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UKC Fit Club Week 713

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 AlanLittle 15 Nov 2020

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html     also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Psyche vid - Adam on the first ascent of Eagle-4. Wonder if Julia resorted to the same cray-zee foot sequence? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo&feature=emb_title

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_712-727577?new=9330398

AJM - solid diy effort. Sounds like a rest week or two might be in order before hitting the winter training?

Ally Smith - ah, the skin/humidity game. Sounds like it'll go when you get the right conditions.

biscuit - sounds pretty diligent to me even if not 100% per plan. Fingerbaord aerocap seems like the ultimate boredom threshold challenge.

Liam P - regarding your HVS goal, there are many, many HVS's where the 5a climbing is easier and better protected than the crux of Tensor II, although most likely more sustained (and I note from the logbook feedback that AJM might disagree about the difficulty of Tensor II)

mattrm - getting out & active is what it's all about

planetmarshall - some good grit mileage there

Ross Barker - easing back in carefully seems wise.

Si dH - sounds like some solid getting strong there

Somerset swede basher - I think if I only had one chance to get to a wall in ages I'd play on fun-looking boulders rather than diligently training. Good effort.

Steve Jones - rest days are for the weak? Impressed.

the sheep - getting the mileage (kilometreage?) in. Well done.

Tom Green - "determinedly avoided anything approaching strength and conditioning work!" Me too. 90% of my kettlebell usage is hanging them off my waist on the fingerboard.

Tyler - glad you're keeping in touch even if you didn't have much time to train. Z1 with limited time does seem tricky. In lockdown 1.0 I was doing low intensity box step-ups while watching youtube, but that was more to avoid going out than to save time - if you have time for telly you have time to train.

AlanLittle - given both lockdown and post-trip fatigue, just enjoy the unexpected good weather and access to local crags as the unexpected bonus that it is.

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 AJM 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

> regarding your HVS goal, there are many, many HVS's where the 5a climbing is easier and better protected than the crux of Tensor II, although most likely more sustained (and I note from the logbook feedback that AJM might disagree about the difficulty of Tensor II)

I had to go and look to remember what I'd said!

I think the first time I did Tensor II I was probably a lot more of a slab climber than I am now, relatively speaking. I had done a fair chunk of climbing on the Culm, which I think was probably my main point of comparison. But at the same time I'd have probably been boxed out of my tree on a steep E1, for example - I only really discovered base fitness mileage a few years later when I got an elbow injury. I might have got up a Swanage E1 at the time, but equally probably not.

So some of it is probably finding an oasis of "comfort zone" at a crag where mainly I'd have expected not to do well. I don't know.

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 Si dH 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Psyche vid - Adam on the first ascent of Eagle-4. Wonder if Julia resorted to the same cray-zee foot sequence? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo&feature=emb_title

I saw that earlier in the week. Pretty mental sequence wasn't it?

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 Si dH 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Alan. Feeling quite good at the moment. 

M: Really great session on the board in the evening. There are a total of eight 7As that I have set on it now and I just decided to see how many of them I could do in a session. To my amazement I retro-flashed the first five and then went on to do the rest too! Most of these took me two sessions each when I first set them. 

T: rest

W: Evening set of max hangs with bodyweight + 25 kg, then a couple of sets of 5 pull-ups with +23 kg. Then a short board session. I set a couple of new 7As (without doing them.)

T: Evening board session. Mostly felt quite creaky and in need of a longer rest. Managed to do one of the 7As from Tuesday and set two new 6Cs. Finished off with a couple of sets of upper body TRX exercises.

F: rest. Also managed to wake up with a really stiff /painful neck, couldn't twist my head at all. Probably caused by either training or putting up a heavy light fitting on Thursday?

S: rest. Neck not right but on the mend. 

S: board session in the morning. I did a new 6C and then ticked the other 7A I had set on Tuesday. Then set a couple of new hard things that will become projects. Afterwards did a couple of sets of bodyweight repeaters on the lattice edge and a bit of TRX. Neck continuing to improve but still not 100%.

Super happy with Monday's session although I think I overdid it a bit really.

One of my fingers felt a bit tweaky today, need to be careful with it. If only the weather would sort itself out, I could go and rehab it on some nice grit slopers

Si

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 biscuit 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan. We managed to get out again for a boulder this week but the walls still feel like they're closing in a bit. 

Mon - went for a jog,1 arm finger test, 1 arm shoulder shrugs, shoulder press, press ups, hip flexibility

Tue - Forearm conditioning, hip flexibility, legs

Wed - Rest

Thurs - Boulder. Went back to Humphrey Head but a different section. Flashed up to V4, got a V5 3rd go, got a v6 3rd go (coulda shoulda flashed it) tried a V9 that is supposed to be about V7/8. It's perma dry which is why it appeals at the moment. I was getting confused about beta. Sorted now so back next week to try again.

Fri - rest

Sat - Repeaters 7:3 at 70% for An Cap. Floor core, compression, 1 arm shrugs, legs, run. 

Sun - continuity (5 min on 3 min off x3) on BM with feet on chair. Less boring than 1 on 1 off  x 10. Shoulder stability. bar core, forearm conditioning.

A solid week all thing considered. I feel like I replaced the Lattice sessions with what i could, did my conditioning and got outside.

Next week is a re-test week - basically a rest week. My An Cap yesterday was a disaster. I was supposed to add 7kg but had to ditch all the weight to complete it. That's not great 5 weeks before a routes trip. So i'm tempted to go a bit off piste and hit the power endurance work. But i've stuck with the plan so far so maybe i should continue to do so. I'll have a think.

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 biscuit 15 Nov 2020
In reply to Si dH:

A really common time to get injured is when you're feeling really good, but have a little niggle, especially fingers.

It sounds like you're going to be careful though.

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 Si dH 15 Nov 2020
In reply to biscuit:

I hope so.

I admit to not being careful enough sometimes! I should probably commit to a few days just doing TRX or something.

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 Si dH 15 Nov 2020
In reply to biscuit:

Is there any good bouldering at Humphrey? I didn't know it had any until I saw your post last week.

If it helps, I find the lattice edge ancap routines desperate too.

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In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan,

I’d agree with AJM. I felt the P2 5a slab was easier than the P1 4c roof. Suppose it depends what your strengths are. Which means I need to work on my endurance! Along with some mental tactics - good gear in, back to a rest to shake out, commit to steep moves until the next rest. Rinse & repeat.

STG: 2 week endurance phase of Eric Hörst T4C Programme. 20x BW Pull-ups within 2 weeks.

MTG: Lead 10x VS by end of 10week cycle. 1/10 done and running out of time!

LTG: Solid on HVS/E1. DoWH HVS 4c being a goal for next Spring.

Struggled this week: gym closed, busy in work, rubbish weather etc...

M: Fingerboard session. Started on the 18mm edge and struggled. 3 sets of 5x7s/60s.

T: Read about a ‘Parkour Gym’ in a local park so cycled over and it wasn’t bad! Loads of pull-up bars and dip stations.

Isometric holds: 5x15s Pull-up two handed lockoff (went for a one-hand but had no chance), inverted row, wall handstand. Finished with 5x15 Knee Raises.

W: Rest

T: Rest

F: Rest

S: Fingerboard session. 18mm edge feeling slightly more comfortable. 4 sets of 5x7s/60s.

S: Isometric holds: 5x20s Pull-up two hand lockoff, inverted row, wall handstand. 5x15 Leg Raises.

Need to figure out how to train endurance without a gym - planning on lots of pull-ups and fingerboard repeaters. Looks like there may be a weather window on Saturday so will try to get out and tick more VS routes.

Christmas Pudding is on her second feed. Accidentally drank all the Brandy so mixing it up with some Port!

Have a good week😀

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 Si dH 15 Nov 2020
In reply to Liam P:

> Need to figure out how to train endurance without a gym - planning on lots of pull-ups and fingerboard repeaters.

The Crimpd app gives variations on repeater style exercises with weight taken off for the purposes of endurance training (arrival, aeropow, ancap.) You can also do 'foot on campus' moving your hands between rungs in a fingerboard, with your feet on a chair out in front of you. I have found this really effective in the past.

Edit to add, don't try to do endurance pull-ups, you will just f*ck your elbows.

Post edited at 19:30
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In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan. If I want to do indoor problems I generally go to The Depot as I like the setting there but I was short on time so headed to The Works as its closer. Unfortunately there is way less space there, the boards were empty and there was no way I was going to be able to keep my distance on problems so was happy to hit the board. 

This week I have moved into winter training mode! Small Swede has had to self isolate all week as a contact to a case at school so I've been off work at the start of the week. Doing school work with an enthusiastic 4yr old has been a welcome change of pace to 30 moody teenagers.

I had a long think and a reread of the Barrows document always posted at the start of fit club. Now I'm starting to get out route climbing a bit I think I need to adapt this winters training. I basically don't do any aerocap and (maybe?) as a result could have better recovery at descent rests and definitely could do with better recovery between sessions.

Mon. 6 sets of BW repeaters, 5x5 BW on the min pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Tues. 10mins on 10mins off aerocap in the attic. It was hard to get the intensity right. One side of the wall is 66 degrees and I can't do 10mins on that and I certainly wouldn't have just a 'light pump' if I did. The kids side is verticle for the bottom meter then 66 degrees for 2meters and I also have a vert section between the two. In the end I found that laps of traversing the kids wall there and back then feet on the vert wall and hands on the steepness either side worked about right. Glad I downloaded a podcast to take with me!

Wed. 6 x 10sec max hangs on the 20mm edge BW+20kg. I managed all hangs but only just so think I got the weight about right. I was doing this with +24kgs in lock down 1 so might up it to +21kg next week. 5x5 pull ups BW+8kgs. This sounds a bit pathetic when I write it down. Hopefully some gains (or should that be gainz!?) to be made here? I've never managed more than +10kgs. 3x10 press ups to finish. 8km run @ 4.43/km in the eve.

Thurs and Fri rest, catching up on work stuff. 

Sat. Headed out to the Rubicon. This was optimistic but the forecast did say 'light rain' not 'Peak wide mega clag of doom' which is what we got. Did Mr. Puniverse (7a+) quickly and started to take a look at The Fall when the temp rose and the crag went from grey to black and almost dripping within about 2 minutes. Unfortunately managed to pull something in my back on the final tie in.

Sun. Back hurts but less than yesterday. Sacked off any other plans and did some happy elbow exercises (dumbell lowers, wrist curls etc). I feel ok hanging but can't twist so should be good to hang board next week while it heals. 

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 AlanLittle 15 Nov 2020
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

>  there was no way I was going to be able to keep my distance on problems

That's a good point. The only place I really felt uncomfortable in the time Between The Lockdowns was a at a bouldering wall where the crowds on the mats weren't bothering with even the slightest show of distancing.

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In reply to Si dH:

Cheers, will give it a look!

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 Tyler 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan. I'm just here to register my attendance because I don't have anything to report. Despite this being the last week of an 18 month project things didn't ramp down but stayed pretty intense to the last minute, I should have known better I've done enough of these now.

My, already quite large, DIY project has also ballooned, I should have known better I've done enough of these now.

This week I'm going to work on improving my work life balance. 

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 Ross Barker 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Been a good week this week, despite no outdoor climbing I've still managed to squeeze in what I would consider quality training.

This week:

M - Rest

T - 6x10s max hangs +7kg, box split stretches in between sets. Threw in a few sets of 10 push ups too. Can't remember much about this session as I procrastinated on writing my thoughts, but I seem to remember thinking it was quite hard so will stay at +7kg next session. Box split progress is surprisingly good as well, I don't have any goals with it but I'm noticeably lower than I was pre-covid!

W - Rest

T - Power session at the bars, 5x5 power pulls. Tested my one arm lock-off and had about 5 seconds each side, about 3 seconds fewer than pre-covid. Not concerned though, it'll come back soon enough. Intended to fingerboard as well but fingers were still feeling Tuesday's session so opted to rest them.

F - Rest

S - Rest

S - Board session. Did a handful of neat problems, nothing too structured, just pulling hard. Felt pretty strong but I don't really have any basis for the judgment!

Next week:

M - Rest

T - Power session (maybe fingerboard if digits are feeling particularly well rested)

W - Rest

T - Fingerboard

F - Rest

S, S - As usual, pray for good weather and probably not get any

Goals:

Tierdrop

Suavito

Old King Cascade

Unnamed Local Project

Also want to get a pulley system set up so I can get into 1-armed hangs with a weight reduction, need to acquire some cord and a pulley

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 AlanLittle 15 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

STG: Get through Lockdown 2.0 with sanity intact. Ideally also with some fingerboard gainz. Zellerwand 7a project, weather permitting
MTG: Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: went to bed early, terrible dreams all night, woke exhausted. Hmm.
    Significant time spent entering Zellerwand routes into the database, so that I can then tick them in the upcoming (hopefully) sunny autumn weekends.
T: Beastmaker max hangs
W: 
T: Another night of poor sleep due to work (and lockdown) stress.
    Nevertheless, max hangs & shoulder presses
F: One hour bike ride.
    I seem to have tweaked my wrist doing heavy kettlebell overhead presses yesterday. I hope this won't affect pulling down on the project tomorrow too much.
    
S: another golden autumn weekend, another visit to the Zellerwand. Dookie (7a) has got harder since last week - or I have got weaker & fatter - so I'm now in proper project mode rather than hoping for a quick tick on the second or third attempt. And weather forecast not looking so great for next weekend. So it goes. Did half a dozen really nice warm up & cool down routes though, so all in all a good day out.

S: One hour bike ride - could be the last chance for some fresh air and sunlight before Lockdown Winter.
    30 minutes stretching/mobility

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 biscuit 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Recent quality study looking at football (so not climbing obviously) but those who reported a non time loss injury (a niggle) were 3 - 6 times more likely to experience a time loss injury in the next week. 

More prone to injury when going well - a combo of having peaked in training (load on your body) and reaping the rewards by going out and trying hard (load on your body). 

Climbing is cruel.....

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 biscuit 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Si dH:

> Is there any good bouldering at Humphrey? I didn't know it had any until I saw your post last week.

There are two areas at HH. Not much above 7A but what there is at those grades is good. Faces West and with the wind in a good direction is a good winter venue. But it does seep - we thought it wouldn't, hence the mini cave adventures.

It's in the Lakes bouldering guide and some info here 

Humphrey Head

> If it helps, I find the lattice edge ancap routines desperate too.

It's always good to find a weakness......so i tell myself.

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 Tom Green 16 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Hi all. Thanks for statting, Alan.

A better week this week -one core and one strength sesh -not quite the number prescribed, but better than my previous tally of none!

Week 46:

M: Prehab. Shoulders and elbows.

T: Board sesh. Limit bouldering and then tried to do 1min-on/1min-off on the hand crack. This turned out to be wildly optimist -by rep 5 I lost the ability to down climb and by rep 7 I lost the ability to up-climb! Failed on reps 8-10. Core session (fairly light to break me back in gently).   

W: Max hangs. Prehab.

T: Trail run. 65min Z1. 11.8km, flat.

F: Board sesh. AnCap (boulder triples) and Circuits (min-on/min-off).

S: Hill run. 50min Z1. 7.3km, 254m vert, pretty awful underfoot conditions.

S: Max hangs. Strength sesh (all upper body).

Week 47:

2 Runs

2 Core sessions 

2 Climbing sessions

2 Prehab sessions

2 Strength sessions

STGs (End Nov):

BW <72kg -need to start paying more attention to this.

Max Hangs +4kg

Pull-up 2RM 90kg total

Curfew (6b+) The Day of the Triffids (6b)

Black Wall (E1 5b)

Run Edale Skyline

MTGs (End Jan):

Max Hangs +8kg

Pull-up 2RM 100kg total

Grid Iron (6c) The Deep (6c+)

Black Wall Direct (E2 5c)

Run Cheshire Gritstone Trail

LTGs:

7a, 6C.

33 E-points in 2021 (to beat current best year).

Run Welsh 3000s

Revisit Cairngorm Classic Rock in a day

Long alpine rock routes off my to-do-list?

Post edited at 09:12
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 Tom Green 16 Nov 2020
In reply to biscuit:

> Recent quality study looking at football (so not climbing obviously) but those who reported a non time loss injury (a niggle) were 3 - 6 times more likely to experience a time loss injury in the next week. 

Interesting!

> More prone to injury when going well - a combo of having peaked in training (load on your body) and reaping the rewards by going out and trying hard (load on your body). 

Depressing!

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 the sheep 16 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan,

A busy week saw me get out for 3 run, all off road around the 12 km mark.

Hopefully a better report next week!

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 Ally Smith 16 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Ally Smith - ah, the skin/humidity game. Sounds like it'll go when you get the right conditions.

I was still struggling with skin this week - even on Friday after training solely on a wooden fingerboard all week I was limited by skin.  Sunday worked out better though...

Week 46:

M – Strongest fingerboard session for months? Crimpd 1-arm; 10s x6 @BW-12.5kg. Crimpd small-edges; 7s x6 @BW+6kg (6mm) then Crimpd max-hangs (10s x6) on 35 degree slopers @BW+30kg.

T – Tendon density: F3SC (BW-12.5kg; mild/moderate) and f3 drag (BW+4kg; hard). Might go a little harder on F3SC next time? Mixed in some squats and DL 10reps @45kg. 40/20 x6 planks and COMPEX on groin strain. 

W – Hamstring and groin DOMS – who’d have guessed after not doing any leg weights for 6mths!?! Evening stretching in front of the goggle box.

T – VERY gentle 15km ride with her good self at lunchtime.  Crimpd 1-arm; 10s x6 @BW-11kg.  Lattice block “max”; 18.5kg L (hard) / 19.5kg R (ok). More stretches.

F – Board. Worked a couple of 7C+ and did one in overlapping halves.

S – Day of DIY. Landry dryer and loft boarding installed.

S – Another day of house jobs. Last of the decorating then epic leaf clearance. 200(?) kg of leaves shifted (2x bulk rubble bags; each barely liftable). After that didn’t expect much from an evening board session. I intended to lap the finishing section of the 7C+ project so I would be less likely to drop it, but pulled on and did it with such ease I decided to try from the start. 1st go; dry fired off the crux 3rd move. 2nd go; fluffed 2nd move. 3rd go; took it all the way to the top.

“Piccolo Righe” 7C+ https://www.instagram.com/p/CHpkHgnD9JX/ 

To me, this feels like a totally insane achievement as the power and movement patterns to climb on a 40degree board felt so alien when I first tried a Moonboard.

I do wonder if I have 8A in my arms in this style…?

(As an aside, I've drunk too much and slept badly this week and need to sort that out before sproggle arrives)

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 Si dH 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Ally Smith:

> (As an aside, I've drunk too much and slept badly this week and need to sort that out before sproggle arrives)

Trying to build up sleep reserves? Not sure if that works!

Effort on the 7C+.

Post edited at 11:34
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 AJM 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Even if it did, I think the amount of reserve required would be prohibitive!!!

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 AlanLittle 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Ally Smith:

You still have the 2016 moonboard setup? Jealous. I used to be able to do at least some things on that, have never been able to come to terms with 2017.

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 Ally Smith 16 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Yep - my home board is the Mooboard 2016 set-up. My most dismal Moonboard session ever was on a highly polished 2017 set-up in London that was actually built at 45 degrees instead of the regulation 40 degrees. I think I managed a pair of 6C's that time!

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 AJM 16 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan. I’ve shifter my reference frame to maintenance until the end of the month, I don’t think I’ll rest but if the goal is to tick over then it’s more achievable. Was determined to beat my slightly lacklustre performance last week. Might have managed it. 

Monday - managed to sneak a quick 5-3-5-3-5 aerobic session into a gap between meetings. The bivvy ledge was christened with some quality shakeout opportunities. 

Tuesday - Thursday - nothing. Busy busy!

Friday - snuck another aero session in in the evening

Saturday - fingerboard. Started on pockets but miniAJM decided he wanted to go downstairs so moved to the 8mm edges above the kitchen door. Not greatest conditions, felt a bit slippy, but gave them a good go. Finished with a few sets of pull-ups on the 15mm edges to work on control through the combined movement.

Sunday - microAJM is going through a screaming phase - if she doesn’t get what she wants she’ll walk up next to you and scream at the top of her voice. It is, of course, impossible to persuade her not to do this, the options are either to give in or to be screamed at! We’re also trying to persuade her to break some of her more irritating sleep habits, which is inevitably more tiring. MiniAJM was in a funny mood. As a result, a day which felt like a bit of a battle. Didn’t get anything done. Characterising this as rest due to having a half day holiday Monday to try to get some more serious training into.

Mini making goals:

- more holds for miniAJMs wall [tick - made 10 holds]

- 2 monos and 2 2-finger pockets for the FoC board [not yet]

- resting jug for the FoC board [tick]

- set of parallelettes [need some more timber, due to arrive this week]

- poorer feet for foot on campus board [tick]

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In reply to Si dH:

Just reading about ‘foot on campusing’ on the site below:

https://strengthclimbing.com/eric-horst-hangboard-moving-hangs-climbing-training-endurance-protocol/

He describes two methods:

1) Anaerobic Endurance. 2 sets of 5mins above Critical Force.

2) Aerobic Endurance. 3 sets of 10mins below Critical Force.

Which is the best to start off with? He mentions Aero Endurance has some carry over to Anero Endurance so should get more bang for my buck using that set/rep pattern?

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 AJM 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Liam P:

I’m not 100% sure on his terminology (I skim read some of the page but no more) but I think that’s basically power endurance (5 minutes until you’re coming off boxed senseless) or base endurance (if you can do 10m it’s got to be baseline).

For trad fitness I would tend to put more weight on the latter than the former but I’m sure both are useful.

I have to confess, apart from the fact it’s a preset exercise in Crimpd so just click and go, I do like the 5-3-5-3-5 structure - aiming in the 5 minutes to get lightly/moderately but certainly not completely pumped, rest 3 and so on. Done in about 20m so a lot faster than the 3x10 minute stints and I’m not sure it’s any less effective. If I then wanted to work on getting more completely boxed I would probably go for something like 2-on-2-off or maybe cutting the rest so 2-1-2-1 or something.

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In reply to AJM:

Is that the ‘Continuity 5x3’ exercise? I’ve just had a go and it felt hard - even had to move the stool right underneath my weight.

I’d better stick to training anaerobic endurance as I think I’d struggle to hang 10minute aerobic sets.

Quite happy I’ve found a significant weakness to train though!

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 AJM 16 Nov 2020
In reply to Liam P:

I'm doing it on a foot on campus board so the logistics are undoubtedly different (my bottom holds are far lower the ground than yours, I suspect) but yes, I do it with my feet on the floor slightly behind the board rather than up on a chair or anything. I'm also doing it at a higher intensity than the app suggests - I'm definitely getting a bit of a pump on along the way.

(At a guess, when I'm standing straight up I suspect my body is not far from in line with the board so effectively 15 degrees overhanging or something - difficult to translate bit hopefully that gives you some sort of idea?)

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In reply to AlanLittle:

"Steve Jones - rest days are for the weak? Impressed."

I can get a little carried away, but I've also a lot of free time so might as well train...

M - International Chest Day - 5x3 bench press at 55kg (86.5% 1RM), incline press @37.5kg, 10x3 pull ups - very happy with those, plus core stuff. Easy 5km later in the day

T - Squat 5x5 @62.5kg (71.5% of 1RM), more pull ups and core. Then 7km around lower slops of Latrigg. Then Crimpd repeaters at 43% of max

W - 14km (400m) round (not over) Catbells. Shoulder stability/strength stuff in the evening

T - More squats - 5x3 @75kg (c.86%1RM), and stuff. Then round Latrigg (8.5km (250m). Then Crimpd repeaters at 43% of max

F - Bench 5x5 @50kg (79% 1RM) Incline press 5x5 @38.5kg, pull ups 10x3. Flat 8km in the dark

S - 15.5km (250m) round the lake.

S - Weather to awful for a run, and I figured I earned a day off. Did some Deadlifts and other stuff. Compleatly forgot to do my max hangs. I'm just lazy...

V happy finally stringing together pull ups. I think it was part psychological that was making me touch the floor after every rep and use that slight unweighting to initiate the lift. But I got over that.

Got myself some weightlifting wrist straps so hopefully that'll stop the deadlifts wrecking my forearms before hangboarding.

Diet is better. Not so much junk food anyway. Still probably over-eating even 'for gains'.


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 AlanLittle 17 Nov 2020
In reply to AJM:

> MicroAJM ... walk up next to you 

I did a double take there and had to do a mental recalculation of months since I met up with you and heavily pregnant MrsAJM last summer 

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 AJM 17 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Haha! She started early either way (tentative steps in Northumberland 2 months back) but it was her birthday last week.....

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 AlanLittle 17 Nov 2020
In reply to AJM:

Mine took his first steps at 10½ months, at which point life got more strenuous. 

Now I have an 18 year old single malt hidden in my wardrobe waiting for that not too distant upcoming event, whilst still remembering those first steps like it was yesterday.

Post edited at 08:18
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 mattrm 17 Nov 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

STG - Rescue Ciri and fight the Wild Hunt!

MTG - Y Fal 2h door to door

LTG - Y Fal 1h 30m door to door

Weight - 15st 2lbs

M - W - Rest

T - 11.5 mile walk, up Y Fal (450m ish ascent)

F - S - Rest

All DQS scores horribly negative.

Got a decent walk in on Thursday.  Had meant to do a few sets of pull-ups.  Went on quite a few family bimbles around the place as we were on holiday this week.  Still dithering about starting the rescue Ciri quest.  But least I gained a level.

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 biscuit 19 Nov 2020
In reply to Tom Green:

Depressing ish i'd say. Make hay while the sun shines but resist the temptation to go over the top. You've reached a new performance level, not become unbreakable. 

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 biscuit 19 Nov 2020
In reply to Liam P:

I've just done the continuity CRIMPd workout his week due to walls being closed.

I was using a BM1000 going round all the holds. I had my feet on the floor. What weight you use or where your feet are isn't important, it's how it feels. I liked it as a replacement. Better than the 10 mins on i did the week before which was death by boredom.

Try not to get too caught up in perfection. Getting things done imperfectly is better than not getting things done. In this data driven world it can be easy to go down that rabbit hole.

If you want to get better at dealing with pump get yourself pumped during the continuity. Let it build up and recover during the rest. 

If you want to get better at trad recovery build up little pumps during the 5 mins and then go to an easy hold to recover.

Simples! ish...

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