half an hour mobility & shoulders

T: Wall, Weyarn. Lattice Capacity Power session #2, including one route that felt ridiculous when I tried it in my first post-lockdown session in May, on which I nearly managed a double lap today. Encouraging. 
    15 minutes ARC to wind down after the power endurance work and 15 minutes core on rings.
    While I was doing this my son took his new roadbike out for a 75-miler. #prouddad
    
F: Rest day. I have the beginning of a cold. I hope. Sneezing, slight headache, slight sore throat. No cough, no fever.

S: Cold symptoms not gone away. Called partner to cancel climbing Sunday - normally with just mild cold symptoms I'd go anyway, but in current circumstances that would feel irresponsible.

S: Feeling fairly crappy, did a token lattice/crimpd  fingerboard 40% aerocap session. I hate repeaters, but with an A3 pulley still feeling fragile I didn't want to risk trying max hangs.

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 the sheep 07 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt, another low volume week. However lots of life distractions, kids back to school and work being a bit daft as well as an increase in the kids swim and run training.

Managed an open water swim Tuesday evening. 

Sunday went out for a nice trail run. 11.5km and hilly. Need to get some distance in as I have a 10 mile race/event on the 19th!

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 Tom Green 07 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Morning folks. Thanks for another week of keeping us on the righteous path, Matt. Don't think I can call it an E5 from my toprope ascent! (although, weirdly, it feels a lot more realistic to lead than a lot of routes three grades lower!)

Week 36:

M: Climbing on the slate -I always forget how amazing the slate quarries are! Highlight was Californian Arete (E1 4c) -another 'STG' from a couple of summers ago ;-p Would be a fairly mediocre VS if it had gear, but being a compulsory solo turns it from 'meh' into a fantastic experience!

T: Sport climbing at Llanymynech. Poor session, felt knackered after a few days on. Pathetically lobbed off Curfew three clips from the top. Gentle evening run with other half.

W: Long work day.

T: Max strength sesh. Started putting some weight back on for pull-ups after a bit of time-out for elbow (p)rehab.

F: Rest -unintentional, the day just got away from me. 

S: Hill run. 94 min Z1, 13.3km, 398m vert, 7:05/km. Felt pretty heavy-legged after a couple of weeks of minimal running.

S: Climbing at Gogarth. Arrived in unforecasted piss-down rain, but an hour or so of tea-drinking let the sun do it's stuff and the rest of the day was dreamy. Highlight was Zeus (E2 5b) Nice to feel that the board sessions and jamming practice are paying dividends -previously steep cracks/jug pulling like the last pitch of Zeus would have been my nemesis, but now its gone from antistyle to relatively relaxed.

Week 37:

Plan my MTGs!

2 runs -Get back to long runs.

2 Core session

1 Strength session

2 Climbing sessions 

2 Prehab sessions

STGs (end Sept):

Max Hangs: 82kg total 

3 sets of my muscular endurance circuit.

3 sets of my core circuit. 

Cheshire Cat, Harmers Arete, Eliminator, Yates Layaway.

Curfew, Grid Iron, The Deep.

Black Wall Direct, Red Square, Digitron.

Cheshire Gritstone Trail

MTGs:

Still TBC

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 Tom Green 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Steve Jones:

Good effort with the Wainwright mission. Especially repeating some to tidy up the timing!

Great work quitting smoking too. Feeling better yet, or still worse?!

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 Tom Green 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Sounds pretty fraught! Glad you've all come through it ok.

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 Si dH 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks. 

Good effort on Californian Arete. It looks amazing but very scary in videos I have seen - your trad head must be in a good place. 

Post edited at 11:08
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 AlanLittle 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Si dH:

> Good effort on Californian Arete.

Seconded. I've been up to the first tricky section on it, and down again, twice before deciding it was incompatible with my parental responsibilities

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 Tom Green 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Si dH and AlanLittle:

Thanks both. I think the hardest part was actually making the decision to go for it. Once I’d pulled on it all felt very ‘in the zone’. Although I did feel the need to test every hold before using it... it was all solid but just gave a vibe of needing to be checked!

The trad head thing is a funny one... I think I actually deal better with ‘very bold but very easy’ than I deal with ‘not bold but quite hard’! I get more gripped a metre above a bolt or bomber piece of kit when the moves are hard than I do on something like CA. I definitely need to get back in to the habit of fall practice and falling off more. I absolutely love soloing easy rock... my best rock climbing days have been big solo days of diffs and severes!

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 AlanLittle 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

That was pretty much me in my trad climbing days too. Was fine tiptoeing up a slab looking down at a couple of small wires, but terrified of getting pumping and actually falling into space no matter how obviously bomber the gear might be.

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In reply to Tom Green:

Re the wainwrights - we we going for 80 days, what with the whole Jules Verne thing, then my friend asked "would 60 days sound more impressive" - I wish I'd answered differently...

Re smoking - I knew what to expect from the last time I quit (10 yrs ago). The worst part is the nightmares (not so bad this time) and waking up evey hour in the night drenched in sweat - think I was loosing over a liter a night. That lasted about a week. Running helped massively (filling time and knackering me out), and the first big-ish run after not having a rollie for 24hrs I managed to knock a minute of my time from home to top of Catbells - and felt so good I kept on going past Maiden Moor. I was using super-strong patches but didn't even make it through a weeks worth - just didn't need them. Still avoiding the usual triggers (certain friends and pubs) just to be sure.

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 Si dH 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Thanks for the effort in pulling the stats together Matt :-D

> SidH - Doesn't sound like a bad choice in venue selection. For me it was a toss up between going out Sat morning or Sun afternoon. Weather forecast was initially very similar for both; guess I got lucky with Wales on Saturday morning. 

Yes I guess I'd hope that with a bit more experience I could have predicted it was too still for the conditions at Carrock to be any good at that temperature anyway (and for it to dry fast). I also thought about looking at Longridge but had no idea whether it would be dry, covered in seepage or run-off or both. It's all a learning process

Post edited at 16:03
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 biscuit 07 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt,

Had a bit of a mindset change this week - for the better.

M - Bank Holiday Monday and had been dry for a few days. Chapel head was the first candidate but then thought it'd be busy and in full sun so we decided to check out  Humphrey Head

What a great crag. Had a look at the poorly named Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man (7b+) but decided it was too hard. There's a new line next to it Coup de Grace (7b+) i checked out as well. It's way harder than the other line. Looks like great climbing but never 7b+. One for the future?

Played on the excellent Firing Squad (7a+) amongst others

T - BFRT

W - Nothing

T - Back to Humphrey Head. I was a bit annoyed that i just pulled on the holds of HHMaSM and declared it too hard. I didn't actually give it full beans. I dedicated the session to it to see what would happen. After a few stiff pulls you get a good rest and then 12 moves to finish. I eventually did all 12 moves and linked from the rest to the crux (the last 3 moves).

Much improved and I realised that this year I haven't really given anything 100%. Quick ticks are nice but in future i need to balance it out a bit with some try hard sessions too.

F - Rest

S - BFRT, half hour run, stretch

S - Humphrey head again. Same result as last time. Unable to get one move, which stops me getting to the last move. I can't see a way round it atm so i may well move on. I can only get a few goes on it as it's very sharp. I had a flash go at Shooting the Load (7a) but fell off going for what i thought was the finishing jug but was actually a rubbish sloper in disguise.

Good things this week - i had a word with myself and have re-discovered try hard and how strong my fingers actually are. I could hold the tiny sharp holds but couldn't pull on the crux move to get to the next hold.

Discovered a new crag that has got lots of good routes to go back for. Firing squad is brilliant.

This week we will hopefully head back to humphrey head. Not sure as yet if i'll go back on HHMaSM or tick the 7a's and 7a+'s. 

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 rossislegend 08 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Evening everyone, been lurking for a couple of weeks and due to a couple of factors I've decided that now is a good time to join the club - I've finished one of the last of my local evening projects (Hawkeye (V7)), after this it starts at about 7C, which is a hell of a jump! Days are getting shorter and weather less reliable so evening sessions will be harder too. I think I've also identified my main weaknesses:

1) Lack of power. I used to consider myself a powerful climber but I've since realised that I'm actually just a lanky sloth, mistaking reach and strength for power! Muscle-ups and campusing on the menu for this.

2) Flexibility, notably in the hips, so a nightly stretching routine has been made and I'll try that for a couple of weeks and see if anything needs adding, removing or tweaking.

Plan for this week:

M - Originally was gonna hit up the crag but it rained in the day and didn't want to gamble on conditions, so rested and stretched.

T - Originally planned on heading to a local FA project but was really not in the right mindset. Eventually convinced myself to head to some local street workout things (pullup bars and parallettes, I shall refer to them as "the bars" at the risk of sounding like an alcoholic). Did 4 or 5 sets of 3 muscle ups, followed by 3 sets of 5 dips and 2 sets of 10 pushups. Might do another set or two before my stretches before bed.

W - Rest, stretches.

T - Depending on how well I've recovered from Tuesday I'll either go to the FA project (or get sad and sack it off to the bars again) or do a circuit at Nesscliffe. Will round it off with some pushups at the crag and some stretches back home.

F - Rest, stretches.

S - Rest, stretches.

S - Grit, grit, grit! Haven't decided on a crag but now it's getting a bit cooler I fancy a good day out. Unfortunately my usual grit partner has a sprained ankle so is just sport climbing at the minute.

Goals: 

Rehab A2 tweak

Tierdrop

Old King Cascade

Indifference

1-4-7

One arm pullup

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 Tom Green 09 Sep 2020
In reply to rossislegend:

Wow... That’s a lot of muscle-ups! Strong!!

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 rossislegend 09 Sep 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers! I think I chose the ideal number to start at because the last rep was absolutely desperate and I had to kip a lot. Hopefully doing them over the coming weeks will allow me to get them a lot cleaner and then increase the reps per set.

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In reply to mattrm:

Hey Matt,

Out of self-isolation so power week (and definitely feeling it).

  • Bank Holiday checked out the local  Castle Rock, Gloucestershire with a nice 8km walking loop as collateral. TRed the E4 and it will definitely go on lead (just sketchy/fiddly gear) so that's sadly not going to be entertaining for long.
  • Burbage North Fallen Slab Lip (f7A) - tried this briefly before lockdown and had two overlapping halves. Got it 3rd go after remembering that resting between attempts is good. Keen to try the 7B version.
  • Two sessions at the Unit (greens (nails!), pinks, oranges and a blue (V5-7)) and one at Boulders Cheltenham. No board sessions but built a hang board attachment. 
  • 8km hill run
  • Core 
  • Extreme herb gardening in Peak - 7 big bin bags filled with 6 months of overgrown sage and rosemary. Sage stinks. 
  • Yoga every damn day. And since I'm a qualified teacher maybe I should offer Fit Club a Zoom session sometime!?

MTG:

  • Early Doors (f7A+) - was close on this a couple of years ago and after Burbage this weekend, the kind of moves needed feel possible within current fitness and strength. 
  • Fallen Slab (No Arête) (f7B) - as above
  • Pincha and handstand
  • DWS - just do some before it's too dark and cold
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In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Feel free to flood us with beta if you work out the fallen slab eliminate. I couldn't work out how to get off the floor!

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In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Does it refer to eliminating the arête that would be the usual first couple of right hands? I plan to start with feet in the same place but use the flake more if so...

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In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

It was a couple of years ago that I tried it and my guide book is in my 'car library' but from memory I assumed I was trying to eliminate the arete round to the left. I can't remember which hand I was grabbing it with though, presumably the left?

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 miso 11 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. In retrospect, a race is always great.

Having spent the week recovering from the race, we headed to Saxony for an introduction to the climbing there over the weekend. Being quite inexperienced, we were happy to have an organised course introducing us to this special style of climbing. No gear except slings, knots, and ufos (these https://cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/114522.jpg). I cannot find the climbs that we did in the Logbook, but according to Saxon rules we shan't claim them anyway - haven't lead them. Saxon Sandstone is special. 

It was fun though and we had a good time out. Not the first area I would visit as a novice climber but probably one where you can learn for climbing everywhere. It brought into perspective what could be worked on over winter in the gym. That is, MTG is just better footwork, footwork, footwork. 

Cheers

Chris 

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 Bones [:B 11 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the encouragement Matt. Did you walk up the hill yet??

Mon: rest

Tues: strength session, 2 sets in park gym -
30 second plank x 2 (20 seconds x 3 on second round)
10 hanging knee-raises
10 squats
10 one-leg squats on each leg onto a low bench
10 assisted chin-ups
10 assisted pull-ups
10 push-ups with arms raised on bench (5 on second round)

Weds: 6.5-mile walk

Thurs: rest

Fri: rest

Sat: boulder session

Sun: 6.45km (4-mile) run, 7:15 min/km

Training plan short-term is to start doing things regularly for a few weeks before setting more goals. 

My initial weekly plan just to get me going again:

2 x runs

1 x climb

1 x fingerboard session

2 x short strength sessions

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 mattrm 13 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG - Y Fal 2h door to door

MTG - Y Fal 1h 45m door to door

LTG - Y Fal 1h 30m door to door

Weight - 15st 1lbs

M - S - Rest

Just realised I stuffed up last week's post, cause I spent a whole morning and an evening chainsawing and chopping wood up, but didn't put it down.  It was a good workout as you can probably imagine.  I've got another 2 or so car loads of wood at my mates house, so I'll have plenty of wood from him for next winter.  Always good to get free stuff and it's very satisfying.

So this week I didn't do anything.  Again, general lack of motivation and the evenings drawing in clobbered things a bit.  Did manage to get a bit of DIY done tho.

I do have some climbing booked up in the next few weeks tho, which is a nice change.

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