UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 726

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 AlanLittle 14 Feb 2021

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html     also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

And for those looking for more theoretical background, there's a useful subject index of published research studies on the Beta Angel project. Not sure how actively maintained if is though. https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory/

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_725-731007

This week's Psyche Vid? Coquibus Rumont is suddenly an even more significant bouldering sector than Forest Rock, but there doesn't seem to be any footage of the world's second 9A in the wild yet. And Plan B has already been a ukc front page feature, but just in case anybody missed it: I found the Adam Ondra-Tommy Caldwell chat delightful. Two of the all time great enthusing about their shared love. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYCVSppGz1c&

Psyche vid nominations always welcome - the more esoteric the venue the better.

STG: weekly Fit Club stats without typos. I think I actually pulled this off last week - unless anybody noticed otherwise?

AJM - lockdown really is becoming a struggle isn't it? I hope this week was somewhat better.

alexm198 - so how did it work out with the core work on running days? And were you able to take advantage of our sudden mini ice age?

Ally Smith - so, aerocap programme started? Or still facing the prospect of being the archetypal strong boulderer with no endurance?

BarneyLoosemore - so the deload week was still lots of activity, but mostly short/lighter sessions? I used to do ARC sessions on the outdoor section of my local climbing wall in winter, so I sympathise with your aerocap misery.

biscuit - I found your thoughts last week on what Fit Club is and respecting where people are in life interesting and moving. Thank you.

Liam P - if you had previously mentioned the impending change in your lifestyle then I missed it. Congratulations. Presumably you'll be sticking to the more solid bits of Gogarth and Swanage then?

Ross Barker - sounds like a solid training week. Good call to curtail the max hangs if they were feeling tweaky. 

Si dH - we're always told getting sore isn't the goal of a good training session, but it's so hard to avoid a feeling of satisfaction at achieving the three-day-doms

Somerset swede basher - your consistency at seizing some kind of chance to climb outdoors (nearly?) every week is impressive. Otoh you're also the first case I've actually heard of, of a lockdown injury brought about by indoor buildering on domestic fittings & furnishings.

the sheep - getting plenty of lighter low impact sessions sounds like a good way to deal with knee niggles. Well done Mrs Sheep!

Tom Green - I hope the covid convalescence is going reasonably smoothly?

Tyler - how did the calf hold up?

AlanLittle - encouraging test result, especially the max hang. Shift a couple kilos from the waist to the harness, get on a nice sticky public beastmaker at a wall (hopefully, one day) and the sky's the limit!

Fit Club fourteenth birthday coming up in two weeks (if my division of 728 by 52 is correct). What will you do fourteen of in February?

 AJM 14 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> AJM - lockdown really is becoming a struggle isn't it? I hope this week was somewhat better.

Well, it was mainly a week of grot this week. Tried hard Friday to Sunday so rescued something from it. With a fairly impressive 10.5 hr turnaround I now know that whatever’s making me splutter it is not the ‘rona though, which is something of a relief given the implication on lack of nursery over the next ten days if it had been. Currently sitting enjoying a beer and Stone Locals in celebration of this fact! Feeling more mentally positive despite having done less...

Monday - Thursday - nothing. Feeling a bit grotty - a sore throat and a bit of a headache on Monday afternoon/eve, which led to a poor nights sleep and feeling pretty wiped Tuesday, and on Wednesday/Thursday I decided to play it safe to try to lock in the recovery before restarting training. In hindsight, I’m unclear whether this was successful!

Friday - 5x5 pull-ups. After much frustration trying to get a consistent scale reading - I could move the scales around my kitchen floor and see 2kg weight differences, and unlike usual I couldn’t get to a sensible majority view - this was either a good session at an ok weight or a bit of a meh session at a good weight (in both cases weight improvement is relative to where it was rather than relative say to last summer)! Take the positives from either. I also made some smaller paralettes, partly for increased portability and partly for something to do.

Saturday - tickly throat overnight leading to a bunch of spluttering that went away once I sat up; this plus multiple child wake ups meant it doesn’t rank highly in my best sleeps! MiniAJM and I put some varnish on the paralettes to try to hide my slightly messy woodworking; given his varnishing wasn’t the neatest I’m unsure this actually worked but at least it passed the time! Several sets of dips and then some Lsit to tuck planche attempts and other general playing with the smaller paralettes.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLPfJxqjiBC/?igshid=1xppe8ai66lu3

Sunday - a better night but similar so I decided to take myself off for a Covid test just in case. Touch wood, feeling a bit grotty but no worse; the sort of thing I’d expect most winters. Got stuck into some training in the afternoon - some L sits, some pseudo planche pushups, some face pulls, and playing round at trying TRX assisted pistol squats. My squatting game is not strong - another area of weakness identified!

 Si dH 14 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Si dH - we're always told getting sore isn't the goal of a good training session, but it's so hard to avoid a feeling of satisfaction at achieving the three-day-doms

Thanks Alan. You are right, although I am also pleased it didn't feel so hard this week!

M: as per the other Sunday, I did six sets of 6 * 7/3 repeaters on the incut crimps I'm using to rehab my finger (shoulders/scaps engaged throughout hanging time), which again felt quite hard by the end of each set (getting pumped), apart from the first two sets. Maybe I should add a bit of weight and keep it to 5 hangs per set as I want this to work ancap rather than aerobic at the moment. Afterwards I did some TRX - 3 sets each of low rows, reverse flies, IYWs, chest flies, hamstring curls. 

T: rest

W: did a short board session but didn't feel strong, I was struggling in the cold with fingers going numb. Did 3*5 pull-ups with +23kg afterwards.

T: hip mobility routine followed by crimpd floor core routine. This felt slightly easier than last week, possibly because I rested a bit more between sets as I wasn't in a rush.

F: 6 sets of 30 second scap pull-up exercises on the incut edge, with bodyweight +12.5kg

S: rest

S: board session this morning. I slept really badly and didn't feel good to start with, but worked my way in to it well in the end. Decided to just try a couple of projects rather than doing a Board 10 session. Managed to do a new 7A+ that I was pretty pleased with. Did some press-ups in the TRX and some prone Ts afterwards.

Pleased with a good session today. Rest week coming up now. I might just do one light fingerboard session and one hip mobility/core session mid week. I feel like I need it, so am hoping I'll come back stronger the week after!

I think I will drop back to one board session a week and switch from an 8-day rolling plan to a 7-day. This is obviously easier to plan around a week and I think a higher ratio of hangs and scap pull-ups to board climbing would be better for my finger at the moment - it is on the road to recovery but I have felt some very mild pain when warming up a couple of times this week, so it still needs care.

> Fit Club fourteenth birthday coming up in two weeks (if my division of 728 by 52 is correct). What will you do fourteen of in February?

Hmm. Either sets of repeaters or sets of 10 L-sits? Or for something different - walks out of the house of over a mile? I probably manage that every other day.

Si

 AJM 14 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Fit Club fourteenth birthday coming up in two weeks (if my division of 728 by 52 is correct). What will you do fourteen of in February?

25 March 07 was the inaugural post, according to search...

Week 25, I joined the scene and barely looked back.....

In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan. No, I hadn’t previously mentioned it so thanks for the congratulations. Hopefully it won’t affect my risk tolerance too much but who knows!

Steady progress this week, although all the core-training talk gave me an excuse to give it a miss. Small gains in all other exercises and I got up to my goal weight (70lb) on the weighted walks - managed a decent clip of 5:12km in an hour.

Weight loss has slowed. Think I need to cut back on the drinking which is easier said than done during a lockdown.

Monday: 3x 2 Offset Pull-ups 40mmJug/2fingers on 10mm edge. 3x 2.5, 1.5, 1.5 one-arm pushups

Tuesday: Moving Hangs 3’on/5’off/2:20on/5’off/2’on Feet on stool, 30mm+ jugs. 3x 3.5, 1.5, 0.5 handstand push (head 4”off floor). Hero Stretch 3x 5mins. 3x 10s Back Bridge

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: 3x 3 Offset Pull-ups 40mm Jug/ 2fingers on 10mm edge. 3x 3.5, 2.5, 1.5 one-arm pushups

Friday: Moving Hangs 3’on/5’off/2:30’on/5’off/2:10’on Feet on Stool, 30mm+ jugs. 3x 3, 2.5, 0.5 handstand push-up (head 4” off floor)

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: 5.14km in 1 hour (70lbs)

Weight: 182.6lbs (- 1.2lbs)

I’m also scheduled a rest week after a 10 week cycle but don’t feel I’ve earned it. Hit an impasse with handstand push-ups so may see if a rest helps. I’ve also realised 2 weeks isn’t long enough for me to train endurance (it works out at only 4 sessions). I want to reach my lockdown goal of BW+25% on the 15mm edge but after that I’ll start a longer endurance period.

Fingers crossed lockdown is over by 25 March and we can say fourteen routes/pitches/problems in a day!?

Have a good week.

 alexm198 14 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Hi Alan, no dice on the core workout front, managed one but it was on Friday which was a non-running day. One better than none but it felt much tougher than it should have, which I think has strengthened my resolve to do more of them in future.

Attempted to capitalise on the insane cold by going to the Jochberg but remarkably there wasn't enough ice. It was like climbing slush and had loads of running water behind it, which I find utterly perplexing since it had been -15 overnight for two nights before that. Just when you think you have a good sense of winter conditions, you get an experience like that that really stumps you.

> Fit Club fourteenth birthday coming up in two weeks (if my division of 728 by 52 is correct). What will you do fourteen of in February?

Hmm, tricky one. Might aim for 14 pitches of actual climbing?! Anything running related (runs, km, mi, etc.) seems too easy. So far I have... 2. But the route on the Aggenstein I have my eye on is 10 pitches, so that would help. 

Week 11:

This week felt like a bit of a grind, to be honest. Thursday was the closest I've come so far to sacking off a run but I'm glad I got a grip and got out the door. The run turned out to be fine. One core session better than none, but must work harder. Only two shin prehabs---don't get lazy!

M Rest.

T 11.23km Z1.

W 8.22km Z1. Shin prehab.

11.63km with 18 mins speedwork. Absolutely baltic. Speedwork in a winterweight baselayer and a synthetic gilet without overheating! 6x long repeats up a nearby hill. 

F Core workout. 

S Decided that -17 and 40km/h winds on the Aggenstein didn't sound very enjoyable so went to the Jochberg nordwand instead. Climbed two pitches up Via Classica (actually doing the correct route this time) but ice was too thin to be protectable and too wet and slushy to be safe. Still, good to stomp around in the snow and swing the tools a bit I suppose? Should have done a mixed route after all!

30.79km Z1. Bit of a grind. Knee pain returned, had to periodically stop and stretch. Never got terrible but must keep an eye on this. Discovered that Dextro energy gels are vile. Stick to good gels or, better, proper food. Gorgeous weather though. Bitterly cold and blindingly sunny. Shin prehab.  

Last week's goals:

  • 68km running [Tick-ish, if you think the Jochberg attempt is equivalent in effort to a 6.13km run. I think that's a reasonable comparison!]
  • 2 core routine (do them!) [1/2, could be worse?]
  • 3 shin prehab [2/3, do better!]
  • Isidor-Hacker-Gedenkweg on the Aggenstein? [-]

Goals:

STG (This Week)

  • Same as week 10

MTG (End of June 2021)

  • Finish the Zugspitz Ultratrail
  • Himmel und Hölle on the Zugspitze Nordwand
  • Optimism on the Schneefernerkopf Westwand
  • Eiger nordwand if borders are open and partners can travel

LTG (End of 2021)

  • Himalaya Expedition (or plan B
Post edited at 22:37
 Si dH 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Si dH:

> Hmm. Either sets of repeaters or sets of 10 L-sits? Or for something different - walks out of the house of over a mile? I probably manage that every other day.

> Si

Update - if we have until 25/03, I might be over optimistic and say I'll try 14 different actual boulder problems on actual rock. I reckon we might get a day out or two by then, and if not, well it's a good excuse!

 AlanLittle 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AJM and Si:

Can't argue with AJM's archival research. Here it is:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club__training_diary_week_1-234245

... although how we (will have) managed to pack 728 weeks into only 13 years and 11 months is puzzling.

Surprised to see that Shark wasn't already projecting The Oak at that point.

25th March is is then.

 AlanLittle 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

STG: Weight back below 85kg - eat when hungry not when bored. Start Couch To 5k.
MTG: Go climbing after lockdown? Get vaccinated before I get infected. 
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Legs really aching today from Saturday's deep snow battle. That two days later deep DOMS is the worst.
    Half an hour stretching & foam rolling plus a few long, light tendon density hangs
T: Repeaters, scap pull-ups, shoulder press, l-sits. All while watching the delightful Adam Ondra - Tommy Caldwell mutual interview.
W: 45 minutes bike ride - last chance before the onset of the Ice Age
T: Repeaters, weighted pull-ups, l-sits, one-leg squat progression
F: Half an hour of stretching & light tendon density hangs before bed

S: Hillwalking. Disappointingly not at all the minus 20 arctic survival epic that the weather forecast promised, and that I went prepared for. The lowest temperature I saw was minus 9 on the summit, which with bright sunshine and very little wind was positively pleasant. Excellent firm snow conditions for most of the day too, unlike last week. Did the Herzogstand-Heimgarten traverse, which is a local easy ridge scramble - sort of Striding Edge equivalent - that is far too popular to be worth bothering with in summer, but it was very pleasant today. Some lovely low sun slanting through the snowy forest on the way down too.

S: Another day, another hill. Saturday was quite tiring but I couldn't resist getting out again to make the most of the idyllic conditions. Set out to do the Hohe Kisten via the Kistenkar, a steep little corrie in the Bavarian Alps. I tried this as a spring snowshoe trip a few years back, and turned back because the snow in the corrie felt too iffy for a solo outing. Today I got as far as the base of the corrie ... and turned back because the snow felt too iffy for a solo outing. The approach hike up and down through the forest was lovely though.
    

Aaand ... lockdown extended for another three weeks. At least. Really appreciating the value of our less rigorous lockdown travel restrictions compared to the UK. The weekday monotony is getting to me, badly, but being able to get to the mountains for a day is keeping me sane.

 AJM 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

365.25 weeks in 7 years, so 730.5 weeks in 14 years, give or take a bit for exact bank holiday timing (I think it's 730 & 4/7ths)

 AlanLittle 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AJM:

You're right of course. There was me naively thinking a year is exactly 52 weeks.

 AlanLittle 15 Feb 2021
In reply to alexm198:

> Attempted to capitalise on the insane cold by going to the Jochberg but remarkably there wasn't enough ice.

Yeah, I rolled up at the Walchensee car park on Saturday morning & was surprised to see nary a hint of ice on the lake. I guess it just hasn't been cold for long enough. 

Another massive rollercoaster thaw coming this week too.

 Si dH 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

It's funny looking back through some of those old threads, good memories. Also funny to remember it was originally started as 'temporary' solution to the inability to record training on ukc.

I noticed many of the earlier starters were people who now post more on ukb. I think I started some time in 2009/10 but can't find the exact thread now. I have been nowhere near as consistent as AJM!

 AJM 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Si dH:

I think Tyler is the only person to be posting currently who posted in week 1?

I think I’ve been fairly consistent since I started - I’ve done several years of starting the posts which helps force it - I think biscuit is probably the other earliest starter?

 Tom Green 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Hi All. Thanks for another week of top quality stats, Alan. Much appreciated.

A week of feeling like I'm on the brink of being better, without actually fully shaking off the lurgy properly. Just felt like the tail end of a bad cold that was stubbornly hanging around. As such I was a bit nervy about doing any training -probably overcautious. So not much to report...

Week 6:

M-S: Nowt.

S: Fingerboard sesh (took weight off to ease back in gently) and prehab.

Week 7:

Daily prehab.

2 x climbing.

2 x max hangs.

1 x strength.

STG (End Q1):

Max Hang total 79kg

Weighted Pull-up total 83kg

Jug circuit 5-on, 3-off

Board Problem 'GTH'

Curfew (6b+)

Run average 25km/week and Edale Skyline

MTG (End Q2):

Max Hang total 84kg

Weighted Pull-up total 88kg

Jug circuit 10-on, 10-off

Board Problem 'Le Grimpeur' (Tick!)

Eliminator (V4)

Grid Iron (6c)

Black Wall (E1 5b)

Run average 35km/week and Cheshire Gritstone Trail

LTG (End Q3):

Yates' Layaway (f6B+) 

Jack the Smuggler (7a)

Black Wall Direct (E2 5c)

Cairngorm Classic Rock IAD, El Cap nose-day (880m climbing) and Welsh 3000s

2021 Goals:

35 E-points

Run 30km vert and 1000km 

 Ally Smith 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers - managed a little aero-cap this week by using what's available to me, but more importantly, ordered some nice wooden holds to do mileage on

Week 6

M – As mentioned last week: WINE.

T – Couldn’t face the prospect of -3°C garage session once sprogglet was finally settled at 10pm, so todays training was limited to: CAKE 

W – 90min board session. Warm-ups, then surprise 2nd go tick of Cozzo, 7B bench. Kept on trucking and completed 4x 7B+/C problems in short shrift (although not benchmarks). One of my strongest ever board sessions.

3hrs later, sproggle and wife were asleep. Aero-cap; 5on/3off x3; hands circuiting, feet on the floor; mild pump, plus extensor conditioning.

T – An-cap 6x6 7A+/B problems. Quite a few falls, especially on the 7B’s and crimpy yellows. Definitely tired from previous day, but happy to make use of the free 50min slot.

F – Rest.

S – More board. After warm-up, moved on to 7A+’s and managed 2 of my remaining 3 benchmarks. Also managed a 7B bench, which along with other recent ticks somehow puts me in 3rd place in UK Moonboard rankings! I think I’m starting to get the hang of this lark…

Spent 20min on Nectar of the Todds, 7C+. Managed all bar the last move, which most people do by a cut-loose, but I can’t, as I have a wall in the way. Bugger.

After sprogg went to bed, Crimpd 30% aero-cap repeaters 15x 7/3/6/1

S – Rushed an-cap triples while dinner was in the oven. 7A+ to “7C” benchmarks. Concentrating on more fingery problems. Later, forearm conditioning and external rotations.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan, when you commute through the Peak and things dry so quickly its often easy to get a short session in.  Lots of my outdoor sessions are <90mins though.  I tend to do lots of little sessions rather than longer ones.  Having said that, the aerocap I've been doing recently seems to be allowing me to have longer sessions which is nice.  This week I've had a long overdue fingers deload week and not touched my fingerboard.  Done some aerocap on the attic board and lots of hanging on tools making the most of the cold weather locally.

Mon. 4x 10mins on 10mins off in the attic.  Made it harder by doing the first 5 mins of each of the middle two sets on the 66degree without moving into the vertical section but using the massive jugs.

Tues. rest.

Wed. Prework run up onto Kinder to solo Grindsbrook Clough (Winter) (I/II)Left-hand Tributary (Winter) (II) (underrated - this is really good at the grade) and Grindsbrook Corner (II/III).  I added the last of which but its probably been done before and is only short so barely worth logging.

Thurs. Rest.

Fri. Prework visit to  Waterfall Farm Swallet where I lead Right Wall V (too many right walls to find it in the database) which was thin but with lots of good rock gear so pretty safe.  Also toproped the wall to its left (WI 6 apparently). Post work visit to Eldon Quarry where I seconded Icicle Repair Man (also known as COVID Wall) (IV 4).

Sat.  Evening session to Winnats pass after sledging with the kids all day. Soloed the grade II variation of Speedwell Ridge (III) to get up to the main crag where I lead East Berlin (III 3).  This was brilliant, 3* and the route of the winter for me (and worth IV 4 we though considering you have to torque your way up the crack), another one selected because it has loads of good rock gear.  Quick solo of Matterhorn Gully (I/II) on the way down to the car.

Sun. rest

Post edited at 10:12
 the sheep 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan, bit of a hit and miss week recovery wise. 

Monday, rest day

Tuesday, 6.5km trail run, bit of a hobble as knee problems had resulted in a tight hamstring too.

Wednesday, morning stretch session followed by a gentle 5km run round the village with the wife, eldest and youngest daughter. 

Thursday, club fast 10 mile challenge. Stupidly pushed the pace and really felt it in the hamstring and knee for on the last couple of miles.

Friday and Saturday, rest.

Sunday, went for a run with the wife as things felt better. Limped for 2.5km before giving up.

Going to be a week of stretch and cycling i feel to get the hamstring sirted!

 AlanLittle 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Winter on Kinder brings back memories. For example happily walking along in the snow when I was suddenly swallowed by a hole in the ground. A hole that turned out to be my mate's still-inhabited practice snowhole - he clearly needed a bit more practice gauging roof thickness and/or digging well away from trodden paths.

Post edited at 10:16
In reply to AlanLittle:

That sounds fun.  I was tempted to head over there but struggling morally and ethically on what should be reasonable considering the lockdown.  In the end I decided that if it was either very easy ground or with good rock gear and along one of the several routes I can take to work then it was fair game. I'd have liked to have gone to the downfall or over to Saddleworth really too but felt that this was perhaps too much.  Hey ho, its all melting now anyway.

 Ross Barker 15 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks for statting Alan, I always try to err on the side of caution with finger niggles, it's far too easy to injure them!

Bit of a gentle one this week as volume goes, but maybe that was the key to a massive project breakthrough on Saturday morning? Did a rather unusual thing by livestreaming it on Twitch, figured the crag would be quiet enough before 7am!

Last Week:

M - 3x10 pushups, 3x10 incline pushups. Box split stretches to finish.

T - Rest

W - Rigpa, was -4⁰C leaving the crag! Same highpoint, still not sussed the crux. Tried another sensible dropknee which made me feel very close indeed, but no cigar. Lots of pondering...

T - Rest

F - Rest

S - Early morning Rigpa session, -2⁰C ish. Sussed the crux, mega excited, stuck it twice. Now just need to commit to the last move which is a bit spooky. Next session, almost certainly! Lovely ambiance provided by loads of massive icicles.

S - Rest

Next Week:

Not suggesting stretches on specific days, will try and sprinkle in two sessions across the week.

M - Rigpa again. Stoked!

T - Antagonists

W - Rest

T - Max hangs

F - Antagonists

S - Density hangs

S - Rest

Goals:

Don't get injured

Suavito (on hold)

Tierdrop (on hold)

Rigpa (going rather well for something hard)

 Si dH 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Ross Barker:

> Bit of a gentle one this week as volume goes, but maybe that was the key to a massive project breakthrough on Saturday morning? Did a rather unusual thing by livestreaming it on Twitch, figured the crag would be quiet enough before 7am!

Wow. Is this the future, will Instagram soon be reserved mostly for those of middle age and above, like Facebook? (I didn't even realise you could stream something like climbing with Twitch, I had only heard of it in the context of video games.) Did it add to the pressure?

P.S. good effort!

Post edited at 15:36
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan! Yeah because every 3rd week is a deload for me, the relative workload on those weeks is ~70%, as opposed to I guess a more typical 4th/5th week deload which would be something like 50%? 

First week of the new block, which has more an emphasis on max power/strength. Good timing as the mini-Moonboard wood holds finally arrived (after a 15 week wait!) - haven't stripped the board yet/put them up though because it was so baltic in the week! 

- Density hangs 3 x 30s @70%, bar core, finger curls, & stretches

T - Rest, stretches

W - Density hangs, as on Mon. 5k in the eve - cold!

- Attempted a long project session at lunch, but was -1 with a bit of a breeze so could only manage half an hour or so. On the bright side, fingers felt strong!

 - More density hangs, then frenchies, which were surprisingly hard! Good opportunity to train lock-off strength I suppose, as it seems like a relative weakness of mine vs pure pulling strength

- Push up variations. First time doing this session, felt relatively straightforward - might bump the reps next time. 7k in the evening, which felt rather good - probably in part due to my choice of route, avoiding hard surfaces where possible. Far more pleasant than road running!

S - Weighted shoulder mobility, finger curls 

 Ally Smith 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Ross Barker:

> S - Early morning Rigpa session, -2⁰C ish. Sussed the crux, mega excited, stuck it twice. Now just need to commit to the last move which is a bit spooky. Next session, almost certainly! 

Curious about this, I couldn't find anything to pull on over the lip and even then, getting feet up to top out seems pretty heinous?

> M - Rigpa again. Stoked!

Update?

 Ross Barker 16 Feb 2021
In reply to Si dH and Ally Smith:

Si - The future is now, old man! I do stream a bit on Twitch every now and then and decided to give it a go as nobody else would be there at 6am and I have a locked-down American friend who wanted to climb vicariously through me. It worked surprisingly well but I don't think it'll be a regular thing because of how much data it consumes, plus it would be quite awkward if someone else turns up!

Ally - It's a really small hold, difficult to see from the ground because of all the ripples, and difficult to see from the top because if you lean too far you'll fall off! It's fairly well chalked up now. I did examine the top out and concluded that when I get there I will shuffle rightwards to top out as for Northumberland Wonderland (f7A), it's still green and often damp this time of year but at least it isn't directly into a bush! Downside of this is that I won't be above pads unless I can get someone else to drag one along or provide extras

Post edited at 06:31
 biscuit 16 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan, I’m not sure what week I joined, but it seems like a long time ago….

This week has been more board focussed. I do need to get out onto rock sometime soon. I chose to climb in a garage on two good weather days. I'm sure the excitement will die down soon. Most sessions haven’t felt like they were working me very hard so far but I think we’ve got better at setting it and they’re getting better quality. I’m not getting worked over like you do at a climbing wall. It feels very UK outdoorsy – every move is a tension snatch with a face like a powerlifter. It's fingers and body tension. Lots more holds added and footholds tweaked. It feels like it’s getting there, but more fettling to do.

Due to the sessions being a bit less intense over the last couple of weeks I feel ready to ramp things up, but will focus this on being more diligent with the supportive training rather then doing anything drastic with the board. 3 sessions a week on that feels like it will be more than enough.

M – board session – testing and setting 1.5 hrs

        hip flexibility

T – Training log says ‘really good stretch’

W – Nothing

T – Varied hangs – same weights as 2 weeks ago which gave me DOMS for 3 days. Fine this time.

Strength routine A

Board 1.5 hrs

F – Hip flexibiity

S – Max pinches

Strength B

S -   Power pulls

Board 1 hour

 Tyler 20 Feb 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> how did the calf hold up?

Sadly it did not, blew up after 3 slow kms on Tuesday and seemed to get worse later in the week. So with the bitter cold keeping me out of the Outhouse my two favourite forms of exercise were off the menu.

Managed a fair amount of yoga, a couple of squat sessions (10x 10 @20Kg on the minute with 20kg)

Post edited at 21:47
 Tyler 20 Feb 2021
In reply to AJM:

> I think Tyler is the only person to be posting currently who posted in week 1?

I made the mistake of starting on a high and have only matched that achievement once in the intervening 14 (ulp!) years.

> I think I’ve been fairly consistent since I started - I’ve done several years of starting the posts which helps force it - I think biscuit is probably the other earliest starter?

I've been totally inconsistent so there are many who have posted way more than me, its not really done much for my training but its been useful to look back and see what I was doing when I climbed a particular grade. It's also the only diary I keep (other than my log book).


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