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Ukc Fit Club week 708

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 AJM 12 Oct 2020

Placeholder for now.....

 Si dH 12 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. 

M: rest (away with work)

T: rest I think (I got home early evening)

W: did some fingerboarding and a board session in the evening. [The fingerboard might have been Tuesday! :oS] Felt a bit weak. Struggled to complete 7 seconds at +31kg on the lattice edge (6 hangs.) The board session was better, not brilliant but I set a new 7A with some cool moves.

T: rest

F: max hang session. I dropped back to +23 kg as this is about 90% of max. Did six hangs at this weight. Was ok.

S: rest

S: first visit to Kentmere. I did Negative Reality Inversion (f6C+) and The Hole (f7A+). For a second I thought I was going to flash The Hole, then I realised the hardest move wasn't where I thought it was. After I'd done it I also went for a look at Runs on Weasel (f7B) but could hardly pull on - it was roasting in the sun and the starting left hand was really sharp, so one to leave for when I've got fresh skin and the temps are colder.

Struggling to remember when I did stuff at the start of the week but it was definitely one board session and two max hang sessions altogether.

Enjoyed the trip to Kentmere. Bit worried we might get locked down in Merseyside later today, which would mean either focusing on my board for a while or learning the delights of Pex and the Breck a bit more. We'll see.


 Ross Barker 12 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for this, was wondering where it all was.

Last week:

M - Light stretches

T - Light pumpy fingerboarding to recruit fingers, followed by 5 sets of 3 muscle-ups, 4:30 rest and stretches. Finished with a handful of dips and pushups but too fatigued to continue

W - Rest

T - Session on indifference (V5). Warmed up thoroughly at home which went quite well, needed to top up the warmth at the crag but not bad considering about 30 minutes between finishing the warmup and pulling on. Conditions were good too, nice and cool, but not enough. I've either slightly lost the knack of the problem or the holds have deteriorated a bit. Unsure whether to sack it off for a later date or to siege it, thinking sack off due to how infuriating it is to dry fire off the shallow pinch and land on my arse.

F - Rest

S - Rest, planned on max hangs but just never really got around to it.

S - Max hangs, 6x10s with 2m rest, +4kg. Really need to sort out the swing of the board. Stretches just before bed. Weather was mint but no time to get out.

I'm finding now that I'm recovering quite well from my power sessions, only needing a day now instead of the two. I'll do another session this week, then I'll try a few weeks of power pulls instead of muscle-ups as per a friend's recommendation.

Next week:

M - Rest

T - Power session

W - Rest

T - Unnamed local project, unless weather doesn't comply, otherwise max hangs.

F - Rest

S & S - Hopefully a day out somewhere, maybe  Thorn Crag?


Rehab A2 tweak (felt good this week, if this theme continues then I'll consider this goal complete)


Old King Cascade

Unnamed Local Project

 AJM 12 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

My week was planned to be quiet - a few days rest to coincide with MrsAJM going back to work and microAJM starting nursery, and then my parents down late week. My hope had been to get out climbing at the weekend.

All was upset mid week with the news of a Covid case at nursery which means miniAJM has to isolate for a week and a bit, which meant I could no longer take him out.

I instead decided to go out walking in the sunshine on both days with microAJM, which was nice - we’ve definitely slumped into more fixed patterns with #2 so I’ve probably spent less time with her than I had miniAJM at an equivalent age, and of course the weather was glorious (https://www.instagram.com/p/CGNLZgZDYeu/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)

Feeling a bit achey today, haven’t carried a heavy pack for several hours for a little while. But it was nice.

I also did some thinking about next objectives. Next potential trips/holidays for me, Covid permitting, are Easter (bouldering in the uk somewhere?) and then June (less sure, maybe roped climbing, perhaps Frankenjura, but still lots of potential for change to that). So basically strength, and some work on an aerobic base, over the winter and then a burst of power endurance in the spring.

2 adults working and 2 children shut up in the house will make for a hectic start to this week, but I’m keen to try to fit some training-as-childminding (rings or something with miniAJM?) into the daytime and push some work into the evenings - my problem usually is that things I have to do like work dominate the daytime and then things I should do like training fall by the wayside when I’m tired in the evenings, so I’m trying to see this as an opportunity. Plus MrsAJM started work on relaying a floor this weekend and we need to finish that this week.

 Ally Smith 12 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

Last week my wife submitted her PhD thesis so we've run away to the SW for a week of RnR before the viva and sproggle arrival. 

3 garage bouldering sessions last week, though one was only 45minutes long.  Managed my longest board project with a tick of "Sensei" hard 7C on Saturday morning. 

No other training or biking.  

 mattrm 12 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the placeholder.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html 1    also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Psyche vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9I9C9CZ3lc&feature=youtu.be

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_707-725906

Si dH - Sounds like a nice week with some good ticks.  Well done.

AlanLittle - Hope Kaly goes well.  The taper seems sensible.

AJM - Also a nice week with some good ticks.

Steve Jones - Definitely a good week.  I would generally take stars with a pinch of salt, but I'm sure you can work up to the 7a if you want.

Ross Barker - Good board session and a good hangboard session, well done.

Tyler - Decent abmount of training.  Hope you enjoy being let out again.

Ally Smith - Decent wodge of training and riding in.  Excellent job.

Tom Green - Any other fitness goals that you could do locally that might interest?  I've found a lot of fun from doing things I wouldn't do normally, which are very local.  Lots of ace sessions in there.

Somerset swede basher - Good efforts this week and well done on the 7b+.  Also lots of nice cardio in there.

mattrm - I guess as least you did a walk...

the sheep - Never not stretch.  It's going to be another damp winter, I know it.  How fast are you in the pool out of interest?

biscuit - Lots of impressive sounding conditioning and other training.  Stick to the plan!

Post edited at 12:31
 Tyler 12 Oct 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> Decent abmount of training.  Hope you enjoy being let out again.

I have although it looks like it might only be a temporary reprieve for us up here in Lancs...

T: Decided to try my stair reps with a 10Kg vest. Managed 20 mins before dinner, was enough to convince me these aren't much good, prefer squats for intensity and going outside otherwise.

W: Self-isolation ends so I hit the Outhouse, very excited. Managed Orange and red circuits so not that far down on two weeks earlier but fitness poor.

T: Ate to a stand still

F: Outhouse, didn't even complete the warm up, screwed on some Crimson Crimps, pottered then went home. Not enough rest after Wednesday

S: In the absence of TFNA I dug out Extreme Alpinism. Containing as it does such vignettes as "Don't climb for fun, climb to punish your body" I'm not sure it's for me! Decided to experiment with hill reps but only managed two before my calf knotted up (other leg to the one that stopped me running a few weeks ago). Reckon I should aim for an average of 15-17 mins per rep (140 meters vert) and just build up volume rather than speed. Coincidentally 10 of these is the same vertical gain as the Walker Spur, fate....?

S: Outhouse, managed my Crimson Crimp problem. Short of time but managed red and orange again. Went for sport massage putting into practise Mark Twight's 'punish your body mantra'. I'm like one of those blokes who goes into curry houses and asks for the hottest thing on the menu and is then too embarrassed to not eat it! I asked for a deep massage but even so I think there was an element of vindictiveness to some of the masseuse's moves!

Weight 11:5

 AlanLittle 12 Oct 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Pre-Kaly deload week

STG: Kalymnos: tick at least two of either my existing projects or other classic routes 7a upwards.
MTG: Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: 40 minutes mobility, shoulders, core
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Roof boulders & steep circuits. This was the first time since lockdown that I've been at a wall - or any other situation - that I found unpleasantly/worryingly crowded. Had only intended to do a short tapering session anyway, so quitting early was no great sacrifice.

W-F: Stretching, packing, sleeping

S: Kalymnos. Alpine start for 06:50 flight, after which my partner not unreasonably declined my suggestion to head up the hill for a few quick routes at Gerakios in the afternoon. But we're here!

S: Kalymnos: leisurely start, headed up to Spartan Wall/Afternoon for a pleasant day in the shade. Did half a dozen pleasant easy pitches to acclimatise & warm up, then Panakia (6c). Slipped on a polished foothold on the onsight attempt, then got it fairly easily second go. According to the logbooks I am far from being the only person this has happened to. A good start to the trip.

 AlanLittle 12 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

I'd be delighted to meet up for a day or two if you do make it to the Frankenjura next summer.

In reply to mattrm:

" Steve Jones - Definitely a good week.  I would generally take stars with a pinch of salt, but I'm sure you can work up to the 7a if you want."

Haha, yea, but figured it'd be a good way to whilttle down all the routes into a managable batch. It'll still all depend on what is OK on the day, and not busy, but if I can work through my tick-list all the better! With the 7a in mind, I've got the crucher holds mount on order as I think it should just fit onto my squat rack. Just need to work out how to get my 2nd-hand Moon board on there, and maybe invest in the new lattice tripel twin holds, and I can finally do some climbing focused training!

M - 15km (440mD+) run and an hour or so of weights (bench press and pull ups)

T - 7.5k (345m D+) run followed by squats and deaflifts

W - more weights (bench press etc) followed by 7.5k (345m D+) run

T - BGR leg 5 17km (700mD+) - v easy - lacking energy for the climbs and grip on the descent!

F - Bench press routine at lunch, the a 5k flat run followed by squats and deadlifts in the evening

S - 8.7k (270m D+) run in the morning and the weights in the evening (shoulder press, delt stuff and barbell rows)

S - 10k (350mD+) - was knackered after that week but dragged myself out.

Now taking it easy for a few days before helping out with a triple BGR at the weekend...

The downside is with the weight training is I've not been bothered about how much I'm eating on the hopes that I'll put on a bit of muscle, but so far it's a bit to much fat! Put on 4kg since the start of september that is 50:50 muscle and fat... but as I just watched a film and ate a whole tub of pringles and a whole pack of digestives (dark choc) all by myself I shouldn't be surprised... I think I'll try not to worry too much for the rest of the month just to make sure I get calories to make gains, then be a bit more sensible come November

 Tom Green 13 Oct 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi all. Thanks AJM and Matt. 

Another mad work week last week, with training suffering as a result and a lot of burning midnight oil. Off for a week climbing (so training will still suffer!) so should be a good antidote to last week. 

Week 41:

M: Fingerboard sesh

T: Board Sesh. Really productive AnCap and Circuits with some bonus fist crack laps to finish.

W: Long work day. Prehab

T: Long work day

F: Managed to grab a quick Craig y Longridge hit between jobs. Drip dodging but otherwise good cons. Highlight was Haardvark (V3) which felt reasonably easy -possibly due to the fact that my board is an identical angle and size to CyL!

S: Prehab.

S: Trail run. 96min Z1. 16.1km, 158m vert, boggy. 

 AJM 13 Oct 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

> my board is an identical angle and size to CyL!

Length, or height

 AJM 13 Oct 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

I'll keep you posted then!

 Tom Green 13 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

Length would be great... I’d be the king of traversing ;-p

 Si dH 13 Oct 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

How numerous were the drips, was there much dry? I was thinking of a trip next weekend if there are no huge downpours in the meantime.

 Tom Green 13 Oct 2020
In reply to Si dH:

The majority of stuff was dry up to the top break. It was dripping from the upper head wall, so depending on the problem the back of your mat could get a bit wet.
A few lines were seeping from within the crag so that starting footholds were wet for sitters.

Plenty to go at though and decent cons apart from the normal perma-soapy holds that are rest points on the traverse!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Matt, Great stats as always.

Hi AJM - good to see you back!

Mon - rest.

Tues - went down to Cemetery park.  Still couldn't do the jump move on Basic Instinct (7B) but did manage a surprise send of The Power (f7C).  I'd worked the top before but not been able to do it after the first bit. Today I found a cheeky knee bar that made the start much easier.  The top is still a massive crank off the left arm, you grab an undercut above your head with the left and your right is on a sloper that gets worse as you get higher.  You build you feet and just keep reeling in the undercut til its at waist height then flick up for a reasonable sidepull with the right. Awesome!

Wed - 8km run.

Thurs - Headed down to the tor after Lees Bottom and Blackwell turned out to be wet.  Warmed up doing High Green RH (f7A) which I've not done before then got stuck into trying Converter (7C).  I did all the moves except the foot release which is going to require some better beta i think.

Fri - rest

Sat - Back to cemetery park as I only had an hr.  Managed to do When Boosh comes to Shef (f7B+) and Grit in one Eye (f7B+). The first one is definitely overgraded! I've tried the second and not been able to do the roll over move at the start or flick to the undercut but it felt ok today.  Also did Torque to me (f7B) which I didn't think I'd done before but according to my logbook I had.

Sun - rest and lots of marking so I can get out more next week!

Post edited at 09:24
 the sheep 13 Oct 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> the sheep - Never not stretch.  It's going to be another damp winter, I know it.  How fast are you in the pool out of interest?

Cheers Matt. Since getting back in the pool I have been able to do 1km comfortably in around 17 minutes. Not done 2k for a while so went for it today and put in a 35.27 which felt good. Both times are around 2 minutes down on where i was going into lockdown but at that point i was training for summer triathlons. 

Still its nice to be able to swim again whilst at work, just need to make more time for running and at some point dust off the bike. The plus side is that if i keep the running up its pretty easy to get back on the bike. Also to add into the mix I have been doing hand paddle interval drills in the pool. I just log the overall distance here.

Monday, 1km swim

Tuesday, 8.5km trail run. Very wet and slippy, road shoes not up to the job anymore now the trails are no longer solid

Wednesday, 1km swim then off to the local running shop. Pair of Saucony peregrine 10's purchase  Love new running shoe days!

Thursday, 1km swim followed by stretch class

Friday, 1km swim

Saturday, 7km trail run, loving the new shoes!

Sunday, 8.5km trail run, shoes still making me smile 

 AlanLittle 13 Oct 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

Bloody hell! You have a hundred metre wide board?

 Tom Green 13 Oct 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

The circuits are a total nightmare!

 biscuit 17 Oct 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt.

Late post.

Last week was a planned rest week. It was hard. 

I made sure i got my nutrition OK. I'm still eating a lot and there seems to be a slight upward trend in fatness but nothing to worry about yet.

I did all my conditioning work - there wasn't a lot.

We took our mats for a long walk round  Warton Upper Crag trying to find a specific buttress, but failed. Played on the driest problem we could find. This only had 2 wet holds Hoodoo People (f6C). Realised after i had the beta totally wrong - i thought it felt very hard. One to go back for, it's a great problem.

Went for a walk around  Fairy Steps in the showers and looked at some future projects. 

Had a routes session at Kendal wall on Sunday and climbed lots of volume at 6b/6b+. 

 mattrm 18 Oct 2020
In reply to AJM:

In a word, nowt.

Will have to put some effort in next week.

 Si dH 18 Oct 2020
In reply to biscuit:

Is your nutrition a planned thing you've had advice from lattice on along with your plan, or something completely separate?

 biscuit 18 Oct 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Separate. I saw lockdown as a chance to do some reading and podcasting and build new habits.

I tracked what I was eating, made sure I was getting my protein and played around with calories to see what happened, along with quality sleep etc. 

I now have a rough idea of what I should eat according to what I’m doing or want to happen and other than treats what I eat is all fresh and not processed.

Getting the basics right. Next thing is my carbs. ATM I’m not changing them depending on what I’m doing. But I’m also going OK as I am and it’s another level of faff. 

I’ve done Lattice to see what it’s like, as lots of my patients have done it and I’m terrible at holding myself to account. It’ll make me more regular with my conditioning and structured. After 3 months I should have some new habits and be climbing better. 


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