UKC

I assume you'll all now be rushing to sign up for the Fit Club Watzmann East Face Expedition as soon as travel restrictions are lifted?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...     also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

And for those looking for more theoretical background, there's a useful subject index of published research studies on the Beta Angel project. Not sure how actively maintained if is though. https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory/

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_730-7322...

Once again we interrupt the Lockdown Locals Esoterica series to bring you an actual Psyche Vid - Jain Kim in the semifinal at Innsbruck in 2018. Watch her movement on the first half - everything initiated with a hip swing or from the feet, not a hint of static pulling. Absolute efficiency on the relatively easy part to save energy for when it gets hard later on. youtube.com/watch?v=we1X-qib2HM&

Fit Club fourteenth birthday next week. What are you doing fourteen of by 25th March? 

AJM - interesting thoughts on planche progression as motivation for antagonist work. How about free standing handstand? I never managed that in my yoga years, and I suspect typical climber/desk worker crappy shoulder moiblity was a major limiting factor

alexm198 - any word on the knee?

Ally Smith - how's the fourteen 7A's challenge looking?

BarneyLoosemore - 15kgs fingerboard gain over the winter is definitely a good result. With that and the board progress you certainly won't be lacking in strength when you're allowed back out. Don't forget that you'll need some time to adapt before you can bring all the new strength to bear on actual rock though.

biscuit - wise thoughts once again. I hope the start of the new structured plan brought you roaring back out of the dip.

Liam P - "a full handstand push-up" - well done! A good lockdown goal tick. What's the new moving hangs number?

mrchewy - how's the knee standing up to the Northamptionshire mountain training? Is a Swiss tripo in the offing again this summer? (Subject to travel restrictions etc)

Rebecca Ting - welcome back

Ross Barker - eagerly await the psyche vid! Hope the relatively light week did the sore pulley some good.

Si dH - "my wife's birthday followed by Mother's Day" - insisting on sticking rigorously to the training plan in those circumstances could have been a high risk strategy, probably wise not to. How's the pysche level going?

Somerset swede basher - good (?) esoterica tick on Baron Samedi. I'm struggling with how to manage assisted one arm scap shrugs too - currently experimenting with one hand on my BM 1000 jug, one on the small two finger pocket. Less quantifiable - and riskier for the assisting fingers - than a counterweight, but I get better control in the working shoulder.

the sheep - so, did you start to build mileage back up after the entirely justifiable post vaccine rest week?

Tom Green - I personally enjoyed the Grinshill beta chat. Sounds risky though - I've pulled a hamstring heel hooking, but never heard of a strained arse before. The rest of the week's activities sound solid enough though.

Tyler -  couple of good board sessions then, but there's going to have to some going uphill with rucksacks too given the ambitions for the summer.

AlanLittle - need to find some way of maintaining training psyche into Lockdown Month Six. Let's hope spring weather allows at least some weekend days out.
 

An early post this week as I'm sat marking students work and need a distraction!

Mon. Rest.

Tues. Max hangs +28kgs, 3x 10 slow scap pull ups with pauses in random places - seemed to work quite well with shoulders tired afterwards, 5x5 on the min pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Wed. Short boulder session at Burbage, did In Plain Sight (f7A) which I thought was pretty hard at the grade but I was a little tired from yesterday so maybe it was just me. 5km run after dinner to collect the car from the garage. 

Thurs. An hr soloing at Curbar on the way home from work. 9 routes, nothing harder than VS, best route was P.M.C.1 (HS 4a) which deserved all its stars.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Headed to cratcliffe and head pointed Genocide (E6 6c) I'd have said 2 stars rather than 3 but I enjoyed this more than desolation angel earlier this month, although this had a harder crux it felt safe enough which made the whole experience more lighthearted! New high point on T crack afterwards (fell with a hand on the finishing jug - what a punter!) then after I was too tired for another proper go some guys turned up and showed me some game changing beta and I think this will go quickly next time.

Sun. 25km steady road cycle with Mrs Swede. 

Cheers Alan. Enjoyed the Psych Vid. Great style and looks like she hardly broke a sweat.

I’m up to 8:30 on the Hangboard Moving Hangs and the pump is getting a little fruity. I’ll get another session in on Monday and then rest for the big day on Thursday. 

Also dusted the trainers off and ran a 5km for the first time in 6months. Quite happy to get 26:12 (my 5km PB is around 22mins from quite a few years ago). Although I can hardly walk today!

Mon -

Rest

Tue-

Hangboard Moving Hangs 7:30/3:00/2:15

Wed-

Pull-ups 7x7 (40mm edge)

Handstand push-ups 3x 1.5

Thu-

Rest

Fri -

Hangboard Moving Hangs 8:30/3:00/2:15

Sat -

5km run (26:12)

Sun -

MEGA-DOMS!

Only another 8 days before the rules relax and I’ll be able to travel to climb. Hopefully all this Hangboarding has paid off and I can start ticking some climbing goals!

14th anniversary fitclub goal - 14 quality relevant sessions by 25/03 [12/14]

Thanks Alan. I had been musing along similar lines. I was wondering whether a press handstand (and possibly eventually an L sit to handstand) might be slightly more medium term goals to work towards, since they would encourage me to learn a handstand, good for the shoulders as you say, whilst maybe also being something that might “trick” me into working on my hamstring flexibility/core compression further.

Struggled a little this week - lots of cumulative bad sleep as microAJM acquires molars and work just not quite letting up! But still getting the sessions in...

Monday - tired and achey after a few days on; rest

Tuesday - a busy day, hopefully end is in sight now for the year end work. 2030 I finished work and managed to sneak a short session in - 2 sets 15 face pulls, 1 set 8 face pulls (trying to find a sensible position to up intensity), 2 sets 10 pistol squats, 2 sets various pushups. Not a huge amount but enough to feel exercised.

Wednesday - another busy day. I managed to sneak a gap, in which I screwed the crack trainer to the fingerboard and messed around with spacers to find a good spacing. No time to use it. But another piece of work ticked off so chilled in the evening with G&T.

Thursday - too busy

Friday - pinch block. Up to same weight as last week. Hammers the thumbs so hopefully nicely specific whilst also being a thing which can combine with more fingery training fairly well.

Saturday - 5-3-5-3-5 aero session. Did the first 5 minutes jamming the crack with bare skin (good hands), the second 5 minutes jamming the crack with crack gloves (slightly tight hands), and the final 5 minutes doing a mix of foot on campus and crack jamming, about half and half. Seemed to work well - got a pretty good thumb pump on, similar to what I’d expect from the real thing, and the forearms got a little bit of a workout too. I think ultimately you could maybe combine this and do the 5s on the foot on campus and the 3s recovering in the crack, would make for a pretty solid session. Then 10k along the beach with miniAJM, wasn’t the best day, quite overcast, but nice to be out nevertheless!

Sunday - campus time. 

- Usual easing in - 1-2-3-4-3-2-1, 1-3-4, 1.5-4-5. 

- Then twice on 1-4-5 each side - 2 successes out of the 4.

- Then 1.5-2-5 twice each side - no successes, but again close a few times - e.g. overshot and hit the top of the board, etc.

- Tried 1-3-5 to finish - no joy, but closer than I might have expected - touched the hold both times, once with some reasonable hope of holding it

In the afternoon I made a weight pin - https://www.instagram.com/p/CMr8ezxjJoh/?igshid=fy86pk79ker - and did some more planche attempts.

2021 Arbitrary training goals:

- 1.5-x-5 solidly on the campus board, then 1-x-5 [1.5-3-5 and 1.5-4-5 going well; 1-4-5 also]

- L sit to Tuck Planche on the paralettes as a marker point for having worked on a weakness [need to try to video this soon again]

- 5x5 @95kg, and actually do some stuff on offsets [92kg]

- some progress on a front lever

2021 Climbing goals:

- make use of continued working from home and hopefully greater tolerance of more remote working in future to do some longer hybrid climb/work trips [3 weeks Yorkshire and Lakes in June]

- make the June-June 12 months my best period of bouldering yet (current score 6700, score to beat c7200) [June feels challenging although a rolling 12 months some point this summer feels plausible]

- climb 7c/+ again

- work on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder local things to try” ticklist (start position 0% & 13% respectively)

- nail at least one of my Portland dws projects, try mark of the beast, and do some more stuff at Swanage and in south Devon.

How restricted are you? Are you going to be stuck locally, or are you allowed to go far enough as to make FJ feasible once the season starts? (I’d have assumed that Dampfhammer (7a) and stuff must be fairly reliable early season - sunny and open crag, etc)

It’s added the Wilder Kaiser to the list of places I need to understand how to combine with a family holiday 😂

Overnight trips are out, and the Frankenjura is further than I really like to go for a day. You're right that the Weissenstein is pretty much always warm & dry, but it will be absolutely rammed on sunny weekends - not much hope of any distancing.

My day trip options are more alpine foothills / Altmühltal - which still leaves more than enough to go at, much as I do prefer the Frankenjura proper. Lockdown might even be over by the time I've ticked all four of my Zellerwand 7a/+ targets.

Yeah that hadn’t escaped my notice either! My calf is genuinely stopping me running but then I can get into Z1 without actually running but I’d feel a bit of a berk. Maybe I should persevere with the bike now it’s a bit lighter in the evenings. In the mean time it was more of the same, some yoga sessions missed, an evening at the outhouse on Thursday and the again on Saturday after spending the morning filling a skip (yet, the attic is looking vaguely habitable but a long way still to go) and sawing wood. Thursday’s session was good as I managed woods for only the second time; Saturday was poor (understandably) but even so I think I am plateauing 

Thanks Alan, definitely wise! Feeling more upbeat this week thanks, only one more week cooped up...and the weather warmed up a bit for a few hours today as well.

M: Afternoon - managed 5*5 pull-ups with bodyweight +25.5kg, about 106.5kg clothed at the moment.  I seem a bit inconsistent with these but I think this is a pb. In hindsight, maybe because I wasn't doing them the day after a board session!  Evening - hip mobility routine - which also felt good, hamstrings felt more flexible than I think they ever have, although I continue to be unable to do a 'pigeon stretch' on my right leg. Finished with 3 x 15 second L-sits. This was a good training day.

T: Lunchtime - 6 sets of 30 second scap pull-ups (8/2/8/2/8/2) on the incut edge. I also experimented doing some hangs on a 10mm edge whilst avoiding my DIP becoming extended (ie with my fingers slightly bent), with my feet on a chair. I feel this could allow me to train flexor strength a bit without loading the joint in a way it doesn't like. Possibly a bit too experimental to do regularly though?

W: rest

T: Afternoon - 6 sets of 6*7/5 repeaters with bodyweight+8kg on the incut edge, with a scap pull-up at the beginning of each 7 seconds. Evening - did a few sets each of reverse flies, flies, IYWs and hamstring curls on the TRX, a bit lacklustre but I wanted to fit it in.

F: evening - hip mobility routine and crimpd floor core session

S: rest

S: board 10 session in the morning, felt ok but not amazing. Did some long 10mm edge bent finger hangs afterwards.

Next week should be a deload week before I have a fortnight to actually do some climbing outside. Just hope it doesn't rain!  I think in the deload week I will probably just do a session of power pull-ups (ie, going for speed rather than added weight), a hip mobility session and one short board session.

Si

Sounds like it the rock quality will make the esoteric Shropshire bouldering enthusiasts feel right at home! 
Why don’t people descend the VF in preference to the long haul out through a roadless valley?

Hi all. Thanks for keeping us all motivated, Alan. As others have said, these are weird times, so it makes a big difference having top quality statting each week.

The ass muscle appears to be fixed -I'm not really sure what it was... something in my thigh/ass/hip didn't enjoy me twisting to drop a knee!

Week 11:

A good week although dropped a strength sesh and a few prehab days. Loving getting back in to the hill running.

M: Rest.

T: Max Hangs. Prehab (arms & legs).

W: Trail Run: 6.1km, flat, 5:31/km.

T: Board Sesh: limit bouldering (ticked one of my goal problems); aerocap circuits. Prehab (legs).

F: Trail Run: 6.5km, 186m vert, 6:16/km. Prehab (arms).

S: Max Hangs. Strength Sesh. Prehab (legs).

S: Weighted Hill Climb: 7.35km, 334m vert (+15kg), 9:20/km. Bouldering at Harmer's Wood -dropped in on way past, but cons were a bit ropey. Felt pretty satisfying warming up on problems that in the past needed numerous sessions to complete. Struggled to commit to the top of Yates' Layaway (f6B+) -suspect I need to come with a bunch of heckling mates once covid is out the way, so that peer pressure forces me to try harder on those upper moves! 

Week 12:

Daily prehab

2 x climbing -got to try and pull these crack laps out of the bag!

2 x max hangs

2 x strength

3 x run

14th Birthday Goal:

14 consecutive crack laps: this is going to be touch and go!

STG (End Q1):

Max Hang total 79kg (TICK, 81kg)

Weighted Pull-up total 83kg (on target at 82kg)

Jug circuit 5-on, 3-off 

Board Problem 'GTH' (TICK)

Curfew (Still on covid-hold)

Run average 25km/week and Edale Skyline (Not going to happen, given the four week lay-off, etc)

MTG (End Q2):

Max Hang total 84kg

Weighted Pull-up total 88kg

Thug circuit 1-on, 1-off

Board Problem 'Mission Improbable'

Eliminator (V4)

Grid Iron (6c)

Black Wall (E1 5b)

Edale Skyline and Cheshire Gritstone Trail

LTG (End Q3):

Yates' Layaway (f6B+) 

Jack the Smuggler (7a)

Black Wall Direct (E2 5c)

Cairngorm Classic Rock IAD, El Cap nose-day (880m climbing) and Welsh 3000s

2021 Goals:

35 E-points

Run 30km vert and 1000km

All about the headpointing these days! Have you been re-watching Hard Grit or something?!

You'll be all set for Nesscliffe next time you're down this way!

Rude! ;-p

Thanks Alan. Mine was a late post last week so when i said next week i meant this week coming. This week was un structured also.

I got two board sessions in and feel like i'm going well on the board again. 

We went to  Fairy Stepsand amongst some warm ups i got Crucifixion SS (V4) done. A couple of goes to get the stand (a very harsh 6A+ IMO) and then the sit second go. Down as V4 on here it gets F6C+ and i'd agree with that. I also did The Groove (f6C+) second go, i think. After doing it i wasn't convinced i'd done it properly, especially as i didn't think it was as great as it was supposed to be. A you tube search showed someone who is a lot better than me doing it my way so i'll take that i guess. Fairy steps is hard. Mostly vertical and techy. Hard but in a good way. I think it'll make me a good climber if i can climb well there.  

I also picked up a tick found in the back of my knee this morning. Time to start tucking your trousers into your socks people!

We had a lovely day out on the trad today checking out some new routes. I had one trad day in 2020 and it showed today. I rested on an E1 crack that was well within my capabilities. Bomber gear and big moves. I did an E2 but abbed down it first as i could see the crack for gear was full of mud (which also happened on the first route), it was very scrittly, covered in that black furry lichen stuff and the big jug hold on it appeared to be held in with mud. On closer inspection i still felt it was held in with mud and worked around it without much bother. A really nice little route that i actually feel i should have just gone for. But it was the first proper day out. Plenty more to come and to find my feet over the next few weeks.

So back to training next week. I feel ready.

We've got trips to Arco and El Chorro booked for later in the year (September/October) so fingers crossed, but i'm really looking forward to a nice mix of trad and sport in the UK over Summer.

I've only done a handful of routes at Nesscliffe. We used to go there a bit when I lived in Walsall for a year of so. I'd like to try Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans (E8 6c). Hard but relatively safe with loads of fixed gear!

Genocide looks mint, almost like a good boulder born without a landing!

I hope to see you cranking on Nesscliffe's tiny edges and pockets this summer!

Or the Leicester folks among us could see as a kind of (even) bigger version of  Charnwood Quarry

Mainly because the Ostwand routes come out on the last summit on a long ridge and you'd have to re-ascend over two other summits when you're already tired: the guidebook says it's a couple of hours longer than the normal descent. The usual descent is long but mostly just a flat walk. 

Cheers and great job on stats as always, Alan! If you're not at the Big Shropshire Chosstacular Meet 2021 then I'll be sorely disappointed!

Glad to hear, no progress on it this week, not out in the day in the week and partner didn't want to hit that crag, needs a few pads because the problems tend to cover a lot of ground.

Pulley is definitely starting to improve, crimping is possible and static loads aren't too painful, just need to maintain discipline with it.

Last Week:

M - Rest

T - Rest

W - Secret crag. Repeat of the classic 6B+, then did another 6B where I almost got the FA weeks ago but the top shelf was mossy and I couldn't match! Nowt else aside that really, got really cold and was just mooching around.

T - Rest

F - Rest

S - Pushups, can't remember exactly, 30ish?

S -  Bickerton (Kitty's Crag). Maybe pushing the limit of locality but not really that far at all, especially compared to the distances some people go. Sessioned The Ramp Up (f7B+), sussed a fabulous heel 'n' toe sequence to gain the pocket, but not enough left for the strenuous layback to the top. Hopefully next session but who bloody knows these days. Shame the crag doesn't dry quicker!

Next Week:

M - Rest

T - The Ramp Up again, hopefully!

W - Rest

T - Rest

F - Rest

S, S - Secret crag, keen to get loads more psyche vid footage and finish some remaining projects!

Goals:

Recover RH ring A2 strain

Suavito (on hold)

Tierdrop (on hold)

Rigpa

​​​​​

Hmm. Last Sunday's unexpectedly hard thrash through the snow seems to have taken its toll. Lockdown fatigue & vaccine hysteria taking their mental toll too. And dismal weather. All in all a tired & low motivation week.

STG: Weight back below 85kg. Start Couch To 5k. Get back on one of my local project/goal routes
MTG: Complete one of my local (Zellerwand) 7a projects - short, sharp power endurance. Complete Couch to 5k
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Rest day, tired. Yesterday's hillwalk was far harder than intended with the unexpected amount of fresh snow, and checking my logbook I'm well down on my normal sleep hours for the month. Had a bit of a think about short and medium term goals - see above, and many thanks everyone for the very helpful discussion last week. 
    Half an hour stretching

T: Beastmaker max hangs, scap pull-ups, l-sits
W: 
T: Max hangs
F: 
S: Repeaters
S: One hour box step-ups - wimped out of going out on the bike in the sleet
    One hour foam rolling, mobility, shoulders, wrist extensors - having been majorly skimping on the antagonist strength work for the last couple of weeks.

This coming week I will do my 14x >7As. I've made myself a list of 16 likely candidates on the Moonboard app and hope to smash them all in a session...

Thanks for all the stats effort again Alan - you're doing a get job of keeping this rabble in order during lockdown.

Week 11 

Last week I have mostly failed to complete any of the training I'd drafted out in a mini plan and have had to work around various niggles. Of those listed last week, thankfully only the knee seem to be causing longer lasting pain with back sorted and heel firmly on the mend. However, I'm now managing a R shoulder grumble instead from too much overhead hedge trimmer action...

M – 1-arm shoulder engagements; 8x 10s on / 50s off + 12.5kg (hard). Aero-cap hangs; 10x 7/3/6/1@40% (BW-20kg).  Back starting to feel better.

T – Rest. Back getting better; heel getting worse.

W – 5x5 “on-the-minute” pull-ups BW+5kg on edge as warm-up. Progressively harder 1-arm hangs, then Crimpd 1-arm hangs session @BW-10kg. 4x 7s hangs at BW+2.5kg F3SHC. 4x 7s hangs @BW+7.5kg B3. 5x10 bench @45kg.

T – 25km flat ride. 50min. Back just about sorted. Heel grumbling along but not an issue in cycling shoes.

F – Got heel in a boot without too much grumble. Managed a 7B+ benchmark. First benchie in months. Got close on another 7B+ benchmark too

S – 4hrs hedge trimming

S – 5hrs hedge trimming & digging. Feel a bit worked this morning.

Have you been on it? One really sharp hold on the crux; maybe f8a-ish? Safe though once you've clipped the first fixed gear

Cheers for this Alan.

The Northamptonshire mountainside had to take a miss sadly, the knee stayed resolutely like a balloon for a couple of days and when the swelling came down, it's appears the ACL was very tweaky. It's finally feeling strong/tight again, so going for a five mile walk or so across the fields to test it out this morning.

Training of any type this week was hard to come by - managed some hangs on Wednesday but the sore finger after wasn't worth it, it's not ready yet, but I did rig up a Crusher one harm thing on a tree and with feet firmly planted on the floor did some side pulls, using two and three fingers. I think this is far more relevant to granite mountain stuff than anything else and I'll keep this up. Feet/foot directly under the hand and body out sideways at 45 degrees. I did two sessions of this to see how it was.

I had meant to canoe yesterday but spent the weekend putting a rooflight and ceiling in the van with wiring for downlighters etc.

So a light week, needs be, but I've slept well and healed quickly I feel. So yeah, a rubbish week but progress on the healing front.

Cheers, its <VS climbing to some good and easy to place gear into a lanky Font 7A crux (maybe 6C if you are really tall), then a very onsightable topout.  If you knew you definitely had the span to do the crux it would be a safe ground up route.  I didn't know of anyone under 6ft that had done it and so at 5'8'' I wanted to check it was actually going to be physically possible for me first.  Plus its much less scary that way! 

No, I had a look at it (literally, just a look) the day I did the Tombola and thought it looked cool but that was ages ago and its been something I've been meaning to go back and try for years.  Have you done it or just been on it?

Cheers Alan, a light week volume wise. Made it out for 2 runs, 8.5km then 10km so yes I'm able to start building the distance.

The mention of Charnwood Quarry in the thread sent a shiver down my spine. I remember new routing there, effectively swimming up loose rock that was constantly falling down. Nothing we did was ever worth logging as a climb 

I had a couple of sessions on a shunt when living in Chester and into trad/headpoints; I managed all the moves but never linked it in a oner.

I did Zoolook about the same time and thought it comparable in style and difficulty.

Cheers for the info. Been meaning to get into microroutes for ages as I fancy some ropework but don't enjoy getting pumped too much, definitely on the radar now!

Thanks Alan. Knee is certainly better for having a week of rest. Did some gentle runs this weekend and no complaints so will be attempting to resume the training plan this week and keeping an eye on it/keeping up the prehab. 

Week 16:

Immensely boring week.

M Rest

T Rest

W 30 min prehab.

T 30 min prehab.

F Rest. Still some soreness, plus busy day which culminated in me deciding to sack off the scheduled 11km. 30 min prehab.

S 8.43km Z1, knee felt OK. 30 min prehab.

S 6.43km run by feel, went a bit faster than normal, I think because it was just fun to run again. Knee felt OK. 30 min prehab.

Last week's goals:

• Sort out some relevant exercises for the knee [x]
• Do those exercises every day [ish]
• Explore cross-training options? Get a stationary bike? [Hopefully no need]
• Tentative run on Saturday? [x]

Goals:

STG (This Week)

• 70.8km running 
• 1 core workout
• 7 prehab

MTG (End of June 2021)

• Finish the Zugspitz Ultratrail
• Himmel und Hölle on the Zugspitze Nordwand [Tick - 7/3/21]
• Optimist on the Schneefernerkopf Westwand
• Eiger nordwand if borders are open and partners can travel

LTG (End of 2021)

• Himalaya Expedition (or plan B)

Whoops, forgot to properly edit Thursday from my copy and paste from 730. Should read 30 min prehab only. 

Cheers Alan. And yeah, definitely something to consider! I suppose I should clarify that before the lockdown 1 induced climbing & training cold-turkey I had similar hangboard numbers as to now, which likely explains the fast gains. Leveraging what strength I have in a steep context has always been the issue though, and regular board climbing has helped a lot with this. Funnily enough, looks like I'm going to be moving somewhere near Shoreditch Park Boulder in the coming weeks, so might not be too long before I can start acclimating to moves on real 'rock' again (albeit in a bit of a bastardised context!)

M - rest, stretches

T - limit bouldering

W - weighted core. Feeling the core gains after a few months of diligence and even starting to enjoy the sessions a bit (!)

T - press up variations, then boulder triples on some 6A+/6Bs, which felt a bit too easy even with a reduced inter-set rest. Routes on the mini Moonboard are rather short for this kind of session, will try to pick routes with some lateral movement next time to get more moves in

F - rest, stretches

S - Pyramid hangs, then limit bouldering. Good little session. Surprised myself flashing a 6C+ BM on the originals - something I could never have envisioned when I first got the holds back in December! Made some good progress on a 7A project. Scapula activations and frenchies in the evening

S - Bar core, shoulder strength/mobility, IYT reverse flys